The original ones are solid, and its pretty common among a lot of hondas with a lot of miles on them to slowly wear out. Once they're worn out they will pitch in like you're describing. If you're not lowered, and not planning to be, you can replace them with OE or OEM ones. The only reason to get adjustable ones is if you're changing your ride height via suspension or tire/wheel combo.
Hello, I just bought some wheels for my si and I noticed that i need to add some more negative camber and I have the same camber arms but i just don’t know how to adjust them while on the car. I haven’t seen any video of someone actually adjusting them while on the car, could you tell me how too or show me how to?
Since the camber arm fits into the top of the knuckle if you add more threads you are adding camber (positive camber), if expose less threads you're removing camber (negative camber). What wheel size (with offset) are you running and what tire? If its a sedan you have less room in the rear for tires for some reason than the coupe.
hey bud, I bought these rear control arms adjustable because my rear inner tire worn out and the mechanic said I need to replace the control arms. I noticed past few months that I hear some noise at the rear and when they jack up the car I see my tire worn out really bad. Is it the rear control arms is the main problem or the I need to repplace the springs too? I"m still waiting for the parts to be shipped.
Are you stock ride height/stock tire size? If so then just replacing the stock control arms will be fine, since the stock ones are non adjustable. If you’re not stock ride height or run a different tire size then you’ll want to get adjustable ones since you’ve changed your suspension geometry. Since they’re adjustable you’ll need to get an alignment to bring your rear tires into spec, but if you go to a shop their computer will tell them your rears are non adjustable so you will specifically need to tell them otherwise they won’t think to check.
These are perfect for my application, which was just lowering. Really happy with the quality of K-Tuned on this. Honestly they're a pretty simple part so they're gonna be very similar between the different brands, I feel like these guys were a good middle between cost and quality. Installing them is 3 bolts and adjusting is easy to do DIY with the string trick or bringing it to a shop. If you bring it to a shop let them know that although their computer will say they don't have rear adjustable camber they do (or else they wont adjust it for you!).
hey! The reason you get these for the rear is because the stock rear camber arms are solid and have no adjustment for the new ride height. The front camber is completely adjustable from the factory, so you don't need anything special to account for the new drop, just let your springs sit for a few weeks to load and go ahead and get your alignment :)
you were using 3/8 drive ratchet not a 1/2 inch, also these control arm bolt on the bushing should not be fully tightened until the suspension is loaded on the ground.
The driver looks like it's 3/8th for sure so you got me there, the important part is the 14mm socket which at least I got that right. Since my car is 2" lower than stock height there is no way to get under there and tighten with the suspension loaded, so I did the next best thing which is getting a jack underneath the knuckle as you're doing the work. It's not perfect, but it is the best that I could do since I don't have a lift or a high enough ride height to get under it while its on the ground.
When adjusting the camber, which part were you the loosening/ tightening? It looks like the center nut threads into the arm and the end that connects to the wheel hub also threads into that middle nut. Just curious
Mario Michaca its just a regular jam nut design where you have a set of nuts that allow you to add more or less threads as a means of lengthening or shortening the adjustment length. It’s pretty common on suspension parts as well as tie rods and sometimes on adjustable sway bar end links.
@@Dan-lx7ok I gotcha. But there are set different sets of threads right? One set threads into the arm, and another threads into the threads that go into the arm. The first nut (largest) should be the jam for the adjustment of the center nut (that screws into the arm), and the the smallest nut should be the jam for the adjustment (if needed I guess) of the bushing end that attaches to the wheel hub, that's screws into the middle nut. I hope im not explaining it like a dumbass lol, but my question is, which would you use to adjust first? Would you bottom out the bushing end into the center nut that threads into the arm and then adjust center nut in and out of the arm as needed? Or would you bottom out the center nut into the arm and then adjust the bushing end in and out of the center nut as needed?
