It’s an axe, not a chefs knife. I just bought an x25 this morning and used it for 6 hours straight and it is hands down the best splitting axe I’ve ever used.
@@J2I3H yeah I don’t know what this guy is talking about the blade chipping and rolling. I split about 3 cord’s worth with mine so far and my blade never chipped or rolled. He must’ve hit something with it that was embedded in the wood or something
Same here , have a little one like that and a 8lb fiskars been using them for three years and love them to death. Way better then any other mal or ax in the market. And we chop enough would to heat a 2000 sq ft shop plus a decent size house in a Illinois winter. So it is not like we dont use them.
@@dillonqaphsiel7977 Bro, did you marry a fiskars axe and then it divorced you and took your kids and house and left you with nothing? Why do you argue with every commenter that was happy with their fiskars? I have used one fore years with no problems. You have to work with it, maintain it. Of course there are better axes, but for non professionals and for this price, it's hard to find much better. Is it so hard to believe that people have used this axe succsessfully?
@user-zn9ke8um8s lol soft metal - doesn’t hold an edge - easily bent handle - can’t replace handle - having to buy new one instead of keeping the same axe for life. lol keep coping 😂 Edit: 🖕
@@Masterkuush used plenty of axes. Axes you could work with for a life time and never have any issues. You over here bragging about an axe that breaks easily.
Actually, the blade of the axe is soft. It’s designed to be dinged and slightly chipped, as it’s soft metal. I have had my X27 almost 12 years with zero issues, the bit looks way, way worse than yours there, and it blows through wood as good as it did on day 1.
@@dillonqaphsiel7977 you don't want an axe head that is too hard or if you hit anything at all other than soft wood, it will chip really bad and shatter. Softer metals dull quicker but are heartier when it comes to using it day to day splitting and chopping wood. Especially for a splitting maul and splitting axe, you don't need it to be perfectly sharp. It will do the job as it is, and last longer overall than an axe with a head that is too hard. You really don't want a piece of the axe head chipping off and getting embedded into one of your body parts. It sucks. My grandfather knows all too well how much that sucks, and by extension, I can see how much it sucks.
@@dillonqaphsiel7977 Are you another guy that can't help but hit the ground on every swing? It ain't the axe buddy, it's a skill issue. I've split more timber than you have hair on your ass and fiskars are top 5 on the market, and frankly if you disagree you really have no fking clue what you're talking about
@@dillonqaphsiel7977 well yes the edges roll on the Fiskars axes a little bit more to some of the others Yes but this type of axe is a splitting axe It doesn’t have to be sharp. I’ve got one It’s blunt it’s got more nicks than this guys axe but it’s still splits if you’re splitting only it’s fine for that now if you chopping trees down and you’re using a chopping axe and they need to be pretty sharp and the edge can’t roll on them
@@dillonqaphsiel7977 what do you suggest? I keep seeing a lot of people using fiskars x25, x27, and their 8lb maul to split wood. Don't see many other people using other brands unless they got the money for it, and even then I've seen comparisons between the more expensive ones and the fiskars axes, and the fiskars usually either perform as good or better than almost anything else more expensive, and blows anything that's cheaper or in its price point out of the water.
I started using mine just as it came, with the edge thin but flat not razor sharp. It worked better then and now than any other axe Ive ever used. still using it, never sharpened it even once.
@@SyntheticStuntMan I've got a budget splitter axe that has a blade shaped like it's really good, but I have to constantly use my grenade splitter to open the logs up due to having logs that have loads of knots. I think I'm watchin too much of the x27 like on a shopping channel when they show knives that can cut tin cans and when i use it they are blunt as a wooden ruler! Hahaha. Really tempted to buy this x27.
@@deputyvanhalen6386 you arent likely to find any splitter thats good on knotted up wood...Ive never seen one that worked on knots. on knotted wood I usually use my chainsaw to cut it to half the length I normally burn then notch it with the chainsaw and split in that notch with my splitting axe. that works most of the time.
