Excellent presentation, Matt. THANK YOU. Decades ago on my very first (part time) job as a teenager my boss used to tell me, “Son, what you don’t do with your brain you have to do with your back.” On automotive, what you don’t do with your brain you have to do with a wrench. Thanks again for showing the way on using the brain on auto diag and repair.
Thanks for sharing! That is great, great advice. Actually most mechanics I have known have had bad backs too. turning a wrench is often bad on your back so the less you do it and the more you can do on a computer or using a dry erase board, the longer the career you will have! I will have to use your old boss’s advice in my next video. I love that.
@@SchrodingersBox Quote originator's name is Stillman Terry, and I heard that quote from him more than once from 1975-1977 when I worked for him in the Village Butcher shop in Annandale, VA. He was a meat cutter by trade, and could cut up a steer and then put it back together and it would walk away ( ;-) ). He's a retired Green Beret. I got a lot of valuable lifelong wisdom thanks to him. :-)
Try not to get annoyed by comments there are way to many people who are willing to share their less than helpful comments, love your videos it’s a pleasure to watch someone who skillfully methodically does their job and shares their wisdom of how to work smart.
Thank you for your precious explainations. With P0336, my Citroën C4 1,6 16V sounded like a lawn mower. When I stopped engine during about twenty seconds before restart, I could accelerate normally once again. I've replaced the spark plugs this afternoon. For the moment, I no longer have P0336 and no longer roug stalling. 9:00
The background story, the case study and mapping procedure, this is keys to success. I appreciate this kind of thought, this kind of logical and technical approach to a scenario. Im currently dealing with a crank no start issue which had a camshaft sensor signal error on the scan tool and we've already detected shoddy wiring. We havent gone through the entire harness but at the connector itself was some damaged wiring and bad soldering and connections made. Replaced the sensor but still no start. So ill test the sensor wiring once the mechanic arrives tomorrow or before he gets here and we'll see how this gets us. Thanks,. Happy to have invested 31 minutes of my life in this informative video. Much appreciated from Cape Town, South Africa.
Definitely helped me along the way of electrical problems! Definitely puts a lot of work into making time to give others a on point tutorial! A lot of respect! Thank you.
Like how you used a process . Thinking about the facts , diagnosing the root cause , planning an efficient course of action, and verifying the fix. Also like the way you allowed your lady to have a role ! You looked at the camera and simply resumed coaching us after she fixed your hair nice . 👍🏼
All credit to Vicki here - it's amazing what a great stylist can do to ensure that we aren't subjected to repairs by Foghorn Leghorn in a baseball cap. I will admit that those tricky shots underneath the vehicle were pretty impressive too. Great tutorial. 🐓
This channel is absolutely awesome I love how you break down the diagnostics.Ive been having a similar issue with my wife's 2008 Chevy suburban the car is hard to crank than the traction control deactivates no signal to the tack at all car will drive with a p 305 code but hard shifts into second gear pings and runs like crap. I reset the engine code and the car runs solid for a few days and all of a sudden just decides it wants to act up.I look at the live data on the scanner and it doesn't even have a hiccup while driving. The other issues is a slow crank like it's got a dragging starter or bad ground things giving me one hell of a headache but after watching this I know I need to look at these wires and see what the hecks going on.
Scotty is good for entertainment and basic information. Matt is a scientist/mechanic who's great for determining the truth. I can actually hear the wiring/short in my 08' Subaru, AFTER the "reputable" local shop replaced the ecu , which didn't solve the problem, and, after I got a "BlueDriver" obd2 scan tool which immediately caught a crankshaft position sensor code. "Tickling" my Subaru ( visual inspection and listening ) has me moving scientifically closer to the Truth.
You are the best i have a 97 gmc 4.3 v6 vortex having the same issue with the crank position sensor . you have explained and i gotta say im hands on although u did a wonderful presentation and covered everything that needed to be shown in how to diagnose the p codes thank you for doing wat u do .
absolutely love your tuition and in depth methods. ive gotta admit i 'was once' a part changer but really enjoying the understanding how it works and live readings before judgment . love this channel !
I told you that The greatest thing come free, it takes a great human being to share this kind of info in detail. You reminded me of the time I was back at school! This will relief 😮💨 a lot of head aches! Thanks 🙏🏿! You are a great man!
diagnostic king of youtube 👑 im racking of my brain trying to figure out what this 6.0L gm motor is doing. getting no codes but reduced power, chugging and chocking, stalling, not starting up immediately...still no check engine light, ive checked the obvious...ignition...air intake, to catalytic convertors...i dont know what to do next
Your pretty straight forward; i can say cause these real life scenarios can be a pain but i like the one with the cks your initionally saying is if you have a good referance, by replacing the cks is a sure fix if the wires are not broken
If you have a good reference AND ground AND signal integrity then and only then is it guaranteed replacing the CKPS will fix it if there is no CKPS output.
changed CSPS, still Same 335,336 with 07 6.7 Ram, then exhaust filter 80%, retired just putt about small town, drove on freeway(UGH) 50 miles Exhaust msg cleared. still 335,336. Thanks will try this now...
I've been having an issue with my 2015 fiat 500. Initially i was getting P0336 and i went to the fiat dealership to get it replaced. After getting my car back it barely started. Went straight to autozone and was getting P0336 still along with another code stating that the sensor needed a relearn. Brought it back to the dealership for them to relearn the sensor. Went home and realized that the 3 page report they gave me only showed them updating the ECU to a new version, nothing was mentioned in the report of an actual relearn. Getting the same codes. Not sure what to do at this point.
Start with the extreme basics: What are your signal voltages showing? What’s your reference voltage? By the way a relearn has nothing to do with timing or anything. A relearn is to allow the sensor to calibrate for cylinder misfire identification. Not doing a relearn has no effect on performance- it will just affect accuracy of the misfire detection.
Ok, this is just a niggly bit not even about the car. One of the things you will see other TH-cam automotive repair channels do is when they are introducing a car to the audience they will typically show at least a portion of the vehicle. I know, it's just a sort of comfort thing but it helps. Do what you want, I will keep watching your stuff whether you like it or not.😁. You already know I like them all.
I did initially show the truck but I edited it out because it was so big it couldn’t be shown in a single frame of view so I figured there was no point.
These will drive you crazy because the cam and crank are supplied by the same 12v in the pcm. I remember an 05 doesn't show they are shared but what happens is an oil leak at the top of the engine breaks the wires down and shorts out the 12v on the connector to the cam. Many times it only shows a crank sensor code but will be a no start. If that 12v is pulled down to about 8v it will make it run like poo or set 300 code
Hi probably too late to get a response on this, but I’ve got this issue, noticed oil out of the camshaft / crankshaft connector into the DME, and still got intermittent running (stalls when hot) after replacing crank and both cam sensors. Do you have more detail on this issue? I can’t work out how the oil is getting into the wires?
Wow. A great person and excellent videos. The video that I just watched might be the best TH-cam help video that I have ever seen. He goes into detail and I found that so helpful and complete. GREAT. Thanks for making this video !!!
You could also test each connector pin with the car shut off using an ohm meter, by back probing a pin with one lead and probing the other end with the other lead and then wiggling it. If it deviates even the smallest amount from zero, you have a bad connection. Doing it this way is also safer as long as you probe each pin to ground first to make sure there isn't any live power. Unlikely that there is, but better to be safe than sorry.
I had the same p0335 code on a 2007 G6 GT 3.9L .. I changed the knock sensor out with one from O’Reillys and the code still came back. I double checked the wiring with a multimeter from the connector up to the top of the harness and both the wires were good so I knew that it wasn’t the connector or the wiring, so I bought a AC Delco knock sensor, and put that in and everything is good, no more check engine light!
Yup some third party or after market crank and knock sensors won’t work in certain brands of especially GM and Nissans are notoriously hateful of aftermarket sensors a lot of aftermarket cam and crankshaft sensors will not work on Nissans Nissan tech told me they don’t put out the proper voltage reference
Here I was getting excited to see the piercing probes come out to play and all we needed was the wiggle test. That saved precious moments and gives more Sunday afternoon beer drinking time. haha
yeah it’s funny you say that- I was going to use the pierce probes but the CKPS wiring goes right into another harness that is still behind the starter so you still can’t access even with probes without removing the starter. no way around it, starter has to come out.
@@SchrodingersBox good old fashion GM engineering.🤷♂️ I've known to poke those wires at or near the PCM to take a look see. The good point Matt is the truck is fixed and somebody owes you a few drinks. 😉
I just changed my CPS 2014 Hyundai accent GLS 1.6 liter before I replaced it it kept stalling. Now it’s jerky jerky runs like crap. Do I need to have it relearned to get it to run good
Matt, I am having the same issue with my 2006 3500 15pax van. Runs decent when cold, VERY intermittent rough run/complete stall when warm. Currently has the P0335 code. Your thorough approach and detailed explanation is FANTASTIC! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us! I will let you know what I find out tomorrow when troubleshooting, but using your scientific method, I am guessing a wiring short as well. Cheers from a 5280 native!
