ACC Setups - SIMPLIFIED - For Beginners - Assetto Corsa Competizione
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ส.ค. 2022
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Simracing is difficult. Learning how to drive fast takes time, dedication and persistence. Assetto Corsa Competizione is one of the best simulations with highly sensitive aerodynamics that want to be respected. Telemetry, such as motec helps with analyzing car behavior and finding major issues in the car setup or driving style. Special sim racing hardware also helps with becoming better, but certainly is not the solution to your problems. Load cell pedals offer better feel. Stronger but most importantly more detailed force feedback of e.g. direct drive wheels offer more immersive sensations. Though I know and I've seen throughout the years, people with entry level hardware perform on top level. - เกม
Super vudeo. The main reason, for me, is how you explain it so well without simply telling us the numbers to use. You teach in a way that gets us thinking for us. Thanks, Big Time. 🙏🏼
This is a great video Nils, we need the top drivers simplifying the complexity to get more drivers engaged with the game. Especially where there are certain quirks to the game like camber
the games should include it themselves really but yes, engagement with the game is a huge point. With lower end wheel equipment & lack of tune knowledge, the game stinks most times, very difficult to get a good race or learn anything.
Thank you for taking the time making this video! Instant motivation to start playing around with set-ups!
Really nice video! I love how you can notice that it’s hard for you too hold back all the information you have in order to keep it simple.
Brilliant video finally giving a really clear and concise explanation of basic setup parameters. Many thanks 🙏
Thank you Nils, this video is fantastic. I've been wanted to start developing my own setups more, this was a great help.
Amazing video!!! Really made the setups alot clearer... Thank-you.. just got my first sim setup and love this game.. keep up the great videos mate.
Superb video! I've only just recently got my head around Motec and Damper settings, thanks to your video, I now feel I have a 'usable' knowledge of car setups now. Thanks.
Great video,It's great to see a very knowledgeable sim racer taking the time to help out beginners.Thank you Nils👍
Nice… good to hear a simple effective explanation of all the setup options. Will be tinkering around at some point later! 😀 Thanks
Nice work Nils. Setup is very much part of the game and it is very important for drivers to understand how to modify the setup to suit their current capabilities, their current driving style and the particular track they are on. If anyone wants to be competitive, they can't ignore this aspect of the game. Thanks for simplifying a very key component - OS / US. 👍
Fantastic watch and very interesting as I’m new to acc find car setting up very tricky! Thanks 🙏
Great tutorial really useful tips and information. Your breakdown gives a much better understanding of how you setting effect the overseer. Brilliant work!!!
Thanks for taking your time to put these up! Really helpful 👍🍺
You just created a solid base for further set up guides as well as you can always refer to this one. :) Finally someone creates a short, proper tutorial for setting up in ACC.
Such a useful video, very simple, clear and comprehensive thats what the beginners need
Thank you Nils for making this video. Very well done, keep up the amazing work n take care man.
this is nice intro. I'm familiar with most of these basics, but this paints a nice overall picture that helps solidify my understanding. keep up the good work.
Legend. Super helpful for newcomers to ACC 🤘
Thank you for taking time to do this video. For a person that has trouble tuning set up, this is really helpfull. May be one day I could be as good as you are 😜😜👍👍👍👍
thanks for the awesome video as always. changed my wrong idea in car turning.
look forward for more indepth video on differences between one and the other. And when to adjust setting at front or the back.
This is really superb, thanks Nils. The only thing I would add is: When you have no what a particular setting does, change it A LOT! Then you get an immediate idea what's happening, then you can fine tune. When you're starting out you're not going to be consistent enough to 'feel' the difference of one click of bumpstop for example.
This is game changing thank you. I agree as I have experimented with setups . This just confirms it.
Same, although I still cant grasp how preload differential works. For me it's almost easier to understand how big the observable universe is than what preload exactly does to the car.
Yo Nils! Great to watch even if you're not new. Thanks!
Danke fűr die Top Informationen.
Wie immer sehr lehrreich und super umgesetzt
thank you very much ! hope you do more like these setup videos , really helpful ! maybe in a genre like how to tweak aggr setup with good speed and with what is good for each kind of track and car :D
Love the videos! I actually enjoy acc again
Nils, thank you man!!! WOW gotta re-watch and take notes! Just like in school, there's lots of teachers but only a few can help you understand...VERY USEFUL!!
