I had a similar situation recently , so I called a few people off Kijiji (Canadian classified) and was quoted 250$ for a new valve , I was flabbergasted, and when told the person that estimate seemed steep, they were very offended....in conclusion , I bought a new valve for about 15$ from home Depot . Thank you again for the great content :)
After you cut the pipe make markings at 1/2 inch and at 3/4 of an inch away from each cut. Once the valve is in position you can only guess that you are grabbing enough pipe on each side. .the black marks will come in handy then
I've yet to see an instructional video where there weren't a bunch of douchebags saying "he didn't do it right" "that's not how you do it" "he forgot xyz". Lots of insecurity out there.
Ball valve are more expensive the a regular valve. It might run as much as $2.00 more in so stores! Stick with replacing it with the same type of valve unless money is no object or you have a million dollar home.
Gate valves suck - easy to overtighten and the gates crud up over time. Plus gate design changes every few years so good luck if you are just wanting to replace the stem assembly. 1/4 turn ball valves will last forever.
@@patrickwhelan5703 Yes I understand that soldering takes a while I just thought it would be nice if Richard told him how to solder . thanks and merry Christmas
I saw this segment years ago. I don't know why anyone would replace an existing stop valve that has soldered connections with stop valve with compression connections when some simple maintenance would have sufficed. He should have shown the homeowner how to replace the faucet washer and add to or replace the stem packing. And then, gave him advice on how to snug-up the packing nut as needed instead of letting it leak from the stem for years as evidenced by the build-up of green copper corrosion and calcium on the exterior of original valve.
I'm guessing Richard has these compression gate valves overstocked in his truck because no one uses them anymore plus compression ball valves are less likely to leak and usually cheaper too.
That guy actually knew how to use a crescent wrench properly. I'm impressed because I've seen it used backwards so many times, both in real life (I've got the skinned knuckles to prove it) and on this show.
@@jesusnthedaisychain I think the manufacturer recommends what leads to fewer warranty claims. Putting the pressure at the bottom of the sliding jaw leads to less chance of rounding the fastener.
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists Neat theory but does it aactually make a difference? Cant sediment get caught in the up position jist as easily since the water pressure is equal on all sides?
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists Sounds legit i just dunno why everyone doesnt know this then.. I guess they do the same thigs with gas lines leaving a pipe extending down in areas for catching debris
Good video. “Crescent” is a brand name of tools, not the name of a type of wrench. What Richard meant to say is “adjustable wrench”. Crescent also makes other tools that are not the adjustable wrench that people associate with their name
Should hand tighten those compression nuts and then do about a half a turn. turn water on and test. if it leaks go another 1/4 or as necessary to stop it. Usually a 1/4 to 1/2 turn after hand tight is enough. Overtightening a compression fitting is suboptimal and not recommended.
I have one of these valves that is leaking and corroded badly. It is between the hot and cold water coming into and out of my oil fired tankless furnace. DO I SHUT DOWN AND DRAIN EVERYTHING TO SOLDER A NEW VALVE IN ? I do not want to lose heat now in the middle of winter ! Thanks for your help .
Soldering pipes isn't all that difficult to learn. I'd much rather have a properly soldered valve ... and I'd definitely much rather have it be a quarter-turn ball valve!
It is a good way to replace the valve, but with old pipes you need to be very careful not to disturb the other pipes. Hacksaw instead of a pipe cutter not recommended.
Reduce the vibrational load by using blocks of wood to make the pipes more sturdy while you use the hacksaw - especially if you dont have anyone to help 😊
How do you deal with the situation of not having any play in the pipe? In the video there was a lot of play so one could just insert the new valve into the existing pipe, that doesn't work so well when there is zero play in the pipe on either side of the existing valve. With PVC they have an extending coupling to deal with the situation, haven't seen anything like that for copper.
I am wondering about the the 2 pipes NEEDING to bottom out inside the valve or not ? I am looking to do the same upgrade and concerned the pipes having no movement in my situation. Its 1/2 copper pipe.
