This chart (live CO2 and O2 levels - click Weekly) is what I have been monitoring. I am trying to find the right balance at about 2-3%. I will use this to help me find the optimal size. Remember they go into ULMR (Utra-low metabolic rate at low oxygen so they can survive and deal with it). The risk is if we get a rapid warm-up of 10 to 20C. That would really mess with the internal dynamics. app.datacake.de/dashboard/d/4b10cbc3-9735-4b6c-b0ac-eb796d22b703
Great bit and pieces of information, a lot of beekeepers don't understand the Thermal Process that the bees and we deal with. So many just follow what they see on YT with out understanding what they are actually dealing with. Thanks for sharing, Blessed Days...
I will need to narrow the entrance down a bit more... There is always some infiltration through the seems and the styrofoam sheets I use on top that creates a pseudo top vent. Looks like the bees are currently around 10,000ppm co2 (~0.25 ach air change per hour). I will reduce it by another 2". It floors me that scientist also don't apply building science and knowledge to their wintering experiments and are so stuck on the "Bee don't heat the hive". Not realizing that it is just a heat conservation equation and adapted honeybee behaviour. The cluster behaviour is a survival mechanism, the bees would rather have moderate CO2, be at rest in a warmer environment.
Given your heat conductivity ratings.... even though plastic is a more conductive material, how does that play out in the case of something like an Anel hive box that is polyurethane internal but plastic external? Does the polyurethane negate the loss due to plastic covering?
Just checked "Polyurethane (PU) foam has a thermal conductivity of about 0.02-0.03 W/m·K" is equivalent to polystyrene but the hard plastic version is 0.4 so it could be problematic for me here. This is the reason I leave the screen bottom board partially open. At these temperatures the top vent would also ice up. It is just something to be aware of :)
I have langthworth poly hives they don’t have any plastic and there pretty fair price I can get the hive for 150 each that’s top bottom and box I use wood supers for Summer honey
Yes you are correct thanks for the correction. Mental typo. I do run my deeps with 8 or 9 frames usually. So they are typically above average. I also never pull honey from my brood boxes unless its honeydew.
Interesting. I did not realize that plastic was more conductive of heat than wood. I have been wondering if mouse guards are worth the trouble. I am not sure if they are needed for keeping mice out of healthy colonies, or if they are just good for keeping mice from making a mess in dead outs.
better than metal, you need an edge protector against hive tools. A couple of manufactures who have flat edges can get away with a thin flat piece, those with overlapping edges needs something a bit tougher. Less worried about mid boxes but it would be nice if they stopped 1/2 way vs full length, entrance area has room for improvement.
This chart (live CO2 and O2 levels - click Weekly) is what I have been monitoring. I am trying to find the right balance at about 2-3%. I will use this to help me find the optimal size. Remember they go into ULMR (Utra-low metabolic rate at low oxygen so they can survive and deal with it). The risk is if we get a rapid warm-up of 10 to 20C. That would really mess with the internal dynamics. app.datacake.de/dashboard/d/4b10cbc3-9735-4b6c-b0ac-eb796d22b703
Great bit and pieces of information, a lot of beekeepers don't understand the Thermal Process that the bees and we deal with. So many just follow what they see on YT with out understanding what they are actually dealing with. Thanks for sharing, Blessed Days...
I will need to narrow the entrance down a bit more... There is always some infiltration through the seems and the styrofoam sheets I use on top that creates a pseudo top vent. Looks like the bees are currently around 10,000ppm co2 (~0.25 ach air change per hour). I will reduce it by another 2". It floors me that scientist also don't apply building science and knowledge to their wintering experiments and are so stuck on the "Bee don't heat the hive". Not realizing that it is just a heat conservation equation and adapted honeybee behaviour. The cluster behaviour is a survival mechanism, the bees would rather have moderate CO2, be at rest in a warmer environment.
So you're the one with the drones scaring everyone lol just kidding buddy, stay warm, merry Christmas to you and your family
I am doing a little thing I only have a entrance one inch no top vent well insulated and they seem to be doing great
Given your heat conductivity ratings.... even though plastic is a more conductive material, how does that play out in the case of something like an Anel hive box that is polyurethane internal but plastic external? Does the polyurethane negate the loss due to plastic covering?
Just checked "Polyurethane (PU) foam has a thermal conductivity of about 0.02-0.03 W/m·K" is equivalent to polystyrene but the hard plastic version is 0.4 so it could be problematic for me here. This is the reason I leave the screen bottom board partially open. At these temperatures the top vent would also ice up. It is just something to be aware of :)
😂
I have langthworth poly hives they don’t have any plastic and there pretty fair price I can get the hive for 150 each that’s top bottom and box I use wood supers for Summer honey
Hey I have a question can you hit the bees with OA vapour when it’s in the -10 ?
I don't recommend it. Bees are already stressed out. I would do it in October and early spring
@ thank you I did hit them in October a few times I will wait until spring
A deep frame is about 5lbs of honey max. 50 lbs production from a ten frame super is typical
Yes you are correct thanks for the correction. Mental typo. I do run my deeps with 8 or 9 frames usually. So they are typically above average. I also never pull honey from my brood boxes unless its honeydew.
Interesting. I did not realize that plastic was more conductive of heat than wood.
I have been wondering if mouse guards are worth the trouble. I am not sure if they are needed for keeping mice out of healthy colonies, or if they are just good for keeping mice from making a mess in dead outs.
in almost 15 years now, I have only have mice visit 2 wintering colonies only cause minor damage in the lower box.
I don’t know why they need to use plastic on a poly give
better than metal, you need an edge protector against hive tools. A couple of manufactures who have flat edges can get away with a thin flat piece, those with overlapping edges needs something a bit tougher. Less worried about mid boxes but it would be nice if they stopped 1/2 way vs full length, entrance area has room for improvement.
@ I have Langstroth poly hives they have no plastic they are all poly they cost around 150 each