that's what I call an instructional video. no superfluous self-promotion. more technical information and correct instructions is not possible. Super! Top of the line!
m8 your a real pro .only found this by mistake az didnt realise same engine in the volvo v70 2.0 rdisign which is what ive been typing in the search bar without very dubiouse vids being offerd up . thanks
there is simple tool,or make your own, to centralize the crank pinion on the woodruff key but it was well explained here. at around 7.15mins but those who overlook will risk misfiring timings
I really like this video its very helpfull Thank you very much man ! Only thing I would like to know the torque for the tentioner, waterpump, etc. if you be able to share it 😇 much apriciated 🙏
it was all going so well THEN.carnt get the tensioner pully back on properly .my bolt is diferent to the one in your vid mine unsrews from the block the nut is fixed ,everytime i try to fix it in place its just moving from the notch/lug in the block ,spent hours yestaday trying to do it ,any surjestions.?
Forgot to show heating the crankshaft bolt. It’s important because lots of people have ended up shearing the crankshaft bolt in the end of the crankshaft. Once heated the bolt comes out very easily without much effort.
Have done lots of these cam belts, have not had to heat the bolt for removal, if you are doing it manually with a breaker bar it may help but the thread lock (being non permanent) is not stronger than the bolt itself. It should shear the thread lock before it sheers the bolt. The only instance I can see is if somebody has been there before and overtightened it.
@@Chris_CDB If you go on some of the mechanic groups on Facebook there’s quite a few mechanics that have been caught out when the bolt has sheared. Heat for 4 minutes is specified by both Ford and Peugeot, and undo with a torque wrench set to 200nm is specified by Peugeot, and if it clicks heat for a further minute before continuing. They specify this because they know the bolts can shear, there’s even a warning not to use power tools on it.
@@Chris_CDB there are some warnings about using impact tools on the crank bolt however but as you say there're not that difficult to undo with muscles. great video thanks for sharing
@@Clicksystemsdo they say you should also lock up the flywheel with a flywheel locking tool azweel az a pin (removing starter motor) or is it not nesercery becouse the pully wheel isnt floating ??
@riskfreesolutionsforbusiness when you buy the timing kit it comes with a crank locking pin, a cam locking pin and a flywheel lock tool (which yes you remove the starter motor to put on), however in all the ones I have done I haven’t used it.
carnt understand why my tensioner dosnt sit flush on the block the plate with all the cutouts that the lugon the block sits bettwen is about 5mil off the block,so the lug in the block dosnt stop it from moving left or righ teven when the nut is tightened down .
Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge! I have this same lump in my Volvo S40 2.0D, according to diagnostics the crankshaft position sensor is faulty .. so just one question if I may: is it possible to remove that sensor without removing the lower crank pulley first? Is there enough room for it to wiggle out from underneath that pulley while everything else stays in place apart from the alternator belt? I don't mind removing that belt, but I really don't want to mess with that 22mm bolt, fetch engine locking pins ... ect.
You “should” be able to get it out, however you may struggle if the pin is seized inside the hole as you need to pry it out….. does the car run?… as usually if the crank sensor is at fault the car won’t fire into life. It will crank but won’t fire.
@@Chris_CDB Thanks for answering, the car runs fine once it starts, but it does struggle to start .. I have to crank 3 to 4 seconds to get the engine running, and even then it's a sluggish idle, meaning that the rpm take their time to reach 800. This all started after a heavy downfall, water seeped into the right fog light housing, that must have caused a short circuit because the bulb blew up and turned to dust! and suddenly the whole dash lit up like a Christmas tree with all sorts of warnings and msgs .. I was able to stop, turn the car off hoping to reset it but it wouldn't even crank. Luckily I carry a cheap ELM 327 OBD module with me, and that did the trick and reset all fault codes and then it fired up just fine , but only the crank position sensor fault remained pending for a couple of days after that , but now it no longer shows, and yet it still hesitates to fire up.
yes did mine the other day with only the aux belt cover out of the way to get to the connector no need to remove the aux belt or crank pulley with its one use only 22mm bolt!
ok so got the pully bolt out ok but the whole wheel?balencer is stuck on solid any ideas with this actual one becouse dosnt seen anywhere to lock a puller on to??
