2 of them came off of the front tensioner. The other 2 came off of my cs donor chassis......taking apart anything to make the rwd look pretty. I put a plain jane tensioner on my CS 16fm since u can hardly see it.
I haven't been on carpet yet. we don't have a Carpet Track location. Although there is a Hobbytown(hobbystore) with a carpet track that we might go to sometime eventually.
Nice! I give you Props. with the real deal drifting. Having the car and setting it up for drift and actually drifting, it must be fun. I would love to go out and drift a Ke70. For the first 2 days when my suspension was still unmodified AFTER putting 4 full batteries through it I was doing very well at controlling and making smooth figure 8's and doughnut's with out a gyro. I went to the track (carpet) and quickly realized i need grippy tires and MORE Angle. Now i got The Angle Thanks to you!
That was the scariest part for me. I didn't start my holes until I was certain it was going to work. I took the steering screws/bolts out and checked, left,right, and center, like a zillion times!! (as in holding it in place by hand and moving it around.) Then when I was ready, I took the plunge. If I had known I could get 80, I wouldn't have made the first set of holes for 70. But after looking at the frd steering system, I knew it could be duplicated.
I have Tamiya TRF shocks with Sakura DS3 Springs Orange and White. As far as I am aware, Most shocks are a standard size. Yes, It's actually good that it has a small amount of play, but no more than 1mm or less of play. it's normal, I came to realize that it helps belts seat better. That front Shaft is pretty tricky, but I did use all the C clips. It actually helps to have a systematic order for removing it.
Hey Bluestar, First off i wanted to Thank you for all the help, but i need some more. lol. I installed 5mm spacers onto the shocktower like the video so that my shocks can sit closer to the motor. Problem: I dont have the same shocks as you I have the ones from eagle racing. My shocks hit the head of the screws that are attached to the spur gear holder. i removed the spur gear holder and screwed the spur gear without the spur gear holder to get some clearance which helps, But it still hits.
I ask because i was having a small issue and and i thought maybe i put the steering post in the wrong spot. But i figured it out. Thanks So much Dude. Im going to put the electronics on tomorrow and hopefully all is GREAT!
The front pulley is stock 16fm but i added a shaft collar(w/set screw) to hold it in place. Others can just keep the 2nd pulley in place or install spacers until they reach the C clip.
fantastic video! it's been a huge help (alongside robekensugi's Yamada-san R31FMRWD vid) to move my 16FM into the RWD world. I didn't think it was particularly viable on polished concrete, but I'm utterly impressed with what you've done! i'm currently moving some of these settings across to my own chassis and hope to be sliding like this soon, seeing as only 1 other person in my club has taken on the RWD challenge and is having limited results. question: eagle racing tyres make the difference?
When the steering goes full lock Past 70* and 80* to the right side, the steering arm hits the tire. For me, I had no other way around this other than moving the steering rack. I didn't want to extend the front suspension arms and change the offset of the front width, that would affect the fitment on all my bodies.
The only thing i can think of is Buying new shocks, Like Yours. I wouldnt mind upgrading nighter - What kind of shocks do you have? - Do you know of high quality shocks that are as thin or thinner than yours? - Does front spur gear shaft have any play (movement from left to right)? I ask because mine does, i might have missed a C clip when i installed it
Thanks for sharing your setup. I've been waiting for this since you teased us in your last video. Do you know where I can get the drill bit to make the screw recessed? I'm about 75% close to your setup now. I just need to move the steering rack and grind the knuckles down a bit further.
have you tried eqgle racing Tamiya soft and hards? the softs are probably the grippiest you can get with it still being a plastic tire. they are as fast as 50 50 and CS
I Must Say Thanks for creating this Video! But i don't understand why go through the trouble of moving the original location of the steering post. Wouldn't I be able to get the same angle by doing the following upgrades: 1) steering arm extension pieces 2) shaving the steering knuckle 3) adding the center rack 4)Moving the tower back 5mm so that there is clearance for the shock to be placed in the second hole from the inside. Does the original location of steering post not allow 80* angle
I was on vacation when you messaged me. Either today or tomorrow I'll drill my chassis plate. I found the tool that does the cone shape holes. It's called countersink drill bits. I'll be back with more details on size to use. Also, I wonder if you would be willing to make a tutorial on ways to cut, drill or shape Carbon Fiber without damaging the composite.
The original design of the steering doesnt allow the angle to go past 70* because the right wheel sits on steering ball pivot arm. So by moving in the swipers, i can get up to 80*. If the shocks placement werent an issue, i would have engineered 90 no ackerman. But im not a fan of the mono shock design for my taste or inverted, but i do think its cool for others.
