@saggin 1 SWAT teams also have modern fully automatic rifles and submachine guns too. 99% of people cannot get those weapons unless your a class III dealer and have an SOT.
What I love most about this process is the revelation of just how much bondo was used on some of these cars. That shiny paint is often hiding a LOT of bodywork sins.
This is far superior to media blasting IMHO. I had this done to the frame of my 68 Camaro. Then powder coating. I tell you that when you're starting with a perfect powder coated frame, I don't know if it's just a psychological trick or if it is real, but it makes working on the rest of the car so much easier. Doing brakes and fuel lines and all the other things that go on the frame when it looks like it just came from the factory is pure joy to work on. The suspension goes on better, the rear end...it just builds from there.
Superior? Can you elaborate please because I don't want to piss on any bbq hear but what happens to the rear of the sills and areas you cannot coat? As if a blaster can hit it so can a spray gun. What's next paint dipping to catch all the areas the spray gun cannot reach?
@@I_like_turtles_67 I did a full body off restoration, so I mean what's there when the body comes off. So frame with the unibody is basically a subframe. Most people don't realize that so I just kept it simple. But good catch.
Why was a full immersion in a neutralizing solution not necessary? Did you rely on high pressure spray to get into every seam and joint? Just curious 🍺
Having been in this business in the early years of paint/rust removal I'll try to add a few more details from my experiences. The first "dip" is not really a hot bath but a chemical make up of alkaline products to dissolve the paint. The reason for the hot dip is to loosen the body filler, grease and to expand the metal causing more of the alkaline paint remover to penetrate in and under the finished coat. This was easy until a paint called Emron, I think, was invented in the 70's or so. That paint was not a paint but more of a plastic so to remove Emron small scratches were applied to the body and parts to get under the almost non destructible Emron so the alkaline would dissolve the primer which would cause the Emron to break away. And that is why the video shows large chunks of paint - Emron - breaking loose from the bear metal. And it had to be removed by a forceful mechanical spray as also shown. My system didn't do that as the paint was dissolved. And my hot tank was only around 120 to 125. The next step was to dip the body into and acid based bath. Both tanks are alkaline and acid based..not a pure concentrate. That stage cause the surface rust to dissolve. This also opened up the metal pores making the bare metal easy rusted again so the body went directly back into the alkaline tank for neutralize the acid base and assist in closing the metal pores. After and hour or so the body was removed then high pressure washed with a high pressure water pump to remove as much as the left over stuff as possible. The seams were especially flushed as much as possible. The body was then set out in the sun followed by an oil/water base spray which held off surface rust for a few days until the owner could pick up the body/parts. Still, the owners were instructed to pour/spray pain in all the seams so coat the metal then clean with metal etch and apply a primer ASAP. I never had any problem with lead seams. The biggest problem is people would bring entire cars to me and want me to dip the whole thing. And they did not want to take off the trim or the doors, ect and did not remove any pot metal which would have been damaged. It was a fun business which produced some high profile cars of all nature.
I am purchasing a new diesel truck ( wish me luck, I'll need it ! ) and I'm wondering if I should spray the frame and inside body panels with something to prevent rust. I've looked at Fluid Film but it looks like it would make a sticky brown mess of everything so I'm wondering about using an oil , perhaps automatic trans fluid or diesel fuel. Or there are companies like CRC, Blaster, or WD40 that make rust inhibitors . Any thoughts ?
@@johnmazza9432 You can't stop rust, only delay it. I'd clean the frame then prime the inside rails, heavy coat of industrial paint with an over coat of an oil based coating. All this is to be applied by pouring into the frame rail s while rotating the frame. Coating everything inside is your friend.
@@georgecaton5430 It's a new truck. It already is painted. And I'm not doing a frame off restoration here. I was just thinking that the way to prevent rust is by sealing out the water and oxygen and the best way to do that is with some sort of oil, not a paint.
@@johnmazza9432 Oddly enough rustoleum has fish oil in it and that greatly helps the metal get protected from the elements. I've use it for years in places that are structural.
@@SqueakyHinge Yes, I've heard that too. It's why rustoleum doesn't dry very hard. But it still won't seep and creep into crevices to prevent moisture and air from getting to them. I'm inclined to use automatic trans fluid because I believe it won't hurt rubber and plastic. Might have to spray it once a month .
Later in the video you can see they have both that and a pressure washer nozzle. He probably was trying to show how easy it is to come off with little pressure
TH-camrs watch how to videos on keeping people’s attention and the royalty free hype music is part of the formula. It’s sad. Jump cuts make me physically ill.
I did that once on a GTO. Never again! That solution gets into all of the pinch welds. I don't care how much you flush it you can never get it all out. It will end up reacting to your paint later on. I spent a long time chasing the problems from this. There are many ways to attempt the rust and damage exposure. Out of all of them that I have used, this is my least favorite.
Right! Dam I knew a guy who did this as well. At a company I use to work at. Eeh!! It looked really nice. We were amazed but, where the welds, seams, and panel contact points are. Started to bubble up once painted. At first the finish came out nice. Then in a day it bubble up, the paint looked like it had tiger stripe and, fish eyes. And on some areas the paint dropped. It looked like over spray. Some panels started to chalk It was horrible.