I have a leaky ball valve to the main line of my house. It’s before my meter. I called the water guys and they said they don’t cover that I have to get a plumber. I don’t wanna pay for a plumber. Any good videos on how to replace the leaky valve before my water meter?
overkill for such a small job. I use angle grinders daily at work but for a job like this.. don't think I would start messing with all that extension cords and stuff. I guess if you had a cordless one.. but those things are not made for real work.
I don’t understand how the new valve is supposed to fit when there’s no playing in any of the pipes if I cut at exactly the end of the old one the new one is the exact same size now I’m screwed with my water shut off
I am not a plumber , but I think , even with ferrules making the seal , that after cutting , the inside of the copper pipe gets debured . This stops turbulence inside when the water flows . That can cause other problems .
When he cut off the valve and made the 2 shorter pipes, how can he reconnect the new valve with 2 shorter pipes? Can he break the pipe if he force the 2 shorter pipes to connect to the new valve?
I did this exactly but it leaks because the ferrule curled around the end of the pipe. Make sure the ferrule slides completely on to the pipe and doesn't overhang. I think the only way this method will work is if your pipe has a little play so you can close the gap a little. My pipes are fixed so this method doesn't work.
Heh, I just learned this the hard way. Was trying to avoid using a torch in the location I'm working as I have very little space, but the pipe has no play and the gap is too large to get a decent seal. Tried the teflon, but it still drips as the ferrule still gets pulled past the edge of the pipe when I tighten. Looking around hoping I can find another valve with just a tiny longer width, but it doesn't look like that exists. I keep getting recommended shark bite instead, might have to resort to that instead.
I just did this project, but was concerned about the extra longitudinal tension put on the pipes because of the loss of pipe length from sawing out the valve. It made me feel uncomfortable that it might pull out of the compression fitting someday, or leak at some nearby joint. So I added a Sharkbite slip fitting to extend the pipe. No leaks and no tension. I’m thinking of buying a WiFi water leak sensor for further peace of mind. I just found out that my water heater is 17 years old. Yikes! I won’t be doing that one on my own.
This is great when you have a lot of space, my pipe had less than an inch clearance. There should be more conditioning of the pipe and deburring the inside. I tried cutting the pipe with a hacksaw, trying to make it even. I had a huge fail, and difficulty removing the valve, eventually having to buy a bicycle wrench to remove the valve. I'm pretty sure it would work if the valve wasn't so tight for space.
The first time I replaced one of these valves and tried sweating it, it ended up like the Three Stooges--water everywhere. Luckily I was able to get a plumber before the wife got home to cook dinner. I have since had more success. Take a look at Sharkbite fittings. No sweating and you can remove them easily if you desire.
some times logic doesn't make it into code as it SHOULD.. a compression is better down in the basement where drains are and because they can be tweaked to stop leaking in a moments notice where as other leaking joints can not be serviced so easily behind closed walls etc. another example of code failure is concerning the requirements for apartments and condos to have only metal drains under the kitchen abd bathroom sinks , based on fire safety concerns..yet most cupboards are made of combustible woods and material and most folks store plastics containers and combustibles under their sink, likewise forbidding ABS pipe isn't logical at all.. in fact ABS pipe outlasts the metal counterparts and is more leak proof.
You may have to call the water company and have them shut the water off at the street. Hopefully someone else can give you a better answer than mine. Good luck!
I've always used what's called crocus cloth on copper pipe. It'll really clean-up copper pipe really slick and pretty. It's an abrasive sheet (You can also buy it in a roll) that's similar to sandpaper (Closer to emery cloth), but covered with a layer of very fine, loose, iron oxide particles rather than with an abrasive like sandpaper.
I used a saw zaw to cut a PVC vent pipe and knicked a copper line went to shut off the main and the ball valve broke I had to run to homedepot and get a shark bite fitting.
There's a lot of Chinese valves out there. I don't really wanna roll the dice with one. I just bailed out of the more convenient Ace Hardware, drove further to Home Depot, and paid more so I could get an Italian made ball valve vs. the Chinese one.
