1988 KLR650--> apparently, the outermost fibre plate goes in the same position as all others. As my clutch basket does not have indent slots to allow positioning last plate off by 1 tooth. Thanks for another great video.
Your videos are outstanding! They are the best KLR "how to" videos I have ever viewed on TH-cam. Thank you very much and you can count on me being a new Partzilla customer. I really like the parts info you include throughout the video and appreciate the torque specs too.
Great vid, and equally importantly, superb answers to comment section questions! My only critique is the "pick a starting point and lay the case bolts out in order of removal". Undoubtedly works in a bike shop, but the guy turning wrenches in his garage has the "gremlin influences" of dog tails, cats batting around rolly bits, and kids fiddling with stuff. I suggest the "pizza box bolt jig". Just punch holes in the pizza box lid that roughly simulate the bolt arrangement on the case. Use a Philips of scratch awl of close to bolt diameter. Every pulled bolt gets immediately poked in it's lid hole, securing it from "wander lust". The pump and filter bolts can even be placed in it, in appropriately placed holes. Have to make one every time, but the few minutes spent can save an easy hour of torture trying to dope out which goes where after junior plays Jacks with them, lol. A permanent reusable version can be fashioned from Masonite, or thin plywood, or sheet plastic for those so inclined. Same for the left side too, of course.
I was worried about the order and in and out of the plates and your video put me at ease--I think I can remember to put the last friction plate off one tooth. Great job and thanks for the video!
Excellent video. I like that the fact you are clear and percise. It is great that you mention that oil screen, as a lot of people have not heard of it on their KLR. Yours was pretty clean compared to others who have had a big mess of stuff, even after the first oil change.
Sure wish they produced this outer case like a normal dirt bike with a clutch access, but since they didn't, I'm glad you posted this video! Thanks, I overlooked the water pump gasket, looks like I'll place an order for one and get going on the disassemble.
This is the first of your videos that I watch and I really like it. You don't waste time going around and around. You're right on point! I learned something new today! Thanks!!!
Thank you for this video, i will be doing this in the next few days. looking forward. I am really good at mech work some odd reason this one is a bit scary.
would have been a good to do the mechanical seal on the impeller and the 3 oil seals in the case.you must have a great gasket scraper,the adhesive that is used on the case side from the factory was a nightmare on mine.also would be nice to see the exact appropriate grease,manual just calls for a moly disulfide,wich there are a few variations of.good vid thanx.
I followed step by step. Your video is excellent. But I am currently having an issue with oil leaking. It appears to be at the gasket, I did replace both. The water pump is not leaking but the bottom of the cover is... Any help is appreciated.
CORRECTION: My Clymer manual says that KLRs from 1987 - 1995 have their clutch spring bolts get tightened down to 88 inch-pounds. KLRs from 1996 to present have their clutch spring bolts tightened down to 80 inch-pounds.
So I just did this and started her up and she ran so well but somehow my clutch cable ended up sitting right on the exhaust and it melted it!!! Fudge!!! Once I get the new cable, how do I make sure it doesn't happen again? There doesnt seem to be a lot of room for the cable to get away from the exhaust and I can't tell how its routed and where it's sitting in the video!
Kinda new to KLRs> What year is that bike? I did not see enough to help me identify the year? I have an 07, so if I tried to do this would it be the same as your video?
Be REALLY careful to not over tighten the oil plug drain bolt (it only takes 15 ft. lbs and use a new crush washer) or the foot peg bolts (don't have actual spec for this but know the nuts are soft and easily overtightened, like I did on mine). Both are easy to mess up. If you blow out your oil drain plug threads you just bought yourself a big project. If you blow out your foot peg mounts you might get some fun trying to ride without pegs out in the wild. The case metal on KLRs is soft and torque settings should be observed for pretty much all fasteners. It's really sad to try and be a responsible owner who works on your own gear and then be the cause for different damage than what you were trying to fix in the first place... Save the frustration and enjoy more riding! Cheers
Really like the videos! But this is vídeo is level 3, nota 2 jaja My mechanic Made that work on My 2009 KLR GEN2 , Here in Ecuador, was like a 5 hours so so. Good información thanks guys!!!
I followed this when I did my clutch tuesday. I let it set yesterday. When I give it gas, the bike is acting like it's in neutral? True neutral is with the light. What did I do wrong?
Thank you for the video! For my 2014 KLR650 New Edition, your site lists 92145-0796 as the spring, which is different from the part in the video. Did they change springs between 2008 and 2014? If so, what is the difference?
1988 KLR650--> apparently, the outermost fibre plate goes in the same position as all others. As my clutch basket does not have indent slots to allow positioning last plate off by 1 tooth. Thanks for another great video.
Thanks for posting this. I was just putting back my '92 and was like, wtf? Also only have 7 friction plates, not 8.
Your videos are outstanding! They are the best KLR "how to" videos I have ever viewed on TH-cam. Thank you very much and you can count on me being a new Partzilla customer. I really like the parts info you include throughout the video and appreciate the torque specs too.
Great vid, and equally importantly, superb answers to comment section questions! My only critique is the "pick a starting point and lay the case bolts out in order of removal". Undoubtedly works in a bike shop, but the guy turning wrenches in his garage has the "gremlin influences" of dog tails, cats batting around rolly bits, and kids fiddling with stuff. I suggest the "pizza box bolt jig". Just punch holes in the pizza box lid that roughly simulate the bolt arrangement on the case. Use a Philips of scratch awl of close to bolt diameter. Every pulled bolt gets immediately poked in it's lid hole, securing it from "wander lust". The pump and filter bolts can even be placed in it, in appropriately placed holes. Have to make one every time, but the few minutes spent can save an easy hour of torture trying to dope out which goes where after junior plays Jacks with them, lol. A permanent reusable version can be fashioned from Masonite, or thin plywood, or sheet plastic for those so inclined. Same for the left side too, of course.
