I was sitting here the other day thinking, "Well, I like the idea of using 4x4 posts to raise up the Cattle Panel Greenhouse sides and leaving that vent on the bottom of the wall, but we live in FL and all of that pressure treated lumber we buy rots anyway. How in the world am I going to keep those posts from rotting in a greenhouse?" and I went on to think, "if I had some tar like they used to use, that would keep them from rotting!" And here you come along with the answer I needed! Thank you!
Cutting the top of the post at an angle and treating it it a great idea. Facing the angle to the South is another great idea. Thank you for sharing your knowledge passed down for generations. My Dad was a rancher in Oklahoma and used to grow and cut Bois D'arc trees for fence posts. No treating was needed. They were so dense they would sink if put in water. They would last 50 years or more. It was hard to drive a staple into them when fencing.
This is the same mixture I brushed onto sickle bar mowers and other similar equipment when I worked at a tobacco farm. ~60 years later, the equipment still works fine!
Never thought about the slanted top, pointed south, the oil painted on. I’ve been using used canning lids, or the ends out of cans and a roofing screw to cover the top for years.
Good job . We do this too it works way better if you make sure they are bone dry first . I have a length of split pvc pipe (or an old rain gutter) running back to barrell along by a wall with a slight fall . I just stand posts in it up against wall and all dip oil just runs back into barrel. I will be cutting top at south angle , nice tip , thanks 😊
Awesome idea, I’m trying my hand at a first time cattle operation and am doing the infrastructure right the first time around. Got the first set of posts soaking right now lol
The other day I found two posts that hadn’t been treated in oil that my father put in a few years ago… found them because they’d rotted off at the base!! He’d just grabbed two posts that weren’t treated and planted them in the fence line… the other (treated) posts are still standing. 👍
On your other question about waiting… sorry I can’t get the system to let me answer it… says the comment is not there… No, we don’t wait, we take them dripping right to the field… it’s not enough oil to do any damage to the soil. Usually by the time we get them to the field, they’re pretty drip dried!!
The timing of watching this video I couldn’t be more perfect I’ve been collecting fence posts to build a greenhouse here in there for a year or so I was hoping to find a way to beef up the protection against Rot. Thank you for posting. I’ve been to the Uintas they are beautiful we used to go camping there and there was this place that sold the best beef jerky I’ve ever had in my life they have their own smokehouse right next to the store.
@@CaptainWingnut Yes that’s right. Hmm Texas I’m pretty close to Texas now, I’ll have to do a Internet search for in house made jerky and restaurant. Thanks.
@@CaptainWingnut would this affect the wood strength on say a 6×6 post for a treeless treehouse? if not I love this method, it beats paying $75 a piece for plastic post covers.
@@Thug2u I don’t think there’s any logical reason that this would weaken wood. It keeps water, bacteria, fungus and insect rot at bay, so I believe the wood will retain it’s natural strength. For wood that wouldn’t look good BLACKENED by the used carbon oil, I use new or recycled 30w oil. It gives the wood an oil finished look that is golden.
European farmers have been doing this method for a long time. Oil works like a charm. I don’t use concrete I think gravel and soil is better for a long term.
@@0MoTheG Concrete is optional and expensive. It should never be UNDER the wood. Concrete under the wood traps water and doesn’t let the post drain, then the wood rots. If you use concrete, make sure the bottom of the post is in dirt before pouring in concrete wet or dry. If you’re putting posts in sandy soil, concrete is good as a weight for the post.
Great way to extend the life of your fence post or deck posts. Thanks. With the price of lumber going through the roof. This could be very helpful for the guy or gal that can't afford pressure treated wood or are cutting their own.
I like it because pressure treated lumber is very soft, this keeps the hardness and integrity of the wood, it’s nasty black, but you could use NEW OIL and it would be like golden shellac. Thanks for watching
Hello good sir! I just wanted to take a minute to thank you for making this video I imagine many more that I'll end up watching of yours cuz this one was a just straight to the point not a bunch of yammering on and you showed it and it was a way that it was real easy to understand and you just not going to beat that old America technology, And I'm not as young as I used to be but I sure do wish I knew a little bit more than I do about things that help us stay together and stay safe and live. So I love your approach and I love your video. So from one Brad (my name is Bradford, lol) FYI to another Brad Thank you. And God bless America you and your family
Thank you so much for sharing, we are looking to build a pole shed from sheoak (casarina) cut off our land, we have debarked them and are preparing to put them in the ground, we will be treating them with the 50/50 solution
Yeah, great method. I do one additional step- I burn part of the pole that goes in the ground, then oil it. Supposedly that keeps the moisture and bugs away as well. Will report in 20 years how it worked out :D
Some people just burn the poles and never put oil on... I live in the forest and see the burned trees decay so I’m not sure how just burning would work... I’m working on a video about biochar...burned wood for garden soil.
@@Bigcountry76849 The woods you’re talking about are prime woods for making charcoal briquets for bbq’ing, not biochar. I think you missed the point of making biochar out of what you have on hand… you can make biochar out of spend crops and even dry manure. The purpose of biochar is to environmentally change waste products and debris into carbon for soil. Thanks but biochar isn’t about buying prime woods, it’s all about cleanup and use of local debris.