How much is live coaching?
its 80€. theres a longer description of the process on my discord server!
Thank you brother I really needed this
Thank you so much for this, very helpful!
@SimracingPopometer … thanks heaps for this video … much appreciated 👍
Danke dir, Nils. Echt gutes Video 👍🏼
great video as im often overwhelmed with information in setup guides
Right?! Simplified hell yeah!!
Hi Nils, vielen Dank für die Erklärungen. Das Video ist super hilfreich! Ich bin einer, der stundenlang Setups baut, um das Auto verstehen zu lernen. Meiner Meinung nach, ist die Balance zwischen Über- und Untersteuern, mit der wichtigste Parameter, für ein stabiles und vertrauenswürdiges Auto.
Very nice video using us and os as a based point to talk about the behavior of the car considering the parameters. Guys, tip: start with agressive setup adjust tyre pression, tc, abs and brake bias, and then identify if your car is more us or os. Then, go to anti-roll bar and start to change to fix it. You gonna see, just changing anti rol bar the behavior gonna change and you gonna gain around 50% or even more (depending the car) that tou gonna gain adjusting all the parameters. This is basically what i do when I start to create my Ferrari Setups
Thank you Boss !
amazing video ty so much!
Thank youuuu!
Thank you so much pal
Great video, what setting would you recommend most to make a predictable oversteery setup but stable on the brakes? I have issues with braking in the Porsche but love the oversteery turn in.
Thank you
Danke für das Video Nils
Is it the car or is it me? The merry go round begins. New driver. No math skills. I'll see you on the track.
You changed my life forever.
I can't believe how much better is car handling now bro thank you so much I thought I knew how to do this I was wrong xDD Have a great weekend boss!
Happy to help
Thank You
Emailed you! Thank you!
Insightful, thank you .... Next, steering angle and why more steering angle could be allot faster
the greatest! ty
Hi Nils, ich finde das Video Super - soweit ich es in Englisch verstehen konnte. Ich gehöre zum älteren Semester über 60 und mein Englisch ist nur noch rudimentär. Da ich weiß, das es noch viele andere meines Alters gibt, würde ich mich sehr freuen, wenn es vielleicht für solch wichtige Themen eine Deutsche Version geben würde.
Aber unabhängig davon - Danke für die Arbeit die Du dir machst!!!!!
For the Camber i feel it different as you said. I nver go Front over 3.5 and not under 2.5. For the Rear i not go over 3.3 or under 2.5.
My general best setup as example Monza is 3.0 Front and 2.7 Rear. The Car at thhis point is the most stable with a tiny bit "us" at the hard corners like T2 and T3 & 4 but bearly noticable.
For the Most i turn down antirollbar until i like it and use softer springs.
This is amazing a lot of gems in this video. Now to try and figure how to tie it altogether. Lol.
hey nils, great explanation.
Would be great to see where to go next. Maybe an A-Z setup guide would be interesting showing us what you do first, what you look for, then where you go next, etc. What this video did was show that EVERY setting has an impact on OS/US, which will get confusing for many once they start playing with inputs, causing the car to be setup outside its "ideal" window.
Im sure theres a general rule, i.e. Aero, Mechanical, Tires, Dampers or whatever, and in those theres also a hierarchy which would be great to learn :)
Cheers
the truth is just that the process is very messy and it only depends on my first impression during driving where to start. then theres a lot of back and forth, cycling through everything. It's not a clear cut process and following a process only takes you so far. It's not the same for every car and track either. It's difficult to break it down into a pattern. The way a good driver is able to identify issues, because he/she already drives correctly, can differ vastly from a not so good driver. Sensing the wrong problem means solving the wrong problem, means not solving anything at all. Some things sure are more impactful than others, though.
This is actually the best explanation video I've ever watched on car setups. Thanks Nils, I definitely have a better understanding on what my setups are doing.
