Try not to get annoyed by comments there are way to many people who are willing to share their less than helpful comments, love your videos it’s a pleasure to watch someone who skillfully methodically does their job and shares their wisdom of how to work smart.
Excellent presentation, Matt. THANK YOU. Decades ago on my very first (part time) job as a teenager my boss used to tell me, “Son, what you don’t do with your brain you have to do with your back.” On automotive, what you don’t do with your brain you have to do with a wrench. Thanks again for showing the way on using the brain on auto diag and repair.
Thanks for sharing! That is great, great advice. Actually most mechanics I have known have had bad backs too. turning a wrench is often bad on your back so the less you do it and the more you can do on a computer or using a dry erase board, the longer the career you will have! I will have to use your old boss’s advice in my next video. I love that.
@@SchrodingersBox Quote originator's name is Stillman Terry, and I heard that quote from him more than once from 1975-1977 when I worked for him in the Village Butcher shop in Annandale, VA. He was a meat cutter by trade, and could cut up a steer and then put it back together and it would walk away ( ;-) ). He's a retired Green Beret. I got a lot of valuable lifelong wisdom thanks to him. :-)
Like how you used a process . Thinking about the facts , diagnosing the root cause , planning an efficient course of action, and verifying the fix. Also like the way you allowed your lady to have a role ! You looked at the camera and simply resumed coaching us after she fixed your hair nice . 👍🏼
All credit to Vicki here - it's amazing what a great stylist can do to ensure that we aren't subjected to repairs by Foghorn Leghorn in a baseball cap. I will admit that those tricky shots underneath the vehicle were pretty impressive too. Great tutorial. 🐓
This channel is absolutely awesome I love how you break down the diagnostics.Ive been having a similar issue with my wife's 2008 Chevy suburban the car is hard to crank than the traction control deactivates no signal to the tack at all car will drive with a p 305 code but hard shifts into second gear pings and runs like crap. I reset the engine code and the car runs solid for a few days and all of a sudden just decides it wants to act up.I look at the live data on the scanner and it doesn't even have a hiccup while driving. The other issues is a slow crank like it's got a dragging starter or bad ground things giving me one hell of a headache but after watching this I know I need to look at these wires and see what the hecks going on.
I told you that The greatest thing come free, it takes a great human being to share this kind of info in detail. You reminded me of the time I was back at school! This will relief 😮💨 a lot of head aches! Thanks 🙏🏿! You are a great man!
The background story, the case study and mapping procedure, this is keys to success. I appreciate this kind of thought, this kind of logical and technical approach to a scenario. Im currently dealing with a crank no start issue which had a camshaft sensor signal error on the scan tool and we've already detected shoddy wiring. We havent gone through the entire harness but at the connector itself was some damaged wiring and bad soldering and connections made. Replaced the sensor but still no start. So ill test the sensor wiring once the mechanic arrives tomorrow or before he gets here and we'll see how this gets us. Thanks,. Happy to have invested 31 minutes of my life in this informative video. Much appreciated from Cape Town, South Africa.
Scotty is good for entertainment and basic information. Matt is a scientist/mechanic who's great for determining the truth. I can actually hear the wiring/short in my 08' Subaru, AFTER the "reputable" local shop replaced the ecu , which didn't solve the problem, and, after I got a "BlueDriver" obd2 scan tool which immediately caught a crankshaft position sensor code. "Tickling" my Subaru ( visual inspection and listening ) has me moving scientifically closer to the Truth.
Definitely helped me along the way of electrical problems! Definitely puts a lot of work into making time to give others a on point tutorial! A lot of respect! Thank you.
You are the best i have a 97 gmc 4.3 v6 vortex having the same issue with the crank position sensor . you have explained and i gotta say im hands on although u did a wonderful presentation and covered everything that needed to be shown in how to diagnose the p codes thank you for doing wat u do .
absolutely love your tuition and in depth methods. ive gotta admit i 'was once' a part changer but really enjoying the understanding how it works and live readings before judgment . love this channel !
Thank you for your precious explainations. With P0336, my Citroën C4 1,6 16V sounded like a lawn mower. When I stopped engine during about twenty seconds before restart, I could accelerate normally once again. I've replaced the spark plugs this afternoon. For the moment, I no longer have P0336 and no longer roug stalling. 9:00
Ok, this is just a niggly bit not even about the car. One of the things you will see other TH-cam automotive repair channels do is when they are introducing a car to the audience they will typically show at least a portion of the vehicle. I know, it's just a sort of comfort thing but it helps. Do what you want, I will keep watching your stuff whether you like it or not.😁. You already know I like them all.
I did initially show the truck but I edited it out because it was so big it couldn’t be shown in a single frame of view so I figured there was no point.
Your pretty straight forward; i can say cause these real life scenarios can be a pain but i like the one with the cks your initionally saying is if you have a good referance, by replacing the cks is a sure fix if the wires are not broken
If you have a good reference AND ground AND signal integrity then and only then is it guaranteed replacing the CKPS will fix it if there is no CKPS output.
You could also test each connector pin with the car shut off using an ohm meter, by back probing a pin with one lead and probing the other end with the other lead and then wiggling it. If it deviates even the smallest amount from zero, you have a bad connection. Doing it this way is also safer as long as you probe each pin to ground first to make sure there isn't any live power. Unlikely that there is, but better to be safe than sorry.
Here I was getting excited to see the piercing probes come out to play and all we needed was the wiggle test. That saved precious moments and gives more Sunday afternoon beer drinking time. haha
yeah it’s funny you say that- I was going to use the pierce probes but the CKPS wiring goes right into another harness that is still behind the starter so you still can’t access even with probes without removing the starter. no way around it, starter has to come out.
@@SchrodingersBox good old fashion GM engineering.🤷♂️ I've known to poke those wires at or near the PCM to take a look see. The good point Matt is the truck is fixed and somebody owes you a few drinks. 😉
You know those who watch SCOTTY KILMER are really loking for Comedy relief he has no logic about what he do'es on Cars thank you Matt for the great Videos.
The only tool used in this video is schrodinger himself What a pathetic instructor Obviously it makes you feel like a big man calling down people looking for help You're a real piece of work
changed CSPS, still Same 335,336 with 07 6.7 Ram, then exhaust filter 80%, retired just putt about small town, drove on freeway(UGH) 50 miles Exhaust msg cleared. still 335,336. Thanks will try this now...