I've seen on another video, that after you burn the wood, you want to scrape the charcoal off on the outside, as it's very porous and will absorb water. Apparently it's the transition zone between the burnt and unburnt that offers the best protection from decay.
Tubs works great. Just lays the post in your mix. Now the whole thing get the treatment. I like you like to do the job once . Not over and over again. May you beer be forever chilled.
Thanks... yes, I thought about a big tub, long enough to fit 10’ poles and deep enough to do 8-10 at a time... but... then I need a massive amount of used oil and diesel. I gave up that thinking when I put common sense to the forefront; we’ve never had a problem with the tops of the poles in my lifetime, my fathers lifetime (he died at 91) and his fathers lifetime, just the bottoms that are in and near the dirt for water, mold and bugs. Thanks for watching and commenting and a nice compliment...
@@CaptainWingnut we used old hydraulic oil, use oil and a little diesel. As time goes by the tub gets fuller. Just put posts in the bottom and every once awhile turn them. Bottom line is question is: is the beer cold? 🤣🍺🍺
@@CaptainWingnut I will be using this method soon for my property.. The farmers around here, Alabama also cap the post heads with metal or plastic and change ever so often. Have you ever capped any? Idk if it's worth me messing with.
Hey Brad. Yet another tip I will be trying. I have been taking my used oil to be recycled...ir so they say. And I have had 2 gate "latch" post rot right at the ground, in the last 15 years. Not the hinge side...weird, I know.. right? Anyway, So. Indiana and minimum of 24" and I go about 30" and gravel and concrete. Real bugger to remove once it's in. So I will be soaking my posts for the next week or so until I get around to pulling them up and replacing them. The toughest part is them being broken right level with the ground. I had one get broken and it had enough up to get a chain around it...the right way, and a 4x4, a high lift jack and the hitch on my big truck and a little digging got it out without too much frustration. But being right off at the ground/concrete...leaves me scratching m y head a little and figuring it will be a "make it up as I go" task. Looking forward to trying the oil/diesel treatment. THANKS for your time.
Taking out a pole that rotted off level with the ground is miserable to get out...unless I can get my back hoe close... then its a breeze... love hydraulics. Thanks for watching and you'll love how well it works.
I see a old farmer that used to put coffee cans on top of his corners to keep them from rotting out but we mostly use hedge around me so you don’t have that problem commonly
Thank you so much for this tip! The pressure treated wood and even heart redwood doesn't last very long in the ground. I used to paint houses and in some of the historic old homes we'd find arsenic treated pieces of wood buried for decades. Still completely solid and zero rot. I'm looking forward to trying your method out! I have a couple of questions: 1) Do you have to use old (used) motor oil? 2) Would this work on non treated soft woods like Douglas fir?
NO, I use new oil if I don’t want the black color and want golden wood, like for a 2x4 that will run long the top of the ground as a base for,,, lets say a greenhouse high tunnel (I’m building one right now). As for soft woods, yes we use it on Doug Fir.
I was thinking of scorching the wood first before brushing the stuff on but it seems that might not even be needed and I like the idea of soaking it in even more.
@@CaptainWingnut It worked very well for old Japan. Of course, it could very well be that had they had access to diesel and used engine oil, they might have skipped the scorching as well! :D
I cut all my posts (tops) at an angle also then cut a piece of sheet metal that covers the tops and down the sides about 2 inches and use some Brad type nails to hold it in place .
Would this work on white oak post? Would they need debarked? I thought of brushing diesel/used oil and after that drys id use asphalt sealant. Can the post be green also? Thanks in advance for any advice. Ive got a lil over 50 acres im gonna fence in with woven wire this spring. One last question, how far apart should post be, ill also be using t-post.
That's awesome! Pretty sure my Dad used to do this. I remember people getting after him for using our used motor oil on fence posts. When you cut down the trees for posts do you debark the posts?
This is a great video showing us a cheap way to treat wood... Also may I ask how long does it take to soak the woods into your solution before I can use as fence post? Again thank you for sharing your wisdom and experience.
I’m learning so much especially from your responses to the comments! I figured that concrete is only good with metal fence posts, definitely not with wood in our high clay soil in Kansas. We have Mulberry and Osage Orange trees here and I am wondering if I can source some fence posts outside the mainstream big box stores. Does the oil have to have the diesel fuel added for the soak?
No, it just makes it faster @soaking in... if you have time to let them soak you could do without the diesel fuel. I have a couple of 55gal drums cut in 1/2 that I stand posts up in and let them soak for days, weeks, months. Thanks for watching and smart questions.