It’s a great axe if you take into consideration how soft the steel is and judge yourself accordingly. Often rounds have dirt/rocks on the ends, if you strike on these dirty ends you will inevitably end up with edge damage
It's a fine axe. Nothing wrong with it at all. The steel is a little bit on the softer side but it holds up absolutely fine for splitting once you knock that factory edge off. Like a minute or 2 with a sharpening puck to barely convex the edge and get rid of the compromised steel right at the apex is all that's needed. I've had the older all black 37" version for like a decade and this never happens to me unless I bury the axe in the dirt or the wood is literally covered in sand and rocks etc. Anyone watching should do themselves a favor and disregard this "advice", you'll never want to use a maul again after using the Fiskars. I've split every type of wood that grows in my area with these things and they work extremely well. Everything from Hickory, Oak and Ash to Red Cedar. Keep it out of the dirt and don't smash it through rock covered wood and it will hold up just fine. This guy is acting like this is a cutting axe
@obelixpfeifenreiniger2863 I have the older version of the x27 that's all black and I have the x25. I've beat the snot out of them, especially my older one. They're extremely durable axes. Like I said in my original post, if you're halfway competent at sharpening, just take 2 minutes to knock the factory edge off just a little bit (I'm talking a very slight microbevel) to get rid of the compromised steel at the apex and toughen the edge. I promise if you do that the edge won't take damage unless you put it in the dirt or hit a rock etc. like any axe would. I have their hatchet and the x11 too. All of them are very good. There's nothing wrong with them at all
@@maxsanchez2339 and what of everyone else who buys one expecting it to function only for it to fold like it was made as a third grade arts and crafts project? And when they reach out to Fiskers they will say 🖕
Some people buy a baseball glove and expect it to be game ready....some people buy a fiskars axe and expect the edge not to need a quick touch up before use. The missed step is a tiny bit of knowledge. It's a shame you didn't know that and have given a bad review, they are a great axe that will serve for years after being initially prepped.
Lightly blunt the very sharp factory edge then reprofile it to a move obtuse angle. It only needs a small secondary angle to support the new working edge. The reason for the factory edge rolling then chipping is because they are ground to a very long narrow wedge, the working edge is too thin and has no supporting angle.
@@m3nathan The steel at the apex is fatigued from the grinding process too. It simply needs to be slightly convexed with a sharpening puck and this doesn't happen. Like you said it just needs slightly stronger geometry at the apex and it's all good. I prefer a slight convex to a microbevel like you're describing. Hand sharpening an axe will always lead to a slight convex and that's what you want
I have two of the x27's and the sledge hammer. I had my black x27 for almost 6 years, i bought the orange x27 earlier this year and the steel rolled on me too. After touching it up, it holds its edge now. I almost thought it was a different steel than my black one, it seems to be a lighter color (grey) on the steel.
@@SammyBoyo nope just recognize Fiskars as the trash they are. A 20 Walmart axe will last your whole life but these things will break like an expensive Lego set left with an unsupervised child
@@SammyBoyo bruh they are made out of soft metal 🤦 if your doing any real work with them they can and will break day one. Ever seen a logger or a firefighter use one? Of course not.
Ive had a little x15 bouncing around in my truck for years now. Cleared fallen trees from roads. Split firewood. Gotten a Lot of use outta that thing. Best cheap little axe I've ever bought and if it ever gets ruined/lost/stolen its no problem to replace.
Cheap axe? Thats funny It cost a month of minimum wage in my country There are way more cheaper options than this Ofc its not chinese made but dont get me wrong Fiskars is a good product but its just waaayyy too expensive here 😅
I got two Fiskars, X5 and X7 and they have held Up very well, it's true that steel is a bit soft, but it's good to resharpen easy and get back to business... Today just ordered a Fiskars X10 cause i need a bit more power to process bigger pieces of wood.
I think the edge is just weakened from whoever put the edge on it and grinded it too hard and let it get too hot. Probably won't happen again after you reprofile
Or he was splitting on the ground and running it into the ground. Improper form. These fiskars axes are world class indestructible. I smell a rat. To be fair to the guy who made the video, the edge may have been a tad too sharp, the wood he split may have been very hard. But regardless, it ain't the fault of the axe, ultimately. Good gear
I have an x17, i sharpened it really well one time years ago, it has taken some serious punishment. Not hitting the ground! I mean cutting wood, for years and years and years. The best axe I've ever owned..
