I'm learning a lot from these videos. I'm watching them daily on repeat. Thank you for this information because it's giving me the confidence I need to to build my own engine. This will be my first build.
What a wealth of knowledge. You’ve really open my eyes as to why performance motors are so expensive. Looking forward to watching the rest of your content. Thanks very much. 👍🏻
thank you for doing this series. i've been looking for something like this for a long time; people normally gloss over the fine details. i've got a project in mind which is centered around tearing down the car and rebuilding the engine so i can get a sense of what im doing before i go and buy the project car i've always wanted. this series is going to help so much!
Thank you, Pete, for this awesome instructional videos. I am a licensed plumber but know next to nothing about cars. Getting knowledge like the one from your videos is crucial nowadays because of the prevalence of incompetence and plain scams. Thank you so much again!
Hey man really appreciate your 350 engine building videos, i'm building a 350 LT1 for my 95 firebird and i've never done it before. Your videos though are so in depth and extremely helpful thanks for taking your time man!!
Always great to get a video from you for references, I still go back to your 350 sbc and 351w videos for information. I'm hoping to build a 351 cleveland stroker for my 89 mustang gt.
thank you for teaching us newbies I want to learn how to build engines but not sure where to start. I helped a buddy build a 351w and it helped a lot but im still in the dark kind of.
Excelllent information on the differences in cast, forged and billet. You gave me some good information. I just had a 383 stroker built that produces 500+ hp. The builder used a 4340 Eagle cranker and Eagle rods. I wished I had watched this video before the build was finished.
Awesome video! I have a '86 Bronco with a 351W ,5.8L engine that seems that it was rebuilt at certain point since it has .040 pistons. Yesterday I did the Leak down test and the results point towards the need of an engine rebuild. The best cyl. had a 9.8% leak the worst, # 7 and 8 had 44% leak; all the other cylinders were in between these values...The truck has not been started in 12 years and when I inspected cylinders with a borescope they all look clean with minimal carbon deposits.. I realize that the hardest thing is to find a suitable rebuilt kit and a machine shop...Thanks for posting.
Really nice information Pete thanks a lot for the knowledge always a pleasure to watch your videos. I’m building a 383 stroker any advice on what to go with on crank shaft rods pistons kit thanks
Wow you are knowledgeable!! I'm building a 460 and I'm doing a ton of research to get the combination right. Lots of different opinions out there especially on the Cam. I want the sweet spot between 3 and 65. At the same time it can't be a complete monster around town. Thank you for the video
I had to buy one billet crank and may buy one again in the future. Was always taught to over build for strength and safety. Cast is good to 500 hp, but are you pushing it a little? You bet. I like forged in 400-1200 hp range. And a billet over that. Just a home builder for friends and family so no where near the experience of Sir Pete! My billet is in my 347 ford boss block(2006) that sings to 8000 rpm.
Good information. I’m beefing up a 4r70w right now and the 32valve 4.6 is next. I was thinking about just buying a balanced rotating assembly from L&M and be done with it.
The caution goes for all parts. Even thermostats. I'm back to running my original factory 195F MOPAR thermostat from 1996 because both a Murray and a Gates were opening at 180F, despite being marked as 195.
Hey Pete, here's a question! I've got a block for a modern import build and I'm ready to add the turbo kit built for the car. The turbo kit runs great with the oem block but I've sourced and gotten my oem block built internally with forged parts to hold more boost safely, long term tolerances etc etc.....my last piece to the puzzle was considering wha do to about the oem crankshaft. It's okay at best "material wise" but my end goal is to simply take the oem design and have a custom one made of better material. I'm not looking to change the stroke or the design itself "it's great" just making the crank of better material. What could you theoretically recommend in this type of scenario. *Current turbo kit on the oem block runs to 350whp/400wtq safely*
So what cash crank do you recommend for the best one out of all the cast cranks eagles scat is eagle Scott I don't know any other names of other ones right off the top of my head to build a 500 horsepower motor
Me knowing that forged parts are stronger because of better grain patrern. Billet has tensile strength but shear forces are kryptonite. Ever wondered why billet parts make spectacular fails for no good reason? Yeah
If there is a small (tiny) nick in the crankshaft lobe, can I get away with polishing it and installing new bearings? I’m an amateur, on a budget and just wanted to get some professional advice.
