Thank you for watching and commenting. I often wonder if anyone watches my vids. Lol. Pls subscribe bc Episode 4 is in the works… I’ll b installing the cylinder head and maybe I will include the cams. Thx again, AJ
Thanks for our amazing video!!! I have a Yaris 2016 with 290.000 miles. Cylinder 4 is Missfiring. According to Toyota dealer is leaking oil. They said there is come oil on the trhottle body. I notice oil on the spark plug. What is the best idea. 1: to ges a used Engine (60.000 miles) or just Buy a short Block ?
@@1yotube it’s up to you. If you are mechanically inclined and know how to determine the health of a used engine, then perhaps you can save some money. However, if a new short block is affordable and you are competent to disassemble the old motor for the cylinder head and then assemble the old cylinder head to the new short block, then a new short block may be the way to go. Good luck. Pls subscribe. Thx, AJ
Thanks for watching and commenting. Perhaps you can be more specific and elaborate on the parts you are referring to when you wrote "rebuild kits". The pistons are made by NPR and I listed the source in Part 2. I can't comment on the Amazon pistons bc I haven't tried them.
This might be a stupid question, but what the heck. Shouldn't have put some oil on the rods before installing the rod bearings? I am thinking to start rebuilding my engine too (as it's dead for few months) or to do a 2zz swap and build that one.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I was always taught to install the bearings w no oil between the rod & bearing. Same goes for the rod cap. Where did you learn there is supposed to be oil between the rod and bearing? Pls subscribe
@@RelentlessRacingAJ no where officially, I believe I've seen something on TH-cam or a comment on Fb, can't remember on this topic or maybe was exactly the opposite and they were saying not to do it by anymeans, as it will increase the risk of the bearings to come off
@@avry87 if u read the OE service manual it reads in bold type, “NOTICE: Clean the backside of the bearing and the bearing surface of the bearing cap and do not let the oils and fats stick.” on pages EM-84 and EM-86. You can’t believe everything you see on TH-cam or the internet bc ppl make mistakes or they really don’t know. In fact, some of the most popular TH-cam channels (meaning they have lots of subscribers) put out incorrect info. I highly recommend you read the OE service manual or enroll in automotive classes at your local community college. Hope this helps. #stayrelentless
No luck required… these wrist pins install very easily and it’s also shown in the video. If you can’t install these wrist pins you should consider bribing your motor to a local engine building shop. Verification is also simple. The wrist pins need to sit in the groove. They install just like a circlip on a wheel bearing.
@@jasonspeid5697 I’ve used both OEM and King bearings w good success, but I always verify oil clearances meet the OEM requirements. FYI - the King bearings are less expensive and more readily available. Pls subscribe. Thx AJ
After the piston/rod install and you're turning the motor over--do you recall (roughly) how much force you were turning the motor over with?? I just completed a 1zz shortblock and noticed this motor "drags", err, takes more effort to turn-over versus other motors I've built. Just curious if that's how these 1zz's are.
I've had this discussion w my engine building mentor (John Grudynski) before... you should check the rotating resistance at multiple points in the build. 1. install the crank without the rear main seal. It should spin freely, meaning when you spin the crank by hand it should spin a little and stop because of the assembly lube drag. John recommends the Akerly and Childs assembly lube because it isn't thick and doesn't leave any residue when you run the motor. If you have resistance, it could be oil squirter interference (yes, I know the 1ZZ doesn't have any), a bent crank, a bad bearing (w coating crap on it), thrust bearings improperly lubed, girdle not torqued even or properly, or bad main bore. 2. install the pistons rod assemblies one at a time and review the rotational drag after each assembly is installed. This way you know which one is the problem. Check your rings and make sure nothing is hanging up or putting massive scratches in your cylinder bores. Lastly, don't be afraid to take it apart and double check everything. Make sure you are comfortable with it before proceeding. Hope this helps. Good luck! Thank you for watching and commenting. Please subscribe. Thanks again, -AJ
@@RelentlessRacingAJ Thank you for the reply. I ended up taking it back apart and applying more lube to everything and its spinning with less effort now. I did use a lever torque wrench to measure the effort--it was roughly 6lbs before and 2lbs after. Significant difference!
