Sno Seal as cheap DIY Oilskin / Tin Cloth ? Let's WAX this Cotton !
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ค. 2018
- I experiment with Sno-Seal as an off the shelf substitute for making cheap, DIY waterproofing for cotton garments. The results are in ...
- แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
According to the description on their website:
“Sno-Seal is also great for waxed cotton and tent seams.”
Sno seal also makes good tinder, roll around a cotton ball in it and it burns for about ten minutes. Also good lube for firearms in the field but not in dry sandy conditions. Great for muzzleloading in winter. Also used it on zippers to stop jams. 1000 uses
Sno Seal has been known to work on canvas for many years here in the northeast, it even says so on their website. I usually buy it by the 1 quart paint can and melt it in a double burner setup, I seal all my boots with a paint brush. There’s more waist using this method but I found the results are worth it.
It's a great, easy to use product. Thanks for stopping by.
If you noticed the smell at first dissipates quickly, and what is left after curing is the beeswax. I have been using Sno Seal for years on canvas, Cotton, and leather. While using on my Leather straps on a Vintage Bergan Knapsack. I got in on the canvas, noticed it darkened the canvas but also made it as waterproof and durable as the leather. From a mistake came a cost saving and IMHO practical and easy project for all Outdoors-men and Bush Crafters.
I'm an old fart, and I did this decades ago. Works well enough, but better if you spread it on the fabric while the material is hot out of the dryer. Use a 2" wide plastic putty knife to mover it around fast while the canvas is hot. Extra on all seams. Keep the material hot by putting it on a foil covered oven rack on low heat setting and keep going. DO NOT put it back in the dryer or you'll ruin the machine drum finish. It will stink up the house a bit. The key is saturation, not just getting the on the surface.
The downside is that it gets expensive to do a whole coverall compared to cooking up a batch of other recipes. Also, in cold weather, the beeswax gets stiff and separates from the oil emulsifier, creating cracks and sometimes flaking. But, for the short haul, it does a fie job.
Cheaper and not difficult is this:
2 parts toilet ring "wax" (preferably new), 1 part turpentine, 1 part boiled linseed oil.
Two rings is about 16 ounces of liquid when melted, add 8oz each of the turp and BLO. You'll end up with about a quart. Let it cool to a paste similar to axle grease. Spread it on the warm garment as described above. It will smell like the dickens for a couple weeks, and slightly less for a couple more, but it works. I have items that are several years old now and have not leaked. Getting ready to re-treat a couple others.
Don't smoke while cooking and mixing.
Thanks for the info!
@@RandyRodCo No problem. I'm getting ready to re-treat a possibles bag I made about 4 to 5 years a go. It's finally beginning to let in some water after almost daily use walking the dog (lotsa rain here) and constant use when I canoe camp.
I have used this on canvas type material for years, its kinda cool to see my method being verified via video!!
Right on man !!
Outstanding! I live in Maine and treat all my leather in snow seal. It is a great product, easy to use and works exceptionally well. I will not hesitate to use it on other applications as well. Thank you very much.
Hey Steven! Thanks for watchin' ! I agree, it;s a fantastic, old-school product.
Great idea, I will be doing the same to a pair of pants, Thanks!!
Awesome! i just bought some of this stuff today for my boots!! thanks for the video :)
You bet Shawna! This stuff is awesome. Cheers!
Was 48 degrees here two mornings ago, can't wait best time of year coming up!!
You know it Brother !! Northern For Life
I would always use a hairdryer to heat up my boots when I did it back in the 60's. It also helps to evaporate the 'spirits'.
Interesting. Did it seem to change the outcome at all?
Good job my man, very informative! As a soldier, we live by this stuff. The smell triggers memories lol
Thanks buddy! And may the smell of Sno Seal be of great comfort! Haha 👍👍
On other sites I see that it’s also good for canvas tents, bags, wax jackets etc.. and the formula is very similar to other brands that are made specifically for max cotton… They might have one or two more ingredients but it’s essentially the same stuff.
I use that stuff on my hiking boots. Now I realize I could be using it on pants as well. Thanks for the tip!
For sure man!
Great Video, I really like the Tunes at the beginning.
From your Canadian friend,
Liam
Awsome job
Very cool bro, I've often wondered if it would work.
Yeah man! Worked great too. Sheds water like Mallard , haha!
Hey randy.
Thanks from UK.for the information..
You bet! Thanks for watchin"
I was a mason tender for 15 years and early on I realized I needed a solution to gloves, going through a pair every 2 weeks what with handling thousands of concrete block or brick each day.
I found split grain leather palm gloves with rubber lined cuff for $36/doz at Home Depot that worked great once I treated them with Sno Seal.