Thanx 4 the video! My 100th anniversary harley truck has this same problem! Replaced sensor twice now! What a pain! I am convinced it’s in the wiring! Can unplug & replug it in & it’ll start! Sometimes! Intermittent problem! I’m thinking the factory original was not faulty afterall!
Wow. A great person and excellent videos. The video that I just watched might be the best TH-cam help video that I have ever seen. He goes into detail and I found that so helpful and complete. GREAT. Thanks for making this video !!!
These will drive you crazy because the cam and crank are supplied by the same 12v in the pcm. I remember an 05 doesn't show they are shared but what happens is an oil leak at the top of the engine breaks the wires down and shorts out the 12v on the connector to the cam. Many times it only shows a crank sensor code but will be a no start. If that 12v is pulled down to about 8v it will make it run like poo or set 300 code
Hi probably too late to get a response on this, but I’ve got this issue, noticed oil out of the camshaft / crankshaft connector into the DME, and still got intermittent running (stalls when hot) after replacing crank and both cam sensors. Do you have more detail on this issue? I can’t work out how the oil is getting into the wires?
I had the same p0335 code on a 2007 G6 GT 3.9L .. I changed the knock sensor out with one from O’Reillys and the code still came back. I double checked the wiring with a multimeter from the connector up to the top of the harness and both the wires were good so I knew that it wasn’t the connector or the wiring, so I bought a AC Delco knock sensor, and put that in and everything is good, no more check engine light!
Yup some third party or after market crank and knock sensors won’t work in certain brands of especially GM and Nissans are notoriously hateful of aftermarket sensors a lot of aftermarket cam and crankshaft sensors will not work on Nissans Nissan tech told me they don’t put out the proper voltage reference
Matt, I am having the same issue with my 2006 3500 15pax van. Runs decent when cold, VERY intermittent rough run/complete stall when warm. Currently has the P0335 code. Your thorough approach and detailed explanation is FANTASTIC! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us! I will let you know what I find out tomorrow when troubleshooting, but using your scientific method, I am guessing a wiring short as well. Cheers from a 5280 native!
Dear Matt, i have the same problem with my yukon 2008 model i change three sensor still same when cold start car is perfect after got some heat the check engine light flashing and code p0335 . Can you please tell me how you solve the problem
@@SchrodingersBoxi have a 2004 chevy silverado 4.8 and it died on me coming home from work. I changed the crankshaft sensor and now it starts up but onece it reaches temperature it shuts off and don’t start anymore. I don’t have no codes anymore
Thanks man, I appreciate that. actually about 80% of the time I am fixing someone else’s mistakes. I almost get the car after several others tried to fix it.
Damn wish you lived next door I have never seen anyone with your knowledge explaining code issues like this , Don't worry about your hair buddy You Rock ! Thanks !
Just discovered your page. Seems like another “ready, aim, fire” brother living in a “fire ready aim” world. Love your thought process, analysis and approach. I laugh because all the dirty fingernail types have already changed 10 parts and decided that the engine is “just shot due to age”. Don’t waste your time trying to convince the “fire ready aim” types to slow down……just know that us 2%ers get your channel completely. I need to go back and see what your source materials are around scan tools, online manuals and such……..
I have this and did the same thing this guy did. (Replace ckp sensor) No shop will help me further and they say they don’t do those codes and I’m in a small town. Car runs rough and bucks and sputters and rpm needle drops at warm up temp. Crazy how you make it seem so simple yet two years of my life have been hell replacing plugs ,wires, coil pack ,batteries and wires. Even removed the catalytic converter. Can’t tell you what a pain this code is p0036
I've been having an issue with my 2015 fiat 500. Initially i was getting P0336 and i went to the fiat dealership to get it replaced. After getting my car back it barely started. Went straight to autozone and was getting P0336 still along with another code stating that the sensor needed a relearn. Brought it back to the dealership for them to relearn the sensor. Went home and realized that the 3 page report they gave me only showed them updating the ECU to a new version, nothing was mentioned in the report of an actual relearn. Getting the same codes. Not sure what to do at this point.
Start with the extreme basics: What are your signal voltages showing? What’s your reference voltage? By the way a relearn has nothing to do with timing or anything. A relearn is to allow the sensor to calibrate for cylinder misfire identification. Not doing a relearn has no effect on performance- it will just affect accuracy of the misfire detection.
diagnostic king of youtube 👑 im racking of my brain trying to figure out what this 6.0L gm motor is doing. getting no codes but reduced power, chugging and chocking, stalling, not starting up immediately...still no check engine light, ive checked the obvious...ignition...air intake, to catalytic convertors...i dont know what to do next
This week I fixed my friend's 2000 Volvo V70 II which had a similar issue and similar cause. He just bought it and the previous owner had the cam and crankshaft sensor replaced for about 250€ and it didn't fix the problem. My scan tool can't read Volvo DTCs, but a shop confirmed there were still cam and crank sensor codes and a VVT solenoid code. I started the hard way and removed the ECM to check the wiring and it all turned out good. Later I bought some thin needles to probe the signals of the sensors with my oscilloscope (would've been lot easier to start with that lol). The crank sensor had a good signal but the cam sensor had a very untidy signal intermittently (it's supposed to square from 0-5V and then was very glitchy). First I suspected my needle but it had good contact. Then I disassembled the connector ans bent the spring taps back into shape to give it more preload. The signal was clean now and the engine ran fine without misfires and didn't have a hard start anymore. tl;dr: the scientific approach once again could have saved a lot of money if the previous shop had diagnosed the issue before changing parts 😀
Oh and regarding 20:40 I had the same issue with those shrink tubes with solder inside as well. They got brittle after just two years and the soldering inside was very poor to begin with. I really can't recommend using them. They were used on the temperature sensor of the same Volvo (even though the connection didn't fail (yet)).