Nah the edge just needed to be hit with a sharpening puck to remove the fatigued steel at the apex and slightly convex it and it would have been fine. It looks like he probably buried this thing in the dirt or the wood he was splitting was filthy. I've had one for a decade and they hold up fine with a proper edge on them
Some people don't teach their kids to tune a factory edge. 🙄 This axe isn't beveled from the factory, which is obvious upon inspection. Give it a few passes on a carbide sharpener and a little filing if you like a convex edge. Tbh it splits fine without any tuning too. Learn how to use your cutting tools and they'll serve you well. Oh, and stop driving your edge into the ground.
These axes DO chip if you're hitting a lot of Hybrid wood, seen it happen myself here on the East Coast, but it's an extremely sharp blade, just part of the game.
That’s crazy cause i hit a rock with mine and then processed to chock firewood for the next 3 hours, didn’t even notice. Be careful with it it’s an axe not an xacto knife
Sounds like you shouldn't be around an axe if you're complaining that bad about a 50$ axe with a lifetime warranty. Try not hitting the ground and you won't have any problems.
I have been using Fiskars products for decades and have not had any trouble with them at all. I have a hatchet that has split way to big bits of wood i have been using it just about every week for 15 plus years never sharpened it and its still in great shape.
Love that everyone before me has mentioned to not hit the ground. User error... "My airbags deployed on a brand new car during its first accident." Checks out
Io sono 5 anni che uso una x25 e ci spaccio dai 40 a 60 q di legna l’anno, io gli passo la lima due volte l’anno perché è un materiale tenero rispetto alle ascie comuni,rimane comunque una delle migliori ascie in commercio
I bought that hatchet and share the same experience after one frozen piece of maple. Now it is just for camp trips in the middle of the summer 😂. Junk!
I had a Fiskars A6, a hatchet same size and shape as the X7. Chopped a dry piece of beech wood. Deep dents along the edge. To sharpen that out makes the edge substantially thicker and less effective at chopping. Maybe they are not all the same regarding the heat treatment. The steel is a bit softer for sure. I do know that it's advised to sharpen the edge a bit convex before using it. Maybe that would have protected the edge..?
Helps when the head isnt stuck in the dirt lmao. Used one for almost 2 years for firewood and logging and they work wonderfully. Havent had an issue with mine at all.
Whateva it’s cheap so it’s probably factory decarbidization from overly hot grinding or thin edge during heat treat-grind back 3mm on a hand sander in a vise (unsafe be careful) while dipping it in ice water every few seconds to not detemper from heat and the steel will be harder hopefully and it won’t happen again. Still sucks and is a consequence of mass scale whatever, but there’s no way the heat treatment and steel are going to be horrible, guarantee the carbon just left the outermost skin from inattentive factory heating and such
I have an x27 and have split many cords of firewood for the last ten years (probably 30) I for the first time need to sharpen the thing. I want a gransfor bruks splitting ax but have yet to drop the coin on one. I however am really happy with the performance of my $50 ax.
I don't agree with you. I have fiskars X13 for camping. Chopping woods, doing almost everything on camping, I mean hard work and for me this is the best axe ever
They have lifetime warrantys. I got the fiskars maul 10 months ago, snapped at the neck earlier today on bamboo roots, and got a shiny new one for free
I'm back to tell you you are wrong the fiskars splitting axe is king. I have over a dozen splitters and nothing comes close to fiskars. Try to keep it out of the ground
Every axe I ever had did that it's just part of the hardening process sometimes a little over heat can happen when the factory grinds the bit and it can take some temper out. My gransfors bruks was like that and all of my other 30 some axes have had so.thing similar at one time or another
I’m specifically after an axe or hatchet that can be used probably 90% of the time one handed to split hard dry knotty Eucalypt wind fall branches that we have scattered all over the forest floor. I want to split the branches by chopping them along the side of the branch with the blade parallel along the grain so the branch and the handle of the axe are in line with each other. Intend of use a larger log as the ‘anvil’ to chop the branches on. I would also occasionally want to use the axe for some chopping and bucking of some heavier branches if I can’t drag the whole branch to camp so I like the idea of using the axe two handed occasionally when necessary. I want to carry it as a pack or belt axe so portability and weight are also important. What’s the best model and size of fiskars axe you would recommend to chop through hard knotty branches successfully but also not weighing a ton? Thanks for any suggestions
Don’t hit the ground
hahahahahahha
😂😂😂
JAJA
Very clever 👌 Who could have thought that?
