I'll agree with that. Not often you see people who have a genuine interest in a craft after decades of toil. I say that as a Qualified chippy of some 40yrs nearly.
Top upload by Andy giving his adviceon starter kits and how he thinks it should be done no cutting weakening the wall ! The weather struck pointing is amazing workmanship by Andy always good helpful tips when watching cheers for the upload 🍻
Our gaffer used to make us cut the cavity out and tooth everything in as if the extension was a continuation of the original house, which is the only proper way of doing it. If you built a house you wouldn't build a flank straight through then just stick the offshot on it. It takes time but if is the correct way.
Exactly ,but generally toothing isnt allowed anymore because of differential movement especially if clay is involved but yes it was the norm in the 70s and 80s 👍
Hi Andy, as a Time served Carpenter & Joiner the straight edge with the magnet for the 2 knives for pointing is genius............ Something relaxing/Therapeutic about watching a quality tradesman creating something that will still be around long after we have moved on. You deserve far more subscriptions matey. All the best Adrian.
Andy, With reference to that `wall starter` detail. We always used to cut out the wall, and expose the cavity and tooth - in the new work to the existing. ( I appreciate you know this - you probably done a few...!!! ) Then along comes the issue of different sizing, metric to imperial bricks, and different rates of ground movement & settlement between old and new work - so wall - starter systems come along to overcome that particular issue. This idea of cutting a vertical slot to a depth of 50mm (and in some cases, 100mm) and inserting a vertical D.P.C seems a tad overkill. I suspect this has come about from areas of the country with a high driving rain index (coastal areas as you mentioned) but is there really that much moisture penetrating the cavity walling - and migrating across the juncture between old and new...?? I had a similar discussion recently about opening up the cavity in a similar scenario to achieve continuity of the cavity insulation (between old and new) and to prevent cold bridging...! When I queried this - I never got a satisfactory reply. Ideas, concepts and details evolve and change I suppose - trouble is we have been around too long and tend to get cynical about some of the new thinking on these matters. Tell Damon, to wear a mask when using a "spinner" as Silicosis is a slow and horrid death. The pointing looks "Pukka" mate... P-U-B...?
I was always thought if you are building of an existing house/ building it should be a movement joint so instead of a wall starter to use Lshaped tie with plastic sleeve. Then the joint is masticed . I've also just stuck up a wall starter and built away with know one saying a thing as its what they wanted. What I've noticed in the last say 10 years is a massive array of changes and so many different ways to do a simple thing. Great work by the way i love your content.
@@DylanGSXR Depends what's on the drawing I suppose and local BC. 90% of the time we do it with a wall starter but I agree it should be a mastic joint but builders just can't be bothered so we do it like this and no one ever questions it.
Ive just built a small single story extension and first thing i asked was cutting in a vertical damp as i too dont agree with it and never have...I tell them you are effectively weakening the strongest part of the house (The corner) just to slot a bit of damp in ..Anyway wouldnt have it so i just cut around 50mm just enough to slot it in and gob it up..Took pictures and thats it....Were up in west yorkshire and every extension ive done the inspectors pretty much insist on it...
I see the dpc behind the wall starters on the corner at 1:09 ...I was told to cut a channel in the cavity and put dpc in the cut rather than behind the starter kit but there you'd have to cut into both sides of a corner which isn't good practice .
Properly done , the times I’ve seen people do that freehand without a Frenchman and rail 🙄 when I got my kit out they wondered what I was at 😂 people just haven’t got the level of skill anymore 🙄
@@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 thing is Andy ,when I was at college which is 22 years ago. They taught you to do it freehand but because I worked with my dad I’d already done that kind of thing with him, so I kinda knew most of the pointing finishes but everyone passed no matter what, which is one of the problems o think 🤔
Lovely Andy, I am having Friday off too, just got to pick up some cash, that's not work. It was worth the video just to see the Mark ll derby board. I was going to have a day off but now I have got to build a derby with a magnet on it, genius. I love the straight Frenchman. I was only ever shown the hooked type, I still have the one I made as a kid. I always thought the hook teared at the pointing. Now I will make a straight one. Is that your idea or was it passed down via and old boy. One more thing, consistent 10mm perps, what a novel idea in this modern slashing world. Just a joy for this grumpy old trowel to see.