These crank bolts are thread locked in from the factory, although the crank pulley has a key way on the pulley, you will probably find you will need something to hold the flywheel still as you undo it as it will be tight (and the thread lock adds to that). Also you need to lock it up to do the belt, so you may aswell lock it before.
@@Chris_CDB tried heat with air wrench (no joy ) am wondereing if i can get away with not locking flywheel by marking old belt to pullys (top&bottom ) twice (differnt colours) once with belt tentioned then with belt untentioned transfering all those marks to new belt .that way will i be able to avoid locking flywheel and also having mark flywheel .twice becouse the slight play in the keyway ?
@@Chris_CDBits manual so carnt just put it in gear then use whatever for e to undo bolt or do you still have to lock at flywheel or does that risk "chewing ?bending )stuff up in the engine ??
Yes, it will snap the rockers, and twist the cams. There is a video of me repairing a Kuga engine that had broken the teeth of the belt, you can see what is involved.
The hole for the crank location is not on the flywheel, it is on the reluctor wheel, it is the only circular hole on the wheel, that is the location for the crank top dead center.
Then why would there another hole under is well below starter. hole marches flywheel same engine ford Citroen 2016 diesel just wondering my belt got snapped replaced it same way but engine got heavy knocking and vibrations
Yes you want to lock it up (and the cylinder head) the bolt is extremely tight and it is thread locked, plus the keyway on the crank will allow the crank to move a slight bit in both directions, so chances will be you will move the bottom end in relation to the head.
@chrisaxo86 Thank you for your reply.i can't get it in the garage for over 3 weeks, if I heat the bolt up and impact it off what's the chances of it causing a big problem. The garage that was going to do it said they would only air gun it off, it was only ford telling me it needs timing. Kind regards
@tezm31 if you look at the video from about 7.10 you can see the crank “floats” a few degrees both ways, it relays on being locked in position and the bolt being done up tight to hold it in its timed position (hence the tightness and the thread lock). You will need to heat it up ideally to soften the thread lock if it’s never been off, but I would 100% lock it, if the garage is saying they will only impact it off I would steer clear, there is no way it won’t move a few degrees out.
Thanks mate, the tensioners are INA, sometimes they have the cheap bearings by C&U in their kits and crappy waterpumps in their kits made in china. What do you tinnk about it? Or are the other kits by SKF, Contitech, Hepu, GK compared to Dayco as good as they are. Almost im some Dayco Kits are crappy tensioners Made in China by C&U.
Hi mate, to be honest a lot of the reliability of a car is heavily down to how it’s been treated in its past!, if it’s been maintained well it’s got more chance of being reliable, however the modern engines you are relying a lot on electronics rather than mechanical things.
that's what I call an instructional video.
no superfluous self-promotion.
more technical information and correct instructions is not possible.
Super! Top of the line!
Thank you, I hope It is of Some help!
It is better to watch one visual video on the removed engine than 10 videos where they pick under the hood. Thanks.
No problem! Hope it helps!
m8 your a real pro .only found this by mistake az didnt realise same engine in the volvo v70 2.0 rdisign which is what ive been typing in the search bar without very dubiouse vids being offerd up . thanks
I just got our Mondeo back on the road thanks to this video. I can't thank you enough mate, keep up the good work.
No problem.
What a fantastic video, that has to be the best step by step tutorial I have seen, thank you very much!
No problem, glad it was helpful.
Cheers for the video pal. Be doing mine shortly. Very informative.
No problem mate, any issues feel free to message
there is simple tool,or make your own, to centralize the crank pinion on the woodruff key but it was well explained here. at around 7.15mins but those who overlook will risk misfiring timings
Excellent video mate , very useful
Brilliant video
Excelente y muy util tu video,gracias.Saludos!!!🍻
Very helpfull,thank You very much!
Well explained mate. Great video.
Thanks mate.
Great video. Thanks for posting!
No problem mate, glad it helped out !
Master.Great job.