😅🤣😂 pew, pew
It’s an axe, not a chefs knife. I just bought an x25 this morning and used it for 6 hours straight and it is hands down the best splitting axe I’ve ever used.
Same here, have been using it for years. Really good axe
@@J2I3H yeah I don’t know what this guy is talking about the blade chipping and rolling. I split about 3 cord’s worth with mine so far and my blade never chipped or rolled. He must’ve hit something with it that was embedded in the wood or something
Same here , have a little one like that and a 8lb fiskars been using them for three years and love them to death. Way better then any other mal or ax in the market. And we chop enough would to heat a 2000 sq ft shop plus a decent size house in a Illinois winter. So it is not like we dont use them.
Same here. Bought Fiskars axe for 60 Euros and definitely worth it. have been splitting wood with it for 3 years.
Your full of crap
Yessssss, let's blame the axe for operator error.
Na these things are trash definitely the axe
@@dillonqaphsiel7977it’s not this idiot strikes towards the ground
@@dillonqaphsiel7977 Bro, did you marry a fiskars axe and then it divorced you and took your kids and house and left you with nothing?
Why do you argue with every commenter that was happy with their fiskars? I have used one fore years with no problems. You have to work with it, maintain it. Of course there are better axes, but for non professionals and for this price, it's hard to find much better.
Is it so hard to believe that people have used this axe succsessfully?
@user-zn9ke8um8s lol soft metal - doesn’t hold an edge - easily bent handle - can’t replace handle - having to buy new one instead of keeping the same axe for life. lol keep coping 😂
Edit: 🖕
@@dillonqaphsiel7977just say you can’t aim for nothing😂
Bought it. Absolutely fantastic axe. No problems at all
Cope
@@dillonqaphsiel7977oof you definitely bought this axe and don’t know how to use it😂
@@Masterkuush used plenty of axes. Axes you could work with for a life time and never have any issues. You over here bragging about an axe that breaks easily.
@@dillonqaphsiel7977 you're coping hard
Actually, the blade of the axe is soft. It’s designed to be dinged and slightly chipped, as it’s soft metal. I have had my X27 almost 12 years with zero issues, the bit looks way, way worse than yours there, and it blows through wood as good as it did on day 1.
Best axe you will ever own! Hands down best axe out there!
Bro bragging about having a axe made out of playdough 😂
@@dillonqaphsiel7977 you don't want an axe head that is too hard or if you hit anything at all other than soft wood, it will chip really bad and shatter. Softer metals dull quicker but are heartier when it comes to using it day to day splitting and chopping wood. Especially for a splitting maul and splitting axe, you don't need it to be perfectly sharp. It will do the job as it is, and last longer overall than an axe with a head that is too hard. You really don't want a piece of the axe head chipping off and getting embedded into one of your body parts. It sucks. My grandfather knows all too well how much that sucks, and by extension, I can see how much it sucks.
@@dillonqaphsiel7977you bragging all over these comments that you don’t know how to use an axe🤣
@@dillonqaphsiel7977You have no idea what you're talking about 😂😂
I own 2 fiskars axes. Best axes I’ve ever owned.
Lol probably some dirt of sand on the log
I had to reprofile most of my Cold Steel products. I didn't cry.
I actually got a sharp Trail Boss, which is nice. I don't expect axes to have much of an edge when I get them really.
Go buy a $400 axe with no warranty and chip and roll that edge too
Na these are the only axes that do that. They must have it painted patented 😂
@@dillonqaphsiel7977painted patented? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@WalterEKurtz-kp2jf the joke is that Fiskers is bad by design. As though a rolling edge is a trademark of there axes.
@@dillonqaphsiel7977 Are you another guy that can't help but hit the ground on every swing?
It ain't the axe buddy, it's a skill issue.
I've split more timber than you have hair on your ass and fiskars are top 5 on the market, and frankly if you disagree you really have no fking clue what you're talking about
@@dillonqaphsiel7977 well yes the edges roll on the Fiskars axes a little bit more to some of the others Yes but this type of axe is a splitting axe It doesn’t have to be sharp. I’ve got one It’s blunt it’s got more nicks than this guys axe but it’s still splits if you’re splitting only it’s fine for that now if you chopping trees down and you’re using a chopping axe and they need to be pretty sharp and the edge can’t roll on them
It doesn't even look chiped
Obviously is.
Best splitting axes I have ever used and have lasted for years.
