Here is the link for the new BMW 2013 and above electronic wastegate actuator shown in video: amzn.to/3BE13kH And A link for the older style wastegate for BMW 2012 and before: amzn.to/4eEjDYA
Thank you brotha. Great job attempting to learn a skill. You got this. You get stuck just comment below and ill answer. Let us know your results in the comments. Side note I just uploaded a rotor and break upgrade video if you would like to broaden your mechanical skills (th-cam.com/video/tUIG-o7v4bA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=iY7_nKwI1LX1Fl1M)
Sounds like you are at the end of the job 🎉 . It will take 50-100 miles driving time to clear an engine code. 9/10 times, these codes are cleared by hooking up diagnostics ECU device and clearing the codes that way. Take it to neighborhood auto part store for they can do that for you or the poor mans way. The old-school trick of draining power from a car’s ECU (Electronic Control Unit) using a resistor typically involves using an ohm resistor to discharge residual electrical charge from the ECU after the battery is disconnected. This is done to reset the ECU or clear fault codes without using a scanner. Here’s a common method: 1. Disconnect the battery: Remove both the positive and negative terminals from the car battery to cut power to the ECU. 2. Install the resistor: Use a resistor (often a 10-ohm, 1-watt resistor) and connect it between the disconnected battery terminals. The resistor allows for a controlled discharge of any residual energy in the ECU and other systems. This method is safer than directly shorting the terminals. 3. Wait for a few minutes: Leave the resistor in place for about 10-30 minutes to ensure that all power has drained from the system. 4. Reconnect the battery: After sufficient time has passed, remove the resistor and reconnect the battery terminals. This procedure can reset the ECU, clearing certain fault codes or returning adaptive learning systems (such as fuel trims and transmission shift patterns) to factory settings. Note: These methods are used at your own risk, and it is recommended to follow the vehicle manufacturer’s guidance or use an OBD-II scanner for proper diagnostics. Nerovisum and its subsidiaries is not responsible for any possible unsatisfactory outcomes. All information must require your own research before attempting any service displayed or shown. Good luck and congrats on the journey of saving yourself money by empowering yourself! Now you know the job is done right✅
Hey! I have a 2012 528i derive N20. Ive been getting the “FC120308 boost pressure control, plausibility: pressure too low” code for a few years and drivetrain malfunction. This is the only code I have. Car drives fine but throws code every time I accelerate for the first time of the drive. It’s a pretty loud rattle when the car is just sitting as well. Could this just be the wastegate actuator? If I replace that with another one, could it solve the problem?
Over time, the valve operated by the actuator no longer seals tightly against the manifold as it did when the car was new, which is common with regular use. This can result in low boost pressure and cause rattling noises. You have two options to address this issue-let me know if you’d like more details, and I’d be happy to help further. FYI you have a non electrical actuator which is not shown in this video. The one in the video is a electrical actuator which BMW used in the years after yours. One other rattle occurrence something within the exhaust system of certain BMW. Cars with duel exhaust will shut down to one exhaust for gas and emissions efficiency.
Here is the link for the new BMW 2013 and above electronic wastegate actuator shown in video: amzn.to/3BE13kH And A link for the older style wastegate for BMW 2012 and before: amzn.to/4eEjDYA
I need to replace the same thing but those four screws are rusted to the point of falling apart when touched. Anything you recommend I do to help make it easier? My last option is taking it to a mechanic 😅
Hello @zyRexGaming check out the link to my website on an article I just wrote inspired by your post. It gives some detail in writing/audio. If that doesn’t help you may need to take off the manifold and everything as a whole to have better access. Take your time and be patient. Let me know your results. Good luck! Audio Article to help: www.nerovisum.com/?p=11325
Email me at: TH-cam@nerovisum.com for general DIY help support and paid video conference call and walk you through repair process service available. Just put “DYI Help” in the subject line. State your problem regarding the posted TH-cam content. Thank you subscribers and keep up the great work! @nerovisum
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Here is the link for the new BMW 2013 and above electronic wastegate actuator shown in video: amzn.to/3BE13kH
And
A link for the older style wastegate for BMW 2012 and before: amzn.to/4eEjDYA
Great video bro! Just bought one gonna try it this weekend.
