I just finished this using your instructions. I can add some simplifying steps: At 7:55 don't bother with that spring. It's just holding the adjustment tab to the shoe, and the two both come off as a single unit. Take off the spring after you remove the shoe. You don't need a spring tool to get all the springs off. even at 8:50. Just use vice grips. I actually got a set of four at Harbor Freight for around 15 bucks and they came with a needle nose pair. This is what I used. And at 8:50, just clamp it gently to the round clip and use just like the tool you have. It was a piece of cake. At 10:22 that is a soft ring, not a c-ring. It spins so I moved it so that the side opposite the break in the ring is on the outside. I then used a vice grip to squeeze it tight and used a small slot screwdriver to pry the break wider. I then used a larger slot screwdriver to widen it more. At that point it could be slid off enough to leave a gap on the other side where I slipped in the screwdriver and twisted it to completely remove the ring. BTW, for assembly, I slid it on and used the needle nose vice grips to squeeze it shut in steps. Honestly, adding what you taught in your video to what I learned with the first brake, the other side took a fraction of the time to do.
I did mine but now my e brake barely works on flat surface, up or down hill it just goes like if not even on. There's a video that it needs to be tighten on the brake handle, I don't think so, I have understand is on the wheel.
@@rickmontalvo9527yes its on the inside of the hub opposite of the brake lining. Theirs I little hold that you take a screws driver and you thur the wheel with notches in it one way or the tighten or loose. You will putting your screw driver in and going up or down in a latoral direction. When you the brakes you can see the little notched wheel and their will be that little hole where you screw driver that will be you are turning after you put the drum that called adjusting the brakes.
One time I put a T25 into a T27 bolt and stripped it out. Problem is, the T27 was on a very expensive CVT transmission that Ford quit using. Part is "obsolete." There were only a dozen or so bolts left in the USA, so I paid $25 for a bolt plus shipping. You live and learn. Congrats on the birth of your most recent child. You are looking well! :) At 11:47 I find a "cat claw" is very useful. Saves your screw drivers from damage, etc. I just recently invested in a couple.
Haha as far as the parking brake thing goes I think we've all been there. I'm super jealous of how clean your cars stay. Here in wisconsin that thing would be rusted already. Looking forward to seeing more videos on the truck!
Try using a vice grip and stout screwdriver to pry off spring hooks. Clamp on just ahead of the hook and pry against the hub for leverage, piece o'cake!
Good Job, Pick up a Break spring tool next time you hit the parts store, or check out eBay, get one with a T handle, gives you leverage, and a lot more bearable to deal with the main spring, Keep up the Great Job and Thank You. I am having my Son do his rear breaks this weekend. Have you noticed how So Many people today never open the hood until the car/auto won't start for them. It is Great to see a Young Person, doing what they can, and not Having the work done, I am now close to 70, still active, I just don't want to do my work anymore, I did it all my life, found a Great Mechanic, and am trying to enjoy the Golden Years, Respectfully, Jim P. P.S. Never Give Up
Thanks for the comment Jim! I have 2 spring tools but I'll have to look for the one with a T handle! That could be more helpful! I have certainly noticed how the millenials know nothing about cars. I make my money off of their lack of inclination. Glad you found a great mechanic! That isn't always easy to do!
Pro Tips: 1.(Be sure the E-brake is OFF) Once you have the drum about 1/2 off REMOVE the bolts and the drum will pull right off. That's because the screws are making the drum tilt from one side to the other, jamming the drum from sliding straight off. 2. Use regular slip joint pliers to twist off the round hold-down springs, and needle-nose vice grip pliers (or real brake tools) to remove the other springs. 3. Put the ant-seize grease on LAST to avoid accidentally contaminating the shoes.
I know, it should be the emergency brake, or e-brake, and then she asked her do you have the parking brake on, and then she told her or have it in park, when she should have said no to you have the emergency brake on????
They fast action it when she used the screw driver to slack the drum off. Thats also how you adjust the brake lining to the drum. Exactly opposite. Then tighten the brake lining to the drum where you feel very luttle drag when you spin the drum. Not to much drag.
Kind of knew when you were trying to winch it off the park brake was on.... As well, there is a hole in the backing plate to pop a screwdriver and dump all the adjustment out of the adjuster, so it collapses the shoes in all the way, so that you can get it off the lip. With the anti seize put a tiny bit on the adjuster ratchet and the ends of the springs, plus a tiny dab on the pivots of the shoes. Tip for taking off and putting on is to undo the clips for the pads, and then pop them off as a unit complete with springs, and then collapse them between the nut plate and the backing plate, makes the springs easy to pop, and put back the adjuster spring that way. While you are there just pop a boot each side of the slave cylinder and look for fluid, a little is fine, but if it is dripping time to put a new slave in or send it to be resleeved, or at least a hone and new seals. Not much dust there, normally I have nearly a cup of brake dust, plus those linings were not too bad, just a little glazed, you should check the park brake cable is not binding, or that the adjustment is not out leaving them lightly grabbing.