Dear Matt, i have the same problem with my yukon 2008 model i change three sensor still same when cold start car is perfect after got some heat the check engine light flashing and code p0335 . Can you please tell me how you solve the problem
@@SchrodingersBoxi have a 2004 chevy silverado 4.8 and it died on me coming home from work. I changed the crankshaft sensor and now it starts up but onece it reaches temperature it shuts off and don’t start anymore. I don’t have no codes anymore
Thanx 4 the video! My 100th anniversary harley truck has this same problem! Replaced sensor twice now! What a pain! I am convinced it’s in the wiring! Can unplug & replug it in & it’ll start! Sometimes! Intermittent problem! I’m thinking the factory original was not faulty afterall!
Hey Matt, I have a diagnostic question. I'm working on a vehicle nearly identical to the one in this video. It is a cranking no start scenario with no pule signal to the injectors and no spark. I have a positive reference at the cps plug, and the fuel pump kicks on when I do the crank bypass shown in this video. What I don't have at the plug is a constant ground. Would you lean towards crankshaft position sensor with this information, or chase the lack of ground?
@@SchrodingersBox I was unable to find any broken wires, and it looks like that ground goes into the fuse box. Would this ground be ecu controlled? Could I short that wire to ground to close the loop without damaging anything electrically?
After some more wire wiggling, the ground reference fell out of the plug going to the crankshaft position sensor. I replaced the plug and the vehicle fired right up. Thank you so much for your help with this! In hindsight, I should have pierced the wire further up, but I hate exposing wires to the elements. Thanks again!
I have this and did the same thing this guy did. (Replace ckp sensor) No shop will help me further and they say they don’t do those codes and I’m in a small town. Car runs rough and bucks and sputters and rpm needle drops at warm up temp. Crazy how you make it seem so simple yet two years of my life have been hell replacing plugs ,wires, coil pack ,batteries and wires. Even removed the catalytic converter. Can’t tell you what a pain this code is p0036
Thanks man, I appreciate that. actually about 80% of the time I am fixing someone else’s mistakes. I almost get the car after several others tried to fix it.
You know those who watch SCOTTY KILMER are really loking for Comedy relief he has no logic about what he do'es on Cars thank you Matt for the great Videos.
The only tool used in this video is schrodinger himself What a pathetic instructor Obviously it makes you feel like a big man calling down people looking for help You're a real piece of work
I disconnected mine and replaced the O ring and reconnected and now I have issues, lots of oil in my connection so I’m thinking I have the same problem
Hey, just have the po336 code only, for my undesirable po335 never came on. Anyhow, i done my checks, my ground is good and reference is good, but when i do the ckp bypass, i don’t hear the fuel pump. What is your thoughts on this? (Learning as i go with wiring) (P.S it’s a gen v, different color wiring but its the same set up)
Will this problem also trip reduced power mode? My Yukon 6.0L is experiencing P0336 intermittent and after warm up. Then a very noticeable clunking sound, runs extremely rough and goes into reduced power mode. I then turn it off, restart and I’m good to go for a day or so
Very good. What I am trying to figure out is how to identify a crank sensor problem in a Holley Terminator X. The car has an intermitent stall or bog at WOT only. Off the line of while cruising.
This week I fixed my friend's 2000 Volvo V70 II which had a similar issue and similar cause. He just bought it and the previous owner had the cam and crankshaft sensor replaced for about 250€ and it didn't fix the problem. My scan tool can't read Volvo DTCs, but a shop confirmed there were still cam and crank sensor codes and a VVT solenoid code. I started the hard way and removed the ECM to check the wiring and it all turned out good. Later I bought some thin needles to probe the signals of the sensors with my oscilloscope (would've been lot easier to start with that lol). The crank sensor had a good signal but the cam sensor had a very untidy signal intermittently (it's supposed to square from 0-5V and then was very glitchy). First I suspected my needle but it had good contact. Then I disassembled the connector ans bent the spring taps back into shape to give it more preload. The signal was clean now and the engine ran fine without misfires and didn't have a hard start anymore. tl;dr: the scientific approach once again could have saved a lot of money if the previous shop had diagnosed the issue before changing parts 😀
Oh and regarding 20:40 I had the same issue with those shrink tubes with solder inside as well. They got brittle after just two years and the soldering inside was very poor to begin with. I really can't recommend using them. They were used on the temperature sensor of the same Volvo (even though the connection didn't fail (yet)).
Im having this issue on my 07 yukon everything is good on cold start, after warm up i shut it off & it sounds like a dead battery when cranking takes long to start & when it does the rpm doesn't work rhe ac doesn't work the cooling fans work weak causing antifreeze to bubble up stabilitrac traction control light comes on throws a p0336 then throws a p0335. Could the wiring cause this as the one you worked on or what should i check? Thanks
@SchrodingersBox thanks for the quick response, im going to try to work on it tomorrow if i have time & will definitely get back to you. Thanks so much
I changed my cps and fuel pump on Chevrolet Express, and as soon as it warmed up it dies, no codes. After watching this video I went and took out my cps pigtail and saw the wires are exposed and coved in oil. Went to junk yard bought new pigtail for 3$, wired it up and it runs now.
I have possibly an issue with crank or cam sensor. My 2006 Silverado stalls after idling for approx 10-13 min. Every time. I’ve driven it and runs fine but still cuts off as if someone turned the ignition. No bucking no loss of power or anything out of the ordinary. It’s as if it cuts off once it’s reached operating temp. I replaced crank sensor still same issue. Was thinking to replace cam sensor as well see if it fixes but not sure if I should start with doing a relearn on crank sensor?
A relearn is strictly for the misfire counting calibration. It had nothing to do with its normal function at all. Instead of doing a relearn, just check the signal voltage instead and see if it’s faulty.
Damn wish you lived next door I have never seen anyone with your knowledge explaining code issues like this , Don't worry about your hair buddy You Rock ! Thanks !
I have a question for you. There seems tto be alot of issues with BCM system,with water leaking into Hummers and it creating a mess of electrical issues. Not only that these GM cars and truck from the early 2000's have electric issues. I have ad H3 Hummer, that has haall kind of electrical issues because of water coming in from the leaky sunroof,and draining down the a pillar and getting to the BCM. Now the sunroof has been siliconed and so no water is coming in. Now the question,I replaced the BCM with a preprogrammed unit,and went through the 30 min passlock system relearn and the car wouldn't start. Did it several times and still nothing. Notice that the crank sensor code along wiht air pump code is on,so the car isnt gonna start with the key. But if I tried using just the remote start and did the 10 min reset for 30 minutes and the car starts up,but will not start with key. In the beginning there were 2 codes on the crank sensor and the air pump,both parts were replaced and the codes never shut off, I think the car is not starting from the key because the crank sensor code is still on,check the fuses and wires for breakage,every problem sight of a ground missing,nothing!
I recently replaced my distributor on my 5.7 vortec Silverado. Number one cylinder top dead center on compression stroke. Like it should be. Distributor is at the number one point position like it should be. It starts fine runs pretty good and not throwing any codes But my timing advance is reading Negative 24 at idle and gets more negative in higher rpms. Ive re installed the distributor numerous times and even tried a different ecm. And its always roughly the same negative advance. Can you tell me what it might be??
@@SchrodingersBox yeah i was kind of think that but I wanted to get a second opinion. I used a cap with a hole in it to check spark. And its going straight to the diode. So ita not the distributor i dont think And as i mentioned it starts and runs good Didn't make sense hownit could run so good and the timing advance be soo off So i was thinking maybe it needed a crank relearn lol. But i guess I'll find out when i get it on a cmp reader
@@SchrodingersBox i believe my base for misfire detection is anything over +15 or -15 It runs fine at its current-22.4 advance. But when i rotate the distributor it throws a misfire code at around -12 ish and wont hardly run I was just trying to figure out what exactly it was. I was told it could be a tooth out. I may need to buy a scan tool to correct the issue
My sister had a 03 Nissan Pathfinder with p0335 that had the exact symptoms he described before swapping the crankshaft position sensor. I could never get confirmation it was the sensor and it only threw the code one out of maybe every 10 times it refused to start so I suspected it was just a referenced code. The only thing I could find wrong for sure is the fuel pump was out of spec, only giving about half of it's rated fuel pressure. Not fully understanding the mechanisms but trusting in the data I had, I decided to replace the fuel pump. Completely resolved the issue. I suspect what was happening was the vehicle had no way of knowing it had died due to being starved of fuel, so it threw a crankshaft position sensor when it saw the crank was no longer spinning. What the PCM didn't know is that was legitimate, the crankshaft _really wasn't_ turning anymore due to a sudden loss of fuel. I further suspect the fuel injectors have a very specific pressure that they will no longer open at all (thinking like a "burst pressure"), causing the low fuel pressure issue to go from "running fine" to "not running at all". Moral of the story is if you see p0335 or other similar codes, don't just go replacing the crankshaft position sensor.
Great job. Watched whole video. Because I had new connector replaced. They are saying it's my Reluctor and Crankshaft. Does the engine has to be pulled for that?
Where would you have started with code P0336 ? I let my suburban 5.3 sit for about a month or more starting it occasionally. I left the hood cracked the past two weeks because I just added a leveling kit. When I went to turn it back on it was dead and has probably been dead for at least two weeks. Could this cause the computer to lose memory to the crankshaft sensor? I plan on researching more and your video certainly is a great start to diagnosing my issue. I think the thing I am going to hate the most about this is having to take off the starter. That's a pretty crappy task. My suburban is an 08' z71 I wonder if they have changed the location of these sensors since. I doubt it though. Let me know how you would have done this alternatively with code P0336 instead of P0335.
on a P0336 I would probably just start with a Crank Sensor bypass and verify consistency of my own Input to determine electrical or mechanical right off the bat.
