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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- Easy how to guide on the replacement of the water pump seals, including mechanical oil seal. No need to remove the engine cover, can be done on the side of the road in 30 minutes.
Install done by Doc KLR from South Africa.
Had to do mine as oil was leaking from the weep hole.
Total cost R700 ~ US$43.00 including labor and drinks.
"You see that shaft? You have to be very gentle" Proceeds to battle it with screwdriver. Haha thanks for the tutorial.
I just replaced my oil seal on a 2022 KLR. Thanks for this video, btw the kit for the old KLR with the O ring and the seals fit on the new KLR there has been no new design change for these parts. You MUST buy the socket recommended in this video as a driver he is spot on recommending that kit, just order it with the rest of the stuff.
Thank you for the feedback. Engine hasn't changed much: Why throw R&D money at old rope
I think mine just started leaking with 1400 miles. How early on did yours leak?
@@motozixxer245 I think it was leaking from new, I remember seeing a little oil when i picked it up but brushed it off as some random shop oil. New bike could not be leaking oil.
Thank you for posting this! I used this video and just replaced my oil seal, mechanical seal and impeller using these directions. Worked like a charm and much easier than pulling the motor cover off. Thanks again!
Thanks for the tutorial.
I had trouble trying to pry out the metal retaining cup. I then put some gentle heat around the area and it came out quite easily (Be careful there isn't anything flammable nearby).
Local replacement parts were a ridiculous price so I bought one plus a spare one from eBay.
This is the way!
Heat gun is your friend.
I wouldn't encourage anyone to replace the waterpump seals with the crankcase cover still on the bike. That's a good way to damage the impeller housing and possibly the new seals while trying to install them. Much easier to perform this repair on a workbench, and prevent doing damage.
But, to each his own.
Completely agree...but this is Africa. Quote: Boere maak n plan
Just did it with success ........ really appreciate your production !
Thanks for sharing the tip. I changed the seal yesterday, and technique worked like a charm.
Glad to help!
Hello, mate Canadian dude here, I see that you’re still answering questions here I think it’s awesome, What was the indication that it was the seal in the first place? My coolant was empty when I inspected it after it had been stored. Just from the remnants of the fluid it appears around the water pump is where it was coming from.
@@StanTheMan-us3tp two clear signs: either oil or coolant weeping from the little hole at the bottom of the pump enclosure.
It can also occur that coolant mixes with oil in the sump. If you got a baseplate you will see liquid after a short ride once the engine has warmed up
Good Vid. Same method of replacement as the factory manual.
Hey thanks for the video! Took me about a dozen times of watching and listening, but it’s helping. Almost there, but you mention about a shim, What I gather that is the small O-ring that came in the new kit, but there wasn’t one on the bike when I disassembled the pump, it there was a small washer in that spot. Wondering if they both go on before / near the impeller. Hopefully you can answer this! Thanks again
It's been a few years since my KLR... I looked at the parts diagram, the o ring sits against the impeller then the shim.
www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-kl650c4-klr650-1998-united-kingdom-fg_model12413/partslist/E3031.html
Hola 👋 amigo, el proceso es igual para la KLR 300?
Ni idea. No es un modelo que tenemos aquí en Sudáfrica.
Thanks for showing this. worked like a charm
Glad to help. I'll upload another tech video in the near future. Maybe a doohickey workout, as it can also be done "Backyard Mechanic"style, which translates into laying the bike on a tire and taking of the engine cover.
Did this after the agent fitted the mechanical seal wrong way around! Now after 70,000k the oil seal croaked again. Waiting for parts.
70k damn good
Tried to make holes with screwdriver to the mechseal cap exactly like this tutorial. But.... No matter how hard I bend..and yank it thru the hole.. the cap won't come off! I even added extra hole (total 3 now) out of desperation and yank it again only to see it still hardly glued 😖
Help. Now the cap is so distorted.. and I don't know what else to do.
Bima Ksatria try needle nose pliers and twist the metal. Do this until it's loose.
What's your recommend if the seal choose hard mode? I found a very tiny screw driver that I been hammer the corners to make a crease to pull from and it's still choosing hard
Pour fuel over the engine, ignite it. Once the fairings run like water the seal should be soft enough to extract with a pair of dentures.
Your plan is sound. Use needle nose pliers
What kind of lube did you use to get the seal on? Would just petroleum jelly work or does it need to be engine rated?
Wheel bearing grease. As long as it works.
@@PatrickFlinner as long as what works
@@danielboekweg2919 the end result. You can also use red rubber grease.
Hola,si o si tengo q poner junta nueva si abro la tapa de la turbina de agua???
Si, reemplazar
Hmmmm, vodka as anti seize compound. I’ll have to try that!
cuantas millas tiene para que se rompa ???? muy bueno el video
Thank you (And thank you google translate). Bike had 14,000km ~ 8700 miles. 5 years old with a lot of standing periods. The seal can go at any time, it's one of those 1c cheap pieces.
hola la mi en un año tiene 10000 millas y enpezo una transpiracion de aceite no se si cambiarlo ?? o esperar un poco mas
la turvina de agua que torque de apriete le das ???
Reemplázalo. Lo último que necesita es que en su defecto en el camino. Par: Apretar a mano o compruebe el manual. Creo que fue de 22 nm.
Hi, who is the mechanic in the video giving the instructions?
Graham Thiele, doc klr
Awesome video. Did you put the new gasket on dry or did you use some gasket sealer when re-assembling and if so what type?
