I have to say that what I absolutely loved the most is that you take the time to make the old parts look like new again! That is exactly how I like to do my work every chance I get!💪🏽💪🏽
Man dont stop making these old dodge videos they work for my d250 and the quality is actually really good i just wish you lived next to me mine has 87k miles and its a 90 so everything is starting to need to be replaced and your the only one on here that actually uploads videos worth watch for these old beasts.
@@JasonExplainsThings aliment went out on mine and I need new front tires so out goes alot of my spare money for replacing the fenders grill etc as it's all either damaged or the plastic is cracked then I am going to replace it but I think it can wait a while longer 31 years is a lone time what's one more lol
I really appreciate all your videos. I have basically the exact same truck it’s just all white. And everytime I’m doing something it looks like you’ve already done. Very thorough and I love the links and torque specs. Thanks Jason
This is GREAT. I have an 89 D150 my dad bought new. I have owned it since 1998. It's parked in my shop now ready for an engine/trans removal for rebuild, as well as the front end. The suspension is why I took it off the road about 10 years ago and this video is going to help substantially. Thank you for posting this!!
I have a 1978 D150 I picked up that came from Montana. It's in great physical shape, but I'm working on the fuel system. It looks like everything that came on this truck besides tires and belts were still original. I've installed a new electric fuel pump, fuel filters, fuel sending unit and hoses as the fuel lines looked to be in good condition. The tank behind the seat was already removed so it's only using the auxiliary tank. I changed the valve cover gaskets that again looked like they were from 1978, but now I'm going thru the wiring under the hood. Maybe over the winter I'll do the suspension as I live in Wisconsin and don't intend to drive it during the winter. This video is one of the best I've seen and really the only one dealing this precisely with a D150! Thank you!
I Wanna start restoring old trucks with my dad, and the first gen dodges have my heart! the 1989 is probably my favorite ram, and you added a lot of detail and fun into this video to make it all the more enjoyable to learn from!
I’m so happy for your great result! I have an ‘85 D150 that’s in that 35 year old life stage of being taken care of. I’ve been replacing things here and there: front brake disks, pads, transmission filter, along with regular maintenance. It’s hard to come by good videos for such a nice old truck. You’re doing great, and I love your videos 👍🏼
Jason! I asked you for this video a while back and you did not disappoint! I have an 86 D150 and been wanting to take on this project. Now I have all the time in the world and the video to help me out, so I can't thank you enough! keep them rolling out with the ol truck!
Nice job guy. Love dodge trucks. Instead of buying that special socket. A pipe wrench with a break bar works well. When installing the bushings. A cold and heat treatment works well. Put one component in the freezer usually the small part and a toaster oven will heat up the other part. If you can sweat talk the wife into a tool. It is worth it. A small heating device. It will have heating coils exposed. It will give you directions how to use it. Great on older trucks or weathered parts. Snap ON has a version but there are cheaper. Ones out there. Sometimes you can find complete upgraded parts. Such as the upper control arm. Some are even a little better. For peace of mind. To get the tabs or ears checked to see if they need to be wield. After x amount of years those tabs weaken. Having them checked or strength is a good idea. Thanks for the video.
This video came out fantastic. I can see why it took such a long time but the details did not disappoint. I’m going to do the same thing to mine here soon get rid of the clunk. It’s so good I’m watching it right now for the second time
I just bought a the same exact truck and I am so happy to see an entire video series. Your videos are very well done and I am learning a lot of nice tips and tricks. Only issue I have run into so far is finding the lock actuators so I am going to have to use a universal kit, will probably upgrade to remote entry while I am at it.
I hate that these videos are so clear and thourough and informative, because I inevitably come back to watch a guy with a lot more money than me, use his much nicer tools, in his much nicer garage, to fix his much nicer truck. But the front wheel is rubbing on my junk-heap of a D250, so here we are again.
Dude. What’s with the negativity on what I have or what you have? First this truck was $1800 and had tons of issues. 7 years later it’s in good shape. And if 41 years being alive has taught me anything it’s that money comes and it goes. I’ve made $5.50 an hour working at a car wash. I’ve also made a great living, only to be laid off twice in the past 5 years. Now I have an amazing job that I love directly from doing TH-cam videos as a hobby. Don’t get down on yourself. Work hard, ask others for help, seek God’s wisdom. And if my videos piss you off… then please block this channel.
I’d rather watch a guy admitting he messed up and shows you why and the solution to a guy who appears perfect. No one learns much for that. Transparency is king and to reason this guy gets a follow!
The production value on this video is amazing. Super underrated channel. I've been watching your lawn videos on repeat waiting for my dethatcher to show up so I can get going on my lawn this year.
You are the best! Just watched your video and about 90% of what you showed matches up to the suspension on my '96 dakota. Your trick with the bolt and coupler to seperate the lower ball joint helped me a ton.
Just starting my '72 D200 project. I just started checking out the condition of the brakes and thought, man, I should clean up this suspension! Definitely going to happen now that I've seen it done. Thanks!
I’m setting in my yard doing the same thing I was trying to find the torque specs for the upper ball joint all I could find on the internet was the nut specs. But hot dog when I seen you about to push them out I was like yep there they go but at least you caught it in the end and thanks for the info .. 150ft lbs done.
