Always deburr the pipe before installing a SharkBite fitting. Also, when dealing with copper pipe and non-conductive brass SharkBite fittings, it's a good idea to install grounding clamps connected by a copper wire on opposite sides of the new fitting to ensure good grounding, which prevents possible shock and preserves the integrity of the copper pipe.
10 years later I also noticed the grounding clamp and these Sharkbite connectors are breaking that ground so need to have a ground strap bridging them!!
This video was great and it helped me replace the 30 year old shutoff valves without having to call the $75 and hour plumber. No leaks...shark bite fittings rock! Thanks for the video and helping me build my plumbing confidence!
I installed one of these a couple of years ago so I could take off the outdoor faucet and put new siding on. I just now reinstated a new outdoor faucet. I was amazed how the shutoff never leaked in two years just hanging by itself. I slid the old pipe right in and heard a click. What a product. I'm impressed.
You do a great job of making a how-to video. No extraneous nonsense. Not to fast. Clear explanations. I didn't have any questions because you were thorough. Thank you. Subscribing.
Thank you very taking the time to post a video. If I may, copper should (must) always be cleaned with emery cloth and deburred prior to attaching this type (or soldering) a connector to ensure a tight seal. The way you showed may not leak, but why chance it for a few extra seconds of work? Again, thank you for this helpful video.
Thanks. I used your procedure almost to the button and used exactly same fittings. I'm amazed these types of fittings work so well without a single drop of leaks. They are pricey but worth it. I used mine for a replacement 3/4" water main valve. The ball type valves are so much more reliable. Plus I saved myself a good $250+ calling a plumber.
Thank you so much for this video. Being a woman (and not being able to afford Mr. Darren below!) I can do this quick fix. I will follow all the advice below also. Plumbers are more expensive than financial planners with half the education. You should see the house my plumber lives in. We've been had. Thanks guys and I'm from Pittsburgh too.
Thanks for making this video. There are so many instructions out there for how to do a new install with shark bite. Yours was the first I came across which shows how to replace a valve, which is exactly what I need to do!
You should ALWAYS deburr both the inside and outside of the pipe end. Failure to do that may allow a burr to nick the sealing gasket. Also, DONT sandpaper the pipe end like you would for soldering. You want a smooth seating surface for the gasket.
well was a little skeptical because I always "sweated" my connections but after talking with some knowledgeable folks I bought a sharkbite shut off valve for a 1/2 in line. So being skeptical I had buckets at ready in case of a leak. I shut off the main water valve then went and turned on faucets to drain the lines as much as possible ( hint I left the lines open so gravity would drain them when I cut the line to install the valve) . I used a tubing cutter because having no burr on the end you are going to put the sharkbite on is vital to proper fitment and sealing - - I had a small splash of water come out but really it was next to nothing. One other step I should point out I used a fine emory cloth sandpaper and cleaned a good 2 inches of copper in the area I was going to cut because just like soldering a joint you want the area as clean as possible. I also used the emory after I made the cut specifically on the cut edge to make sure there were no burrs. I put a 1 inch mark on the line for a guide as to how deep the sharkbite fitting should go to seat properly and pushed it in place. Again being a skeptic I left a bucket there just in case and then went upstairs to shut all the faucets. I went back downstairs and turned the main valve on with eyes fixed on the new shut off valve and not one drop of water dripped. This line I'm installing the shut off on is for my water heater that died and the old valve on it didn't work so I couldn't drain it to remove it - - the heater had been in the house since at least the late 70s so I can't complain about it finally giving up the ghost in 2018 ( an old stone lined 80 gal tank). I mention that because today's water heaters have a fairly close standard for hook up lines but that old one had the cold in at the bottom of the tank so I have some line work to do. One other caution any time you shut off your main be sure to run all the faucets because when the pressure is forced through drained lines accumulated dirt/debris will be dislodged so run them to make sure you get a clean flow. Remember to pull your pants up when working on water lines and bending over - - "plumber's crack" needs to be eradicated - - good luck with your DIYs
2021 and I am doing the same thing as shown in the video and because the valve was installed in 1995. There is discolorations of the copper as well as a "label" that I would have to remove. I was going to use emery tape and sand the pipe. But was afraid of the scratches that would be left and would cause for a poor gasket or "O' ring seal. So I tried some very fine steel wool and it shined up the copper and removed the label and any glue. It also left the pipe smooth.
I live in an 1892 house,and have replaced about 95% of the plumbing in my home,with PVC drain and CPVC water lines.All CPVC lines are connected with SharkBite push fit connectors,and not one leak in 10 years. I am very happy with the SharkBite products. The Only thing i don't like is that there expensive.
bingobongo445 It is pricey but much less than plumbers and great for those of us who never learned soldering of copper pipe. My problem now is that my hands have arthritis and I don't have strength in them.
Too bad I didn't see this video earlier! I just replace a valve and actually removed some clamps holding the main pipe to move the pipe so I could accommodate a compression valve. I know it's not good to add stress on the main line. Thanks for the video.
I've been using SharkBites for several years and haven't had a leak yet. SharkBites are very dependable. Just make sure you push the fitting into the pipe by 1 inch and test for leaks. You'll be very pleased and if you need extra help just visit the SharkBite website
Thanks Brian, I've fiddled with this kind of setup before and had some issues. The slip fitting just makes is so much easier and faster to complete. Hope you had a great day.
In my experience, I believe it is impossible without the use of a slip coupler. I tried using Sharkbite straight couplers on each end of a replacement piece of PEX, thinking that PEX would be flexible enough that I could slide each end into a fitting. [And the "official" Sharkbite videos never address this issue.] But it has never cucceeded, so I had to use either CPVC or copper and a slip coupling on one end. Be sure to note --- and Sharkbite DOES mention this, but does not stress it --- the slip couplings are intended for use ONLY on copper or CPVC ... not on PEX or "regular" PVC. The straight couplings work on nearly anything, but the slip coupling REQUIRES copper or CPVC [or, one of each on each end, of course].
Great video but I have a question about your process as I am going to be doing the same thing in my basement. Why did you cut off such a large section of the copper. I was just planing on cutting as close to the ends of the ball valve so the sharkbite fitting would go in place and click in.
When replacing a "middle" section, whether with more pipe or with a valve, at least one connection requires the "slip coupling", so enough room is needed for it, as well as the one-inch insertion on each end of the slip coupling.
Just had a water heater go bad, thanks to your video I pit a shutoff on the tank feed, and I still have cold water until I repair it. And thanks to you I am confident to instal a new tank by myself.
I've used SharkBites for the last few years and haven't had any issues with leaks. They're really reliable and it several rental homes we have here in Pittsburgh. Hope that answers you question ;)
Thanks for this video. I had the same situation and your video helped me get through it in about 20 minutes of actual work (not counting trips to Home Depot...) :)
Great video. Had a frozen pipe burst this afternoon. Was able to use the slip end fitting to replace the cracked section of pipe. Will need to replace a bit of insulation and patch up the wall I had to cut, but thankfully I was able to access the pipe from the garage so that repair won't need to be as pretty as my new pipe section. (Got the fitting at Lowe's for a few bucks.Pro-Line brand.)
