I just found out about this as I am troubleshooting why my high speed fan is coming on after parking my 05 Cooper S. Thank you for this straightforward vid and as much work as they are I love me some R53!
"Sometimes" when the low speed fan is not working, the High Speed fan will run for a while-after the car is turned off, keys in hand. If the Low speed fan keeps the temps down, it is less likely to happen. Good luck getting it straight.
Yes they can be a handful to work on, but I love them too. Another friend added a small fan to the front of his condenser and controls it with a switch. He is in Los Angeles and deals with a lot of stop & go traffic. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the idea! Here is maybe a safer and simpler idea to test the same concept you had. In the fuse box, there are two relays for the Fan State 1 and Fan State 2. By removing the relay and using the empty relay socket itself to turn on the fan with thick enough wire / piece of metal. This would be much less hasle and safer as you still keep the 50A fuse in line. Also if you have some cable tools available, one can create a cable with same clip size as the replay and simply slot a cable in place of the relay. And there is a safety, that you have to turn your one click to make the fan go (bypassing the main relay), so there is less risk of shorting while moving the live wires. By your method, there is no fuse and when accidentally shorting the battery, there is potential for 250~350A, basically creating a welding machine and the battery will heat up very fast, creating the next risk for fire. So be careful!
I get that and thanks for the information. With my method, you can also test an assembly out of the car, as in a salvage yard. There are risks involved, so test at your own risk. For the low speed, you can also turn on the A/C and that supposed to start the low speed fan as well. Thanks for watching.
You are welcome. It is a common failure at the age of these cars. Not too difficult to fix and there are a few different ways people do the repair. Good luck and thanks for watching.
A lot of these 1st Gen's have this resistor issue. Some people mount an external resistor and bypass the OE location. This makes replacing it easier. Thanks for watching and hope you get yours fixed.
28 years ago he served in the army as a radio operator, and if he saw how one of my soldiers connects to a contact with a connector in this way ... Which consumes a fairly large amount of amperes, then he would immediately "punch him in the neck." Especially considering that the car's battery was not disconnected. You are a very risky guy ))))
Thanks for watching and the comment. Yes, sometimes I do things a bit sketchy, so I advise you to only do what YOU are comfortable doing. I show them because we all do things like that, but some just don't show it. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Thank you, I hope it helps people with these cars because this is a common problem. The dealer will just replace the entire radiator support for around $400+. There is another repair that others have done and I may explain that one later, when I fix one of the other cars.
high speed kicks on at 110 celcius, had mine leak coolant and spin the high speed up in a parking garage and rushed to get through the dash test menu to get an actual temp reading
I wish these cars came with a real temp gauge. A lot of these cars have the low speed resistor problem. I replace them every few years, whenever I put the car in front end mode. Thanks for watching & stay tuned.
With the A/c, the high speed fan is usually on. The low speed should come on at a lower temperature than 200°F. It may be a temp switch or something with the thermostat, hard to say without more info. Thanks for watching.
Hey Jimmy, I have the (true) 1st Gen. MCS which has a secondary two-pin connection as part of the circuit where the plug pulls apart. Do you know the equivalent test for these earlier models, please? I'm getting nothing when powering either leg on the same plug as shown for both of your cars, powering the two-pin smaller plug (same connection as for PS cooling fan) gives high-speed fan operation. Can't find a schematic for it anywhere!? Many thanks; keep up the entertaining information sir!
Wow, out of the 5 cars we've had, (4 plus the parts car) I've had the same plug i've shown. I haven't seen any other kind. The only thing I can think of in your case is to go directly to the fan, which means removing the radiator. I would also have a resistor ready/on-hand if I were going that far. Hope this helps but please reach out if need more info.
@@Mini-Driver Thanks for getting back to me, I've since learned (by removing the front of the car, of course!) that the earlier two-pin extra plug runs fan high when power applied, and that the relay for switching speed (via the resistor) is mounted on the fan itself, behind the radiator. Ran out of daylight today but pretty sure baked resistor will be the culprit once I've separated the top hose enough to get to remove the fan. Thanks again!
@@PaulRichardson-m2e Okay, that's what I do when I remove the radiator. I have been replacing the resistors. I got resistors from Amazon for about 15 each. Good luck getting it done.
