For 2 years I've been commenting this instead of just pinning it to the top - but yes! There is a part 2 in the works! I've been waiting for a move - and then for a Wisconsin winter to make use of all the time outside I could muster, and now that the weather is getting cold, I plan to spend it inside getting part 2 finished up!
The photo of the stock before it was refinished is wonderful, the skip line checkering and the reddish gloss finish. I would'nt have done anything to it.
Absolutely! It was great, but that wasn’t the project. I wanted a stock that was my own- I look at it, and I say, “yep, I put in the hours on this stock, and there’s not another one out there like it.” If that’s not something you’re going for, then I wouldn’t do what I’m doing.
@@moderndayoutdoorsman right on I'm the same way I don't care how much time or effort it takes I just like doing projects on my guns by the way you did an excellent job
I have an old military stock that someone decided to varnish some time ago. The wood to metal fit isn’t great so I think I’ll use different grades of steel wool to smooth out the stock and us soft bristle brushes and an air gun to remove any powder or flakes left over before I apply a coat or two of tung oil.
That’s what I use after i lightly heat it up with a torch. I try and remove heat just before it starts to bubble. After I get my groove going with a razor I can strip a stock in 10 minutes. Sand then if the grain is nice I will lightly burn it followed by linseed oil
I have heard this a few times- and all I have to say is, “where were you when I researched how to do this!?” 😂 there were many forums I read that said the Remington factory stock finish was not like your average rifle stock, and is an absolute pain to strip. So- I went with the citristrip, which was recommended by many.
This taught me to not redo Browning or Remington 700 stocks, or anything with checkering. Luckily my Marlins that need some love have no checkering and a much easier finish to remove, I like the metal rule idea with the flexibility! Also, Go Pokes!
Ah! That’s interesting, well- to some comments it’s not difficult at all 😂 but yes, I read multiple forums saying what a pain it was to remove before starting.
I really enjoyed the video, both content and production. Very nice. One small note: at 7:16 you said we could apply mineral “oil” when I believe you meant “spirits”. It didn’t take away from your great video. I’m looking forward to part #2
I've done a Remington with the "bowling pin finish", forget the citrus stripper. It's a frickin' fiasco and doesn't soften the finish. Airplane Stripper with Methyl Ethyl Ketone works but you'll lose half your brain cells to the solvents in it if used indoors so forget that. I simply use a utility knife blade drawn across the wood like a scraper. The finish rolls right off and the walnut is hard enough not to make ridges in when scraping. Just be careful not the let the blade "chatter" when you draw it across the stock. A light sanding and you're done. I stripped and sanded a 700 BDL in about 45 minutes. The other thing is that you can easily work around the checkering without destroying it like you did by sanding over it. Leave the finish on the checkering and wipe the rest of the stock down with Danish oil followed by a wipe on poly staying off the checkering. It makes a first class job very simple and clean. I light wipe of satin poly on the checkering dulls it enough to look fresh without looking like you filled it in with varnish.
Sounds like a good idea! I’m amazed with how many people have been thrown off by the checkering. I had always planned to do go over it with checkering tools afterwards, so I’m eager to see if I’ll regret that choice or not! Haha well find out at the end, maybe I’ll do a recap where I talk about what I would change if I did it again.
@@BoAngles It's already been done, it's on TH-cam, why I said what I said. th-cam.com/video/7NLQEmwAvo4/w-d-xo.html. Wasn't meant as an insult, chemicals are not a good thing for us, the environment, let alone just a waste of money and time.
@@patrickrheaume6984 eh! Well I’m glad it worked for you! And congrats on your video! Before working on all this, I had heard the Remington 700 stocks could be nasty- hence my video, so I’m glad it’s helped people!
@@BoAngles Not my Video, one I researched and found, would have done it the same way as you showed, so again wasn't coming from a place of disrespect, just pointing to a better less expensive and cleaner way of doing it. Whole lot less Product which s something we all need to buy less these days. Peace!!!
So, is there a reason you put citristrip on the inside of the stock where the barrel and receiver sit? It seems like an unnecessary and mildly frustrating process for a portion of stock that's not going to be seen.
so you stripped the black cap at the forend? doesn't that make a mess of it? I'm doing one now and masked that black part off but the citristrip got under the maskig and desolved some of the black part. what shouod I do?