Fantastic! Thank you for sharing the all-important thinking skills for fixing weird little schtuff like this. Subbed! I so appreciate your though process and coming up with a diagnosis hypothesis and plan, based on analyzing symptoms Having a theory that we are looking for a sketchy wiring/connection issue FIRST is miles ahead of simply replacing parts. Recently had a Ford Focus 2002 with no blower. Found bad fuse. Replaced fuse. Nothing. At that point, removing blower motor and testing with 12V power supply, motor appeared dead. Took a flyer and bought a new motor--tested good on same 12V power supply. Yay! Not so fast--installed motor--nothing. Except on Max blow setting--worked on that. Aha! That is classic bad resistor symptom. Replaced heater resistor--success! All worked! Your approach of seeking "Why" symptoms happened... Well, blown fuse apparently a result of motor seizing up that final time, and possibly blew out the resistor too, or maybe resistor already bad. Anyway, love your process of analyzing the symptoms and seeking to understand most likely causes, and having a plan before simply throwing parts at the problem. Thank GOD I didn't have to depend on my auto mechanic skills to feed my family; now THAT would have led to a LOT of trips to the Food Bank...
My sister had a 03 Nissan Pathfinder with p0335 that had the exact symptoms he described before swapping the crankshaft position sensor. I could never get confirmation it was the sensor and it only threw the code one out of maybe every 10 times it refused to start so I suspected it was just a referenced code. The only thing I could find wrong for sure is the fuel pump was out of spec, only giving about half of it's rated fuel pressure. Not fully understanding the mechanisms but trusting in the data I had, I decided to replace the fuel pump. Completely resolved the issue. I suspect what was happening was the vehicle had no way of knowing it had died due to being starved of fuel, so it threw a crankshaft position sensor when it saw the crank was no longer spinning. What the PCM didn't know is that was legitimate, the crankshaft _really wasn't_ turning anymore due to a sudden loss of fuel. I further suspect the fuel injectors have a very specific pressure that they will no longer open at all (thinking like a "burst pressure"), causing the low fuel pressure issue to go from "running fine" to "not running at all". Moral of the story is if you see p0335 or other similar codes, don't just go replacing the crankshaft position sensor.
I changed my cps and fuel pump on Chevrolet Express, and as soon as it warmed up it dies, no codes. After watching this video I went and took out my cps pigtail and saw the wires are exposed and coved in oil. Went to junk yard bought new pigtail for 3$, wired it up and it runs now.
I just changed my CPS 2014 Hyundai accent GLS 1.6 liter before I replaced it it kept stalling. Now it’s jerky jerky runs like crap. Do I need to have it relearned to get it to run good
Good video Matt. Check out an Astro 9477 ratcheting crimp tool kit with interchangeable dies. It has dies specifically designed to crimp those open faced terminals as well as the common insulated closed barrel style that is so ubiquitous. It makes a NASA grade crimp every time. I like mine because it crimps both tangs at the same time and there is no guess work about how far to place the terminal in the dies. FYI
thanks man, good to see you and yeah good advice. I very seldom have to repin a connector but yeah when I do it’s a real pain using basic tools for the crimping.
I have a 2004 dakota 3.7 engine with the same problem, the engine was removed for oil pan replacement exhaust leaks on the heads,the engine ran fine before removed after the engine was installed back in it make about 10 revolution before it fire the po355 came on it run fine at a idle but it won't pass over 2200 hundred rpm replacement or cps was done and the problem still there.
Thanku thanku had same problem on 2008 avalanche, changed sensor worse. Beat head on hood few times no change. Watched a lot of videos nothing. Seen yours on electrical problems started checking wires and connections. Found to be main ground on left engine block connector was almost broken made intermittent contact. Replaced connector alls good. Thanks again!
I have a 2007 Chevy equinox and they made this vehicle from 05 to 09 I think. I’ve change the crank sensor and had problems cause wouldn’t start ruff idle and cut off. The point I’m getting at when you change the crank sensor replace it with the exact part manufacturer that came out from the vehicle not all manufacturer wire there crank sensor the same.
I have follow ur channel to become a professional mechanic.u gave me a free training on your paid channel.through your videos I got know Paul and I really appreciate it.I have Autel Maxisys ultra.thanks
Hey I changed my my crankshaft position sensor In my 2016 camaro 2ss and I used my topdon 600 s scan tool..I cleared all default codes and now my dang car cranks but no start.. I am so stressed out..I have changed my spark plugs and coil packs and wires...I am getting spark and air and fuel...and my car will still not start...car you please help me out...I am new to your channel...thanks for the info and direction..I have learned alot from you and have been very pleased by your teachings...so please help me out on this problem..its killing me big time not driving my camaro..and I love how black bird sounds... Thank you Cade Knight
I disconnected mine and replaced the O ring and reconnected and now I have issues, lots of oil in my connection so I’m thinking I have the same problem
I have a question for you. There seems tto be alot of issues with BCM system,with water leaking into Hummers and it creating a mess of electrical issues. Not only that these GM cars and truck from the early 2000's have electric issues. I have ad H3 Hummer, that has haall kind of electrical issues because of water coming in from the leaky sunroof,and draining down the a pillar and getting to the BCM. Now the sunroof has been siliconed and so no water is coming in. Now the question,I replaced the BCM with a preprogrammed unit,and went through the 30 min passlock system relearn and the car wouldn't start. Did it several times and still nothing. Notice that the crank sensor code along wiht air pump code is on,so the car isnt gonna start with the key. But if I tried using just the remote start and did the 10 min reset for 30 minutes and the car starts up,but will not start with key. In the beginning there were 2 codes on the crank sensor and the air pump,both parts were replaced and the codes never shut off, I think the car is not starting from the key because the crank sensor code is still on,check the fuses and wires for breakage,every problem sight of a ground missing,nothing!
Having a similar issue with a 2014 Cruze 1.4T. Differnt symptoms, runs rough at ideal and cold, run smooth when warmed up and at moderate and high RPM. No RPM reading at all on the Tach.
Where would you have started with code P0336 ? I let my suburban 5.3 sit for about a month or more starting it occasionally. I left the hood cracked the past two weeks because I just added a leveling kit. When I went to turn it back on it was dead and has probably been dead for at least two weeks. Could this cause the computer to lose memory to the crankshaft sensor? I plan on researching more and your video certainly is a great start to diagnosing my issue. I think the thing I am going to hate the most about this is having to take off the starter. That's a pretty crappy task. My suburban is an 08' z71 I wonder if they have changed the location of these sensors since. I doubt it though. Let me know how you would have done this alternatively with code P0336 instead of P0335.
on a P0336 I would probably just start with a Crank Sensor bypass and verify consistency of my own Input to determine electrical or mechanical right off the bat.