I have had the best luck with blasting. I use sand not soda. If you don't neutralize the soda your paint peels off in sheets later. I stay away from large flat panels like roofs, trunks, and hoods. I mechanically strip those.
I cannot agree more, this is the way to go. One little point : after an acid dip like this, if you want really protect your frame in a effective way, it's better to do also a cataphoresis process. During the acid dip, you strip down ALL the protective layers on a metal surface, even in the hidden places. Without protecting with another dip, the risk is to have the frame protected in some parts and not in (hidden) others.
I own a blasting company and prefer to use crushed glass on any car/truck body. Leaves a great profile for primer and it easily removes rust, paint, bondo etc. There are pros and cons with any processes you choose and I've tried them all over the years. But I always come back to the crush glass. There was a place not to far from me that acid dipped but they didn't take all the steps like the company you used. Looks like you picked a good place to get your car done.
Once it's painted I would spray Fluid Film in every nook and cranny, rockers, inside doors, bottom of quarter panels, any hidden spots that you can't paint.
@@mmjnice97 The only thing that I know of that's better for protecting metal from rust (in a spray can) is NAPA's spray lube for open gears. I spayed a crankshaft, let it dry, set it outside for five years, washed it, and absolutely no rust.
@@1SixpenceFan I undercoat all my vehicles every fall with fluid film before winter up in ohio.. all my vehicles underbody look brand new.. every mechanic that works on my cars are super Impressed!
I've done Mustang restoration for 50 years, the downside of doing this process is all the metal that's sealed up like your rockers and cowl, is now bare metal and no way to coat it. If you choose to use this process, then find a company that can dip the car in EDP coating just like the factory
@@cpistocco most people don't realize they will have tons of raw steel afterwords. There are companies that can dip them in the protection coating they need.
Next best option is to use an undercoat gun with epoxy followed with a cavity wax after paint and before reassembly. With the right attachments you can get in most areas. Drill small access holes if needed. Most people are just too lazy to do this.
The body should have been dipped in the rust inhibitor as well as the small parts, if you don't you will end up with a lot of places with bare metal that you can't paint or prime, in fact the car should also be dipped in a primer/sealer bath to insure it won't rust...
Wow! Pretty solid 67 stang. Many mustang's that old reveal a lot of rust damage when removed from acid dipping. I even saw one occasion where the car came out the owner was extreamly disappointed to learn how bad his vehicle had a multitude of rust issues and was going to need extensive metal reconstruction. He was actually contemplating starting with an entire different car to restore.
@@quietman2672 The fact that it's plural is somehow shocking to me. Apparently there's a whole world of giant acid vats I've been entirely ignorant of my entire life. How bizarre lol
Its always is when you buy a supposed "restored ones" . I rather ride my barn fibd rat rod where I know behind the old paint and patina its solid metal. Plus Is cheap.
@@curierfromxibalba1155 , my rat rod is exactly the same, solid, never welded, but, I can see she is all original metal, plus she is used as my daily, she’s no trailer queen. Saying that, I do like to see the concours examples too. I appreciate all cars and the owners enthusiasm even if it’s not my flavour, I still admire the hard work, dedication and enthusiasm that go in to keeping there pride and joy alive
I was in the restoration business for 25 years and I told all my customers to have the body media blasted. I preferred media blast because dipping destroys all the original lead filling applied at the factory and any quality lead repairs done afterwards. Most of the time shops just replace the dissolved lead with plastic which is a shame.
Those guys that worked with lead were true artists, but now it's a dying art, and they're getting extinct just like the dinosaurs. It probably was the lead that killed them.
And super stock to lighten the car up... But I've never heard of it being done to a resto project and I would think it was a bad idea for a car that you wanted to preserve because one bad side effect of it is the cars that were acid dipped ive ever seen were usually rusted beyond worth fixing because acid is corrosive and theres gonna be bits of it that'll get left behind in all the nooks and crannies no matter how well you think you've washed it off after
I watched another company doing this earlier today and they charged $2500 and it takes about 3-4 weeks. I was surprised that your floor board weren't rotted out. There is also a Dry Ice treatment that does everything from underneath the car to the vinyl door coverings.
@@boxoffisa I liked the insider video because they showed more detail of how the procedure is done and it had video angles in hard spots to film areas where paint and rust can hide. They showed the car being lifted and lowered many times The dry ice treatment was interesting because they didn't need waste drains in the floor the only mess was paint rust and grease.
Have done Restoration for many years. Dipping is good just make sure you get into the cracks clean good because it will seep. Good luck with your build
Very cool very interesting don't forget to get either a por-15 or some kind of paint down inside the quarters rockers and the cowl panel under the wipers and the inside of the front and rear frame rail box I don't know the best way to get paint in those concealed areas but it certainly needs to be done
This is way cool! The process is much longer than you'd think it would be. But I like that it's getting everything off all those nooks and crannies that would be nearly impossible to strip by hand.
@@d4rkhound388 I work in the plating/metal finishing industry and it’s no joke. I heard a story from an old timer about a guy that fell in a acid tank. I believe it was a muriatic acid to strip chrome plating. From what I hear his skin was melting off the bone and he was begging people to kill him.
@@RobertSmith-le8wp Yeah it's truly some horrific crap, which is why i still cringe that people show a lack of safety around the stuff, like call me crazy but when i see these "Acid workshops" it annoys me there doesn't seem to be any protective screen around, like as that mustang was being lowered in what if by some bad luck the chain kinked and dropped it a little, that'd displace enough liquid for it to potentially splash at you. "Stay smart and stay safe!"