1) Do you think 13* castor will work for RWD? 2) Did you have to Create a new ball end hole on the knuckle for the angle or just to make it more like the MST? 3)I hear your body is 190, what offset rims do you use? do you use spacers with that? I ask because I've had difficulty with bodys with this chassis including a 197 body. 4)How do you adjust rear toe? is that only possible with plastic parts?
Hey man, in the video 3:47-3:57 it shows the holes that you made on the deck. It seems that the right hole in video (the left steering post hole) was placed correctly By your spec's 7mm in and 2mm up. and that the other was a little off. Am i right?
1) it should, but unnecessary. 10 is enough 2) I tried different arrangement of parts until it worked. MST placement seemed to work well. 3)yes, body 190mm. wheels are 4mm. 4) you can buy suspension block from broadtech. if yours are RR0 then get -2 for the rear front one. Or you can get the little adjustable plastic bits from broadtech. Rear toe isn't set in stone, it's just what I have that works for me at the moment.
For a while i was ordering different tires looking for soft one's like that when all along broad tech was selling them... for cheap too! I drift on untreated/unsealed marble floors in my house. i think the marble is grippier than polished concrete because the soft's run too fast on my marble. ( i haven't found a polished floor around were i live that i could drift without getting kicked out). eagle hard's front. street jam medium's rear. In your videos tho it looks like they run just right!
I looked into that when I was setting it up and it didn't affect my setting because im about 2 or 3 mm higher than it will touch, my height is 8mm in the front and 7mm in the rear.
Ohh K I was thinking yours was as low as mine. and i thought when u did have them on top that they would cause a problem other than hitting the camber plate which would have most probably have been the problem i thought i was having. Thanks
Hey blue star! I,d like to say good work on your setup, it looks and works boss. For the front pulley, the shaft that it is sitting on, is that the one from the teh, or the one for the FM? Thanks. Kiwi.
hey dude sorry random question/ comment but I broke my 48mm rear right dog bone and I want to replace it so will any Tamiya or any hobby store (HPI, REDCAT etc etc) product replace it? just badly want my car running again and cant find no 48mm rear dogbone/ cvd in broad tech :(
I drove without a gyro for a few days before it came in the mail. I was about to ditch rwd because it wasnt as smooth as my cs setup. I saw no potential until i slapped the gyro in. I think its as realisitic as u can get to a real car. I drift in real life too. Sr20det, coilovers, welded diff, 11psi boost and other goodies. All on a onevia 240sx coupe. My real car is slowly starting to look like my rc car. :D
When i bought the r31-16 fm complete kit from eagle it come with 4 tires. that are harder than the soft. I believe those are the eagle hard's but im not 100%. Are they? I wana try the vertex series tires. the 02, 03, & 04 (04 being their softest tire). There is also ds racing CS (competition series) tires with 5 different types, 1 being hardest. and they have a 10* rounded shape to them. which in my opinion looks better than the rounded exaggerated 30+* tire.most of it doesnt even touch ground
All the tires that i have used on carpet are too slow! but now that i have these eagle soft's I know they will work at my local track!!! And also when i find smooth polished concrete by were I live I cant Wait to find a Spot. In my house. there's just enough room for figure 8's and one long sweeper around the cones of the figure 8. I can practice that all day but the main reason I don't is because drifting on the marble after a while breaks down the marble creating a dust and it goes every were
Hey what is the steering ball pivot arm? -Please!!!! prove me wrong. - I don't think the steering post needs to be removed. You say it does, I have yet to finish setting it up with it in the original location Maybe when i do I will find it impossible to, then i will see your point. So i can save time would you explain to me what the steering ball pivot arm is? . What is the steering ball pivot arm
It took some time for sushi to become interested in CS, but he has already shown mild interest in RWD. I ordered him a kds800 gyro to leave on his doorstep to see if he starts sniffing it.
hello bro, can you tell me about r31 16fm, im planning to buy (Drift GRT Front Chassis Set For R3[LBL] ) & (Competition Kit for R31 13 degree Caster[LBL] ) from broadteach, can you tell me its that complete or is there somthing i should buy to complete this kit? please...
Look for the ones that has all the arms in the picture. From what what I can remember, all the kits for R31 should be full kit. I bought 1 from them a year ago.