@@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 Thanks for sharing Andy. Maybe when you do the tuck pointing video you can show us. Looking forward to that, a friend of mine has some tuck pointing to do and he has a guy coming to do it. I will have a day off and go and have a look. Nearly pub time so I will let you go!
Hello andy mate that struck pointing looks awesome mate love that ❤💯👌👊 someone may have alsked already but what ratio are you useing for that pointing mate ? And do you think this kind of pointing would work with a pointing gun ? Kind regards rob 👊
@@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 ahh right i see. Say If you didnt have silver sand and still wanted a wight joint and added hydrated lime to it. Would it become to stong a mix? So you'd have a 5:1:1 ? "Just to get the couler i mean" Do you know a good substitute mixes 🤔 Sorry mate im being specific 🙈🤣
Hey Andy recently been asked to lap a gas membrane on an extension I’m building onto the house DPM taped and sealed…I phoned the architect and asked how I was supposed to do that without undermining the house he said do it in hit and miss sections all the way along the back of the build…found out the original house doesn’t even have a gas membrane…seems they don’t care about weakening buildings anymore as long as there is not a chance of radon gas in your new extension 🤷🏼♂️
@bigmobsy2104 Were you building in Aberdeen or Cornwall...? That Architect certainly did not do his "due-diligence" checks on that property before asking you to do that. The last radon barrier I did we turned it up the existing wall face and finished it with a termination bar detail. All a pointless detail really unless your building new. That detail your Architect gave you is ridiculous, lots of unnecessary work - and the cost to the client...F.F.S
@@martin2466 was a job in Scotland and to be fair there was a few pits in the area at one time but the house not having one and then asking for one in the extension to me was completely bewildering….in theory the architects design is relying on the original house having DPM/radon barrier hanging out enough to get it taped onto which as you know isn’t always going to be the case
@@bigmobsy2104 Thank you for the Clarification, I guessed that you may have been working in Scotland. It just seems to get harder and more complicated to build anything these days, especially with all the `Net Zero` & "Future Homes" legislation about to come into force....! I appreciate your reply. Keep grinding mate - and stay safe. 😁👍👍
I suppose most tradesmen could recreate that sort of pointing over a small area, but to keep the precision and quality on every joint is no easy task. Looks pin point everywhere.
No, I've had problems with crazing using Hydrated Lime to cement mixes for pointing, a good enhanced cement like Mastercrete works well for me. Using silver sand and white cement I add a small amount of SBR.
Great video, I’ve done a bit of weather struck but didn’t come out as well as this. Hadn’t thought of using silver sand though. Would you say 6:1:1 would work as a pointing mix with silver sand ? Also makes all the difference having nice tight joints to do it on. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍
I don't use Hydrated Lime in cement mixes as I have had problems with hairline cracking with it, 5 and1 is best with an enhanced cement like Mastercrete, you only need Silver sand if you want a white mix.
Tell you what Andy! You’re rather good at that bricklaying stuff! You should make a career out of it and even make some videos and stick them on the ol’ TH-cam!! 😂
I'm on a site just started showhouse had a little disagreement about what minimum a 3 quarter should be the showhome is timber frame and I'm restricted to what I can do I have put 150mm against the window never had a problem before what's your opinion?
hi andy, i see you are wearing the copper bracelet, they really do work" a master job as normal, young brickies take note, its not just crash bang wallop
Ive used NHL 3.5, 3 and one mix with building sand for 25 years with no problems or comebacks though this could be altered in extremely exposed areas or walls with very soft bricks.Thats for lime mortar for sand and cement 5 and 1 with an enhanced cement, some use hydrated lime in the mix but ive always had problems with cracking using it never a problem with Mastercrete or similar.
@@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 sound got an extremely old old outbuilding 1800’s . Just need the correct shade to match. That result for ol Mahoney brickwork of 187 out of 440 is tight as fuck.
![ฮักเทื่อสุดท้าย - บอย ศิริชัย [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-1PoPoQ-B-k/mqdefault.jpg)
I think the straight edge set up with the magnets is genius I’ve been a carpenter for over 40 years really impressed
There’s no other bricklayer guy on TH-cam with such a wide array of knowledge, a master craftsman.