It wouldn't be quite so bad if whomever edited it could maintain an even audio level. Turn it up to hear commentary, then get blasted by excessive music volume. Turn volume down to something bearable, then couldn't hear the narration. Amateurish
I know right. On what planet do car guys wanna listen to dance music while watching a vid that deals with car restoration? These trendies are toxic to this world. Gotta be a leftist, nobody is that clueless except the Nazi leftists.
@@MussaKZN No quite. Add caustic soda (NaOH) to chlorhydric acid (HCl) and you get salt water (H2O + NaCl). Those non-water parts can be problematic, to say nothing of all the metal, rust, filler, primer and paint that must be dissolved in those acid tanks. Their waste treatment must be something indeed.
@@amaurylaunay “Not quite” “Semantics” It’s TH-cam Not Science class! I know that when industrial processes are followed and waste water is sent down the drain is it only needs to be (water) Maybe not drinkable water but water! As for the solid mater a triple interceptor will be the only process to remove the solid waste. But anyway! Water!
I'd imagine they have a contractor or an in-house water treatment station that makes it suitable to be released into sewage. As for the solids, Into the landfill they probably go!
I used to go to a place called Metal Rehab Technologies in Arlington Texas, I would take the trunk lids for my 61 and 62 Continentals, fuel tanks etc. They did great work. Huge vats for dipping, and they would epoxy prime afterward. They didn't survive the 2008 downturn. I really miss that awesome resource.
I was talking to an older wiser guy about bodywork and asked him his opinion on this. He said it’s great but it strips everything from everywhere and a lot of those places you’ll never be able to get paint back onto again so you’ll be left with bare metal in a bunch of nooks and crannies
He is correct, and the acid eats steel if submerged that long. Plus after stripping raw metal, parts must be dipped in caustic soda or it will rust because all coatings have been removed
Now we have rotating body stands. You have to pore primer into boxed in areas and rotate the car. And for all the blasters out there. Have you ever TRYED to get all the sand exc. Out of a car.
Be wary of the acid dipping process. A friend of mine had his Jaguar e-type (xke) done years ago. It was a similar process and when the car was finished and back on the road acid started to seep out of every seam ruining a very expensive paint job.
Who did the acid dip? A reputable vendor, or a back alley owner of a vat of acid? I have yet to see one verified, first-person scenario of "acid seeping out of every seam" story. It's always someone's buddy, or a guy someone met.
If no neutral the acid. And don't dip after acid dip. Will keep rusting more ...... 100 perfect dip again anti rust protection. Or use eltrontic sterile the chassis. Used on trucks in snow. Will need a positive charge for the rest of cars life. Take care guys
@@richardt6980 There is also something called electro priming where they dipped the chassis/body in to a primer solution that is electrically plated onto it, it's also costly like acid dipping.
How were the insides of the A pillars, B pillars, and other areas where the high pressure water couldn't get to treated and rust proofing measures can't be verified as completed dealt with? Very curious as to future rust/corrosion processes dealt with and eliminated. Thanks.
Operated that business for 4 years, would get cars in various conditions of bad panels cut off prior to being dropped off for dipping, you could see inside those cavities , a pillars , roof structures, boxed in areas, there is nothing for rust protection from the factory in those areas, so none is needed , especially when you consider the fact that these restored cars are going to spend the rest of there lives in doors and only come out when it dry anyway
@@tonylewis8209 I'd think some cavity wax wouldn't be a bad idea in some of those hidden areas. The ol 99 I've had since 01 still drips cavity wax out of some of the door drains on a hot day. When i started snooping around in the hidden areas it was still nice in there.
It actually looks like a good shell to start with. Was kind of expecting ~ bought some bondo and it came with a car. 😂 Cool video bro. Good luck with the build. ✌N ❤
@@michaelbaker8284 I was just curious as I have been trying different products. The strongest and quickest working I have found is On Off hull cleaner which is a combination of acids. Sold at marine stores and must be used outside or with a respirator and ventilation
Acid dipping is for making the car lighter they use to do it for race cars way back when they mentioned it in a movie called Highway Men the 66 or 67 cuda was acid dipped
I've never heard of doing a acid bath before. I've only seen people material blast the cars. I'm learning something. I'm subscribing to your channel cuz I'm a Ford man and the Fastback is one of my dream cars.
@Jim Bartz I would assume the acid pit is filtered/cleaned...then tested to ensure proper acidity...then again, maybe you're right, why worry about it.
In the 1980s we completely stripped a London double decker bus and had all the panels, fenders other parts dipped and it was a beautiful job once it was finished.
Yeah I really don’t see why they lift it that way, the car was never designed to be lifted from there and the subtle warping of the chassis could be a disaster.
Never had a greater urge than to tell the guy with the pressure washer "Don't forget into that area, do that little cavity, do that little area too, etc, etc"
I could just watch that high pressure spray taking off the sludge for hours
Same here!
Omg me too! That’s super cool, I’ve never seen that process before! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
@@kareygregerson3423 Right!? So cool!
@@ClassicNation I think the back driver side of my car would have melted away if I had done that! The doctor job someone did isn’t so great 😅
It was a hose bib nothing high pressure about it
0:58 High Pressure Cleaning: dude with a garden hose.