Thank You GigaNils
Nils, thank you for this. I struggle with my understanding of the caster physics on the m4 because I see that many set ups from various quick youtubers vary quite a bit for this value. I'll get out of the way that fundamentally, I understand what caster does. After playing with higher values ranging from around 8.1 to 10 on the high side (max neg camber in a scenarios), I don't find that higher values give me additional front grip. Initial turn in maybe feels a bit quicker at higher values but then I find that the front end feels like it washes out more at the higher values at mid to late corner. Personally, I find that best caster at max camber is somewhere around 7.9 - 8.3 at majority of tracks. So I wonder if I'm leaving front end on the table with these values because if I am, I'm not feeling it. Looking for your insight here if possible into caster as you said higher is generally better. Part of me speculates that maybe some quick guys like this value higher because of the weight it adds to the FF when turning and not because of the true physics that the game is imparting on the wheels; given that there is a variety of wheel bases that fast drivers run. Sorry for the long winded question, hope it makes sense.
Your feeling is correct! Think of it this way, simplified. With zero caster the coilover strut is vertical when viewed from the side. That means when you turn the steering wheel the camber of the front wheels stay the same in relation to the car floor (not the track). This means when the car rolls (car floor not level to track anymore) your camber will actually _reduce_ with g-force (car roll) and the tyre stops maximizing the grip potential of the inside of the tyre. Insert some caster to balance that out so that the camber remains roughly the same when turning. Also, with 0 caster you will get no feedback from the front axle to the steering wheel as the force vector from the road on the tyre is exactly underneath the rotational center (strut).
If you go too high on caster you will get a camber gain already at small steering angles which gives that higher initial bite (and more feedback in the steering wheel since the force vector is now behind the rotational center), but as you keep turning the camber actually becomes too much, which decreases the contact patch and you loose grip.
To conclude: adjusting camber is a compromise between the amount of feedback you want/initial bite and a more linear/consistent grip level at all steering angles. On a track with lots of slow/medium speed corners (= higher steering angles) more caster can be detrimental to performance, but on tracks with long, sweeping corners it may be beneficial. It's always a compromise! If you lose a lot of time in a couple of slow corners due to understeer, decreasing caster a couple of clicks can shift around your grip level to those areas. But that is only one way. In slow corners you cold also benefit from more rake (as downforce is a non factor), which moves the mechanical balance forward (but compensate with bumpstop stiffness/range) so that you don't get an oversteery car in the fast corners.
Edit: sorry, just realized that maybe I explained to you what you already know. Anyway, maybe someone else benefits from it.
Thank you Nils for your adequate explaining content on details tools and techniques to improve and understand the essentials of car behavior, setups and driving techniques.
But, why the car will have a tendency to oversteer on full tank? I assume that the lower the rear ride height (on full tank case) the more aero tendency to understeer, and the opposite the less fuel in the tank - the higher rear ride height hence the more oversteer tendency in terms of aero
it depends where the tank is. it's another 80kg in the car in a certain position trying to keep going straight.
on and front engine car the track is further back and will change the weight distribution.
the ride height does not change with fuel unless you change ride height specifically in the setup!
it will definitely change throughout a stint though of course as the tank empties.
aero wise it depends on the car. some gain rear downforce with a higher rear (bmw M4, Aston, Bentley...) some don't!
5:53
This definetly aged well
Love your videos. They have really helped with my setups but, could you do a video explaining how you change your normal setup into a qualifying setup??
hey! dont have one, generally you'll have to change the balance a bit. like if the tank is in the back, then an empty tank might make the rear a bit unwilling to turn, but also lack traction on exit.
so a softer spring paired with more rake could be an option for front engined cars.
similarly for a rear engined car the front without fuel in the tank could result in the front being too pointy, and you want to reduce its capacity a bit. so a stiffer spring there and less rake for example - but this is very broadly speaking
2:50 interesting about front toe-out vs toe-in. I have seen other videos stating that toe-out increases over steer and responsiveness. Whereas toe-in increases stability and less oversteer. I'm confused now. Great video BTW
toe on the front and toe on the rear do quite different things.
front:
toe out will lead to the inside wheel helping a bit more during cornering, but initial response is less
toe in will lead to the inside wheel working against the outside wheel during cornering, but initial response is more aggressive.
its all happening in a very brief moment during turn in, we are only talking about the first 0.2° of the front tire being turned in. when the ouside tire has toe in, its already trying to go for the corner as soon as any load is shifted onto it.
with toe out on the front the inside tire will already be pointing to the corner while the outside tire is still going straight. so you get a "slow" turn in response from the inside tire until the outside tire also aims for the corner.
my perception... that is
@@SimracingPopometer Thanks for the clarification. Your explanation makes sense. With the initial turn-in .2 degress, the weight shifts to the outside tire hence more bite to that tire. So the toe-in has more advantage initially ....