Then you must have used it to split feathers. These would break like a Lego set at the sight of wood.
@@dillonqaphsiel7977troll
@@dillonqaphsiel7977Wow, you're comments are hilarious, you've never split timber in your life😂😂
This man should've bought himself an axe made for little girls instead.
Looks like he did. These axes would be great to have tea with Mrs. Buttercups but if he want to chop wood he's gonna need a mans axe.
@@dillonqaphsiel7977 what do you suggest? I keep seeing a lot of people using fiskars x25, x27, and their 8lb maul to split wood. Don't see many other people using other brands unless they got the money for it, and even then I've seen comparisons between the more expensive ones and the fiskars axes, and the fiskars usually either perform as good or better than almost anything else more expensive, and blows anything that's cheaper or in its price point out of the water.
@@dillonqaphsiel7977Aw look at the little baby so mad the kiddo has to comment on things he can’t even properly use🤣😂
@@dillonqaphsiel7977holy crap the pure copium you were huffing the day you replied to every single post.
Lifetime warranty
Oh no, the axe I have for splitting got a little roll in it’s edge, I can’t use it for that anymore! 😱😂
They must be tuned upon purchasing. They are not ready to be used until you sharpen it yourself. Don’t hit the ground either.
I started using mine just as it came, with the edge thin but flat not razor sharp. It worked better then and now than any other axe Ive ever used. still using it, never sharpened it even once.
@@SyntheticStuntManI'd be worried about wrecking it if I sharpened it from new!?!
@@deputyvanhalen6386 no, but try it first you might be surprised.
@@SyntheticStuntMan I've got a budget splitter axe that has a blade shaped like it's really good, but I have to constantly use my grenade splitter to open the logs up due to having logs that have loads of knots. I think I'm watchin too much of the x27 like on a shopping channel when they show knives that can cut tin cans and when i use it they are blunt as a wooden ruler! Hahaha. Really tempted to buy this x27.
@@deputyvanhalen6386 you arent likely to find any splitter thats good on knotted up wood...Ive never seen one that worked on knots. on knotted wood I usually use my chainsaw to cut it to half the length I normally burn then notch it with the chainsaw and split in that notch with my splitting axe. that works most of the time.
It’s a great axe if you take into consideration how soft the steel is and judge yourself accordingly. Often rounds have dirt/rocks on the ends, if you strike on these dirty ends you will inevitably end up with edge damage
It's a fine axe. Nothing wrong with it at all. The steel is a little bit on the softer side but it holds up absolutely fine for splitting once you knock that factory edge off. Like a minute or 2 with a sharpening puck to barely convex the edge and get rid of the compromised steel right at the apex is all that's needed. I've had the older all black 37" version for like a decade and this never happens to me unless I bury the axe in the dirt or the wood is literally covered in sand and rocks etc. Anyone watching should do themselves a favor and disregard this "advice", you'll never want to use a maul again after using the Fiskars. I've split every type of wood that grows in my area with these things and they work extremely well. Everything from Hickory, Oak and Ash to Red Cedar. Keep it out of the dirt and don't smash it through rock covered wood and it will hold up just fine. This guy is acting like this is a cutting axe
Which ones do you have? I just bought my dad a 27x for birthday, but i havent used it yet. People say its Bad.
@obelixpfeifenreiniger2863 I have the older version of the x27 that's all black and I have the x25. I've beat the snot out of them, especially my older one. They're extremely durable axes. Like I said in my original post, if you're halfway competent at sharpening, just take 2 minutes to knock the factory edge off just a little bit (I'm talking a very slight microbevel) to get rid of the compromised steel at the apex and toughen the edge. I promise if you do that the edge won't take damage unless you put it in the dirt or hit a rock etc. like any axe would. I have their hatchet and the x11 too. All of them are very good. There's nothing wrong with them at all
Mine works great, hit the concrete by mistake, chiped the floor, axe is ok. Best axe I've ever owned.
It’s for splitting not chopping. The edge of mine is completely gone and it still splits great
It's an axe not a maul. The only thing these axes can do is rot in a landfill
@@dillonqaphsiel7977 calm down killer, don’t like em don’t buy em. Easy as that.
@@maxsanchez2339 and what of everyone else who buys one expecting it to function only for it to fold like it was made as a third grade arts and crafts project? And when they reach out to Fiskers they will say 🖕
@@dillonqaphsiel7977what do you suggest?