Great video!!! - Has anyone tried wrapping the buried portion of posts and covering the tops with Poor Man’s Fiberglass (PMF - fabric doped with waterproof wood glue, usually Titebond II or III)? I have used it successfully to roof sheds quickly and inexpensively. It is waterproof on roofs & doesn’t leak, though it may not withstand hydrostatic pressure on posts placed in the ground and could deteriorate over time. - PMF would be largely incompatible with an oil-diesel soak because the latter can’t be used before wrapping with PMF (prevents adhesion). PMF-covered posts could be coated with an oil-diesel mix after the application of PMF to bare wood, but that would prevent penetration of the mix into the wood. - Actual fiberglass would be a better option than PMF, though much more costly, and U.S. Composites informs me that many resins are not actually waterproof so specific ones must be used to provide durable waterproofing. I also wonder about specially coating the top and bottom post end grain with polyester resin, epoxy resin, 2-part Bondo, or other sealants (perhaps reinforced with fiberglass) to add an extra barrier to prevent bottom end grain wicking and top down water infiltration inside the post. - (i) Your 45-degree south-facing top cut to prevent top post freeze cracking/water infiltration and (ii) your instructions re placing gravel beneath posts before concrete pouring or tamping earth around them to avoid water retention and bottom end grain wicking are spot on. Preventing water from infiltrating posts in the first place and keeping them dry is more effective than attempting to slow rot in wood subjected to wet-dry cycles. The earth-facing side of a properly-built basement or retaining wall will stay remarkably dry so long as gravel is installed to drain water away before reaching it. - As you suggest, posts treated and installed using your method will likely survive most of us. As an older guy, I favor extra durability which survives me by several generations if it can be accomplished efficiently and at low cost. Thank you!
How long does it take for the oil/diesel smell to go away? The smell doesn’t linger, like, for forever, does it? Also, does the gas/oil mixture make the wood easily ignitable? Just wondering! Thanks for this great idea!
@@randallmarsh446 To anyone reading this, I would advise NOT to use Gasoline as a thinner. While Diesel and Oil are flammable their fumes are not easily ignitable. Gasoline fumes are extremely volitile and it would make the liquid very unstable to any spark. We use old diesel oil to temper steel. We submerge red hot steel into a vat of pure used diesel and it smokes but does NOT ignite. The mixture of diesel and oil is relatively stable from fire but adding gasoline would turn it into a ver unstable fire hazard.
I would be curious to see how deep the oil penetrates in via the tub soaking method. Maybe you could take a cut 1' from the bottom and video the results for science?
Very nice! I BURN my pole to get a char coating.... i suppose it is less durable as it is just on surface... thinking to try to reuse my chimney creosote plus diesel as a stain.... but hey, your mixture is quite simple. Have you any secret mixture to do with chimney creosote? Have a good day! Respect, Mike
hi brad, thanks for posting, and posting,,,, I like your soaking methid, and with the catalyst of desil. how do you tink it would go painted on a deck? slippery? slippery in the rail?? thanks, stewart - Melbourne AUS,,
I’m almost certain it would work. Anything that soaks in and prevents moisture from being absorbed by the wood fibre will probably do the trick and synthetic or not, wood eating bugs won’t like it either. Beside the fact that used motor oil of any type is full of carbon deposits which protect and defend the wood.
I've got a stump I want to use as an anvil stand. Would you recommend this technique to preserve it? If this would make it too flammable, what would work better?
Well, putting this on the stump will preserve the top but it will do nothing for the roots. They will still rot and you will eventually loose your anvil. It could take a few years. If you put oil on the stump, it will make it a bit more flamable but it may also soften your anvil. I just use the stump until I can’t use it anymore and then come up with something else… Like a bucked round from a tree… this you can preserve from all sides and use for years… I have a bucked round from a very hard Pinon tree that I preserved that I’ve been beating on and chopping wood on for over 20 years now.
@- Cougar Ridge Ranch I've done one better than that stump in the meantime! A park local to me just had to down a mature ash thanks to the damn boring beatles. Awful shame to see it go, but they've let me keep a hunky length of it. I'll be using this exact method on it as soon as it's warm out near me. Thank you for your time, sir!
I have a long horizontal tub but only the part in the ground ever rots so I don’t soak the entire log. I use the tub for wood that will lay on the ground.
Hi. I there a way to prevent a standing wood fence from rotting at the base? My backyard neighbors yard sits slightly higher than mine so I want to make a raised garden bed at the fence but not sure how to address the wood plank fence. If I build a rock retaining wall and back fill with dirt I know it will rot the fence. Is there anyway to prevent this from happening?
Should I coat the all the pole that will be underground?? Also what about wood decking?? I spent a boat load of money putting pressure treated wood deck on and it has started rotting
Yes, definitely coat everything that will be underground. I usually give it another 6-12” above the ground if I don’t care the aesthetics. As for the deck, it will make the deck black satin and it WILL rub off on anything that touches it. I’d use boiled Linseed oil on the deck. It will give it a nice varnished look, it will not rub off when dry and it will protect the exposed wood. If you want to brighten the deck prior to brushing on linseed, you can use a bleach water bath or pressure wash it... In my past I have pressure washed mine, then rolled on a coat of 1c bleach to a gallon of water, (wear rubber gloves, eye protection and rubber boots, this can burn you) let dry. It will lighten up the wood. Then linseed oil it. Note of caution on linseed oil... linseed oil can SELF COMBUST, or light its self on fire... any rags that you use should be kept out of the sun and away from heat sources... before throwing mine away (they can set themselves on fire in the trash can) I lay mine flat on concrete or dirt and not touching each other.. and not in the sun (the sun heats them up to self combustion very easily but they can do it in a dark room too, or if crumpled and bunched up) once dry they’re safe.