The Chinese crank might very well have been made by a 14 year old kid who's parents may have disagreed with the politics of the Chinese government, and the kid is now forced to work in a Chinese sweatshop that makes cranks. Please spent the extra dollars and BUY ONLY USA MADE!!!
Some people spend more time choosing a crankshaft than a wife. Classic and probably true.
I've never seen anyone divorce a crankshaft....lol
@@PetesGarage lol lol
I'm learning a lot from these videos. I'm watching them daily on repeat. Thank you for this information because it's giving me the confidence I need to to build my own engine. This will be my first build.
You are so welcome!
Yes I will be doing the same and I do thank u as well sir ..
What a wealth of knowledge. You’ve really open my eyes as to why performance motors are so expensive. Looking forward to watching the rest of your content. Thanks very much. 👍🏻
Thank you!
thank you for doing this series. i've been looking for something like this for a long time; people normally gloss over the fine details. i've got a project in mind which is centered around tearing down the car and rebuilding the engine so i can get a sense of what im doing before i go and buy the project car i've always wanted. this series is going to help so much!
Glad it was helpful!
I wanna take this time to say thank you for the intro of this video alone because im trying to learn
You're welcome my friend
Thank you, Pete, for this awesome instructional videos.
I am a licensed plumber but know next to nothing about cars.
Getting knowledge like the one from your videos is crucial nowadays because of the prevalence of incompetence and plain scams.
Thank you so much again!
Thanks my friend
Hey man really appreciate your 350 engine building videos, i'm building a 350 LT1 for my 95 firebird and i've never done it before. Your videos though are so in depth and extremely helpful thanks for taking your time man!!
Glad to help
This is the best content on TH-cam. Pete should have 100 million subscribers.
I agree...lol
that 1 dislike is from a Chinese crankshaft manufacture
The communist
Always great to get a video from you for references, I still go back to your 350 sbc and 351w videos for information. I'm hoping to build a 351 cleveland stroker for my 89 mustang gt.
That would be awesome!
Put on aluminum heads with that stroker combo and try to remove your permagrin.
Already planned on that trick flow twisted wedge top end kit and keep it fuel injected
This is so insightful..... I just feel like I have found my treasure island .... Thank You Sir. lots of respect for ya : )
You are very welcome
Excellent video! Being correctly informed and "pay once cry once" apply very well when choosing engine parts for rebuilt...
Thank you!
thank you for teaching us newbies I want to learn how to build engines but not sure where to start. I helped a buddy build a 351w and it helped a lot but im still in the dark kind of.
Glad to help
Excelllent information on the differences in cast, forged and billet. You gave me some good information. I just had a 383 stroker built that produces 500+ hp. The builder used a 4340 Eagle cranker and Eagle rods. I wished I had watched this video before the build was finished.
Sounds like you'll have a good motor
Awesome video! I have a '86 Bronco with a 351W ,5.8L engine that seems that it was rebuilt at certain point since it has .040 pistons. Yesterday I did the Leak down test and the results point towards the need of an engine rebuild. The best cyl. had a 9.8% leak the worst, # 7 and 8 had 44% leak; all the other cylinders were in between these values...The truck has not been started in 12 years and when I inspected cylinders with a borescope they all look clean with minimal carbon deposits.. I realize that the hardest thing is to find a suitable rebuilt kit and a machine shop...Thanks for posting.
Good luck
You are an encyclopedia of engines👌👌👌
Thank you my friend
Thank you for the exceptional video!! A wealth of knowledge and passion for Sure.
Thank you very much Jill
Thank you for the information. Truly appreciate you taking your time to explain.
Glad it was helpful!
Really nice information Pete thanks a lot for the knowledge always a pleasure to watch your videos. I’m building a 383 stroker any advice on what to go with on crank shaft rods pistons kit thanks
Thanks, I have not really seen a bad one. It all depends on your budget
Wow you are knowledgeable!! I'm building a 460 and I'm doing a ton of research to get the combination right. Lots of different opinions out there especially on the Cam. I want the sweet spot between 3 and 65. At the same time it can't be a complete monster around town.
Thank you for the video
Glad I could help!
This is amazing. Thank you very much!
You're very welcome!