I really like this video its very helpfull Thank you very much man ! Only thing I would like to know the torque for the tentioner, waterpump, etc. if you be able to share it 😇 much apriciated 🙏
To be honest mate, I wouldn’t worry, just do them up until they feel right.
❤
Decent guide mate
it was all going so well THEN.carnt get the tensioner pully back on properly .my bolt is diferent to the one in your vid mine unsrews from the block the nut is fixed ,everytime i try to fix it in place its just moving from the notch/lug in the block ,spent hours yestaday trying to do it ,any surjestions.?
great video, what about the chain between both camshafts?
The chain is pretty robust to be honest. Doesn’t need touching unless the belt breaks.
Forgot to show heating the crankshaft bolt.
It’s important because lots of people have ended up shearing the crankshaft bolt in the end of the crankshaft.
Once heated the bolt comes out very easily without much effort.
Have done lots of these cam belts, have not had to heat the bolt for removal, if you are doing it manually with a breaker bar it may help but the thread lock (being non permanent) is not stronger than the bolt itself. It should shear the thread lock before it sheers the bolt. The only instance I can see is if somebody has been there before and overtightened it.
@@Chris_CDB
If you go on some of the mechanic groups on Facebook there’s quite a few mechanics that have been caught out when the bolt has sheared.
Heat for 4 minutes is specified by both Ford and Peugeot, and undo with a torque wrench set to 200nm is specified by Peugeot, and if it clicks heat for a further minute before continuing.
They specify this because they know the bolts can shear, there’s even a warning not to use power tools on it.
@@Chris_CDB there are some warnings about using impact tools on the crank bolt however but as you say there're not that difficult to undo with muscles. great video thanks for sharing
@@Clicksystemsdo they say you should also lock up the flywheel with a flywheel locking tool azweel az a pin (removing starter motor) or is it not nesercery becouse the pully wheel isnt floating ??
@riskfreesolutionsforbusiness when you buy the timing kit it comes with a crank locking pin, a cam locking pin and a flywheel lock tool (which yes you remove the starter motor to put on), however in all the ones I have done I haven’t used it.
carnt understand why my tensioner dosnt sit flush on the block the plate with all the cutouts that the lugon the block sits bettwen is about 5mil off the block,so the lug in the block dosnt stop it from moving left or righ teven when the nut is tightened down .
Nice vid man
Thanks mate. Hope it helps!
Great video. Do we need to worry about torque specifications or just tight the bolts as hard as possible
If you are going by the book then torque everything, however in the real world it’s just snug it up and gone a little bit!
Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge!
I have this same lump in my Volvo S40 2.0D, according to diagnostics the crankshaft position sensor is faulty .. so just one question if I may: is it possible to remove that sensor without removing the lower crank pulley first? Is there enough room for it to wiggle out from underneath that pulley while everything else stays in place apart from the alternator belt?
I don't mind removing that belt, but I really don't want to mess with that 22mm bolt, fetch engine locking pins ... ect.
You “should” be able to get it out, however you may struggle if the pin is seized inside the hole as you need to pry it out….. does the car run?… as usually if the crank sensor is at fault the car won’t fire into life. It will crank but won’t fire.
@@Chris_CDB Thanks for answering, the car runs fine once it starts, but it does struggle to start .. I have to crank 3 to 4 seconds to get the engine running, and even then it's a sluggish idle, meaning that the rpm take their time to reach 800.
This all started after a heavy downfall, water seeped into the right fog light housing, that must have caused a short circuit because the bulb blew up and turned to dust! and suddenly the whole dash lit up like a Christmas tree with all sorts of warnings and msgs .. I was able to stop, turn the car off hoping to reset it but it wouldn't even crank. Luckily I carry a cheap ELM 327 OBD module with me, and that did the trick and reset all fault codes and then it fired up just fine , but only the crank position sensor fault remained pending for a couple of days after that , but now it no longer shows, and yet it still hesitates to fire up.
yes did mine the other day with only the aux belt cover out of the way to get to the connector no need to remove the aux belt or crank pulley with its one use only 22mm bolt!
ok so got the pully bolt out ok but the whole wheel?balencer is stuck on solid any ideas with this actual one becouse dosnt seen anywhere to lock a puller on to??