👍
Absolutely agree with the comment. Keeping it real👍👍
Agreed
I'll agree with that. Not often you see people who have a genuine interest in a craft after decades of toil. I say that as a Qualified chippy of some 40yrs nearly.
Rob Songer is worth looking up. Different sort of work but a proper trowel
Top upload by Andy giving his adviceon starter kits and how he thinks it should be done no cutting weakening the wall ! The weather struck pointing is amazing workmanship by Andy always good helpful tips when watching cheers for the upload 🍻
👍
Our gaffer used to make us cut the cavity out and tooth everything in as if the extension was a continuation of the original house, which is the only proper way of doing it. If you built a house you wouldn't build a flank straight through then just stick the offshot on it. It takes time but if is the correct way.
Exactly ,but generally toothing isnt allowed anymore because of differential movement especially if clay is involved but yes it was the norm in the 70s and 80s 👍
Huge respect Andy, a proper bricklayer. Forgot more than a lot know 👏
I think you're right, I can't remember
Lovely job mate done well with them LBC bricks pointing spot on 😊
👍
Them LBC’s with white weather pointing look smart. Nicely done Andy, great workmanship.
Hi Andy, as a Time served Carpenter & Joiner the straight edge with the magnet for the 2 knives for pointing is genius............ Something relaxing/Therapeutic about watching a quality tradesman creating something that will still be around long after we have moved on. You deserve far more subscriptions matey. All the best Adrian.
Top work andy its nice to see a proper tradesman at work
Quality craftsmanship Andy 👍🔥
Lovely job that Andy very effective struck joint 👍💯
Thanks Justin 👍
Really smart and accurate finish Andy ,the brickwork is top drawer , and I’ve been in building for 40 odd years ,
Looks like a good gang
Very nice work Andy brickwork and pointing 👍
For ur skill an knowledge people should pay a savage bonus .good vid .an great work love xx thnxs
Friday off 4 day week brilliant, top work andy
Andy,
With reference to that `wall starter` detail.
We always used to cut out the wall, and expose the cavity and tooth - in the new work to the existing. ( I appreciate you know this - you probably done a few...!!! )
Then along comes the issue of different sizing, metric to imperial bricks, and different rates of ground movement & settlement between old and new work - so wall - starter systems come along to overcome that particular issue.
This idea of cutting a vertical slot to a depth of 50mm (and in some cases, 100mm) and inserting a vertical D.P.C seems a tad overkill. I suspect this has come about from areas of the country with a high driving rain index (coastal areas as you mentioned) but is there really that much moisture penetrating the cavity walling - and migrating across the juncture between old and new...??
I had a similar discussion recently about opening up the cavity in a similar scenario to achieve continuity of the cavity insulation (between old and new) and to prevent cold bridging...! When I queried this - I never got a satisfactory reply.
Ideas, concepts and details evolve and change I suppose - trouble is we have been around too long and tend to get cynical about some of the new thinking on these matters.
Tell Damon, to wear a mask when using a "spinner" as Silicosis is a slow and horrid death.
The pointing looks "Pukka" mate...
P-U-B...?
pointing looks fantastic!
I was always thought if you are building of an existing house/ building it should be a movement joint so instead of a wall starter to use Lshaped tie with plastic sleeve. Then the joint is masticed .
I've also just stuck up a wall starter and built away with know one saying a thing as its what they wanted.
What I've noticed in the last say 10 years is a massive array of changes and so many different ways to do a simple thing.
Great work by the way i love your content.
@@DylanGSXR Depends what's on the drawing I suppose and local BC. 90% of the time we do it with a wall starter but I agree it should be a mastic joint but builders just can't be bothered so we do it like this and no one ever questions it.
Absolute quality....thanks Andy...
Ive just built a small single story extension and first thing i asked was cutting in a vertical damp as i too dont agree with it and never have...I tell them you are effectively weakening the strongest part of the house (The corner) just to slot a bit of damp in ..Anyway wouldnt have it so i just cut around 50mm just enough to slot it in and gob it up..Took pictures and thats it....Were up in west yorkshire and every extension ive done the inspectors pretty much insist on it...
Brickwork looks good with your pointing Andy 🧙♂️👍have a fun Friday
Love the videos Andy great watching someone who knows what they’re on about. Keep em coming.