@@dillonqaphsiel7977aww baby boy is so mad😂
Some people buy a baseball glove and expect it to be game ready....some people buy a fiskars axe and expect the edge not to need a quick touch up before use.
The missed step is a tiny bit of knowledge.
It's a shame you didn't know that and have given a bad review, they are a great axe that will serve for years after being initially prepped.
Lightly blunt the very sharp factory edge then reprofile it to a move obtuse angle.
It only needs a small secondary angle to support the new working edge.
The reason for the factory edge rolling then chipping is because they are ground to a very long narrow wedge, the working edge is too thin and has no supporting angle.
@@m3nathan The steel at the apex is fatigued from the grinding process too. It simply needs to be slightly convexed with a sharpening puck and this doesn't happen. Like you said it just needs slightly stronger geometry at the apex and it's all good. I prefer a slight convex to a microbevel like you're describing. Hand sharpening an axe will always lead to a slight convex and that's what you want
I have two of the x27's and the sledge hammer. I had my black x27 for almost 6 years, i bought the orange x27 earlier this year and the steel rolled on me too. After touching it up, it holds its edge now. I almost thought it was a different steel than my black one, it seems to be a lighter color (grey) on the steel.
Any axe or knife can chip if used wrong
You know what upsets me this idea that a bladed tool doesnt require maintenance
You need more then maintenance with these. You need a whole ER team to keep this axe clinging to life.
@@dillonqaphsiel7977Are you his boyfriend or something? 😂 You're defending this dude in the comments with your life
@@SammyBoyo nope just recognize Fiskars as the trash they are. A 20 Walmart axe will last your whole life but these things will break like an expensive Lego set left with an unsupervised child
@@dillonqaphsiel7977 Fiskars are fairly tard proof. You must be worse than Lenny if you managed to break one easily.
@@SammyBoyo bruh they are made out of soft metal 🤦 if your doing any real work with them they can and will break day one. Ever seen a logger or a firefighter use one? Of course not.
Ive had a little x15 bouncing around in my truck for years now. Cleared fallen trees from roads. Split firewood. Gotten a Lot of use outta that thing. Best cheap little axe I've ever bought and if it ever gets ruined/lost/stolen its no problem to replace.
Its normal for axe to scratch from woodcutting, thats why they invented sharpening tools
I've had to re profile every single axe I've ever bought because none of them came sharp enough or with good enough geometry.
That’s still a great axe u probably hit rock with it if not just just reprofile it it’ll be fine it’s a cheap axe what do u expect
Huh.. $70 cheap
Cheap axe? Thats funny
It cost a month of minimum wage in my country
There are way more cheaper options than this
Ofc its not chinese made but dont get me wrong
Fiskars is a good product but its just waaayyy too expensive here 😅
I got two Fiskars, X5 and X7 and they have held Up very well, it's true that steel is a bit soft, but it's good to resharpen easy and get back to business... Today just ordered a Fiskars X10 cause i need a bit more power to process bigger pieces of wood.
I think the edge is just weakened from whoever put the edge on it and grinded it too hard and let it get too hot. Probably won't happen again after you reprofile
These are mass produced axes. Pretty sure there aren’t people grinding the individually by hand.
Or he was splitting on the ground and running it into the ground. Improper form. These fiskars axes are world class indestructible. I smell a rat.
To be fair to the guy who made the video, the edge may have been a tad too sharp, the wood he split may have been very hard. But regardless, it ain't the fault of the axe, ultimately. Good gear
@@ManInTheWoods76 yeah mine has been fine. Haven't had any problems
@@whengrapespop5728 many factory made things have someone run it over a grinder quickly, or a robot does it , same difference
@@yoman2854 We’re not talking factory made, we’re talking mass produced.
definition of a keyboard warrior
Thats pretty miniscule damage and is pretty typical. Its why sharpening is a necessity.
Just give it a slight convex. The edge on fiskars is really sharp.
the factory flat edge is what I started with and have used it for years and NEVER sharpened it once.
That one is probably defective. Maybe it accidentally skipped the heat treating process. Mine kicks absolute ass.
I have an x17, i sharpened it really well one time years ago, it has taken some serious punishment. Not hitting the ground! I mean cutting wood, for years and years and years. The best axe I've ever owned..