I will be starting this exact same job, eventually. 74 though, not a new fangled truck with air conditioning, and power windows. Going to start with 4 new springs, and 4 new shocks. New steering parts can wait till next year. Dad bought me this truck in 1990, when I graduated high school. It has been in retirement for 20 years. One thing about the Mopar slant 6; only it and cockroaches will still be here after the nuclear apocalypse. D100 number 126536, off the Warren assembly line. Will start work on acquiring that Haynes manual.
As an old Mopar guy, I was confused as to why my 84 d150 didn't have have the "flats" on the heads to use my ball joint sockets on. So it's not just young guys like you that get confused over Mopar ball joints.
That HF ball joint press is a great tool. The most common use I’ve found for it is in replacing U joints on my Jeep. I carry mine in the Jeep when off-roading and it has come in handy a couple times to help people fix their broken junk.
I swapped my d250 suspension drivetrain and breaking system with a d350 this video helped thanks. Sidenote for the upper control arms you can weld In a bung for the uppers if you messed it up with a press or the threads were bad.
You have made the video I have been looking for. I have started on my 74 D100 so far I have changed the tie rods and sleeves. This is the only good video I have found pertaining to my truck….maybe I should say the best thus far. Thanks and I have subscribed also you know they make inserts for if the threads are trashed on the upper a-arm they are weld in after you cut the old thread but changing the control arm works as well and less time.
The bolt as a ball joint separator is cool. If you’ve ever seen the ones you can buy or rent from your auto parts store, they use a fine thread bolt. This means you are able to apply more torque per 1 revolution of said bolt.
In the future if any body does the upper control arm bushings you can buy a section of iron pipe and cut it to fit snug between where the bushings get pressed in so you can install them with out bend out of alignment the ends of the control arms . I use a shop press to put them in
I love your videos cause your truck is very similar to mine as mine is a 1985 d150. Your way of explaining things is easy and down to earth. They help me fix things on my truck. Keep up the great videos
This is a lot of work. I did to my '88 D100 I bought new. 169K and everything was wore out. I used new Dodge van lower control arms to lower the front and flipped the rear axle on top of the leafs to lower the rear. Took me two months of shop work. Get a lot of questions on how I lowered it. This generation of Dodge isn't very well supported in the aftermarket.
I did the exact same thing to my truck its an amazing difference. One other amazing upper grade I wish had done years before was body bushings rides better and quieter
Awesome. If you could also show rear spring coils and leaf will be great. I have D150 1992 wanted to raise the bad to handle more weight. Thanks a lot.
I have an 89 ramcharger and you have the most informative video out here on this subject. Thank You very much. Now i need more than my tiny disability income money and, as i have some of the new parts, a place to work on it. The apartments i live in forbid working on our vehicles in parking lot. A bain to small income doit yourselfers. Coorperate greed is unconcerned on needs of us. 😀😊😎🏁
I have a lot of respect for people that keep old cars/trucks running ! What’s your recording setup ? I got some videos up but I need to get my video quality up
Thanks Money Pit! I use Sony Mirrorless cameras. The A7iii is my main camera, A6300 is my b camera, and then gopros and an iphone. Wireless mic is a Rode Wireless Go.
Bought to do the suspension on my 93 D250 cummins. Think I’m gunna go with the far from stock upper and lower control arms. Kinda cool I have an old dodge truck and 69 bug
I'm about to buy a 93 4speed, it's a magnum, not sure if that's the 5.9, has some miles 225k I think but it looks in good shape, Oklahoma truck so shouldn't have rust.
Great video. I am doing the same to my 85 D100. Question, do you have a parts list from MOOG? Also, how did you find all that for $450 ish? My moog order for the same stuff is $700+. Thanks!!!
Well, I enjoyed this video and the best part is the "dis" to twitter. yea baby. I have a 91 1st Gen. pre ECU (they were 91.5) diesel and I am getting ready to do this to my front end. all original parts. Should be a good experience. I have a shop across the street that I will have the bushings and ball joints removed and install the new ones on the control arms for about what the press would cost. Again thanks for the great video
@@JasonExplainsThings I ended up going a different way. I went and purchased NEW old Stock complete Dodge Upper Control Arm with ball joints and bushings$269.00 for both, so after fighting the rebuild of arms, I actually bent one. so just look and you can find the NEW old stock, the company purchased all the control arms from Dodge. all new tie-rods etc. Fantastic riding now. Great video
Thanks for this video! I am replacing all this on my 84. Questions, the ears on the pass side brackets for the upper control arm where the bolts go through are broken off. Any idea if that makes any difference? The other side is there but they do not seem to hold anything in place.
Yup, very on point with what needs doing on my 84 Dodge D100. Gotta clean up the suspension and get it realigned. I won't be happy until everything is new or like new and painted. I will be buried in this truck one day so I want everything tip top.
Thanks for sharing your video. I bought a 82 d150. I'm trying to get it lifted. It's a struggle finding lift parts. Anyway love the video. Put up some more.
One more question…..did you jack the truck up to when it was just coming off the jackstands when you tightened the control arm bushings? Was about to tighten mine at that point but it seemed like the control arms should be a bit higher. I don’t know I may have to have some people sit in the cab on each side to delay the truck rising off the stands in order to get the control arms in a “ride height” condition.
