Excellent channel. I must say though, in all my 55 years of doing this type of work, I have never used a knife to strip wire, it tends to nick and damage the wire. I have always pinched the insulation with cutters and pulled off the end, thereby not damaging the wire. This is a skill I had to practice.
Yes, but a sharp stanlyknife like a pair of side cutters have seen many a novice nick or cut to deep into the copper and damage the conductor, hence how many times have you pulled off a socket or light switch only to find the wire off, in the main a cable just sitting there waiting for you to come along and snap the wire. The proffessional Electrician has Strippers in his/her tool box, he/she sets them to the correct depth and 100% success rate! The more I see today the more it seems that we have poor training and lack of correct leadership and all the BS Regulations in the World does not make a Good Electrician. Mr Spence Eng
Always good video's, been in the trade for years, enjoy watching as your never to old to learn new tricks. My main preference is to crimp however I found that the closed end splice crimps are better for this scenario. As you can crimp 2+ cables which is good for the CPC side of things. All cables go in the same hole to which I twist together before crimping that way you know you have good continuity. Easier to get the test probes onto copper, and you can always remove crimp with a pair of gland pliers, by squeezing the sides which saves cutting off.
Superb informative video, many thanks. I can't tell you how many times I have seen AMP crimps incorrectly made, so many people seem unaware the jaws are not symmetrical.
Started to see alot more of these now and started having a bit more confidence in them as long as there's something suitable to support them... normally grab an installation pack from Screwfix when house bashing...good for lighting joint boxes
Even though I am in the states, I loved your class! I have never seen a connector like the one you used with the micro screw driver (very interesting)!
I moved from the U.K. to Switzerland a decade ago and the wago connectors were standard even back then. With the wago ones in this video, you can remove the wires if you pull and twist, rather than cutting the wires an wasting a connector.
Was part of the connection thinking to all for metal faced switches which would then require to be conected to a CPC/Earth. It would poss be good practice to select pattresses that had in build earth terminal points - thus allowing for future connection of a metal face plate to CPC.
@@GSHElectrical when I do it I always notice a nicely scored zig zag on the conductor, which demonstrates both how well these wago things bite into the copper but also that you may or may not want to reuse that exact bit of copper (personally, I’m pretty sure it’s surface scoring, but examine your own conscience). But certainly the wago itself can be used more than once.
Interesting video, couple of comments. Using a knife to remove insulation from conductor opens the operative up to cuts on fingers / thumb. Risk mitigation would be to use strippers, I've used the adjustable V notch pliers for donkeys years without issue. Also cutting back the excess conductor, why not use end snips, less cumbersome than pliers. Inserting the single conductor CPC into the Wago, I use long nose pliers on the conductor for insertion after sliding the PVC sleeve back a few mm, adopted this method after a fail on testing. I thought the CPC was fully inserted and it looked it, but testing proved it wasn't. Plier insertion only now.
A few tiny cuts will quickly teach them to be careful. I do agree about the earth conductor and loose screen.. Either pliers or careful visual check on the Wago.
i realise this is a very old video but upon watching i have come up with an question. In this video you used the 5A connector block however in the UK most lighting circuits are protected with over current protection rated at 6 or 10 amps so in theory when these are used to connect the neutral then there is potential of failure there. I'm sure it is an unnoticeable thing and nothing bad would ever come of it as this is how it has been done for years and i have yet to come across one of those overheating from such a cause. anyways, those wagos are great and they also do twist off! keep up the amazing content!
Well spotted, but it has gone on that way since the introduction of 6A MCB's and the reason may well be the same as; have you ever thought why we are allowed to use 0.5 or 0.75mm Cord Flex to the Lighting Pendants when the Max Current is way below a 6A or 10A MCB, the reason given to me by a very Senior Engineer was that it would be highly unlikely that such a heavy current would ever be taken from the Lighting Circuit to the Light Pendant and the same reason is True for a 5A Pvc Strip Connector, but please bear in mind there is a place for everything within the Electrical Industry but intalling connectors into Light Switch Box's is or should only be absolutely nescessary to secure the Switch Wires cpc [But there are Manufacturers who provide a spare Terminal to their Domestic Plate Switches now] and then it should be used in such a way as you take a Pair of 5A Connectors and screw through the center a tiny fixing into the rear pattress to prevent the Strip Connector Floating about within the enclosure. Hope this helps. Mr Spence Eng
Thanks for posting. Very useful. I am starting my C&G level 2 this September. I hope to see more vids in order to help with my course. P.S Can you post up a video showing how to install different types of downlights?
Hi. I have about 150 videos on my channel mostly aimed at the course you are going to study... I hope they help if they do please share it will your fellow learners. I have more on site videos coming up so fingers crossed I have one with downlights. Thanks for commenting and watching GSH Electrical.