I’m not sure what you mean by building a 1ZZ, but I’m not sure it would be worth to build an NA 1ZZ. NA 2ZZ has its issues as well. I’m thinking the K is the way. Pls subscribe. Thx AJ
@RelentlessRacingAJ when I mean build, I could do a build for my mr2 that I'm collecting in the spring. Either 2zz or turbo 1zz. If I 2zz I'll want turbo eventually lol I could build the head on the 1zz for more revs. Throw cams in it.
@@btownballer27 as my buddy would say, it’s only money. I’ve driven a 1ZZ NA, 1ZZ turbo, 2ZZ NA, K20R, & K24 NA. The 1ZZ turbo was surprisingly very fun.
I appreciate you watching and leaving a comment. This video is not a complete detailed instructional, but it serves as a supplemental to the OE service manual. Get an OE service manual and read this section. It is very detailed and it combined w this video should help u. Good luck -AJ
so nice to see some fresh content that isnt years old that relates to the 1zz engine. im building a 2001 sleeper Corolla.
I appreciate you watching and commenting. Pls subscribe and hit the notification button bc I’m working on Episode 4. Stay tuned. Thx again, AJ
I love these videos! Very useful information, and fun to watch, I have a 1zz Celica myself, and this makes me excited to build it
Glad to hear someone is watching my vids. Thx so much for commenting. Pls subscribe bc Episode 4 will be coming out soon. Stay tuned. Thx again, AJ
@@RelentlessRacingAJ Liked, Subscribed, and turned post notifications on 👍
Awesome video! Thanks for the detailed info
Thank you for watching and commenting. I often wonder if anyone watches my vids. Lol. Pls subscribe bc Episode 4 is in the works… I’ll b installing the cylinder head and maybe I will include the cams. Thx again, AJ
@@RelentlessRacingAJ super helpful for me as I’m rebuilding my motor. I subscribed thanks!
@@bheypuor much appreciated. Thx again
Good work thanks
Much appreciated. Pls subscribe. Thx AJ
Thanks for our amazing video!!!
I have a Yaris 2016 with 290.000 miles. Cylinder 4 is Missfiring. According to Toyota dealer is leaking oil. They said there is come oil on the trhottle body. I notice oil on the spark plug.
What is the best idea. 1: to ges a used Engine (60.000 miles) or just Buy a short Block ?
@@1yotube it’s up to you. If you are mechanically inclined and know how to determine the health of a used engine, then perhaps you can save some money. However, if a new short block is affordable and you are competent to disassemble the old motor for the cylinder head and then assemble the old cylinder head to the new short block, then a new short block may be the way to go. Good luck. Pls subscribe. Thx, AJ
@@RelentlessRacingAJ Thanks for the sugestion! I will be back to you when I talk to the mechanic soon.
@ good luck. pls subscribe. -AJ
Where did you buy your rebuild kits and pistons? Are the Amazon s any better?
Thanks for watching and commenting. Perhaps you can be more specific and elaborate on the parts you are referring to when you wrote "rebuild kits". The pistons are made by NPR and I listed the source in Part 2. I can't comment on the Amazon pistons bc I haven't tried them.
hey im going put my 1zzfe to engine stand , what would be the bolt size ? for engine stand ? thanks
m12 *1.25*100mm for the 2 top ones, m10 for the 2 bottom ones, any thread pitch since there's no thread on engine, need nuts.
@@muslimgilani6272 thank you sooo much brother 💋
This might be a stupid question, but what the heck.
Shouldn't have put some oil on the rods before installing the rod bearings?
I am thinking to start rebuilding my engine too (as it's dead for few months) or to do a 2zz swap and build that one.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I was always taught to install the bearings w no oil between the rod & bearing. Same goes for the rod cap. Where did you learn there is supposed to be oil between the rod and bearing? Pls subscribe
@@RelentlessRacingAJ no where officially, I believe I've seen something on TH-cam or a comment on Fb, can't remember on this topic or maybe was exactly the opposite and they were saying not to do it by anymeans, as it will increase the risk of the bearings to come off
@@avry87 if u read the OE service manual it reads in bold type, “NOTICE: Clean the backside of the bearing and the bearing surface of the bearing cap and do not let the oils and fats stick.” on pages EM-84 and EM-86. You can’t believe everything you see on TH-cam or the internet bc ppl make mistakes or they really don’t know. In fact, some of the most popular TH-cam channels (meaning they have lots of subscribers) put out incorrect info. I highly recommend you read the OE service manual or enroll in automotive classes at your local community college. Hope this helps. #stayrelentless
NYC
👊 thx for watching and commenting. Pls subscribe -AJ
Verify the risk pin lock is installed properly. How do you know it is installed properly? Good luck getting those clips in.