I’m sure they avoid it.. I had two poles that my dad put in without treating them on either side of a treated post... termites and ants ate the two untreated poles and left the oil poles alone.
If you need to bury the poles 24”, would it be okay to soak them in say 18” of the oil mixture and let it weep up the rest of the way? Im thinking ahead, because the wife will not like seeing the black portion above ground🤦♂️.
You really only need to treat the part that is in the ground where dirt, fungus, bacteria and insects come in contact with the wood. Not to mention you're pole will be black.. If you don't mind a black pole, no harm no foul. Thanks for watching.
@@CaptainWingnut thanks for your fast response! Totally understand what you're saying about that. I actually picked up a surplus of used motor oil like 50 gal so I think I'll just do the whole pole. I like the look too.
if you lived near a pond, or creek, the old timers would 'water cure' their wood products... (actually, the whole green limb or trunk would be chucked into the water) and about a year later, fished out and cut-to-spec. It had to be fresh-cut green trees not cured and dried. They end up almost like iron.. and weigh almost as much. I still have to 'deal' with some of these 'original' posts; driving a staple into it is next to impossible.. I like your method much better!
@@ThePetersmith77 Sure, fence posts are made out of every kind of wood the world over,,, well maybe not balsa so I would see no problem with using cherry maple and oak for fence posts..
Facing the cut tops south was great free knowledge. Thank you
Exactly what I'm looking for can't wait to put it into practice ❤
Awesome. Glad it was helpful
I was sitting here the other day thinking, "Well, I like the idea of using 4x4 posts to raise up the Cattle Panel Greenhouse sides and leaving that vent on the bottom of the wall, but we live in FL and all of that pressure treated lumber we buy rots anyway. How in the world am I going to keep those posts from rotting in a greenhouse?" and I went on to think, "if I had some tar like they used to use, that would keep them from rotting!"
And here you come along with the answer I needed! Thank you!
Thanks... its very cheap, you do something good and productive with waste oil and man it really works.
Good luck!
Cutting the top of the post at an angle and treating it it a great idea. Facing the angle to the South is another great idea. Thank you for sharing your knowledge passed down for generations. My Dad was a rancher in Oklahoma and used to grow and cut Bois D'arc trees for fence posts. No treating was needed. They were so dense they would sink if put in water. They would last 50 years or more. It was hard to drive a staple into them when fencing.
This is the same mixture I brushed onto sickle bar mowers and other similar equipment when I worked at a tobacco farm. ~60 years later, the equipment still works fine!
Very impressive
Great tip on not putting concrete under the poles!
And great to on angling the fencepost-tops to shed water, snow, and ice too!
Glad it was helpful!
Very informative, straight to the point, no bs video!! Thank you for your time and tips! 😊
Man, this guy thought of everything. I can't wait to put this one to the test even though it may take 90 years for me to report back my results.
'90 years to report back' 😆
Put a comment here, in case post updates
I realize there's 88 years left, but how's it going so far :D
brilliant idea facing the cut face south to catch the winter sun and dry out thankyou for sharing with us all
Glad you liked it
Never thought about the slanted top, pointed south, the oil painted on. I’ve been using used canning lids, or the ends out of cans and a roofing screw to cover the top for years.
Good job . We do this too it works way better if you make sure they are bone dry first . I have a length of split pvc pipe (or an old rain gutter) running back to barrell along by a wall with a slight fall . I just stand posts in it up against wall and all dip oil just runs back into barrel. I will be cutting top at south angle , nice tip , thanks 😊
Thanks for watching.
Awesome idea, I’m trying my hand at a first time cattle operation and am doing the infrastructure right the first time around. Got the first set of posts soaking right now lol
The other day I found two posts that hadn’t been treated in oil that my father put in a few years ago… found them because they’d rotted off at the base!! He’d just grabbed two posts that weren’t treated and planted them in the fence line… the other (treated) posts are still standing. 👍
On your other question about waiting… sorry I can’t get the system to let me answer it… says the comment is not there…
No, we don’t wait, we take them dripping right to the field… it’s not enough oil to do any damage to the soil. Usually by the time we get them to the field, they’re pretty drip dried!!
Good way to preserve the posts.
the cutting the posts at an angle is a good tip!
I had used old candles & rubbed the wax into the top of the posts to protect the caps
The timing of watching this video I couldn’t be more perfect I’ve been collecting fence posts to build a greenhouse here in there for a year or so I was hoping to find a way to beef up the protection against Rot. Thank you for posting. I’ve been to the Uintas they are beautiful we used to go camping there and there was this place that sold the best beef jerky I’ve ever had in my life they have their own smokehouse right next to the store.
Yeah, the guy that used to be on the highway... They sold their smokehouse and restaurant moved, I believe to Texas.
@@CaptainWingnut Yes that’s right. Hmm Texas I’m pretty close to Texas now, I’ll have to do a Internet search for in house made jerky and restaurant. Thanks.
@@CaptainWingnut would this affect the wood strength on say a 6×6 post for a treeless treehouse? if not I love this method, it beats paying $75 a piece for plastic post covers.
