Just left the local dealership yesterday. Went in for just an oil change. 4 and a half hours later. Oil change is not done. My 2017 Tundra has 32k miles. They said that I need a new battery. $328. New pads, rotors and calipers, new front struts, rear shocks, TMPD sensors all around , cabin filter, and air filer. Grand total!!! $4384.00. Told them to stick it. My oil change cost me $148. Acton TOYOTA, OF Littleton MASS. Never have I heard such BS!!!
Thank you for posting this! I just did my own brakes (pad replacement only) on my Subaru BRZ, had my Tundra in for an oil change and they suggested pads and rotors for my rear brakes - a 2020 with only 35k miles. Seems to be a theme with these dealers. This looks super similar to the Bembo BRZ job I just did. Off to buy parts. They quoted me $600 for the parts/labor. Booooo
What did you torque the caliper brackets to? AllData says 133 ft*lbs and to replace the bolts. But that seems out of line with other information I have read.
Question. I got. Same tundra on 35s. Oem breaks wear out fast and always make noise even when new. Will your setup change anything for me? I wanted to do a big break system but can't find anything
BBK are super expensive and not always worth it. TRD may still make one. I would try stainless lines, pick a high quality rotor, and good pads from Hawk or EBC. Change the fluid and lube everything good on install. This should give about the best results, next to a BBK!
Are you still on these same pads and rotors? How have they been holding up, and how many miles have they gone in the 2 years? Stopping performance? Would you buy them again? Sorry for all the questions lol
@@DIESELLBZ same pads and rotors. Got a slight squeak but may just need clean and relube. I would def buy again over OEM for sure. Maybe 15k miles so far.
@ thanks for such a great video! I think I'm gonna go that same route.. I ordered TRD pads like 8 months ago and they finally shipped. I suppose I should do the rotors too since I don't really wanna resurface them. I see many others but most come with the pads. Do you think that would be a good set up? Thanks man again great video! 👍🏼
If you don't have a jack tall enough. Bust out the factory bottle jack. After you've extended your bigger jack. Use the bottle jack to raise it up another inch or so. Then use Jack's stands.
Have a '17 Tundra, tow my 5000 lbs boat about half the year and unfortunately, I'm also a hot breaker of the daily. Have 74K and put my second set of pads/rotors on last summer. I have a crazy shimmy now after about 8 months. Will this setup last me a bit longer?
They are doing well for me! I don’t tow very often, but used a similar setup on my old Tacoma and really helped towing dirt bikes and desert toys. OEM would fade and pulsate coming down the grade. Switched to Hawk pads, and new centric premium rotors and never got that fade or shimmy again.
@@RoadPatina having issues with my powerstop Z36's after only a year. looking to go with this setup you got here. and squeeking in the rear? also softpedal ?
Z36’s are garbage in my experience. I do tow a bit, but they started to shimy bad at about 15k miles. Can’t remember what I tried next, but they’re not holding up that great either. Curious how many miles you’ve got on these rotors and hawk pads?
Honestly I didn’t notice a difference with stock pads versus hawk. I actually think the factory pads are better than hawk. They last 90k plus pending on your driving habits.
It’s not for sale, but everything has a price! It would have to be a lot of cash or a crazy NSX, Supra, GTR sort of trade. Just picked up another one for the channel… stay tuned!
Sorry my friend, but you installed the rotor backwards. Many of these cross drilled or slotted rotor kits come with two of the same rotor rather than left/right directional rotors. The slots on the rotors are to be facing backward. Not forward. This is to help the gases from from brake pads during heavy braking to escape outward rather than the slots being forward facing as you installed them which would bring air and water into the contact surface of the pads and rotor. 🙏
I have always had poor results when going aftermarket on brakes, especially with toyota. OEM pads are always the best. Not even sure why you are doing brakes yet. Your OEM stuff still has 50% life. I guess you needed to make content for content's sake. I'm out
There are several online test and while Toyota is near the top, and pretty incredible for most, there are a few better options but at significantly more cost. Toyota makes a great product
Just left the local dealership yesterday. Went in for just an oil change. 4 and a half hours later. Oil change is not done. My 2017 Tundra has 32k miles. They said that I need a new battery. $328. New pads, rotors and calipers, new front struts, rear shocks, TMPD sensors all around , cabin filter, and air filer. Grand total!!! $4384.00. Told them to stick it. My oil change cost me $148. Acton TOYOTA, OF Littleton MASS. Never have I heard such BS!!!