Very good. What I am trying to figure out is how to identify a crank sensor problem in a Holley Terminator X. The car has an intermitent stall or bog at WOT only. Off the line of while cruising.
Great job. Watched whole video. Because I had new connector replaced. They are saying it's my Reluctor and Crankshaft. Does the engine has to be pulled for that?
I have possibly an issue with crank or cam sensor. My 2006 Silverado stalls after idling for approx 10-13 min. Every time. I’ve driven it and runs fine but still cuts off as if someone turned the ignition. No bucking no loss of power or anything out of the ordinary. It’s as if it cuts off once it’s reached operating temp. I replaced crank sensor still same issue. Was thinking to replace cam sensor as well see if it fixes but not sure if I should start with doing a relearn on crank sensor?
A relearn is strictly for the misfire counting calibration. It had nothing to do with its normal function at all. Instead of doing a relearn, just check the signal voltage instead and see if it’s faulty.
Hi, I would to start off thanking you for the great work that you do. You are my go to guy. i have lean so much from you. that i have try to become a 2% and not one of those 98% that you love so much. If i may .I would like to ask you for some advise. The car in question is a 1995 Toyota tercel. Which every once in a while stall while driving. when you press the brake or turn on the radio, headlights, AC anything electrico. after a few days it return to normal and works fine. During which time i have check For shorted or open wires, Alt outputs with and without a load and everything check out within spec. My very econical scanner is very limited in the amount of information that i get from the car. The code that i was able to get is a PO335 ( crankshaft position sensor A circuit ) and a PO401. i dont want change the crankshaft position sensor , Without finding the real cause of the problem. do you belive the crankshaft sensor would affect all the other electrico loads. Thanking you inadvance for any directions that you can afford me in fixing this issue.
it is pretty clear you have intermittent loss of crank signal. Your best bet is to do a crank sensor bypass by grounding the signal wire several times to see if there is any inconsistency in response. if there isn’t- I would change the crank sensor.
Will this problem also trip reduced power mode? My Yukon 6.0L is experiencing P0336 intermittent and after warm up. Then a very noticeable clunking sound, runs extremely rough and goes into reduced power mode. I then turn it off, restart and I’m good to go for a day or so
My son car have the same problem, I not mechanic but I have an electronics background. I have oscilloscopes and multimeters. Mechanic change the Crankshaft sensor 3 times, is imposible to fail 3 times. Do you know where I can find this connector or let me know the terminals part number? Any help will be appreciate Thanks in Advance.
Excellent as always Yes mechanical is mostly visual while electrical is theory and practice and the repair usually takes less time Matt your vids always make me think before doing By the way have u ever had an erratic problem caused by a wire that was stretched? CHEERS
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Try not to get annoyed by comments there are way to many people who are willing to share their less than helpful comments, love your videos it’s a pleasure to watch someone who skillfully methodically does their job and shares their wisdom of how to work smart.
Excellent presentation, Matt. THANK YOU. Decades ago on my very first (part time) job as a teenager my boss used to tell me, “Son, what you don’t do with your brain you have to do with your back.” On automotive, what you don’t do with your brain you have to do with a wrench. Thanks again for showing the way on using the brain on auto diag and repair.
Thanks for sharing! That is great, great advice.
Actually most mechanics I have known have had bad backs too. turning a wrench is often bad on your back so the less you do it and the more you can do on a computer or using a dry erase board, the longer the career you will have!
I will have to use your old boss’s advice in my next video. I love that.
@@SchrodingersBox Quote originator's name is Stillman Terry, and I heard that quote from him more than once from 1975-1977 when I worked for him in the Village Butcher shop in Annandale, VA. He was a meat cutter by trade, and could cut up a steer and then put it back together and it would walk away ( ;-) ). He's a retired Green Beret. I got a lot of valuable lifelong wisdom thanks to him. :-)
Like how you used a process . Thinking about the facts , diagnosing the root cause , planning an efficient course of action, and verifying the fix. Also like the way you allowed your lady to have a role ! You looked at the camera and simply resumed coaching us after she fixed your hair nice . 👍🏼
All credit to Vicki here - it's amazing what a great stylist can do to ensure that we aren't subjected to repairs by Foghorn Leghorn in a baseball cap. I will admit that those tricky shots underneath the vehicle were pretty impressive too. Great tutorial. 🐓
Hahahaha foghorn leghorn lol!!!! Now I do Declare!!!
@@SchrodingersBox I couldn't write - I say I couldn't write the message for laughing! 😅
🤣 I'm not responsible for this look! I need to get to him before he steps out into the garage.
Foghorn Leghorn... hahaha! Yes, too funny!
Careful boys, your showing your age again! Kids these days don't see those violent cartoons! Mine are on VHS.
@@labradormcgraw you wouldn't happen to know where the other end of the harness is? 05 Nissan Altima 3.5
This channel is absolutely awesome I love how you break down the diagnostics.Ive been having a similar issue with my wife's 2008 Chevy suburban the car is hard to crank than the traction control deactivates no signal to the tack at all car will drive with a p 305 code but hard shifts into second gear pings and runs like crap. I reset the engine code and the car runs solid for a few days and all of a sudden just decides it wants to act up.I look at the live data on the scanner and it doesn't even have a hiccup while driving. The other issues is a slow crank like it's got a dragging starter or bad ground things giving me one hell of a headache but after watching this I know I need to look at these wires and see what the hecks going on.
I told you that The greatest thing come free, it takes a great human being to share this kind of info in detail. You reminded me of the time I was back at school! This will relief 😮💨 a lot of head aches! Thanks 🙏🏿! You are a great man!
The background story, the case study and mapping procedure, this is keys to success. I appreciate this kind of thought, this kind of logical and technical approach to a scenario. Im currently dealing with a crank no start issue which had a camshaft sensor signal error on the scan tool and we've already detected shoddy wiring. We havent gone through the entire harness but at the connector itself was some damaged wiring and bad soldering and connections made. Replaced the sensor but still no start. So ill test the sensor wiring once the mechanic arrives tomorrow or before he gets here and we'll see how this gets us. Thanks,. Happy to have invested 31 minutes of my life in this informative video. Much appreciated from Cape Town, South Africa.