@@Thug2u I don’t think there’s any logical reason that this would weaken wood. It keeps water, bacteria, fungus and insect rot at bay, so I believe the wood will retain it’s natural strength.
For wood that wouldn’t look good BLACKENED by the used carbon oil, I use new or recycled 30w oil. It gives the wood an oil finished look that is golden.
European farmers have been doing this method for a long time. Oil works like a charm.
I don’t use concrete I think gravel and soil is better for a long term.
I seldom use concrete as well,,, just pound rocks in layers around the pole and build it up as I go... they stay put even with heavy gates.
Thanks.
@@CaptainWingnut cheers mate
The concrete is important to protect the air to stones interface from moisture and soil contact.
@@0MoTheG Concrete is optional and expensive. It should never be UNDER the wood. Concrete under the wood traps water and doesn’t let the post drain, then the wood rots. If you use concrete, make sure the bottom of the post is in dirt before pouring in concrete wet or dry.
If you’re putting posts in sandy soil, concrete is good as a weight for the post.
Great way to extend the life of your fence post or deck posts. Thanks.
With the price of lumber going through the roof. This could be very helpful for the guy or gal that can't afford pressure treated wood or are cutting their own.
I like it because pressure treated lumber is very soft, this keeps the hardness and integrity of the wood, it’s nasty black, but you could use NEW OIL and it would be like golden shellac.
Thanks for watching
This guys in top of his Job!!
We did this to our fence posts over 50 years ago and they are still fine.
Nice!
You need to take one from the ground to see if they are rally wellor is rooted
People complaining about this need to worry more about asphalt roads. . .
Amen!
Hello good sir! I just wanted to take a minute to thank you for making this video I imagine many more that I'll end up watching of yours cuz this one was a just straight to the point not a bunch of yammering on and you showed it and it was a way that it was real easy to understand and you just not going to beat that old America technology, And I'm not as young as I used to be but I sure do wish I knew a little bit more than I do about things that help us stay together and stay safe and live. So I love your approach and I love your video. So from one Brad (my name is Bradford, lol) FYI to another Brad Thank you. And God bless America you and your family
Thanks Bradford and God Bless
What a wonderful idea.
Thank you sir.
Greetings from Slovenia EU
Wow! Slovenia, Great English.
Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much for sharing, we are looking to build a pole shed from sheoak (casarina) cut off our land, we have debarked them and are preparing to put them in the ground, we will be treating them with the 50/50 solution
Yeah, great method. I do one additional step- I burn part of the pole that goes in the ground, then oil it. Supposedly that keeps the moisture and bugs away as well. Will report in 20 years how it worked out :D
Some people just burn the poles and never put oil on... I live in the forest and see the burned trees decay so I’m not sure how just burning would work... I’m working on a video about biochar...burned wood for garden soil.
Best wood types to burn to make your own biochar. Oak, Mesquite, cedar and pecan
@@Bigcountry76849 The woods you’re talking about are prime woods for making charcoal briquets for bbq’ing, not biochar.
I think you missed the point of making biochar out of what you have on hand… you can make biochar out of spend crops and even dry manure. The purpose of biochar is to environmentally change waste products and debris into carbon for soil.
Thanks but biochar isn’t about buying prime woods, it’s all about cleanup and use of local debris.
I've seen on another video, that after you burn the wood, you want to scrape the charcoal off on the outside, as it's very porous and will absorb water. Apparently it's the transition zone between the burnt and unburnt that offers the best protection from decay.
Excellent ideas 👍
Thanks
the last 30 seconds was a wow. How could that not be standard
Genius idea. Would they be safe for use around sheep, cattle or deer?
Tubs works great. Just lays the post in your mix. Now the whole thing get the treatment.
I like you like to do the job once . Not over and over again.
May you beer be forever chilled.
Thanks... yes, I thought about a big tub, long enough to fit 10’ poles and deep enough to do 8-10 at a time... but... then I need a massive amount of used oil and diesel. I gave up that thinking when I put common sense to the forefront; we’ve never had a problem with the tops of the poles in my lifetime, my fathers lifetime (he died at 91) and his fathers lifetime, just the bottoms that are in and near the dirt for water, mold and bugs.
Thanks for watching and commenting and a nice compliment...
@@CaptainWingnut we used old hydraulic oil, use oil and a little diesel. As time goes by the tub gets fuller. Just put posts in the bottom and every once awhile turn them.
Bottom line is question is: is the beer cold?
🤣🍺🍺
@@CaptainWingnut I will be using this method soon for my property.. The farmers around here, Alabama also cap the post heads with metal or plastic and change ever so often. Have you ever capped any? Idk if it's worth me messing with.
@@plainjane7276 We cap but not with metal or plastic, just cut the top on an angle and paint on some motor oil…
Excellent, going out now to do the same. mine are the from cedar trees I cut in the bush for fire wood I keep the 5 inch upper parts for fence posts.
Cedar trees don’t need it but it can’t hurt.
Hey Brad.