Ha! I know! The video captured the rinse prior to the high pressure cleaning.
At first I thought all this time I’ve had a “high pressure” gun on my front lawn all this time. 😂
really man..
The water pressure coming out of the hose was high, concentrated. Much more than a residential pressure, upwards 100Psi, which hurts.
@saggin 1 SWAT teams also have modern fully automatic rifles and submachine guns too. 99% of people cannot get those weapons unless your a class III dealer and have an SOT.
What I love most about this process is the revelation of just how much bondo was used on some of these cars. That shiny paint is often hiding a LOT of bodywork sins.
A magnet reveals all the bondo with paint still on the car.
That has to be the strongest man in the world, pressure clean with a hand held nozzle. Amazing
Wys
you’re just weak
It doesn’t seem “high pressure” to me. It’s a garden sprayer.
Lol underrated meme
You're soft man
This is far superior to media blasting IMHO. I had this done to the frame of my 68 Camaro. Then powder coating. I tell you that when you're starting with a perfect powder coated frame, I don't know if it's just a psychological trick or if it is real, but it makes working on the rest of the car so much easier. Doing brakes and fuel lines and all the other things that go on the frame when it looks like it just came from the factory is pure joy to work on. The suspension goes on better, the rear end...it just builds from there.
I like in Dallas, Tx where can I get my frame acid drip at 🤔
Superior? Can you elaborate please because I don't want to piss on any bbq hear but what happens to the rear of the sills and areas you cannot coat? As if a blaster can hit it so can a spray gun. What's next paint dipping to catch all the areas the spray gun cannot reach?
That camaro has a front clip. Not a full frame. Assuming you're talking about the original unibody construction.
@@I_like_turtles_67 I did a full body off restoration, so I mean what's there when the body comes off. So frame with the unibody is basically a subframe. Most people don't realize that so I just kept it simple. But good catch.
Why was a full immersion in a neutralizing solution not necessary? Did you rely on high pressure spray to get into every seam and joint? Just curious 🍺
Having been in this business in the early years of paint/rust removal I'll try to add a few more details from my experiences. The first "dip" is not really a hot bath but a chemical make up of alkaline products to dissolve the paint. The reason for the hot dip is to loosen the body filler, grease and to expand the metal causing more of the alkaline paint remover to penetrate in and under the finished coat. This was easy until a paint called Emron, I think, was invented in the 70's or so. That paint was not a paint but more of a plastic so to remove Emron small scratches were applied to the body and parts to get under the almost non destructible Emron so the alkaline would dissolve the primer which would cause the Emron to break away. And that is why the video shows large chunks of paint - Emron - breaking loose from the bear metal. And it had to be removed by a forceful mechanical spray as also shown. My system didn't do that as the paint was dissolved. And my hot tank was only around 120 to 125. The next step was to dip the body into and acid based bath. Both tanks are alkaline and acid based..not a pure concentrate. That stage cause the surface rust to dissolve. This also opened up the metal pores making the bare metal easy rusted again so the body went directly back into the alkaline tank for neutralize the acid base and assist in closing the metal pores. After and hour or so the body was removed then high pressure washed with a high pressure water pump to remove as much as the left over stuff as possible. The seams were especially flushed as much as possible. The body was then set out in the sun followed by an oil/water base spray which held off surface rust for a few days until the owner could pick up the body/parts. Still, the owners were instructed to pour/spray pain in all the seams so coat the metal then clean with metal etch and apply a primer ASAP. I never had any problem with lead seams. The biggest problem is people would bring entire cars to me and want me to dip the whole thing. And they did not want to take off the trim or the doors, ect and did not remove any pot metal which would have been damaged. It was a fun business which produced some high profile cars of all nature.
I am purchasing a new diesel truck ( wish me luck, I'll need it ! ) and I'm wondering if I should spray the frame and inside body panels with something to prevent rust. I've looked at Fluid Film but it looks like it would make a sticky brown mess of everything so I'm wondering about using an oil , perhaps automatic trans fluid or diesel fuel. Or there are companies like CRC, Blaster, or WD40 that make rust inhibitors . Any thoughts ?
@@johnmazza9432 You can't stop rust, only delay it. I'd clean the frame then prime the inside rails, heavy coat of industrial paint with an over coat of an oil based coating. All this is to be applied by pouring into the frame rail s while rotating the frame. Coating everything inside is your friend.
@@georgecaton5430 It's a new truck. It already is painted. And I'm not doing a frame off restoration here. I was just thinking that the way to prevent rust is by sealing out the water and oxygen and the best way to do that is with some sort of oil, not a paint.
@@johnmazza9432 Oddly enough rustoleum has fish oil in it and that greatly helps the metal get protected from the elements. I've use it for years in places that are structural.
@@SqueakyHinge Yes, I've heard that too. It's why rustoleum doesn't dry very hard. But it still won't seep and creep into crevices to prevent moisture and air from getting to them. I'm inclined to use automatic trans fluid because I believe it won't hurt rubber and plastic. Might have to spray it once a month .
this is how you handle classic cars. Every Mustang, every Charger, Barracuda etc. in that bad condition deserves a better life!