Thanks. Some of my early videos are not great but hopefully I am improving. I shoot most of the at 7.30am on my own before staff and learners arrive. Enjoy your journey and good luck I am on Facebook as well thanks Gaz
U guys are really very lucky.. the tools u have are good compared to the crap we get easily there. Here u need to look deep and wen u find its expensive. I know how to but am not certified as I did not get the chance to go to school on financial situations. Do u have online classes or just an exam with the intention of getting a certificate
Hi. It was part of a collection of videos on taking the feed to the switch... try his link th-cam.com/video/k0u8P0PcGlQ/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching GSH Electrical
Having had an awkward job to feed in neutrals for all switches on a hallway to allow for changing to a timed switch that requires its own power, having neutrals run to start with could provide future flexibility. Different styles of intelligent light switches may well start to appear as well in the near future.
I’m a qualified electrician,whose been out the game for a few years ,but am coming back ,this is something I would never have done ,and would consider as bad practice..ie having neutral in a light switch ,when did this come in to be accepted Many thanks Jason
Hi. Reduces conductors at downlights and many wireless switching systems/colour change need a neutral at the switch... hope his helps and thanks for watching GSH Electrical
I agree with Jason. I have always considered that this was bad practice...if there was supposed to be a neutral at a switch location then a terminal would be provided. I do appreciate that modern wiring systems such as downlights and smart switches may dictate different wiring practices
@Ricardo Miller Indeed, it's also much easier for the householder to change to different light fixtures as many of the types supplied by big brand stores don't have loop in terminals, and indeed many don't even have room for them
Soooo useful .. thanks Gaz. Question: My practical 204 (2365) exam is in 6 weeks time. I am 10-thumbs when stuffing stranded singles into buggered ceiling rose plates whose connector threads are stripped bare by the 10 students who used them before me. If I use (buy my own) GENIUS in-sure maintenance free connectors in my 204 exam, do C and G allow this ? (my college won’t care .. they only care about the profit they make 💰) ... I can’t ask C and G cos they won’t communicate with students. Ta muchly
I have always been told not to use through crimps with solid core wire only with stranded wire. I know you was only using 1mm wire but would you use it on 2,5 and higher?
You most certainly can, you just have to ensure you use the correctly rated crimps for the cable size and current rating. You have to use ratchet crimpers. Give the cable a good hard pull to ensure a secure crimp.
We use chinese switchboards. They come with upto 8 switches and 2 sockets. Making wiring them a mess. There isn't enough space inside the box for all those wires.
Thanks. Helpful video, though the zoom in could hv been better. You don't seem to express a preference between the 3? Of the 3 you have shown, it strikes me that the crimp is the more fiddly and potentially hit and miss?!
I don't understand how the continuity from the line to the CPC happens. That would mean that the line wire is shorted to the safety ground somewhere upstream which would rob this downstream circuit of any current? Wouldn't the better test be a continuity test between the return and the CPC? (Disclaimers: I'm in the US and usually the safety ground is connected to the return at the primary breaker panel, not sure if it is similar outside the US. I'm trained in electronics so I understand circuits, but I'm not trained as an electrician so I don't know NEC (or other country equivalent) electrical wiring codes.)
I think the answer is in the description. I have linked the line and cpc (earth) together as if my learners were carrying out a continuity of cpc test on a lighting circuit. Thanks for commenting and watching. Gaz 👍
It always amazes me, in this day and age with all the technology and tools available that we still use a knife. Electrical safety being what it is I thought the use of a knife would have been outlawed, after all, when stripping back the conductor are we not effectively reducing the c.s.a? (yes ok not my much if at all). But when we do nick the copper we are creating a weak point. Maybe it would be good if manufacturers fitted a very small din rail into their back boxes, just for the purpose of conductor termination. OR manufactured the box to suit a small din rail and made it possible for sparkies to purchase said din rail? food for thought.
Hi. The young learners that come to me have little or no hand skills thank to iPads and the Xbox. Using a knife is part of the training to improve these areas no point showing them the easy options straight away (but we do later on). Thanks for watching and commenting GSH Electrical 👍.
GSH Electrical That's exactly my point, the youngsters are bound to cut through the conductors insulation on a bit T&E or flex. Or even worse they will chop thier fingers off.
Those clip devices used in example one are really trick wish wish we had them here in the U.S. but they would never fly for that type of installation no physical connection of the wires like in a wire cap we use ones like them in low voltage communication connections.
Why? is it your intention if you have put the switch on upside down to say that you have adopted the USA Switching practice of having the Switch UP for ON and DOWN for OFF? You do know there is still a correct way of wiring a 1G/1W Plate Light Switch? Mr Spence Eng
I have a question,a strange one, what would be the easiest way to distribute the cabling from one switch to the other in the scenario of masonry walls and RCC slabs?
