Excellent presentation, dismantling the tool and show the important insides! For pruning purposes the small battery chainsaws are today the dominants in the market. Seems to be that same turn will also happen to the bigger models and later to the professional series. Thanks a lot for the knowledge! 👍
I have one of these as long as I can keep the chain on I love it. Had lot of problems with the first two chains , but with new bar and another new chain this one I purchased for 15 bucks it has staid on and got a lot done today with it .
One thing the Makita is missing that all the others have is a gear box to wear out or break. It's direct drive. Notice when you spun the shaft the center windings didn't rotate. Makita uses a rotor on the outside with the fixed stator on the inside. This configuration produces tremendous torque and higher inertia - so no gears required - direct drive.
It's one of the benifets of that electric motor, full torque as soon as you pull the trigger. Though having grown up on IC engined chain saws, I always start cutting with the chain at full speed.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Not at all what I was referring to. Electric motors, in general, have full torque throughout the rpm range. The Makita outer rotor motor is different from all other electric motors in that it rotates at a lower speed with very high torque. All other battery saws and corded chain saws have a gear box to convert a high speed inner rotor into slow speed high torque power. This outer rotor design results in light weight compact size with high torque. External rotors are ideal for applications with varying loads like a chainsaw. It's high inertia helps to “push through” load fluctuations and give high starting torque. Because of these factors Makita’s saw can be direct drive. Have no gears also increases efficiency and simplifies.
Hahaha- Mate - you don’t do things by half do ya!!!- you are a proper reviewer, no bullshit - just facts as u see it!! I bet brands see your vids come up and go - oh shit here comes the truth😂😂😂- keep it up & keep it real 👌
When I first started watching I was thinking here we go another Makita electric chainsaw video, at least it’s in Australia. Then you started pulling it apart! So I grabbed a coffee and put my feet up to watched the whole thing. Was good to have a look inside. One question, those wires that look like they are going to the oil tank, do they go to an oil low sensor?
I take a spare pair of charged batteries with me and haven't run out over a weekend's camping. Though it depends on the wood you're cutting, it's last a lot longer cutting pine than aged redwood.
I use mine for firewood. Depends on the batteries you use. It requires about 500-600 Wh to fill a 8' pickup truck with firewood. Two sets of 6 Ah batteries produce 436 Wh. Makita makes 6,5,4 and 3 Ah batteries and they all weigh approximately the same and are the same size. Two three (3) Ah batteries is half the Watt hours and the others are proportional. Hope that gives you some idea. I use 6Ah batteries so I don't have to swap out so often.
I see the latest model switched to the more traditional 2 bolt and screw chain tensioning. Have you experienced any issues with the single bolt/toolless system on this model. This seems to work just fine from what I can tell.
I saw that similar dewalt tensioning system having issues, though haven't personally had, or heard of any issues with the original Makita chain tension system.
@@fifiandmax I still think electric chainsaws are perfect for camping and 4wding, though still have a a while to go before they'll replace petrol saws for heavy work.
In Aus, they retail around $500 plus batteries and charger, I picked up an additional bar (so I can cut myself out of a stuck bar situation...) and then you'll need a chain sharpening kit and bag, so it all does add up.
I've cut the equivalent of 30 to 40 full cords with the saw. The chain brake isn't exposed and needs no maintenance. I paid $179 for the bare tool on eBay USA. If you already have batteries. I put an Australian Archer 16" bar and full chisel chain. Cuts as fast or faster than the 14" Makita bar and safety chain. I didn't use the Makita bar - too short. I've worn out one sprocket ($9) and one bar ($20). I dressed down the worn bar and still use it for a spare. Just keep it sharp and clean.
The only difference I know of is the 355 has a traditional 2 nut setup to bolt the bar to the body, where as the 353 had a tool-less winder and second spigot to secure the bar.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing, thank you. I have been looking into this myself, and the bar attachment and chain adjustment does indeed seem to be the only difference. 355 is the newer model, so it might be some quality lacking with the tool-less adjustment, or maybe just due to popular demand? Here in Norway the 355 is not available, it is not even searchable/viewable on the makita.no website. Great video!