Yeah man and you're doing it right if you're going to do something do it right the first time repainting all the old parts absolutely I usually put rust inhibitor under the paint it's called extend great product and you can paint over it it's sterilizes the rust I learned that from my many years of auto body work thank you very much I appreciate you God bless
Thank you for this. Just started working on my 87 dodge. (Also started working on cars and trucks in general) Its fun and this helped out a ton dude thanks 🤙 Edited now my comment makes more sense
Awesome video! You should do a video on how to repair some electrical components because my ‘87 D100 just decided that it doesn’t want to receive a signal from the ignition cylinder to start.. somewhere between the ignition and the starter relay is not getting a signal
When you wiped out the threads on the upper control arm where did you source new ones? WSD are the ones that I can find new ones at. I remembered that the upper one was threaded but even so the threads got damaged while unscrewing it. My truck is a 74 so I assume the upper ball joints have been in the A arm since new (48 years).
Very nice video, it is very very helpful to me. I'm doing the same right now on my 92 D250 Cummins. One question, do the upper control bushings have that sleeve on both bushings or just on 1 bushing? After removing the bushings i've only found 1. Nice informative channel, thank you.
I have the same truck. Mine drives really loose. I really want to redo it so it's still soft and smooth but can handle the speed the cummins and down mountain travel can demand.
Your truck looks "leveled" after the front end work. I have a 1988 (5.2L (318)) and the front end is quite low with very little clearance between the tires and the fender. Was the Coil Spring Insulator MOOG K160037 an OEM install, or something you added? Did you notice the front end higher after installing the new springs?
Where did you find the coil spring isolator rubber piece? I have looked everywhere for them. Im doing a frame off rebuild of an '86 D150 short bed lowered with a modern Gen 3 hemi. Thanks for the how to video.
@@JasonExplainsThings thank you. It is strange because Moog does not show these as fitting earlier than '92 trucks. Im going to order them to see how well they fit the new springs.
I noticed your coil spring part number was 7172 on the box of the video. But on the description is says 7170 which is up to 1989 Dodges Could you confirm on your amazon purchase if it was 7172 or 7170 ?
Look love the vedio very helpful I'm fixen to have to do the same really soon to my 1988 dodge. I have recently started restoring them and reselling them but have one question that's not yet made by your vedios covering the dodge is the fuel components once they break where do u find aftermarket or parts????? One of mine broke and u cant by the model?????
Thank you for this video. I have a 1992 D350 with a Cummings diesel. It’s a 2 wheel drive,I know yours is a 1/2 ton & mine is a 1 ton but the front ends are the same. I sure mine is a bit heavier. I am having problems with my upper a arms,when I unthreaded the upper ball joint most of the threads came with it. I know you said you found some replacement ones that were not oem ones. They worked, but you said you were not real happy with them. Were you able too find some oem ones? If so where? Or maybe you have found a better way to fix them, would really appreciate any help you can give me on this.
Very cool this video, it helped me a lot in the maintenance of my pickup. Can you tell me if the K7077 control arm bushing and the Moog 7170 springs are compatible for a 1983 D250 3/4t pickup? Thanks Jason!
Love your videos!! Quick question on the Coil Springs. I see in the video you have the Moog 7172, but link the 7170s. The 7170s are readily available, but I am looking for the slightly taller 7172 springs. Any ideas? Thank you!
Hey Jason i am currently redoing my front suspension on my 88 dodge d250 but i need new upper control arms i was just curious where you purchased yours as all the places I’ve looked say its discontinued
Great video brother, helped immensely!!!! Any thoughts on the moog strut rid bushing? My instructions said to have both retaining washers facing the same way, the washers even were engraved with directional guides. It makes the inner retainer cup back towards the control arm and just doesnt seem legit. Any suggestions?
If I'm understanding you correctly I had the same issue you did. I did it the way they were labeled first, but it didn't seem right so I reversed it as you see in the video. No issues 1.5 years later. :-)
I know I'm a bit late to the party on this video, but I have an 87 D150 and let me share some wisdom with everyone. There are a couple major issues with the way you showed this job that could seriously impair someone's rebuild, like it almost did for mine. First off: You don't need to add weight to the coil spring to remove the knuckle, in fact I'd really recommend not doing that. You're actually more likely to hurt yourself; instead, place a block under the unloaded suspension with about a half inch gap between it and the lower arm. Next, in order to pop the ball joints free, loosen both upper and lower nuts to about a 1/4 inch gap, and strike the knuckle, not the ball joint stud. This will shock them loose way faster without hurting the joint or threads. You can then loosen the joints until all the tension is gone. Now, about the upper arm bushings: CUT THOSE INNER SLEEVES OFF. That pressed on sleeve can become so rusted it almost cold welds to the bushing ends, and you'll deform the chamfered upper arm area pressing it out no matter what. Cut a diagonal groove all the way through the inner sleeves to loosen the tension, you don't have to cut the whole sleeve in half just most of the way, and DONT CUT THE ARM in the process, it's already a thin area. I find a small diameter cutting wheel works best. Those sleeves do not provide any support if you look at them, It was an idea Mopar had but since it's not welded to the upper arm it just kinda floats there. Many cars only had one sleeve per arm, not two. Does it add a bit of rigidity to the bushing? Sure, but bending the arm trying to save it costs a lot of money and time. My truck has run perfectly for 9 years without them. And finally, advice for pressing out/in ball joints or bushings: put tension on the press tool and then whack the arm area around the joint/bushing with a brass hammer or drift punch. This both shocks the joint and settles it, AND keeps it straight as it presses out/in. ALWAYS do this as your new joint/bushing may appear seated but will loosen as you drive, either affecting your alignment or worse, snapping a ball joint if you hit a pothole and it settles it too forcefully.