👍👍
Nice magnet setup on that rule Andy.
You probably forgot than I Know Andy thanks for sharing
The brickwork looked perfect even before it was pointed!
Class work mate 👍
Looks brilliant andy
Top work as always
Lovely job Andy
I see the dpc behind the wall starters on the corner at 1:09 ...I was told to cut a channel in the cavity and put dpc in the cut rather than behind the starter kit but there you'd have to cut into both sides of a corner which isn't good practice .
Properly done , the times I’ve seen people do that freehand without a Frenchman and rail 🙄 when I got my kit out they wondered what I was at 😂 people just haven’t got the level of skill anymore 🙄
Dont suppose they teach it at college these days.
@@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 thing is Andy ,when I was at college which is 22 years ago. They taught you to do it freehand but because I worked with my dad I’d already done that kind of thing with him, so I kinda knew most of the pointing finishes but everyone passed no matter what, which is one of the problems o think 🤔
Great idea with the magnets
Lovely bit pointing Andy... it takes a bit of patients i say.. but sure once it looks great thats the main thing
Lovely Andy, I am having Friday off too, just got to pick up some cash, that's not work.
It was worth the video just to see the Mark ll derby board. I was going to have a day off but now I have got to build a derby with a magnet on it, genius.
I love the straight Frenchman. I was only ever shown the hooked type, I still have the one I made as a kid.
I always thought the hook teared at the pointing. Now I will make a straight one. Is that your idea or was it passed down via and old boy.
One more thing, consistent 10mm perps, what a novel idea in this modern slashing world. Just a joy for this grumpy old trowel to see.
It's not straight but has a tiny hook on it, a lot of Tuck pointers prefer it like this.
@@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 Thanks for sharing Andy. Maybe when you do the tuck pointing video you can show us.
Looking forward to that, a friend of mine has some tuck pointing to do and he has a guy coming to do it. I will have a day off and go and have a look. Nearly pub time so I will let you go!
Nice mate lovely and neat I must say
Nice one 👍👍
Hello andy mate that struck pointing looks awesome mate love that ❤💯👌👊
someone may have alsked already but what ratio are you useing for that pointing mate ? And do you think this kind of pointing would work with a pointing gun ? Kind regards rob 👊
I use 5 and 1 with an enhanced cement like Mastercrete, I wouldn't use a pointing gun on this type of pointing.
@@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 ahh right i see. Say If you didnt have silver sand and still wanted a wight joint and added hydrated lime to it. Would it become to stong a mix? So you'd have a 5:1:1 ? "Just to get the couler i mean"
Do you know a good substitute mixes 🤔
Sorry mate im being specific 🙈🤣
@@robbertdeboer7715 You wont get a white mortar without using silver sand, some of the Lime companies do a prmixed.
@@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 ahh right got ya.👌 thanks again andy really appriciat the reply mate. 💯Kind regards rob.👊👊👊👊
Hey Andy recently been asked to lap a gas membrane on an extension I’m building onto the house DPM taped and sealed…I phoned the architect and asked how I was supposed to do that without undermining the house he said do it in hit and miss sections all the way along the back of the build…found out the original house doesn’t even have a gas membrane…seems they don’t care about weakening buildings anymore as long as there is not a chance of radon gas in your new extension 🤷🏼♂️
Only ever done it once in an area with no Radon, divy Archcitect.Lot of extra work for nothing.
I guess they will have to keep the door closed to the extension 🤦♂
@bigmobsy2104
Were you building in Aberdeen or Cornwall...?
That Architect certainly did not do his "due-diligence" checks on that property before asking you to do that.
The last radon barrier I did we turned it up the existing wall face and finished it with a termination bar detail. All a pointless detail really unless your building new.
That detail your Architect gave you is ridiculous, lots of unnecessary work - and the cost to the client...F.F.S
@@martin2466 was a job in Scotland and to be fair there was a few pits in the area at one time but the house not having one and then asking for one in the extension to me was completely bewildering….in theory the architects design is relying on the original house having DPM/radon barrier hanging out enough to get it taped onto which as you know isn’t always going to be the case
@@bigmobsy2104 Thank you for the Clarification, I guessed that you may have been working in Scotland.