Luckily the previous owner kept my truck in the toyota dealer, ME I will find a very good mechanic!
I always put some anti-seize on the surface of the wheel hub to help from rotor sticking next time.
Yes! And wire brush away the crust!
@@RoadPatina absolutely! That rust can cause havoc
Thank you for posting this! I just did my own brakes (pad replacement only) on my Subaru BRZ, had my Tundra in for an oil change and they suggested pads and rotors for my rear brakes - a 2020 with only 35k miles. Seems to be a theme with these dealers. This looks super similar to the Bembo BRZ job I just did. Off to buy parts.
They quoted me $600 for the parts/labor. Booooo
@@303MoTo same same just bigger and heavier parts! Give it a go
What’s the torque value for the caliper bolts? Sorry if I missed it. Thanks!
Does it matter if the first clip goes on top or bottom mine had it on top
subi/yota gang all day
Amen to that!
I do not put any wood on top of lift. Just spray any undercoat if you worry about peel off.
Your life deserves way more
What did you torque the caliper brackets to? AllData says 133 ft*lbs and to replace the bolts. But that seems out of line with other information I have read.
Great job. I've got to do this soon.
Could you let us know what you torqued the caliper bolts and lug nuts at please?
I do not recall, just ask google!
Question. I got. Same tundra on 35s. Oem breaks wear out fast and always make noise even when new. Will your setup change anything for me? I wanted to do a big break system but can't find anything
BBK are super expensive and not always worth it. TRD may still make one. I would try stainless lines, pick a high quality rotor, and good pads from Hawk or EBC. Change the fluid and lube everything good on install. This should give about the best results, next to a BBK!
@@RoadPatina thank you
@@RoadPatina
Are you still on these same pads and rotors? How have they been holding up, and how many miles have they gone in the 2 years? Stopping performance? Would you buy them again? Sorry for all the questions lol
@@DIESELLBZ same pads and rotors. Got a slight squeak but may just need clean and relube. I would def buy again over OEM for sure. Maybe 15k miles so far.
Thanks for the input, and great video. Do you have a link for the kit you used?
@ thank you! I bought the rotors and pads on tire rack. I should have added stainless lines. Next time!
How did these hold up overtime? The rotors
@@lukealdrich4780 holding up really good! Got a little squeak but prob need clean and lube.
@ thanks for such a great video! I think I'm gonna go that same route.. I ordered TRD pads like 8 months ago and they finally shipped. I suppose I should do the rotors too since I don't really wanna resurface them. I see many others but most come with the pads. Do you think that would be a good set up? Thanks man again great video! 👍🏼
@@lukealdrich4780 sounds good. I would get high quality rotors. My OEM rotors were resurfaced and warped fast. These have not warped at all.
@@RoadPatina awesome, got em ordered and looking forward to the install thanks to your vid. And advice. Thank ya much.
If you don't have a jack tall enough. Bust out the factory bottle jack. After you've extended your bigger jack. Use the bottle jack to raise it up another inch or so. Then use Jack's stands.
Good call!
@Road Patina I literally had to do that last week during my brake job. The 1.5 ton race jack wasn't gonna cut it.
I’m a year late, but I will being doing that. Thank you sir
did you have to remove the wheel speed sensor ?
I don’t think so. Maybe if it needs to be moved out of harms way it does not hurt.
Hey man, how are these holding up 1 year later?
Really well! No shudder at all. Once and a while I get a slight squeak. May just need to relube the sliders.
are u suppose to have break cylinder open?