The ebony definitely feels like a softer wood in comparison to the rest of the stock, so may require a bit more care, I’m under the impression that the stock will look more uniform if I do the entire thing at once, instead of building up to what was there before- which is why I removed everything, but I’m yet to put on the varnish. Maybe this video will be of help: th-cam.com/video/m9LZsZMmXpE/w-d-xo.html
Ah! Not a bad idea! I have a handful of these metal flexible rulers from design school, so I didn't think anything of it! But - could be a good idea for other people! :)
Love what you did here! I am looking to refinish my .270 BDL and have a question. I noticed you removed the black piece at the bottom of the grip. Can you please tell me how you did that? I haven't been able to find anything on the web for instruction on how to remove it. Thank you!
@@johnradcliffe450 thanks, John! I want to say it must have been screwed on, because I don’t remember it being a big deal when I removed it. If it is a piece of ebony or something instead, or some other piece of a different material, I’m sure you could wrap it with tape to make sure it doesn’t get gummed up
@@moderndayoutdoorsman Thank you for your prompt reply. Mine certainly isn't screwed on, so I'll probably just cover it real well. Can't want to see part II of your project. What did you us to finish the stock with?
@@johnradcliffe450 haven’t gotten to it yet to be honest! Moved and meant to do it this winter after being snowed in, but our winter was so mild, everything just went on like normal
Thank you! My other TH-cam channel is growing really fast at the moment, so I kind of put this project on hold! Though - as soon as I stop buying fishing gear and buy some lights for the next part, I'll get back to work! :)
@@chrisgreenaway6696 eh, I already have another BDL stock, and I wanted to alter it. So- personal preference if you like what other people make you and don’t want to add a personal touch, I understand
@@chrisgreenaway6696 why would I buy a Boyd’s stock when I can buy a stock on eBay for $50 and customize it myself? My end goal is to create an old country German hunting rifle stock- why does everyone keep saying Boyd’s, their stocks are hideous
THIS IS, imho/every & other wood worker, THE WORST THING YOU CAN DO TO A GUN STOCK! The citrus crap does do a great job of removing the finish. DEALING WITH THE REMOVAL/CLEANUP IS A NIGHTMARE!!! tip: 1: Use a metal card scraper, re-burnish as needed 2: 120->220G flexible made by 3m (no endorsement, it just works best) 3: I use Watco DANISH oil x3 coats (no endorsement, it just works best) >(overall, about an hour, including BS'ing and whatever. APPLY-->15 minutes-ish then wipe, 15 mins-ish then wipe, BS'ing, oh yeah, and then 15 mins and wipe 4: use toilet bowl wax (yuk), or modeling wax melted (much better), or pure wax (I don't remember where I got it, not Gulf Wax, maybe pure bees wax-, whatever---testing it on another stock) *****In my experience with test pieces, the orange stuff tends to open the grains way more unless properly removed (AT least 3 hours of watching grass grow waiting time frame, and if not completely removed, as a beginner or novice, is a huge process to wash/remove/dry/oops missed a spot or 30/and start over, or wait, or ruin your grandfather's sears and roebuck family heirloom.
Thanks for your feedback Patrick! Seems like we were pretty similar up to the Citrus varnish remover - which I used because I had read many people recommend it on various forums for the Remington 700 stocks, because they have a very thick varnish evidently… Glad you found what works for you, though!
You been a lot faster to skip the stripper and just scape it, it's faster and cleaner, I'm doing a module 700 stock like the one your doing, it took me 2 hrs to scale all the old finish off mine , without any stripper
Well good deal! Had never done it before, so in my research, it had mentioned the gloss on the classic Remington 700 BDL stocks was a bit like dealing with the fires of Hell in comparison to other stocks, and the citristrip was recommended on various forums! But more than one way to skin a cat I suppose!
No progress yet! It’s hard to work on something when you have to film it every step of the way. I’ll be moving soon and I hope I have more space (and cleaner space) to work on stuff like this.