Please a answer a question for me: my 2007 Toyota Rav4 4cyl 2.4 L engine, has a no start problem only when engine is hot. But i get no trouble codes what so ever Should I change the Crankshaft position Sensor regardless. Other than that this Rav4 runs great all of the time.
Hi! I have a 2006 Chrysler Town and Country. I replaced the crankshaft sensor, no codes were popping up related to the sensor but I was just going down the line of parts for another situation...I am now in the position of the video, where the car is running worse and I now have codes 0339 and 0335. Is it the relearn process that is doing this? Blessings!
The relearn has nothing to do with sensor performance. It’s strictly for misfire calibration. Start with the basics and look at your sensor voltage from the signal as a basic first step.
Im having exactly this problem on an LS swap. The harness looks okand there are no splices. Can that still get loose inside the plug? I woulve liked to see how to check the reluctor. Although, it does seem wiring relater. It ctu out on my at idel when i went around and lifted up anout 1" on the wire bundle. Any insite would be appreciated.
It’s way easier to just check the signal at the PCM which is normally how I do it. I only removed the starter to show the connector for the video and of course I had to go there anyway for the repair but I really recommend checking the voltage from the PCM terminal.
@SchrodingersBox i dont know how to do that. I imagine that requires unpinning? That would be far more involved that removing a starter in my opinion. Especially since they stuck the pcm way up under the dash and bolted it in.
I have a 2004 dakota 3.7 engine with the same problem, the engine was removed for oil pan replacement exhaust leaks on the heads,the engine ran fine before removed after the engine was installed back in it make about 10 revolution before it fire the po355 came on it run fine at a idle but it won't pass over 2200 hundred rpm replacement or cps was done and the problem still there.
Having a similar issue with a 2014 Cruze 1.4T. Differnt symptoms, runs rough at ideal and cold, run smooth when warmed up and at moderate and high RPM. No RPM reading at all on the Tach.
Hey I’ve done these tests on my cps there is a delay on the signal wire also, I’ve exposed the wire further away from the plug and still a delay there also. What would you recommend me doing next?
Hi I know the video is old but im buying a 07 escalade the owner mentioned that on the highway the car after 3-2 miles shuts off and he said that wait 5 minutes and then start it back he claims that the bcm needs to be replaced but i think it is the cam shaft sensor what do you think the issue is? I will really appreciate the answers😆
I know this video is a year old but I am having the same issue on my LS swap. At first it was a p0335, I watched this video, did the jumper wire across the original CKPS connector and found a bad pin on the signal wire just like you did. I replaced it, and now I get a p0336. I know the ckps is good as I checked resistance across the pins (and it's a new sensor) and it checks out good. I'm half tempted to cut the signal wire and bypass the entire harness and bring it straight to the proper pin on the PCM. What do you think? Anything I might have missed?
I have done that many time. just do a crank sensor bypass and if that doesn’t initiate a response then verify if ground, signal or reference is missing and run that straight to the PCM. I’ve done that quite a bit.
@@SchrodingersBox Hey there, just checking back in. I did extensive testing today. I did the bypass and it checks out good. It initiates the fuel pump to pump every time. I took it a step further and took the sensor out, connected it to the harness, then tapped it with a wrench and it responded by kicking on the fuel pump every time. I went even further by installing the sensor back in to the block, and then spinning the crank over by hand (verifying spacing) and the fuel pump kicked on every single time. I then went even deeper, and tested for voltage on my high reference (11.0 volts), saw that that was good so I thought, ok maybe there's a break in the signal wire somewhere so then maybe I'm not getting the full voltage, I poked it at the ECM, turned on the key (did the bypass again to make sure voltage was getting there) and saw that there was a full 11 volts there. Here's where things get a little interesting...The low reference wire, all though I don't believe there are any breaks in the system as I have good continuity, I don't see a low reference. No ground, no 5 volts, nothing...So my question is, why would the fuel pump kick on, yet when I try to crank the vehicle, I get a p0336? I'm at such a loss on this one.
The low reference is the ground. The way you describe it sounds like it’s working. Only thing left is to check cam and crank correlation. The sensor and wiring seem to be working based on what you say.
@@SchrodingersBox Please help me! I have a 2007 chevy cobalt ss. I’ve had the crankshaft sensor replaced 5 times now, the connector or pigtail is what the guy told me, replaced twice. Originally it was not starting after I put gas in and stalling at stops. The sensor fixed it not starting. But now it is still dropping and staying at zero rpm’s and stalling at stops again. The mechanic is now telling me he either has to spend 2-3 hours going through wiring(which he still hasn’t told me which wiring 🤷♀️) or he can try to replace the ecm. I have already paid twice for the sensor to be replaced and for the connector to be replaced. I asked him if he had to put his money on it which would he go for first and he said it’s about 50/50. I cannot afford $300 plus just to guess and it end up not working. Here are the codes it’s throwing. P0326, P0336, PO446, P1174, B1325 and this may have nothing to do with it but just in case B3950. Please if anyone might be able to point me in the right direction I would really appreciate it!
I would check the sensor signal input at the pCM and if it’s there AND there is no PCM signal output, you know the PCM must be bad because it is receiving signal but not processing an output.
When probing the lt. green wire at the crank sensor i get continuity to ground. The lt green wire in c1 pin 2 also showing to be ground when probing. I see it supposed to be 12v Reference. I'm baffled. Help Appreciated
hi there I had a question my buddies truck throws the same code but when its warm out he'd be driving and then out of nowhere it'd just die and wouldn't start again until cool. would this be caused by the same aspect
Hwy i have 3 kids and im in need of direction or help. 2008 clk350 80k miles. I replaced mine die to code p0336 i recieved. I bought the replacement from orielys and after replacing it, it turns but wont start just like before i checked it with my obd. Does it need to be calibrated or something with the ecu or something ? Please help me.
Any ideas why my 11 mustang gt will not successfully relearn the crankshaft position? Ive returned my idle, and other perimeters to stock and attempted the process numerous times. I get the error on my sct saying maximum attempts reached, restart procedure. Is this an inducation of a bad sensor?
I have a 2010 Chevy Malibu and I just replaced the cam and crack sensor and I forgot to relearn it and now it’s no starting when I brought a scanner it said oil and oil filter
The relearn has nothing to do with timing. It is strictly for the misfire detection calibration. If you have a no start then something is aligned or not connected.
My son car have the same problem, I not mechanic but I have an electronics background. I have oscilloscopes and multimeters. Mechanic change the Crankshaft sensor 3 times, is imposible to fail 3 times. Do you know where I can find this connector or let me know the terminals part number? Any help will be appreciate Thanks in Advance.
No there isn’t. but it also isn’t critical- it has nothing to do with operation of engine. it’s just for learning misfire detection which again is only useful for a scantool.
I had the 335 code, changed the sensor with an oe sensor, still having the same issues, I have frayed wires at the connector, could this have been the issue ? The old sensor was fouled out with oil from the block too
I’ll be checking tomorrow as I don’t have my voltmeter. Probably just going to replace all 3 wires as close to the connector as possible so I won’t need to repin it
The repair on the trans cooler line (worm drive clamps and hose at 18:50) is guaranteed to rub a hole in the return trans cooler line right next to it. That poor 4l80e is going to burn right up when it does. Nice diag and repair on the crank sensor harness. Thanks for the tip on the "crimp supply" kit. Matt, do you know if autoenginuity has to reverse engineer things like a GM CKP relearn, or if they just pay GM for the information?
nice observation on the trans cooler- never even noticed it because I was fixated on filming the sensor. I usually do keep an eye out for stuff like that!! no idea on the Autoenginuity question. I am not sure if each manufacturer is responsible for the communication abilities or if there is some type of “engine” that is used on all scantools.
Hey I changed my my crankshaft position sensor In my 2016 camaro 2ss and I used my topdon 600 s scan tool..I cleared all default codes and now my dang car cranks but no start.. I am so stressed out..I have changed my spark plugs and coil packs and wires...I am getting spark and air and fuel...and my car will still not start...car you please help me out...I am new to your channel...thanks for the info and direction..I have learned alot from you and have been very pleased by your teachings...so please help me out on this problem..its killing me big time not driving my camaro..and I love how black bird sounds... Thank you Cade Knight
Any thoughts on why i get p0322 and p15A100 pls? I've trawled TH-cam and Google and my best guess is crankshaft position sensor but I'm only just starting out trying to fix my own issues as i can't afford garage anymore. Pls help
I'm back again! I forgot to mention the problem which is when up to temp and driving, the revs drop for a split second intermittently and sometimes when coming to a stop but still moving slowly, they cut out and the power steering goes off but the latter of the 2 seems to be the stop start function kicking in, which I find strange as I've not come to a stop completely and I'm still in gear. Usually when I've slowed right down and I'm turning a corner. Which is scary lol
@SchrodingersBox sorry didn't see you'd replied. I don't know much but what data would I need? I have an obd eleven scan tool so if u point me in the right direction I'll do my best to provide it. I've just changed the sensor and the car drives without cutting out but now it cranks for 5 seconds before it starts and the idle seems slightly rough.
