That kind of thing is pretty tricky to get. It’s probably easier to get a generic male and female connector and attach both together. That’s what I would do. Otherwise, you have to get it from the dealer, but connectors are always a pain to identify and make sure that you get the right one. Best of luck to you.
Thanks for the well explained video. Im having a similiar situation but curious if its the switch. When troubleshooting and while sitting on the seat i can bypass and start safely putting a screwdriver across the solenoid with key in on position (will not engage to start using key). Once i get off the seat afterwards it dies even with the e-brake pulled, levers in correct position and pto off...Hmmmm? Didnt have much time to troubleshoot but was curious if you have ran into this problem. Will also not start with trying the method while off the seat which it should be, but normally would stay running after with pto off, levers in correct position and e-brake off.
I cannot be sure if I’ve seen that exact topic before. In general, the starter will only engage if 1. Key is in run, 2. Clutch is in (if equipped, 3. Handles disengaged, 4. Seat occupied, 5. PTO off. Tracking down which of the listed is not ok can be a real pain. Sometimes the only way is to watch each switch position (at the back of the ignition switch ugh!) with a multi meter
@@35andRetired Thanks for quick response. Thats my next step to check switches at solenoid. Just curious if it'll change the states while they are still hooked up, or if ill have to unhook and do 1 at a time.
@@DavidBrown-pu1cf yup. Connecting those two terminals in any way, shape or form would have the same result. Just be aware that vibrations might cause your little jumper wire to come out overtime.
I figured it would ill probably go the solder route. Just wanted to test the jumper method to make sure it would work. It's randomly cutting off was gonna jumper it and run it to make sure it's the seat switch and not the neutral switches before I make it a permanent bypass.
@@DavidBrown-pu1cf for sure. That’s a good decision. Exactly what I would do for testing purposes. Just don’t shove anything too large into the female pins, it can spread and damage them.
Very informative video and cool analysis. Are you up for a collaboration? Hipa supplies parts for small engines and maybe we can work together to help more DIY repairers in the community.
Good video. Can the piece of wood under the seat cushion be replaced? I'm looking at one to buy and that piece is broken/rotten from getting wet.
Cant say for sure, although I am sure with some handy skills it could be done, just havent done it myself...sorry!
If I just wanted to replace the female connector from the harness; where could I get one?
That kind of thing is pretty tricky to get. It’s probably easier to get a generic male and female connector and attach both together. That’s what I would do. Otherwise, you have to get it from the dealer, but connectors are always a pain to identify and make sure that you get the right one. Best of luck to you.
Thanks for the well explained video. Im having a similiar situation but curious if its the switch. When troubleshooting and while sitting on the seat i can bypass and start safely putting a screwdriver across the solenoid with key in on position (will not engage to start using key). Once i get off the seat afterwards it dies even with the e-brake pulled, levers in correct position and pto off...Hmmmm? Didnt have much time to troubleshoot but was curious if you have ran into this problem. Will also not start with trying the method while off the seat which it should be, but normally would stay running after with pto off, levers in correct position and e-brake off.
I cannot be sure if I’ve seen that exact topic before. In general, the starter will only engage if 1. Key is in run, 2. Clutch is in (if equipped, 3. Handles disengaged, 4. Seat occupied, 5. PTO off. Tracking down which of the listed is not ok can be a real pain. Sometimes the only way is to watch each switch position (at the back of the ignition switch ugh!) with a multi meter
@@35andRetired Thanks for quick response. Thats my next step to check switches at solenoid. Just curious if it'll change the states while they are still hooked up, or if ill have to unhook and do 1 at a time.
When you are shorting the wires white to black and red to yellow. Are you putting a jumper wire in the plug end to the corresponding wires?
In this case, I had the customer's permission to just cut the connection and solder the wires together and add heat shrink...
So would putting jumpers in the plug end have the same results?
@@DavidBrown-pu1cf yup. Connecting those two terminals in any way, shape or form would have the same result. Just be aware that vibrations might cause your little jumper wire to come out overtime.
I figured it would ill probably go the solder route. Just wanted to test the jumper method to make sure it would work. It's randomly cutting off was gonna jumper it and run it to make sure it's the seat switch and not the neutral switches before I make it a permanent bypass.
@@DavidBrown-pu1cf for sure. That’s a good decision. Exactly what I would do for testing purposes. Just don’t shove anything too large into the female pins, it can spread and damage them.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Very informative video and cool analysis. Are you up for a collaboration? Hipa supplies parts for small engines and maybe we can work together to help more DIY repairers in the community.
Thanks! For now, I am not up for any collaboration, but thanks for offering!
@@35andRetired Thanks for your reply. Have a good one.