"High pressure wash." That's a water hose and spray nozzle. haha
😂 I thought the same thing
Later in the video you can see they have both that and a pressure washer nozzle. He probably was trying to show how easy it is to come off with little pressure
Took the words right out of my mouth lol
True. Still higher pressure than your standard household hose though. They probably have a booster pump for that.
If you look closely they are air powered hose lmao
I think I must have gotten some of that acid in my ears...or is it the music.
Raise the volume to understand what is going on, and you immediately get punished with that trash playing at 11
TH-camrs watch how to videos on keeping people’s attention and the royalty free hype music is part of the formula. It’s sad. Jump cuts make me physically ill.
acid rock?
I did that once on a GTO. Never again! That solution gets into all of the pinch welds. I don't care how much you flush it you can never get it all out. It will end up reacting to your paint later on. I spent a long time chasing the problems from this. There are many ways to attempt the rust and damage exposure. Out of all of them that I have used, this is my least favorite.
Right! Dam I knew a guy who did this as well. At a company I use to work at. Eeh!! It looked really nice. We were amazed but, where the welds, seams, and panel contact points are. Started to bubble up once painted. At first the finish came out nice. Then in a day it bubble up, the paint looked like it had tiger stripe and, fish eyes. And on some areas the paint dropped. It looked like over spray. Some panels started to chalk It was horrible.
Yes the rust in seems and pinch welds is an issue very difficult if not impossible to fix
What do you recommend the most
I have had the best luck with blasting. I use sand not soda. If you don't neutralize the soda your paint peels off in sheets later. I stay away from large flat panels like roofs, trunks, and hoods. I mechanically strip those.
Sounds like an absolute nightmare.
I cannot agree more, this is the way to go. One little point : after an acid dip like this, if you want really protect your frame in a effective way, it's better to do also a cataphoresis process. During the acid dip, you strip down ALL the protective layers on a metal surface, even in the hidden places. Without protecting with another dip, the risk is to have the frame protected in some parts and not in (hidden) others.
That high pressure rinse gun looks spot on like an everyday garden hose. Interesting.
My thoughts exactly high pressure my ass 😂
That's one of the most beautiful Mustangs ever made and that green is my favorite so it's definitely worth it. Love the process
Could have bought a new one for what you paid to have all of that done! Look it up they sell them new
This green is awesome, great choice!
I own a blasting company and prefer to use crushed glass on any car/truck body. Leaves a great profile for primer and it easily removes rust, paint, bondo etc. There are pros and cons with any processes you choose and I've tried them all over the years. But I always come back to the crush glass.
There was a place not to far from me that acid dipped but they didn't take all the steps like the company you used. Looks like you picked a good place to get your car done.
Anything that time consuming can’t be cheap. Seriously thorough way to be sure. Can’t wait to watch the whole process
Once it's painted I would spray Fluid Film in every nook and cranny, rockers, inside doors, bottom of quarter panels, any hidden spots that you can't paint.
Oh zinc dip the whole shell, harder to find places that do that now though cause it’s a health and safety nightmare with the fumes
Fluid film is awesome stuff man!!
+1 for Fluid Film
@@mmjnice97 The only thing that I know of that's better for protecting metal from rust (in a spray can) is NAPA's spray lube for open gears.
I spayed a crankshaft, let it dry, set it outside for five years, washed it, and absolutely no rust.
@@1SixpenceFan I undercoat all my vehicles every fall with fluid film before winter up in ohio.. all my vehicles underbody look brand new.. every mechanic that works on my cars are super Impressed!
I've done Mustang restoration for 50 years, the downside of doing this process is all the metal that's sealed up like your rockers and cowl, is now bare metal and no way to coat it. If you choose to use this process, then find a company that can dip the car in EDP coating just like the factory
I agree wholeheartedly. There will be many problems in the future. I have been in auto body business for 35 years.
@@cpistocco most people don't realize they will have tons of raw steel afterwords. There are companies that can dip them in the protection coating they need.
Next best option is to use an undercoat gun with epoxy followed with a cavity wax after paint and before reassembly. With the right attachments you can get in most areas. Drill small access holes if needed. Most people are just too lazy to do this.
at the very end of video they are clearly saying they did that.
@@banjominer9682 Wrong, you better watch the video again. Unless the body is completely dipped in EDP all that enclosed metal will rust.
The body should have been dipped in the rust inhibitor as well as the small parts, if you don't you will end up with a lot of places with bare metal that you can't paint or prime, in fact the car should also be dipped in a primer/sealer bath to insure it won't rust...
There’s a phosphate treatment that’s applied at ambient temperature.
Where can I get a car dipped in primer ?.
@@Autobodyscotty Should be at the same place you get a car dipped to remove rust, if not then they are not a good place to go to....
Watch 5:11, you were not paying attention
@@jamescaneda9515 how come phosphate treatment would do at high temperatures? Rather they can prefer aircraft stripper to remove it off.
Wow! Pretty solid 67 stang. Many mustang's that old reveal a lot of rust damage when removed from acid dipping. I even saw one occasion where the car came out the owner was extreamly disappointed to learn how bad his vehicle had a multitude of rust issues and was going to need extensive metal reconstruction. He was actually contemplating starting with an entire different car to restore.
Very cool to get a peek at the process. Thanks for sharing this part of your project's journey. Looking forward to seeing more.