The High speed will run a while to bring the temp down even after you shut the car off. That sometimes indicates the low speed not working. I would perform the test, then change it if needed. Thanks for watching, hope it helps.
I work on ours. We have 4, 1st Generation Cooper S models. I try to do everything myself, except specialty things like alignments, A/C work. Thanks for checking out the videos.
I am a little uncomfortable connecting to the car battery. Would I be able to connect it to an external 12 V battery (positive and negative leads) instead?
My fan stops working in low and high speeds, i thought that could be some relay but i plugged a new cooling fan (out of the car) and work in both speedsm this meas 100% that the actual cooling fan is broken?
@@diegougarte I would just make sure it is not seized up, and it comes on when it should. Maybe it can be unplugged and have power put to it to ensure it turns.
Don't feel bad, my low speed fan has not been working for years on our original grey Mini. It still isn't working, but I have resistors on hand, ready to be installed. When I have other work to din that area, I will change them out. Just try to avoid long periods of stopped traffic in warmer weather. Thanks for checking out that video.
@@Mini-Driver I mostly drive to work in not alot of traffic in Atlanta. I have never had an overheating issue on the gauge. I am gonna sell the r52 in years. I have taken it to track like this. Should I be worried?
@@andersanden3221 I would say not, but I don't know your cars history. Just be very vigilant about your temps & coolant levels. Ensure your high speed fan comes on at least.
Tried your method and for a quick second the low speed worked, tried the high speed and nothing. went back to low speed and now it won’t kick on- think my fan is shot.
Check your fuses also. If your high & low speed isn't working, it just might be your fan. If you take it out, I would test it a few times out of the car just to be sure. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the reply, shouldn’t my high speed fan work by giving it direct 12v from the battery?- now i know by watching your video that the resistor is definitely shot for the low speed.
Yes, the high should work. If you can find a fan only instead of replacing the whole unit, it would be less expensive. A salvage yard might be your best friend.
That may mean your fan is burnt and not working at all. For me, I would remove the fan and bench test the motor. If you have access to a salvage yard, try to test one there (use a jump box) to compare. Thanks for watching and hope it helps.
Buenas tardes espero este muy bien, te escribo de Monterrey,Mexico, edpero me puedas ayudar y traducir este mensaje, tengo un mini s 2008, ymi carro tiene una faya que no le han podido detectar, al rececorrer unos 10 km ,empieza a enceder el testigo del aceite , ya fambie bomba de aceite, bulbo de aceite ,metales , cadena del tiempo,bomda de agua las 2 junto con la auxiliar, enfriador de aceite, empaques de porta filtro de aceite y la falla sigue, siento que el carro se calienta , si me puedes ayudar muy agradecido, saludos 👍
Inside the oil cooler there is a switch; under the filter. That may be your issue, as they are prone to break. Also if your filter is not inserted completely. Other than that, it would be hard to determine without more information or being there. Hope that helps.
I just found out about this as I am troubleshooting why my high speed fan is coming on after parking my 05 Cooper S. Thank you for this straightforward vid and as much work as they are I love me some R53!
"Sometimes" when the low speed fan is not working, the High Speed fan will run for a while-after the car is turned off, keys in hand. If the Low speed fan keeps the temps down, it is less likely to happen. Good luck getting it straight.
Yes they can be a handful to work on, but I love them too. Another friend added a small fan to the front of his condenser and controls it with a switch. He is in Los Angeles and deals with a lot of stop & go traffic. Thanks for watching.
Thank you! Was able to diagnose that my low speed is not working and very happy that this is likely my overheating issue.
Glad it helped with your diagnosis. There are a number of fixes for this problem, just do what works for you. Thank you for watching.
I enjoyed watching you. I'll watch the rest of your videos now.
Wow, Thank you & welcome. I hope you get good information from them.
Having the same issue. Thanks for your video, it was BIG help!
I think most of the 1st Gen cars have this issue at one time or another. Hope it helped. Thanks for watching.