I had no standard for application, sometimes I'd warm the Sno Seal in the jar in my work bench microwave or with a blow dryer into the top of the can
Then while wearing the gloves I'd pour it in the palms and rub it in like soaping my hands.
I also kept a jar on my truck and would throw my gloves on the dash run the windshield defrost and when hot enough to put them on then reach in the jar with my fingers like pomade rub it in deep.
It extended the life of the gloves by at least a week esp keeping them dry when dipping in the water bucket to temper the mortar a couple of dozen times a day.
And new boots always 2 coats on fresh leather, Timberland 6" Boss, a new pair every 7 months, then the odd coat in between especially during rainy/mud season.
On fresh leather I'd stand tape around at the stitching to create a little form then heat the boot and melt the wax, pouring it on to ensure it ran down into the welt.
But topsides were most important rubning in 2 additional coats.
The boot at the ankle would break down as well as the soles wearing out before the leather upper wouls give out.
Even the gloves when they were finally done I toss in the back - they would work in a pinch or when one of my buddies were desperate for gloves... lol I had a bucket full of gloves worn with holes I just couldn't throw out.
Good call on the Sno Seal and thanx for the vid. That's how we learn... through knowledge passed on from others which is exactly how I learned every thing I learned, from the older guys on every jobsite just as they learned when they were young going back to the builders of the Pyramids
Really appreciate the comment. Lot of experience there and it's much appreciated! Take care man - RRC
Gonna try this with my Orvis canvas backpack
I'd be curious how it goes.
I seen one video on The Lone Woodsman where he used tung oil, tung oil finish which has drying agents in it, mineral spirits, and crystalized wax. Have to keep it stirred and just hot enough to melt the wax. No open flame.
Microcrystasane ya mean? That's the sane recipe I use.
I was thinking of using this on L.L. Bean pack boots with the canvas uppers. I would think it should help keep them waterproof for a season of use. I think putting the boots and the Sno Seal in the sun on a hot day, apply it, then hit the boots with a blow dryer to melt it in would work.
Works great! Put my gloves over wood-stove and heat them up and work in 3 or 4 times. Keeps them water proof all winter .
Very cool !!
Sno-Seal and most homeowner grade lawn mowers are the best things to come out of Orangeburg, SC. Sno-Seal is fantastic stuff for outdoorsmen
Great job, it works
Sure does
I know i done this to a pair of carhartt canvas duck pants, best thing i ever done to my work clothes.
Well I know what I'm doing to my carhartt jacket
I have a wool cap that's all sno-sealed for fun and it works fantastically well.
That's pretty interesting!
@@RandyRodCo it was already warm, but now it's practically wind proof, which is handy in Chicago.
This is off their site:
"Sno-Seal is also great for waxed cotton and tent seams. The beeswax formula dries to a solid wax that "stays put" in the surface of the leather so it lasts longer."
Thanks 3 years later. Going to use this on a old faded hat of mine.
Nice dude! Works pretty slick.
Can you add a follow up video and is there any smell to it?
Awesome test, i have some gloves and shoes i need to do. I ride my bike to work. This would improve things alot. Thankyou God bless
Thanks Brent! Hope it works out for ya.
I believe the solvent is naptha. Slower evaporation rate keeps the wax from drying out. That's what it smells like. Hard to get it all out.. It sure works though.
Whatever it is, it’s strong when applied, but tapers off a bit as time goes by
How did it work out? I’m thinking of doing a pair of Duluth coveralls, for the same reason. How long did it last
Ah the classic molsen ice meathod, tried and true brother!
Haha! It never fails bud !!
I applied it on a cotton and polyester jacket. He didn't adhere well. It is good in fabrics with over 80% natural fiber.
Thanks for the vid. A second application may seal in any gaps between fibers. I'm trying this out with a canvas tarp.
Awesome man! Let me know how it goes. I'd be curious to know how it does against full-on rain. Cheers
@@RandyRodCo I'm in Fl so we def have many opportunities for full on rain. I have two cheap canvas tarps from Home Depot, small and medium. Plan is to treat both sides and hopefully get good penetration/saturation. I'll reach back out when the small one is done and I've done some testing.
It'd be great to be able to use them as ground cover for tents and possibly as a rain fly for tents/hammocks. There's something about waxed canvas that is great, but they tend to be pricey.
@@engelwyre Curious how the canvas tarps turned out? Did the rain penetrate? Thanks.
@@treasuringpricelesstime5962 Hi! Well, I had started making my own canvas bags for camping, hiking, car EDC, etc. and have treated a number of them with a mix of beeswax, paraffin (or sometimes a soy wax) mixed with coconut oil. (The smell of turpentine makes me nauseous, coconut oil is a nice alternative). Lanolin is useful if you need to keep something pliable or if leather is involved.