Just finished doing mine, went ok the mechanical seal gave me some grief made more difficult by the SW crash bars so I had to strip them off (Tank, Seat, Side Covers and right side crash bar to pry the seal out). Looked as though someones been in there before as there was slight scratching where the rubber seal sits. It all seated fine and was only a minor leak from the weep hole after re-assembly (my guess it was just the remnants of the petroleum jelly and oil being pushed out of the cavity). Yet to take it for a test ride but ran it till it was at operating temp and kept it going till the thermostat fan kicked in and no leaks after cool down so hopefully all good. Will know for sure after a proper test ride, really hoping its ok as I dont feel like stripping it down again. Crash bars whilst a functional investment can be a pain in the ass when it comes to maintenance work.
Not required if the mating surfaces have been cleaned. If you want though, try adding a bit of Hylomar, a very thin film will assist in keeping the seal in place and to prevent shifting during assembly.
My brand new 2022 with 180miles leaks oil out of the weep hole below the water pump. At an alarming rate too. Soaking the whole underside of the engine after every ride. Is that impeller oil shaft seal bad?
Yes! Take it back to the dealer asap.
Did the dealer fix it under warranty?
@@motozixxer245 no i got mad and sold it
Hey, I have just come across your video. Does the oil seal go back in with the spring first towards the engine?
www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/l/kaw/5af06f9687a86610d0133b6b/2018-klr650-kl650ejs-parts
Have a look at these diagrams. They helped me in the past.
Hey just got my clutch (2006 KLR650 16,xxx miles) done at the shop rode it 180 miles since.... began to overheat 10 mins from home, get back home, coolants 100% empty only wetspot at weephole. Oil is milkyyyyyy you cant even look in the oil peep. Would replacing these seals fix it? I think the mechanic messed them up.
First off: My condolences. The time it will take to flush that contaminated oil out...best get some cheap diesel oil for the job. Next: First you need to establish where the coolant entered the engine. If it is this seal, then its easy...anywhere else and it will require you to leave the bike in an unsavoury area with the key in the ignition.
@@PatrickFlinner thank you brother just ordered the seals will keep you posted if it works
@@PatrickFlinner took off the waterpump cover and now trying to take the impeller off but it just keeps spinning?
@@korwhyschannel did you put the engine in gear to get resistance?also I think the loosening is in reverse? It's been a while since I remembered the work
@@PatrickFlinner I got it foot on brake and in gear came right off. whole waterpumps done the o ring in the impeller was damaged to hell. Think everthings fixed Thank you so damn much for your video!!!!
Great ! Thanks
Hay, great video. Looks easy and fast. Have you any leaks/weeping since the replacement?
+scooter_kenny Thanks. No leaks, no weeps.
+Patrick Flinner thank you..question, was yours leaking quite a bit or a drop from time to time?
+scooter_kenny It was weeping a few drops, noticed it as the dust from the offroad started making a sludge river. Could've left it, but I would rather keep my bikes in pristine shape.
thanks for the video.would be awesome if it had English subtitles.
...and ruin the sounds of the second sexiest accent in the world (2018)?
i couldn't tell if it was a accent or if that dude was making up his own language as he was going.great vid tho and u can tell hes a experienced technician.
what spot with the screwdriver are you hammering on?
I drained the oil as I changed the filter as well, but no you could just tip the bike over and work from there, same with the doohickey repair. Screwdriver is resting on the little piedish (no better word comes to mind), you only need to bend it in order to remove it via lever action.
lajunta va dentro del rotor no donde la pones jet k fallo
did you drain the oil first?
You can. Else just tip it over.
What parts do I need to do this? Thank you!
Oil seal, hammer, screwdriver, 3 beers, some lube, Barry White music....
Here's the real lazy way: Go on ebay and order a replacement clutch cover with seals already installed (have the seller inspect them to make sure they are not damaged) and just replace your old cover. That's what I did for $50, no more leaks lol
No fair! That's a level of laziness that I would aspire to
Is the actual shaft supposed to spin? Or just the impeller?
Impeller attached to shaft, becomes one unit
Okay. I did this but have a small coolant leak from weep hole. I have the shim and washer in the correct places. Also the mech seal is nice and level and in place well. I have no idea what the issue is. Any ideas?
@@Drew.407 Phhhh...only thing that comes to mind is that the seal is nicked during install or the shaft is worn allowing coolant past, best case scenario a bit of dirt got in the seal.
Can I use a bit of rtv or gasket maker around the rim of the mech seal?
@@Drew.407 ...uhm. I am not one for quick fixes. Rather find out what is wrong and go from there. A new seal is cheap vs being stuck on the side of the road.
Is it necessary to drain the engine oil?
No, you can lay the bike on its side, but if anything drops in....
what size socket is that? 22" what?
12 point
Is the water pump seal the same as the mechanical seal? Is the mechanical seal just another name for the water pump seal?
By the way, this video is going to be a HUGE help, I can't thank you enough for making this video. I can't wait to fix the oil leak in my bike!
You are most welcome. On the seal question: No idea. KLR650 manual is still floating around on the net. It would be your best guide...password was "Doohickey"if I recall correctly.
Thank you. After about 2 hours of researching I think I have found everything I need. I am basically replacing the whole water pump and ever seal, lol.
Actually, you may be able to answer another question for me. When I was removing the mechanical seal, I dented up the water pump housing a little, do you think that I can still use the water pump housing with a few little nicks?
...how bad? If it impedes the function then scrap it. If it's on the sealing section you may get away with it...maybe. Treat with caution.
9.8 Nm on that impeller hahahahahah love ya video !!
hay no hace na
Wish you showed what was going on off camera
Nothing special, bare naked ladies drinking beer from the holy grail.
Patrick Flinner that would’ve been a great help
too much babbling,,,,inaudible content
We get paid per syllable
Just did it with success ........ really appreciate your production !
do you have to drain the oil?
no