Hope you found the short.... or sensor
Scotty is good for entertainment and basic information. Matt is a scientist/mechanic who's great for determining the truth. I can actually hear the wiring/short in my 08' Subaru, AFTER the "reputable" local shop replaced the ecu , which didn't solve the problem, and, after I got a "BlueDriver" obd2 scan tool which immediately caught a crankshaft position sensor code. "Tickling" my Subaru ( visual inspection and listening ) has me moving scientifically closer to the Truth.
WTF
Definitely helped me along the way of electrical problems! Definitely puts a lot of work into making time to give others a on point tutorial! A lot of respect! Thank you.
Glad it helped!
You are the best i have a 97 gmc 4.3 v6 vortex having the same issue with the crank position sensor . you have explained and i gotta say im hands on although u did a wonderful presentation and covered everything that needed to be shown in how to diagnose the p codes thank you for doing wat u do .
I really enjoy the video to see someone break down every procedure with so much precision. Love these videos from this channel.
Glad to hear! Thanks!!
absolutely love your tuition and in depth methods. ive gotta admit i 'was once' a part changer but really enjoying the understanding how it works and live readings before judgment . love this channel !
Thats great to hear!! You're very welcome!
Thank you for your precious explainations. With P0336, my Citroën C4 1,6 16V sounded like a lawn mower. When I stopped engine during about twenty seconds before restart, I could accelerate normally once again. I've replaced the spark plugs this afternoon. For the moment, I no longer have P0336 and no longer roug stalling. 9:00
Good stuff! I could listen to you all day and everyday and not get tired of it.
Wow, thank you! I don’t think too many people would agree with that though hahahaha. but it is a great compliment.
Ok, this is just a niggly bit not even about the car. One of the things you will see other TH-cam automotive repair channels do is when they are introducing a car to the audience they will typically show at least a portion of the vehicle. I know, it's just a sort of comfort thing but it helps. Do what you want, I will keep watching your stuff whether you like it or not.😁. You already know I like them all.
I did initially show the truck but I edited it out because it was so big it couldn’t be shown in a single frame of view so I figured there was no point.
@@SchrodingersBox Fair enough. Respect.
Your pretty straight forward; i can say cause these real life scenarios can be a pain but i like the one with the cks your initionally saying is if you have a good referance, by replacing the cks is a sure fix if the wires are not broken
If you have a good reference AND ground AND signal integrity then and only then is it guaranteed replacing the CKPS will fix it if there is no CKPS output.
About time!.
You were the only magician on tv without a beautiful assistant.
Glad that's sorted.
Another great video.
What do you mean? She adjusted his hat.
She did help last week with the fuel trim video.
That counts as a regular appearance.
Your videos are excellent and informative. Your approach to problem solving and the way you fix things is excellent
You could also test each connector pin with the car shut off using an ohm meter, by back probing a pin with one lead and probing the other end with the other lead and then wiggling it. If it deviates even the smallest amount from zero, you have a bad connection. Doing it this way is also safer as long as you probe each pin to ground first to make sure there isn't any live power. Unlikely that there is, but better to be safe than sorry.
You are a great teacher I just learned a lot and I know I'll be learning more from you
thank you!!
Here I was getting excited to see the piercing probes come out to play and all we needed was the wiggle test. That saved precious moments and gives more Sunday afternoon beer drinking time. haha
yeah it’s funny you say that- I was going to use the pierce probes but the CKPS wiring goes right into another harness that is still behind the starter so you still can’t access even with probes without removing the starter. no way around it, starter has to come out.
My old shop teacher in high school used to tell us about the wiggle test. Used it many times to success
@@SchrodingersBox good old fashion GM engineering.🤷♂️ I've known to poke those wires at or near the PCM to take a look see. The good point Matt is the truck is fixed and somebody owes you a few drinks. 😉
You know those who watch SCOTTY KILMER are really loking for Comedy relief he has no logic about what he do'es on Cars thank you Matt for the great Videos.
I0 I want to see the the camshaft sensor
0 could you show me the problem shooting the camels the camshaft sensor
The only tool used in this video is schrodinger himself
What a pathetic instructor
Obviously it makes you feel like a big man calling down people looking for help
You're a real piece of work
You're a pure genius bud love the videos
changed CSPS, still Same 335,336 with 07 6.7 Ram, then exhaust filter 80%, retired just putt about small town, drove on freeway(UGH) 50 miles Exhaust msg cleared. still 335,336. Thanks will try this now...
I would also check your cam and crank sensor correlations as well.
Thanx 4 the video! My 100th anniversary harley truck has this same problem! Replaced sensor twice now! What a pain! I am convinced it’s in the wiring! Can unplug & replug it in & it’ll start! Sometimes! Intermittent problem! I’m thinking the factory original was not faulty afterall!
Wow. A great person and excellent videos. The video that I just watched might be the best TH-cam help video that I have ever seen. He goes into detail and I found that so helpful and complete. GREAT. Thanks for making this video !!!
Glad it was helpful!
Have you noticed the speedometer move when u revved the engine after the repair
These will drive you crazy because the cam and crank are supplied by the same 12v in the pcm. I remember an 05 doesn't show they are shared but what happens is an oil leak at the top of the engine breaks the wires down and shorts out the 12v on the connector to the cam. Many times it only shows a crank sensor code but will be a no start. If that 12v is pulled down to about 8v it will make it run like poo or set 300 code
That's my problem, throwing 335 for cpk and everything checks good down there so heading to the cam sensor
@@stubaker1737was that the problem?
That's my problem too! I have a 07 nnbs installed new motor new crank and cam sensor and I have a p0335 code
Hi probably too late to get a response on this, but I’ve got this issue, noticed oil out of the camshaft / crankshaft connector into the DME, and still got intermittent running (stalls when hot) after replacing crank and both cam sensors. Do you have more detail on this issue? I can’t work out how the oil is getting into the wires?