@@TL-he7vu The tool less adjuster is flawless. I've worn out a sprocket and gone through 4-5 gallons of bar oil and the adjuster works fine. Don't know why anyone would need the wrench version.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing i have a ancient stihl with 5.4 kilogram and now this makita. The makita has 5.2 kilogram with 5.0 ah accu. The stihl seem lighter because of its center of gravity. I had to weigh both of them to believe it that the stihl has more weight. The makita is brandnew, got it today. Waiting for spring to test the saw 😁
It depends on what you want to use the saw for, if it's to clear tracks or cut a bit of firewood for around camp, it's fine. If you want to cut a winter's worth of firewood, grab a petrol powered saw.
Please tell me, many people in comments across internet told me one thing that is annoying with makita duc353. When you press power and u cut something, when you put it aside, after 5 seconds saw turns itself off, and you have to start it again constantly, if you are cutting something and moving cutted logs in same time. Can you start your chainsaw and put it aside to see, will it really turn itself off after 5 seconds. Why is this important for me ? - i am buying thiy chainsaw for my father. He is old and very very short tempered. If chainsaw will keep turning off after 5 seconds he will probably break it. I am very afraid he will break it cuz he has PTSD, he is war veteran. Thats why it matters to me so much. If its possible, please, can you do that test ?
The top button needs to be pressed before pulling the trigger. You don't have to move your hand from the handle. Just press it with your thumb before pulling the trigger. The Makita wipper snipper (line trimmer) does the same thing. I don't find it an inconvenience at all.
Chain. Normally the small ‘guide’ is in front of the tooth. Maybe my eyes are wonky though, getting old. Edit: just rewatched, pretty sure it’s on backwards, sometimes you get arrows on the tooth as an aid that should point away from the body when viewed along the top edge.
Yes you're right! Well spotted. Obviously not in the intro (otherwise I wouldn't have cut through the log) but before dissassembly the chain was on backward. There's a little diagram inside the chain sprocket cover. Probably not the first time I've been guilty of that! Or the last time either....
Excellent presentation, dismantling the tool and show the important insides!
For pruning purposes the small battery chainsaws are today the dominants in the market.
Seems to be that same turn will also happen to the bigger models and later to the professional series.
Thanks a lot for the knowledge! 👍
You're welcome!
You weren’t kidding about the breakdown. Thanks, mate! Subbed.
Thanks!
I have one of these as long as I can keep the chain on I love it. Had lot of problems with the first two chains , but with new bar and another new chain this one I purchased for 15 bucks it has staid on and got a lot done today with it .
I haven't had an issue with either bar or any of the 3 chains I have.
Omg love this.... you really did get inside and explained the machine. Thanks heaps
You're welcome!
Thanks to this video I was able to put back my saw after i fixed it. Getting this big spring back on it's place is a pain :D
One thing the Makita is missing that all the others have is a gear box to wear out or break. It's direct drive. Notice when you spun the shaft the center windings didn't rotate. Makita uses a rotor on the outside with the fixed stator on the inside. This configuration produces tremendous torque and higher inertia - so no gears required - direct drive.
It's one of the benifets of that electric motor, full torque as soon as you pull the trigger. Though having grown up on IC engined chain saws, I always start cutting with the chain at full speed.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Not at all what I was referring to. Electric motors, in general, have full torque throughout the rpm range. The Makita outer rotor motor is different from all other electric motors in that it rotates at a lower speed with very high torque. All other battery saws and corded chain saws have a gear box to convert a high speed inner rotor into slow speed high torque power.
This outer rotor design results in light weight compact size with high torque. External rotors are ideal for applications with varying loads like a chainsaw. It's high inertia helps to “push through” load fluctuations and give high starting torque. Because of these factors Makita’s saw can be direct drive. Have no gears also increases efficiency and simplifies.