Just a heads up. You may your front tyre toe out and toe in effects mixed up. Chris Haynes would suggest that toe out on the fronts increase car responsiveness.
which is wrong unfortunately. just set front toe out to -0.01 and to -0.4 for a test. closer to zero will show quicker initial response.
I would like to see advanced ACC setup guide.
Fantastic video as always Nils, we need member track guides for COTA and Indianapolis, specially COTA, that track is a nightmare 🤦🏻♂
that's true, sorry!
Simplifiyng, great video, great explanation, and I think really really helpful.
Thank you so much
🤟
Hi there, once I heard you say in a live stream "never mess up with the car rake" . Could you elaborate.
Hi Nils am i correct that the effect of roll stiffness (either through ARB or spring rate) is different at different speeds?
Low speed is more about mechanical grip so harder roll stiffness means more weight transfer and less grip at that end. But high speed is more aero grip, so harder roll stiffness keeps a more stable aero platform (under the car) and gives more grip?
So you need to find what works best overall
Thank you for sharing this knowledge for free - respect for that.
There is one omitting thing - from where aliens takes glitches like max toe + max camber - some hidden discord for the best simracers or just spying each other? ;)
they just test until they find stuff like this out of pure frustration over not improving with any other setting, and suddenly stuff like this works
I do wonder if Coach Dave Delta plan is worth considering over learning your own?.. It seems to be a good starting point for what car, track and weather the setup should lean towards..
id say its a matter of time you have at your disposal. dialing in setups just takes a while, not to mention learning how it should work, how it actually works and then staying on top of things as patches change the game.
most people will have more to gain in their driving still. setups can give you more confidence if you come across proper ones. even the quality of my own setups varies, no matter how much you try, sometimes it just doesnt want to click. so for me the best shot is at combining setup and data :)
get the setup of a good driver, and then compare your lap with theirs and you can be certain to know the issue isnt within the setup anymore. for that we made popometer.io - either get individual packs, or get the CDA delta plan + their data on our platform with the addon, cancel any time blabla. also free to try on popometer's end
Hello i have a question. When i drive on monza and touch the white bumps part of the road i lose speed so i try to keep the car on the flat surface. What do i have to do to not lose time on the white part of the road? Like the first turn there is the white part in the ride side of the straight at the end of the turn.
Wie immer super erklärt 👍 (auch wenn mein Englisch nach über 40 Jahren seit der Schule etwas zu wünschen übrig lässt und die dt. Untertitel manchmal recht sinnfrei übersetzt werden - eine deutschsprachige Fassung wäre natürlich prima - insbes. wenn es an das Thema Dämpfer (ggf. mit Motec) geht).
Hi, was there a follow up made to this going into more detail on dampers?
no. let's see if the new patch has working dampers to even think about a video
How do you understand which setting to tune arbs or wheel rates or ranges or dampers or ride heights in terms of fixing the under or oversteer behavior?? Thz
depends on the situation in which I like to see a change and the amount of impact I need.
roughly, for faster corners, in order of magnitude: ride height, bump stops, springs, ARBs, alignment, dampers.
though, if it's in slower corners ride height won't matter as much compared to springs and ARBs
Hi Nils, great video. Just a comment, you say in the video that toe in in the front makes the car more easy to get into the turn. Maybe I misunderstood what you say but as far as I know it is the opposite way, I mean it is more toe out in the front that makes the car more agile and easy to turn, not the other way.
you will have to separate the phases for that. maximum toe out will delay your initial turn in, simply because the outside wheel will still be pointing away from the corner for longer until it crosses the center axis. once in the corner, the inside wheel will have more turning angle than the outside wheel and potentially aid your cornering.