Sorry to hear about your frozen pipe Pierre Becquey - good job fixing it yourself. I think slip on fittings are good for pipes you can access. Especially if you're in a hurry and don't have soldering supplies on hand. Thanks for letting me know about your successful pipe repair :D
Hi, I have been using sharkbites for several years now, and they are great in a simple fix situation. I wouldn't use them for a main water shut off like some one else mentioned, but still fantastic for a homeowner who likes to tackle things them selves. My concern for Pierre Becquey, one day I couldn't get what I needed at Homedepot, where sharkbites are sold, and went to Lowes to buy their alternative product. I found the Lowes product did not work nearly as well as the Sharkbites. They are larger, harder to attach and did not make a good seal. I promptly returned the Lowes equivalent and bought a Sharkbite fitting. I don't know if anything has changed since that was a few years ago, but I would stick with Sharkbite. I terms of push fit fittings, they are the name brand and anything else you are taking a chance with.
Thanks Hillel Sims for sharing your experience, it's good to know that SharkBites are still working well for you, too. They're a great option for any DIYer :D
I love shark bites. Last week I replaced all of the water piping in my house from galvanized steel to copper and used shark bites to connect everything behind my walls. Supposedly they are built to last decades so I should be good. I saved thousands of dollars by not hiring a greedy plumber by doing it on my own. I showed my wife who the handyman of the house is later that night ;)
Jeff, your style is so easy to watch and understand. Thank you so much!!! Wife and I Cant wait to get started on our home project. Us DIY'ers really appreciate the simple and clear delivery. Much appreciated. GO SharkBite!!!
super system, you can remove the sharkbite to add additional lines for laundry, baths, etc. The spinning everyone panics about is a plus not negative, it spins since it is easy to remove and connect other branch lines.
Thanks h voso - I agree with you. SharkBites are pretty cool. Of course there's nothing wrong with soldered joints but sometimes this is a bit simpler for open walls.
Great video. One thing people should know is if you were to remove the shark bite fittings say a year from now, they are not to be reused. There is a rubber gasket inside that may get damaged from repeated removals. I also has to remove one shark bite fitting that was 4 years old and had a heck of a time removing it.
+Dennis M does the rubber wear out if you dont remove it? I want do this to some old round handled shut offs that are stripped but I do not want to have to replace every few years? Also i need to add a new shut off to my main and am wondering if these shar bites will hold up?
+Mike Carrington ........I am old school, I never had a sweated joint fail. My father re-pipped his entire house in 1972 and I sold it when he died in 2011 and never had any leak issues. I would only use a shark bite fitting if the pipe was easily accessible (not behind walls) and the cost of replacing it was not a concern.
+Mike Carrington The rubber does not wear out but it can dry out over time. As I said mine was only 4 years old and it was really hard for me to get off. I've worked on cars all my life and rubber fitting eventually dry out and that is a fact......if you don't believe me take few elastic bands and put them in a drawer for 3 years.....then see how brittle they are. Shark bite has been around for maybe 10 years and perhaps they will last but they are not infallible. I've never seen a sweat joint fail unless it froze or sustained a hard blow to it. I remember reading the fitting are not to be reused....
+Mike Carrington If you insist on using shark bites my only suggestion is use a fine emery cloth and sand the pipe. Like solder you need a clean joint....sand till its a nice smooth finish and remover any old solder that is on there if it exists.
I just used Sharkbite fittings for the first time today and it was super easy. Works like you would expect it too. The fittings, in my case an angled 1/2 x 3/8 shutoff valve, spin. Can be annoying but how often do you need to touch your fitting? 10/10 for me.
Thanks zedac0sta - the spinning is one aspect that is indeed annoying. But like you said, how often do we tough the fittings and it doesn't matter in most cases. Glad you found the video helpful.
I had main shutoff valve leak in crawl space. I bought ball shutoff sharkbyte valve to threaded end. Added a adapter brass to hose end . Used hose clamps once the hose was pressed into the brass barbed fitting and the fitting screwed into the other side on ball valve. Used plumpers thread tape. . The value is above ground flush with the water regulator. The sharkbyte valve does not touch the ground! . The old valve was 80 percent blocked because previous owner used copper and iron fitting. Always use brass on copper. Not metal on copper. 3 years later still holding. It's in dirt area under crawl space near foundation where it's not going to cause water damage if it leaks. I should get plumber to replace shutoff valve with a soldered one. I have to go under crawl space twice a year to shut off outside spout in winter to prevent freezing and turn it on in spring. I always check the ball valve for any leaks. To be safe I might install a small lcd camera pointing at it to check it randomly. I have to pay for water by usage so a slow leak can cost $$$. I even shut my water main off did the work and turned back on. When it was leaking it was scary as this valve was the last valve to town outside shutoff valve embedded in my lawn. I built a tool and made a video how to shutoff your water if you have those small blue ones with narrow access port on your lawn. I made tool so I dont have to wait for town to show up if this sharkbyte valve blows out. I can shut valve off right away. When they put in new hot water heater they use these fittings on the pipe at top water heater. I would not use these inside walls. Only where you can visually see them. If ball valve leaks it will leak into the ground. Not my floor boards, walls. So damage would be minimal.
you WILL have to use the splice like in this video if you are putting the shut off in existing system / retrofitting. the plumbing that is already existing is already cut and soldered in place and there is usually NO room to spread the pipes far enough apart to put the shut off in. therefore you will have to cut the pipe further up or down and put the splice in. only way to do it using the "sharkbite" (name brand) fittings. Homedepot and Lowes have these fittings. one carries "sharkbite" fittings and the other carries the fittings under a different "name brand" all the same FYI
HarryKnows i think his single unit would have been even better just cut much closer to the old shut off and replace with the 1 shark bite. now sure why he had to cut so far from the valve but maybe he will comment. Ive used them and they hold well even over time, what i didnt know is they now come with a valve. Thumbs Up!
Just had a plumber from a popular national chain install one replacing my faulted main water shut off valve. Replaced it with a Shark Bite shut off lever. I sure hope this thing works. The guy says there great and has been doing plumbing for over 20 years. Sigh......
Should have buffed that cut end with a green 3M pad, for a Sharkbite that end needs to be absolutely smooth so the o-ring in the Sharkbite doesn't get nicked at all. Otherwise the Sharkbite can fail. Sharkbite or solder, the pipe needs to be reamed and any possible burr sanded off.
I am no expert . But in addition , if the pipe is not properly debured , it will cause turbulence inside the pipe . Over time , it will create holes in the pipe and cause premature failure . A lot of shortcuts " work " - but they may fail . It only takes a moment to do a better job . It's worse to see a pro do it in a video . These are basics . They should know better . But do they care ?