Running all wires (live continuing as switched, neutral, and earth) through the switchboxes is a great way of future proofing. In two-way (+ intermediate/s) circuits I also run a dedicated unswitched live wire through until the last switch before the light. This allows you to convert any switch in the circuit to a wireless receiver-switch or tap off emergency lighting in the future. If you really want to go all out, which I did in my own house, you can opt to use all 2.5mm² cabling to keep the option open to convert a light circuit over to a mixed circuit by simply tapping off a socket from a switchbox without the need to run wiring from a nearby socket circuit or rewiring the lighting circuit to meet mixed circuit regulations. In my garden I actually had to run a unswitched live all the way to one of the lights since I used an armature that turns on alongside the rest of the garden lights, but also has an integrated PIR sensor so I don't have to turn on all the lights just to quickly get something from/to the garden in the evening, which made me think that might actually be a good practice to just do as standard in a rewire/extension anyways. Sure it uses more copper this way, but it definitely isn't that much harder to install and the bit of extra money spent on the wiring job now might save a lot of money and headaches in the future when something needs to be changed/expanded in a fully finished and decorated room/house/garden.
I think you said you would explain why you would use this method of wiring in a previous video, why would you use this instead of say a 3 plate method ?
Hi. Sorry for the delay I have just finished a 15 hour day. The reason electricians take the feed to the switch is to reduce the cables in the ceiling when fitting things like downlights. I did mention this in the second video but apologise for lack of detail as many of my videos are running alone side my teaching in the classroom and workshop. All the best and thanks for watching GSH Electrical
why do you insist on your students using a knife to strip the conductors? Also when you did the continuity of cpc at the switch did you join the r1/r2 the other end?
Hi. Thanks for the questions sorry for the delay just finished a 15 hour day. We are training our learners to use basic hand tools so we always take the traditional route. Many of our young learners have never see a tool kit let alone used one.... but a tablet that are a whizz on lol no use to me unless they are watching my TH-cam channel 👍. If we showed them all the easy ways they wouldn’t have a clue. Part 2 yes I had linked Line and cpc together as I was doing the continuity test. Hope this helps and thanks for watching GSH Electrical
GSH Electrical fair point. However iv never used or seen anyone use a knife like that to strip, it almost looks awkward/dangerous. Personally I would say a pair of side cutters would be the a more traditional and basic way. Really like your videos btw :-)
Hi. I was trained all those years ago with a knife and one of the exam questions is what tool would you use the remove the PVC insulation from a conductor Answer Knife. Thanks for the lovely comments GSH Electrical.
Why would you take an R1+R2 reading at a 2 plate light switch when that is not the end off the circuit?surley you should be taking it at the last spot light as you said sparkies wire 2 plate usually when you have spots,so how do you know you have an earth at the last metal light fitting?
Hi. On an initial verification you have to prove the continuity of cpc at every point in circuit (including the switches).... also if the lights were say out of reach high in the air like a theatre you may have to take the reading at a switch because of access issues. Thanks for the question and watching GSH Electrical
Whats makes the 2nd connector 5amp? I plan to connect both power and lighting wire for domestic wiring. So do I use 12amp for power and 5 for lighting?
I have found them all to be different sizes, the 5A is just a guide. Best to choose the one you can get all your wires in and tighten. The less empty space round the wires the better.
So the old connecter block wins hands down with easy testing. So new methods aren't always better then. P. S. Do the switch connections last. Is the better way. Not working around it.
I think its bad practice to crimp earth a neutrals in a switch. No they need to be readily disconnected I.E. WAGO lift up connectors or traditional strip connector purely for the reason of fault finding. Crimps have to be cut off and re terminated (not with crimps) you need to be able to disconnect cables and verify their ok no faults or temporary/permanently disconnect in order to get the circuit back on again. It winds me up when I see this when you’re looking for faults (you don’t need this if you’ve been called out in the middle of the might). Also when they screw the earths together and sleeve them with one piece of sleeving you have to unscrew the earths and separate them take the kinks (work hardening the copper) out the wire in order to verify them and re sleeve them separately. I always think people who do this never have to look for faults or have to go back their installations. And I don’t understand why people are saying you can’t take a neutral to a switch why? There’s nothing in the regs to say you can’t. Most guys now are doing this because we are not using ceiling roses anymore and having more fancy fittings which never have enough room for connections (especially wall lights) easier to find faults and disconnect if need be.
Why not let them use automatic strippers. They're an every day tool now that every electrician has. That's like giving a carpenter just a screwdriver and no drill. Sorry. Just a little stupid if you ask me
I do love your videos but I can't understand why you would force your students to use a knife, surely A. it's not as neat and B. can risk damaging the conductors. I understand you were taught this way however times have moved on and we have better tools for certain jobs, I feel you would be better teaching your students how to use the knife ICE but steer them to using proper strippers designed for the job.
It's not that Brits are wacky. It's just WAGO is a company that produces these types of connectors, including push-fit. It's akin to the whole coke/cola thing. You say you're having a coke (brand) but in reality you're having a cola. Brands are often used enough to make it a part of the English language like Kleenex, Google and Coke as mentioned.