I have an 04 buick rendezvous fuel pump has no power. The relay has power at 87 pin but no power on 30 is that correct. No codes on obd2fuse good fuel pump replace my mistake problem wasn't fuel pump any help much appreciated
Buick rendezvous running now never trust a but connector fuel pump connector was broken loose on ground had to take fuel tank down. Used the new style solder connector awesome
I have a 2007 Chevy equinox and they made this vehicle from 05 to 09 I think. I’ve change the crank sensor and had problems cause wouldn’t start ruff idle and cut off. The point I’m getting at when you change the crank sensor replace it with the exact part manufacturer that came out from the vehicle not all manufacturer wire there crank sensor the same.
I just had the timing belt changed on my 05 Xterra, noticed a pretty significant change in the power band, went from making max power at 2-3k rpm to only picking up somewhere after 4k rpm. Cant find a relearn procedure for Nissan though, only thing that keeps popping up is idle air relearn procedure
Sounds more to me like you may have missed a tooth-- the idle relearn wont restore power like that- there should be no difference in engine performance without the relearn.
@@SchrodingersBox many thanks. I just took it for another test drive and there's an audible click at right around 4k in almost any gear...camt figure out if its pinging, or maybe the timing chain snapping as its correcting?
Good video Matt. Check out an Astro 9477 ratcheting crimp tool kit with interchangeable dies. It has dies specifically designed to crimp those open faced terminals as well as the common insulated closed barrel style that is so ubiquitous. It makes a NASA grade crimp every time. I like mine because it crimps both tangs at the same time and there is no guess work about how far to place the terminal in the dies. FYI
thanks man, good to see you and yeah good advice. I very seldom have to repin a connector but yeah when I do it’s a real pain using basic tools for the crimping.
Just discovered your page. Seems like another “ready, aim, fire” brother living in a “fire ready aim” world. Love your thought process, analysis and approach. I laugh because all the dirty fingernail types have already changed 10 parts and decided that the engine is “just shot due to age”. Don’t waste your time trying to convince the “fire ready aim” types to slow down……just know that us 2%ers get your channel completely. I need to go back and see what your source materials are around scan tools, online manuals and such……..
I wish i could find someone like you in my neighborhood. Maybe ill take a shot at asking you this to see if you respond. I have an 09 Camry with a p0335 code, we arent mechanics so we just had someone replace the CSP sensor and the car is lighting up but no crank at all. My car has been sitting for 3 months and i would love any advice where to start or try next. Hope you read this!
The first step is getting your reference, signal and ground voltages. Without that there is nothing I can suggest. We have to see where the issue is. Who ever replaced your sensor should have done that before replacing it. Did they collect that data?
Hey there sir, your videos are so helpful! I’m subscribing! Just curious what would make this loose connection issue worst once it’s warmed up, what makes it temperature dependent ? My 05 5.3 is doing the same thing, and actually it gets worse when I hit bumps , but it gets so bad when the motor is hot, when cold it dosent do it
It’s because nearly all matter expands when heated and contracts when cooled. This will either tighten or loosen a bad connection. In the case of dissimilar materials, the rates of expansion can be different which also can cause contact surface to vary with temperature.
That would be an inductive sensor that generates AC voltage with reluctor movement. Much much easier that the Hall effect - just check the bias voltage.
@@SchrodingersBox the sensor is new, both sensors are new. Yes, I bought 2. I want to know about the two wires. Where do they go? The computer? Is one wire a ground? I have a 2006
@@SchrodingersBox I already know the cpk is good, I have 2 new ones. I need to check the integrity of the two wires that go to the sensor. I need to know what voltage is being sent to the sensor on start up and/or if what these wires do. Is one grounded to the ecu? Or do both just go to the ecu. I need to know the pins in the ecu connector. Also is there a relay involved in this circuit? I have a 2006 dodge sprinter
Yes that’s what I am saying. I don’t understand why the sensor is replaced- check the bias voltage and then look for AC activity at the PCM. Simple as that!!
I have a dumb question, is it possible for a bad wheel bearing sensor to somehow mess with a crank shaft sensor, to cause a no start? Its a 2001 pontiac grand am 2.4,
it’s not a stupid question as often there are shared grounds on multiple systems that you otherwise would not think would intersect- but I don’t see that as a possibility in this scenario. ABS is a whole separate thing that won’t intersect with ignition signals.
I have a really stupid question. I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 with the P0336 circuit/range performance. Very similar to the issues with this particular vehicle. It seemed like the solution to the problem for this vehicle was fixing the terminals. Am I understanding that right!? Please help. I have been experiencing this issues for months now and really need help. Please message me or help in any way.
@@SchrodingersBox I’m not sure. Im speaking from a dealership standpoint and multiple. But it’s literally exactly like this vehicle you were showing in the video. It’s a P0336 crankshaft position sensor A circuit/performance. GMC suggested replacing 6 terminals on ckp circuits. Which is what it look like you did in your video. If I’m correct I think?
I can’t say without seeing data from the sensor. many things can cause these exact same symptoms. there is no evidence you have yet showing you have sensor output.
I have a car 2008 chevy express 4.8 crank no start p0335 I changed the crankshaft sensor now still crank no start but the code changed to p0016 what cause the code to change ?
@Schrodingers Box at beginning the old sensor was broken inside I started with visual inspiration and sure enough it was broken inside the whole tip was eating away . That's why I jumped to change it .
yes I do it by just looking at the cam signal voltages and overlay with crank signal voltages. you may find it easier to start by checking the duty cycle on the timing solenoids.
Excellent presentation, Matt. THANK YOU. Decades ago on my very first (part time) job as a teenager my boss used to tell me, “Son, what you don’t do with your brain you have to do with your back.” On automotive, what you don’t do with your brain you have to do with a wrench. Thanks again for showing the way on using the brain on auto diag and repair.
Thanks for sharing! That is great, great advice.
Actually most mechanics I have known have had bad backs too. turning a wrench is often bad on your back so the less you do it and the more you can do on a computer or using a dry erase board, the longer the career you will have!
I will have to use your old boss’s advice in my next video. I love that.
@@SchrodingersBox Quote originator's name is Stillman Terry, and I heard that quote from him more than once from 1975-1977 when I worked for him in the Village Butcher shop in Annandale, VA. He was a meat cutter by trade, and could cut up a steer and then put it back together and it would walk away ( ;-) ). He's a retired Green Beret. I got a lot of valuable lifelong wisdom thanks to him. :-)
Try not to get annoyed by comments there are way to many people who are willing to share their less than helpful comments, love your videos it’s a pleasure to watch someone who skillfully methodically does their job and shares their wisdom of how to work smart.
Thank you for your precious explainations. With P0336, my Citroën C4 1,6 16V sounded like a lawn mower. When I stopped engine during about twenty seconds before restart, I could accelerate normally once again. I've replaced the spark plugs this afternoon. For the moment, I no longer have P0336 and no longer roug stalling. 9:00
The background story, the case study and mapping procedure, this is keys to success. I appreciate this kind of thought, this kind of logical and technical approach to a scenario. Im currently dealing with a crank no start issue which had a camshaft sensor signal error on the scan tool and we've already detected shoddy wiring. We havent gone through the entire harness but at the connector itself was some damaged wiring and bad soldering and connections made. Replaced the sensor but still no start. So ill test the sensor wiring once the mechanic arrives tomorrow or before he gets here and we'll see how this gets us. Thanks,. Happy to have invested 31 minutes of my life in this informative video. Much appreciated from Cape Town, South Africa.
Hope you found the short.... or sensor
Definitely helped me along the way of electrical problems! Definitely puts a lot of work into making time to give others a on point tutorial! A lot of respect! Thank you.
Glad it helped!
Like how you used a process . Thinking about the facts , diagnosing the root cause , planning an efficient course of action, and verifying the fix. Also like the way you allowed your lady to have a role ! You looked at the camera and simply resumed coaching us after she fixed your hair nice . 👍🏼
All credit to Vicki here - it's amazing what a great stylist can do to ensure that we aren't subjected to repairs by Foghorn Leghorn in a baseball cap. I will admit that those tricky shots underneath the vehicle were pretty impressive too. Great tutorial. 🐓
Hahahaha foghorn leghorn lol!!!! Now I do Declare!!!
@@SchrodingersBox I couldn't write - I say I couldn't write the message for laughing! 😅
🤣 I'm not responsible for this look! I need to get to him before he steps out into the garage.
Foghorn Leghorn... hahaha! Yes, too funny!
Careful boys, your showing your age again! Kids these days don't see those violent cartoons! Mine are on VHS.
@@labradormcgraw you wouldn't happen to know where the other end of the harness is? 05 Nissan Altima 3.5
This channel is absolutely awesome I love how you break down the diagnostics.Ive been having a similar issue with my wife's 2008 Chevy suburban the car is hard to crank than the traction control deactivates no signal to the tack at all car will drive with a p 305 code but hard shifts into second gear pings and runs like crap. I reset the engine code and the car runs solid for a few days and all of a sudden just decides it wants to act up.I look at the live data on the scanner and it doesn't even have a hiccup while driving. The other issues is a slow crank like it's got a dragging starter or bad ground things giving me one hell of a headache but after watching this I know I need to look at these wires and see what the hecks going on.
I really enjoy the video to see someone break down every procedure with so much precision. Love these videos from this channel.
Glad to hear! Thanks!!