Missed two important steps. 1. Thoroughly clean off the pipe 2. Use the Sharkbite reaming tool to remove any burrs and make sure the pipe end is square. Failure to do this can result in damage to the rubber o-ring which will cause leaks
I don't know Jon Hobgood but I haven't had any issues with SharkBites and it's 4 years and counting. So time will tell. No doubt solder is great but I'm even rethinking the use of copper. PEX is what I'm currently using for small repair jobs.
You could of just use a slip in shot of valve by itself with this much movement in the pipe. Normally a good idea is to clean and deburr the copper pipe ends before installing Sharkbite fittings. Its just a rubber o'ring seal that prevents the water from leaking. Great video though. Thanks
I have an idea for SharkBite, combine a slip joint connector with a shut off valve connector for when you don’t have the luxury of excessive pipe length to work with.
They make those, search for 24736LF..but I don't think this solves the problem. The parts would need to be long enough to replace the existing valve and I don't think they are. I'm currently in the same situation thinking it's ridiculous to need two parts to replace one
@@NevNiv I just installed two(2) Sharkbite slip joint ball valves for auxiliary shut offs to the clothes washer. You only need to remove 2" of pipe, then slip in one side and pull back to the other side.
Thanks Jeff, I learned somthing today. I'm old school, torch and solder. This looks good , also I'm glad to see no leaking. I need to learn about Pecks piping. I want to run Pecks tube from my water meter (in the lawn) to my home, all under ground. Any videos on this type of work?
for lines that just won't dry out, and the water keeps running, I use a flare tool. I use the flare tool at the 5/8" pipe setting and that works with 1/2" copper pipe. (I use a 'Rigid' brand flaring tool bought at Home Depot, it works better than the cheaper types sold elsewhere.) I first put a 5/8" flare nut onto the copper pipe, flare the end, then attach a 5/8" flare fitting that had a threaded end on the other side, and that is then connected to a threaded ball valve, or a threaded fitting that can be soldered to a copper pipe, or whatever else needs to be connected. I do these types of flare fittings on RIGID copper pipe, not the flexible types, and it works just fine. It costs a bit more money than SharkBite fittings but I don't trust SharkBites, not enough material there to hold in case the pipes freeze up.
Willilly Bab thanks for your great tips. I love ***** as well. One time my impact driver was acting up and I took it to get repaired. Turns out lithium battery died. Since the battery was under a Lifetime warranty I got one for free. Yep, that's why I love my Ridgid power tools :D
Pipes/fittings are never made to have water freeze in them. If they can freeze, the water should be drained. I don't care what you are using for plumbing--freezing pipes are a recipe for disaster.
My old customers still prefer copper for exiting repairs or new construction . Pex is the way to go Shark is good for hard to reach places. I don't use shark unless a customer request them no guarantee either.
Great Video........ as you were using copper you are allowed to pull out the internal support inserts in the sharkbite fittings, as these are in there to support CPVC and Pex piping..doesn't really make a difference just a slightly reduced flow because of these sleeves
Not sure if anyone mentioned, or you addressed the grounding wire that’s on your water pipe. You won’t get a ground through the SB connectors that you’ve installed, so be sure to move the ground to the supply side.
Son was remodeling the bathroom in his house..... on Christmas evening no less .... accidentally cracked the 1/2" copper pipe coming up from the floor to the toilet. water started spraying everywhere. Looked for the shut-off valve to the house. yeah, right., crawled under the house to look for a shut-off valve. none to be seen. called the emergency utility number. poor utility lady came out in the middle of her Christmas dinner to help locate the shut-off main at the street, of course buried under 5" of built-up sod - but eventually found it and turned it off. Bathroom floor area was soaking wet -- luckily it was being remodeled! Put some fans in to help circulate the air and dry off the subfloor. 1-1/2" of water in the crawlspace under the leaking area! Came out with soaking muddy pants and back to the house for our Christmas dinner. Water is shut off -- for now. Leak is stopped -- for now. And how was YOUR Christmas?? Long story short: Going to add a ball valve shut-off to the water main in the crawlspace!! Did not really want to do it "old school" and have to worry about draining the water pipes from the main and the copper pipes from the bathroom to solder the joint(s). I have used Sharkbite connectors in the past and was quite pleased with them. So I looked on TH-cam and found this video. Precise and to the point! Went to the hardware store today and got a 1/2" Sharkbite Max Push-to-Connect End Stop to plug the broken 1/2" copper pipe - after cutting a clean cut and deburring it, of course!! (not going to use that line anymore anyway. Will properly remove this line down the road. So for now, simply capped it). No need to worry about removing the insulation, draining the water out of the pipes, fluxing it, and blow-torching the floor beams by accident! Also got a 3/4" SharkBite Ball Valve and Slip Coupling to add a shut-off valve at the main line into the house - in similar fashion shown in this video. (While the water is still shut off). Great to have these options available. Lesson learned: NEVER attempt projects on a holiday!! P.S. I read about the possibility of "losing" a possible ground through the copper pipes if I add the ball valve and will probably add a copper wire bridge between the copper pipes.
I can only comment on my own experience, but I've been using them for the last 3 years with no issues. Now, with that said, my plumber has heard that they will last around 10 years or so. But this all depends on your water hardens, pressure, etc.
BTW, I watched a few of these videos & it is suggested NOT to use shark-bites connectors inside walls. Since shark-bites are a relatively new product there are some concerns. There is a rubber O-ring inside these connectors that may dry out from chlorine (in some waters) causing leaks. I suggest buying some "Jack's" lubricant which is used for swimming pool O-rings. Do NOT use a petrol based lubricant (Vaseline, etc.) on rubber. "Vaseline or other petroleum products should never be used on rubber or neoprene objects. It can deteriorate the rubber or neoprene very rapidly. The correct lube to use is a silicone based lubricant, which comes with or without Teflon. This is available in spa or pool stores." "Jack's Formula 327 Multilube, SP0327 by Hayward. Pool & Spa lubricant for o-rings and threads on pool equipment." I would presume, if one's water contains chlorine one would use Jack's....if needed in these shark-bites. ????????????????????
OrbitGumdude, trust in modern technology. My son used some of these Sharkbite products and I was skeptical as you are. It has been working for several years now. Not to worry.
These fitting types are revolutionizing the plumbing industry. Now, plumbers must stock various assortments of these SharkBite fittings in their trucks.
Maria Alvarez thanks for you question because it's a good one. They're perfect. I've been using SharkBites for 4 years with no leaks. Of course you'll want to check if your local code allows them but I'm convinced they're a great option.
These fitting should always be used when close to wood rafters, studs, or joists as in this video. This method may cost more in fittings (and in some states is required by building codes) however, these fittings do not require soldering with a propane torch. Soldering could burn the wood and has the potential to leave a smoldering ember in the burnt wood, this ember can and has ignited a house fire hours after the soldering was completed.
Good point. I scorched the wood a wee bit running new line to a tankless water heater. I then went and got an oatey cloth and used it to finish all the other soldering I had to do. Final connections were completed with sharkbite cut-off valves.