Not sure if youre chopping rocks, my fiskars axes are top notch,
Ask them to replace it. I own several Fiskars and love them. Good luck
Fabulous axe’s. I use them every day. Never any problems at all
You hit dirt, lol.
Sweat pants and tennis shoes told the story for me
I have a fiskars X25, I've used it a lot, works great.
Judging by how clean and white those shoes are, you probably don’t know how to use that tool 😂
Happens to a Granfors Bruk too if you hit rocks with it. It’s not solely the axe’s fault.
Thats peculiar.. That obviously should not happen. Perhaps they missed a step in the hardening process??
Nah the edge just needed to be hit with a sharpening puck to remove the fatigued steel at the apex and slightly convex it and it would have been fine. It looks like he probably buried this thing in the dirt or the wood he was splitting was filthy. I've had one for a decade and they hold up fine with a proper edge on them
Had mine for three years, best axe I have ever used.
This is in fact a great axe. I have split 7 winters worth of firewood with mine and I keep it sharp.
Some people don't teach their kids to tune a factory edge. 🙄
This axe isn't beveled from the factory, which is obvious upon inspection. Give it a few passes on a carbide sharpener and a little filing if you like a convex edge. Tbh it splits fine without any tuning too.
Learn how to use your cutting tools and they'll serve you well. Oh, and stop driving your edge into the ground.
These axes DO chip if you're hitting a lot of Hybrid wood, seen it happen myself here on the East Coast, but it's an extremely sharp blade, just part of the game.
A axe is never supposed to chip. Try a real axe and you'll realize how garbage these are.
@@dillonqaphsiel7977it’s ok baby boy. We’re using these axes for whole trees, not just what your daddy wanted you to cut😂
people swear by them. people who rely on axes. shit happens. at least the handle will never break or loosen.
When you mistake an axe for a kitchen knife...
Have several of them for years - no issues
Bro probably hit more rocks than wood😂😂😂
That’s crazy cause i hit a rock with mine and then processed to chock firewood for the next 3 hours, didn’t even notice. Be careful with it it’s an axe not an xacto knife
I’ve been using mine for 10 years. Just split red oak for 4 hours last week. No issues at all. Love it.
Just file it down for like 5 minutes it's a tool not a fashion piece... meant to be used, abused, sharpened and then used again.
Sounds like you shouldn't be around an axe if you're complaining that bad about a 50$ axe with a lifetime warranty. Try not hitting the ground and you won't have any problems.
After seeing this it makes me want to run out and buy one.
File off the burrs (or don't) and keep splitting. It's a tool, not a jewel. My X27 has been great.
I split 4 face cord in just a few hours with that axe... It's bad ass
Ive now bought 3 different ones. When you hit the ground you're bound to damage it. Pretty good product actually.
So how did the blade chip and roll? I can guarantee you it was not from splitting wood
Sounds like an issue between the Axe handle and the ground...
I have been using Fiskars products for decades and have not had any trouble with them at all. I have a hatchet that has split way to big bits of wood i have been using it just about every week for 15 plus years never sharpened it and its still in great shape.
Love that everyone before me has mentioned to not hit the ground.
User error...
"My airbags deployed on a brand new car during its first accident."
Checks out
By far the best axe I’ve ever used to split wood definitely recommend to everyone I’ve already split two 10ft pine cords and still holding strong
To be fair, a good portion of budget axes need a good sharpening or reprofiling right out of the store.
Did you hit dirt
Io sono 5 anni che uso una x25 e ci spaccio dai 40 a 60 q di legna l’anno, io gli passo la lima due volte l’anno perché è un materiale tenero rispetto alle ascie comuni,rimane comunque una delle migliori ascie in commercio
I bought that hatchet and share the same experience after one frozen piece of maple.
Now it is just for camp trips in the middle of the summer 😂. Junk!
I had a Fiskars A6, a hatchet same size and shape as the X7. Chopped a dry piece of beech wood. Deep dents along the edge. To sharpen that out makes the edge substantially thicker and less effective at chopping.
Maybe they are not all the same regarding the heat treatment. The steel is a bit softer for sure. I do know that it's advised to sharpen the edge a bit convex before using it. Maybe that would have protected the edge..?