Mario Michaca oh ok gotchu. So there is a jam nut which is the big bolt and the center bolt. You will use this to adjust the actual camber. The bushing on the end actually is threaded as well so as you adjust the camber length, you can then adjust the position of the bushing to make it fit (so you don’t have to go in 180 degree rotations). Does that make sense? The bushing at the end really should only rotate 0-1 full rotation, it shouldn’t be used to adjust the length. This should be set and not really touched after it is installed, that way an alignment tech (or you) can adjust camber without disconnecting the arm from the top of the knuckle. Does that make sense?
@@Dan-lx7ok perfect! I'm picking up what you're putting down. That helps me out a ton man, thanks a lot. So the bushing should be threaded down all the way and only used to get it to line up with the wheel hub and all actual camber adjustments are done with the center nut. That makes perfect sense man. Thanks again. The least I can do is sub to your channel after this!
Mario Michaca i appreciate the support man! It’s pretty easy once you get it in your hands, sounds like you’ll be in good shape when you go to do the job :)
So can i get these even though Im not lowered yet? Im planning on going lower but I need to replace my stock arms asap as my rear passenger tire is kind of slanted. Thanks in advance!
Yep! These can serve as OEM replacements and then can be adjusted later. Make sure when you get your alignment to tell the techs doing it that you have rear camber adjustment because their computers will tell them there is nothing to adjust back there otherwise (since the OEM and OE are non-adjustable solid arms)
Thanks man! I'm gonna order them right now! One more quick question are you using roll center adjusters? I'm kind of new to this so I really appreciate all the info. Subscribing to your channel btw. Wish i would of found it sooner!
D G honestly I don’t entirely know. I’m pretty sure you use those if you’re going for extreme camber, whereas I was just trying to lower my center of gravity a bit. I can’t really speak to how these hold up if you’re looking to do a major camber and slammed setup
Daniel Siebert nah im not doing extreme camber I was just asking because i was on the k series website and it says they recommend them when u go lower.. But anyways how are these holding up? I should be getting mine on friday
@@DG-nb3hi They're holding perfect for me. I haven't had any issues. On the other hand, I did just switch from the lowering springs to an actual coilover set in the rear and I like that a lot better. My bumpstops on the front were completely destroyed and my tophats were in rough shape. The rear suspension was holding up pretty well though, and i'm sure the camber arms definitely added some life to the stock shocks and skunk2 springs back there.
I haven't had any issues with them wearing out but there is some surface rust that surprised me. I live in the south where we don't have to normally deal with this stuff, so it was a bit surprising to see it but not on the OEM 12 year old parts I still have. That being said mechanically they're holding up great, no alignment issues.
Not at all, the only reason I changed them is because the rear camber arms from the factory are solid, meaning when I lowered my car my camber was way off. I added these to correct it to the normal range, K-Tuned has really good sales and customer service so I suggest just shooting them an email!
![เจ็บที่ยังฮัก - ม่อน วรวิทย์ [ Official Mv ] จอนนี่มิวสิค](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KALIGSRSjFs/mqdefault.jpg)
I’m so glad these bolts came out so easy for you I’ve spent three days heating lubing and cutting bc these bolts were stripped
All I can say is once you manage to get the new ones in you might as well put anti-seize on all of the hardware as it goes back together. Good luck!
@@Dan-lx7ok i got them finally shes getting an alignment right now. i pray to never mess withj these again XD
anyone reading this,,, heat, cut ,hammer gun and repeat
XD
My 09 civic isn't lowered, but my rear passenger wheel is slanted in towards the wheel well , and a local shop told me I needed some of these
The original ones are solid, and its pretty common among a lot of hondas with a lot of miles on them to slowly wear out. Once they're worn out they will pitch in like you're describing.
If you're not lowered, and not planning to be, you can replace them with OE or OEM ones. The only reason to get adjustable ones is if you're changing your ride height via suspension or tire/wheel combo.
@@Dan-lx7ok cool thanks for the info !