@@user-hn8wm5xd9f Sharkbites are nice. But, like anything, people need to read up on their installation. You can't simply slap them on without a little prep. I also recommend the Sharkbite removal tongs if you ever plan on removing them or using one of their slip joints. The tongs sell for about $10.00 and you can buy them at Lowe's.
ibanez1403 yes you can use a compression fitting on your main. they sure are nice to since it's sometimes very difficult to get all the moisture out of a line when soldering.
3:093:29 Internet Tool Police: You instructed the homeowner and your internet audience to use a cresent wrench backwards, twice. [EDIT] I think the manufacturer recommends what leads to fewer warranty claims. Putting the pressure at the bottom of the sliding jaw leads to less chance of rounding the fastener.
Shark bite has a slip install so it is not a fixed length. That may be needed if the pipes are fixed. But you need to move the pipe slightly to get it on.
Most valves are not necessary. You need a main valve in the house. And valves going to a bathroom group and a hot water heater and outside faucet.and the once-a-year exercise all the valves in your house or as it is explained call a real plumber
Timothy Champagne you need to find two threads in the area of the old valve , so the old valve will unscrew that’s one thread than you have to replace the pipe down to the next thread in line. Once you have two threads than you screw on a thread ball valve , they are the best valve out there and they work for your lifetime, second go to the second thread and screw on a copper female adapter with a piece of copper already soldered Into the adapter, and than screw a copper male adapter into the house side of new valve with a piece of copper soldered onto that fitting also and you want your two new pieces of copper that are not threaded to butt up against each other , than just put a copper coupler on the ends of the new copper and solder that last fitting.
Many old houses have galvanized steel supply lines well before copper was common practice. When possible (access and financial means), it's best to replace all of the old pipes because the old pipes will rust up and give you hard water and rust stains as they age. You just have to make sure you use a brass or dielectric connection between the old and new pipes or you'll have a bad time (bad chemical reactions between zinc and copper)
compression fittings are fine if done correctly...make sure they are accessible and not hidden in walls etc.. and make sure pipes are well supported and not flapping around..wont have problems.
Interesting that they didn't stress to shut off the water at the street first... someone is going to try this without doing that... and then they'll realize that (A) they don't know where the street shut off is, or (B) they don't have the tool to close the valve there.
The operative word is "easily." If he could of easily de-soldered the valve, then he could of easily soldered on a new one. I think he was showing an option for the homeowner. If that compression valve needs replacing in the future, it's a big deal getting those ferrules off. They require a special tool.
Yes Richard I would like to know why you put the valve up and the waist up instead of the waist down like how it was originally. I'm sure you have a good reason I just can't think of it so please enlighten me if you will. Thank you
Steve Kunkel when you place the valve handle down it increases the chance of debris settling in the valve which could potentially cause the valve to not close when needed. However in this situation since he used a shutoff that has the drain on it, placing the valve handle upwards renders the drain useless. Placing it on the side usually makes it so little to no debris settles in the valve, and then the drain would work the way it were designed.
it is often best to have several teeth of the saw engage the cross section you are cutting. for the relatively thin copper pipe this would require many teeth per inch. 32 might be close, but if you cant find one that fine use as many as you can get.
I had a similar situation recently , so I called a few people off Kijiji (Canadian classified) and was quoted 250$ for a new valve , I was flabbergasted, and when told the person that estimate seemed steep, they were very offended....in conclusion , I bought a new valve for about 15$ from home Depot . Thank you again for the great content :)
That's about what it costs for a plumber to come out and do an hour job
After you cut the pipe make markings at 1/2 inch and at 3/4 of an inch away from each cut. Once the valve is in position you can only guess that you are grabbing enough pipe on each side. .the black marks will come in handy then
A lot of people on here are armchair plumbers, personally I learned a lot. Great video!
I've yet to see an instructional video where there weren't a bunch of douchebags saying "he didn't do it right" "that's not how you do it" "he forgot xyz". Lots of insecurity out there.