Hey Jason, First of all, I love the video. You did an excellent job of going into great detail of everything you did on your truck. However, I do have one particular question for you though. I understand you stripped the threads in the upper control arm while pressing out the existing ball joint on the driver’s side. I was just wandering whether or not you repaired or replaced the existing control arm? If you repaired it, how exactly did you go about doing that? If you replaced the entire control arm, where were you able to find a new one? Right now, I am currently doing a front end rebuild on my 2WD 91 Dodge D-350 and ended up stripping the threads on the upper control arm as well. I looked on a lot of websites where I get parts for my truck and couldn’t find any new control arms. What would you recommend? Thanks, -Preston
Hey Jason; had another question for you. I was installing the new center link on my 91 Dodge D-350, and noticed the holes of the cotter pins would not line up when the castle nuts were torqued. I then remembered there was a rubber spacer that came off of each side of the existing center link. Upon discovering this, I realized the new center link didn’t come with that spacer. I tried calling Carquest to see if they’d be able to get me that part, but were unable to. Did you happen to run into this issue as well? If so, how did you resolve it?
Personally i would have greased the mating surfaces of all the press in stuff, makes assembly and future disassembly easier. And i would not have used locktite on the balljoint tapers. It doesnt need it with the tapered mating surfaces and the castle nuts, theres no way theyre going to loosen. And it will make future disassembly significantly harder even with just blue locktite
Bummer! They’re from a seller on eBay. Unfortunately they are not a great aftermarket part… I’m actually looking for an OEM set to replace them down the road.
Ready to see a spark plug video! You’re the only one making d150 vids worth watching
Thanks Cassandra! They were just changed before I bought the truck so it may be awhile. Please share the videos with others. :-)
I give you a lot of credit, most people don't work on their own vehicles. Much less video it and share the mistakes. Thank you for being real.
I keep coming back to this video for my old dodges now I'm working on a 1st gen cummins
Me too buddy, just got my first diesel, 89 2wd single cab Cummins 💪
I have to say that what I absolutely loved the most is that you take the time to make the old parts look like new again! That is exactly how I like to do my work every chance I get!💪🏽💪🏽
Man dont stop making these old dodge videos they work for my d250 and the quality is actually really good i just wish you lived next to me mine has 87k miles and its a 90 so everything is starting to need to be replaced and your the only one on here that actually uploads videos worth watch for these old beasts.
More are coming. The crazy heat is keeping me from doing several projects I already have parts for.
@@JasonExplainsThings aliment went out on mine and I need new front tires so out goes alot of my spare money for replacing the fenders grill etc as it's all either damaged or the plastic is cracked then I am going to replace it but I think it can wait a while longer 31 years is a lone time what's one more lol
I really appreciate all your videos. I have basically the exact same truck it’s just all white. And everytime I’m doing something it looks like you’ve already done. Very thorough and I love the links and torque specs. Thanks Jason
This is GREAT. I have an 89 D150 my dad bought new. I have owned it since 1998. It's parked in my shop now ready for an engine/trans removal for rebuild, as well as the front end. The suspension is why I took it off the road about 10 years ago and this video is going to help substantially. Thank you for posting this!!
I have a 1978 D150 I picked up that came from Montana. It's in great physical shape, but I'm working on the fuel system. It looks like everything that came on this truck besides tires and belts were still original. I've installed a new electric fuel pump, fuel filters, fuel sending unit and hoses as the fuel lines looked to be in good condition. The tank behind the seat was already removed so it's only using the auxiliary tank. I changed the valve cover gaskets that again looked like they were from 1978, but now I'm going thru the wiring under the hood. Maybe over the winter I'll do the suspension as I live in Wisconsin and don't intend to drive it during the winter. This video is one of the best I've seen and really the only one dealing this precisely with a D150! Thank you!
I Wanna start restoring old trucks with my dad, and the first gen dodges have my heart! the 1989 is probably my favorite ram, and you added a lot of detail and fun into this video to make it all the more enjoyable to learn from!
I’m so happy for your great result! I have an ‘85 D150 that’s in that 35 year old life stage of being taken care of. I’ve been replacing things here and there: front brake disks, pads, transmission filter, along with regular maintenance. It’s hard to come by good videos for such a nice old truck. You’re doing great, and I love your videos 👍🏼
Jason! I asked you for this video a while back and you did not disappoint! I have an 86 D150 and been wanting to take on this project. Now I have all the time in the world and the video to help me out, so I can't thank you enough! keep them rolling out with the ol truck!
Awesome! Glad it helped.