Why do you make students use a knife on such some wires 10mm and above yes but out in the real world they are never going to be using a knife if it is lack of money then get them to bring in own
You make your students use a knife to strip insulation because wire strippers are "too easy"? Why are you even in education? You should allow students to work smarter and wire strippers are the proper field tool and safer than a razor blade. After seeing someone slice their hand wide open it makes zero sense using a damn knife blade...
Using a knife? That's stupid, folding over? Oh so you've been shoving that into little apprentices heads as well? Those knifes are for stripping SWA, how to slice your fingers open and use cheap insulating tape as a bandage??
Please please get rid of the stupid knife it's another over priced tool we DON'T need, if you can't strip a cable with a pair of side cutters then your in the wrong trade
I am Shocked, you took me back some 30 odd years to when I first entered the industry and All those dumb practices existed then. Sorry but what I have seen here today is nothing more than Practicing the Magic Art of Bodgery, lets start over here, inserting crimps, wago's,connector blocks left Floating around in any Electrical Accessorie is a Massive No No, Find a Solution, yes there is one and it has been around since the begining of time, ok maybe not that far back but believe me as far back as my career has spanned. Go out and Buy a DP Switch and connect all your Cables into the correctly provided terminals of that Accessory, oh, you have a need to connect a 4 gang plate switch, then use a Grid Switch, this again provides you with all the necessary connection points and cuts out the need to bodge the job as they say. On a final note, Crimping Cables properly to extend their lengths can be an acceptle practice provided the Crimped Joints are Sealed, Heat Shrink is one means of achieving this, no opening is allowed or needed to test as it is considered a permenant fixing, like soldering. We as an industry have not yet arrived as a Communication industry choosing to leave bunches of cables flying around a Cabinett in terminals such as Wago's Mr Spence Eng
Excellent content and channel. Thank you.
Hi. As I have just finished a 15 hour day it’s messages like this one that gives me a lift. Thanks for watching GSH Electrical
Excellent channel. I must say though, in all my 55 years of doing this type of work, I have never used a knife to strip wire, it tends to nick and damage the wire. I have always pinched the insulation with cutters and pulled off the end, thereby not damaging the wire. This is a skill I had to practice.
David Potterus I use me teeth😂😂
Yes, but a sharp stanlyknife like a pair of side cutters have seen many a novice nick or cut to deep into the copper and damage the conductor, hence how many times have you pulled off a socket or light switch only to find the wire off, in the main a cable just sitting there waiting for you to come along and snap the wire.
The proffessional Electrician has Strippers in his/her tool box, he/she sets them to the correct depth and 100% success rate!
The more I see today the more it seems that we have poor training and lack of correct leadership and all the BS Regulations in the World does not make a Good Electrician.
Mr Spence Eng
Extremely informative & very impressed ! Wish you all the best teaching as you voice does it all .
Massive thanks 👍🏻
Always good video's, been in the trade for years, enjoy watching as your never to old to learn new tricks.
My main preference is to crimp however I found that the closed end splice crimps are better for this scenario. As you can crimp 2+ cables which is good for the CPC side of things. All cables go in the same hole to which I twist together before crimping that way you know you have good continuity. Easier to get the test probes onto copper, and you can always remove crimp with a pair of gland pliers, by squeezing the sides which saves cutting off.
Thanks for the wonderful message Gaz 👍
Superb informative video, many thanks. I can't tell you how many times I have seen AMP crimps incorrectly made, so many people seem unaware the jaws are not symmetrical.
Is this true lol. I generally only use uninsulated on my car but I'll need to pay attention if I use the insulated type
I’m a apprentice electrician and your content helps alot
Started to see alot more of these now and started having a bit more confidence in them as long as there's something suitable to support them... normally grab an installation pack from Screwfix when house bashing...good for lighting joint boxes
Even though I am in the states, I loved your class! I have never seen a connector like the one you used with the micro screw driver (very interesting)!
Thanks for commenting and watching. Gaz 👍
I like the Schneider Lisse range of light switches. They provide you with a spare terminal that can be used to join the neutral
I loveeee these videos!! Learn more about circuits on here more than you do at college!!
Thanks for the support Jay. Sunday’s video is about the 2 plate method and connecting LED downlights. Keep working hard it has its rewards. Gaz 🦾
GSH Electrical Thanks Gaz! Appreciate you man
I moved from the U.K. to Switzerland a decade ago and the wago connectors were standard even back then. With the wago ones in this video, you can remove the wires if you pull and twist, rather than cutting the wires an wasting a connector.
Closed Captions with USA Terminologies might be considered.
I see lots of work went into this.
Ok great point - thanks for watching 👍🏻 Gaz
Was part of the connection thinking to all for metal faced switches which would then require to be conected to a CPC/Earth. It would poss be good practice to select pattresses that had in build earth terminal points - thus allowing for future connection of a metal face plate to CPC.
You have sussed it, well done, I am glad someone out there sees the implications of this Bodgery being promoted on this Channel.