Helps when the head isnt stuck in the dirt lmao. Used one for almost 2 years for firewood and logging and they work wonderfully. Havent had an issue with mine at all.
I’ve had that exact axe for a year and only had to sharpen it twice
I don’t it’s the axe that is a problem.
I use my lil 23.5" for landscaping, it has kisses sooo many rocks, missing chunks and rolls, it still cuts roots and stumps like butter💯
Whateva it’s cheap so it’s probably factory decarbidization from overly hot grinding or thin edge during heat treat-grind back 3mm on a hand sander in a vise (unsafe be careful) while dipping it in ice water every few seconds to not detemper from heat and the steel will be harder hopefully and it won’t happen again. Still sucks and is a consequence of mass scale whatever, but there’s no way the heat treatment and steel are going to be horrible, guarantee the carbon just left the outermost skin from inattentive factory heating and such
You sound like someone who doesn't know how to use an axe. rule number 1: don't hit the ground.
I’ve had one for 5 years, works fine, never had an issue..
Sharpen it and get on with life...x27 would have been a better choice. ALWAYS expect to work on a new ax
The only difference between the 25 and the 27 is the length
Cut your wood on a block and not into the grass with stones in
This has been my go to the last three winters. A fine tool if you're not concerned about making splitting wood your entire personality.
I have split many many cords with mine. And I mean just the one. It has lasted longer than any axe or maul I have owned. I am not a casual user.
I have multiple of fiskars axes, no issues with the blades as long as you keep them outta the dirt.
I have an x27 and have split many cords of firewood for the last ten years (probably 30) I for the first time need to sharpen the thing. I want a gransfor bruks splitting ax but have yet to drop the coin on one. I however am really happy with the performance of my $50 ax.
I don't agree with you. I have fiskars X13 for camping. Chopping woods, doing almost everything on camping, I mean hard work and for me this is the best axe ever
They have lifetime warrantys. I got the fiskars maul 10 months ago, snapped at the neck earlier today on bamboo roots, and got a shiny new one for free
You don’t need to sharpen a splitter it’s pointless it’s a giant wedge it’s definitely does not need to be shaving sharp
Its a splitting axe ,not for cutting down trees , a small chip will make absolutely no difference to how it works
Few strokes with the 'ol hand file......
It’s called ownership . Own that you don’t know how to use it and hit the ground. Use a splitting block. Best axes I’ve owned
Please pay someone to chop your wood ,don't get hurt yourself 👍
I'm back to tell you you are wrong the fiskars splitting axe is king. I have over a dozen splitters and nothing comes close to fiskars. Try to keep it out of the ground
Absolutely hands down the best axe I ever owned. I now own the machete 2 splitting axes and a hatchet. Worth the money.
My Fiskars looks like that on the blade but works like a gem. I hope it ends up working for you, mate!
Every axe I ever had did that it's just part of the hardening process sometimes a little over heat can happen when the factory grinds the bit and it can take some temper out. My gransfors bruks was like that and all of my other 30 some axes have had so.thing similar at one time or another
Maybe stay in the kitchen. My X27 has served me well even with Australian hardwood.
I’m specifically after an axe or hatchet that can be used probably 90% of the time one handed to split hard dry knotty Eucalypt wind fall branches that we have scattered all over the forest floor. I want to split the branches by chopping them along the side of the branch with the blade parallel along the grain so the branch and the handle of the axe are in line with each other. Intend of use a larger log as the ‘anvil’ to chop the branches on.
I would also occasionally want to use the axe for some chopping and bucking of some heavier branches if I can’t drag the whole branch to camp so I like the idea of using the axe two handed occasionally when necessary.
I want to carry it as a pack or belt axe so portability and weight are also important.
What’s the best model and size of fiskars axe you would recommend to chop through hard knotty branches successfully but also not weighing a ton? Thanks for any suggestions
Carrying the x25 and build some muscles. Work hard and don’t be lazy
Yeah I used the non x version splitter and had no issues, and I'm by no means a woodsman. User error
Life time warranty take a picture and send to company
Like I use a no-nonsense harborfreight splitting axe I just make sure the axe is covered in waxe before I swing
Have 3 of their axes, and never had a problem out of any of them that really sucks
Any grit in the logs? Or in the ground?
I just cut down a tree that was 3 feet in diameter with a fiskers axe and it looks brand new
I've had the same axe for years...not a single problem with it.