Scotty is good for entertainment and basic information. Matt is a scientist/mechanic who's great for determining the truth. I can actually hear the wiring/short in my 08' Subaru, AFTER the "reputable" local shop replaced the ecu , which didn't solve the problem, and, after I got a "BlueDriver" obd2 scan tool which immediately caught a crankshaft position sensor code. "Tickling" my Subaru ( visual inspection and listening ) has me moving scientifically closer to the Truth.
WTF
You are the best i have a 97 gmc 4.3 v6 vortex having the same issue with the crank position sensor . you have explained and i gotta say im hands on although u did a wonderful presentation and covered everything that needed to be shown in how to diagnose the p codes thank you for doing wat u do .
absolutely love your tuition and in depth methods. ive gotta admit i 'was once' a part changer but really enjoying the understanding how it works and live readings before judgment . love this channel !
Thats great to hear!! You're very welcome!
About time!.
You were the only magician on tv without a beautiful assistant.
Glad that's sorted.
Another great video.
What do you mean? She adjusted his hat.
She did help last week with the fuel trim video.
That counts as a regular appearance.
I told you that The greatest thing come free, it takes a great human being to share this kind of info in detail. You reminded me of the time I was back at school! This will relief 😮💨 a lot of head aches! Thanks 🙏🏿! You are a great man!
diagnostic king of youtube 👑
im racking of my brain trying to figure out what this 6.0L gm motor is doing. getting no codes but reduced power, chugging and chocking, stalling, not starting up immediately...still no check engine light, ive checked the obvious...ignition...air intake, to catalytic convertors...i dont know what to do next
when you say you checked ignition, cats and air intake what data did you get and how did you get it?
Great job and very helpful. And yall are right about dealers and shops over charging people. Keep up the great work
Your pretty straight forward; i can say cause these real life scenarios can be a pain but i like the one with the cks your initionally saying is if you have a good referance, by replacing the cks is a sure fix if the wires are not broken
If you have a good reference AND ground AND signal integrity then and only then is it guaranteed replacing the CKPS will fix it if there is no CKPS output.
Good stuff! I could listen to you all day and everyday and not get tired of it.
Wow, thank you! I don’t think too many people would agree with that though hahahaha. but it is a great compliment.
changed CSPS, still Same 335,336 with 07 6.7 Ram, then exhaust filter 80%, retired just putt about small town, drove on freeway(UGH) 50 miles Exhaust msg cleared. still 335,336. Thanks will try this now...
I would also check your cam and crank sensor correlations as well.
I've been having an issue with my 2015 fiat 500. Initially i was getting P0336 and i went to the fiat dealership to get it replaced. After getting my car back it barely started. Went straight to autozone and was getting P0336 still along with another code stating that the sensor needed a relearn. Brought it back to the dealership for them to relearn the sensor. Went home and realized that the 3 page report they gave me only showed them updating the ECU to a new version, nothing was mentioned in the report of an actual relearn. Getting the same codes. Not sure what to do at this point.
Start with the extreme basics: What are your signal voltages showing? What’s your reference voltage?
By the way a relearn has nothing to do with timing or anything. A relearn is to allow the sensor to calibrate for cylinder misfire identification. Not doing a relearn has no effect on performance- it will just affect accuracy of the misfire detection.
Have you noticed the speedometer move when u revved the engine after the repair
Ok, this is just a niggly bit not even about the car. One of the things you will see other TH-cam automotive repair channels do is when they are introducing a car to the audience they will typically show at least a portion of the vehicle. I know, it's just a sort of comfort thing but it helps. Do what you want, I will keep watching your stuff whether you like it or not.😁. You already know I like them all.
I did initially show the truck but I edited it out because it was so big it couldn’t be shown in a single frame of view so I figured there was no point.
@@SchrodingersBox Fair enough. Respect.
These will drive you crazy because the cam and crank are supplied by the same 12v in the pcm. I remember an 05 doesn't show they are shared but what happens is an oil leak at the top of the engine breaks the wires down and shorts out the 12v on the connector to the cam. Many times it only shows a crank sensor code but will be a no start. If that 12v is pulled down to about 8v it will make it run like poo or set 300 code
That's my problem, throwing 335 for cpk and everything checks good down there so heading to the cam sensor
@@stubaker1737was that the problem?
That's my problem too! I have a 07 nnbs installed new motor new crank and cam sensor and I have a p0335 code
Hi probably too late to get a response on this, but I’ve got this issue, noticed oil out of the camshaft / crankshaft connector into the DME, and still got intermittent running (stalls when hot) after replacing crank and both cam sensors. Do you have more detail on this issue? I can’t work out how the oil is getting into the wires?
@@theoeagle9834 a lot of times the oil comes through the pins on the sensor. The connector really should be replaced with a pigtail.
Wow. A great person and excellent videos. The video that I just watched might be the best TH-cam help video that I have ever seen. He goes into detail and I found that so helpful and complete. GREAT. Thanks for making this video !!!
Glad it was helpful!
Your videos are excellent and informative. Your approach to problem solving and the way you fix things is excellent
You could also test each connector pin with the car shut off using an ohm meter, by back probing a pin with one lead and probing the other end with the other lead and then wiggling it. If it deviates even the smallest amount from zero, you have a bad connection. Doing it this way is also safer as long as you probe each pin to ground first to make sure there isn't any live power. Unlikely that there is, but better to be safe than sorry.
You are a great teacher I just learned a lot and I know I'll be learning more from you
thank you!!
my man living in 2020+ with mouse trails turned on... respect sire.
Hahahahaha!!!!! It helps me see the arrows in bright light but great observation lol
I had the same p0335 code on a 2007 G6 GT 3.9L .. I changed the knock sensor out with one from O’Reillys and the code still came back. I double checked the wiring with a multimeter from the connector up to the top of the harness and both the wires were good so I knew that it wasn’t the connector or the wiring, so I bought a AC Delco knock sensor, and put that in and everything is good, no more check engine light!
Yup some third party or after market crank and knock sensors won’t work in certain brands of especially GM and Nissans are notoriously hateful of aftermarket sensors a lot of aftermarket cam and crankshaft sensors will not work on Nissans Nissan tech told me they don’t put out the proper voltage reference
Here I was getting excited to see the piercing probes come out to play and all we needed was the wiggle test. That saved precious moments and gives more Sunday afternoon beer drinking time. haha
yeah it’s funny you say that- I was going to use the pierce probes but the CKPS wiring goes right into another harness that is still behind the starter so you still can’t access even with probes without removing the starter. no way around it, starter has to come out.
My old shop teacher in high school used to tell us about the wiggle test. Used it many times to success
@@SchrodingersBox good old fashion GM engineering.🤷♂️ I've known to poke those wires at or near the PCM to take a look see. The good point Matt is the truck is fixed and somebody owes you a few drinks. 😉
I just changed my CPS 2014 Hyundai accent GLS 1.6 liter before I replaced it it kept stalling. Now it’s jerky jerky runs like crap. Do I need to have it relearned to get it to run good
You're a pure genius bud love the videos
A scientist with a great analytical diagnosis
Matt,
I am having the same issue with my 2006 3500 15pax van. Runs decent when cold, VERY intermittent rough run/complete stall when warm. Currently has the P0335 code.
Your thorough approach and detailed explanation is FANTASTIC! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us! I will let you know what I find out tomorrow when troubleshooting, but using your scientific method, I am guessing a wiring short as well. Cheers from a 5280 native!
Well I appreciate that! i hope it makes up for the fact I am not a native here hahaha- Sorry for intruding lol.
Dear Matt, i have the same problem with my yukon 2008 model i change three sensor still same when cold start car is perfect after got some heat the check engine light flashing and code p0335 . Can you please tell me how you solve the problem
Start with FASTEC and see if it’s fuel air spark or timing.
@@SchrodingersBoxi have a 2004 chevy silverado 4.8 and it died on me coming home from work. I changed the crankshaft sensor and now it starts up but onece it reaches temperature it shuts off and don’t start anymore. I don’t have no codes anymore
Why does it shut off. What is it losing? Spark or fuel?
Thanx 4 the video! My 100th anniversary harley truck has this same problem! Replaced sensor twice now! What a pain! I am convinced it’s in the wiring! Can unplug & replug it in & it’ll start! Sometimes! Intermittent problem! I’m thinking the factory original was not faulty afterall!
Hey Matt, I have a diagnostic question. I'm working on a vehicle nearly identical to the one in this video. It is a cranking no start scenario with no pule signal to the injectors and no spark. I have a positive reference at the cps plug, and the fuel pump kicks on when I do the crank bypass shown in this video. What I don't have at the plug is a constant ground. Would you lean towards crankshaft position sensor with this information, or chase the lack of ground?
Funny you mention this. I just ran into this exact thing. most likely the ground is broken- it’s located on driver’s side of engine under manifold.
@@SchrodingersBox I was unable to find any broken wires, and it looks like that ground goes into the fuse box. Would this ground be ecu controlled? Could I short that wire to ground to close the loop without damaging anything electrically?
After some more wire wiggling, the ground reference fell out of the plug going to the crankshaft position sensor. I replaced the plug and the vehicle fired right up. Thank you so much for your help with this! In hindsight, I should have pierced the wire further up, but I hate exposing wires to the elements. Thanks again!
I have this and did the same thing this guy did. (Replace ckp sensor) No shop will help me further and they say they don’t do those codes and I’m in a small town. Car runs rough and bucks and sputters and rpm needle drops at warm up temp.