Mr Spence Eng
The Wago 2273 can be removed from solid wire by twisting and pulling the wire.
Hi. Yes you can but boy I struggle to do it so I didn’t risk it on camera... what a lightweight I am. Thanks for watching GSH Electrical 😃
@@GSHElectrical when I do it I always notice a nicely scored zig zag on the conductor, which demonstrates both how well these wago things bite into the copper but also that you may or may not want to reuse that exact bit of copper (personally, I’m pretty sure it’s surface scoring, but examine your own conscience). But certainly the wago itself can be used more than once.
Interesting video, couple of comments. Using a knife to remove insulation from conductor opens the operative up to cuts on fingers / thumb. Risk mitigation would be to use strippers, I've used the adjustable V notch pliers for donkeys years without issue. Also cutting back the excess conductor, why not use end snips, less cumbersome than pliers. Inserting the single conductor CPC into the Wago, I use long nose pliers on the conductor for insertion after sliding the PVC sleeve back a few mm, adopted this method after a fail on testing. I thought the CPC was fully inserted and it looked it, but testing proved it wasn't. Plier insertion only now.
A few tiny cuts will quickly teach them to be careful. I do agree about the earth conductor and loose screen.. Either pliers or careful visual check on the Wago.
i realise this is a very old video but upon watching i have come up with an question. In this video you used the 5A connector block however in the UK most lighting circuits are protected with over current protection rated at 6 or 10 amps so in theory when these are used to connect the neutral then there is potential of failure there. I'm sure it is an unnoticeable thing and nothing bad would ever come of it as this is how it has been done for years and i have yet to come across one of those overheating from such a cause. anyways, those wagos are great and they also do twist off! keep up the amazing content!
Thanks 😊👍
Well spotted, but it has gone on that way since the introduction of 6A MCB's and the reason may well be the same as; have you ever thought why we are allowed to use 0.5 or 0.75mm Cord Flex to the Lighting Pendants when the Max Current is way below a 6A or 10A MCB, the reason given to me by a very Senior Engineer was that it would be highly unlikely that such a heavy current would ever be taken from the Lighting Circuit to the Light Pendant and the same reason is True for a 5A Pvc Strip Connector, but please bear in mind there is a place for everything within the Electrical Industry but intalling connectors into Light Switch Box's is or should only be absolutely nescessary to secure the Switch Wires cpc [But there are Manufacturers who provide a spare Terminal to their Domestic Plate Switches now] and then it should be used in such a way as you take a Pair of 5A Connectors and screw through the center a tiny fixing into the rear pattress to prevent the Strip Connector Floating about within the enclosure.
Hope this helps.
Mr Spence Eng
Thanks for posting. Very useful. I am starting my C&G level 2 this September. I hope to see more vids in order to help with my course.
P.S Can you post up a video showing how to install different types of downlights?
Hi. I have about 150 videos on my channel mostly aimed at the course you are going to study... I hope they help if they do please share it will your fellow learners. I have more on site videos coming up so fingers crossed I have one with downlights. Thanks for commenting and watching GSH Electrical.
GSH Electrical Thanks mate!! You're a top bloke!
Thanks. Some of my early videos are not great but hopefully I am improving. I shoot most of the at 7.30am on my own before staff and learners arrive. Enjoy your journey and good luck I am on Facebook as well thanks Gaz
Great video 👏🏻
U guys are really very lucky.. the tools u have are good compared to the crap we get easily there. Here u need to look deep and wen u find its expensive.
I know how to but am not certified as I did not get the chance to go to school on financial situations. Do u have online classes or just an exam with the intention of getting a certificate
Is this just a demonstration on the connector blocks? Trying to wonder why you have neutrals at the switch. Great videos by the way
Hi. It was part of a collection of videos on taking the feed to the switch... try his link th-cam.com/video/k0u8P0PcGlQ/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching GSH Electrical
Having had an awkward job to feed in neutrals for all switches on a hallway to allow for changing to a timed switch that requires its own power, having neutrals run to start with could provide future flexibility. Different styles of intelligent light switches may well start to appear as well in the near future.
You can remove the cables from the ‘one hit wonders’ if you pull the cable and twist the connector at same time
I’m a qualified electrician,whose been out the game for a few years ,but am coming back ,this is something I would never have done ,and would consider as bad practice..ie having neutral in a light switch ,when did this come in to be accepted
Many thanks
Jason
Hi. Reduces conductors at downlights and many wireless switching systems/colour change need a neutral at the switch... hope his helps and thanks for watching GSH Electrical
I agree with Jason. I have always considered that this was bad practice...if there was supposed to be a neutral at a switch location then a terminal would be provided.
I do appreciate that modern wiring systems such as downlights and smart switches may dictate different wiring practices
@Ricardo Miller Indeed, it's also much easier for the householder to change to different light fixtures as many of the types supplied by big brand stores don't have loop in terminals, and indeed many don't even have room for them
Bs7671 leans towards advising a neutral is installed at switch locations to future proof a installation
Neutral at the switch is required for some home automation switches & dimmers.
