Thank you sir. My dad is an incredibly capable man and could have had this done about as good as any pro, but I have to know exactly what is being done and why before I’m comfortable attempting something like this. God bless the man, he’s handy as can be, but an awful teacher. Thank you for explaining how the new valve worked.
And in the event that you tighten the nut / feral area / shut off valve on the pipe and you still get a small drip / leak, what product do you recommend to suppress the leak? Plumbing dope? Silicon? @@getitdonehomerepair
What is the orientation of the farrell? How do I know what size valve I need? How do I measure it? My water shut off goes into a copper pipe. Do I need a valve with dual farrels? Thanks!
The ferrule doesn’t have a proper “orientation”; it’s the same on both ends, a plain ring slightly sloped on each edge. There are pipe sizer tools you can buy, but copper pipe comes in a few standard “nominal” sizes like 1/2” or 1”. If you don’t mind a few trips to the store you can cut the pipe first, then bring the cut off piece when buying the valve, to make sure it’s correct. The other part to measure is the OTHER end, which is probably connected to a flexible braided water supply line, which also comes in a few different standard sizes like 3/8” or 1/2”. Again, you can detach that existing braided line (it simply screws on the to faucet assembly) and bring it to the store as well. 3/8” is pretty common for sinks, but other sizes exist. A valve will typically be sold as a set with compression fittings on both ends, but if the other end is going to a braided supply line instead of another length of copper pipe, you don’t use it; discard the prepackaged ferrule and nut, and just screw the braided supply line directly into the valve. Hope this helps!
Most of the time when replacing a quarter turn valve of ball valve you remove it. It’s failing so no need to keep it. Open the Sheetrock up and do it right. Easy patch work.
Thank you sir. My dad is an incredibly capable man and could have had this done about as good as any pro, but I have to know exactly what is being done and why before I’m comfortable attempting something like this. God bless the man, he’s handy as can be, but an awful teacher. Thank you for explaining how the new valve worked.
You can do it!
Thanks, very informative and good speed
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This is an awesome explanation, perfect for adding valves under my sinks and to my toilets! Thank you!
Thanks Pal!
Great job and saved me a service call and getting ripped off
Glad I could help
Thank you for sharing this video. Very informative and helpful.
You are so welcome!
oops.. guess I should have waited until the end of your video before I jumped on my question!! thank you
This is great, i have to add shutoffs to my bathroom and this helps so much! thanks!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Super clear. Thanks for the help!
You're welcome!
And in the event that you tighten the nut / feral area / shut off valve on the pipe and you still get a small drip / leak, what product do you recommend to suppress the leak? Plumbing dope? Silicon? @@getitdonehomerepair
Thanks brotha. Gonna do this today with confidence. 🤟🏼
You got this!
@@getitdonehomerepair can u take these off too?? i just need a shutoff while im using these pipes for bathroom , cant do them all in one day
Thanks for sharing this knowledge. I appreciate it.
Glad it was helpful!
put a couple of drops of WD-40 on the threads before tightening. will make it easier to tighten nut.
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Great video thanks!
You're welcome!
Thank you 😅
You're welcome!
Thanks!
You bet!
What is the orientation of the farrell? How do I know what size valve I need? How do I measure it? My water shut off goes into a copper pipe. Do I need a valve with dual farrels? Thanks!
The ferrule doesn’t have a proper “orientation”; it’s the same on both ends, a plain ring slightly sloped on each edge.
There are pipe sizer tools you can buy, but copper pipe comes in a few standard “nominal” sizes like 1/2” or 1”. If you don’t mind a few trips to the store you can cut the pipe first, then bring the cut off piece when buying the valve, to make sure it’s correct. The other part to measure is the OTHER end, which is probably connected to a flexible braided water supply line, which also comes in a few different standard sizes like 3/8” or 1/2”. Again, you can detach that existing braided line (it simply screws on the to faucet assembly) and bring it to the store as well. 3/8” is pretty common for sinks, but other sizes exist.
A valve will typically be sold as a set with compression fittings on both ends, but if the other end is going to a braided supply line instead of another length of copper pipe, you don’t use it; discard the prepackaged ferrule and nut, and just screw the braided supply line directly into the valve. Hope this helps!
what is the green shut off handle doing? why two shutoffs?
7:25
Most of the time when replacing a quarter turn valve of ball valve you remove it. It’s failing so no need to keep it. Open the Sheetrock up and do it right. Easy patch work.
Next time=Better center focus on video please!