Well sir i was able to test my mini cooper fans i did just as you showed and they both work i wasn't sure they would i'm glad they do thanks again
That's good news, glad I could help. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the idea! Here is maybe a safer and simpler idea to test the same concept you had. In the fuse box, there are two relays for the Fan State 1 and Fan State 2. By removing the relay and using the empty relay socket itself to turn on the fan with thick enough wire / piece of metal. This would be much less hasle and safer as you still keep the 50A fuse in line. Also if you have some cable tools available, one can create a cable with same clip size as the replay and simply slot a cable in place of the relay. And there is a safety, that you have to turn your one click to make the fan go (bypassing the main relay), so there is less risk of shorting while moving the live wires. By your method, there is no fuse and when accidentally shorting the battery, there is potential for 250~350A, basically creating a welding machine and the battery will heat up very fast, creating the next risk for fire. So be careful!
I get that and thanks for the information. With my method, you can also test an assembly out of the car, as in a salvage yard. There are risks involved, so test at your own risk. For the low speed, you can also turn on the A/C and that supposed to start the low speed fan as well. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
You are welcome. I hope it helps you. I still have two more resistors to change out myself. Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much i have been wanting to check my fans i'm not sure they work. Now i know how to check i'm going to see tomorrow.
You are welcome. It is a common failure at the age of these cars. Not too difficult to fix and there are a few different ways people do the repair. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Love the music at the end bro!
I put that like they do at the awards shows when the speeches get too long. The music means it's time for me to "wrap it up" lol. Thanks for watching.
Exactly my issue. Thank you!
A lot of these 1st Gen's have this resistor issue. Some people mount an external resistor and bypass the OE location. This makes replacing it easier. Thanks for watching and hope you get yours fixed.
really clear - and concise - old git, UK
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
Very informative! Thank you very much!
Also if you start the car with the A/C on, the high speed should kick in very quickly. Thanks for watching.
28 years ago he served in the army as a radio operator, and if he saw how one of my soldiers connects to a contact with a connector in this way ... Which consumes a fairly large amount of amperes, then he would immediately "punch him in the neck." Especially considering that the car's battery was not disconnected. You are a very risky guy ))))
Thanks for watching and the comment. Yes, sometimes I do things a bit sketchy, so I advise you to only do what YOU are comfortable doing. I show them because we all do things like that, but some just don't show it. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Thanks for sharing this 😁
You are welcome, hope it helped you. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Great job with the video!
Thank you, I hope it helps people with these cars because this is a common problem. The dealer will just replace the entire radiator support for around $400+. There is another repair that others have done and I may explain that one later, when I fix one of the other cars.
high speed kicks on at 110 celcius, had mine leak coolant and spin the high speed up in a parking garage and rushed to get through the dash test menu to get an actual temp reading
I wish these cars came with a real temp gauge. A lot of these cars have the low speed resistor problem. I replace them every few years, whenever I put the car in front end mode. Thanks for watching & stay tuned.
Thanks for the video my fan only works with the ac on it doesn't auto come on at two hundred degrees.
With the A/c, the high speed fan is usually on. The low speed should come on at a lower temperature than 200°F. It may be a temp switch or something with the thermostat, hard to say without more info. Thanks for watching.
Hey Jimmy, I have the (true) 1st Gen. MCS which has a secondary two-pin connection as part of the circuit where the plug pulls apart. Do you know the equivalent test for these earlier models, please? I'm getting nothing when powering either leg on the same plug as shown for both of your cars, powering the two-pin smaller plug (same connection as for PS cooling fan) gives high-speed fan operation. Can't find a schematic for it anywhere!? Many thanks; keep up the entertaining information sir!
Wow, out of the 5 cars we've had, (4 plus the parts car) I've had the same plug i've shown. I haven't seen any other kind. The only thing I can think of in your case is to go directly to the fan, which means removing the radiator. I would also have a resistor ready/on-hand if I were going that far. Hope this helps but please reach out if need more info.
@@Mini-Driver Thanks for getting back to me, I've since learned (by removing the front of the car, of course!) that the earlier two-pin extra plug runs fan high when power applied, and that the relay for switching speed (via the resistor) is mounted on the fan itself, behind the radiator. Ran out of daylight today but pretty sure baked resistor will be the culprit once I've separated the top hose enough to get to remove the fan. Thanks again!