Hello, I just bought some wheels for my si and I noticed that i need to add some more negative camber and I have the same camber arms but i just don’t know how to adjust them while on the car. I haven’t seen any video of someone actually adjusting them while on the car, could you tell me how too or show me how to?
Since the camber arm fits into the top of the knuckle if you add more threads you are adding camber (positive camber), if expose less threads you're removing camber (negative camber). What wheel size (with offset) are you running and what tire? If its a sedan you have less room in the rear for tires for some reason than the coupe.
What is the tire size? 205/45r17?
Stock for the FA5 is 215/45/17R
Thanks for the helpful video bud
Happy to help!
hey bud, I bought these rear control arms adjustable because my rear inner tire worn out and the mechanic said I need to replace the control arms. I noticed past few months that I hear some noise at the rear and when they jack up the car I see my tire worn out really bad. Is it the rear control arms is the main problem or the I need to repplace the springs too? I"m still waiting for the parts to be shipped.
Are you stock ride height/stock tire size? If so then just replacing the stock control arms will be fine, since the stock ones are non adjustable.
If you’re not stock ride height or run a different tire size then you’ll want to get adjustable ones since you’ve changed your suspension geometry. Since they’re adjustable you’ll need to get an alignment to bring your rear tires into spec, but if you go to a shop their computer will tell them your rears are non adjustable so you will specifically need to tell them otherwise they won’t think to check.
the bolt was 14mm but what diameter was it?
Whatcha mean? All of the bolt heads are 14mm on the camber arms.
How have they held up? I’m trying to figure out what camber kit I should go with
These are perfect for my application, which was just lowering. Really happy with the quality of K-Tuned on this. Honestly they're a pretty simple part so they're gonna be very similar between the different brands, I feel like these guys were a good middle between cost and quality.
Installing them is 3 bolts and adjusting is easy to do DIY with the string trick or bringing it to a shop. If you bring it to a shop let them know that although their computer will say they don't have rear adjustable camber they do (or else they wont adjust it for you!).
Hi Daniel! How low are you lowered front and back? Did you need any front adjustable camber arms? Thanks for the video very informative!
hey! The reason you get these for the rear is because the stock rear camber arms are solid and have no adjustment for the new ride height. The front camber is completely adjustable from the factory, so you don't need anything special to account for the new drop, just let your springs sit for a few weeks to load and go ahead and get your alignment :)
@@Dan-lx7ok thanks so much bro. Keep building!
you were using 3/8 drive ratchet not a 1/2 inch, also these control arm bolt on the bushing should not be fully tightened until the suspension is loaded on the ground.
The driver looks like it's 3/8th for sure so you got me there, the important part is the 14mm socket which at least I got that right. Since my car is 2" lower than stock height there is no way to get under there and tighten with the suspension loaded, so I did the next best thing which is getting a jack underneath the knuckle as you're doing the work. It's not perfect, but it is the best that I could do since I don't have a lift or a high enough ride height to get under it while its on the ground.
@@Dan-lx7ok oh yeah I didn't realize you did that so that's fine too🔥🔥🔥
Can you use camber arms if you’re stock height ? I plan on dropping it with springs but I want to camber it first
Yep - should work for OEM ride height
@@Dan-lx7ok how much camber can u get on 0 threads
@@judekoury144 should be +/- 3 degrees from stock camber, keep in mind ride height plays into this tho
When adjusting the camber, which part were you the loosening/ tightening? It looks like the center nut threads into the arm and the end that connects to the wheel hub also threads into that middle nut. Just curious
Mario Michaca its just a regular jam nut design where you have a set of nuts that allow you to add more or less threads as a means of lengthening or shortening the adjustment length. It’s pretty common on suspension parts as well as tie rods and sometimes on adjustable sway bar end links.
