Thank you for putting the time into creating this video and comparing the different options. I run an LJ on 37s with the PSC big bore steering box and the factory power steering pump. Steering feel was very heavy with the factory ps pump. I took your advice and swapped out only the valve in the LJ pump. This lightened up my steering substantially and makes the steering feel back to how it was with smaller tires. In town and on the highway feels great without being too loose. It's definitely worth the time to swap the valve out. Thanks again!
Great video my man, this is exactly the type of content the Jeep community needs. Cheap, affordable, effective mods. Cheers, for saving me a ton of time and money!
Great work and I appreciate finding this video. I've been thinking about the WJ upgrade, but I'm glad I've been waiting on the upgrade. Maybe seeing your video was divine intervention. :)
thanks this was a easy swap to put a WJ re-leaf valve in a stock XJ pump and fitting. when i originally ran the WJ pump i had some issues with to much pressure on the return line because i drilled out the XJ fitting plus all the adapters to make it work so this led me down the rabbit hole.
@@yesterdaysproject6106 have some not so good news. I swapped out the XJ valve with the WJ valve, and now I'm loosing power steering at low rpm, at or below 2000. I did some research on troubleshooting and did two things: 1. Pulled the WJ valve back out and blew compressor air through the port to make sure there wasn't any blockage, 2. Flushed & bled the entire system with new fluid. The loss of power steering is still happening at low rpm. I guess at this point, the only thing I can conclude is that the age of my pump is playing a role in this result, i.e. just a weaker pump due to its age. As far as know, this is an original PS pump in my 1998. Other than that I'm about ready to put the XJ valve back. Any additional ideas?
without some pressure readings i could not say. its very possible a worn pump may not be able to handle it. also be sure to bleed the system after the swap.
as you increase pressure so does heat. I would for sure recommend a cooler. a cooler would really help a stock pump as well. many people start to have steering fadewhen off road because they boil the fluid
it is for a 4.7 WJ 2003-2004 it can be identified by the hydraulic cooling fan. I have not found a source to order them new so ive got them from the junkyard
@@yesterdaysproject6106 Thank you. Did you happen to measure the difference in the hole sizes of the XJ vs WJ relief valves? I'm sure you know that a lot of people just drill the XK pressure relief valve a little larger. You mentioned the springs felt different between the two, but I wonder if the hole all is really needed to be done? Or, at least give a little more of a bump but not as good as larger hole and WJ spring?
I preformed no test on simply drilling the XJ port with no other modifications. But would be interested. there are 3 parts at play here. #1 the valve, #2 the fitting and #3 the spring. so the re-leaf valve controls the pressure by swapping the valve to WJ you can go from 1500 to 1700 psi max.... the 2nd part of the video focus on drilling the port in the fitting something i do not recommend. drilling the port changes volume of fluid not pressure. when I drilled the port larger I had so much volume it created excess pressure on the return line causing the cooler lines to leak and slip off. I concluded that unless you need volume to run a ram or additional external assist for additional drilling the port serves no advantage. drilling the port made the return pressure to high and made the pump noisy. the WJ pump has a much larger pressure fitting port because it is running both the PS pump and a hydraulic cooling fan because it is running 2 items more volume is required. In order to run a WJ pump you must still use the XJ fitting because XJ and WJ pressure lines are different thread and size. many people drill the XJ fitting to match the size of the WJ fitting however the XJ does not require this amount of volume because it does not have a hydraulic fan. this volume of fluid still needs to go somewhere so it starts to build pressure on the return line. this could cause pump cavitation and turbulence of fluid in the fluid reservoir.
Thank you for putting the time into creating this video and comparing the different options. I run an LJ on 37s with the PSC big bore steering box and the factory power steering pump. Steering feel was very heavy with the factory ps pump. I took your advice and swapped out only the valve in the LJ pump. This lightened up my steering substantially and makes the steering feel back to how it was with smaller tires. In town and on the highway feels great without being too loose. It's definitely worth the time to swap the valve out. Thanks again!
Great video my man, this is exactly the type of content the Jeep community needs. Cheap, affordable, effective mods. Cheers, for saving me a ton of time and money!
Great work and I appreciate finding this video. I've been thinking about the WJ upgrade, but I'm glad I've been waiting on the upgrade. Maybe seeing your video was divine intervention. :)
thanks this was a easy swap to put a WJ re-leaf valve in a stock XJ pump and fitting. when i originally ran the WJ pump i had some issues with to much pressure on the return line because i drilled out the XJ fitting plus all the adapters to make it work so this led me down the rabbit hole.
@@yesterdaysproject6106 have some not so good news. I swapped out the XJ valve with the WJ valve, and now I'm loosing power steering at low rpm, at or below 2000. I did some research on troubleshooting and did two things: 1. Pulled the WJ valve back out and blew compressor air through the port to make sure there wasn't any blockage, 2. Flushed & bled the entire system with new fluid. The loss of power steering is still happening at low rpm. I guess at this point, the only thing I can conclude is that the age of my pump is playing a role in this result, i.e. just a weaker pump due to its age. As far as know, this is an original PS pump in my 1998. Other than that I'm about ready to put the XJ valve back. Any additional ideas?
without some pressure readings i could not say. its very possible a worn pump may not be able to handle it. also be sure to bleed the system after the swap.
Awesome work man. You saved me some time and frustration! Thank you thank you
Nice work Kyle💪🏻
Wow, this is good info!! I'm so goin to try this on my ZJ, as I'm running 37s. Do you think a cooler would help as well?
as you increase pressure so does heat. I would for sure recommend a cooler. a cooler would really help a stock pump as well. many people start to have steering fadewhen off road because they boil the fluid
Thanks a lot man
This is fantastic! Really like to see the numbers. Thanks very much! Would you have a link to getting the right pressure relief valve?
it is for a 4.7 WJ 2003-2004 it can be identified by the hydraulic cooling fan. I have not found a source to order them new so ive got them from the junkyard
@@yesterdaysproject6106 Thank you. Did you happen to measure the difference in the hole sizes of the XJ vs WJ relief valves? I'm sure you know that a lot of people just drill the XK pressure relief valve a little larger. You mentioned the springs felt different between the two, but I wonder if the hole all is really needed to be done? Or, at least give a little more of a bump but not as good as larger hole and WJ spring?
I preformed no test on simply drilling the XJ port with no other modifications. But would be interested.
there are 3 parts at play here. #1 the valve, #2 the fitting and #3 the spring. so the re-leaf valve controls the pressure by swapping the valve to WJ you can go from 1500 to 1700 psi max.... the 2nd part of the video focus on drilling the port in the fitting something i do not recommend. drilling the port changes volume of fluid not pressure. when I drilled the port larger I had so much volume it created excess pressure on the return line causing the cooler lines to leak and slip off. I concluded that unless you need volume to run a ram or additional external assist for additional drilling the port serves no advantage. drilling the port made the return pressure to high and made the pump noisy.
the WJ pump has a much larger pressure fitting port because it is running both the PS pump and a hydraulic cooling fan because it is running 2 items more volume is required. In order to run a WJ pump you must still use the XJ fitting because XJ and WJ pressure lines are different thread and size. many people drill the XJ fitting to match the size of the WJ fitting however the XJ does not require this amount of volume because it does not have a hydraulic fan. this volume of fluid still needs to go somewhere so it starts to build pressure on the return line. this could cause pump cavitation and turbulence of fluid in the fluid reservoir.
Are you able to take the pressure release spring from any 4.7 WJ, or is it year specific?