with toe in on the front your outside tire will always already steer towards the corner, so once you start turning you get an immediate response, however during the corner the inside wheel will work against your outside wheel a bit.
i think this is where misconception comes from: different phases with different behaviors
@@SimracingPopometer Hi your explanations makes sense to me, but my point was you stated in the video that to get better turning is better toe in in the front, as a general guide, so according your explanation of phases you assume the first phase is the important one. I think it is the other way around, the angle of toe is very small, so in real life and in the sim the only effect you will really notice and needs to be considered is the second one according your explanation, so to simplify: toe out will make the car get into the turn faster, not how you stated in the video, maybe there is two phases as you say, but then the only one noticeable is the second one. This is how I experienced making tests in the sim, also is the indication in any other sim set-up step by step guide I know, also is how it is considered in real life racing set-ups as far as I know, even if you remember some time ago in F1 Mercedes introduced the DAS system that was doing that, allowing the driver to keep toe 0 in the straight and creating toe out before the turns to make the car more agile in turns. Making it simple: In real life and in the sim, toe out in the fronts will make the car go into the corner faster, more agile, not as stated in the video. Here is a good "physic" explanation why toe out, NOT toe in, makes better turning: www.northstarmotorsports.com/tech.tips3/#:~:text=It%20is%20the%20difference%20in,front%2C%20that%27s%20toe%2Din.
Lastly here you have the very detail explanation why toe out makes better turn in from Aris himself, the guy who developed ACC physics!! (notice the key role of the ackerman effect in all this): th-cam.com/video/bj7HSmB2hyE/w-d-xo.html
This is the guy who coded the physics of the game, by the way great videos from Aris to understand physics in ACC or any other sim.
For the fuel, surely if the rear ride height lowers 3mm compared to 1mm in the front when fuel load increases, it will cause understeer not oversteer right?
Yes, understeer which is good on cold tires, but to be honest I don't feel much difference of balance during 25 minutes race, wearing out tires make much bigger impact on handling.
@@aczech12 but he said that more fuel = oversteer. Using my logic and experience this doesn’t seem true. Did he misspeak or am I missing something?
@@aczech12 7:11
yes. but: the ride height does not lower if you add fuel in the garage (I used the test slider there in the aero section which is different from the actual fuel load in the strategy tab), the game will take the ride height as you set it up. only if you start driving with 5l and then added 100l in a pit stop the rear would actually be lower. what this test load in the aero tab tells you though is, that from Q to race fuel you should lower the rear by roughly that amount, as by the end of the race your rear will sit 3mm higher. hope that makes it clearer.
with unchanged rear ride height but added fuel, you will get more oversteer. even when correcting ride height (and with that center of gravity on the rear) you will still feel the fuel load.
@@SimracingPopometer makes perfect sense thank you
Is there any where online where I can get suggested setups for each car and track
i really am trying to put the link under every video :D check popometer.io !
What the splitter does? some cars have that setting available to change, but I never know how it affects
creates more front downforce. all cars have a splitter, but only a few can adjust it
Most stuff I've read says negative toe (aka toe out) in the front helps turn in, not hinder it. I think you're saying the opposite -- can you clarify? Thanks for the great video.
depends what they mean with help :)
with negative front toe, the outside front tire will not steer into the corner for a bit longer, hence the steering appears less responsive. thats why everyone uses max negative toe on the front to cope with the lose rear ends from negative toe there.
just do the test for yourself. go to 0.0 toe front and make a tiny movement in the steering wheel - the car will respond much faster and veer into that direction. sadly there's a lot of false information on the internet.
later in the turn the inside tire will steer a bit more than the outside one and might help with overall perceived grip, but we're talking 0.2° so... not much effect expected in that area
similar question - wouldn't a full tank = more weight on the rear and more downforce on the rear (due to lower ride height) = understeer, instead of oversteer?
yes. but: the ride height does not lower if you add fuel in the garage (I used the test slider there in the aero section which is different from the actual fuel load in the strategy tab), the game will take the ride height as you set it up. only if you start driving with 5l and then added 100l in a pit stop the rear would actually be lower. what this test load in the aero tab tells you though is, that from Q to race fuel you should lower the rear by roughly that amount, as by the end of the race your rear will sit 3mm higher. hope that makes it clearer.
with unchanged rear ride height but added fuel, you will get more oversteer. even when correcting ride height (and with that center of gravity on the rear) you will still feel the fuel load.