Give it a tap with a copper hammer mate, it will come off
if youve got air tool do you need to lock flywheel when undoing pully bolt and also when you tighten pully bolt to spec after job.?????
These crank bolts are thread locked in from the factory, although the crank pulley has a key way on the pulley, you will probably find you will need something to hold the flywheel still as you undo it as it will be tight (and the thread lock adds to that). Also you need to lock it up to do the belt, so you may aswell lock it before.
@@Chris_CDB tried heat with air wrench (no joy ) am wondereing if i can get away with not locking flywheel by marking old belt to pullys (top&bottom ) twice (differnt colours) once with belt tentioned then with belt untentioned transfering all those marks to new belt .that way will i be able to avoid locking flywheel and also having mark flywheel .twice becouse the slight play in the keyway ?
@@Chris_CDBits manual so carnt just put it in gear then use whatever for e to undo bolt or do you still have to lock at flywheel or does that risk "chewing ?bending )stuff up in the engine ??
Do you know what damage gets done in these engines if cam belt snaps?
Yes, it will snap the rockers, and twist the cams. There is a video of me repairing a Kuga engine that had broken the teeth of the belt, you can see what is involved.
Thansk!!!🤝
No problem!
Is there only 1 hole in the flywheel? And that's top centre centre for the crank?
The hole for the crank location is not on the flywheel, it is on the reluctor wheel, it is the only circular hole on the wheel, that is the location for the crank top dead center.
Then why would there another hole under is well below starter. hole marches flywheel same engine ford Citroen 2016 diesel just wondering my belt got snapped replaced it same way but engine got heavy knocking and vibrations
Hi, do i need to lock the flywheel to change crank pulley. Or can i just impact it off. Kind regards
Yes you want to lock it up (and the cylinder head) the bolt is extremely tight and it is thread locked, plus the keyway on the crank will allow the crank to move a slight bit in both directions, so chances will be you will move the bottom end in relation to the head.
@chrisaxo86 Thank you for your reply.i can't get it in the garage for over 3 weeks, if I heat the bolt up and impact it off what's the chances of it causing a big problem. The garage that was going to do it said they would only air gun it off, it was only ford telling me it needs timing. Kind regards
@tezm31 if you look at the video from about 7.10 you can see the crank “floats” a few degrees both ways, it relays on being locked in position and the bolt being done up tight to hold it in its timed position (hence the tightness and the thread lock). You will need to heat it up ideally to soften the thread lock if it’s never been off, but I would 100% lock it, if the garage is saying they will only impact it off I would steer clear, there is no way it won’t move a few degrees out.
@chrisaxo86 OK, thank you for your reply much appreciated.
Which belt kit do you use and which tensioner
This kit I think was a dayco kit. Belt and tensioners ect.
Thanks mate,
the tensioners are INA,
sometimes they have the cheap bearings by C&U in their kits and crappy waterpumps in their kits
made in china.
What do you tinnk about it?
Or are the other kits by SKF, Contitech, Hepu, GK
compared to Dayco as good as they are.
Almost im some Dayco Kits are crappy tensioners Made in China by C&U.
Where is the weep hole on the water pump?
Without having one in my hand I can’t tell you, it is usually behind the pulley.
hi are these cars reliable 2.0 tdci galaxy looking at one thanks
Hi mate, to be honest a lot of the reliability of a car is heavily down to how it’s been treated in its past!, if it’s been maintained well it’s got more chance of being reliable, however the modern engines you are relying a lot on electronics rather than mechanical things.
some amount of muttering and sighing done
That’s the spirit! 😂
If I had to do all this just to change a timing belt I would be swearing as well, crazy amount of work involved.
2008 v50 2.0 it is like this engine?thanks.
Yes it should be the same engine, maybe a few differences between the air intake system but essentially the same thing.
2011 MC Mondeo would be the same engine would it?
What’s your registration number mate and I can check engine code
@@Chris_CDB I'm in Australia mate
Excellent video mate , very useful