Yeah, started with wanting to improve the quality of the video - then I moved, then I figured I may as well wait to do these indoor projects til I get snowed in by the Wisconsin winter ❄️
Haven't worked on it yet, honestly. Meant to go grab some better lights to do the rest of the work and never got to it. Just have a lot of irons in the fire at the moment.
Ugly fish!? Now I'm worried about your choice in women!! 😝 Lol, just playin - I moved 3 months ago, so it's been an adventure getting settled into the new house - but I will say! Workshop is just about finished up, have my wood working and checkering vises coming in later this week - I'll get some camera gear and lighting stuff I'm still missing and hope to get back to filming later this July!
Hey Patric, I’ve already gone over this with another person- I plan on redefining the checkering on the stock after refinishing. However- if you have another way to remove varnish from checkered areas, feel free to share.
the commentary reminds me of the obnoxious minecraft videos my kids watch. dude calm tf down and get to the point. it doesnt need to be entertaining, just informative.
You didn’t restore this stock, you ruined it. It was a professionally done schnabel forend high gloss but I rifle stock. You’ve reduced it to pretty kindling. Congratulations.
“Lion the witch and the wardrobe?! I think not. Sounds like it’s just a bunch of kids going to a professors house! Ha! What a dumb book, congratulations C. S. Lewis for writing a book about kids being relocated!”
Ha! I wish that were the case! I bought this used wood stock for $100, to replace my plastic one, and when I’m done with the carvings, it will be worth more than any stock on stocky stocks 😉 it’s all about putting effort into what you have! Personalizing it so it means more to you! That’s worth the mess.
For 2 years I've been commenting this instead of just pinning it to the top - but yes! There is a part 2 in the works! I've been waiting for a move - and then for a Wisconsin winter to make use of all the time outside I could muster, and now that the weather is getting cold, I plan to spend it inside getting part 2 finished up!
...
…. Rip bro 😢
lol
@@Lambert-hr7smdid he really pass away?
@@HappyFeetBoxing I hope not!
Great block of instruction and great sense of humor. Keep up the good work.
Thanks! Hoping to have part 2 worked out this winter!
The photo of the stock before it was refinished is wonderful, the skip line checkering and the reddish gloss finish. I would'nt have done anything to it.
Absolutely! It was great, but that wasn’t the project. I wanted a stock that was my own- I look at it, and I say, “yep, I put in the hours on this stock, and there’s not another one out there like it.” If that’s not something you’re going for, then I wouldn’t do what I’m doing.
@@moderndayoutdoorsman right on I'm the same way I don't care how much time or effort it takes I just like doing projects on my guns by the way you did an excellent job
Let’s see video #2! This is great!
Very entertaining! I enjoy your sense of humor. 😂
Looks like a lot of work. Glad I have a son-in-law who knows how to do this if I decide to refinish any guns.
I have an old military stock that someone decided to varnish some time ago. The wood to metal fit isn’t great so I think I’ll use different grades of steel wool to smooth out the stock and us soft bristle brushes and an air gun to remove any powder or flakes left over before I apply a coat or two of tung oil.
I'm working on mine right now Remington 700 270. I'm going to leave my natural wood and leave the cross hatching in it dark. 🤘
That’s awesome, Jim! I’ll be eager to hear how it turns out!
@@moderndayoutdoorsman like you said some of the 700s varnish and stain are a 🤬 to get off ! I'm just using sandpaper and elbow grease.
I have a model 700 Remington .270 and it's a real nice gun
thanks for sharing. FYI, the ruler is acting as a card scraper. They come if a variety of shapes and sizes and might be a bit better than chisels.
Carving done right is great. No fish scale and no basket weave.
I usually find something to criticize, you got it right 🎉
1:05 Another great possibility would be a razor scraper, (When used correctly) will easily scrape off and do little to no damage!
very true!
That's the way westhunt of Western Hunter classics does it he scrapes It Off
That’s what I use after i lightly heat it up with a torch. I try and remove heat just before it starts to bubble. After I get my groove going with a razor I can strip a stock in 10 minutes. Sand then if the grain is nice I will lightly burn it followed by linseed oil
Hilarious, well instructed and very informative.