I want one of those impacts, have a battery 3/8, but it won't take off lug nuts. I started by fixing a music keyboard of mine when they quoted me over $300 just to replace a $50 pcb power board. Then I hung out with a musician friend doing brakes and brought my car over the next weekend. I've been fixing things ever since. I also hate throwing out things that can be repaired, too much of this stuff is in our landfills.
@@D6Spanky I have a 1/4 Milwaukee impact. It's great for things I can't turn by hand, but not for tire fasteners. I could see that air one you have works really fast.
hahaha! I did it once on a Ford super duty and it was nearly impossible to get it back on. I won't do it unless I have to! No, I have avoided ordering two lefties. my parts guys are awesome about checking on those kinds of things!
Great video great job, I have no offense of women doing your own brakes, by all means I welcome that, so you guys can understand your own cars, also a most of times you need to back off on the adjuster which is on the backside of the drum plate unloosened the adjuster screw and then the drum will come off easier, but yes of course the e-brake needs to be off completely.... now you need to make it part 2 on the video when you put them back on, looking forward to it, 👍!!!! Oh yeah, don't forget to use the brake cleaner buy yourself a couple of cans makes the job a lot easier so you can see what is going on, and make sure the brake shoes are clean of any Grease, use the brake cleaner or some sandpaper....
Good Job!! , you inspire me to do it my self ..
I just finished this using your instructions. I can add some simplifying steps:
At 7:55 don't bother with that spring. It's just holding the adjustment tab to the shoe, and the two both come off as a single unit. Take off the spring after you remove the shoe.
You don't need a spring tool to get all the springs off. even at 8:50. Just use vice grips. I actually got a set of four at Harbor Freight for around 15 bucks and they came with a needle nose pair. This is what I used. And at 8:50, just clamp it gently to the round clip and use just like the tool you have. It was a piece of cake.
At 10:22 that is a soft ring, not a c-ring. It spins so I moved it so that the side opposite the break in the ring is on the outside. I then used a vice grip to squeeze it tight and used a small slot screwdriver to pry the break wider. I then used a larger slot screwdriver to widen it more. At that point it could be slid off enough to leave a gap on the other side where I slipped in the screwdriver and twisted it to completely remove the ring. BTW, for assembly, I slid it on and used the needle nose vice grips to squeeze it shut in steps.
Honestly, adding what you taught in your video to what I learned with the first brake, the other side took a fraction of the time to do.
just hit the drum with hammer! they will come right off. it also helps if you take off the e-brake.
I did mine but now my e brake barely works on flat surface, up or down hill it just goes like if not even on. There's a video that it needs to be tighten on the brake handle, I don't think so, I have understand is on the wheel.
That's how broke loose the drums on a big truck. Peterbilt.
@@rickmontalvo9527yes its on the inside of the hub opposite of the brake lining. Theirs I little hold that you take a screws driver and you thur the wheel with notches in it one way or the tighten or loose. You will putting your screw driver in and going up or down in a latoral direction. When you the brakes you can see the little notched wheel and their will be that little hole where you screw driver that will be you are turning after you put the drum that called adjusting the brakes.
One time I put a T25 into a T27 bolt and stripped it out. Problem is, the T27 was on a very expensive CVT transmission that Ford quit using. Part is "obsolete." There were only a dozen or so bolts left in the USA, so I paid $25 for a bolt plus shipping. You live and learn. Congrats on the birth of your most recent child. You are looking well! :)
At 11:47 I find a "cat claw" is very useful. Saves your screw drivers from damage, etc. I just recently invested in a couple.
Haha as far as the parking brake thing goes I think we've all been there. I'm super jealous of how clean your cars stay. Here in wisconsin that thing would be rusted already. Looking forward to seeing more videos on the truck!
Bucketsamson thanks! I'm excited to get them filmed and edited. especially filmed.
Brilliant work! Keep it up!
Try using a vice grip and stout screwdriver to pry off spring hooks. Clamp on just ahead of the hook and pry against the hub for leverage, piece o'cake!
Good Job, Pick up a Break spring tool next time you hit the parts store, or check out eBay, get one with a T handle, gives you leverage, and a lot more bearable to deal with the main spring, Keep up the Great Job and Thank You. I am having my Son do his rear breaks this weekend. Have you noticed how So Many people today never open the hood until the car/auto won't start for them. It is Great to see a Young Person, doing what they can, and not Having the work done, I am now close to 70, still active, I just don't want to do my work anymore, I did it all my life, found a Great Mechanic, and am trying to enjoy the Golden Years, Respectfully, Jim P. P.S. Never Give Up
Thanks for the comment Jim! I have 2 spring tools but I'll have to look for the one with a T handle! That could be more helpful! I have certainly noticed how the millenials know nothing about cars. I make my money off of their lack of inclination. Glad you found a great mechanic! That isn't always easy to do!
