Your channel is amazing, your videos are a pleasure to watch for an enthusiast like me. I always follow you, with great pleasure from Italy. Greetings and I wish you the best!
Thank you! Yes, this is actually on the better side of what you can expect for a 10 year old salt belt car. Trust me, I have seen cars where the subframe was actually about to collapse at any minute. This one will be more than fine after we clean it up and recoat it which i’ll show in one of the later parts.
Just discovered your channel. Immediately when I heard your voice I realized you’re from Montreal too. So far I’m seeing some great informative content! Personally I’m currently looking at buying an LCI b48 f31.
I bought the same exact car not running a month ago ('13 328 x drive but N26) for cheap and also dealing with a bunch of issues but got it running and timing chain and guides are still good at least for the moment!
Yes but dreading having to drop the subframe to do the job without a proper hydraulic lift... It's got 85k miles now so hoping it will last another 5 or 10k
@mascho22 If you’re just doing the guides and chain, you don’t need to drop the subframe fully. It’s definitely easier if you can but i’ve done them more than once without. Check out FCP euros N20 timing chain videos, they do it all in the car. To be fair, it’s not an xDrive car, but it helped me a lot when I did it for the first time. Either way, good luck!
Can you elaborate a little more? If you are just partially lowering subframe you still have to disconnect most everything off it correct? I have the valve cover off and found a small piece missing in the upper guide so think I need to replace it now after all. Looks like replacing just the upper guide set is possible (if one wanted to) without having to remove oil pan and all the bottom stuff...
Guys, when car is affected with that much rust, is there hope for it? Let's say would anti-corrosive coatings would be of any use? Thanks for advising.
I have a 2015 bmw n20 with a crank no start after replacing 4 injector I did do the coding check for spark and fuel ok I have low compression 90psi on 4 cylinder it’s crazy because car was running any tips on what to check
Hi there, maybe there's a problem with the way the injector was installed. Did you replace the teflon seals and decoupling element (silver ring)? If the car was running fine before and only afterward there's an issue, it has to be something related to the install, but if the car was already running badly before, it could be anything...
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Netflix is nothing... I love Bimmer's series !!
This is so good! Technical details, good lighting, nice editing, informative. In really hope your subscriber count kicks off, you deserve it!
Can’t wait for part 2. This is so great!
what can I say , you real Doctor
I really enjoy
Really enjoying the videos, well produced and interesting choice of projects
Awesome, another series by you. Can't wait to see next episodes
Well hidden gem for bmw content!please don't stop making content thx from Scotland
You need more subscribers my friend!!!!
Your channel is amazing, your videos are a pleasure to watch for an enthusiast like me. I always follow you, with great pleasure from Italy. Greetings and I wish you the best!
Wuhuuu new series!
Even though I'm not particulary into the BMW 4 cylinders I'm very hyped for the next Episode 🎉
you...
Impresive!
Great series! Learning a ton about the N20 and f30 platform in general through these.
ahhhh the brand of the two joys. looking forward to see that fixed man! 💪
Is this car salvageable with all that rust? Looks like that subframe could collapse any minute. Glad to see you back, love your videos.
Thank you! Yes, this is actually on the better side of what you can expect for a 10 year old salt belt car. Trust me, I have seen cars where the subframe was actually about to collapse at any minute. This one will be more than fine after we clean it up and recoat it which i’ll show in one of the later parts.
I love to watch this style of video, so great and wonderful
Very nice job and good video❤
Amazing pacing and Explanation
Just discovered your channel. Immediately when I heard your voice I realized you’re from Montreal too. So far I’m seeing some great informative content! Personally I’m currently looking at buying an LCI b48 f31.
Yes, Montreal is right! If you like the F31, keep an eye out as I have some very interesting content coming up on one in the next few months.
You doing a video addressing the rust? I’m interested in knowing what spots the f30 develops rust
Great video. Curious about your lift and table setup. Would love for you to make a video of your shop setup and what it cost in Canada.
Great idea! The only problem is that there is almost always a car on there, not much down time. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Awesome job 🔥🙌
I bought the same exact car not running a month ago ('13 328 x drive but N26) for cheap and also dealing with a bunch of issues but got it running and timing chain and guides are still good at least for the moment!
Glad to hear you got the car running! At 10 years old, I would definitely replace them sooner rather than later…
Yes but dreading having to drop the subframe to do the job without a proper hydraulic lift... It's got 85k miles now so hoping it will last another 5 or 10k
@mascho22 If you’re just doing the guides and chain, you don’t need to drop the subframe fully. It’s definitely easier if you can but i’ve done them more than once without. Check out FCP euros N20 timing chain videos, they do it all in the car. To be fair, it’s not an xDrive car, but it helped me a lot when I did it for the first time. Either way, good luck!
Can you elaborate a little more? If you are just partially lowering subframe you still have to disconnect most everything off it correct? I have the valve cover off and found a small piece missing in the upper guide so think I need to replace it now after all. Looks like replacing just the upper guide set is possible (if one wanted to) without having to remove oil pan and all the bottom stuff...
Yes I did see the fcp video along with a few others but x drive always seems to require full removal of sub frame
Guys, when car is affected with that much rust, is there hope for it? Let's say would anti-corrosive coatings would be of any use? Thanks for advising.
great content, keep it up
Definitely a clapped-out 328! How many miles on it?
Did this thing live at the bottom of the sea?
Got the same car and the engine wont turn off. Im thinking if should get a replacement engine or try to rebuild it
kimochi yamete!!
Очень интересно 👍 жду продолжение. Почему авто такое ржавое, где оно использовалось? Спасибо.
Thank you! The car is from Canada and we use lots of road salt in the winter. I’ll restore the rust later in the project
@@bimmer.doctor it seems to be drowned. So much sand under the hood confirms that.
I have a 2015 bmw n20 with a crank no start after replacing 4 injector I did do the coding check for spark and fuel ok I have low compression 90psi on 4 cylinder it’s crazy because car was running any tips on what to check
Hi there, maybe there's a problem with the way the injector was installed. Did you replace the teflon seals and decoupling element (silver ring)? If the car was running fine before and only afterward there's an issue, it has to be something related to the install, but if the car was already running badly before, it could be anything...
@@bimmer.doctor injector were purchased from dealer with new decoupling
Yikes look at all that rust... this is why I would never buy a car from quebec. The roads there are just brutal.
Spoiler Alert: This engine wasn't seized, the alternator was. So not too much to learn from it.
Dude you took that engine/transmission OUT like a two week held in constipated shit… 😅 the whole dinosaur 🦖 one drop!
LOL that made me laugh 😆I always take my time to make sure I didn't forget to disconnect anything. Glad you enjoyed the video