Forget the stripper. A cabinet scraper will remove ANY finish in less than an hour without any fuss
I have heard this a few times- and all I have to say is, “where were you when I researched how to do this!?” 😂 there were many forums I read that said the Remington factory stock finish was not like your average rifle stock, and is an absolute pain to strip. So- I went with the citristrip, which was recommended by many.
This taught me to not redo Browning or Remington 700 stocks, or anything with checkering. Luckily my Marlins that need some love have no checkering and a much easier finish to remove, I like the metal rule idea with the flexibility!
Also, Go Pokes!
A small soft wire brush known in metal work as a toothbrush makes it super easy
Thanks bubba! Gonna use these tricks, hope i can get citristrip in canada
Remington uses DuPont bowling pin finish, that's why it's so durable and such a pain in the ass to strip.
Ah! That’s interesting, well- to some comments it’s not difficult at all 😂 but yes, I read multiple forums saying what a pain it was to remove before starting.
Nice work! You did your way and it worked!
I really enjoyed the video, both content and production. Very nice. One small note: at 7:16 you said we could apply mineral “oil” when I believe you meant “spirits”. It didn’t take away from your great video. I’m looking forward to part #2
Thanks for clarifying! :)
He's too busy trying to be funny he got confused with mineral spirit and mineral oil,loss of concentration.
Does it help if the gift card has money loaded on it? I think they're heavier and won't break as easy as an empty card.
Ah! Haha yes, I think that would work wonders in comparison!
yes the more the better xD
I've done a Remington with the "bowling pin finish", forget the citrus stripper. It's a frickin' fiasco and doesn't soften the finish. Airplane Stripper with Methyl Ethyl Ketone works but you'll lose half your brain cells to the solvents in it if used indoors so forget that. I simply use a utility knife blade drawn across the wood like a scraper. The finish rolls right off and the walnut is hard enough not to make ridges in when scraping. Just be careful not the let the blade "chatter" when you draw it across the stock. A light sanding and you're done. I stripped and sanded a 700 BDL in about 45 minutes. The other thing is that you can easily work around the checkering without destroying it like you did by sanding over it. Leave the finish on the checkering and wipe the rest of the stock down with Danish oil followed by a wipe on poly staying off the checkering. It makes a first class job very simple and clean. I light wipe of satin poly on the checkering dulls it enough to look fresh without looking like you filled it in with varnish.
Sounds like a good idea! I’m amazed with how many people have been thrown off by the checkering. I had always planned to do go over it with checkering tools afterwards, so I’m eager to see if I’ll regret that choice or not! Haha well find out at the end, maybe I’ll do a recap where I talk about what I would change if I did it again.
Purchase cabinet scrapers very little mess and strip the complete rifle in less than 2 hrs use a small amount of stripper for the checkering
The "Algorithm" works!😮 Ive uploaded a few videos on "Reshaping" a rifle stock and have been getting more suggestions on the topic!😮
Dude love the edits your going to go places keep it up
watching from philippines
All junk you don't need. card stock metal scraper, once the finish is removed some light sanding. finish to your liking. no mess, no chemicals.
@@BoAngles It's already been done, it's on TH-cam, why I said what I said. th-cam.com/video/7NLQEmwAvo4/w-d-xo.html. Wasn't meant as an insult, chemicals are not a good thing for us, the environment, let alone just a waste of money and time.
@@patrickrheaume6984 eh! Well I’m glad it worked for you! And congrats on your video! Before working on all this, I had heard the Remington 700 stocks could be nasty- hence my video, so I’m glad it’s helped people!
@@BoAngles Not my Video, one I researched and found, would have done it the same way as you showed, so again wasn't coming from a place of disrespect, just pointing to a better less expensive and cleaner way of doing it. Whole lot less Product which s something we all need to buy less these days. Peace!!!
Can we see more on this. This video is super helpful!
So, is there a reason you put citristrip on the inside of the stock where the barrel and receiver sit? It seems like an unnecessary and mildly frustrating process for a portion of stock that's not going to be seen.
Good point, Bruce- I honestly just wanted to start from square one on the entirety of the stock. If you feel it’s unnecessary - by all means, skip it!
so you stripped the black cap at the forend? doesn't that make a mess of it? I'm doing one now and masked that black part off but the citristrip got under the maskig and desolved some of the black part. what shouod I do?