There is a special flameproof material/pad you should use to solder close to something flammable. However, if you have a valve or fitting close to wall and you solder, what happens if the valve fails? With Sharkbite, you just use the removal tool and put a new one on. With a soldered connection, if there isn't enough room left to trim more line off, you have to break into the wall. Another advantage using Sharkbite.
Awesome John, that's a huge bummer about your hot water tank :( It's cool that you didn't lose all your house water and can flush toilets. Water is both a blessing and liability at times!!
Did you have to cut copper pipe off? Could you have just cut out other valve at the ends and placed sharkbite in between without adding new piece of coppet?
A skilled craftsman, Mark Knight, showed me how to solder. Not difficult to learn. I have soldered a few copper fittings since and never had a leak. Yes the "trades" and methods evolve, possibly too slowly, cost is a important factor. What was wrong with your valve that could not easily be fixed?
Sharkbite fittings are AMAZING, I just love them. but if you install them where there is any bending-stress in the pipe, they will leak after a few years. Plus some people find that Sharkbite leaks at areas of constant extreme heat, so don't use them within 3 feet of your water heater itself.
This product does not work on existing pipes. After slipping one end on and the other half way on, it would not go the rest of the way on, and it would not come off. Yes, thankyou, I did use the little tool, in fact I tried one on each end. After several calls to Sharkbite customer service I was told that some of the older copper pipe 'might' not work with this. Thanks for telling me that up front. Since I was working on the main water line and the house was without water, I had to call someone to help. The part had to be cut out and pex line was put in. The best way to express my experience with this product is what he said on the way out... trying to use SharkBite on existing pipes is an absolute disaster!
Kay, I had the same issue while doing a pinhole leak repair with a SharkBite slip fitting on 3/4" copper pipe that was installed in 1961. I was working under the floor of the house and had to sand the area until the oxidized copper was shiny like a new pipe before the SharkBite would fully slip on and then slide backwards to fit properly. To get the fitting off when it got stuck the first time, I used Channellock pliers up against the release tool with a hammer to smack the fitting off the pipe.
Good vid. I THINK YOU MIGHT HAVE HAD ENOUGH PIPE, IF YOU JUST CUT OUT THE OLD SHUT OFF VALVE . THE SHARK VALVE TOOK UP ABOUT THE SAME AMOUNT OF ROOM . GOOD VIDEO THOUGH.
The copper pipe seemed to have enough flex and movement in it that you could’ve got away with just a regular coupling versus using the slip repair coupling.
Since you had at least 1" of movement in the pipe you could have just cut the pipe close to the old valve and just used the shark bite valve to make the connection and saved the slip end fitting
Thanks for making and sharing this video with us Jeff. My question for you is how can you be 100% certain that where the Sharkbite fittings join the copper pipes will not leak or burst for reasons that you cannot foresee now? Let's say you leave for vacation for 1 - 2 weeks and does not shutoff the main switch, what would you do if you come back and find your house immersed in water? I find Sharkbite an attractive alternative than expensive plumbers, but what if ...? This is my main concern.
Thanks Eric Dunn for your concerns and question. I understand your fear and trust me I hate water leaks just as much as you. With several rentals and my own house to worry about I want to limit the risk of water damage. I've been using SharkBites for the last 3 years and haven't had any problems with leaks. My own plumber has brought up his concerns that push on fittings will only last 10 years or so. You can use the what if scenario with compression and sweated fittings, too. What if the nut on the compression fitting wasn't tightened enough or too much? What if the sweated shutoff valve has a small leak? I've learned to live with these risks, test my push on fittings rigorously, and shutoff the water before vacationing. But overall, I like them a lot and haven't seen one fail yet. But I'll keep you posted :)
Always deburr the pipe before installing a SharkBite fitting. Also, when dealing with copper pipe and non-conductive brass SharkBite fittings, it's a good idea to install grounding clamps connected by a copper wire on opposite sides of the new fitting to ensure good grounding, which prevents possible shock and preserves the integrity of the copper pipe.
10 years later I also noticed the grounding clamp and these Sharkbite connectors are breaking that ground so need to have a ground strap bridging them!!
wouldn't the water inside be conductive to transfer from copper to the other copper pipe?
I'm not being smart, just curious.
@@ryanbrophy8814 Interesting that the shutoff doesn't have a drain on it like the old one did.
This video was great and it helped me replace the 30 year old shutoff valves without having to call the $75 and hour plumber. No leaks...shark bite fittings rock! Thanks for the video and helping me build my plumbing confidence!
awesome, hope all the tips help with other projects!
I installed one of these a couple of years ago so I could take off the outdoor faucet and put new siding on. I just now reinstated a new outdoor faucet. I was amazed how the shutoff never leaked in two years just hanging by itself. I slid the old pipe right in and heard a click. What a product. I'm impressed.
That's amazing a pipe fitting that hasn't leaked in TWO years.
You do a great job of making a how-to video. No extraneous nonsense. Not to fast. Clear explanations. I didn't have any questions because you were thorough. Thank you. Subscribing.
I did same exact thing yesterday with 3/4" shut off valve and 3/4" sleeve and it worked like a champ!
Thank you very taking the time to post a video. If I may, copper should (must) always be cleaned with emery cloth and deburred prior to attaching this type (or soldering) a connector to ensure a tight seal. The way you showed may not leak, but why chance it for a few extra seconds of work? Again, thank you for this helpful video.
Thanks. I used your procedure almost to the button and used exactly same fittings. I'm amazed these types of fittings work so well without a single drop of leaks. They are pricey but worth it. I used mine for a replacement 3/4" water main valve. The ball type valves are so much more reliable. Plus I saved myself a good $250+ calling a plumber.
Used this for the first time and am absolutely amazed at how well it works.
Thank you so much for this video. Being a woman (and not being able to afford Mr. Darren below!) I can do this quick fix. I will follow all the advice below also. Plumbers are more expensive than financial planners with half the education. You should see the house my plumber lives in. We've been had. Thanks guys and I'm from Pittsburgh too.
What a great tool, none of the screw down type that sticks up so far! Excellento!
Thanks for making this video. There are so many instructions out there for how to do a new install with shark bite. Yours was the first I came across which shows how to replace a valve, which is exactly what I need to do!