Soooo useful .. thanks Gaz. Question: My practical 204 (2365) exam is in 6 weeks time. I am 10-thumbs when stuffing stranded singles into buggered ceiling rose plates whose connector threads are stripped bare by the 10 students who used them before me. If I use (buy my own) GENIUS in-sure maintenance free connectors in my 204 exam, do C and G allow this ? (my college won’t care .. they only care about the profit they make 💰) ... I can’t ask C and G cos they won’t communicate with students. Ta muchly
I have always been told not to use through crimps with solid core wire only with stranded wire.
I know you was only using 1mm wire but would you use it on 2,5 and higher?
You most certainly can, you just have to ensure you use the correctly rated crimps for the cable size and current rating. You have to use ratchet crimpers. Give the cable a good hard pull to ensure a secure crimp.
We use chinese switchboards. They come with upto 8 switches and 2 sockets. Making wiring them a mess. There isn't enough space inside the box for all those wires.
One the wagos if u twist and pull they come off and you can reuse the same one and you can get one with the levers
Thanks. Helpful video, though the zoom in could hv been better. You don't seem to express a preference between the 3? Of the 3 you have shown, it strikes me that the crimp is the more fiddly and potentially hit and miss?!
Great content
Knife to cut the insulation off??? You have pliers right??
Id personally connect the switch last, gets in the way otherwise. Especially on a multigang switch.
Is the part about turning the crimps upside down true? Never seen that before
I don't understand how the continuity from the line to the CPC happens. That would mean that the line wire is shorted to the safety ground somewhere upstream which would rob this downstream circuit of any current? Wouldn't the better test be a continuity test between the return and the CPC?
(Disclaimers: I'm in the US and usually the safety ground is connected to the return at the primary breaker panel, not sure if it is similar outside the US. I'm trained in electronics so I understand circuits, but I'm not trained as an electrician so I don't know NEC (or other country equivalent) electrical wiring codes.)
I think the answer is in the description. I have linked the line and cpc (earth) together as if my learners were carrying out a continuity of cpc test on a lighting circuit.
Thanks for commenting and watching. Gaz 👍
It always amazes me, in this day and age with all the technology and tools available that we still use a knife. Electrical safety being what it is I thought the use of a knife would have been outlawed, after all, when stripping back the conductor are we not effectively reducing the c.s.a? (yes ok not my much if at all). But when we do nick the copper we are creating a weak point.
Maybe it would be good if manufacturers fitted a very small din rail into their back boxes, just for the purpose of conductor termination. OR manufactured the box to suit a small din rail and made it possible for sparkies to purchase said din rail? food for thought.
Hi. The young learners that come to me have little or no hand skills thank to iPads and the Xbox. Using a knife is part of the training to improve these areas no point showing them the easy options straight away (but we do later on). Thanks for watching and commenting GSH Electrical 👍.
GSH Electrical That's exactly my point, the youngsters are bound to cut through the conductors insulation on a bit T&E or flex. Or even worse they will chop thier fingers off.
Those clip devices used in example one are really trick wish wish we had them here in the U.S. but they would never fly for that type of installation no physical connection of the wires like in a wire cap we use ones like them in low voltage communication connections.
Take a look online for Wago connectors they are a massive part of any electricians kit. Thanks for commenting and watching Gaz 👍
Wago connectors have been in use and UL listed in the U.S since the 1980s....
Ok many thanks ,your videos are very informative👍
hi. great vid. just a heads up as far as i am aware you can remove the cables from the wago by twisting them
here is a vid showing you how to remove them. If you watch it from 2:04 onwards.
th-cam.com/video/Cz2jle06crA/w-d-xo.html
Hi. Yes u can but it’s not easy. Thanks for watching all the best GSH Electrical
The switch will have top marked on it . It makes no difference which way round you put the 2 brown wires.
Why? is it your intention if you have put the switch on upside down to say that you have adopted the USA Switching practice of having the Switch UP for ON and DOWN for OFF?
You do know there is still a correct way of wiring a 1G/1W Plate Light Switch?
Mr Spence Eng
Thank you GSH 👍
I have a question,a strange one, what would be the easiest way to distribute the cabling from one switch to the other in the scenario of masonry walls and RCC slabs?
so in this case neutral will come to switch first then go to the light fitting, rather than directly going to the light fitting
That’s correct 👍
th-cam.com/video/k0u8P0PcGlQ/w-d-xo.html
Running all wires (live continuing as switched, neutral, and earth) through the switchboxes is a great way of future proofing. In two-way (+ intermediate/s) circuits I also run a dedicated unswitched live wire through until the last switch before the light. This allows you to convert any switch in the circuit to a wireless receiver-switch or tap off emergency lighting in the future. If you really want to go all out, which I did in my own house, you can opt to use all 2.5mm² cabling to keep the option open to convert a light circuit over to a mixed circuit by simply tapping off a socket from a switchbox without the need to run wiring from a nearby socket circuit or rewiring the lighting circuit to meet mixed circuit regulations.