The ebony definitely feels like a softer wood in comparison to the rest of the stock, so may require a bit more care, I’m under the impression that the stock will look more uniform if I do the entire thing at once, instead of building up to what was there before- which is why I removed everything, but I’m yet to put on the varnish. Maybe this video will be of help: th-cam.com/video/m9LZsZMmXpE/w-d-xo.html
@@moderndayoutdoorsman I was under the impression the black tip on the 700's where made out of plastic same with the pistol grip cap.
Try using the back of a hack saw for scraping. It'll save a lot of wear and tear on your flex scale!
Ah! Not a bad idea! I have a handful of these metal flexible rulers from design school, so I didn't think anything of it! But - could be a good idea for other people! :)
Love what you did here! I am looking to refinish my .270 BDL and have a question. I noticed you removed the black piece at the bottom of the grip. Can you please tell me how you did that? I haven't been able to find anything on the web for instruction on how to remove it. Thank you!
@@johnradcliffe450 thanks, John! I want to say it must have been screwed on, because I don’t remember it being a big deal when I removed it. If it is a piece of ebony or something instead, or some other piece of a different material, I’m sure you could wrap it with tape to make sure it doesn’t get gummed up
@@moderndayoutdoorsman Thank you for your prompt reply. Mine certainly isn't screwed on, so I'll probably just cover it real well. Can't want to see part II of your project. What did you us to finish the stock with?
@@johnradcliffe450 haven’t gotten to it yet to be honest! Moved and meant to do it this winter after being snowed in, but our winter was so mild, everything just went on like normal
I just safely burn the rags.
For sure! If you’ve got a spot for that, not a bad idea!
This is top shelf TH-cam content! When will part 2 be available?
Thank you! My other TH-cam channel is growing really fast at the moment, so I kind of put this project on hold! Though - as soon as I stop buying fishing gear and buy some lights for the next part, I'll get back to work! :)
How about this guy?! He seems like he has a bright future! 😜
A guy that strips a BDL stock has something wrong with him
@@chrisgreenaway6696 eh, I already have another BDL stock, and I wanted to alter it. So- personal preference if you like what other people make you and don’t want to add a personal touch, I understand
@@BoAngles just saying that it’s a beautiful stock if you want coustomize buy a Boyd’s stock or keep the original furniture and buy a replacement
@@chrisgreenaway6696 why would I buy a Boyd’s stock when I can buy a stock on eBay for $50 and customize it myself? My end goal is to create an old country German hunting rifle stock- why does everyone keep saying Boyd’s, their stocks are hideous
@@BoAngles you do you pal
THIS IS, imho/every & other wood worker, THE WORST THING YOU CAN DO TO A GUN STOCK!
The citrus crap does do a great job of removing the finish.
DEALING WITH THE REMOVAL/CLEANUP IS A NIGHTMARE!!!
tip:
1: Use a metal card scraper, re-burnish as needed
2: 120->220G flexible made by 3m (no endorsement, it just works best)
3: I use Watco DANISH oil x3 coats (no endorsement, it just works best)
>(overall, about an hour, including BS'ing and whatever.
APPLY-->15 minutes-ish then wipe, 15 mins-ish then wipe, BS'ing, oh yeah, and then 15 mins and wipe
4: use toilet bowl wax (yuk), or modeling wax melted (much better), or pure wax (I don't remember where I got it, not Gulf Wax, maybe pure bees wax-, whatever---testing it on another stock)
*****In my experience with test pieces, the orange stuff tends to open the grains way more unless properly removed (AT least 3 hours of watching grass grow waiting time frame, and if not completely removed, as a beginner or novice, is a huge process to wash/remove/dry/oops missed a spot or 30/and start over, or wait, or ruin your grandfather's sears and roebuck family heirloom.
Thanks for your feedback Patrick! Seems like we were pretty similar up to the Citrus varnish remover - which I used because I had read many people recommend it on various forums for the Remington 700 stocks, because they have a very thick varnish evidently… Glad you found what works for you, though!
Further clean the stock with mineral oil; mineral spirits?