No luck required… these wrist pins install very easily and it’s also shown in the video. If you can’t install these wrist pins you should consider bribing your motor to a local engine building shop. Verification is also simple. The wrist pins need to sit in the groove. They install just like a circlip on a wheel bearing.
@@RelentlessRacingAJ got them installed was challenging at first.
is king bearings better than the oem bearinga
@@jasonspeid5697 I’ve used both OEM and King bearings w good success, but I always verify oil clearances meet the OEM requirements. FYI - the King bearings are less expensive and more readily available. Pls subscribe. Thx AJ
After the piston/rod install and you're turning the motor over--do you recall (roughly) how much force you were turning the motor over with?? I just completed a 1zz shortblock and noticed this motor "drags", err, takes more effort to turn-over versus other motors I've built. Just curious if that's how these 1zz's are.
I've had this discussion w my engine building mentor (John Grudynski) before... you should check the rotating resistance at multiple points in the build. 1. install the crank without the rear main seal. It should spin freely, meaning when you spin the crank by hand it should spin a little and stop because of the assembly lube drag. John recommends the Akerly and Childs assembly lube because it isn't thick and doesn't leave any residue when you run the motor. If you have resistance, it could be oil squirter interference (yes, I know the 1ZZ doesn't have any), a bent crank, a bad bearing (w coating crap on it), thrust bearings improperly lubed, girdle not torqued even or properly, or bad main bore. 2. install the pistons rod assemblies one at a time and review the rotational drag after each assembly is installed. This way you know which one is the problem. Check your rings and make sure nothing is hanging up or putting massive scratches in your cylinder bores. Lastly, don't be afraid to take it apart and double check everything. Make sure you are comfortable with it before proceeding. Hope this helps. Good luck! Thank you for watching and commenting. Please subscribe. Thanks again, -AJ
@@RelentlessRacingAJ Thank you for the reply. I ended up taking it back apart and applying more lube to everything and its spinning with less effort now. I did use a lever torque wrench to measure the effort--it was roughly 6lbs before and 2lbs after. Significant difference!
@@LawlzWords good call taking her apart
3:41 more like launch the clip
@@Jose_30 😂 but who cares bc we aren’t using them again. It becomes part of the shop. Thx for watching. Pls subscribe. Thx again AJ
how do i mute the music? far too loud
How mi Bedr you Have Good job
@@JimmyGasiber what?
Where are the number on the rod bearings?
Check out the 1ZZ tear down on my TH-cam channel. Pls subscribe. Thx AJ
2nz calage distribution
@@RoosveltKenne-r6p sorry I don’t understand your comment
Got me reved up. Thinking 2zz or build 1zz hmmmmm
I’m not sure what you mean by building a 1ZZ, but I’m not sure it would be worth to build an NA 1ZZ. NA 2ZZ has its issues as well. I’m thinking the K is the way. Pls subscribe. Thx AJ
@RelentlessRacingAJ when I mean build, I could do a build for my mr2 that I'm collecting in the spring. Either 2zz or turbo 1zz. If I 2zz I'll want turbo eventually lol I could build the head on the 1zz for more revs. Throw cams in it.
@@btownballer27 as my buddy would say, it’s only money. I’ve driven a 1ZZ NA, 1ZZ turbo, 2ZZ NA, K20R, & K24 NA. The 1ZZ turbo was surprisingly very fun.
Please do the video again and please don’t skip things and explain things slowly. Why are u in a hurry? And for the position show sides
I appreciate you watching and leaving a comment. This video is not a complete detailed instructional, but it serves as a supplemental to the OE service manual. Get an OE service manual and read this section. It is very detailed and it combined w this video should help u. Good luck -AJ