THANKS for the review , lot less noise !!
Cheers! Glad you liked it :)
Another quality video from the guys at Lock Your Hubs 4x4 👍👍👍
Thanks for the kind words!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing I know that this is off topic, but are you guys thinking of doing a winch rebuild/service video in the future?
@@4west7 we don't have one planned.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Fair enough 👍 thanks for the quick reply.
Visor down fail @0:42 :) i love your vids, keep up the great work!!
Thanks mate!
Great review - you are the Aussie AvE! Do you need the ear muffs?
Probably not! Thanks for the Skookum compliment.
8:25 not much of a seal between the case and motor.
Hahaha- Mate - you don’t do things by half do ya!!!- you are a proper reviewer, no bullshit - just facts as u see it!! I bet brands see your vids come up and go - oh shit here comes the truth😂😂😂- keep it up & keep it real 👌
Thanks mate, I've had a few contact me and then stop replying to emails..... Usually right after I tell them I don't embellish the truth :)
@@LockyourHubs4WDing hahaha- if you decided to promote a product and got paid & disclosed that , I’d feel confident to buy it from what I’ve seen👌👍
Just bought one of these, now ive seen inside it im thinking cheap electric bike setup hehe.
I can see why!
When I first started watching I was thinking here we go another Makita electric chainsaw video, at least it’s in Australia. Then you started pulling it apart! So I grabbed a coffee and put my feet up to watched the whole thing. Was good to have a look inside.
One question, those wires that look like they are going to the oil tank, do they go to an oil low sensor?
Suprising it still runs! Unforunately no low oil sensor.
More info on how long the batteries last in real use would be helpful. Am I going to be able to cut enough wook for my weekend of a single change?
I take a spare pair of charged batteries with me and haven't run out over a weekend's camping. Though it depends on the wood you're cutting, it's last a lot longer cutting pine than aged redwood.
I use mine for firewood. Depends on the batteries you use. It requires about 500-600 Wh to fill a 8' pickup truck with firewood. Two sets of 6 Ah batteries produce 436 Wh.
Makita makes 6,5,4 and 3 Ah batteries and they all weigh approximately the same and are the same size. Two three (3) Ah batteries is half the Watt hours and the others are proportional. Hope that gives you some idea. I use 6Ah batteries so I don't have to swap out so often.
Has the oil tank got a sensor in it
Not that I know of.
My mistake thought I seen a pair of wires coming out of oil tank
Great video!
Thanks!
I see the latest model switched to the more traditional 2 bolt and screw chain tensioning. Have you experienced any issues with the single bolt/toolless system on this model. This seems to work just fine from what I can tell.
I saw that similar dewalt tensioning system having issues, though haven't personally had, or heard of any issues with the original Makita chain tension system.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Thanks for the quick reply! In that case I'll be picking this saw up while the 4 battery deal is still active.
You won't regret it, it's a great little saw. My Stihl is staying more and more in the garage these days.
Good one! but let's see it out on the track & around camp.
There's a second video in the making where we compare performance between several brushless battery chainsaws and a petrol equivalent.
@@fifiandmax I'm still trying to get all of the owners together in the one spot!
@@fifiandmax I still think electric chainsaws are perfect for camping and 4wding, though still have a a while to go before they'll replace petrol saws for heavy work.
When you say standard batteries do you mea lxt compatable
Yes, just the ones that natively fit the saw.
Looked a chore to clean out the chain brake. Prob. OK for occasional bush use. Can't remember if you mentioned $.
In Aus, they retail around $500 plus batteries and charger, I picked up an additional bar (so I can cut myself out of a stuck bar situation...) and then you'll need a chain sharpening kit and bag, so it all does add up.