You should ALWAYS deburr both the inside and outside of the pipe end. Failure to do that may allow a burr to nick the sealing gasket. Also, DONT sandpaper the pipe end like you would for soldering. You want a smooth seating surface for the gasket.
sooooo...what do you do for painted pipe?
well was a little skeptical because I always "sweated" my connections but after talking with some knowledgeable folks I bought a sharkbite shut off valve for a 1/2 in line. So being skeptical I had buckets at ready in case of a leak. I shut off the main water valve then went and turned on faucets to drain the lines as much as possible ( hint I left the lines open so gravity would drain them when I cut the line to install the valve) . I used a tubing cutter because having no burr on the end you are going to put the sharkbite on is vital to proper fitment and sealing - - I had a small splash of water come out but really it was next to nothing. One other step I should point out I used a fine emory cloth sandpaper and cleaned a good 2 inches of copper in the area I was going to cut because just like soldering a joint you want the area as clean as possible. I also used the emory after I made the cut specifically on the cut edge to make sure there were no burrs. I put a 1 inch mark on the line for a guide as to how deep the sharkbite fitting should go to seat properly and pushed it in place. Again being a skeptic I left a bucket there just in case and then went upstairs to shut all the faucets. I went back downstairs and turned the main valve on with eyes fixed on the new shut off valve and not one drop of water dripped. This line I'm installing the shut off on is for my water heater that died and the old valve on it didn't work so I couldn't drain it to remove it - - the heater had been in the house since at least the late 70s so I can't complain about it finally giving up the ghost in 2018 ( an old stone lined 80 gal tank). I mention that because today's water heaters have a fairly close standard for hook up lines but that old one had the cold in at the bottom of the tank so I have some line work to do. One other caution any time you shut off your main be sure to run all the faucets because when the pressure is forced through drained lines accumulated dirt/debris will be dislodged so run them to make sure you get a clean flow. Remember to pull your pants up when working on water lines and bending over - - "plumber's crack" needs to be eradicated - - good luck with your DIYs
2021 and I am doing the same thing as shown in the video and because the valve was installed in 1995. There is discolorations of the copper as well as a "label" that I would have to remove. I was going to use emery tape and sand the pipe. But was afraid of the scratches that would be left and would cause for a poor gasket or "O' ring seal. So I tried some very fine steel wool and it shined up the copper and removed the label and any glue. It also left the pipe smooth.
I live in an 1892 house,and have replaced about 95% of the plumbing in my home,with PVC drain and CPVC water lines.All CPVC lines are connected with SharkBite push fit connectors,and not one leak in 10 years. I am very happy with the SharkBite products. The Only thing i don't like is that there expensive.
bingobongo445 It is pricey but much less than plumbers and great for those of us who never learned soldering of copper pipe. My problem now is that my hands have arthritis and I don't have strength in them.
Too bad I didn't see this video earlier! I just replace a valve and actually removed some clamps holding the main pipe to move the pipe so I could accommodate a compression valve. I know it's not good to add stress on the main line. Thanks for the video.
I've been using SharkBites for several years and haven't had a leak yet.
SharkBites are very dependable. Just make sure you push the fitting into the pipe by 1 inch and test for leaks.
You'll be very pleased and if you need extra help just visit the SharkBite website
Amanda Laschola just tell me what does not fail “eventually “
Thanks Brian, I've fiddled with this kind of setup before and had some issues. The slip fitting just makes is so much easier and faster to complete. Hope you had a great day.
In my experience, I believe it is impossible without the use of a slip coupler. I tried using Sharkbite straight couplers on each end of a replacement piece of PEX, thinking that PEX would be flexible enough that I could slide each end into a fitting. [And the "official" Sharkbite videos never address this issue.] But it has never cucceeded, so I had to use either CPVC or copper and a slip coupling on one end. Be sure to note --- and Sharkbite DOES mention this, but does not stress it --- the slip couplings are intended for use ONLY on copper or CPVC ... not on PEX or "regular" PVC. The straight couplings work on nearly anything, but the slip coupling REQUIRES copper or CPVC [or, one of each on each end, of course].
Great video but I have a question about your process as I am going to be doing the same thing in my basement. Why did you cut off such a large section of the copper. I was just planing on cutting as close to the ends of the ball valve so the sharkbite fitting would go in place and click in.
He didn't think he'd be able to reconnect without adding more pipe. I guess.
When replacing a "middle" section, whether with more pipe or with a valve, at least one connection requires the "slip coupling", so enough room is needed for it, as well as the one-inch insertion on each end of the slip coupling.
Just had a water heater go bad, thanks to your video I pit a shutoff on the tank feed, and I still have cold water until I repair it. And thanks to you I am confident to instal a new tank by myself.
Thanks for posting your video. After watching it I was able to add a shut off valve to a 1/2 line that supplies an outside faucet. Good Job.
I've used SharkBites for the last few years and haven't had any issues with leaks. They're really reliable and it several rental homes we have here in Pittsburgh. Hope that answers you question ;)
Thanks for this video. I had the same situation and your video helped me get through it in about 20 minutes of actual work (not counting trips to Home Depot...) :)
Great video. Had a frozen pipe burst this afternoon. Was able to use the slip end fitting to replace the cracked section of pipe. Will need to replace a bit of insulation and patch up the wall I had to cut, but thankfully I was able to access the pipe from the garage so that repair won't need to be as pretty as my new pipe section. (Got the fitting at Lowe's for a few bucks.Pro-Line brand.)
Sorry to hear about your frozen pipe Pierre Becquey - good job fixing it yourself. I think slip on fittings are good for pipes you can access. Especially if you're in a hurry and don't have soldering supplies on hand. Thanks for letting me know about your successful pipe repair :D
Hi, I have been using sharkbites for several years now, and they are great in a simple fix situation. I wouldn't use them for a main water shut off like some one else mentioned, but still fantastic for a homeowner who likes to tackle things them selves. My concern for Pierre Becquey, one day I couldn't get what I needed at Homedepot, where sharkbites are sold, and went to Lowes to buy their alternative product. I found the Lowes product did not work nearly as well as the Sharkbites. They are larger, harder to attach and did not make a good seal. I promptly returned the Lowes equivalent and bought a Sharkbite fitting. I don't know if anything has changed since that was a few years ago, but I would stick with Sharkbite. I terms of push fit fittings, they are the name brand and anything else you are taking a chance with.
Thanks Hillel Sims for sharing your experience, it's good to know that SharkBites are still working well for you, too. They're a great option for any DIYer :D
I love shark bites. Last week I replaced all of the water piping in my house from galvanized steel to copper and used shark bites to connect everything behind my walls. Supposedly they are built to last decades so I should be good. I saved thousands of dollars by not hiring a greedy plumber by doing it on my own. I showed my wife who the handyman of the house is later that night ;)
i just recently used this type of shutoff valve and so far all is good
Jeff, your style is so easy to watch and understand. Thank you so much!!! Wife and I Cant wait to get started on our home project. Us DIY'ers really appreciate the simple and clear delivery. Much appreciated. GO SharkBite!!!
This was 8 years ago, have you had any problems with the sharkbite? Thanks for the video 👍🏽.
OMG!!! THANK YOU YOUNG MAN! I LEARNED SO MUCH FROM YOU WITHIN 10 MINUTES, INTO MY BREAK TIME. THANKS GOD BLESS YOU! MERRY CHRISTMAS!
thank you!
just remember to debur your copper and properly set the fittings to the correct depth.
Wow I'm glad I seen this video cause I'm in prosses of doing this kitchen plumbing thank-you very much for this video.
super system, you can remove the sharkbite to add additional lines for laundry, baths, etc. The spinning everyone panics about is a plus not negative, it spins since it is easy to remove and connect other branch lines.
Thanks h voso - I agree with you. SharkBites are pretty cool. Of course there's nothing wrong with soldered joints but sometimes this is a bit simpler for open walls.