@@theoeagle9834 a lot of times the oil comes through the pins on the sensor. The connector really should be replaced with a pigtail.
As usual another great detailed video,, thanks Matt
I had the same p0335 code on a 2007 G6 GT 3.9L .. I changed the knock sensor out with one from O’Reillys and the code still came back. I double checked the wiring with a multimeter from the connector up to the top of the harness and both the wires were good so I knew that it wasn’t the connector or the wiring, so I bought a AC Delco knock sensor, and put that in and everything is good, no more check engine light!
Yup some third party or after market crank and knock sensors won’t work in certain brands of especially GM and Nissans are notoriously hateful of aftermarket sensors a lot of aftermarket cam and crankshaft sensors will not work on Nissans Nissan tech told me they don’t put out the proper voltage reference
Many after market crankshaft and cam sensors don't work correctly. If your going to replace, get the oem part.
This car/truck has a self lubricating chassis system working great 😂 , nice job Matt 👌
lol yeah it even lubricated my garage floor lol.
@@SchrodingersBox 😂😂😂😂
Gogatz.
Giggaty
Matt,
I am having the same issue with my 2006 3500 15pax van. Runs decent when cold, VERY intermittent rough run/complete stall when warm. Currently has the P0335 code.
Your thorough approach and detailed explanation is FANTASTIC! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us! I will let you know what I find out tomorrow when troubleshooting, but using your scientific method, I am guessing a wiring short as well. Cheers from a 5280 native!
Well I appreciate that! i hope it makes up for the fact I am not a native here hahaha- Sorry for intruding lol.
Dear Matt, i have the same problem with my yukon 2008 model i change three sensor still same when cold start car is perfect after got some heat the check engine light flashing and code p0335 . Can you please tell me how you solve the problem
Start with FASTEC and see if it’s fuel air spark or timing.
@@SchrodingersBoxi have a 2004 chevy silverado 4.8 and it died on me coming home from work. I changed the crankshaft sensor and now it starts up but onece it reaches temperature it shuts off and don’t start anymore. I don’t have no codes anymore
Why does it shut off. What is it losing? Spark or fuel?
I like how you had to fix someone else mistakes.. for example they could have done it correctly but you did it correctly. Cuddos to you.
Thanks man, I appreciate that. actually about 80% of the time I am fixing someone else’s mistakes. I almost get the car after several others tried to fix it.
Most knowledgeable video yet thanks bud
Well done Matt, this was enjoyable as always. You're my greatest teacher when it comes to diagnostics.👍👍👍
Thanks again!
@@SchrodingersBox You're most welcome Sir 🙏🙏🙏
my man living in 2020+ with mouse trails turned on... respect sire.
Hahahahaha!!!!! It helps me see the arrows in bright light but great observation lol
Damn wish you lived next door I have never seen anyone with your knowledge explaining code issues like this , Don't worry about your hair buddy You Rock ! Thanks !
What a nice compliment.
A scientist with a great analytical diagnosis
Just discovered your page. Seems like another “ready, aim, fire” brother living in a “fire ready aim” world. Love your thought process, analysis and approach. I laugh because all the dirty fingernail types have already changed 10 parts and decided that the engine is “just shot due to age”. Don’t waste your time trying to convince the “fire ready aim” types to slow down……just know that us 2%ers get your channel completely. I need to go back and see what your source materials are around scan tools, online manuals and such……..
Who gives atoss about scottys fans anyway... I love your vids and I learn a heck of a lot from them
I have this and did the same thing this guy did. (Replace ckp sensor) No shop will help me further and they say they don’t do those codes and I’m in a small town. Car runs rough and bucks and sputters and rpm needle drops at warm up temp.
Crazy how you make it seem so simple yet two years of my life have been hell replacing plugs ,wires, coil pack ,batteries and wires. Even removed the catalytic converter. Can’t tell you what a pain this code is p0036
Well start with the extreme basics. What data did you have that indicated the sensor was bad. You checked ground, signal and reference right?
I've been having an issue with my 2015 fiat 500. Initially i was getting P0336 and i went to the fiat dealership to get it replaced. After getting my car back it barely started. Went straight to autozone and was getting P0336 still along with another code stating that the sensor needed a relearn. Brought it back to the dealership for them to relearn the sensor. Went home and realized that the 3 page report they gave me only showed them updating the ECU to a new version, nothing was mentioned in the report of an actual relearn. Getting the same codes. Not sure what to do at this point.
Start with the extreme basics: What are your signal voltages showing? What’s your reference voltage?
By the way a relearn has nothing to do with timing or anything. A relearn is to allow the sensor to calibrate for cylinder misfire identification. Not doing a relearn has no effect on performance- it will just affect accuracy of the misfire detection.
CPS behind the starter, go to the Mitsubishi 4 cyl. Line, have to remove the belt drive, pulleys, timing covers, and timing belt.
CKP relearns are pretty much just for more accurate misfire counters....
diagnostic king of youtube 👑
im racking of my brain trying to figure out what this 6.0L gm motor is doing. getting no codes but reduced power, chugging and chocking, stalling, not starting up immediately...still no check engine light, ive checked the obvious...ignition...air intake, to catalytic convertors...i dont know what to do next
when you say you checked ignition, cats and air intake what data did you get and how did you get it?
Wow I wish I could just have you come and fix my truck 😂 I’m having the exact same issues
No better instructor on TH-cam 👍🏽
Move a wrench on what😂😂😂 man u remind me of my oldest brother.such a smartass .love u man. U help me alot with your videos. Thank you....
Hahahaha I consider that an honor!!!!
This week I fixed my friend's 2000 Volvo V70 II which had a similar issue and similar cause. He just bought it and the previous owner had the cam and crankshaft sensor replaced for about 250€ and it didn't fix the problem.
My scan tool can't read Volvo DTCs, but a shop confirmed there were still cam and crank sensor codes and a VVT solenoid code.
I started the hard way and removed the ECM to check the wiring and it all turned out good. Later I bought some thin needles to probe the signals of the sensors with my oscilloscope (would've been lot easier to start with that lol). The crank sensor had a good signal but the cam sensor had a very untidy signal intermittently (it's supposed to square from 0-5V and then was very glitchy).
