What an nifty way to mount the Mudguards at the forks. Cost effective if it comes to producing things. If it is the safest way regarding the environment or damping after some stress one puts on the threads in a crash... but that is smart engineering since you need the washer anyway. :) Your instructor has been right about the Western Union splices, even to do them there, made to last. Well, he could just have been a fan of 60ies soul, who knows... :)
Thanks Ron, yes there are some elements of good design around the bike. Someone at BSA was still innovating! Thanks for the clarification on the splices. The man that taught me in the 1980s learned his craft in the 1950s. He was a bit of a joker so I was never sure! Best wishes, Dean.
You're right Ian. The thin steel stretches and doesn't want to go back. There was a bit of panting (oil canning) in the sides but luckily it straightened out enough. Horrible things!
Hi Dean, are the drain studs in the bottom of the fork leg 6mm or 1/4" BSF? 6mm has a 1mm pitch and 26TPI is a .97mm pitch. BSF is 26TPI too. Anyway I'm sure you'll make up the proper ones with cycle thread into the fork leg and BSF on the other side. I've never seen a D7 fork leg that seals! I put a small quantity of engine oil in each fork leg to keep the internals lubricated and leave it at that. I've tried various fork weight oils and ATF and they all seem to leak. The engine oil seems to stay in and give some dampening "assistance". I'm sure others would disagree.... Running an earth wire is definitely the way to go. I remember mentioning it Carl and it's 95% of all Bantam lighting issues that I have to deal with. I run a earth common wire as you have done in all my rewires. The bike is progressing really well and looking really good after the rework of the rear sub frame. It doesn't look out of place at all.......Keep up the good work and I look forward to the next installment........Bones.
Hey Bones, thanks for the positive comments. I'm going to order the new plugs from Draganfly, they are cheap as chips. I'll recheck what's in there, the internal threads looked good but you never know. I'll take your advice on the oil, I've heard that they leak. My Simsons only had about 30cc of oil per leg, more of a hydraulic stop than a damper. They seemed to work well. I remember you using an earth wire in your rebuild, it's something that I do too. So many faults boil down to poor earth return. Best wishes, Dean.
That is the quickest clean, primer and top coating I've ever seen 😊. Thanks for a great day at Stafford, looking forward to our next meet up.
It's magic! I'm looking forward to meeting up again too. It was a great day.
Great work again Dean .satisfying getting the subframe finished and fitted.+ rear brake rod and chaingaurd sorted.😀👍
Thanks Larry. It's coming together.
@@retromechanicalengineer I wish I still had my Bantam d175 (ORS 197H) Its road tax ran out in 1982. It could still be on the road somewhere ..
It might have been re-registered Larry. I hope it survived.
Great progress, Dean. I'm really enjoying this project.
Thanks Peter
I had one of these back in the mid 60's.😀
Perhaps it's time for another! I'm glad you are enjoying the videos.
What an nifty way to mount the Mudguards at the forks. Cost effective if it comes to producing things. If it is the safest way regarding the environment or damping after some stress one puts on the threads in a crash... but that is smart engineering since you need the washer anyway. :)
Your instructor has been right about the Western Union splices, even to do them there, made to last. Well, he could just have been a fan of 60ies soul, who knows... :)
Thanks Ron, yes there are some elements of good design around the bike. Someone at BSA was still innovating! Thanks for the clarification on the splices. The man that taught me in the 1980s learned his craft in the 1950s. He was a bit of a joker so I was never sure!
Best wishes, Dean.
Coming on well Dean.
Regards.
Steve.
Thanks Steve, definitely getting there.
Looking good brother.
Thanks Cain.
Chainguards... I find they are the most difficult parts to get a twist out of!
You're right Ian. The thin steel stretches and doesn't want to go back. There was a bit of panting (oil canning) in the sides but luckily it straightened out enough. Horrible things!
Hi Dean, are the drain studs in the bottom of the fork leg 6mm or 1/4" BSF? 6mm has a 1mm pitch and 26TPI is a .97mm pitch. BSF is 26TPI too. Anyway I'm sure you'll make up the proper ones with cycle thread into the fork leg and BSF on the other side. I've never seen a D7 fork leg that seals! I put a small quantity of engine oil in each fork leg to keep the internals lubricated and leave it at that. I've tried various fork weight oils and ATF and they all seem to leak. The engine oil seems to stay in and give some dampening "assistance". I'm sure others would disagree.... Running an earth wire is definitely the way to go. I remember mentioning it Carl and it's 95% of all Bantam lighting issues that I have to deal with. I run a earth common wire as you have done in all my rewires. The bike is progressing really well and looking really good after the rework of the rear sub frame. It doesn't look out of place at all.......Keep up the good work and I look forward to the next installment........Bones.
Hey Bones, thanks for the positive comments. I'm going to order the new plugs from Draganfly, they are cheap as chips. I'll recheck what's in there, the internal threads looked good but you never know.
I'll take your advice on the oil, I've heard that they leak. My Simsons only had about 30cc of oil per leg, more of a hydraulic stop than a damper. They seemed to work well.
I remember you using an earth wire in your rebuild, it's something that I do too. So many faults boil down to poor earth return.
Best wishes, Dean.
First
Thanks Cain, I can always rely on you my friend.