Thank you for the video. FYI: You could have saved the extra work and materials by only using the "Slip Ball Valve" (#152).
Great video. One thing people should know is if you were to remove the shark bite fittings say a year from now, they are not to be reused. There is a rubber gasket inside that may get damaged from repeated removals. I also has to remove one shark bite fitting that was 4 years old and had a heck of a time removing it.
+Dennis M does the rubber wear out if you dont remove it? I want do this to some old round handled shut offs that are stripped but I do not want to have to replace every few years? Also i need to add a new shut off to my main and am wondering if these shar bites will hold up?
+Mike Carrington ........I am old school, I never had a sweated joint fail. My father re-pipped his entire house in 1972 and I sold it when he died in 2011 and never had any leak issues. I would only use a shark bite fitting if the pipe was easily accessible (not behind walls) and the cost of replacing it was not a concern.
+Mike Carrington The rubber does not wear out but it can dry out over time. As I said mine was only 4 years old and it was really hard for me to get off. I've worked on cars all my life and rubber fitting eventually dry out and that is a fact......if you don't believe me take few elastic bands and put them in a drawer for 3 years.....then see how brittle they are. Shark bite has been around for maybe 10 years and perhaps they will last but they are not infallible. I've never seen a sweat joint fail unless it froze or sustained a hard blow to it. I remember reading the fitting are not to be reused....
+Mike Carrington If you insist on using shark bites my only suggestion is use a fine emery cloth and sand the pipe. Like solder you need a clean joint....sand till its a nice smooth finish and remover any old solder that is on there if it exists.
I just used Sharkbite fittings for the first time today and it was super easy. Works like you would expect it too.
The fittings, in my case an angled 1/2 x 3/8 shutoff valve, spin. Can be annoying but how often do you need to touch your fitting?
10/10 for me.
Thanks zedac0sta - the spinning is one aspect that is indeed annoying. But like you said, how often do we tough the fittings and it doesn't matter in most cases. Glad you found the video helpful.
I had main shutoff valve leak in crawl space. I bought ball shutoff sharkbyte valve to threaded end. Added a adapter brass to hose end . Used hose clamps once the hose was pressed into the brass barbed fitting and the fitting screwed into the other side on ball valve. Used plumpers thread tape. . The value is above ground flush with the water regulator. The sharkbyte valve does not touch the ground! . The old valve was 80 percent blocked because previous owner used copper and iron fitting. Always use brass on copper. Not metal on copper. 3 years later still holding. It's in dirt area under crawl space near foundation where it's not going to cause water damage if it leaks. I should get plumber to replace shutoff valve with a soldered one. I have to go under crawl space twice a year to shut off outside spout in winter to prevent freezing and turn it on in spring. I always check the ball valve for any leaks. To be safe I might install a small lcd camera pointing at it to check it randomly. I have to pay for water by usage so a slow leak can cost $$$. I even shut my water main off did the work and turned back on. When it was leaking it was scary as this valve was the last valve to town outside shutoff valve embedded in my lawn. I built a tool and made a video how to shutoff your water if you have those small blue ones with narrow access port on your lawn. I made tool so I dont have to wait for town to show up if this sharkbyte valve blows out. I can shut valve off right away. When they put in new hot water heater they use these fittings on the pipe at top water heater. I would not use these inside walls. Only where you can visually see them. If ball valve leaks it will leak into the ground. Not my floor boards, walls. So damage would be minimal.
This is exactly the work which I have to do in my house. Thanks a lot for this video. Very helpful and informative.
Glad to help you, I hope your project goes well. If you have any questions just let me know.
That was awesomely easy! Thanks guy!
You are the MAN!!!! I almost gave up because I couldnt figure out to slide fitting on.... I did it!!!!!
awesome, glad the video helped. What kind of repair were you doing?
Cold water supply line to bathroom sink with pinhole leak!
ugh, the worst. Glad you were able to fix it. Once it's learned the process is very simple. Great job
Thank you! You clearly explained how to use slip... it really made the difference. Thanks again!!
You need to DEBURR the copper pipe before you install sharkbite, if you don't do that, there is a chance that it might fail
You are correct....btc coins.....that was a critical missed step in this video. Excellent point made. Thank you for your observation and comment.
As long as the pipe cutting tool is sharp theres no need
Thanks for the video. I'll be heading to home depot to try this myself! :)
Excellent instructional video. Always wondered how one would accomplish this type of connection. Thank you.
Thanks, after doing it a few times it gets even easier
According to Sharkbite's own video you used the PEX fitting (mustard colored end). For copper you need to use the fittings with the black ends.
I wondered about using pex vs copper attachments too... no answer?
this can be used on copper, the plastic inside needs to be removed only if using copper and left inside for pex
Tan colored can be used with a variety, copper and pex are among the two.
THANK YOU SO MUCH! I was way over thinking replacing a water shutoff in my basement
+Joe G. Glad to help 👍
Awesome video thank you for taking the time to create this!
Thanks Steve and Jeff worked for me
Awesome! Great job
you WILL have to use the splice like in this video if you are putting the shut off in existing system / retrofitting. the plumbing that is already existing is already cut and soldered in place and there is usually NO room to spread the pipes far enough apart to put the shut off in. therefore you will have to cut the pipe further up or down and put the splice in. only way to do it using the "sharkbite" (name brand) fittings.
Homedepot and Lowes have these fittings. one carries "sharkbite" fittings and the other carries the fittings under a different "name brand" all the same FYI
HarryKnows i think his single unit would have been even better just cut much closer to the old shut off and replace with the 1 shark bite. now sure why he had to cut so far from the valve but maybe he will comment. Ive used them and they hold well even over time, what i didnt know is they now come with a valve. Thumbs Up!
Just had a plumber from a popular national chain install one replacing my faulted main water shut off valve. Replaced it with a Shark Bite shut off lever. I sure hope this thing works. The guy says there great and has been doing plumbing for over 20 years. Sigh......
Did it work bro?
@@vapemcvaperson It worked! No issues with it.
@@jamesd7154 Great, we're about to use one here. - Thanks 👍
That was cool who ever came out with this shark bite is a genius
Should have buffed that cut end with a green 3M pad, for a Sharkbite that end needs to be absolutely smooth so the o-ring in the Sharkbite doesn't get nicked at all. Otherwise the Sharkbite can fail. Sharkbite or solder, the pipe needs to be reamed and any possible burr sanded off.
I am no expert . But in addition , if the pipe is not properly debured , it will cause turbulence inside the pipe . Over time , it will create holes in the pipe and cause premature failure . A lot of shortcuts " work " - but they may fail . It only takes a moment to do a better job . It's worse to see a pro do it in a video . These are basics . They should know better . But do they care ?
Missed two important steps. 1. Thoroughly clean off the pipe 2. Use the Sharkbite reaming tool to remove any burrs and make sure the pipe end is square. Failure to do this can result in damage to the rubber o-ring which will cause leaks
Great video Jeff. FYI SharkBite now has slip ball valves, so you probably can do this same job without using the slipinfitting.
brotherjoeradosti sweet, thanks for letting me know that.