First I suspected my needle but it had good contact. Then I disassembled the connector ans bent the spring taps back into shape to give it more preload. The signal was clean now and the engine ran fine without misfires and didn't have a hard start anymore.
tl;dr: the scientific approach once again could have saved a lot of money if the previous shop had diagnosed the issue before changing parts 😀
Oh and regarding 20:40 I had the same issue with those shrink tubes with solder inside as well. They got brittle after just two years and the soldering inside was very poor to begin with. I really can't recommend using them.
They were used on the temperature sensor of the same Volvo (even though the connection didn't fail (yet)).
Fantastic! Thank you for sharing the all-important thinking skills for fixing weird little schtuff like this. Subbed! I so appreciate your though process and coming up with a diagnosis hypothesis and plan, based on analyzing symptoms Having a theory that we are looking for a sketchy wiring/connection issue FIRST is miles ahead of simply replacing parts. Recently had a Ford Focus 2002 with no blower. Found bad fuse. Replaced fuse. Nothing. At that point, removing blower motor and testing with 12V power supply, motor appeared dead. Took a flyer and bought a new motor--tested good on same 12V power supply. Yay! Not so fast--installed motor--nothing. Except on Max blow setting--worked on that. Aha! That is classic bad resistor symptom. Replaced heater resistor--success! All worked! Your approach of seeking "Why" symptoms happened... Well, blown fuse apparently a result of motor seizing up that final time, and possibly blew out the resistor too, or maybe resistor already bad. Anyway, love your process of analyzing the symptoms and seeking to understand most likely causes, and having a plan before simply throwing parts at the problem. Thank GOD I didn't have to depend on my auto mechanic skills to feed my family; now THAT would have led to a LOT of trips to the Food Bank...
thanks! one of my 6 pin connector was bent on my 06 honda. even though it went in one of the pins didnt connect. You are awesome!
My sister had a 03 Nissan Pathfinder with p0335 that had the exact symptoms he described before swapping the crankshaft position sensor. I could never get confirmation it was the sensor and it only threw the code one out of maybe every 10 times it refused to start so I suspected it was just a referenced code.
The only thing I could find wrong for sure is the fuel pump was out of spec, only giving about half of it's rated fuel pressure.
Not fully understanding the mechanisms but trusting in the data I had, I decided to replace the fuel pump. Completely resolved the issue.
I suspect what was happening was the vehicle had no way of knowing it had died due to being starved of fuel, so it threw a crankshaft position sensor when it saw the crank was no longer spinning. What the PCM didn't know is that was legitimate, the crankshaft _really wasn't_ turning anymore due to a sudden loss of fuel.
I further suspect the fuel injectors have a very specific pressure that they will no longer open at all (thinking like a "burst pressure"), causing the low fuel pressure issue to go from "running fine" to "not running at all".
Moral of the story is if you see p0335 or other similar codes, don't just go replacing the crankshaft position sensor.
actually I totally forgot to mention - a fuel problem or misfire can cause a P0336 but it won’t cause a P0335.
I changed my cps and fuel pump on Chevrolet Express, and as soon as it warmed up it dies, no codes. After watching this video I went and took out my cps pigtail and saw the wires are exposed and coved in oil. Went to junk yard bought new pigtail for 3$, wired it up and it runs now.
Excellent explanation 👍
I just changed my CPS 2014 Hyundai accent GLS 1.6 liter before I replaced it it kept stalling. Now it’s jerky jerky runs like crap. Do I need to have it relearned to get it to run good
This guys the best at teaching
Best diagnostic channel on the net!
Good video Matt. Check out an Astro 9477 ratcheting crimp tool kit with interchangeable dies.
It has dies specifically designed to crimp those open faced terminals as well as the common insulated closed barrel style that is so ubiquitous. It makes a NASA grade crimp every time.
I like mine because it crimps both tangs at the same time and there is no guess work about how far to place the terminal in the dies. FYI
thanks man, good to see you and yeah good advice. I very seldom have to repin a connector but yeah when I do it’s a real pain using basic tools for the crimping.
Well I didn't fast forward anything but I did rewind it a few times.
I have a 2004 dakota 3.7 engine with the same problem, the engine was removed for oil pan replacement exhaust leaks on the heads,the engine ran fine before removed after the engine was installed back in it make about 10 revolution before it fire the po355 came on it run fine at a idle but it won't pass over 2200 hundred rpm replacement or cps was done and the problem still there.
Impressive........most impressive!
Thanku thanku had same problem on 2008 avalanche, changed sensor worse. Beat head on hood few times no change. Watched a lot of videos nothing. Seen yours on electrical problems started checking wires and connections. Found to be main ground on left engine block connector was almost broken made intermittent contact. Replaced connector alls good. Thanks again!
Very satisfying!
well done. very good approach of the problem.
Nice logical deduction.
Will re-join the paid channel in the next week or so.
Please do! also in a couple months I will be making some major upgrades it will have a whole new look!
I have a 2007 Chevy equinox and they made this vehicle from 05 to 09 I think. I’ve change the crank sensor and had problems cause wouldn’t start ruff idle and cut off. The point I’m getting at when you change the crank sensor replace it with the exact part manufacturer that came out from the vehicle not all manufacturer wire there crank sensor the same.
I have follow ur channel to become a professional mechanic.u gave me a free training on your paid channel.through your videos I got know Paul and I really appreciate it.I have Autel Maxisys ultra.thanks
ah that’s great to hear!!!!
Great,elaborate diagnostic procedures….
Well worth the 30 minute watch
There is definitely oil on that plug
Thank you for the "next door neighborhood app" and thanks for all your detailed videos! God bless...
Mate!! I love your vids!!!!
Been watching heaps
Cheers! 🇦🇺 🍻
Glad to hear!!
Hey I changed my my crankshaft position sensor In my 2016 camaro 2ss and I used my topdon 600 s scan tool..I cleared all default codes and now my dang car cranks but no start.. I am so stressed out..I have changed my spark plugs and coil packs and wires...I am getting spark and air and fuel...and my car will still not start...car you please help me out...I am new to your channel...thanks for the info and direction..I have learned alot from you and have been very pleased by your teachings...so please help me out on this problem..its killing me big time not driving my camaro..and I love how black bird sounds...