Yet another tip I will be trying. I have been taking my used oil to be recycled...ir so they say. And I have had 2 gate "latch" post rot right at the ground, in the last 15 years. Not the hinge side...weird, I know.. right? Anyway,
So. Indiana and minimum of 24" and I go about 30" and gravel and concrete.
Real bugger to remove once it's in. So I will be soaking my posts for the next week or so until I get around to pulling them up and replacing them.
The toughest part is them being broken right level with the ground.
I had one get broken and it had enough up to get a chain around it...the right way, and a 4x4, a high lift jack and the hitch on my big truck and a little digging got it out without too much frustration.
But being right off at the ground/concrete...leaves me scratching m y head a little and figuring it will be a "make it up as I go" task.
Looking forward to trying the oil/diesel treatment.
THANKS for your time.
Taking out a pole that rotted off level with the ground is miserable to get out...unless I can get my back hoe close... then its a breeze... love hydraulics.
Thanks for watching and you'll love how well it works.
Tapcons and a handyman jack 😉
I see a old farmer that used to put coffee cans on top of his corners to keep them from rotting out but we mostly use hedge around me so you don’t have that problem commonly
Thank you so much for this tip! The pressure treated wood and even heart redwood doesn't last very long in the ground. I used to paint houses and in some of the historic old homes we'd find arsenic treated pieces of wood buried for decades. Still completely solid and zero rot. I'm looking forward to trying your method out! I have a couple of questions:
1) Do you have to use old (used) motor oil?
2) Would this work on non treated soft woods like Douglas fir?
NO, I use new oil if I don’t want the black color and want golden wood, like for a 2x4 that will run long the top of the ground as a base for,,, lets say a greenhouse high tunnel (I’m building one right now).
As for soft woods, yes we use it on Doug Fir.
@@CaptainWingnut thanks for the follow up!
@@CaptainWingnut You think most oils would work? Only I have a tub of linseed oil that I have no use for.
@@chatteyj Linseed oil is pricey and used for many decades as a wood shellac but it dries hard and will eventually give up and crack.
I was thinking of scorching the wood first before brushing the stuff on but it seems that might not even be needed and I like the idea of soaking it in even more.
Scorching is just more work in my opinion.
@@CaptainWingnut It worked very well for old Japan. Of course, it could very well be that had they had access to diesel and used engine oil, they might have skipped the scorching as well! :D
I cut all my posts (tops) at an angle also then cut a piece of sheet metal that covers the tops and down the sides about 2 inches and use some Brad type nails to hold it in place .
Would this work on white oak post? Would they need debarked? I thought of brushing diesel/used oil and after that drys id use asphalt sealant. Can the post be green also? Thanks in advance for any advice. Ive got a lil over 50 acres im gonna fence in with woven wire this spring. One last question, how far apart should post be, ill also be using t-post.
Thank you
That's awesome! Pretty sure my Dad used to do this. I remember people getting after him for using our used motor oil on fence posts.
When you cut down the trees for posts do you debark the posts?
Yes, as much as possible. We only use dead trees for posts unless the live tree is diseased or need to be removed.
Great information!! Thanks Brad!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent presentation
Thank you.
A lot of good advice. Thank you.
Excelente video primo👍
gracias
Can i just use motor oil? I have nearly 130 quarts of old oil and im building a cabin with logs as post.
For animal fencing, could used vegetable oil be used?
Would it work as long?
I’m Leary abt veg oil for fear it would be an attractant.
This is a great video showing us a cheap way to treat wood...
Also may I ask how long does it take to soak the woods into your solution before I can use as fence post? Again thank you for sharing your wisdom and experience.
I use full synthetic diesel oil in my truck. Will this used oil work as good as the non-synthetic diesel oil?
Excellent. Appreciate this. Good info. Thank you.
Great idea to let soak in a Barrell. If you char them the full length with a propane weed torch the whole pole should last longer.
I’m learning so much especially from your responses to the comments! I figured that concrete is only good with metal fence posts, definitely not with wood in our high clay soil in Kansas. We have Mulberry and Osage Orange trees here and I am wondering if I can source some fence posts outside the mainstream big box stores. Does the oil have to have the diesel fuel added for the soak?
No, it just makes it faster @soaking in... if you have time to let them soak you could do without the diesel fuel. I have a couple of 55gal drums cut in 1/2 that I stand posts up in and let them soak for days, weeks, months.
Thanks for watching and smart questions.
Yes they're all saying a 50/50 mix of any used motor oil and Diesel fuel
Great video!!!
- Has anyone tried wrapping the buried portion of posts and covering the tops with Poor Man’s Fiberglass (PMF - fabric doped with waterproof wood glue, usually Titebond II or III)? I have used it successfully to roof sheds quickly and inexpensively. It is waterproof on roofs & doesn’t leak, though it may not withstand hydrostatic pressure on posts placed in the ground and could deteriorate over time.
- PMF would be largely incompatible with an oil-diesel soak because the latter can’t be used before wrapping with PMF (prevents adhesion). PMF-covered posts could be coated with an oil-diesel mix after the application of PMF to bare wood, but that would prevent penetration of the mix into the wood.