Thank you brotha. Great job attempting to learn a skill. You got this. You get stuck just comment below and ill answer. Let us know your results in the comments.
Side note I just uploaded a rotor and break upgrade video if you would like to broaden your mechanical skills (th-cam.com/video/tUIG-o7v4bA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=iY7_nKwI1LX1Fl1M)
Should the Check Engine light automatically clear itself? Thanks
Sounds like you are at the end of the job 🎉 . It will take 50-100 miles driving time to clear an engine code. 9/10 times, these codes are cleared by hooking up diagnostics ECU device and clearing the codes that way. Take it to neighborhood auto part store for they can do that for you or the poor mans way.
The old-school trick of draining power from a car’s ECU (Electronic Control Unit) using a resistor typically involves using an ohm resistor to discharge residual electrical charge from the ECU after the battery is disconnected. This is done to reset the ECU or clear fault codes without using a scanner. Here’s a common method:
1. Disconnect the battery: Remove both the positive and negative terminals from the car battery to cut power to the ECU.
2. Install the resistor: Use a resistor (often a 10-ohm, 1-watt resistor) and connect it between the disconnected battery terminals. The resistor allows for a controlled discharge of any residual energy in the ECU and other systems. This method is safer than directly shorting the terminals.
3. Wait for a few minutes: Leave the resistor in place for about 10-30 minutes to ensure that all power has drained from the system.
4. Reconnect the battery: After sufficient time has passed, remove the resistor and reconnect the battery terminals.
This procedure can reset the ECU, clearing certain fault codes or returning adaptive learning systems (such as fuel trims and transmission shift patterns) to factory settings.
Note: These methods are used at your own risk, and it is recommended to follow the vehicle manufacturer’s guidance or use an OBD-II scanner for proper diagnostics. Nerovisum and its subsidiaries is not responsible for any possible unsatisfactory outcomes. All information must require your own research before attempting any service displayed or shown. Good luck and congrats on the journey of saving yourself money by empowering yourself! Now you know the job is done right✅
@@Nerovisum Much appreciated, thanks for taking the time to write this up
Hey! I have a 2012 528i derive N20. Ive been getting the “FC120308 boost pressure control, plausibility: pressure too low” code for a few years and drivetrain malfunction. This is the only code I have. Car drives fine but throws code every time I accelerate for the first time of the drive. It’s a pretty loud rattle when the car is just sitting as well. Could this just be the wastegate actuator? If I replace that with another one, could it solve the problem?
Over time, the valve operated by the actuator no longer seals tightly against the manifold as it did when the car was new, which is common with regular use. This can result in low boost pressure and cause rattling noises. You have two options to address this issue-let me know if you’d like more details, and I’d be happy to help further. FYI you have a non electrical actuator which is not shown in this video. The one in the video is a electrical actuator which BMW used in the years after yours.
One other rattle occurrence something within the exhaust system of certain BMW. Cars with duel exhaust will shut down to one exhaust for gas and emissions efficiency.
Do you have a link to the part for this?
Here is the link for the new BMW 2013 and above electronic wastegate actuator shown in video: amzn.to/3BE13kH
And
A link for the older style wastegate for BMW 2012 and before: amzn.to/4eEjDYA
I need to replace the same thing but those four screws are rusted to the point of falling apart when touched. Anything you recommend I do to help make it easier? My last option is taking it to a mechanic 😅
Hello @zyRexGaming check out the link to my website on an article I just wrote inspired by your post. It gives some detail in writing/audio. If that doesn’t help you may need to take off the manifold and everything as a whole to have better access. Take your time and be patient. Let me know your results. Good luck!
Audio Article to help:
www.nerovisum.com/?p=11325
Email me at: TH-cam@nerovisum.com for general DIY help support and paid video conference call and walk you through repair process service available. Just put “DYI Help” in the subject line. State your problem regarding the posted TH-cam content.
Thank you subscribers and keep up the great work!
@nerovisum
I adjusted my link and it worked no more check engine
Good job that’s what I’m talking about👊🏾