2006-2010 VW Jetta MK5 Front & Rear Brake Replacement
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ต.ค. 2024
- What's up everybody!
This is a DIY how-to on replacing Front & Rear Brakes/Rotors on a 2006-2010 5th Gen. MK5 Volkswagen Jetta. Brake Pad Wear Indicator Light reviewed in video, as well as un-freezing frozen/stuck calipers.
*DISCLAIMER: I am NOT a Master Tech, just a long time wrencher.
Car in video is a 2008 VW Jetta 2.5L.
MUSIC:
Ballpoint-Mr. Lawrence
Everything else I’ve watched emphasized the “special caliper compression tool” because the piston has to spin clockwise in. That said, its interesting your basic C clamp actually spun the piston in…🤙
A special tool is indeed required to do the rear pistons. I should have noted that in the video for those who don’t/didn’t have to endure the pain of unfreezing them as I did.
But nonetheless…….a C-clamp can definitely be used! The piston just needs to spin back in, and as you can see in the video it can rotate the piston to the right when turned/cranked on, rotating it in.
So IMO you can use the speciality tool, or a C-clamp successfully. As long as the piston is freely moving, you can get the c-clamp to spin the piston while turning it.
For reference for anyone interested, ALLDATA has the correct brake tool listed as part # T10165.
love ot very well explained !! thanks for your time !
Appreciate the comment 🙏
Hey thanks for answering my question on your other vid about the nissan CVT. I thought I could help out here as this is the same as my 2007 Rabbit (Funny I have 2016 Rogue much the same as your altima and the rabbit similar to this). I like to DIY it rather than getting the proper brake tool so use a C-Clamp too. The rear calipers do get stiff, but what I have found is you can use channel locks to get them turning. Put a bit of pressure on, turn with the channel locks then tighten the clamp a bit more and repeat. If you are ever doing it again and want to try that rather than heat.
Hey what’s up man, that is pretty random that two of my recent videos would pertain to you lol. But I know some use channel locks retract pistons, but personally I’ve never used them to retract a piston....But not a bad suggestion. But I promise you, no channel lock was working on these lol. I have a wide variety of brake tools I could utilize to retract pistons, multiple style pad separators, multiple c-clamps, the cube, and the most efficient retractor I own...which is typically successful on stiffer calipers, a ratchet separator. But these things were FROZEN, nothing was gonna work on these without some heat persuasion, the ratchet didn’t even budge them. Honestly, I’m sure someone else probably would have replaced them after trying multiple retractors and them not budging. I’ve done my fair share of brakes jobs, and typically the rear is usually stiffer because they tend to be more prolonged and neglected vs. the front. I’ve had the ratchet separator free up some pretty stiff rears that a C-clamp couldn’t budge, and 9 times out of 10 the ratchet can handle it...but sometimes these neglected rears can be really frozen, like these for example, that for me heat is a quick and easy solution, and really frees that piston up to move as freely as it should. I’ve had about 3-4 cars I’ve successfully done it with.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Cool, maybe I'll have to try heat next time I do the rear brakes. I just wanted to clarify that I wasn't using the channellocks to compress the piston. I know some people open them wide and press with them. The C-Clamp was doing the pressing and the locks were used perpendicular to piston to rotate it while the pressure was on with the C-Clamp if that makes sense. Anyway keep the videos coming, I've been enjoying them and all your torque specs!
@@jalmolky Ahh i got ya! Nothing wrong with that, definitely multiple ways and tools to accurately retract a piston. But definitely man, I appreciate it 🙏
Holy shit bro. It's a twist in piston on that rear caliper. Put the torch away and get the right tool.
Ahhh Victor……@ 26:15. I’m well aware it’s a twist in caliper. It has nothing to do with “the right tool”, but everything to do with the caliper being COMPLETELY frozen. I have every brake caliper tool under the sun including the caliper-cube, which I’m sure is what you’re suggesting is the “right tool”. However, a c-clamp can be used just as successfully….as you saw if you watch the video from 26:15 to 29:55. As you can clearly see, the caliper boot and caliper were completely fine and normal @ 29:55 (and the calipers on this car now function perfectly again). There are multiple caliper tools that can be used here successfully & correctly, not just one “right tool”. Once the piston was free’d up the clockwise turns of the c-clamp actually twist this piston in, as you can see in the video.
This is a last resort method to save a completely frozen caliper without having to go buy new one(s). If the caliper boot isn’t ripped, and the caliper is in good shape and not compromised, there is a great chance it can still be saved with some heat/this method, as it was on this car.
I could have left that out…threw a cube on a ratchet after I heated/free’d it up, and just retracted it as is if the caliper was perfectly fine, and you or anybody else wouldn’t have known the difference. But I included this because most jobs don’t go as smoothly as a TH-cam video showcases, and I decided to show how to overcome obstacles if you happen to encounter one, just like this.
Mmmm kaayyy 5 Jetta 😂great vid 👌🏻
😆😆😆👍👍👍
Is it required to put the grooves in the piston in any particular alignment? Getting ready to tackle this project.
Been a while since I’ve done this car, so I don’t remember off the top of my head. If I didn’t mention it in the video, then it would be no. I would have noted it if so. Usually thats only necessary when there is a notch in the pad that corresponds with the grooving of piston.
Just curious, why didn't you open the bleeder valve?
If you mean in reference to the rears & them being frozen, I just didn’t want to bleed them lol…but, in addition…I’ve dealt with frozen rears quite a few times before, and a couple times I tried opening the bleeder in hopes of it assisting with the retraction, and it did nothing. Still had to torch them to free them up. So with the experiences I have with frozen rears & torching being the only process that successfully frees them up, I just see no need to open bleeder valve personally.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I should have been more detailed in my question. I meant why didn't you open the bleeder valve when you used the c clamp?
@@allen41795 just generally speaking its not necessary.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee oh, I thought it could blow the brake pump
@@allen41795 no, not at all. In fact, if you look at most factory service manuals, they suggest/recommend just removing the master cylinder cap, and/or turkey-bastering some fluid out so it doesn’t overflow from the compressing of the piston.