In my garden I actually had to run a unswitched live all the way to one of the lights since I used an armature that turns on alongside the rest of the garden lights, but also has an integrated PIR sensor so I don't have to turn on all the lights just to quickly get something from/to the garden in the evening, which made me think that might actually be a good practice to just do as standard in a rewire/extension anyways.
Sure it uses more copper this way, but it definitely isn't that much harder to install and the bit of extra money spent on the wiring job now might save a lot of money and headaches in the future when something needs to be changed/expanded in a fully finished and decorated room/house/garden.
I was told you should never crimp a solid copper core? What's everyone else think about this?
Checkout my eFIXX TH-cam channel for a follow up on crimps 👍🏻… you have a good point 🤔
Hi. Do you have a video for removing a redundant light and switch that is part if the light ring main
What about wire nuts?
I think you said you would explain why you would use this method of wiring in a previous video, why would you use this instead of say a 3 plate method ?
Hi. Sorry for the delay I have just finished a 15 hour day. The reason electricians take the feed to the switch is to reduce the cables in the ceiling when fitting things like downlights. I did mention this in the second video but apologise for lack of detail as many of my videos are running alone side my teaching in the classroom and workshop. All the best and thanks for watching GSH Electrical
GSH Electrical no worries thanks for the reply and keep the videos coming 👍🏻
Thanks for the support GSH Electrical
Plus this way gives you the option in the future to fit "smart" light switches👍🏻
I don't understand why you'd have continuity between cpc and line?
I have them linked as if you were carrying out the continuity of cpc test. See description 🦾. Thanks for watching and commenting. Gaz
why do you insist on your students using a knife to strip the conductors?
Also when you did the continuity of cpc at the switch did you join the r1/r2 the other end?
Hi. Thanks for the questions sorry for the delay just finished a 15 hour day. We are training our learners to use basic hand tools so we always take the traditional route. Many of our young learners have never see a tool kit let alone used one.... but a tablet that are a whizz on lol no use to me unless they are watching my TH-cam channel 👍. If we showed them all the easy ways they wouldn’t have a clue. Part 2 yes I had linked Line and cpc together as I was doing the continuity test. Hope this helps and thanks for watching GSH Electrical
GSH Electrical fair point. However iv never used or seen anyone use a knife like that to strip, it almost looks awkward/dangerous. Personally I would say a pair of side cutters would be the a more traditional and basic way. Really like your videos btw :-)
Hi. I was trained all those years ago with a knife and one of the exam questions is what tool would you use the remove the PVC insulation from a conductor Answer Knife. Thanks for the lovely comments GSH Electrical.
GSH Electrical thanks for the reply :-)
Keep the videos coming. They are helping me with my studies and training
GSH Electrical Ahh - We aren't allowed to use a knife to cut insulation. We only teach the use of a stripper, and linesman pliers.
Why would you take an R1+R2 reading at a 2 plate light switch when that is not the end off the circuit?surley you should be taking it at the last spot light as you said sparkies wire 2 plate usually when you have spots,so how do you know you have an earth at the last metal light fitting?
Hi. On an initial verification you have to prove the continuity of cpc at every point in circuit (including the switches).... also if the lights were say out of reach high in the air like a theatre you may have to take the reading at a switch because of access issues. Thanks for the question and watching GSH Electrical
Am I correct in thinking normally only the live to be connected to switch. Thankbu worded that right
Hi. The line is passed through the switch as it’s single pole device. The neutrals are just connected together. Thanks Gaz
Whats makes the 2nd connector 5amp? I plan to connect both power and lighting wire for domestic wiring. So do I use 12amp for power and 5 for lighting?
I have found them all to be different sizes, the 5A is just a guide. Best to choose the one you can get all your wires in and tighten. The less empty space round the wires the better.
5:22 incorrect. Read the manual. You can remove the conductor by twisting and pulling it at the same time.
choc blocks all day for me
So the old connecter block wins hands down with easy testing.
So new methods aren't always better then.
P. S. Do the switch connections last. Is the better way. Not working around it.
We use a knife? I use me teeth😂😂
Probabley a Good Idea, that way no damage to the copper and you can tell if it's live! at the same time (:
Mr Spence Eng
I think its bad practice to crimp earth a neutrals in a switch. No they need to be readily disconnected I.E. WAGO lift up connectors or traditional strip connector purely for the reason of fault finding. Crimps have to be cut off and re terminated (not with crimps) you need to be able to disconnect cables and verify their ok no faults or temporary/permanently disconnect in order to get the circuit back on again. It winds me up when I see this when you’re looking for faults (you don’t need this if you’ve been called out in the middle of the might). Also when they screw the earths together and sleeve them with one piece of sleeving you have to unscrew the earths and separate them take the kinks (work hardening the copper) out the wire in order to verify them and re sleeve them separately. I always think people who do this never have to look for faults or have to go back their installations. And I don’t understand why people are saying you can’t take a neutral to a switch why? There’s nothing in the regs to say you can’t. Most guys now are doing this because we are not using ceiling roses anymore and having more fancy fittings which never have enough room for connections (especially wall lights) easier to find faults and disconnect if need be.