I've cut the equivalent of 30 to 40 full cords with the saw. The chain brake isn't exposed and needs no maintenance. I paid $179 for the bare tool on eBay USA. If you already have batteries. I put an Australian Archer 16" bar and full chisel chain. Cuts as fast or faster than the 14" Makita bar and safety chain. I didn't use the Makita bar - too short. I've worn out one sprocket ($9) and one bar ($20). I dressed down the worn bar and still use it for a spare. Just keep it sharp and clean.
Which one is beter 353 or 355 what is the difference
The only difference I know of is the 355 has a traditional 2 nut setup to bolt the bar to the body, where as the 353 had a tool-less winder and second spigot to secure the bar.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing, thank you. I have been looking into this myself, and the bar attachment and chain adjustment does indeed seem to be the only difference. 355 is the newer model, so it might be some quality lacking with the tool-less adjustment, or maybe just due to popular demand?
Here in Norway the 355 is not available, it is not even searchable/viewable on the makita.no website.
Great video!
@@TL-he7vu The tool less adjuster is flawless. I've worn out a sprocket and gone through 4-5 gallons of bar oil and the adjuster works fine. Don't know why anyone would need the wrench version.
Excelente video un abrazo desde chile 🇨🇱🇨🇱🇨🇱
Thankyou!
How heavy is the engine would be interesting
Is it light enough to one hand it if needed?
Probably a little larger for a smaller person.
Where’s does that little spring go ???
Anyone have experience with the 405 version? They appear to be the same body just a longer bar and chain. You suggest it might be underpowered?
Center of gravity a little further back would be nice, i think
It's reasonably well balanced with 2 6ah batteries.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing i have a ancient stihl with 5.4 kilogram and now this makita. The makita has 5.2 kilogram with 5.0 ah accu. The stihl seem lighter because of its center of gravity. I had to weigh both of them to believe it that the stihl has more weight. The makita is brandnew, got it today. Waiting for spring to test the saw 😁
How long do the batteries last? I have the 355 model and my two 5A batteries last about 10-15 minutes in light work conditions...
Using 2 6A batteries I got about 20 cuts of 12" (300mm) hardwood.
I think that has put me right off, not much run time there.
It depends on what you want to use the saw for, if it's to clear tracks or cut a bit of firewood for around camp, it's fine.
If you want to cut a winter's worth of firewood, grab a petrol powered saw.
Does it have overheating problems?
The batteries get mighty warm when I'm really into it. Though I've never had the saw cut out from overheating.
Please tell me, many people in comments across internet told me one thing that is annoying with makita duc353. When you press power and u cut something, when you put it aside, after 5 seconds saw turns itself off, and you have to start it again constantly, if you are cutting something and moving cutted logs in same time. Can you start your chainsaw and put it aside to see, will it really turn itself off after 5 seconds. Why is this important for me ? - i am buying thiy chainsaw for my father. He is old and very very short tempered. If chainsaw will keep turning off after 5 seconds he will probably break it. I am very afraid he will break it cuz he has PTSD, he is war veteran. Thats why it matters to me so much. If its possible, please, can you do that test ?
The top button needs to be pressed before pulling the trigger. You don't have to move your hand from the handle. Just press it with your thumb before pulling the trigger.
The Makita wipper snipper (line trimmer) does the same thing.
I don't find it an inconvenience at all.
Isn’t your blade on backward?
The chain or the bar?
Chain. Normally the small ‘guide’ is in front of the tooth. Maybe my eyes are wonky though, getting old. Edit: just rewatched, pretty sure it’s on backwards, sometimes you get arrows on the tooth as an aid that should point away from the body when viewed along the top edge.
Yes you're right! Well spotted. Obviously not in the intro (otherwise I wouldn't have cut through the log) but before dissassembly the chain was on backward. There's a little diagram inside the chain sprocket cover. Probably not the first time I've been guilty of that! Or the last time either....
For 350.00 I hope I don’t have to take mine apart like u did , I would have lots of pieces left over .lol
I've not gotten better at reassembling, just better at hiding the left of bits afterward!
mais Algum BR?🤣🤣🤣