Also, the added weight of the fuel acts as a pendulum to push the rear around (Oversteer). Hold a 1lb hammer with the head down and the handle up, swing it lightly back and forth. You can control it but you will feel the weight. Now try a 5lb hammer. The inertia starts to become overpowering and tends to keep the hammer moving in the same direction.
During the race, the variation in the amount of fuel affects the weight distribution between the front and rear. In your GT3 car, in fact, the addition of weight (due to refueling) behind the center of gravity will increase oversteer due to increased centrifugal forces; conversely, the reduction in weight (due to fuel consumption) behind the center of gravity will increase oversteer. The Porsche behaves exactly the opposite of all the other GT3s (and therefore to what was described above) as it has the tank positioned in front of the cockpit. Keep in mind that the variation in the amount of fuel during the race also affects the height from the ground but to a small extent compared to the effects due to centrifugal forces.
Great video but just one question. Why does popometer logo looks like but cheeks?
because it is. Popometer is a German word for the butt (=Popo) as an instrument to judge what the car is doing
Does the spliter do the opposite of the wing [os,us]
yes, with a much smaller impact usually
Can you please make a tutorial for tire pressure setup for shifting temps and rain. And how much clicks is for different temps? I have setups that's perfect for like 29c but as soon its change to etc 34c I'm clueless what to change for?! Is it like 2 clicks of psi or what?!
0.1 change in psi for every change in air temp. So -0.5 for temps going from 29c to 34c ( for the change in air temp). Jardier has good a video on it.
Just that he's slightly off. its more like 8 clicks per 10C difference. since 1.8 its a bit more messy and is a bit more track dependent additionally
What temp should i follow? If i see 24c 27c is it the air temp of 27c then?
@@snippidippi Air! and air is always the colder value
That's already too complicated for me...I'll stick with Mario Kart 9 I think...😅
The real driving simulator
I still don't get how camber on front and rear with negative value mean OS for front and US for back . Isn't suppose to be OS if they have negative value camber for both front and rear? Please i need someone to explain me.
the more negative the camber, the more grip basically. so if you add more grip to the front, it gets oversteery, if you add more grip to the rear it gets understeery.
for a test: maximum negative on the front and the lowest negative value on the rear (i think you cant go positive). you will know instantly ;)
@@SimracingPopometer Thanks for the fast reply on this old video :). I already test it before, but the idea is i didn't get it why. With your explanation i think i get it.
thanks for a video, gotta say tho ACC made a terrible jobs with explanations of what everything does which is present in most other games...
thats just a more immersive experience :D
you buy the car and then good luck :))
This has so many basic gaps in real world concepts. You didn't even mention IMO for the alignment settings. Maybe not for meme-meta setup ACC but there is absolutely such a thing as too much negative camber in other sims or IRL.
the video really is there to break it down without any physical concepts. that was the purpose - hence the title "SIMPLIFIED" not "MORE COMPLICATED!".
the cambers we have in ACC are the limits pirelli tells the teams to obey. IMO temps in ACC are hard to get exaggerated on the inside, the cars roll too much. even with max camber you just about have enough
ride heights and bump settings are something that you can never work out properly in a Sim. everything is just an opinion.
All this knowlege is useless without understanding how much OS/US you really need. Nobody describes how to figure out if car is stable/unstable because of settings or because of driver input. Nobody describes how to approach quick setup of a car for the track. It is a tonn of settings that affect OS/US each in isolation, but which one should I change? How to figure out that car need more OS/US in slow speed turn? Medium speed turn? High speed turn? Which settings to touch if you need basic setup for the track, and which to leave for precise one? It will be much more helpful video if cover those topics but nobody talk about it. So for person who wants just race and do not spend hours and hours the only option is 'trust into built in setup' or to buy one and trust in it.
There's a reason why it says "simplified". and there's a reason why there's no video around what you're asking: because it's a fuck ton of work and everything suddenly is connected and then nobody would understand it anymore.
there is no "here's your perfect easy quick setup". it's sim racing not need for speed.
I'll take your hints though and will see if I can come up with something