So far, no proper rain tests but water has been present a number of times and there has been no penetration.
Sno seal
The best waterproofing ever
Been using it for over 25 years on everything you wanna keep dry
If your really poor, a blacktop road gets very hot in the summer months. Just sweep the area where you are going to put the cloth down, a old brush works well to move the wax around. Thanks for the tip on the snow seal.
Thanks!
Wow, your video is quit interesting. On a bag I have I will give Sno-Seal a go, have some from years ago. Much appreciate you creating this video.
Suggestion, mount the camera. Camera tripods are less than $20.
Haha! YES...i do need a little help from a tripod. Thanks for watching Ric.
Ah, the better side of TH-cam
Did a pair of carrheartts last year works very good w touch up ever couple months. I found it works better if you don’t heat it and leave it on the surface and let it cure
Very interesting! Sorta like a dry-cured deal. Thanks for the info
I found it is better to heat the first coat to soak into the fibers, then add a second coat and leave to cure for longer lasting and more durability.
That makes a lot of sense! thanks for sharing @@Mantreaus
@@Mantreaus I do same for gloves. First treatment gets heat and the rest just rub in. It does add a bit of weight and can get a bit stiff when cold but way better than wet leather mits.
SNO SEAL is pretty good stuff
This is EXACTLY what I've been looking for! I've got some cotton pea coats that I've been wanting to waterproof and was debating Barbour and Otter Wax, but gyaaah, what a pain in the backside that seems to be.
The SnoSeal looks like just the thing, and it's able to be applied straight from the jar without melting or excess heating!
How're your overalls holding up by the way?
Right on! The overalls are great. Just re-apply when i need to and they keep tickin' ...
im not sure , but i think if you melted the snow seal and added some wax that would be exactly what tin pants would use . just sayin . good job at finding that snow seal freakin brilliant .
Thanks dude!
Was any curious "smell" left behind after curing? Thx for posting. New idea for me.
It did have an odor for a while after it cured.
@@RandyRodCo Ty. jwc
Awesome. Great idea. I was just groaning at buying beeswax and and oil and and mineral spirits to make my own. How did it hold up so far?
It's held up great man. It's not completely "waterproof" as they say, but it does the job really good. It sheds water...and basically that's what i needed it to do. My opinion is that you can't beat the cost of it. I still have half a jar left (after doing a bunch of boots) and didn't need to mix any bulk products. Thanks for watching bud.
@@RandyRodCo You bet ... super helpful video and great idea. I just bought a jar and am going to try it on a ball cap first, then move on to an older but much loved Carhartt jacket. I was also interested in trying same with some Huberd's shoe grease, which I love for my Danner boots. But I think that might have more of a conditioner effect and keep things too soft and un-set /un-cured feeling. Plus, that product has pine tar, which is good, but maybe not optimal for pants going against skin. I'm anticipating moving on to some treated field pants similar to yours for late season big game hunting here in western MT. In any case - thanks for posting the vid and sharing the idea.
@@brendan8363 No problem man. Let me know how the ballcap goes. I think you'll like the results. Take care
I think the difference is the durability.
What are they like now?
Maybe. These old, USA made overalls are pretty rugged. They're still goin' strong. Only need to re-apply when needed.
Ima do this to a canvas surplus bag. Does it feel sticky?
No. Not sticky at all actually. Maybe a little greasy perhaps. But didn’t stay that way too long.
Update video? Probably be good to do the very bottom 6" to keep wet from wicking up.
I wear tall boots and usually tuck that portion into em. But, YES, otherwise i would. I might get around to doing a follow up vid this summer. We'll see...
Great job,quick question,can you wash the pants after this?
You can't (or shouldn't) wash them in a machine because of the wax, so if you needed to wash them my suggestion would be to do it in a 5 gal. bucket. Then re-apply when done. Just my opinion.
How long did it end up lasting in the field?
It shed water quite nicely throughout our hunting season (3 months) without needing another application. For me, the cost was worth it. There are (i'm sure) better/more effective ways to do this, however the ease & low cost of this trial run was worth every penny! Thanks for watching sir
Nice. I use Snow Seal on gloves and boots and stuff.@@RandyRodCo
Yup! I took an old pair of tall boy LL Bean boots and made em' good as new with 2 coats of this stuff! Fantastic product for cheap money! @@senorquill
The boot shop gave me a jar with my Sorels.
What happens after you launder the pants? Do you have to reapply the Sno-seal after every washing?
Hand wash is recommended. Yes, another application after washing is the way I treat mine.
@@RandyRodCo Thanks for the reply. I tried Sno-seal on a cloth rucksack, which I haven't laundered. I wanted to be able to set it down in damp grass and not have it absorb a lot of moisture.