I like to keep it open when compressing the caliper pistons. Just make sure it does not spill over!
Has the braking distance increased? Is this a upgrade for towing?
Distance feels less and less brake fade compared to oem. Not officially tested of course!
How those rotors working for you looking for some good ones
I am impressed. Last ones warped like crazy and these are smooth as silk after a few thousand miles!
@@RoadPatina can I ask you one more ? Did you find these on Amazon along with pads?
@@jamesburroughs7248 I bought everything on tirerack!
Great video! Your truck is badass. I was thinking of getting the same rotors. How are they holding up. Any problems? Noises?
Not at all! Thanks!
Have a '17 Tundra, tow my 5000 lbs boat about half the year and unfortunately, I'm also a hot breaker of the daily. Have 74K and put my second set of pads/rotors on last summer. I have a crazy shimmy now after about 8 months. Will this setup last me a bit longer?
They are doing well for me! I don’t tow very often, but used a similar setup on my old Tacoma and really helped towing dirt bikes and desert toys. OEM would fade and pulsate coming down the grade. Switched to Hawk pads, and new centric premium rotors and never got that fade or shimmy again.
Awesome job! How are they holding up?
thanks! A little more dust than the OEM pads but ZERO vibrations!
@@RoadPatina having issues with my powerstop Z36's after only a year. looking to go with this setup you got here. and squeeking in the rear? also softpedal ?
@@Flipzco I did not see the best reviews on the z36 setup. Some people had issues. These seem to be doing great. Can’t wait to tow with them!
Z36’s are garbage in my experience. I do tow a bit, but they started to shimy bad at about 15k miles. Can’t remember what I tried next, but they’re not holding up that great either. Curious how many miles you’ve got on these rotors and hawk pads?
What kind of wheels are those? Size?
Check my other videos! 18” methods.
Honestly I didn’t notice a difference with stock pads versus hawk. I actually think the factory pads are better than hawk. They last 90k plus pending on your driving habits.
Hawks I had were loud until warmed up. Never had shudder with factory in both my tundras 08 and now 18
How have the brakes been working?
Holding up very well! Better than the oem pads and rotors. Still no vibrations after a few thousand miles. No towing feedback to report yet.
Part#’s?
You didn't have to bleed the brakes? That's what I hate the most about doing brake jobs.
No bleeding at all, just a few knuckles!
how much would you sell your subaru ?
It’s not for sale, but everything has a price! It would have to be a lot of cash or a crazy NSX, Supra, GTR sort of trade.
Just picked up another one for the channel… stay tuned!
Curious as to what a mechanic would charge for this.
$450-$650 depending on shop / warranties included on parts and labor
Thanks for the video. Just changed my front breaks. Your video helped me out alot. Keep up the great work.
Awesome I am glad it helped! Get you some diy
Why didn't you want to just do all four to get it all perfect at one time?
Lazy and broke!
@@RoadPatina I feel you! Hopefully we will make it thru the next two years.
@@RoadPatinaI like your honesty.
Sorry my friend, but you installed the rotor backwards. Many of these cross drilled or slotted rotor kits come with two of the same rotor rather than left/right directional rotors. The slots on the rotors are to be facing backward. Not forward. This is to help the gases from from brake pads during heavy braking to escape outward rather than the slots being forward facing as you installed them which would bring air and water into the contact surface of the pads and rotor. 🙏
FALSE! They were installed according to the manufacturers instructions.
@@RoadPatina The manufacturer is wrong. Go look at ANY well built rig. Sorry. Crappy company then.
Direction really makes no difference.
your rotor is on backwards
Nice job thanks
I have always had poor results when going aftermarket on brakes, especially with toyota. OEM pads are always the best. Not even sure why you are doing brakes yet. Your OEM stuff still has 50% life. I guess you needed to make content for content's sake. I'm out
There are several online test and while Toyota is near the top, and pretty incredible for most, there are a few better options but at significantly more cost. Toyota makes a great product