Im able to do exactly as this guy does at the 4:00 minute mark after I put 5 full lipo's of practice with out a gyro " FR-D GYRO OFF! GYRO NO! KOREA RC DRIFT 2WD 팀SSD I was feeling like you at one point about ditching but towards the R31 cuz of the steering angle. And going for FR-D But i have plenty now. (Thanks To YOU) I finally got a Gyro Today!!! (Hobbyking Telebee) I'm still figuring out how to tune it. It Makes Drifting soo Smooth N Easy
None of the new and improved chassis no. Right now all of my electronics are off the chassis so that i can clean up the wires. when im done ill shot a picture of it and post it on the RWD Forum & on drift mission & on the RWD Facebook page. I eventually will have some one shot a video of me drifting it when I can get a hold of an Hd camera
Hay bluestar. Nice video. Love the rwd. Iv not long got in to it. Once you try it theres no going back. Keep the gd work up and hope to see another vid soon. Check my rwd vids if you fancy it. ;-). Spread the love for rwd.
I looked into that when I was setting it up and it didn't affect my setting because im about 2 or 3 mm higher than it will touch, my height is 8mm in the front and 7mm in the rear.
2 of them came off of the front tensioner. The other 2 came off of my cs donor chassis......taking apart anything to make the rwd look pretty. I put a plain jane tensioner on my CS 16fm since u can hardly see it.
I haven't been on carpet yet. we don't have a Carpet Track location. Although there is a Hobbytown(hobbystore) with a carpet track that we might go to sometime eventually.
Nice! I give you Props. with the real deal drifting. Having the car and setting it up for drift and actually drifting, it must be fun. I would love to go out and drift a Ke70.
For the first 2 days when my suspension was still unmodified AFTER putting 4 full batteries through it I was doing very well at controlling and making smooth figure 8's and doughnut's with out a gyro.
I went to the track (carpet) and quickly realized i need grippy tires and MORE Angle. Now i got The Angle Thanks to you!
I used a dremmel bit that is a rounded cone shape.
From walmart, its a grinding stone in fact. found in the Dremmel section in the back
That was the scariest part for me. I didn't start my holes until I was certain it was going to work.
I took the steering screws/bolts out and checked, left,right, and center, like a zillion times!!
(as in holding it in place by hand and moving it around.)
Then when I was ready, I took the plunge.
If I had known I could get 80, I wouldn't have made the first set of holes for 70.
But after looking at the frd steering system, I knew it could be duplicated.
I'm glad you got it sorted out!!
I added a notation to the video :D
I have Tamiya TRF shocks with Sakura DS3 Springs Orange and White.
As far as I am aware, Most shocks are a standard size.
Yes, It's actually good that it has a small amount of play, but no more than 1mm or less of play. it's normal, I came to realize that it helps belts seat better.
That front Shaft is pretty tricky, but I did use all the C clips.
It actually helps to have a systematic order for removing it.
Hey Bluestar, First off i wanted to Thank you for all the help, but i need some more. lol.
I installed 5mm spacers onto the shocktower like the video so that my shocks can sit closer to the motor.
Problem: I dont have the same shocks as you I have the ones from eagle racing.
My shocks hit the head of the screws that are attached to the spur gear holder. i removed the spur gear holder and screwed the spur gear without the spur gear holder to get some clearance which helps, But it still hits.
I ask because i was having a small issue and and i thought maybe i put the steering post in the wrong spot.
But i figured it out. Thanks So much Dude. Im going to put the electronics on tomorrow and hopefully all is GREAT!
The front pulley is stock 16fm but i added a shaft collar(w/set screw) to hold it in place. Others can just keep the 2nd pulley in place or install spacers until they reach the C clip.
fantastic video! it's been a huge help (alongside robekensugi's Yamada-san R31FMRWD vid) to move my 16FM into the RWD world. I didn't think it was particularly viable on polished concrete, but I'm utterly impressed with what you've done! i'm currently moving some of these settings across to my own chassis and hope to be sliding like this soon, seeing as only 1 other person in my club has taken on the RWD challenge and is having limited results. question: eagle racing tyres make the difference?
When the steering goes full lock Past 70* and 80* to the right side, the steering arm hits the tire. For me, I had no other way around this other than moving the steering rack. I didn't want to extend the front suspension arms and change the offset of the front width, that would affect the fitment on all my bodies.
Have you tried moving the ta05 extensions above the steering arms rather than below.
So that you have more suspension travel.
The only thing i can think of is Buying new shocks, Like Yours. I wouldnt mind upgrading nighter
- What kind of shocks do you have?
- Do you know of high quality shocks that are as thin or thinner than yours?
- Does front spur gear shaft have any play (movement from left to right)?
I ask because mine does, i might have missed a C clip when i installed it
Thanks for sharing your setup. I've been waiting for this since you teased us in your last video. Do you know where I can get the drill bit to make the screw recessed? I'm about 75% close to your setup now. I just need to move the steering rack and grind the knuckles down a bit further.
have you tried eqgle racing Tamiya soft and hards?
the softs are probably the grippiest you can get with it still being a plastic tire.
they are as fast as 50 50 and CS
I Must Say Thanks for creating this Video!