Jeff Patterson Sure Jeff.
Jeff Patterson jeff, do you think shark bite valves hold as long as soldered valves?
I don't know Jon Hobgood but I haven't had any issues with SharkBites and it's 4 years and counting. So time will tell. No doubt solder is great but I'm even rethinking the use of copper. PEX is what I'm currently using for small repair jobs.
You could of just use a slip in shot of valve by itself with this much movement in the pipe. Normally a good idea is to clean and deburr the copper pipe ends before installing Sharkbite fittings. Its just a rubber o'ring seal that prevents the water from leaking. Great video though. Thanks
This is a great video. It is explained so well it gives me the confidence to attempt this job myself. Great job.
Thanks dave mcc - I think you'll really like the SharkBites. Keep me posted.
Thank you! Excellent video. One of the best videos on plumbing. You explained it very well.
Thank you, happy it helped.
Hey Reagan,
Thanks for that tip. Copper is crazy expensive. Plus, nobody to my knowledge breaks into houses to steal plastic-LOL.
I have an idea for SharkBite, combine a slip joint connector with a shut off valve connector for when you don’t have the luxury of excessive pipe length to work with.
They make those, search for 24736LF..but I don't think this solves the problem. The parts would need to be long enough to replace the existing valve and I don't think they are. I'm currently in the same situation thinking it's ridiculous to need two parts to replace one
@@NevNiv I just installed two(2) Sharkbite slip joint ball valves for auxiliary shut offs to the clothes washer. You only need to remove 2" of pipe, then slip in one side and pull back to the other side.
Remind people to clean the burrs on the ends of all the pipe peaces
You have cut to ensure that the snake bites will work properly
Thanks Jeff, I learned somthing today. I'm old school, torch and solder. This looks good , also I'm glad to see no leaking. I need to learn about Pecks piping. I want to run Pecks tube from my water meter (in the lawn) to my home, all under ground. Any videos on this type of work?
Thanks Richard, I hope it helped you with your own project :)
for lines that just won't dry out, and the water keeps running, I use a flare tool. I use the flare tool at the 5/8" pipe setting and that works with 1/2" copper pipe. (I use a 'Rigid' brand flaring tool bought at Home Depot, it works better than the cheaper types sold elsewhere.) I first put a 5/8" flare nut onto the copper pipe, flare the end, then attach a 5/8" flare fitting that had a threaded end on the other side, and that is then connected to a threaded ball valve, or a threaded fitting that can be soldered to a copper pipe, or whatever else needs to be connected. I do these types of flare fittings on RIGID copper pipe, not the flexible types, and it works just fine. It costs a bit more money than SharkBite fittings but I don't trust SharkBites, not enough material there to hold in case the pipes freeze up.
Willilly Bab thanks for your great tips. I love ***** as well. One time my impact driver was acting up and I took it to get repaired. Turns out lithium battery died. Since the battery was under a Lifetime warranty I got one for free. Yep, that's why I love my Ridgid power tools :D
Pipes/fittings are never made to have water freeze in them. If they can freeze, the water should be drained. I don't care what you are using for plumbing--freezing pipes are a recipe for disaster.
My old customers still prefer copper for exiting repairs or new construction . Pex is the way to go Shark is good for hard to reach places. I don't use shark unless a customer request them no guarantee either.
Great Video........ as you were using copper you are allowed to pull out the internal support inserts in the sharkbite fittings, as these are in there to support CPVC and Pex piping..doesn't really make a difference just a slightly reduced flow because of these sleeves
I like the Pittsburgh Panthers trim. I live in the North Hills School district.
I am in Florida, so freezing is not an issue. Thanks 4 replying to my question. I will check You Tube. Thanks again.
Not sure if anyone mentioned, or you addressed the grounding wire that’s on your water pipe. You won’t get a ground through the SB connectors that you’ve installed, so be sure to move the ground to the supply side.
We addressed this in our written tutorial but you’re correct
I always replace old shut off valves when doing plumbing near it .
Son was remodeling the bathroom in his house..... on Christmas evening no less .... accidentally cracked the 1/2" copper pipe coming up from the floor to the toilet. water started spraying everywhere. Looked for the shut-off valve to the house. yeah, right., crawled under the house to look for a shut-off valve. none to be seen. called the emergency utility number. poor utility lady came out in the middle of her Christmas dinner to help locate the shut-off main at the street, of course buried under 5" of built-up sod - but eventually found it and turned it off. Bathroom floor area was soaking wet -- luckily it was being remodeled! Put some fans in to help circulate the air and dry off the subfloor. 1-1/2" of water in the crawlspace under the leaking area! Came out with soaking muddy pants and back to the house for our Christmas dinner. Water is shut off -- for now. Leak is stopped -- for now. And how was YOUR Christmas??
Long story short: Going to add a ball valve shut-off to the water main in the crawlspace!! Did not really want to do it "old school" and have to worry about draining the water pipes from the main and the copper pipes from the bathroom to solder the joint(s).
I have used Sharkbite connectors in the past and was quite pleased with them. So I looked on TH-cam and found this video. Precise and to the point! Went to the hardware store today and got a 1/2" Sharkbite Max Push-to-Connect End Stop to plug the broken 1/2" copper pipe - after cutting a clean cut and deburring it, of course!! (not going to use that line anymore anyway. Will properly remove this line down the road. So for now, simply capped it). No need to worry about removing the insulation, draining the water out of the pipes, fluxing it, and blow-torching the floor beams by accident! Also got a 3/4" SharkBite Ball Valve and Slip Coupling to add a shut-off valve at the main line into the house - in similar fashion shown in this video. (While the water is still shut off). Great to have these options available.
Lesson learned: NEVER attempt projects on a holiday!!
P.S. I read about the possibility of "losing" a possible ground through the copper pipes if I add the ball valve and will probably add a copper wire bridge between the copper pipes.
You deserve the highest level of "Man Card" for helping us all out!
+JackmanFlicks thanks, I love those fittings...figured I'd share 👍
They said good for 15 years because of rubber gasket but don't install inside in wall where you can't see in case of possible leaks
I can only comment on my own experience, but I've been using them for the last 3 years with no issues. Now, with that said, my plumber has heard that they will last around 10 years or so. But this all depends on your water hardens, pressure, etc.
If it leaks, after 25 years, you have a problem, and even if it leaks before.
Shark bite makes slip joint valves only need to buy one piece . They are great
It's been 10 years since this video. I wonder if it is still watertight.
Thanks a bunch. You just saved me from changing my piping to PVC.