Pro Tips: 1.(Be sure the E-brake is OFF) Once you have the drum about 1/2 off REMOVE the bolts and the drum will pull right off. That's because the screws are making the drum tilt from one side to the other, jamming the drum from sliding straight off. 2. Use regular slip joint pliers to twist off the round hold-down springs, and needle-nose vice grip pliers (or real brake tools) to remove the other springs. 3. Put the ant-seize grease on LAST to avoid accidentally contaminating the shoes.
parking brake?
Daniel CS bingo. I made the same mistake this weekend, on my 2k5 xa.
We have a winner!
I know, it should be the emergency brake, or e-brake, and then she asked her do you have the parking brake on, and then she told her or have it in park, when she should have said no to you have the emergency brake on????
Nice! You got it.
They fast action it when she used the screw driver to slack the drum off. Thats also how you adjust the brake lining to the drum. Exactly opposite. Then tighten the brake lining to the drum where you feel very luttle drag when you spin the drum. Not to much drag.
Kind of knew when you were trying to winch it off the park brake was on.... As well, there is a hole in the backing plate to pop a screwdriver and dump all the adjustment out of the adjuster, so it collapses the shoes in all the way, so that you can get it off the lip.
With the anti seize put a tiny bit on the adjuster ratchet and the ends of the springs, plus a tiny dab on the pivots of the shoes. Tip for taking off and putting on is to undo the clips for the pads, and then pop them off as a unit complete with springs, and then collapse them between the nut plate and the backing plate, makes the springs easy to pop, and put back the adjuster spring that way.
While you are there just pop a boot each side of the slave cylinder and look for fluid, a little is fine, but if it is dripping time to put a new slave in or send it to be resleeved, or at least a hone and new seals.
Not much dust there, normally I have nearly a cup of brake dust, plus those linings were not too bad, just a little glazed, you should check the park brake cable is not binding, or that the adjustment is not out leaving them lightly grabbing.
What tool did you use to pull the spring off?
Mike Pearce which spring?
The return spring on top of the adjuster assembly.
Mike Pearce Lisle 45100 spring tool. About $10.
so cute when a girl tried to replace brakes the first time.
I want one of those impacts, have a battery 3/8, but it won't take off lug nuts. I started by fixing a music keyboard of mine when they quoted me over $300 just to replace a $50 pcb power board. Then I hung out with a musician friend doing brakes and brought my car over the next weekend. I've been fixing things ever since. I also hate throwing out things that can be repaired, too much of this stuff is in our landfills.
If you want battery powered impact, look into Milwaukee Tools. They have amazing tools.
@@D6Spanky I have a 1/4 Milwaukee impact. It's great for things I can't turn by hand, but not for tire fasteners. I could see that air one you have works really fast.
Um ? do you have the park brake on, hahah awesome . Oh ya i've done it too .
I use an Ingarsol Rand air impact. Loud.
I didn't need to know how to do this. But I watched the whole video.
I hate that brush on the anti-seize. I always get it all over everything!! Yep having the parking break on makes it supper difficult!!
What state do you live in?
raybin Utah
D6Spanky Do you remember the main front and rear jack points for your friends Scion XA? My manual doesn’t seem to match my undercarriage.
actually that arm at the end of the video can come off. just pull the coil sleeve beck and slip the cable thrust the arm. do the reverse to reinstall
Ross Potts this is true but I find its not worth the hassle.
D6Spanky okay, ill concede that one. I hope you didn't pull my bonehead move and order 2 left side drum brake adjusters. D'oh!
hahaha! I did it once on a Ford super duty and it was nearly impossible to get it back on. I won't do it unless I have to! No, I have avoided ordering two lefties. my parts guys are awesome about checking on those kinds of things!
Those brake shoes like fine imo
Very good
Hey Babe, great to so another video ! You did some of this on purpose, didn't you ?
BADDOG 43 what? me? never!
+1 for checking the parking brake. I've been bitten by that a few times. Trust but verify. 🤔😜
Parking brakes make it difficult. :-)
txsviking I know, right? before we started I told her a few times to make sure the parking brake was not engaged. lesson learned: check for myself.
Great video great job, I have no offense of women doing your own brakes, by all means I welcome that, so you guys can understand your own cars, also a most of times you need to back off on the adjuster which is on the backside of the drum plate unloosened the adjuster screw and then the drum will come off easier, but yes of course the e-brake needs to be off completely.... now you need to make it part 2 on the video when you put them back on, looking forward to it, 👍!!!!
Oh yeah, don't forget to use the brake cleaner buy yourself a couple of cans makes the job a lot easier so you can see what is going on, and make sure the brake shoes are clean of any Grease, use the brake cleaner or some sandpaper....
Go Spanks! :-D
Take off the break lol
Right?! hahaha
drum brakes piss me off