That was awesome! What was shown, without soldering, will save me a lot of aggravation and the fear of burning down my house.
Lol, I have the same fear, some of these valves are just too close to the studs
Thanks for this easy to follow video, With your guiding, I was able to replace the leaking water valve without any problem.
Thank you guys...I did this repair myself and saved $180...thanks again!
You always know you are going to get what you need when you watch this channel. Some of the best!
I got two words for you. BALL VALVE!!!
Ball valve are more expensive the a regular valve. It might run as much as $2.00 more in so stores! Stick with replacing it with the same type of valve unless money is no object or you have a million dollar home.
Nobody uses those valves anymore.
Alot easier to rebuild vs ball valve.
Gate valves suck - easy to overtighten and the gates crud up over time. Plus gate design changes every few years so good luck if you are just wanting to replace the stem assembly. 1/4 turn ball valves will last forever.
@@Dfk429S9fo3everyone uses ball valves now ? I dont see anyone using gates anymore.
Since they missed this...
Step one: Turn the water main off!
Step 3. Get a bucket in case there is extra water in the pipe
Step 4: Get frustrated and end up calling a plumber
WangChung81 step 5: get a life
Richard Trethewey is a professional and he does always know what he's doing
Too late my basement is flooded
Client: will you teach me how to solder
Richard: no not a chance
I thought that was snoty the way Richard said that
@@calebculwell8760 not really. Soldering takes time, patience and practice. Unlikely that anyone gets it right first time out of the box.
@@patrickwhelan5703 Yes I understand that soldering takes a while I just thought it would be nice if Richard told him how to solder .
thanks and merry Christmas
What i say when people ask me to show them how i do my job. i say No its too much work.
@@patrickwhelan5703 I got it right on the first time
I saw this segment years ago. I don't know why anyone would replace an existing stop valve that has soldered connections with stop valve with compression connections when some simple maintenance would have sufficed.
He should have shown the homeowner how to replace the faucet washer and add to or replace the stem packing. And then, gave him advice on how to snug-up the packing nut as needed instead of letting it leak from the stem for years as evidenced by the build-up of green copper corrosion and calcium on the exterior of original valve.
I'm guessing Richard has these compression gate valves overstocked in his truck because no one uses them anymore plus compression ball valves are less likely to leak and usually cheaper too.
2:13 - tip, don't cut one side completely off, stop at 8/10s then do the other side - then finish off
I prefer to stop 4/5 of the way
@@MrJabez89 16/20 I's industry standards 🤣
@@bassinbilliards6279 industry standards
@@bassinbilliards6279 I just stop after "three Mississippi" and wherever I am is correct.
Why? Some explanation would be very useful.
I just love this old fashioned wisdom
That guy actually knew how to use a crescent wrench properly. I'm impressed because I've seen it used backwards so many times, both in real life (I've got the skinned knuckles to prove it) and on this show.
Umm, no. He used it backwards twice. The force needs to hit the bottom of the moveable jaw, because the top of the jaw can move more than the bottom.
@@johngalt97 Try it your way and tell me how that works out for you.
@@jesusnthedaisychain I think the manufacturer recommends what leads to fewer warranty claims. Putting the pressure at the bottom of the sliding jaw leads to less chance of rounding the fastener.
"Can I overtighten it?"
"Eh, I wouldn't worry about it with you."
I would love to see them film a tricky situation
"the way i like to do it is install the stem in the most awkward position possible to turn it off later."
Sediment won't be able to get caught in the valve's gateway. The best orientation possible is with the stem facing upwards.
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists
Neat theory but does it aactually make a difference? Cant sediment get caught in the up position jist as easily since the water pressure is equal on all sides?
@@theazure4171 Normally flux settles to the bottom and causes corrosion in copper as well.
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists
Sounds legit i just dunno why everyone doesnt know this then..
I guess they do the same thigs with gas lines leaving a pipe extending down in areas for catching debris
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists
One guy sàid hed put the bleeder in the down position...so which is better?