It just seems to get harder and more complicated to build anything these days, especially with all the `Net Zero` & "Future Homes" legislation about to come into force....!
I appreciate your reply.
Keep grinding mate - and stay safe.
😁👍👍
That super tidy that pointing Andy. Clients lucky to have you there.
👍
I suppose most tradesmen could recreate that sort of pointing over a small area, but to keep the precision and quality on every joint is no easy task.
Looks pin point everywhere.
Do you add lime for that pointing mix? Thanks , those flettons do wonders for your hands.
No, I've had problems with crazing using Hydrated Lime to cement mixes for pointing, a good enhanced cement like Mastercrete works well for me. Using silver sand and white cement I add a small amount of SBR.
Andy you will know but should cement be added to lime as seems it would defeat the object
@@Joe74854 No, only Hydrated lime can be added to cement, Hydraulic, hot limes and puttys work on there own or a Pozzolan can be added.
Great video, I’ve done a bit of weather struck but didn’t come out as well as this. Hadn’t thought of using silver sand though. Would you say 6:1:1 would work as a pointing mix with silver sand ?
Also makes all the difference having nice tight joints to do it on.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍
I don't use Hydrated Lime in cement mixes as I have had problems with hairline cracking with it, 5 and1 is best with an enhanced cement like Mastercrete, you only need Silver sand if you want a white mix.
Ok thankyou 👍
She’s out 😂 got to do your own dinner 😂😂 disgraceful
It's that bloody film Shirley Valentine. It all went down hill after that
Tell you what Andy! You’re rather good at that bricklaying stuff! You should make a career out of it and even make some videos and stick them on the ol’ TH-cam!! 😂
I thought the Frenchman was only used in weather struck and cut Andy, just a pointing trowel for weather struck ?
Looks neat 👌
That is Weatherstruck and cut
👍
I'm on a site just started showhouse had a little disagreement about what minimum a 3 quarter should be the showhome is timber frame and I'm restricted to what I can do I have put 150mm against the window never had a problem before what's your opinion?
150mm is minimum, unbelievable that nowadays they still cant design a timber frame to fit brickwork.
What you got for lunch. Cut white muck snots. Forgot your fork but brought in 2 bone handled French men and a new magnet stick
Darth Vader doing some pointing.
Lovely pointing Andy. Looks smart. How did the original brickies get the white colour
White cement and silver sand.
@@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 Thanks Andy. Is white cement available ?
@@Doug.... Yes mate
Interested in the rule and the 2 frenchmen are they different is that a magnet on the rule 🤔
Yes there has been a lot of questions about it, i will explain all in another vid next week👍
@@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 thanks Andy 👍
Does your missus know what you do with her best butter knives? 😉
Hi Andy what are the knife you use for the pointing
An old Sheffield stainless steel dinner knife shaped and bent over at the top, its called a Frenchman.Ther is a vid on my channel on how to make one.
Cheers Andy i had just found your vid on the frenchman pointing tool very handy and I like your straight edge with the magnet fairplay
@@simonmartin5048 I find one with a small nib best for the bottom and a bigger one for trimming the top.
its a cold bridge
hi andy, i see you are wearing the copper bracelet, they really do work" a master job as normal, young brickies take note, its not just crash bang wallop
👍
What bricks you using there Andy Lbc tudors ?
Heathers
Cheers mate
Andy which fail safe mix would you recommend for struck / weather struck ?!?!
Ive used NHL 3.5, 3 and one mix with building sand for 25 years with no problems or comebacks though this could be altered in extremely exposed areas or walls with very soft bricks.Thats for lime mortar for sand and cement 5 and 1 with an enhanced cement, some use hydrated lime in the mix but ive always had problems with cracking using it never a problem with Mastercrete or similar.
@@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 sound got an extremely old old outbuilding 1800’s . Just need the correct shade to match. That result for ol Mahoney brickwork of 187 out of 440 is tight as fuck.
@@fabiandegussion5134 Rough as fuk you mean 😁, i always try and get the right colour by using different sands and dyes as a last resort.
@@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 🤣❤️
Use your mortar gun Andy.
Dont work with Weather struck
Thought it would be OK to just fill the joints and then point it weather struck ,even so you are doing a great job
@@davidsanders2806 I might give it a go on the next job, worth a try.