BTW, I watched a few of these videos & it is suggested NOT to use shark-bites connectors inside walls. Since shark-bites are a relatively new product there are some concerns. There is a rubber O-ring inside these connectors that may dry out from chlorine (in some waters) causing leaks. I suggest buying some "Jack's" lubricant which is used for swimming pool O-rings. Do NOT use a petrol based lubricant (Vaseline, etc.) on rubber. "Vaseline or other petroleum products should never be used on rubber or neoprene objects. It can deteriorate the rubber or neoprene very rapidly. The correct lube to use is a silicone based lubricant, which comes with or without Teflon. This is available in spa or pool stores." "Jack's Formula 327 Multilube, SP0327 by Hayward. Pool & Spa lubricant for o-rings and threads on pool equipment." I would presume, if one's water contains chlorine one would use Jack's....if needed in these shark-bites. ????????????????????
OrbitGumdude, trust in modern technology. My son used some of these Sharkbite products and I was skeptical as you are. It has been working for several years now. Not to worry.
Thanks Greg Myers for letting us know that you've also had a good experience with the SharkBites.
These fitting types are revolutionizing the plumbing industry. Now, plumbers must stock various assortments of these SharkBite fittings in their trucks.
there are a ton of different options now, I like SharkBites but it's still good to learn how to solder. Although PEX is a great option as well.
there is another youtube video by this oldhouse on replacing a valve that i think may arguably be simpler.
Just used a few of these, they work fine but are about 10 times the cost of copper. I’d save them for areas where a torch won’t fit
Manufacturer stated 2" max gap for slip fittings... may want to note that on the video. You have much more than that.
after all this time, how good are those sharkbites working? thanks. good video
Maria Alvarez thanks for you question because it's a good one. They're perfect. I've been using SharkBites for 4 years with no leaks. Of course you'll want to check if your local code allows them but I'm convinced they're a great option.
These fitting should always be used when close to wood rafters, studs, or joists as in this video. This method may cost more in fittings (and in some states is required by building codes) however, these fittings do not require soldering with a propane torch. Soldering could burn the wood and has the potential to leave a smoldering ember in the burnt wood, this ember can and has ignited a house fire hours after the soldering was completed.
Good point. I scorched the wood a wee bit running new line to a tankless water heater. I then went and got an oatey cloth and used it to finish all the other soldering I had to do. Final connections were completed with sharkbite cut-off valves.
There is a special flameproof material/pad you should use to solder close to something flammable. However, if you have a valve or fitting close to wall and you solder, what happens if the valve fails? With Sharkbite, you just use the removal tool and put a new one on. With a soldered connection, if there isn't enough room left to trim more line off, you have to break into the wall. Another advantage using Sharkbite.
WOW !! .... inventors are amazing !!!
Awesome John, that's a huge bummer about your hot water tank :(
It's cool that you didn't lose all your house water and can flush toilets. Water is both a blessing and liability at times!!
Did you have to cut copper pipe off? Could you have just cut out other valve at the ends and placed sharkbite in between without adding new piece of coppet?
Great video to the point no advertisement crap. Vary helpful thx
A skilled craftsman, Mark Knight, showed me how to solder. Not difficult to learn. I have soldered a few copper fittings since and never had a leak. Yes the "trades" and methods evolve, possibly too slowly, cost is a important factor. What was wrong with your valve that could not easily be fixed?
H2P !!! - great video sir
forgot to mention you can interchange the tubing with sharkbite plastic tubing as well, cheaper than copper
Sharkbite fittings are AMAZING, I just love them. but if you install them where there is any bending-stress in the pipe, they will leak after a few years. Plus some people find that Sharkbite leaks at areas of constant extreme heat, so don't use them within 3 feet of your water heater itself.
This product does not work on existing pipes. After slipping one end on and the other half way on, it would not go the rest of the way on, and it would not come off. Yes, thankyou, I did use the little tool, in fact I tried one on each end. After several calls to Sharkbite customer service I was told that some of the older copper pipe 'might' not work with this. Thanks for telling me that up front. Since I was working on the main water line and the house was without water, I had to call someone to help. The part had to be cut out and pex line was put in. The best way to express my experience with this product is what he said on the way out... trying to use SharkBite on existing pipes is an absolute disaster!
Kay, I had the same issue while doing a pinhole leak repair with a SharkBite slip fitting on 3/4" copper pipe that was installed in 1961. I was working under the floor of the house and had to sand the area until the oxidized copper was shiny like a new pipe before the SharkBite would fully slip on and then slide backwards to fit properly. To get the fitting off when it got stuck the first time, I used Channellock pliers up against the release tool with a hammer to smack the fitting off the pipe.
Good vid. I THINK YOU MIGHT HAVE HAD ENOUGH PIPE, IF YOU JUST CUT OUT THE OLD SHUT OFF VALVE . THE SHARK VALVE TOOK UP ABOUT THE SAME AMOUNT OF ROOM . GOOD VIDEO THOUGH.
That slip in fitting is just what I'm looking for. Now to find some place that sells them here in Phoenix.
Did you find them, and are they holding up brah?
hmmmmm. Amazon comes in handy now and then.
If you could give how to measure the copper piece that you pre cut would be perfect thr video. That's the primary part!
Thanks so much for this, very helpful!!
The copper pipe seemed to have enough flex and movement in it that you could’ve got away with just a regular coupling versus using the slip repair coupling.
true, but you need a shutoff for the hose bibb
Awesome video!
Hi, great video! Did you take the little plastic piece out of the Sharkbite fitting before putting the copper pipe in?
laxplaya25 I called SharkBite and asked them about this. They said you can leave it in for any pipe :D
Awesome thanks a lot!
Since you had at least 1" of movement in the pipe you could have just cut the pipe close to the old valve and just used the shark bite valve to make the connection and saved the slip end fitting
Will this work with a vertical cold water pipe to hot water heater
I just did a similar repair using the shark bites. I am a little weary of this system. Has it held up so far?
Barry Evers I used it 5 years ago to run lines for a washer machine. so far no problems at all.
@@renesilva241 How bout now?
Hey Nelson, the best action you can take is to probably order it via Amazon.
Thanks for making and sharing this video with us Jeff. My question for you is how can you be 100% certain that where the Sharkbite fittings join the copper pipes will not leak or burst for reasons that you cannot foresee now? Let's say you leave for vacation for 1 - 2 weeks and does not shutoff the main switch, what would you do if you come back and find your house immersed in water? I find Sharkbite an attractive alternative than expensive plumbers, but what if ...? This is my main concern.
Thanks Eric Dunn for your concerns and question. I understand your fear and trust me I hate water leaks just as much as you. With several rentals and my own house to worry about I want to limit the risk of water damage.
I've been using SharkBites for the last 3 years and haven't had any problems with leaks. My own plumber has brought up his concerns that push on fittings will only last 10 years or so.
You can use the what if scenario with compression and sweated fittings, too. What if the nut on the compression fitting wasn't tightened enough or too much? What if the sweated shutoff valve has a small leak?
I've learned to live with these risks, test my push on fittings rigorously, and shutoff the water before vacationing. But overall, I like them a lot and haven't seen one fail yet. But I'll keep you posted :)
www.sharkbiteplumbing.com/faq
Has it held up for 8 years??
@@HomeRepairTutor has it held up for 8 years? Lol