- Actual fiberglass would be a better option than PMF, though much more costly, and U.S. Composites informs me that many resins are not actually waterproof so specific ones must be used to provide durable waterproofing. I also wonder about specially coating the top and bottom post end grain with polyester resin, epoxy resin, 2-part Bondo, or other sealants (perhaps reinforced with fiberglass) to add an extra barrier to prevent bottom end grain wicking and top down water infiltration inside the post.
- (i) Your 45-degree south-facing top cut to prevent top post freeze cracking/water infiltration and (ii) your instructions re placing gravel beneath posts before concrete pouring or tamping earth around them to avoid water retention and bottom end grain wicking are spot on. Preventing water from infiltrating posts in the first place and keeping them dry is more effective than attempting to slow rot in wood subjected to wet-dry cycles. The earth-facing side of a properly-built basement or retaining wall will stay remarkably dry so long as gravel is installed to drain water away before reaching it.
- As you suggest, posts treated and installed using your method will likely survive most of us. As an older guy, I favor extra durability which survives me by several generations if it can be accomplished efficiently and at low cost.
Thank you!
How long does it take for the oil/diesel smell to go away? The smell doesn’t linger, like, for forever, does it? Also, does the gas/oil mixture make the wood easily ignitable? Just wondering! Thanks for this great idea!
@@randallmarsh446 To anyone reading this, I would advise NOT to use Gasoline as a thinner. While Diesel and Oil are flammable their fumes are not easily ignitable. Gasoline fumes are extremely volitile and it would make the liquid very unstable to any spark.
We use old diesel oil to temper steel. We submerge red hot steel into a vat of pure used diesel and it smokes but does NOT ignite.
The mixture of diesel and oil is relatively stable from fire but adding gasoline would turn it into a ver unstable fire hazard.
1500 year longhouses posts/poles found here in holland. they were burned as protective.
Thanks for the good info.
Will top of post eventually dry or does oil mix stay wet forever? Wondering how messy it is setting post if mix doesn’t ever dry? Great video & tips!
It dries but remains waterproof for years and years.
Farm desiel ... or pump ...? ... I would think red farm desiel would be better ... whats your advice / opinion
I would be curious to see how deep the oil penetrates in via the tub soaking method. Maybe you could take a cut 1' from the bottom and video the results for science?
Very cool !!
Funny, my dog's name is apollo too. I also use motor oil and diesel fuel in pump sprayer on my fence post.
Does your dog have a twin brother named Zeus?
@@CaptainWingnut lol,no but I do enjoy the great information you have shared, and very grateful. Keep up the good work.
Very nice! I BURN my pole to get a char coating.... i suppose it is less durable as it is just on surface... thinking to try to reuse my chimney creosote plus diesel as a stain.... but hey, your mixture is quite simple. Have you any secret mixture to do with chimney creosote? Have a good day! Respect, Mike
Will this work on pallets
Works good
I use 80% Oil/ 20% Diesel
I have two problems with that mix... 1. I’m impatient and need it to soak in faster and, 2. I don’t have that much oil!!
Thanks for your comment.
hi brad, thanks for posting, and posting,,,, I like your soaking methid, and with the catalyst of desil. how do you tink it would go painted on a deck? slippery? slippery in the rail?? thanks, stewart - Melbourne AUS,,
Can you use synthetic motor oil. I can get It mixed with regular non synthetic. Thanks
I’m almost certain it would work. Anything that soaks in and prevents moisture from being absorbed by the wood fibre will probably do the trick and synthetic or not, wood eating bugs won’t like it either. Beside the fact that used motor oil of any type is full of carbon deposits which protect and defend the wood.
I've got a stump I want to use as an anvil stand. Would you recommend this technique to preserve it? If this would make it too flammable, what would work better?
Well, putting this on the stump will preserve the top but it will do nothing for the roots. They will still rot and you will eventually loose your anvil. It could take a few years. If you put oil on the stump, it will make it a bit more flamable but it may also soften your anvil.
I just use the stump until I can’t use it anymore and then come up with something else… Like a bucked round from a tree… this you can preserve from all sides and use for years… I have a bucked round from a very hard Pinon tree that I preserved that I’ve been beating on and chopping wood on for over 20 years now.
@- Cougar Ridge Ranch I've done one better than that stump in the meantime! A park local to me just had to down a mature ash thanks to the damn boring beatles. Awful shame to see it go, but they've let me keep a hunky length of it. I'll be using this exact method on it as soon as it's warm out near me. Thank you for your time, sir!
Would used synthetic motor oil still work? What about using asphalt emulsion instead? Would that still need to be cut with diesel fuel?
I have done this and this works. Storm Mountion Ut
How about protection for those galvanized posts?
Great tips. Thanks
Great content! Fence posts involve my project. Can I paint over your solution?
Will this work on fresh cut fence posts?
yes
So, if you cut your own poles, if fresh cut do you stack and let dry for a while or can you soak and treat right away?
I do.. a year to season them if I have the time.
@@CaptainWingnut thanks for getting back to me, appreciate your info and vids
Question is how long does it take to dry 🤔
A day or two. Just like telephone and power poles treated with creasote, it will remain tacky for a long while.