Crazy how you make it seem so simple yet two years of my life have been hell replacing plugs ,wires, coil pack ,batteries and wires. Even removed the catalytic converter. Can’t tell you what a pain this code is p0036
Well start with the extreme basics. What data did you have that indicated the sensor was bad. You checked ground, signal and reference right?
Many after market crankshaft and cam sensors don't work correctly. If your going to replace, get the oem part.
I like how you had to fix someone else mistakes.. for example they could have done it correctly but you did it correctly. Cuddos to you.
Thanks man, I appreciate that. actually about 80% of the time I am fixing someone else’s mistakes. I almost get the car after several others tried to fix it.
You know those who watch SCOTTY KILMER are really loking for Comedy relief he has no logic about what he do'es on Cars thank you Matt for the great Videos.
I0 I want to see the the camshaft sensor
0 could you show me the problem shooting the camels the camshaft sensor
The only tool used in this video is schrodinger himself
What a pathetic instructor
Obviously it makes you feel like a big man calling down people looking for help
You're a real piece of work
I replaced my crankshaft position sensor and still got the p0335 code so that means the wiring is probably not connected or no signal going to my PCM
correct.
I disconnected mine and replaced the O ring and reconnected and now I have issues, lots of oil in my connection so I’m thinking I have the same problem
Hey, just have the po336 code only, for my undesirable po335 never came on. Anyhow, i done my checks, my ground is good and reference is good, but when i do the ckp bypass, i don’t hear the fuel pump. What is your thoughts on this? (Learning as i go with wiring) (P.S it’s a gen v, different color wiring but its the same set up)
Seems clear you have no signal to the PCM. Check signal wire continuity.
Will this problem also trip reduced power mode? My Yukon 6.0L is experiencing P0336 intermittent and after warm up. Then a very noticeable clunking sound, runs extremely rough and goes into reduced power mode. I then turn it off, restart and I’m good to go for a day or so
No- a cam or crank sensor issue will not affect power. it will affect engine running at all
Very good. What I am trying to figure out is how to identify a crank sensor problem in a Holley Terminator X. The car has an intermitent stall or bog at WOT only. Off the line of while cruising.
What is your signal voltage? That’s the very first step.
As usual another great detailed video,, thanks Matt
This week I fixed my friend's 2000 Volvo V70 II which had a similar issue and similar cause. He just bought it and the previous owner had the cam and crankshaft sensor replaced for about 250€ and it didn't fix the problem.
My scan tool can't read Volvo DTCs, but a shop confirmed there were still cam and crank sensor codes and a VVT solenoid code.
I started the hard way and removed the ECM to check the wiring and it all turned out good. Later I bought some thin needles to probe the signals of the sensors with my oscilloscope (would've been lot easier to start with that lol). The crank sensor had a good signal but the cam sensor had a very untidy signal intermittently (it's supposed to square from 0-5V and then was very glitchy).
First I suspected my needle but it had good contact. Then I disassembled the connector ans bent the spring taps back into shape to give it more preload. The signal was clean now and the engine ran fine without misfires and didn't have a hard start anymore.
tl;dr: the scientific approach once again could have saved a lot of money if the previous shop had diagnosed the issue before changing parts 😀
Oh and regarding 20:40 I had the same issue with those shrink tubes with solder inside as well. They got brittle after just two years and the soldering inside was very poor to begin with. I really can't recommend using them.
They were used on the temperature sensor of the same Volvo (even though the connection didn't fail (yet)).
Im having this issue on my 07 yukon everything is good on cold start, after warm up i shut it off & it sounds like a dead battery when cranking takes long to start & when it does the rpm doesn't work rhe ac doesn't work the cooling fans work weak causing antifreeze to bubble up stabilitrac traction control light comes on throws a p0336 then throws a p0335. Could the wiring cause this as the one you worked on or what should i check? Thanks
Yes wiring could cause that. what is your signal voltage from the sensor showing?
@SchrodingersBox thanks for the quick response, im going to try to work on it tomorrow if i have time & will definitely get back to you. Thanks so much
I changed my cps and fuel pump on Chevrolet Express, and as soon as it warmed up it dies, no codes. After watching this video I went and took out my cps pigtail and saw the wires are exposed and coved in oil. Went to junk yard bought new pigtail for 3$, wired it up and it runs now.
I have possibly an issue with crank or cam sensor. My 2006 Silverado stalls after idling for approx 10-13 min. Every time. I’ve driven it and runs fine but still cuts off as if someone turned the ignition. No bucking no loss of power or anything out of the ordinary. It’s as if it cuts off once it’s reached operating temp. I replaced crank sensor still same issue. Was thinking to replace cam sensor as well see if it fixes but not sure if I should start with doing a relearn on crank sensor?
A relearn is strictly for the misfire counting calibration. It had nothing to do with its normal function at all.
Instead of doing a relearn, just check the signal voltage instead and see if it’s faulty.
@@SchrodingersBox ok will do that thank you!
Damn wish you lived next door I have never seen anyone with your knowledge explaining code issues like this , Don't worry about your hair buddy You Rock ! Thanks !
What a nice compliment.
Could you do a video on “repinning” automotive connectors?
Most knowledgeable video yet thanks bud
CPS behind the starter, go to the Mitsubishi 4 cyl. Line, have to remove the belt drive, pulleys, timing covers, and timing belt.
I have a question for you.
There seems tto be alot of issues with BCM system,with water leaking into Hummers and it creating a mess of electrical issues.
Not only that these GM cars and truck from the early 2000's have electric issues.
I have ad H3 Hummer, that has haall kind of electrical issues because of water coming in from the leaky sunroof,and draining down the a pillar and getting to the BCM.
Now the sunroof has been siliconed and so no water is coming in.
Now the question,I replaced the BCM with a preprogrammed unit,and went through the 30 min passlock system relearn and the car wouldn't start.
Did it several times and still nothing.
Notice that the crank sensor code along wiht air pump code is on,so the car isnt gonna start with the key.
But if I tried using just the remote start and did the 10 min reset for 30 minutes and the car starts up,but will not start with key.
In the beginning there were 2 codes on the crank sensor and the air pump,both parts were replaced and the codes never shut off,
I think the car is not starting from the key because the crank sensor code is still on,check the fuses and wires for breakage,every problem sight of a ground missing,nothing!
This car/truck has a self lubricating chassis system working great 😂 , nice job Matt 👌
lol yeah it even lubricated my garage floor lol.
@@SchrodingersBox 😂😂😂😂
Gogatz.
Giggaty
I recently replaced my distributor on my 5.7 vortec Silverado.
Number one cylinder top dead center on compression stroke. Like it should be.
Distributor is at the number one point position like it should be.
It starts fine runs pretty good and not throwing any codes
But my timing advance is reading Negative 24 at idle and gets more negative in higher rpms.
Ive re installed the distributor numerous times and even tried a different ecm. And its always roughly the same negative advance. Can you tell me what it might be??
i would check the cam and crank correlation to determine mechanical timing.
@@SchrodingersBox yeah i was kind of think that but I wanted to get a second opinion.
I used a cap with a hole in it to check spark. And its going straight to the diode. So ita not the distributor i dont think
And as i mentioned it starts and runs good
Didn't make sense hownit could run so good and the timing advance be soo off
So i was thinking maybe it needed a crank relearn lol. But i guess I'll find out when i get it on a cmp reader
it will absolutely not be a relearn problem. the relearn is to set a baseline for CKPS misfire detection.
@@SchrodingersBox i believe my base for misfire detection is anything over +15 or -15
It runs fine at its current-22.4 advance. But when i rotate the distributor it throws a misfire code at around -12 ish and wont hardly run
I was just trying to figure out what exactly it was. I was told it could be a tooth out. I may need to buy a scan tool to correct the issue
Move a wrench on what😂😂😂 man u remind me of my oldest brother.such a smartass .love u man. U help me alot with your videos. Thank you....
Hahahaha I consider that an honor!!!!
My sister had a 03 Nissan Pathfinder with p0335 that had the exact symptoms he described before swapping the crankshaft position sensor. I could never get confirmation it was the sensor and it only threw the code one out of maybe every 10 times it refused to start so I suspected it was just a referenced code.
The only thing I could find wrong for sure is the fuel pump was out of spec, only giving about half of it's rated fuel pressure.
Not fully understanding the mechanisms but trusting in the data I had, I decided to replace the fuel pump. Completely resolved the issue.
I suspect what was happening was the vehicle had no way of knowing it had died due to being starved of fuel, so it threw a crankshaft position sensor when it saw the crank was no longer spinning. What the PCM didn't know is that was legitimate, the crankshaft _really wasn't_ turning anymore due to a sudden loss of fuel.
I further suspect the fuel injectors have a very specific pressure that they will no longer open at all (thinking like a "burst pressure"), causing the low fuel pressure issue to go from "running fine" to "not running at all".
Moral of the story is if you see p0335 or other similar codes, don't just go replacing the crankshaft position sensor.
actually I totally forgot to mention - a fuel problem or misfire can cause a P0336 but it won’t cause a P0335.
Great job. Watched whole video. Because I had new connector replaced. They are saying it's my Reluctor and Crankshaft. Does the engine has to be pulled for that?
Yes it would.
Where would you have started with code P0336 ? I let my suburban 5.3 sit for about a month or more starting it occasionally. I left the hood cracked the past two weeks because I just added a leveling kit.