Nice job guy. Love dodge trucks. Instead of buying that special socket. A pipe wrench with a break bar works well. When installing the bushings. A cold and heat treatment works well. Put one component in the freezer usually the small part and a toaster oven will heat up the other part. If you can sweat talk the wife into a tool. It is worth it. A small heating device. It will have heating coils exposed. It will give you directions how to use it. Great on older trucks or weathered parts. Snap ON has a version but there are cheaper. Ones out there. Sometimes you can find complete upgraded parts. Such as the upper control arm. Some are even a little better. For peace of mind. To get the tabs or ears checked to see if they need to be wield. After x amount of years those tabs weaken. Having them checked or strength is a good idea. Thanks for the video.
This video came out fantastic. I can see why it took such a long time but the details did not disappoint. I’m going to do the same thing to mine here soon get rid of the clunk. It’s so good I’m watching it right now for the second time
I just bought a the same exact truck and I am so happy to see an entire video series. Your videos are very well done and I am learning a lot of nice tips and tricks. Only issue I have run into so far is finding the lock actuators so I am going to have to use a universal kit, will probably upgrade to remote entry while I am at it.
I hate that these videos are so clear and thourough and informative, because I inevitably come back to watch a guy with a lot more money than me, use his much nicer tools, in his much nicer garage, to fix his much nicer truck. But the front wheel is rubbing on my junk-heap of a D250, so here we are again.
Dude. What’s with the negativity on what I have or what you have? First this truck was $1800 and had tons of issues. 7 years later it’s in good shape.
And if 41 years being alive has taught me anything it’s that money comes and it goes. I’ve made $5.50 an hour working at a car wash. I’ve also made a great living, only to be laid off twice in the past 5 years. Now I have an amazing job that I love directly from doing TH-cam videos as a hobby. Don’t get down on yourself. Work hard, ask others for help, seek God’s wisdom. And if my videos piss you off… then please block this channel.
I’d rather watch a guy admitting he messed up and shows you why and the solution to a guy who appears perfect. No one learns much for that. Transparency is king and to reason this guy gets a follow!
Many thanks man.
The production value on this video is amazing. Super underrated channel. I've been watching your lawn videos on repeat waiting for my dethatcher to show up so I can get going on my lawn this year.
Thanks very much! Pretty good for a one man band. Happy dethatching!
Just got a 1993 Dakota LE single cab 2wd in poppy red! Gonna be rebuilding the front end in a few weeks! 👍👍👍👍
You are the best! Just watched your video and about 90% of what you showed matches up to the suspension on my '96 dakota. Your trick with the bolt and coupler to seperate the lower ball joint helped me a ton.
Awesome! Glad to hear it!
Just starting my '72 D200 project. I just started checking out the condition of the brakes and thought, man, I should clean up this suspension! Definitely going to happen now that I've seen it done. Thanks!
Excellent video. Probably the best channel on fixing the Gen 1 truck that I’ve seen so far.
Very well done. I have an 83 I completely restored. I like how you was honest and very informative
I’m setting in my yard doing the same thing I was trying to find the torque specs for the upper ball joint all I could find on the internet was the nut specs.
But hot dog when I seen you about to push them out I was like yep there they go but at least you caught it in the end and thanks for the info ..
150ft lbs done.
I've watched this like 6 times and it's saved me a lot while doing this on my 77 dodge. Thank you for the amazing content!!!!!
Rad! That means a lot man. Thanks.
I will be starting this exact same job, eventually. 74 though, not a new fangled truck with air conditioning, and power windows.
Going to start with 4 new springs, and 4 new shocks. New steering parts can wait till next year.
Dad bought me this truck in 1990, when I graduated high school. It has been in retirement for 20 years. One thing about the Mopar slant 6; only it and cockroaches will still be here after the nuclear apocalypse. D100 number 126536, off the Warren assembly line.
Will start work on acquiring that Haynes manual.
This truck doesn’t have AC or power windows. 🤘
Great video as always. Front end work is often ignored or sent to the shop when it can be done in the driveway. Love the Old Dodge videos.
Love seeing this old Dodge.getting new life!
Watches video for 10 times to make sure I understand , Thank you for your content!
Thanks for stopping by.
As an old Mopar guy, I was confused as to why my 84 d150 didn't have have the "flats" on the heads to use my ball joint sockets on. So it's not just young guys like you that get confused over Mopar ball joints.
I have a 88 I’ve had I’m doing a gen 3 hemi swap in and doing holleys 3 inch drop control arms and this video is gonna help immensely !
That HF ball joint press is a great tool. The most common use I’ve found for it is in replacing U joints on my Jeep. I carry mine in the Jeep when off-roading and it has come in handy a couple times to help people fix their broken junk.
Nice! Used this for the front shocks on my 77 D100. Thought I'd have to pull the coils. Saved me some work.
I swapped my d250 suspension drivetrain and breaking system with a d350 this video helped thanks. Sidenote for the upper control arms you can weld In a bung for the uppers if you messed it up with a press or the threads were bad.
Man thats a good looking Old Dodge D150 man and I like that intro as well. It reminds me of the car commercial in the 80s.