Hi
You been a lot faster to skip the stripper and just scape it, it's faster and cleaner, I'm doing a module 700 stock like the one your doing, it took me 2 hrs to scale all the old finish off mine , without any stripper
Well good deal! Had never done it before, so in my research, it had mentioned the gloss on the classic Remington 700 BDL stocks was a bit like dealing with the fires of Hell in comparison to other stocks, and the citristrip was recommended on various forums! But more than one way to skin a cat I suppose!
I have a pos stoeger stock I want to redo should I just sand the factory finish straight off? If I do just get rid of the checkering or what
I was really hoping for Part 2... Don't see it on your page though...
Yep, saving it for this winter
Don't know why he just left the receiver and barrel channel with epoxy. It's more waterproof than oil finishes.
I’m waiting for the part 2 for long time 💔 ,, and how to finish it again
Great video. Did you end up not doing Part 2?
I plan to! Just got busy
Have you made progress on your refinishing project?
No progress yet! It’s hard to work on something when you have to film it every step of the way. I’ll be moving soon and I hope I have more space (and cleaner space) to work on stuff like this.
Part 2?
10 months and still no update!?
When is part 2 coming out?
I’m in the process of moving, so may be a bit longer, I’ve got a lot of “irons in the fire,” as my father in law would say 😉
Did this ever get done?
No follow up video?? You tease.
Yeah, started with wanting to improve the quality of the video - then I moved, then I figured I may as well wait to do these indoor projects til I get snowed in by the Wisconsin winter ❄️
@@moderndayoutdoorsman well I was emotionally invested. So now you have an obligation to finish it.
I part 2?
So did it get finished
Haven't worked on it yet, honestly. Meant to go grab some better lights to do the rest of the work and never got to it. Just have a lot of irons in the fire at the moment.
Part #2?
Working on it, I’d like to get some better lights for the video, my garage light is ok, but I’d like something a tad nicer haha 😂
What happend to part 2?
My standards rose out of no where and I refused to do a part 2 in a dirty garage and poor lighting 😂
@@moderndayoutdoorsman thats a shame man 😉
@@munchh2007 I’m moving soon and I’m hoping I’ll have a cleaner work area- plus I’ll have more salmon and trout fishing videos 😉
what happened to the rest of the gunstock refinishing videos, all I see are videos of you catching ugly fish. 😁😁
Ugly fish!? Now I'm worried about your choice in women!! 😝 Lol, just playin - I moved 3 months ago, so it's been an adventure getting settled into the new house - but I will say! Workshop is just about finished up, have my wood working and checkering vises coming in later this week - I'll get some camera gear and lighting stuff I'm still missing and hope to get back to filming later this July!
what the heck dude, you sanded the checking. Way to ruin a stock.
Hey Patric, I’ve already gone over this with another person- I plan on redefining the checkering on the stock after refinishing.
However- if you have another way to remove varnish from checkered areas, feel free to share.
the commentary reminds me of the obnoxious minecraft videos my kids watch. dude calm tf down and get to the point. it doesnt need to be entertaining, just informative.
Thanks for your feedback, James! You must also go to restaurants and tel the chefs how to make the food! I’d recommend finding another video 👍
@@moderndayoutdoorsman you know their just a little sour because the didn’t realize they needed the wooden stock for this project….
@@joezze-bear that’s the most important part! 😁
You didn’t restore this stock, you ruined it. It was a professionally done schnabel forend high gloss but I rifle stock. You’ve reduced it to pretty kindling. Congratulations.
Do you often read the first chapter of books and deduce the rest of the book is trash? Just trying to understand how your brain functions.
“Lion the witch and the wardrobe?! I think not. Sounds like it’s just a bunch of kids going to a professors house! Ha! What a dumb book, congratulations C. S. Lewis for writing a book about kids being relocated!”
This is a Straight up mess ! U get beautiful stocks from stocky stocks for cheap
Ha! I wish that were the case! I bought this used wood stock for $100, to replace my plastic one, and when I’m done with the carvings, it will be worth more than any stock on stocky stocks 😉 it’s all about putting effort into what you have! Personalizing it so it means more to you! That’s worth the mess.
@@moderndayoutdoorsman right on
Thanks for tip #7 lol