@@Dan-lx7ok I gotcha. But there are set different sets of threads right? One set threads into the arm, and another threads into the threads that go into the arm. The first nut (largest) should be the jam for the adjustment of the center nut (that screws into the arm), and the the smallest nut should be the jam for the adjustment (if needed I guess) of the bushing end that attaches to the wheel hub, that's screws into the middle nut. I hope im not explaining it like a dumbass lol, but my question is, which would you use to adjust first? Would you bottom out the bushing end into the center nut that threads into the arm and then adjust center nut in and out of the arm as needed? Or would you bottom out the center nut into the arm and then adjust the bushing end in and out of the center nut as needed?
Mario Michaca oh ok gotchu. So there is a jam nut which is the big bolt and the center bolt. You will use this to adjust the actual camber. The bushing on the end actually is threaded as well so as you adjust the camber length, you can then adjust the position of the bushing to make it fit (so you don’t have to go in 180 degree rotations). Does that make sense?
The bushing at the end really should only rotate 0-1 full rotation, it shouldn’t be used to adjust the length. This should be set and not really touched after it is installed, that way an alignment tech (or you) can adjust camber without disconnecting the arm from the top of the knuckle.
Does that make sense?
@@Dan-lx7ok perfect! I'm picking up what you're putting down. That helps me out a ton man, thanks a lot. So the bushing should be threaded down all the way and only used to get it to line up with the wheel hub and all actual camber adjustments are done with the center nut. That makes perfect sense man. Thanks again. The least I can do is sub to your channel after this!
Mario Michaca i appreciate the support man! It’s pretty easy once you get it in your hands, sounds like you’ll be in good shape when you go to do the job :)
Are these compatible with non Si models?
Rolando Dones they should be, according to the site I got them from they work on SI and Non-SI models.
So can i get these even though Im not lowered yet? Im planning on going lower but I need to replace my stock arms asap as my rear passenger tire is kind of slanted. Thanks in advance!
Yep! These can serve as OEM replacements and then can be adjusted later. Make sure when you get your alignment to tell the techs doing it that you have rear camber adjustment because their computers will tell them there is nothing to adjust back there otherwise (since the OEM and OE are non-adjustable solid arms)
Thanks man! I'm gonna order them right now! One more quick question are you using roll center adjusters? I'm kind of new to this so I really appreciate all the info. Subscribing to your channel btw. Wish i would of found it sooner!
D G honestly I don’t entirely know. I’m pretty sure you use those if you’re going for extreme camber, whereas I was just trying to lower my center of gravity a bit. I can’t really speak to how these hold up if you’re looking to do a major camber and slammed setup
Daniel Siebert nah im not doing extreme camber I was just asking because i was on the k series website and it says they recommend them when u go lower.. But anyways how are these holding up? I should be getting mine on friday
@@DG-nb3hi They're holding perfect for me. I haven't had any issues. On the other hand, I did just switch from the lowering springs to an actual coilover set in the rear and I like that a lot better. My bumpstops on the front were completely destroyed and my tophats were in rough shape. The rear suspension was holding up pretty well though, and i'm sure the camber arms definitely added some life to the stock shocks and skunk2 springs back there.
Are they still holding up?
I haven't had any issues with them wearing out but there is some surface rust that surprised me. I live in the south where we don't have to normally deal with this stuff, so it was a bit surprising to see it but not on the OEM 12 year old parts I still have.
That being said mechanically they're holding up great, no alignment issues.
@@Dan-lx7ok alright cool i just purchased these. I guess ill clear them so they dont rust being that i live on the east coast
Where can I buy ?
Juni Gomez I got mine off of kseriesparts and you should be also able to get them off of k tuned’s website directly
How are they holding up?
Jared Shattuck awesome so far. No issues and haven’t had to get them readjusted, really happy with the quality of k-tuned too.
Daniel Siebert thats awesome, thank you for the info the quality looks great and the price is right
Did you max out the camber kits??
Not at all, the only reason I changed them is because the rear camber arms from the factory are solid, meaning when I lowered my car my camber was way off. I added these to correct it to the normal range, K-Tuned has really good sales and customer service so I suggest just shooting them an email!