That is a James Bond villain level vat of acid. I've never seen anything like that in the real world lol
Any factory that has a passivation process has tanks like that.
I’ve worked in factories with acid vats 10 times bigger .
@@quietman2672 The fact that it's plural is somehow shocking to me. Apparently there's a whole world of giant acid vats I've been entirely ignorant of my entire life. How bizarre lol
When most people sit back and cry as they realise that there cherished classic they thought was solid is actual a pile of scrap
Its always is when you buy a supposed "restored ones" .
I rather ride my barn fibd rat rod where I know behind the old paint and patina its solid metal. Plus Is cheap.
@@curierfromxibalba1155 , my rat rod is exactly the same, solid, never welded, but, I can see she is all original metal, plus she is used as my daily, she’s no trailer queen. Saying that, I do like to see the concours examples too. I appreciate all cars and the owners enthusiasm even if it’s not my flavour, I still admire the hard work, dedication and enthusiasm that go in to keeping there pride and joy alive
Says the dude that can't weld for shit.
@@BlueMacGyver spot welding isnt real welding lolol
I saw a car come out of the coustic Ready-Strip tank once , and all that was left was a dash board , window frames , door jams and floor braces .
I was in the restoration business for 25 years and I told all my customers to have the body media blasted. I preferred media blast because dipping destroys all the original lead filling applied at the factory and any quality lead repairs done afterwards. Most of the time shops just replace the dissolved lead with plastic which is a shame.
Those guys that worked with lead were true artists, but now it's a dying art, and they're getting extinct just like the dinosaurs. It probably was the lead that killed them.
Lead is no longer necessary in this day and age, just weld a metal patch in those areas of the Mustang.
not to mention it gets in areas where you can't reach easily so... rust.
@@OEMPlus Exactly 👍
Will acid dissolve lead?
Damn that is beautiful just the process alone is so worth it. That pony is going to look awesome.
Very interesting to see the process
You have some serious dedication, that’s amazing!
It gives me mad max vibes seeing it all rusted and just being a shell
"Classic Nation"
*HEAVY DUBSTEP*
All jokes aside thats a seriously sick car. I'm jellyyyyy
In the early days of the Funny Car in drag racing(before composite bodies) the acid dip was used to lighten body weight of cars.
Trans Am Mustangs too. 😉
And Pro Stock . Old school technique.
And super stock to lighten the car up... But I've never heard of it being done to a resto project and I would think it was a bad idea for a car that you wanted to preserve because one bad side effect of it is the cars that were acid dipped ive ever seen were usually rusted beyond worth fixing because acid is corrosive and theres gonna be bits of it that'll get left behind in all the nooks and crannies no matter how well you think you've washed it off after
Great project. I myself worked on a '71 Vw ghia and the most rewarding part was removing the rust and priming.
I watched another company doing this earlier today and they charged $2500 and it takes about 3-4 weeks. I was surprised that your floor board weren't rotted out. There is also a Dry Ice treatment that does everything from underneath the car to the vinyl door coverings.
Which one do you think is better. This video’s method or the one you watched at insider?
@@boxoffisa I liked the insider video because they showed more detail of how the procedure is done and it had video angles in hard spots to film areas where paint and rust can hide. They showed the car being lifted and lowered many times The dry ice treatment was interesting because they didn't need waste drains in the floor the only mess was paint rust and grease.
@@teslarawks1673 yeah. The insider video was better and I think they did a better job. Their work was clean as well.
What alkaline products are used?
Have done Restoration for many years. Dipping is good just make sure you get into the cracks clean good because it will seep. Good luck with your build
What alkaline products are used? Caustic soda?
Dip a car from the northeast for 2 days and you won’t pull anything out of the tank but those chains it was hanging from
Facts 😂😂😂😂
Sweet car even on it's worst day. I totally love 67 Mustangs with their nasty side oiler high performance engine!! 😍
i cannot believe how good that stang looked after step 3, thought it would be a rust bucket.
You didn’t see the chassis rails then ? Or the floor ?
Please for the sake of everything holy, could you PLEASE not say "Stang".
Then we will not say "Challie", "The Dizzy", "Maro" and "Za".
@@AB-80X shut up
@@thenegus5469
Make me...
@@AB-80X What the hell is a Dizzy
Very cool very interesting don't forget to get either a por-15 or some kind of paint down inside the quarters rockers and the cowl panel under the wipers and the inside of the front and rear frame rail box I don't know the best way to get paint in those concealed areas but it certainly needs to be done
Turn down the music!
What?!
Lol. but I agree.
@@ClassicNation love your channel it's just when you are playing your music in your time lapse the music is just way too loud
@Jim Bartz Hey Jim! Turn the volume down on your phone/computer. Problem solved. I give you two thumbs down for being a terrible problem solver.
@@nicholaidasanernst Not the listener's job to modulate volume; it is the videographer's job.
Most beautiful muscle car ever built
I can’t believe how different it looks!
It's definitely not green anymore!
Looks so good in green but looks good
High pressure spraying?
I have garden hose too.
Bro it looks so good...Im not a mustang guy but this fastback is sweet
They call it an Acid bath but really it’s just the amazing work of pine-sol!
This is way cool! The process is much longer than you'd think it would be. But I like that it's getting everything off all those nooks and crannies that would be nearly impossible to strip by hand.
Fun Fact: The Joker also owns and operates this business
I know, I got a private tour
The joker?