Good video. “Crescent” is a brand name of tools, not the name of a type of wrench. What Richard meant to say is “adjustable wrench”. Crescent also makes other tools that are not the adjustable wrench that people associate with their name
Now lecture us about Skil saws, or sawz-alls
Chill dork
I never replace plumbing fixtures in my Brooks Brothers button down shirt and v-neck sweater. I put on a tweed jacket over my shirt and sweater.
The homeowner should have been using gloves when using the hack saw.
2:34 how is it gonna drain if the drain cap is seemingly above the pipe?
Just lets the pressure from upstream drain out with closed valve. Instead of shutting house water supply off.
I am in Southern Califonia so do I need a valve with drain? Why do you need the drain?
You don't need it in Socal.
Should hand tighten those compression nuts and then do about a half a turn. turn water on and test. if it leaks go another 1/4 or as necessary to stop it. Usually a 1/4 to 1/2 turn after hand tight is enough. Overtightening a compression fitting is suboptimal and not recommended.
Can you do the same thing with galvanized pipe?
You ever figure it out?
@@aaronbaraiya3692 no
@@timewithchaplainken3916 E
Richard swears by those Farrells he loves those he probably collects them
And wears one around his ... finger
I have one of these valves that is leaking and corroded badly. It is between the hot and cold water coming into and out of my oil fired tankless furnace. DO I SHUT DOWN AND DRAIN EVERYTHING TO SOLDER A NEW VALVE IN ? I do not want to lose heat now in the middle of winter ! Thanks for your help .
You will have to drain the water in order to solder a new valve on
I did one today using the exact method, I was worried I might scorch the wood if I used a torch, the valve was close to a wooden cross brace.
Try using a thin piece of aluminum for a heat shield, bends easy and prevents fire and burns.
Soldering pipes isn't all that difficult to learn. I'd much rather have a properly soldered valve ... and I'd definitely much rather have it be a quarter-turn ball valve!
True, but sometimes difficult when even a little water is present.
Nothing wrong with using these compression connections.
@keith cunningham I learned that trick, using a piece of bread to hold back the water in the pipe from a plumber friend of mine. Works slick.
Open a faucet upstairs give a downward slope to both sides of the pipe, have a toke or drink a beer, come back n finish up
It is a good way to replace the valve, but with old pipes you need to be very careful not to disturb the other pipes. Hacksaw instead of a pipe cutter not recommended.
Reduce the vibrational load by using blocks of wood to make the pipes more sturdy while you use the hacksaw - especially if you dont have anyone to help 😊
Whatis your opinion of unsoldering the old valve from the pipe and soldering on a new valve? Is the old solder going to present a problem?
How do you deal with the situation of not having any play in the pipe? In the video there was a lot of play so one could just insert the new valve into the existing pipe, that doesn't work so well when there is zero play in the pipe on either side of the existing valve. With PVC they have an extending coupling to deal with the situation, haven't seen anything like that for copper.
you'd have to add additional pipe with a coupler.
Or use sharkbite slip coupling
There are copper sliding couplers
Spray some white grease or T9 boeshield on that new valve and it will never corrode again.
🤦♂️
Hmm might try that
I am wondering about the the 2 pipes NEEDING to bottom out inside the valve or not ?
I am looking to do the same upgrade and concerned the pipes having no movement in my situation. Its 1/2 copper pipe.
I used one 20 some years ago at my Dad's place when the main shut off was still dripping and I couldn't solder.
Did they use a reamer to clean the end of the hacked pipe ends??
I have a leaky ball valve to the main line of my house. It’s before my meter. I called the water guys and they said they don’t cover that I have to get a plumber. I don’t wanna pay for a plumber. Any good videos on how to replace the leaky valve before my water meter?
it takes 1 second to cut it with a angle grinder and a metal cutting thin blade... works great
overkill for such a small job. I use angle grinders daily at work but for a job like this.. don't think I would start messing with all that extension cords and stuff. I guess if you had a cordless one.. but those things are not made for real work.
@heke. I do real work all the time with cordless grinders.