@@PaulRichardson-m2e Okay, that's what I do when I remove the radiator. I have been replacing the resistors. I got resistors from Amazon for about 15 each. Good luck getting it done.
You can also just turn your A/C on. In the MINI, that turns your low speed fan on.
I have to try that way too. That may also save someone some time diagnosing their issue. Thanks for sharing that and watching.
thank you for show how test my mini stay hi speed after engine start i think is the resistor what you think?
The High speed will run a while to bring the temp down even after you shut the car off. That sometimes indicates the low speed not working. I would perform the test, then change it if needed. Thanks for watching, hope it helps.
Great thanks for your help. Do you work with them ?
I work on ours. We have 4, 1st Generation Cooper S models. I try to do everything myself, except specialty things like alignments, A/C work. Thanks for checking out the videos.
I am a little uncomfortable connecting to the car battery. Would I be able to connect it to an external 12 V battery (positive and negative leads) instead?
Yes, most definitely. I have done that when the car I was testing had no battery. Even a small lawn mower battery will work. Thanks for watching.
The battery is in the back of the car. No need to fear connecting to a positive terminal in the engine bay.
My fan stops working in low and high speeds, i thought that could be some relay but i plugged a new cooling fan (out of the car) and work in both speedsm this meas 100% that the actual cooling fan is broken?
I would say so, if the new one works out of the car. I would also check the fan for the power steering unit too. Thanks for checking out my videos.
@@Mini-Driver What do i hace to check with that fan?
@@diegougarte I would just make sure it is not seized up, and it comes on when it should. Maybe it can be unplugged and have power put to it to ensure it turns.
2004 mini cooper s porque no tiene aire caliente?
My car didn't overheat, the low speed fan didn't work. The problem is the resistor. I replaced it and everything works perfectly. Gracias.
I think i have been drivong with the low speed fan always broken for 30k miles. Car has mever overheated
Don't feel bad, my low speed fan has not been working for years on our original grey Mini. It still isn't working, but I have resistors on hand, ready to be installed. When I have other work to din that area, I will change them out. Just try to avoid long periods of stopped traffic in warmer weather. Thanks for checking out that video.
@@Mini-Driver I mostly drive to work in not alot of traffic in Atlanta. I have never had an overheating issue on the gauge. I am gonna sell the r52 in years. I have taken it to track like this. Should I be worried?
@@andersanden3221 I would say not, but I don't know your cars history. Just be very vigilant about your temps & coolant levels. Ensure your high speed fan comes on at least.
Tried your method and for a quick second the low speed worked, tried the high speed and nothing. went back to low speed and now it won’t kick on- think my fan is shot.
Check your fuses also. If your high & low speed isn't working, it just might be your fan. If you take it out, I would test it a few times out of the car just to be sure. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the reply, shouldn’t my high speed fan work by giving it direct 12v from the battery?- now i know by watching your video that the resistor is definitely shot for the low speed.
Yes, the high should work. If you can find a fan only instead of replacing the whole unit, it would be less expensive. A salvage yard might be your best friend.
If both wire low speed n hi speed still not worked..so how..
That may mean your fan is burnt and not working at all. For me, I would remove the fan and bench test the motor. If you have access to a salvage yard, try to test one there (use a jump box) to compare. Thanks for watching and hope it helps.
@@Mini-Driver that's right sir.. my fan is burnt. thanks for your advice. I'm truly appreciate.
Buenas tardes espero este muy bien, te escribo de Monterrey,Mexico, edpero me puedas ayudar y traducir este mensaje, tengo un mini s 2008, ymi carro tiene una faya que no le han podido detectar, al rececorrer unos 10 km ,empieza a enceder el testigo del aceite , ya fambie bomba de aceite, bulbo de aceite ,metales , cadena del tiempo,bomda de agua las 2 junto con la auxiliar, enfriador de aceite, empaques de porta filtro de aceite y la falla sigue, siento que el carro se calienta , si me puedes ayudar muy agradecido, saludos 👍
Inside the oil cooler there is a switch; under the filter. That may be your issue, as they are prone to break. Also if your filter is not inserted completely. Other than that, it would be hard to determine without more information or being there. Hope that helps.
@@Mini-Driver gracias ,lo reviso , esperemos pueda quedar con eso 👍