@@carlossantino4763 The Joker origin story (DC) is that he fell in to a vat of acid.
@@d4rkhound388 I work in the plating/metal finishing industry and it’s no joke. I heard a story from an old timer about a guy that fell in a acid tank. I believe it was a muriatic acid to strip chrome plating. From what I hear his skin was melting off the bone and he was begging people to kill him.
@@RobertSmith-le8wp Yeah it's truly some horrific crap, which is why i still cringe that people show a lack of safety around the stuff, like call me crazy but when i see these "Acid workshops" it annoys me there doesn't seem to be any protective screen around, like as that mustang was being lowered in what if by some bad luck the chain kinked and dropped it a little, that'd displace enough liquid for it to potentially splash at you.
"Stay smart and stay safe!"
Great video. Informative plus solid filming. Thanks
I thoroughly enjoyed learning about the academic process, however, I was completely annoyed by that ridiculous music.
It wouldn't be quite so bad if whomever edited it could maintain an even audio level. Turn it up to hear commentary, then get blasted by excessive music volume. Turn volume down to something bearable, then couldn't hear the narration. Amateurish
@@verbotn Exactly!
what's the track name btw?
I know right. On what planet do car guys wanna listen to dance music while watching a vid that deals with car restoration? These trendies are toxic to this world. Gotta be a leftist, nobody is that clueless except the Nazi leftists.
@@drewjohnson4794 what?
That quarter was nuts!
Can't help but wondering how they handle the waste water there...
I wondered the same exact thing! Straight poison going down the drain if it's not collected and treated properly
Add a base to an acid you get water!
@@MussaKZN No quite. Add caustic soda (NaOH) to chlorhydric acid (HCl) and you get salt water (H2O + NaCl). Those non-water parts can be problematic, to say nothing of all the metal, rust, filler, primer and paint that must be dissolved in those acid tanks. Their waste treatment must be something indeed.
@@amaurylaunay
“Not quite”
“Semantics”
It’s TH-cam
Not Science class!
I know that when industrial processes are followed and waste water is sent down the drain is it only needs to be (water)
Maybe not drinkable water but water!
As for the solid mater a triple interceptor will be the only process to remove the solid waste.
But anyway! Water!
I'd imagine they have a contractor or an in-house water treatment station that makes it suitable to be released into sewage. As for the solids, Into the landfill they probably go!
Very cool to see it come back to almost brand new looking sheet metal
I've dipped acid a few times, too. LOL
I used to go to a place called Metal Rehab Technologies in Arlington Texas, I would take the trunk lids for my 61 and 62 Continentals, fuel tanks etc. They did great work. Huge vats for dipping, and they would epoxy prime afterward. They didn't survive the 2008 downturn. I really miss that awesome resource.
This is the only proper way to do a reputable build. It absolutely makes the car new again.
I was talking to an older wiser guy about bodywork and asked him his opinion on this. He said it’s great but it strips everything from everywhere and a lot of those places you’ll never be able to get paint back onto again so you’ll be left with bare metal in a bunch of nooks and crannies
He is correct, and the acid eats steel if submerged that long. Plus after stripping raw metal, parts must be dipped in caustic soda or it will rust because all coatings have been removed
Now we have rotating body stands. You have to pore primer into boxed in areas and rotate the car. And for all the blasters out there. Have you ever TRYED to get all the sand exc. Out of a car.
Cool. Looks like a nice canvas to start from.!
Be wary of the acid dipping process. A friend of mine had his Jaguar e-type (xke) done years ago. It was a similar process and when the car was finished and back on the road acid started to seep out of every seam ruining a very expensive paint job.
Who did the acid dip? A reputable vendor, or a back alley owner of a vat of acid? I have yet to see one verified, first-person scenario of "acid seeping out of every seam" story. It's always someone's buddy, or a guy someone met.
It was a reputable company.
@@carl_marks1626 Was the car dipped in E coat after?
What people don’t understand it’s not the acid that seeps back out it’s the paint remover, if not neutralized by the acid
If no neutral the acid. And don't dip after acid dip. Will keep rusting more ...... 100 perfect dip again anti rust protection. Or use eltrontic sterile the chassis. Used on trucks in snow. Will need a positive charge for the rest of cars life. Take care guys
The music made the video truly epic.
Why didnt you use dustless blast?, seem cheaper, faster and also bring great results
acid dipping etches metal on a molecular level, and allows Rust/Corrosion inhibitors, Primer and body filler to adhere to it better
@@Natsumidragneelkim it also removes every molecular rust prevention in the seams and unaccessable panels. good luck in sealing those areas up
@@richardt6980 There is also something called electro priming where they dipped the chassis/body in to a primer solution that is electrically plated onto it, it's also costly like acid dipping.
When you do stuff like this, you really mean business, I didn’t even know this was a thing! Very cool thanks for sharing.
How were the insides of the A pillars, B pillars, and other areas where the high pressure water couldn't get to treated and rust proofing measures can't be verified as completed dealt with? Very curious as to future rust/corrosion processes dealt with and eliminated. Thanks.