How did this end up working for you I was gonna buy a pair of tin pants from filson but there to damn expensive!!
My honest opinion is that they are an excellent substitute. I've never owned any expensive Tin Cloth garments. These have worked out real good for me! Thanks for stoppin' by.
How are they after washing them
I haven’t washed them. Probably won’t for some time. Definitely wouldn’t wash in a machine OR with anything else just to be safe. IMO
You sold me...it's going on my oil cloth duster. Why pay for the expensive stuff..and it sounds like it may have the same stuff as those making the waterproofing (without dealing with the mixing outside, etc,,)
Yeah, for me, it's SO worth not having to mix my own batches. I'm still on the first tub of this stuff.
Would it be better to throw the canvas in the dryer and get it nice and hot before the cure?
I'm only guessing, but I think the clothing would cool down too quick. I'll try applying it then blowing it with a hair dryer.
Good question! In theory, that might help draw the wax in. But honestly, the garment would be cooled off far before you could get the whole thing coated. That’s my best guess. Thanks for the great question!
I tried it, garment cooled off. But I went ahead. I let the wax melt in a water bath. Applied with a sponge. Looks good.
@@buildingwithtrees2258 Very nice! It's a great, cheap and easy use product!
is it possible to use an iron as a substitute for a hair dryer, just put a tin foil on top of the fabric or is that a bad idea?
That's a good question. To be completely honest, i don't know the answer. Maybe it's something i will try in the future. Thanks for the question!
Test a bit on the inside of your forearm to check for allergic reaction . Then go all out on the rest of it .
Good point!
Cover the rest of my arm?
Does it work for canvas?
I haven't tested it on canvas, so i can't say for sure.
I’m pretty sure it’s paraffin… I actually just waxed my cotton camo jacket, made by O’Neill this evening… I’ve got it for 15 bucks on eBay, it was faded but still really cool, it fit more like a shirt /jacket , a typical tailored fit like my Barbour international motorcycle jacket.. it’s old but it’s some thing that O’Neill should continue making because it’s such a great looking jacket… The only problem is that it isn’t weatherproof... it’s fucking awesome and such a bargain for this project..I bought some sno-seal and melted it in an aluminum cup in some boiling water and brushed it on.. Meda sick and even Cohen so I didn’t have to go for a second round… I prefer melting the product instead of warming up the jacket so that it absorbs into the cotton a lot better.. let it dry off a little bit and then used a hairdryer to fix it in, let it cool down and in the morning do it again… Everything worked ok on my wool baseball Cap… And I think it looks great so far… I’ll try to post pictures if possible... I think the product is very similar to more expensive brands I didn’t feel like it was necessary to spend 20 or $30… It works great on my leather boots as well… There’s a reason why it’s been around for such a long time…it fucking Works… And you don’t have to spend so much money to make your gear weatherproof and sharp..Nice video..keep it up..👍🏼
Okay, I am two years late to this post. Your use of profanity is very sad. There are underage children reading these posts. They do not need being subjected to your mindless irresponsible, profanity, writings. Have more respect for yourself and other viewers as well.
Bees wax, linseed oil and mineral spirits
How did these hold up?
Still use em'. Just re-apply once or twice a season.
Thanks! I’m going to give it a try, way easier than melting beeswax with linseed oil.
I find a bud lite method is more desireable. DILLY DILLY!!
HA! Cheaper for sure!
#210 sub.......
Niiiiice!! Thanks Johnny - Much appreciated
Squirrel hunting!!!!
Less than 2 months away !! Can't wait for some cool weather dude
Randy Rod Co you and me both man! Fry them up with some oyster mushrooms, can't beat it.
"tips for the practical outdoorsman"
Late to the party here, but I'll give you my 2 cents on snoseal.
This stuff is great. I've never used it on cloth but on all leather items. What I do for gloves is heat up an oven snow seal them and put them into the oven to bake it in then when the leather is still warm keep rubbing the snow seal in and be super generous with with application. Put the item back in the oven and melt that in and keep doing this three or four times until its fully saturated. Let the item cool and then apply another coat to the cooled item. If you don't want the tackyness you need to bake them more. If you don't mind the tackyness the snoseal will last longer in between applications. It's great for leather work gloves and boots just use more than you think and really, really rub it in and heat up whatever your applying it to to melt in on.
I think its mink oil
It's possible. Whatever the "other" ingredient is...it works great!
Slim Stickly: Don't think it's Mink Oil. Snow Seal claims there product contains no animal products.
Ya I won't buy a 300 dollar name and I could afford them it's just a waste of money
Yep. People just don't care about doing things for themselves nowadays. They'd rather buy buy buy. Thanks for stoppin' by!