Am i correct in thinking normally would only be switching line and lve to connect on switch plate. Plus cpc to brass screw in back box
Correct
@@GSHElectrical thank u
Do you stop your learners using calculators as well? who needs technology when you can use an abacus
Our learners have spent years with game’s controllers and iPads in their hands we are building up hand skills by using things like knifes.
Why would you use a knife
Amazing channel but unfortunately the wago still expensive unless we buy direct from China and maybe not BS.
There are knock off wagos from china and they are a hazard/ d9nt hold wires
wHAT IS cpc -earth leakage?
Circuit Protective Conductor
AKA - earth or ground
It's the Earth conductor before people trying to aggrandise the simple issues got involved. Think bin men versus waste collection operative.
Which College do u work at?
Hi. Tresham College in Northamptonshire 👍
@@GSHElectrical how do I get into teaching ?
Why not let them use automatic strippers. They're an every day tool now that every electrician has. That's like giving a carpenter just a screwdriver and no drill. Sorry. Just a little stupid if you ask me
the cpc you mean grounds
Cpc circuits protective conductor also can be call earth or in the US ground. Thanks for watching GSH Electrical 👍
I do love your videos but I can't understand why you would force your students to use a knife, surely A. it's not as neat and B. can risk damaging the conductors. I understand you were taught this way however times have moved on and we have better tools for certain jobs, I feel you would be better teaching your students how to use the knife ICE but steer them to using proper strippers designed for the job.
Stripping Twin and Earth Cable’s - Electricians’ Knife vs Twin and Earth Cable Strippers th-cam.com/video/Xbdp-ziEzqg/w-d-xo.html
So funny to hear you refer to push-fit connectors as 'Wago-style", which is the term I'd use to describe lever-lock connectors. Wacky Brits!
It's not that Brits are wacky. It's just WAGO is a company that produces these types of connectors, including push-fit. It's akin to the whole coke/cola thing. You say you're having a coke (brand) but in reality you're having a cola. Brands are often used enough to make it a part of the English language like Kleenex, Google and Coke as mentioned.
A knife to strip the insulation? You serious lol. Absurd method
Standard connector block only, others are lazy and a fire waiting to happen
Hay algo llamado zoom en las cámaras
Vídeo no sirve
Why do you make students use a knife on such some wires 10mm and above yes but out in the real world they are never going to be using a knife if it is lack of money then get them to bring in own
You make your students use a knife to strip insulation because wire strippers are "too easy"? Why are you even in education? You should allow students to work smarter and wire strippers are the proper field tool and safer than a razor blade. After seeing someone slice their hand wide open it makes zero sense using a damn knife blade...
Using a knife? That's stupid, folding over? Oh so you've been shoving that into little apprentices heads as well?
Those knifes are for stripping SWA, how to slice your fingers open and use cheap insulating tape as a bandage??
Please please get rid of the stupid knife it's another over priced tool we DON'T need, if you can't strip a cable with a pair of side cutters then your in the wrong trade
7:29 NEVER EVER use the "standard 5 amp connector blocks". The screw joints will loosen over time and then you have it ...
Hi. Totally agree I am not a fan of connector blocks I have seen to many of them melted due to loose connection. All the best GSH Electrical
Properly used screw terminal connector blocks last for many years, I have never seen through crimps used in any wiring in my life.
Through crimps are banned in many areas of electrical engineering.
I am Shocked, you took me back some 30 odd years to when I first entered the industry and All those dumb practices existed then. Sorry but what I have seen here today is nothing more than Practicing the Magic Art of Bodgery, lets start over here, inserting crimps, wago's,connector blocks left Floating around in any Electrical Accessorie is a Massive No No, Find a Solution, yes there is one and it has been around since the begining of time, ok maybe not that far back but believe me as far back as my career has spanned. Go out and Buy a DP Switch and connect all your Cables into the correctly provided terminals of that Accessory, oh, you have a need to connect a 4 gang plate switch, then use a Grid Switch, this again provides you with all the necessary connection points and cuts out the need to bodge the job as they say.
On a final note, Crimping Cables properly to extend their lengths can be an acceptle practice provided the Crimped Joints are Sealed, Heat Shrink is one means of achieving this, no opening is allowed or needed to test as it is considered a permenant fixing, like soldering.
We as an industry have not yet arrived as a Communication industry choosing to leave bunches of cables flying around a Cabinett in terminals such as Wago's
Mr Spence Eng
Using a knife is idiotic