I was worried about the order and in and out of the plates and your video put me at ease--I think I can remember to put the last friction plate off one tooth. Great job and thanks for the video!
Excellent video. I like that the fact you are clear and percise.
It is great that you mention that oil screen, as a lot of people have not heard of it on their KLR. Yours was pretty clean compared to others who have had a big mess of stuff, even after the first oil change.
Sure wish they produced this outer case like a normal dirt bike with a clutch access, but since they didn't, I'm glad you posted this video! Thanks, I overlooked the water pump gasket, looks like I'll place an order for one and get going on the disassemble.
Mmmm pliers stripping clutch cable adjuster threads , love it
This is the first of your videos that I watch and I really like it. You don't waste time going around and around. You're right on point! I learned something new today! Thanks!!!
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Fantastic Video! Well spoken and clear. Gives me confidence to give it a go. You explained a lot of potential pitfalls too. Great work!
Best video I've seen for a tutorial
Thank you for this video, i will be doing this in the next few days. looking forward. I am really good at mech work some odd reason this one is a bit scary.
would have been a good to do the mechanical seal on the impeller and the 3 oil seals in the case.you must have a great gasket scraper,the adhesive that is used on the case side from the factory was a nightmare on mine.also would be nice to see the exact appropriate grease,manual just calls for a moly disulfide,wich there are a few variations of.good vid thanx.
I followed step by step. Your video is excellent. But I am currently having an issue with oil leaking. It appears to be at the gasket, I did replace both. The water pump is not leaking but the bottom of the cover is... Any help is appreciated.
thanks for sharing your knowledge
Iam from México
I'm doing this job for a 2003. Same thint as the gen 2? No one has a up close like this video on the gen 1
Excellent Video!! Very well done!! Thank you!!
Great Video thank you. Question, do you use Gasket paste/ sealant puttty when using a new gasket? thank you
CORRECTION:
My Clymer manual says that KLRs from 1987 - 1995 have their clutch spring bolts get tightened down to 88 inch-pounds. KLRs from 1996 to present have their clutch spring bolts tightened down to 80 inch-pounds.
Awesome, so clear and concise. Thank you.
I'm in fortnine territory. Otherwise I would order these parts from you guys forsure.
So I just did this and started her up and she ran so well but somehow my clutch cable ended up sitting right on the exhaust and it melted it!!! Fudge!!! Once I get the new cable, how do I make sure it doesn't happen again? There doesnt seem to be a lot of room for the cable to get away from the exhaust and I can't tell how its routed and where it's sitting in the video!
super cool video keep them coming
Well done video. Thank you!!
What is the spray cleaner you used to strip off the clutch case gasket scraps? Brake cleaner? Excellent video!
brake cleaner or contact cleaner.
I luv your vids you teach me a lit
So I did all of this to the exact thread count on the clutch cable but bike won’t move in gear with the clutch activated
Very nice video, thank you
Kinda new to KLRs>
What year is that bike? I did not see enough to help me identify the year?
I have an 07, so if I tried to do this would it be the same as your video?
thank you for show us! but my clutch release lifter arm cannot full seat down, have 6-8mm gap, but it looks works, will have any damage inside?
It’s supposed to be that way - look up a video called - so you think you broke your clutch arm lever
Be REALLY careful to not over tighten the oil plug drain bolt (it only takes 15 ft. lbs and use a new crush washer) or the foot peg bolts (don't have actual spec for this but know the nuts are soft and easily overtightened, like I did on mine). Both are easy to mess up. If you blow out your oil drain plug threads you just bought yourself a big project. If you blow out your foot peg mounts you might get some fun trying to ride without pegs out in the wild. The case metal on KLRs is soft and torque settings should be observed for pretty much all fasteners. It's really sad to try and be a responsible owner who works on your own gear and then be the cause for different damage than what you were trying to fix in the first place... Save the frustration and enjoy more riding! Cheers
Foot pegs are easy, drill through the frame and throw in some 3/8s bolts and nuts. I’ve sheared both of mine off on rocks and this did the trick.
Really like the videos! But this is vídeo is level 3, nota 2 jaja My mechanic Made that work on My 2009 KLR GEN2 , Here in Ecuador, was like a 5 hours so so. Good información thanks guys!!!
Great vid. Thank you.
Why would the arm that connects to the cable on my klr go forward instead of straight toward the motor?
I followed this when I did my clutch tuesday. I let it set yesterday. When I give it gas, the bike is acting like it's in neutral? True neutral is with the light. What did I do wrong?
Could be the clutch was tightened to much or your springs aren't springing
Thank you for the video! For my 2014 KLR650 New Edition, your site lists 92145-0796 as the spring, which is different from the part in the video. Did they change springs between 2008 and 2014? If so, what is the difference?
There is nothing listed as to what changed. Most likely they changed size or tension.
@@PartzillaParts Okay. Thanks for the reply.
At what mileage should you replace the clutch pack?
Typically when it starts having issues.
Saludos desde Venezuela
What did you spray on to clean the old gasket?
Brake cleaner will do the trick.
Can’t find my 12mm
He went over the torque specs but never said anything about the clutch cover bolts
You wouldn't happen to be in southern California by any chance
Far away from CA. Try GA.
Show mestre!
650R
lot
Saludos desde Venezuela
Saludos desde Venezuela