Thank you
Cade Knight
So which FASTTEC component is missing? you never mentioned that I can see.
AWESOME and thanks for sharing brother Matt.
thanks for watching!!always good to see you
That was a great learning video. Much thanks
Glad it was helpful!
I fix machinery all the time excellent work buddy 👍😁
Thanks 👍
I replaced my crankshaft position sensor and still got the p0335 code so that means the wiring is probably not connected or no signal going to my PCM
correct.
I disconnected mine and replaced the O ring and reconnected and now I have issues, lots of oil in my connection so I’m thinking I have the same problem
Most wiring issues is either at the plug or atleast a foot away from the plug unless your friendly rodent was doing a little wiring work of his own.
Nice job Matt🔧☺👍
Thank you! Cheers!
the trick to a hat is to wear the correct way bib on front
Good work. Very helpful.
Thanks.
I have a question for you.
There seems tto be alot of issues with BCM system,with water leaking into Hummers and it creating a mess of electrical issues.
Not only that these GM cars and truck from the early 2000's have electric issues.
I have ad H3 Hummer, that has haall kind of electrical issues because of water coming in from the leaky sunroof,and draining down the a pillar and getting to the BCM.
Now the sunroof has been siliconed and so no water is coming in.
Now the question,I replaced the BCM with a preprogrammed unit,and went through the 30 min passlock system relearn and the car wouldn't start.
Did it several times and still nothing.
Notice that the crank sensor code along wiht air pump code is on,so the car isnt gonna start with the key.
But if I tried using just the remote start and did the 10 min reset for 30 minutes and the car starts up,but will not start with key.
In the beginning there were 2 codes on the crank sensor and the air pump,both parts were replaced and the codes never shut off,
I think the car is not starting from the key because the crank sensor code is still on,check the fuses and wires for breakage,every problem sight of a ground missing,nothing!
Could you do a video on “repinning” automotive connectors?
Having a similar issue with a 2014 Cruze 1.4T. Differnt symptoms, runs rough at ideal and cold, run smooth when warmed up and at moderate and high RPM. No RPM reading at all on the Tach.
It could.
Where would you have started with code P0336 ? I let my suburban 5.3 sit for about a month or more starting it occasionally. I left the hood cracked the past two weeks because I just added a leveling kit.
When I went to turn it back on it was dead and has probably been dead for at least two weeks. Could this cause the computer to lose memory to the crankshaft sensor? I plan on researching more and your video certainly is a great start to diagnosing my issue. I think the thing I am going to hate the most about this is having to take off the starter. That's a pretty crappy task. My suburban is an 08' z71 I wonder if they have changed the location of these sensors since. I doubt it though.
Let me know how you would have done this alternatively with code P0336 instead of P0335.
on a P0336 I would probably just start with a Crank Sensor bypass and verify consistency of my own Input to determine electrical or mechanical right off the bat.
@@SchrodingersBox I will try that. The engine light/code went away yesterday. My suburban has over 300k miles and needs to be inspected thoroughly.
Very good. What I am trying to figure out is how to identify a crank sensor problem in a Holley Terminator X. The car has an intermitent stall or bog at WOT only. Off the line of while cruising.
What is your signal voltage? That’s the very first step.
Thanks Matt !
Great job. Watched whole video. Because I had new connector replaced. They are saying it's my Reluctor and Crankshaft. Does the engine has to be pulled for that?
Yes it would.
I have possibly an issue with crank or cam sensor. My 2006 Silverado stalls after idling for approx 10-13 min. Every time. I’ve driven it and runs fine but still cuts off as if someone turned the ignition. No bucking no loss of power or anything out of the ordinary. It’s as if it cuts off once it’s reached operating temp. I replaced crank sensor still same issue. Was thinking to replace cam sensor as well see if it fixes but not sure if I should start with doing a relearn on crank sensor?
A relearn is strictly for the misfire counting calibration. It had nothing to do with its normal function at all.
Instead of doing a relearn, just check the signal voltage instead and see if it’s faulty.
@@SchrodingersBox ok will do that thank you!
Nice job Matt!
Hey I checked on my car and it's not a wiring issue. What would be the problem?
lol. you pulling my leg!!! good to see you back. been a while!!!
This was fantastic!
Glad you enjoyed it!!
Hi, I would to start off thanking you for the great work that you do. You are my go to guy. i have lean so much from you. that i have try to become a 2% and not one of those 98% that you love so much. If i may .I would like to ask you for some advise. The car in question is a 1995 Toyota tercel. Which every once in a while stall while driving. when you press the brake or turn on the radio, headlights, AC anything electrico. after a few days it return to normal and works fine. During which time i have check For shorted or open wires, Alt outputs with and without a load and everything check out within spec.
My very econical scanner is very limited in the amount of information that i get from the car. The code that i was able to get is a PO335 ( crankshaft position sensor A circuit ) and a PO401. i dont want change the crankshaft position sensor , Without finding the real cause of the problem. do you belive the crankshaft sensor would affect all the other electrico loads. Thanking you inadvance for any directions that you can afford me in fixing this issue.
it is pretty clear you have intermittent loss of crank signal. Your best bet is to do a crank sensor bypass by grounding the signal wire several times to see if there is any inconsistency in response. if there isn’t- I would change the crank sensor.
Helloy car has the same problem i changed new sensors and the code still comes up and i have code p
P0335 FOR FAULTY or damaged key
Will this problem also trip reduced power mode? My Yukon 6.0L is experiencing P0336 intermittent and after warm up. Then a very noticeable clunking sound, runs extremely rough and goes into reduced power mode. I then turn it off, restart and I’m good to go for a day or so
No- a cam or crank sensor issue will not affect power. it will affect engine running at all
For the love of a woman. Great work Mat.
My son car have the same problem, I not mechanic but I have an electronics background.
I have oscilloscopes and multimeters.
Mechanic change the Crankshaft sensor 3 times, is imposible to fail 3 times.
Do you know where I can find this connector or let me know the terminals part number?
Any help will be appreciate
Thanks in Advance.
Excellent as always Yes mechanical is mostly visual while electrical is theory and practice and the repair usually takes less time Matt your vids always make me think before doing By the way have u ever had an erratic problem caused by a wire that was stretched? CHEERS
This guy does not suck