Will this work if the pipes aren't copper? My mother's house is a very old house...
I don’t understand how the new valve is supposed to fit when there’s no playing in any of the pipes if I cut at exactly the end of the old one the new one is the exact same size now I’m screwed with my water shut off
very nice guide. thank you very much
No deburring?
Good work sir
I am not a plumber , but I think , even with ferrules making the seal , that after cutting , the inside of the copper pipe gets debured . This stops turbulence inside when the water flows . That can cause other problems .
When he cut off the valve and made the 2 shorter pipes, how can he reconnect the new valve with 2 shorter pipes? Can he break the pipe if he force the 2 shorter pipes to connect to the new valve?
I was wondering that also. There must have been a lot of slack in that pipe.
Ok valve is welded in to the copper pipe ! There is any wat to un welded? Heating it up ?
I did this exactly but it leaks because the ferrule curled around the end of the pipe. Make sure the ferrule slides completely on to the pipe and doesn't overhang. I think the only way this method will work is if your pipe has a little play so you can close the gap a little. My pipes are fixed so this method doesn't work.
Justen Hansen yep. You have to make sure both ends of copper pipe are fully seated into the valve then compress nuts
You can try wrapping the ferrule with Teflon tape. I find that works like magic whenever I have a leaky compression connection
Heh, I just learned this the hard way. Was trying to avoid using a torch in the location I'm working as I have very little space, but the pipe has no play and the gap is too large to get a decent seal. Tried the teflon, but it still drips as the ferrule still gets pulled past the edge of the pipe when I tighten. Looking around hoping I can find another valve with just a tiny longer width, but it doesn't look like that exists. I keep getting recommended shark bite instead, might have to resort to that instead.
I'm going to try it. Thank you.
ddude your better off using sharkbites and pex
Can pex connecting do the same. I heard pex and push fitting is way to go now
neat and clean an easy to understand
will that work with old black pipe?
I just did this project, but was concerned about the extra longitudinal tension put on the pipes because of the loss of pipe length from sawing out the valve. It made me feel uncomfortable that it might pull out of the compression fitting someday, or leak at some nearby joint. So I added a Sharkbite slip fitting to extend the pipe. No leaks and no tension. I’m thinking of buying a WiFi water leak sensor for further peace of mind. I just found out that my water heater is 17 years old. Yikes! I won’t be doing that one on my own.
Did they have to extend the copper pipe into the new valve?
To this day he’s still looking for someone to teach him to solder
Lol, at his age I don't think he needs too
LMAO LMAO
It aint over till you test it!
Many times ooops leaking.... adjust done.
Wished he would've explained why he chose not to use a ball valve as that seems to be the usual recommendation.
Probably trying to use old stock up that's on the truck.
This guy is a genius
This is great when you have a lot of space, my pipe had less than an inch clearance. There should be more conditioning of the pipe and deburring the inside. I tried cutting the pipe with a hacksaw, trying to make it even. I had a huge fail, and difficulty removing the valve, eventually having to buy a bicycle wrench to remove the valve. I'm pretty sure it would work if the valve wasn't so tight for space.
The first time I replaced one of these valves and tried sweating it, it ended up like the Three Stooges--water everywhere. Luckily I was able to get a plumber before the wife got home to cook dinner. I have since had more success. Take a look at Sharkbite fittings. No sweating and you can remove them easily if you desire.
some times logic doesn't make it into code as it SHOULD.. a compression is better down in the basement where drains are and because they can be tweaked to stop leaking in a moments notice where as other leaking joints can not be serviced so easily behind closed walls etc. another example of code failure is concerning the requirements for apartments and condos to have only metal drains under the kitchen abd bathroom sinks , based on fire safety concerns..yet most cupboards are made of combustible woods and material and most folks store plastics containers and combustibles under their sink, likewise forbidding ABS pipe isn't logical at all.. in fact ABS pipe outlasts the metal counterparts and is more leak proof.
good content. good vid. thank you.