You can make a long horizontal tub and soak the whole log
I have a long horizontal tub but only the part in the ground ever rots so I don’t soak the entire log.
I use the tub for wood that will lay on the ground.
I would use a 30 or 55 gallon drum so that they soak 3ft deep.
How deep does the engine oil diesel penetrate. 1 inch?
Hi. I there a way to prevent a standing wood fence from rotting at the base? My backyard neighbors yard sits slightly higher than mine so I want to make a raised garden bed at the fence but not sure how to address the wood plank fence. If I build a rock retaining wall and back fill with dirt I know it will rot the fence. Is there anyway to prevent this from happening?
You have to treat the posts before putting them in the ground.
I use hardiepanel cement board between my wood fence and raised garden bed.
Must there be 50 parts of diesel fuel? I only have access to motor oil
Should I coat the all the pole that will be underground?? Also what about wood decking?? I spent a boat load of money putting pressure treated wood deck on and it has started rotting
Yes, definitely coat everything that will be underground. I usually give it another 6-12” above the ground if I don’t care the aesthetics. As for the deck, it will make the deck black satin and it WILL rub off on anything that touches it. I’d use boiled Linseed oil on the deck. It will give it a nice varnished look, it will not rub off when dry and it will protect the exposed wood. If you want to brighten the deck prior to brushing on linseed, you can use a bleach water bath or pressure wash it... In my past I have pressure washed mine, then rolled on a coat of 1c bleach to a gallon of water, (wear rubber gloves, eye protection and rubber boots, this can burn you) let dry. It will lighten up the wood. Then linseed oil it.
Note of caution on linseed oil... linseed oil can SELF COMBUST, or light its self on fire... any rags that you use should be kept out of the sun and away from heat sources... before throwing mine away (they can set themselves on fire in the trash can) I lay mine flat on concrete or dirt and not touching each other.. and not in the sun (the sun heats them up to self combustion very easily but they can do it in a dark room too, or if crumpled and bunched up) once dry they’re safe.
@@CaptainWingnut Thanks I will definitely use your solutions!!!
@@diannenaworensky6698 not to answer for OP, but I'd recommend doing a mix of half linseed oil and half pine tar, the deck will last forever.
@@Austin-sv6io Thanks !!
how long do you soak them for the ends go8ng into the ground.
Does it work for termites
Yes, they don’t like it at all
where did you find untreated fence post at
We either cut them on the ranch or we buy the green copper treated posts, but we treat them all with the oil solution.
What about using asphalt driveway or roof sealer?
I'm in Texas. How will that hold up to Termites?
I’m sure they avoid it.. I had two poles that my dad put in without treating them on either side of a treated post... termites and ants ate the two untreated poles and left the oil poles alone.
If you need to bury the poles 24”, would it be okay to soak them in say 18” of the oil mixture and let it weep up the rest of the way? Im thinking ahead, because the wife will not like seeing the black portion above ground🤦♂️.
tree huggers oil help decreasing trees cutting.
How would you ever collect enough used motor oil? I wonder if oil change places would give you their used oil.
What about treating the whole pole that way? Just wondering why not?
You really only need to treat the part that is in the ground where dirt, fungus, bacteria and insects come in contact with the wood.
Not to mention you're pole will be black..
If you don't mind a black pole, no harm no foul.
Thanks for watching.
@@CaptainWingnut thanks for your fast response! Totally understand what you're saying about that. I actually picked up a surplus of used motor oil like 50 gal so I think I'll just do the whole pole. I like the look too.
@@CaptainWingnut Subscriber from South Africa thanks, Questions can i put the Poles horizontal?
@@zanothandonjoli5859 Sure
if you lived near a pond, or creek, the old timers would 'water cure' their wood products... (actually, the whole green limb or trunk would be chucked into the water) and about a year later, fished out and cut-to-spec. It had to be fresh-cut green trees not cured and dried. They end up almost like iron.. and weigh almost as much.
I still have to 'deal' with some of these 'original' posts; driving a staple into it is next to impossible..
I like your method much better!
Post rot only occurs in the top 8 inches below ground.
I’ve noticed that as soon as a post starts to rot, the insects help it...! They HATE this stuff.. Thanks for the comment.
I find the area just above the dirt is where it rots the worst, packing posts with gravel also helps a lot as it drains the moisture.
Would it be bad for the environment?
So is diesel fuel or motor oil better? Has anyone tested each?
Can i do this with hardwoods like cherry maple and oak?
I use new oil that is golden and not black for pole barns where it will show.
@@CaptainWingnut no i mean can i use cherry maple and oak for fence posts?
@@ThePetersmith77 Sure, fence posts are made out of every kind of wood the world over,,, well maybe not balsa so I would see no problem with using cherry maple and oak for fence posts..
Ah well great idea. However my grandfather did this back in the 1950. Posts are still in the ground.
Wow!
What about using pine?
I wonder how this compares to burning +pine tar?
Never dun it. This has been in our fam for centuries. Don’t fix what ain’t broken.
I have done this for many years - but they dont hold as good as U say and not as good as I was hoping.
Where can I get used motor oil besides from my own car?
Where did the oil come from? The ground!!!
Oil change businesses will give it away
🙌