GREAT VIDEO! I'm about to restore my Ram Charger and this was helpful
Love it I have a 1999 dodge ram van and was wondering how to rebuild the front end on it basically the same thing but nice video
You have made the video I have been looking for. I have started on my 74 D100 so far I have changed the tie rods and sleeves. This is the only good video I have found pertaining to my truck….maybe I should say the best thus far. Thanks and I have subscribed also you know they make inserts for if the threads are trashed on the upper a-arm they are weld in after you cut the old thread but changing the control arm works as well and less time.
Yeah I need to learn to weld. It's on the list!
@@JasonExplainsThings once you do it’s a valuable skill to have in your repair arsenal.
My bushings look like that! Cool you have an entire video for the job im trying to do. Thanks!
This truck was made back when you could fix something without disassembling 75% of the front end.
😂 Yep.
Using this vid for my front end rebuild! Laptop is on my fender as I go along! Thank you so much!
That's awesome! Glad it's helpful. If you can pick up a Haynes manual too. That was my bible doing this job.
@@JasonExplainsThings i have a Haynes and a Clymer. But seeing it done is everything! Ty!
Love your junior mechanic in his cameo roll.
The bolt as a ball joint separator is cool. If you’ve ever seen the ones you can buy or rent from your auto parts store, they use a fine thread bolt. This means you are able to apply more torque per 1 revolution of said bolt.
In the future if any body does the upper control arm bushings you can buy a section of iron pipe and cut it to fit snug between where the bushings get pressed in so you can install them with out bend out of alignment the ends of the control arms . I use a shop press to put them in
I love your videos cause your truck is very similar to mine as mine is a 1985 d150. Your way of explaining things is easy and down to earth. They help me fix things on my truck. Keep up the great videos
a light coating of grease makes the installation easier. Good video.
This is a lot of work. I did to my '88 D100 I bought new. 169K and everything was wore out. I used new Dodge van lower control arms to lower the front and flipped the rear axle on top of the leafs to lower the rear. Took me two months of shop work. Get a lot of questions on how I lowered it. This generation of Dodge isn't very well supported in the aftermarket.
Do you have a video or guidance on lowering project that might help the underknowledged??? 😀😊😎
Yes I would love to see a video on lowering the rear end I have a 1986 dodge d100 I'm
restoring
I did the exact same thing to my truck its an amazing difference. One other amazing upper grade I wish had done years before was body bushings rides better and quieter
Did you get rubber or polyurethane? All I could find was poly.
Awesome. If you could also show rear spring coils and leaf will be great. I have D150 1992 wanted to raise the bad to handle more weight. Thanks a lot.
I have an 89 ramcharger and you have the most informative video out here on this subject. Thank You very much. Now i need more than my tiny disability income money and, as i have some of the new parts, a place to work on it. The apartments i live in forbid working on our vehicles in parking lot. A bain to small income doit yourselfers. Coorperate greed is unconcerned on needs of us. 😀😊😎🏁
I remember those days. I got some weird looks doing work on my car when I lived in an apartment.
I have a lot of respect for people that keep old cars/trucks running ! What’s your recording setup ? I got some videos up but I need to get my video quality up
Thanks Money Pit! I use Sony Mirrorless cameras. The A7iii is my main camera, A6300 is my b camera, and then gopros and an iphone. Wireless mic is a Rode Wireless Go.
Bought to do the suspension on my 93 D250 cummins. Think I’m gunna go with the far from stock upper and lower control arms. Kinda cool I have an old dodge truck and 69 bug
Good taste! 😎
I'm about to buy a 93 4speed, it's a magnum, not sure if that's the 5.9, has some miles 225k I think but it looks in good shape, Oklahoma truck so shouldn't have rust.
Jason is a total nerd. I loved this video. Very helpful and Jason keeps it fun.
More Dodge!! Best one yet. You could do a spray on undercoating! Or a video on the interior stuff like bench seat ect
Great video. I am doing the same to my 85 D100. Question, do you have a parts list from MOOG? Also, how did you find all that for $450 ish? My moog order for the same stuff is $700+. Thanks!!!
Well, I enjoyed this video and the best part is the "dis" to twitter. yea baby. I have a 91 1st Gen. pre ECU (they were 91.5) diesel and I am getting ready to do this to my front end. all original parts. Should be a good experience. I have a shop across the street that I will have the bushings and ball joints removed and install the new ones on the control arms for about what the press would cost. Again thanks for the great video
Awesome! Yeah having a shop do the bushings and ball joints is a fine idea.
@@JasonExplainsThings I ended up going a different way. I went and purchased NEW old Stock complete Dodge Upper Control Arm with ball joints and bushings$269.00 for both, so after fighting the rebuild of arms, I actually bent one. so just look and you can find the NEW old stock, the company purchased all the control arms from Dodge. all new tie-rods etc. Fantastic riding now. Great video
Thanks for this video! I am replacing all this on my 84. Questions, the ears on the pass side brackets for the upper control arm where the bolts go through are broken off. Any idea if that makes any difference? The other side is there but they do not seem to hold anything in place.
Yup, very on point with what needs doing on my 84 Dodge D100. Gotta clean up the suspension and get it realigned. I won't be happy until everything is new or like new and painted. I will be buried in this truck one day so I want everything tip top.
Thanks for sharing your video. I bought a 82 d150. I'm trying to get it lifted. It's a struggle finding lift parts. Anyway love the video. Put up some more.