I had to buy one billet crank and may buy one again in the future. Was always taught to over build for strength and safety. Cast is good to 500 hp, but are you pushing it a little? You bet. I like forged in 400-1200 hp range. And a billet over that. Just a home builder for friends and family so no where near the experience of Sir Pete! My billet is in my 347 ford boss block(2006) that sings to 8000 rpm.
Cast steel to 500
Good information. I’m beefing up a 4r70w right now and the 32valve 4.6 is next. I was thinking about just buying a balanced rotating assembly from L&M and be done with it.
Good choice!
Thanks Pete for the education!
You bet!
Great video. Thanks for calling it a damper instead of a ‘dampener’. Ha ha
It's all about the words...lol
full send bro never lift! knowledge is power!
Truth!
very well done, man how do you fit all that in your head i enjoy your videos so much good info.
Thanks Roger...sometimes I think I forget most of it
So who else went and started to price the cranks? Thanks for the knowledge Pete
I did I did!
The caution goes for all parts. Even thermostats. I'm back to running my original factory 195F MOPAR thermostat from 1996 because both a Murray and a Gates were opening at 180F, despite being marked as 195.
That can happen
What was your first engine rebuild and what would you recommend for a good first time engine build for a beginner?
Any common engine with lots of parts availability, Chevy 350, For 302, 351
Sir you are awesome
Thank you my friend
part 2 took 7 years damn
Part 2 was updated to be more accurate
Hey Pete, here's a question! I've got a block for a modern import build and I'm ready to add the turbo kit built for the car. The turbo kit runs great with the oem block but I've sourced and gotten my oem block built internally with forged parts to hold more boost safely, long term tolerances etc etc.....my last piece to the puzzle was considering wha do to about the oem crankshaft. It's okay at best "material wise" but my end goal is to simply take the oem design and have a custom one made of better material. I'm not looking to change the stroke or the design itself "it's great" just making the crank of better material. What could you theoretically recommend in this type of scenario. *Current turbo kit on the oem block runs to 350whp/400wtq safely*
If you can get a billet crank made, that would be the best
Thanks Pete!
You're welcome!
Wow so much to consider thank
Thanks Phil
Such good information
Thank you
Hi Pete, thank you for sharing your knowledge. Wich crank can you recommend for marine use for my 5.7 350?
Definitely forged
Supper helpfull vid for DIY,r like me
Glad it helped
Best cam kit for 350 chevy
So what cash crank do you recommend for the best one out of all the cast cranks eagles scat is eagle Scott I don't know any other names of other ones right off the top of my head to build a 500 horsepower motor
I've used Eagle for quite some time with zero problems
Golden info
Thanks my friend
Me knowing that forged parts are stronger because of better grain patrern. Billet has tensile strength but shear forces are kryptonite.
Ever wondered why billet parts make spectacular fails for no good reason? Yeah
Interesting
What type shop can properly reheat treat a nitrate crank, do general machine shops have that technology these days or is that more specialized
Machine shops will send them to a heat treater
@@PetesGarage ok, good info, thanks
Are there writings on the crankshaft to show where it's made?
No, usually on the box
Best cam kit for a 350 motor Chevy? For a daily driver?
Stock or 1 above
If there is a small (tiny) nick in the crankshaft lobe, can I get away with polishing it and installing new bearings? I’m an amateur, on a budget and just wanted to get some professional advice.
If you can polish it so there is not metal sticking up at all you should be ok
@@PetesGarage awesome, thank you!
Can we use a crankshaft of Suzuki 1000 cc mpfi engine in Suzuki 1300 cc mpfi
I don't know, call a dealer
Hey where is one of the best places to order a crankshaft billet?
Depends on the engine, but Summit Or Jegs are reliable
4140 and 4340 can be used for a billet crankshaft
Sure it can
All Eagle and 95% of Scat cranks are offshore.... Never seen one of them break unless something else went wrong in the engine first...
Thanks!
So if you balance your crankshaft, you don't need a harmonic balancer? Then what do you put there? I thought all engines need a harmonic balancer.
If you have a balanced rotating assembly you use a different balancer up front
The Chinese crank might very well have been made by a 14 year old kid who's parents may have disagreed with the politics of the Chinese government, and the kid is now forced to work in a Chinese sweatshop that makes cranks. Please spent the extra dollars and BUY ONLY USA MADE!!!
That's possible