Great Video
I only have a Mickey hacksaw, not a Minnie... I'll have to get a Minnie
EyeSea Watt U Did Thar
lol
That's "tiny Tim " or "Tom thumb" in plumbing language. Lol
Really great work
What about if it's an inline valve and there's no play in the pipes?
l have a old house my main valve handle cant shut off the water. so what can l do ?
You may have to call the water company and have them shut the water off at the street. Hopefully someone else can give you a better answer than mine. Good luck!
If you don't know how to solder. Use shark bite valve. They work great and save you time. I've been using them for over 20 years.
I would put the bleeder in the down position
what grit sandpaper did you use
It's called sand cloth and found in the plumbing area. It doesn't have a grit number like what you use for wood.
it's emery cloth which is aluminum oxide abrasive glued to fabric. for copper pipe you'd use 120 to 180 grit
I've always used what's called crocus cloth on copper pipe. It'll really clean-up copper pipe really slick and pretty. It's an abrasive sheet (You can also buy it in a roll) that's similar to sandpaper (Closer to emery cloth), but covered with a layer of very fine, loose, iron oxide particles rather than with an abrasive like sandpaper.
I used a saw zaw to cut a PVC vent pipe and knicked a copper line went to shut off the main and the ball valve broke I had to run to homedepot and get a shark bite fitting.
There's a lot of Chinese valves out there. I don't really wanna roll the dice with one. I just bailed out of the more convenient Ace Hardware, drove further to Home Depot, and paid more so I could get an Italian made ball valve vs. the Chinese one.
I saw in the background there was a 2-3” copper pipe. Anybody know what that pipe is for?
I didn't see it, I would guess some kind of waste line drain like for a clothes washer or sump pump.
Waste line for sure. It has an old drum trap on it. Maybe a shower drain?
As long a they remember to close the drain before turning the water back on. Or maybe that's on Richard's blooper reel.
Charles Damery il
lLikeD THANK YOU
Mine just broke in my basement got to see how to replace it fast
How do you replace one of these shut off valves when the pipes running into it have threads on them?
They have threaded valves to
just teach the old man to solder already!
FOR ME THIS OLD GUY IS REALLY DUMB SOLDER DUDE INSTEAD OF USING COMPRESSION NUTS YOU COULD EASILY USE SHARKBITES ALL YOU DO IS SNAP ON
@@user-hn8wm5xd9f Sharkbites are nice. But, like anything, people need to read up on their installation. You can't simply slap them on without a little prep. I also recommend the Sharkbite removal tongs if you ever plan on removing them or using one of their slip joints. The tongs sell for about $10.00 and you can buy them at Lowe's.
Trying to fix plumbing on my old house cuz I’m the only guy in the house couldn’t appreciate this more
Can this solder-less valve be used as a main valve for a house ?
no you need a stopcock but yes that can be compression (solderless) in uk
ibanez1403 yes you can use a compression fitting on your main. they sure are nice to since it's sometimes very difficult to get all the moisture out of a line when soldering.
that stop and waste style cannot be used as a main house shutoff....use either a gate or ball valve.
ibanez1403 she
you can use a stop and drain for a house. The drain just has to be on the upper portion of the line, not before the valve.
3:09 3:29 Internet Tool Police: You instructed the homeowner and your internet audience to use a cresent wrench backwards, twice.
[EDIT] I think the manufacturer recommends what leads to fewer warranty claims. Putting the pressure at the bottom of the sliding jaw leads to less chance of rounding the fastener.
So what happens if you the closest you can cut it off is too wide for the new valve?
You would need to solder on an extension, or do a Sharkbite install.
Shark bite has a slip install so it is not a fixed length. That may be needed if the pipes are fixed. But you need to move the pipe slightly to get it on.
Why (at about 45 seconds) does he say that it's smarter to replace the whole valve instead of repacking the stem? Just asking.
....Clever...I never would have thought...but....diameter of piping...???...the valve must be the same as the copper line....