Mistakes are a learning opportunity.. no harm no foul
One more question…..did you jack the truck up to when it was just coming off the jackstands when you tightened the control arm bushings? Was about to tighten mine at that point but it seemed like the control arms should be a bit higher. I don’t know I may have to have some people sit in the cab on each side to delay the truck rising off the stands in order to get the control arms in a “ride height” condition.
Yeah man and you're doing it right if you're going to do something do it right the first time repainting all the old parts absolutely I usually put rust inhibitor under the paint it's called extend great product and you can paint over it it's sterilizes the rust I learned that from my many years of auto body work thank you very much I appreciate you God bless
Gracias Jason por la explicación ya reconozco la falla en la suspensión delantera de mi RAM CHSRGER gracias !!
Thank you for this. Just started working on my 87 dodge. (Also started working on cars and trucks in general) Its fun and this helped out a ton dude thanks 🤙
Edited now my comment makes more sense
You're very welcome Eric. These old trucks are awesome.
I'm looking for the link for the new front upper control arm. Thanks.
Video quality is epic 🤙🤙
Best quality video production iv seen in awhile ✊
Very much appreciated! I put a lot of time into each of these. 🤜🤛
@@JasonExplainsThings can definitely tell in the finished product. I’ll definitely be staying around for the future ✊
Question did you use factory upper bushings or the bushings that can be use for movement for alignment?
Awesome video! You should do a video on how to repair some electrical components because my ‘87 D100 just decided that it doesn’t want to receive a signal from the ignition cylinder to start.. somewhere between the ignition and the starter relay is not getting a signal
I’d love to find an old Dodge like that, I currently have a 94 F-150 which is a pretty good truck just over complicated to these old Dodges
Thanks for this, I’m doing everything you did in this video and more to my 83 d-150 this summer
When you wiped out the threads on the upper control arm where did you source new ones? WSD are the ones that I can find new ones at. I remembered that the upper one was threaded but even so the threads got damaged while unscrewing it. My truck is a 74 so I assume the upper ball joints have been in the A arm since new (48 years).
They were from a seller on eBay that I believe no longer exists.
just noticed your truck doesn't have a sway bar. I own a 82 D150 with a sway bar on it. Do you know what would be the difference ?
Hermosa ram muchísimas gracias 👍
Im having more trouble taking off the knuckle from the upper arm, are you sure you can just hit it off?
Use POR 15 on the large rusty pieces then paint. POR goes right over the rust. Lasts forever
pleasant to watch, very informative and entertaining👍
Very nice video, it is very very helpful to me.
I'm doing the same right now on my 92 D250 Cummins.
One question, do the upper control bushings have that sleeve on both bushings or just on 1 bushing?
After removing the bushings i've only found 1.
Nice informative channel, thank you.
Just one side if I remember correctly.
I have the same truck. Mine drives really loose. I really want to redo it so it's still soft and smooth but can handle the speed the cummins and down mountain travel can demand.
Your truck looks "leveled" after the front end work. I have a 1988 (5.2L (318)) and the front end is quite low with very little clearance between the tires and the fender. Was the Coil Spring Insulator MOOG K160037 an OEM install, or something you added? Did you notice the front end higher after installing the new springs?
Hmmm, interesting point. I didn’t notice much of a difference.
Awesome video bud helped out a lot
I’m working on a 84 and most is the same just mines a lot more rust lol
Where did you find the coil spring isolator rubber piece? I have looked everywhere for them. Im doing a frame off rebuild of an '86 D150 short bed lowered with a modern Gen 3 hemi. Thanks for the how to video.
There’s a link in the description. 👍
@@JasonExplainsThings thank you. It is strange because Moog does not show these as fitting earlier than '92 trucks. Im going to order them to see how well they fit the new springs.
My first vehicle was an 86 D100 custom. Now I have several W 150s
I noticed your coil spring part number was 7172 on the box of the video. But on the description is says 7170 which is up to 1989 Dodges Could you confirm on your amazon purchase if it was 7172 or 7170 ?
Look love the vedio very helpful I'm fixen to have to do the same really soon to my 1988 dodge. I have recently started restoring them and reselling them but have one question that's not yet made by your vedios covering the dodge is the fuel components once they break where do u find aftermarket or parts????? One of mine broke and u cant by the model?????
That's a tough one. LMC truck has some things.
Thank you for this video. I have a 1992 D350 with a Cummings diesel. It’s a 2 wheel drive,I know yours is a 1/2 ton & mine is a 1 ton but the front ends are the same. I sure mine is a bit heavier. I am having problems with my upper a arms,when I unthreaded the upper ball joint most of the threads came with it. I know you said you found some replacement ones that were not oem ones. They worked, but you said you were not real happy with them. Were you able too find some oem ones? If so where? Or maybe you have found a better way to fix them, would really appreciate any help you can give me on this.
I have a 1989 D150. What would be the best way to lower it without screwing with my alignment angles. Planning on lowering it 2 inches
I’ve seen special UCAs for lowering on eBay. But I don’t have any experience lowering a Dodge myself.
thank you for your time to do this video.... great video well explain ..