But i don't understand why go through the trouble of moving the original location of the steering post.
Wouldn't I be able to get the same angle by doing the following upgrades:
1) steering arm extension pieces 2) shaving the steering knuckle 3) adding the center rack 4)Moving the tower back 5mm so that there is clearance for the shock to be placed in the second hole from the inside.
Does the original location of steering post not allow 80* angle
I was on vacation when you messaged me. Either today or tomorrow I'll drill my chassis plate. I found the tool that does the cone shape holes. It's called countersink drill bits. I'll be back with more details on size to use. Also, I wonder if you would be willing to make a tutorial on ways to cut, drill or shape Carbon Fiber without damaging the composite.
Oh yea! have you driven on carpet? what tires did you use on it?
The original design of the steering doesnt allow the angle to go past 70* because the right wheel sits on steering ball pivot arm. So by moving in the swipers, i can get up to 80*. If the shocks placement werent an issue, i would have engineered 90 no ackerman. But im not a fan of the mono shock design for my taste or inverted, but i do think its cool for others.
1) Do you think 13* castor will work for RWD?
2) Did you have to Create a new ball end hole on the knuckle for the angle or just to make it more like the MST?
3)I hear your body is 190, what offset rims do you use? do you use spacers with that?
I ask because I've had difficulty with bodys with this chassis including a 197 body.
4)How do you adjust rear toe? is that only possible with plastic parts?
Hey man, in the video 3:47-3:57 it shows the holes that you made on the deck.
It seems that the right hole in video (the left steering post hole) was placed correctly By your spec's 7mm in and 2mm up. and that the other was a little off.
Am i right?
my front weight won't dip down far enough for it to hit.
Then if I flipped them, the extension hits the camber plate.
1) it should, but unnecessary. 10 is enough
2) I tried different arrangement of parts until it worked. MST placement seemed to work well.
3)yes, body 190mm. wheels are 4mm.
4) you can buy suspension block from broadtech. if yours are RR0 then get
-2 for the rear front one.
Or you can get the little adjustable plastic bits from broadtech.
Rear toe isn't set in stone, it's just what I have that works for me at the moment.
For a while i was ordering different tires looking for soft one's like that when all along broad tech was selling them... for cheap too!
I drift on untreated/unsealed marble floors in my house. i think the marble is grippier than polished concrete because the soft's run too fast on my marble. ( i haven't found a polished floor around were i live that i could drift without getting kicked out). eagle hard's front. street jam medium's rear.
In your videos tho it looks like they run just right!
I looked into that when I was setting it up and it didn't affect my setting because im about 2 or 3 mm higher than it will touch,
my height is 8mm in the front and 7mm in the rear.
Ohh K I was thinking yours was as low as mine. and i thought when u did have them on top that they would cause a problem other than hitting the camber plate which would have most probably have been the problem i thought i was having. Thanks
Hi I have a ta05 and I was wondering how do I convert it into a drift rc car? Also I was wondering how do u make the wheels go sideways so much?
Hey blue star! I,d like to say good work on your setup, it looks and works boss. For the front pulley, the shaft that it is sitting on, is that the one from the teh, or the one for the FM? Thanks. Kiwi.
Fantastico Video! You did a great job! Really amazing!
hey dude sorry random question/ comment
but I broke my 48mm rear right dog bone and I want to replace it so will any Tamiya or any hobby store (HPI, REDCAT etc etc) product replace it? just badly want my car running again and cant find no 48mm rear dogbone/ cvd in broad tech :(
I drove without a gyro for a few days before it came in the mail. I was about to ditch rwd because it wasnt as smooth as my cs setup. I saw no potential until i slapped the gyro in. I think its as realisitic as u can get to a real car. I drift in real life too. Sr20det, coilovers, welded diff, 11psi boost and other goodies. All on a onevia 240sx coupe. My real car is slowly starting to look like my rc car. :D
Onevia love! And damn, good work bro
When i bought the r31-16 fm complete kit from eagle it come with 4 tires. that are harder than the soft. I believe those are the eagle hard's but im not 100%. Are they?
I wana try the vertex series tires. the 02, 03, & 04 (04 being their softest tire). There is also ds racing CS (competition series) tires with 5 different types, 1 being hardest. and they have a 10* rounded shape to them. which in my opinion looks better than the rounded exaggerated 30+* tire.most of it doesnt even touch ground
nice man!!! u even brought up the topic how important tires were
I’m a noob to drifting an I got a Sakura D4 rwd no gyro and a Mazda rx7 FC3s body. I want to learn with no gyro to start
Great video u got me wanting to do my D3. Be blessed
Ohh That's important! I'll try that. And ive always wanted to upgrade my shock's for some reason.