You could see that he has more of those along the ceiling
He looks just like James Dyson
Most valves are not necessary. You need a main valve in the house. And valves going to a bathroom group and a hot water heater and outside faucet.and the once-a-year exercise all the valves in your house or as it is explained call a real plumber
Shark Bite: solder-less connection bitches!
Nuts and Ferrules: hold my beer...
Sleeve or ferule?
it depends on where you live here in the usa and Canada we call them feruls. but in the uk they call them sleeves and olives.
Beats having to use heat to join connections
It’s better to set the valve same as the old one so its easier to shut off
how would i do this if my pipes are galvanized not copper?
Timothy Champagne you need to find two threads in the area of the old valve , so the old valve will unscrew that’s one thread than you have to replace the pipe down to the next thread in line. Once you have two threads than you screw on a thread ball valve , they are the best valve out there and they work for your lifetime, second go to the second thread and screw on a copper female adapter with a piece of copper already soldered
Into the adapter, and than screw a copper male adapter into the house side of new valve with a piece of copper soldered onto that fitting also and you want your two new pieces of copper that are not threaded to butt up against each other , than just put a copper coupler on the ends of the new copper and solder that last fitting.
Many old houses have galvanized steel supply lines well before copper was common practice. When possible (access and financial means), it's best to replace all of the old pipes because the old pipes will rust up and give you hard water and rust stains as they age. You just have to make sure you use a brass or dielectric connection between the old and new pipes or you'll have a bad time (bad chemical reactions between zinc and copper)
Timothy Champagne galvanized pipe doesn’t rust that’s why it’s acceptable to use for potable water.
Daniel Gordon didn’t you ever learn the difference between then and than?
NonyaBusiness! Lots of older houses have galvanized iron water supply lines. Before the days of copper and pex
And of course of valves under every fixture
why not opt for a ball valve andmake it a sharkbite?
Oops, can we discuss the dangers of over tightening? Also, can we check for leaks before ending the video?
Aren't the pipes on opposite sides of the new valve pulling outward? Long term will that unseat the ferrell seals?
compression fittings are fine if done correctly...make sure they are accessible and not hidden in walls etc.. and make sure pipes are well supported and not flapping around..wont have problems.
I would put a little pipe tread sealer on all ferrules for a little added measure. You can also put it on Teflon tape.
Thank god all the water was shut off.
I hope my CHANNEL one day be like yours .
Thanks 👍
Wow that's how it was done in 2014
Interesting that they didn't stress to shut off the water at the street first... someone is going to try this without doing that... and then they'll realize that (A) they don't know where the street shut off is, or (B) they don't have the tool to close the valve there.
Is it just me, or does this guy look like James Dyson?
ALSO THATS THE STANGEST THING WHY CUT THE COPPER LINE IF YOU COULD EASILY USED A TORCH OR HEAT GUN TO MELT THE SOLDER AND SLIP OFF THE BALL VALVE
The operative word is "easily." If he could of easily de-soldered the valve, then he could of easily soldered on a new one. I think he was showing an option for the homeowner. If that compression valve needs replacing in the future, it's a big deal getting those ferrules off. They require a special tool.
he did not explain why he points the handle up
preference
so that the waste valve would not completely drain the pipe. maybe not such a good idea.
Yes Richard I would like to know why you put the valve up and the waist up instead of the waist down like how it was originally. I'm sure you have a good reason I just can't think of it so please enlighten me if you will. Thank you
Steve Kunkel when you place the valve handle down it increases the chance of debris settling in the valve which could potentially cause the valve to not close when needed. However in this situation since he used a shutoff that has the drain on it, placing the valve handle upwards renders the drain useless. Placing it on the side usually makes it so little to no debris settles in the valve, and then the drain would work the way it were designed.
Why not use a shark bite valve faster
Because sharkbites are not meant to be permanent
how many teeth per inch should the minihacksaw have to cut through the copper pipe?
it is often best to have several teeth of the saw engage the cross section you are cutting. for the relatively thin copper pipe this would require many teeth per inch. 32 might be close, but if you cant find one that fine use as many as you can get.