Operated that business for 4 years, would get cars in various conditions of bad panels cut off prior to being dropped off for dipping, you could see inside those cavities , a pillars , roof structures, boxed in areas, there is nothing for rust protection from the factory in those areas, so none is needed , especially when you consider the fact that these restored cars are going to spend the rest of there lives in doors and only come out when it dry anyway
@@tonylewis8209
I'd think some cavity wax wouldn't be a bad idea in some of those hidden areas.
The ol 99 I've had since 01 still drips cavity wax out of some of the door drains on a hot day.
When i started snooping around in the hidden areas it was still nice in there.
True, excellent idea 👍
Looks like fun. Can't wait to see the future steps
Some say this technique was invented by al Capone.
Along with concrete shoes
Another perfect ride restored...properly !!!
Hallelujah !!!
Lol @ the "high pressure wash". Next time I'm using my garden hose I'll have to remember that I'm using a "high pressure hose".
Thats a solid shell, no rust holes or anything😎
It actually looks like a good shell to start with.
Was kind of expecting ~ bought some bondo and it came with a car. 😂
Cool video bro.
Good luck with the build.
✌N ❤
Thanks man! I appreciate it!
Beautiful car - can definitely appreciate the process
What acid is used and what chemical are they using for rust prevention after?
It looks like the green phosphoric stuff you can pickup at any autoshop.
@@michaelbaker8284 I was just curious as I have been trying different products. The strongest and quickest working I have found is On Off hull cleaner which is a combination of acids. Sold at marine stores and must be used outside or with a respirator and ventilation
nice to see the paint goes easy with acid and high poresur water
Acid dipping is for making the car lighter they use to do it for race cars way back when they mentioned it in a movie called Highway Men the 66 or 67 cuda was acid dipped
Depends on the acid used, It was the Penske Camaros that were outlawed due to the structural integrity that was so excessively compromised.
I've never heard of doing a acid bath before. I've only seen people material blast the cars. I'm learning something. I'm subscribing to your channel cuz I'm a Ford man and the Fastback is one of my dream cars.
High presser, shows garden hose. 😂
Amazing body shell, so much detail
I assume the acid solution is filtered after each application/usage. My question is, how many times can the acid be used before it needs replaced?
i would ask the french-fry guy at McDonald's the same thing!
@@discmotoslots lmfao
@Jim Bartz I would assume the acid pit is filtered/cleaned...then tested to ensure proper acidity...then again, maybe you're right, why worry about it.
This comment is 9 months pregnant!😱😮😲
In the 1980s we completely stripped a London double decker bus and had all the panels, fenders other parts dipped and it was a beautiful job once it was finished.
That acid looks like the crap that melted the guy from Robocop 1.
Haha, exactly!
😂😂😂
"....helllp meeee..., helllp meeeee,,,"
SPLAT!!
hahaha.... Now I'm gonna go watch that scene
Don’t touch me mann
Never saw this done before. Pretty cool
Looking good brother
Much appreciated!
that is cool, i have allways wonder about how that works. great vid
Looks like your starting with good bones. Never know what you’ll find under paint.
It's decent. I'll definitely need to replace several panels that had rust issues.
JerryH *you're
I did that to my 71 demon best investment i ever did good luck with the project 🍺😀👍
Well I'll be dipped......help me understand ???
Well thats too much.......perfect!
I wonder if he will show the cleaning of his lightning twirler.
Even those this process is relatively expensive to project car builders this is a perfect way to rebuild an older car
After acid dipping how do u seal inside boxed frame rockers ect.
There are spray gun attachments that allow you to paint in long narrow cavities
Long spray gun attachments, followed up by long cavity wax hoses with 360 degree sprayers on the end of them.
I was coming in to ask the exact same thing. Guess there's no need to ask now haha
@@antonm0778 its a spay wand nothing fancy binks make one its called a washdown gun #140B
I like this process, very satisfying....
Like it!!
And I love Mustang, nice car, still nice till today...
Thumbs up from Autotune Indonesia...
Wanna be a solid roof & pillars to carry the whole body weight with that lifting gear !
Yeah I really don’t see why they lift it that way, the car was never designed to be lifted from there and the subtle warping of the chassis could be a disaster.
@@R2D2trashcan spot on👍
Good luck! The end product looks great!
Very cool thank you for sharing.
You bet!
That's wild never seen a vehicle get dipped..thank you
IM NOT A STANG GUY AT ALL BUT WHEN ITS STRIPPED DOWN LIKE THAT YOU CAN REALLY APPRECIATE TH ANGLES ON IT!
OMG I TOTALLY AGREE HOLY COW!
I admire your ambition and wallet!
Zinc dip process next will be the best!
Good stuff, I'll keep this in mind when doing my 70 GTO
Imagine if I used my Karcher k3 instead of a garden hose with minimal pressure.. So satisfying. Let me do it.
I'm impressed that this process doesn't buckle the roof
How much does something like that cost?
Yeah same question here
It's about $2000 just for the shell and additional costs for anything other than that for a car that size.
@@florzellpaschal4405 the advantage is your not losing any metal density though,,if it,s a forever car its worth it though
@@marcperrett662 i only had to pay $125 since my car was already @ bear metal.
@@marcperrett662 I'm surprised any acid dip companies exist at this point. I thought the epa wiped em all out
Never had a greater urge than to tell the guy with the pressure washer "Don't forget into that area, do that little cavity, do that little area too, etc, etc"
1:00 high pressure cleaning, uses garden hose
you have a alot of work a head of you great job by the way