Hey were did you buy that 5mm spacer? At Broadtech all i can find is up to 4mm
Hey Do you still use a counter steer ratio calculator? Id like to figure out witch one to use.
OK, thanks, but that shaft, is it for the original r31?
Hey buddy,i hv question for u, what tire for rwd on carpet?
All the tires that i have used on carpet are too slow! but now that i have these eagle soft's I know they will work at my local track!!! And also when i find smooth polished concrete by were I live I cant Wait to find a Spot.
In my house. there's just enough room for figure 8's and one long sweeper around the cones of the figure 8. I can practice that all day but the main reason I don't is because drifting on the marble after a while breaks down the marble creating a dust and it goes every were
Nice video! When are you talking sushi into going rwd? :)
Hey what is the steering ball pivot arm?
-Please!!!! prove me wrong.
- I don't think the steering post needs to be removed.
You say it does, I have yet to finish setting it up with it in the original location
Maybe when i do I will find it impossible to, then i will see your point.
So i can save time would you explain to me what the steering ball pivot arm is?
. What is the steering ball pivot arm
It took some time for sushi to become interested in CS, but he has already shown mild interest in RWD. I ordered him a kds800 gyro to leave on his doorstep to see if he starts sniffing it.
I too beem getting into rwd and its great.. like anything,... practice.
Hey. Can i make my mst 01d rwd? If so
What do you i need?
And of course it worked for you, Wellllll it worked for me!!!
any pics??
hello bro, can you tell me about r31 16fm, im planning to buy (Drift GRT Front Chassis Set For R3[LBL] ) & (Competition Kit for R31 13 degree Caster[LBL] ) from broadteach, can you tell me its that complete or is there somthing i should buy to complete this kit?
please...
Look for the ones that has all the arms in the picture. From what what I can remember, all the kits for R31 should be full kit. I bought 1 from them a year ago.
nice video this will help me a lot setting up my car.
Hey have you tried RWD without Gyro? How'd it go?
Nice!!
Good machine setting Video♪
:) The tires made a big difference.
Nice video,good job!
I have a cs calculator vid on my channel.i dun remember it off the top of my head
Wow very detail and informative
forgot to mention!! I used the center 2 holes for the spur gear holder for added clearance
Im able to do exactly as this guy does at the 4:00 minute mark after I put 5 full lipo's of practice with out a gyro "
FR-D GYRO OFF! GYRO NO! KOREA RC DRIFT 2WD 팀SSD
I was feeling like you at one point about ditching but towards the R31 cuz of the steering angle. And going for FR-D But i have plenty now. (Thanks To YOU)
I finally got a Gyro Today!!! (Hobbyking Telebee) I'm still figuring out how to tune it. It Makes Drifting soo Smooth N Easy
great vid!
Thanks! You helped out alot
Nice setup
The driving clip in the Vid is the same rwd car.
ill check you out :)
None of the new and improved chassis no.
Right now all of my electronics are off the chassis so that i can clean up the wires. when im done ill shot a picture of it and post it on the RWD Forum & on drift mission & on the RWD Facebook page.
I eventually will have some one shot a video of me drifting it when I can get a hold of an Hd camera
I'm Surprised you weren't able to accomplish that with out a gyro.
What is ur gyro set at??50%?
i start at 50 then very slowly test with higher gain before it wobbles
+blueststar4u
thanks, found your video very helpful...btw if ur body the yokohama or pandora??
the body is a replica Yokomo onevia
thats sick
excellent!!!!!!
that steering angle though
Shaft is stock 16FM
FINALY ;P
Amazing, I wish I can be your friend and help me setup my car :D
You'll see my video eventually of my setup when im ready to shot a video. ill invite you to it.
nice streering mod bro.., im still waiting some action on track :) you can view my rwd ta05 and give me some feedback
muy buen vid
i think the gyro is just a cheating that helps you to steer out of the turn better to learn drifting with no gyro
Wow!!!
Hay bluestar. Nice video. Love the rwd. Iv not long got in to it. Once you try it theres no going back. Keep the gd work up and hope to see another vid soon. Check my rwd vids if you fancy it. ;-). Spread the love for rwd.
just about. Mine wasn't perfect but it worked. :P
Ok, thanks.
I looked into that when I was setting it up and it didn't affect my setting because im about 2 or 3 mm higher than it will touch,
my height is 8mm in the front and 7mm in the rear.