When I went to turn it back on it was dead and has probably been dead for at least two weeks. Could this cause the computer to lose memory to the crankshaft sensor? I plan on researching more and your video certainly is a great start to diagnosing my issue. I think the thing I am going to hate the most about this is having to take off the starter. That's a pretty crappy task. My suburban is an 08' z71 I wonder if they have changed the location of these sensors since. I doubt it though.
Let me know how you would have done this alternatively with code P0336 instead of P0335.
on a P0336 I would probably just start with a Crank Sensor bypass and verify consistency of my own Input to determine electrical or mechanical right off the bat.
@@SchrodingersBox I will try that. The engine light/code went away yesterday. My suburban has over 300k miles and needs to be inspected thoroughly.
Please a answer a question for me: my 2007 Toyota Rav4 4cyl 2.4 L engine, has a no start problem only when engine is hot. But i get no trouble codes what so ever Should I change the Crankshaft position Sensor regardless. Other than that this Rav4 runs great all of the time.
what is your data from the crankshaft position sensor indicating that is the issue?
Hi! I have a 2006 Chrysler Town and Country. I replaced the crankshaft sensor, no codes were popping up related to the sensor but I was just going down the line of parts for another situation...I am now in the position of the video, where the car is running worse and I now have codes 0339 and 0335. Is it the relearn process that is doing this? Blessings!
The relearn has nothing to do with sensor performance. It’s strictly for misfire calibration. Start with the basics and look at your sensor voltage from the signal as a basic first step.
Im having exactly this problem on an LS swap. The harness looks okand there are no splices. Can that still get loose inside the plug? I woulve liked to see how to check the reluctor.
Although, it does seem wiring relater. It ctu out on my at idel when i went around and lifted up anout 1" on the wire bundle. Any insite would be appreciated.
It’s way easier to just check the signal at the PCM which is normally how I do it. I only removed the starter to show the connector for the video and of course I had to go there anyway for the repair but I really recommend checking the voltage from the PCM terminal.
@SchrodingersBox i dont know how to do that. I imagine that requires unpinning? That would be far more involved that removing a starter in my opinion. Especially since they stuck the pcm way up under the dash and bolted it in.
CKP relearns are pretty much just for more accurate misfire counters....
I have a 2004 dakota 3.7 engine with the same problem, the engine was removed for oil pan replacement exhaust leaks on the heads,the engine ran fine before removed after the engine was installed back in it make about 10 revolution before it fire the po355 came on it run fine at a idle but it won't pass over 2200 hundred rpm replacement or cps was done and the problem still there.
Having a similar issue with a 2014 Cruze 1.4T. Differnt symptoms, runs rough at ideal and cold, run smooth when warmed up and at moderate and high RPM. No RPM reading at all on the Tach.
It could.
Hey I’ve done these tests on my cps there is a delay on the signal wire also, I’ve exposed the wire further away from the plug and still a delay there also. What would you recommend me doing next?
not sure what you mean by delay in signal wire
Hi I know the video is old but im buying a 07 escalade the owner mentioned that on the highway the car after 3-2 miles shuts off and he said that wait 5 minutes and then start it back he claims that the bcm needs to be replaced but i think it is the cam shaft sensor what do you think the issue is? I will really appreciate the answers😆
Could be cam or crank sensor, fuel pump, loose wiring, even a bad ignition switch. No way to tell- you have to see what fails when it stalls.
Who gives atoss about scottys fans anyway... I love your vids and I learn a heck of a lot from them
I know this video is a year old but I am having the same issue on my LS swap. At first it was a p0335, I watched this video, did the jumper wire across the original CKPS connector and found a bad pin on the signal wire just like you did. I replaced it, and now I get a p0336. I know the ckps is good as I checked resistance across the pins (and it's a new sensor) and it checks out good. I'm half tempted to cut the signal wire and bypass the entire harness and bring it straight to the proper pin on the PCM. What do you think? Anything I might have missed?
I have done that many time. just do a crank sensor bypass and if that doesn’t initiate a response then verify if ground, signal or reference is missing and run that straight to the PCM. I’ve done that quite a bit.
@@SchrodingersBox Hey there, just checking back in. I did extensive testing today. I did the bypass and it checks out good. It initiates the fuel pump to pump every time. I took it a step further and took the sensor out, connected it to the harness, then tapped it with a wrench and it responded by kicking on the fuel pump every time. I went even further by installing the sensor back in to the block, and then spinning the crank over by hand (verifying spacing) and the fuel pump kicked on every single time.
I then went even deeper, and tested for voltage on my high reference (11.0 volts), saw that that was good so I thought, ok maybe there's a break in the signal wire somewhere so then maybe I'm not getting the full voltage, I poked it at the ECM, turned on the key (did the bypass again to make sure voltage was getting there) and saw that there was a full 11 volts there.
Here's where things get a little interesting...The low reference wire, all though I don't believe there are any breaks in the system as I have good continuity, I don't see a low reference. No ground, no 5 volts, nothing...So my question is, why would the fuel pump kick on, yet when I try to crank the vehicle, I get a p0336?
I'm at such a loss on this one.
The low reference is the ground. The way you describe it sounds like it’s working. Only thing left is to check cam and crank correlation. The sensor and wiring seem to be working based on what you say.
@@SchrodingersBox Please help me! I have a 2007 chevy cobalt ss. I’ve had the crankshaft sensor replaced 5 times now, the connector or pigtail is what the guy told me, replaced twice. Originally it was not starting after I put gas in and stalling at stops. The sensor fixed it not starting. But now it is still dropping and staying at zero rpm’s and stalling at stops again. The mechanic is now telling me he either has to spend 2-3 hours going through wiring(which he still hasn’t told me which wiring 🤷♀️) or he can try to replace the ecm. I have already paid twice for the sensor to be replaced and for the connector to be replaced. I asked him if he had to put his money on it which would he go for first and he said it’s about 50/50. I cannot afford $300 plus just to guess and it end up not working. Here are the codes it’s throwing. P0326, P0336, PO446, P1174, B1325 and this may have nothing to do with it but just in case B3950. Please if anyone might be able to point me in the right direction I would really appreciate it!
Well done Matt, this was enjoyable as always. You're my greatest teacher when it comes to diagnostics.👍👍👍
Thanks again!
@@SchrodingersBox You're most welcome Sir 🙏🙏🙏
Hey I checked on my car and it's not a wiring issue. What would be the problem?
lol. you pulling my leg!!! good to see you back. been a while!!!
I heard you say several time throughout the video “could be pcm” or something like that. How would you check the pcm?
I would check the sensor signal input at the pCM and if it’s there AND there is no PCM signal output, you know the PCM must be bad because it is receiving signal but not processing an output.
@@SchrodingersBox thank you for getting back to me
When probing the lt. green wire at the crank sensor i get continuity to ground. The lt green wire in c1 pin 2 also showing to be ground when probing. I see it supposed to be 12v Reference. I'm baffled. Help Appreciated
What are your signal and reference voltages showing?
hi there I had a question my buddies truck throws the same code but when its warm out he'd be driving and then out of nowhere it'd just die and wouldn't start again until cool. would this be caused by the same aspect
very much could. what is the signal voltage on his truck showing when the issue happens?
No better instructor on TH-cam 👍🏽
Hwy i have 3 kids and im in need of direction or help. 2008 clk350 80k miles. I replaced mine die to code p0336 i recieved. I bought the replacement from orielys and after replacing it, it turns but wont start just like before i checked it with my obd. Does it need to be calibrated or something with the ecu or something ? Please help me.
Any ideas why my 11 mustang gt will not successfully relearn the crankshaft position? Ive returned my idle, and other perimeters to stock and attempted the process numerous times. I get the error on my sct saying maximum attempts reached, restart procedure. Is this an inducation of a bad sensor?
it’s possible the timing is off, there is incorrect signal input, or you are not reaching fuel cutoff.
I have a 2010 Chevy Malibu and I just replaced the cam and crack sensor and I forgot to relearn it and now it’s no starting when I brought a scanner it said oil and oil filter
The relearn has nothing to do with timing. It is strictly for the misfire detection calibration. If you have a no start then something is aligned or not connected.
My son car have the same problem, I not mechanic but I have an electronics background.
I have oscilloscopes and multimeters.
Mechanic change the Crankshaft sensor 3 times, is imposible to fail 3 times.
Do you know where I can find this connector or let me know the terminals part number?
Any help will be appreciate
Thanks in Advance.
Is there a way to get the crankshaft sensor relearn done without a scan tool out of curiosity Thanking you. Great video by the way 👍👍
No there isn’t. but it also isn’t critical- it has nothing to do with operation of engine. it’s just for learning misfire detection which again is only useful for a scantool.
@@SchrodingersBox thank you really appreciate your reply.
Helloy car has the same problem i changed new sensors and the code still comes up and i have code p
P0335 FOR FAULTY or damaged key
I had the 335 code, changed the sensor with an oe sensor, still having the same issues, I have frayed wires at the connector, could this have been the issue ? The old sensor was fouled out with oil from the block too
Could be. What was your signal voltage showing?
I’ll be checking tomorrow as I don’t have my voltmeter. Probably just going to replace all 3 wires as close to the connector as possible so I won’t need to repin it
I don’t know why you would want to do that if you see signal from the sensor, right?
