Iron removers don't do all that much work on their own, and I would venture to say that they are largely unnecessary on a dark colored car. Their primary function is to remove the rust staining caused by ferrous metal. The embedded metal particles stuck into the paint may be loosened at the edges by the iron remover, but you still need clay to pluck it out of there. There is also still organic and other contamination on the paint that often needs to be removed by mechanical means if chemicals can't get the entire job done safely. Here's a good test that I've tried a couple times with obvious results: - On a white or light colored vehicle with visible iron contamination/staining, split a panel into 3 sections. One section that you spray an iron remover and let dwell, the second section spray with an iron remover (one spray on the panel, one on a clay mitt/towel) and clay the surface, and on the last section just use clay with regular soap. - Pressure wash the entire surface clean. - Spray iron remover and let it dwell and see which areas still indicate iron contamination being present. I already know the answer, and I suspect you may too, but I think it would be good for people to either try it themselves or to see someone like you show it on video.
Is there going to be a video on the new Ceakote version 2 ? You was spot on last time so i'm keen to see how the new version stands up to your tests. I have seen a few videos and it looks really good but none have torture tested it or even put iron remover over it .
I'm not a huge fan of clay mitts, I find they can leave micro scratches. I prefer the old school clay bars, they may be a bit slower but do a better job in my opinion. At the very least, clay mitts should be rinsed after each body panel to remove contaminates to reduce the chances of marring the paint as much as possible.
I've never got scratches or marring from a clay bar before. I take my time and go super gentle until the contaminants are off the clear coat. With clay mitts, I've found them to be faster for me. I think the clay mitt used in this video isn't the ideal one to use. Perforated clay towels are safer as it allows things to get into the holes so it's not dragged.
@@RhinestoneRhino I've never gotten scratches from a clay bar either, that's why I said I prefer them. I have gotten scratches from a clay mitt which is why I don't use them. They are generally faster but time doesn't matter as I'm not running a detailing business, I just maintain my personal fleet of 7 cars.
Question: Why even bother using an iron remover if you still have to clay bar? I'm going to be claying the entire surface anyway at that point. Thanks!
I guess also save some marring, kinda same concept of pre-soak and pre-rinse with pressure washer before contact wash, but if your claying before full paint correction like heavy compound and then finishing polish then you're right using iron remover may be a waste of time and money
Amazing product.We are cooperate with High Pressure Air Blaster on TH-cam.We have send the email about our product review video to you for a long time,but no one to reply it.Please upload it asap.Thank you so much.
I literally went through 4 videos before clicking yours and you have been the most informative and answered my questions in my head
Thank you. Glad I could help.
Iron removers don't do all that much work on their own, and I would venture to say that they are largely unnecessary on a dark colored car. Their primary function is to remove the rust staining caused by ferrous metal. The embedded metal particles stuck into the paint may be loosened at the edges by the iron remover, but you still need clay to pluck it out of there. There is also still organic and other contamination on the paint that often needs to be removed by mechanical means if chemicals can't get the entire job done safely.
Here's a good test that I've tried a couple times with obvious results:
- On a white or light colored vehicle with visible iron contamination/staining, split a panel into 3 sections. One section that you spray an iron remover and let dwell, the second section spray with an iron remover (one spray on the panel, one on a clay mitt/towel) and clay the surface, and on the last section just use clay with regular soap.
- Pressure wash the entire surface clean.
- Spray iron remover and let it dwell and see which areas still indicate iron contamination being present.
I already know the answer, and I suspect you may too, but I think it would be good for people to either try it themselves or to see someone like you show it on video.
So whats the answer? Thank you
@@irollon26sbruh. Read his first sentence and get a clue
@@nawdude4292well everyone around here has contradicting answers, so everyone needs to get a clue
What about clay bar with the iron remover!?
YES, a Good Point!
Works good. Sometimes the iron remover will dry out tho. So just keep it wet with it.
@@autodetailingpodcast not all iron removers are created equal. So not all can be used for claying as a lubricant
thats kinda a myth
Is there going to be a video on the new Ceakote version 2 ? You was spot on last time so i'm keen to see how the new version stands up to your tests. I have seen a few videos and it looks really good but none have torture tested it or even put iron remover over it .
Yes. Going to compare it to my ceramic coating. Both short term and long term test. Thanks for watching!!
How are things looking for the Boss Ceramic coating as far as ETA?
About 2 weeks
I'm not a huge fan of clay mitts, I find they can leave micro scratches. I prefer the old school clay bars, they may be a bit slower but do a better job in my opinion. At the very least, clay mitts should be rinsed after each body panel to remove contaminates to reduce the chances of marring the paint as much as possible.
I hear ya on that. it’s marred a few cars on me.
I've never got scratches or marring from a clay bar before. I take my time and go super gentle until the contaminants are off the clear coat. With clay mitts, I've found them to be faster for me.
I think the clay mitt used in this video isn't the ideal one to use. Perforated clay towels are safer as it allows things to get into the holes so it's not dragged.
@@RhinestoneRhino I've never gotten scratches from a clay bar either, that's why I said I prefer them. I have gotten scratches from a clay mitt which is why I don't use them. They are generally faster but time doesn't matter as I'm not running a detailing business, I just maintain my personal fleet of 7 cars.
@@Sasquatch_by_Day I've never got scratches with a clay mitt either as long as it's perforated like the ones from P&S / DIY Detail.
Jimbo!! Can you use a magic eraser as a clay bar/mitt alternative? Love to see a video on that. Thanks.
I don’t think so. But I’ve never tried it. It might be too aggressive to do the whole car with.
Happy Father's day
Question: Why even bother using an iron remover if you still have to clay bar? I'm going to be claying the entire surface anyway at that point. Thanks!
It does remove a lot and will save some time in the clay process. But tbh it’s not 100% necessary
I guess also save some marring, kinda same concept of pre-soak and pre-rinse with pressure washer before contact wash, but if your claying before full paint correction like heavy compound and then finishing polish then you're right using iron remover may be a waste of time and money
@@victor4091 I agree. If you're polishing then perhaps you can do without iron decon. If you aren't, then I would do those steps.
Hey Jimbo, when the soap droppin?
About 3 weeks. Labels are being printed now
Amazing product.We are cooperate with High Pressure Air Blaster on TH-cam.We have send the email about our product review video to you for a long time,but no one to reply it.Please upload it asap.Thank you so much.
Iron Remover smell will be in your nose for days
💯
👌🏻🇺🇸👌🏻🇺🇸