Very cool this video, it helped me a lot in the maintenance of my pickup. Can you tell me if the K7077 control arm bushing and the Moog 7170 springs are compatible for a 1983 D250 3/4t pickup?
Thanks Jason!
Love your videos!! Quick question on the Coil Springs. I see in the video you have the Moog 7172, but link the 7170s. The 7170s are readily available, but I am looking for the slightly taller 7172 springs. Any ideas? Thank you!
Sorry about that. You can check Rock Auto as well.
@JasonExplainsThings any vhance you could link your orange standing vice your using?
amzn.to/3KP7Kl9
8:30 pressing old bushings out
15:30 pressing new bushing in
Hey Jason i am currently redoing my front suspension on my 88 dodge d250 but i need new upper control arms i was just curious where you purchased yours as all the places I’ve looked say its discontinued
Yeah they are very hard to find. I found mine on eBay... the seller has since stopped selling them.
Great video brother, helped immensely!!!! Any thoughts on the moog strut rid bushing? My instructions said to have both retaining washers facing the same way, the washers even were engraved with directional guides. It makes the inner retainer cup back towards the control arm and just doesnt seem legit. Any suggestions?
If I'm understanding you correctly I had the same issue you did. I did it the way they were labeled first, but it didn't seem right so I reversed it as you see in the video. No issues 1.5 years later. :-)
Good Video, thanks for making.
that's a good looking truck
I know I'm a bit late to the party on this video, but I have an 87 D150 and let me share some wisdom with everyone. There are a couple major issues with the way you showed this job that could seriously impair someone's rebuild, like it almost did for mine.
First off: You don't need to add weight to the coil spring to remove the knuckle, in fact I'd really recommend not doing that. You're actually more likely to hurt yourself; instead, place a block under the unloaded suspension with about a half inch gap between it and the lower arm. Next, in order to pop the ball joints free, loosen both upper and lower nuts to about a 1/4 inch gap, and strike the knuckle, not the ball joint stud. This will shock them loose way faster without hurting the joint or threads. You can then loosen the joints until all the tension is gone.
Now, about the upper arm bushings: CUT THOSE INNER SLEEVES OFF. That pressed on sleeve can become so rusted it almost cold welds to the bushing ends, and you'll deform the chamfered upper arm area pressing it out no matter what. Cut a diagonal groove all the way through the inner sleeves to loosen the tension, you don't have to cut the whole sleeve in half just most of the way, and DONT CUT THE ARM in the process, it's already a thin area. I find a small diameter cutting wheel works best. Those sleeves do not provide any support if you look at them, It was an idea Mopar had but since it's not welded to the upper arm it just kinda floats there. Many cars only had one sleeve per arm, not two. Does it add a bit of rigidity to the bushing? Sure, but bending the arm trying to save it costs a lot of money and time. My truck has run perfectly for 9 years without them.
And finally, advice for pressing out/in ball joints or bushings: put tension on the press tool and then whack the arm area around the joint/bushing with a brass hammer or drift punch. This both shocks the joint and settles it, AND keeps it straight as it presses out/in. ALWAYS do this as your new joint/bushing may appear seated but will loosen as you drive, either affecting your alignment or worse, snapping a ball joint if you hit a pothole and it settles it too forcefully.
Thanks for giving your thoughts. Dodge drives awesome 3.5 years later. :-)
@@JasonExplainsThings Ol' truck always drove awesome, you just made it even more awesome :) Thanks for a good, clear video.
Hey Jason,
First of all, I love the video. You did an excellent job of going into great detail of everything you did on your truck. However, I do have one particular question for you though.
I understand you stripped the threads in the upper control arm while pressing out the existing ball joint on the driver’s side. I was just wandering whether or not you repaired or replaced the existing control arm? If you repaired it, how exactly did you go about doing that? If you replaced the entire control arm, where were you able to find a new one?
Right now, I am currently doing a front end rebuild on my 2WD 91 Dodge D-350 and ended up stripping the threads on the upper control arm as well. I looked on a lot of websites where I get parts for my truck and couldn’t find any new control arms. What would you recommend?
Thanks,
-Preston
Hey Preston, yes the UCA wasn’t repairable so I bought a new set on eBay. Sadly the seller has since gone out of business.
Ok. Sounds good. Thank you for the information!
Hey Jason; had another question for you.
I was installing the new center link on my 91 Dodge D-350, and noticed the holes of the cotter pins would not line up when the castle nuts were torqued. I then remembered there was a rubber spacer that came off of each side of the existing center link. Upon discovering this, I realized the new center link didn’t come with that spacer. I tried calling Carquest to see if they’d be able to get me that part, but were unable to.
Did you happen to run into this issue as well? If so, how did you resolve it?
another great video from Jason!!
Personally i would have greased the mating surfaces of all the press in stuff, makes assembly and future disassembly easier. And i would not have used locktite on the balljoint tapers. It doesnt need it with the tapered mating surfaces and the castle nuts, theres no way theyre going to loosen. And it will make future disassembly significantly harder even with just blue locktite
Jason, where did you find the upper control arms? I made the same mistake pressing ball joints out and ruined the threads. Thanks
Bummer! They’re from a seller on eBay. Unfortunately they are not a great aftermarket part… I’m actually looking for an OEM set to replace them down the road.