The repair on the trans cooler line (worm drive clamps and hose at 18:50) is guaranteed to rub a hole in the return trans cooler line right next to it. That poor 4l80e is going to burn right up when it does. Nice diag and repair on the crank sensor harness. Thanks for the tip on the "crimp supply" kit. Matt, do you know if autoenginuity has to reverse engineer things like a GM CKP relearn, or if they just pay GM for the information?
nice observation on the trans cooler- never even noticed it because I was fixated on filming the sensor. I usually do keep an eye out for stuff like that!!
no idea on the Autoenginuity question. I am not sure if each manufacturer is responsible for the communication abilities or if there is some type of “engine” that is used on all scantools.
Wow I wish I could just have you come and fix my truck 😂 I’m having the exact same issues
Best diagnostic channel on the net!
Hey I changed my my crankshaft position sensor In my 2016 camaro 2ss and I used my topdon 600 s scan tool..I cleared all default codes and now my dang car cranks but no start.. I am so stressed out..I have changed my spark plugs and coil packs and wires...I am getting spark and air and fuel...and my car will still not start...car you please help me out...I am new to your channel...thanks for the info and direction..I have learned alot from you and have been very pleased by your teachings...so please help me out on this problem..its killing me big time not driving my camaro..and I love how black bird sounds...
Thank you
Cade Knight
So which FASTTEC component is missing? you never mentioned that I can see.
Any thoughts on why i get p0322 and p15A100 pls? I've trawled TH-cam and Google and my best guess is crankshaft position sensor but I'm only just starting out trying to fix my own issues as i can't afford garage anymore. Pls help
Oh I also have the stop start message on my dash saying it's unavailable intermittently. It's a 2010 audi a5 2.0 tfsi
I'm back again! I forgot to mention the problem which is when up to temp and driving, the revs drop for a split second intermittently and sometimes when coming to a stop but still moving slowly, they cut out and the power steering goes off but the latter of the 2 seems to be the stop start function kicking in, which I find strange as I've not come to a stop completely and I'm still in gear. Usually when I've slowed right down and I'm turning a corner. Which is scary lol
what data do you have?
@SchrodingersBox sorry didn't see you'd replied. I don't know much but what data would I need? I have an obd eleven scan tool so if u point me in the right direction I'll do my best to provide it. I've just changed the sensor and the car drives without cutting out but now it cranks for 5 seconds before it starts and the idle seems slightly rough.
Also getting p008800 now
I have an 04 buick rendezvous fuel pump has no power. The relay has power at 87 pin but no power on 30 is that correct. No codes on obd2fuse good fuel pump replace my mistake problem wasn't fuel pump any help much appreciated
Jump power to the load side and see if it runs.
I jumped pin 30 to pin 87 pump still did not run .tried reading ohm to pump power wire from fuse supply side got no reading
May have located problem camshaft sensor has bad wires from power steering pump leaking maybe problem 🤔
Buick rendezvous running now never trust a but connector fuel pump connector was broken loose on ground had to take fuel tank down. Used the new style solder connector awesome
Can a bad ecu cause a crankshaft code to pop up? My car doesn't want to rev over 3000 rpm and the rpm will goes up and down during idle
yes it can. simple to determine: see if the ECU is receiving the signal.
Is it possible that my new sensor I bought 2 months ago can be bad already? I check all the wires and everything
always a possibility. when you checked the wires what voltages were you seeing on reference and signal?
I have a 2007 Chevy equinox and they made this vehicle from 05 to 09 I think. I’ve change the crank sensor and had problems cause wouldn’t start ruff idle and cut off. The point I’m getting at when you change the crank sensor replace it with the exact part manufacturer that came out from the vehicle not all manufacturer wire there crank sensor the same.
I just had the timing belt changed on my 05 Xterra, noticed a pretty significant change in the power band, went from making max power at 2-3k rpm to only picking up somewhere after 4k rpm. Cant find a relearn procedure for Nissan though, only thing that keeps popping up is idle air relearn procedure
Sounds more to me like you may have missed a tooth-- the idle relearn wont restore power like that- there should be no difference in engine performance without the relearn.
@@SchrodingersBox yeah I wish it was me that did it. First time in 15 years I took a vehicle to a mechanic and it'll be the last in another 20
For what its worth there arent any misfires, stalls, or anything, but the power band definitely changed
yeah that’s what I would expect with a missed tooth- exactly that. maybe check for a pending cam or crank sensor code.
@@SchrodingersBox many thanks. I just took it for another test drive and there's an audible click at right around 4k in almost any gear...camt figure out if its pinging, or maybe the timing chain snapping as its correcting?
Good video Matt. Check out an Astro 9477 ratcheting crimp tool kit with interchangeable dies.
It has dies specifically designed to crimp those open faced terminals as well as the common insulated closed barrel style that is so ubiquitous. It makes a NASA grade crimp every time.
I like mine because it crimps both tangs at the same time and there is no guess work about how far to place the terminal in the dies. FYI
thanks man, good to see you and yeah good advice. I very seldom have to repin a connector but yeah when I do it’s a real pain using basic tools for the crimping.
Just discovered your page. Seems like another “ready, aim, fire” brother living in a “fire ready aim” world. Love your thought process, analysis and approach. I laugh because all the dirty fingernail types have already changed 10 parts and decided that the engine is “just shot due to age”. Don’t waste your time trying to convince the “fire ready aim” types to slow down……just know that us 2%ers get your channel completely. I need to go back and see what your source materials are around scan tools, online manuals and such……..
I wish i could find someone like you in my neighborhood. Maybe ill take a shot at asking you this to see if you respond. I have an 09 Camry with a p0335 code, we arent mechanics so we just had someone replace the CSP sensor and the car is lighting up but no crank at all. My car has been sitting for 3 months and i would love any advice where to start or try next. Hope you read this!
The first step is getting your reference, signal and ground voltages. Without that there is nothing I can suggest. We have to see where the issue is.
Who ever replaced your sensor should have done that before replacing it. Did they collect that data?
Hey there sir, your videos are so helpful! I’m subscribing! Just curious what would make this loose connection issue worst once it’s warmed up, what makes it temperature dependent ? My 05 5.3 is doing the same thing, and actually it gets worse when I hit bumps , but it gets so bad when the motor is hot, when cold it dosent do it
It’s because nearly all matter expands when heated and contracts when cooled. This will either tighten or loosen a bad connection. In the case of dissimilar materials, the rates of expansion can be different which also can cause contact surface to vary with temperature.
What about when you have a 2 wire connector for a crank sensor? What are the wires? I am losing signal
That would be an inductive sensor that generates AC voltage with reluctor movement. Much much easier that the Hall effect - just check the bias voltage.
@@SchrodingersBox the sensor is new, both sensors are new. Yes, I bought 2. I want to know about the two wires. Where do they go? The computer? Is one wire a ground? I have a 2006
It’s AC voltage. Not DC. Measure the AC voltage generated to confirm sensor operation and bias voltage for wiring integrity.
@@SchrodingersBox I already know the cpk is good, I have 2 new ones. I need to check the integrity of the two wires that go to the sensor. I need to know what voltage is being sent to the sensor on start up and/or if what these wires do. Is one grounded to the ecu? Or do both just go to the ecu. I need to know the pins in the ecu connector. Also is there a relay involved in this circuit? I have a 2006 dodge sprinter
Yes that’s what I am saying. I don’t understand why the sensor is replaced- check the bias voltage and then look for AC activity at the PCM. Simple as that!!
I have a dumb question, is it possible for a bad wheel bearing sensor to somehow mess with a crank shaft sensor, to cause a no start? Its a 2001 pontiac grand am 2.4,
it’s not a stupid question as often there are shared grounds on multiple systems that you otherwise would not think would intersect- but I don’t see that as a possibility in this scenario. ABS is a whole separate thing that won’t intersect with ignition signals.
@@SchrodingersBox that narrows it down. Thanks alot.
I have a really stupid question. I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 with the P0336 circuit/range performance. Very similar to the issues with this particular vehicle. It seemed like the solution to the problem for this vehicle was fixing the terminals. Am I understanding that right!? Please help. I have been experiencing this issues for months now and really need help. Please message me or help in any way.
in this case that’s correct. what was your voltage data showing from the CKPS?
@@SchrodingersBox I’m not sure. Im speaking from a dealership standpoint and multiple. But it’s literally exactly like this vehicle you were showing in the video. It’s a P0336 crankshaft position sensor A circuit/performance. GMC suggested replacing 6 terminals on ckp circuits. Which is what it look like you did in your video. If I’m correct I think?
I can’t say without seeing data from the sensor. many things can cause these exact same symptoms. there is no evidence you have yet showing you have sensor output.
I have a car 2008 chevy express 4.8 crank no start p0335 I changed the crankshaft sensor now still crank no start but the code changed to p0016 what cause the code to change ?
What was your data from the sensor before changing it?
@Schrodingers Box at beginning the old sensor was broken inside I started with visual inspiration and sure enough it was broken inside the whole tip was eating away . That's why I jumped to change it .
Ok and I assume it has variable valve timing? If so you need to check the cam angle relative to crankshaft.
@@SchrodingersBox any short steps on how to do that.
yes I do it by just looking at the cam signal voltages and overlay with crank signal voltages.
you may find it easier to start by checking the duty cycle on the timing solenoids.