I like this. A good overall presentation. Somebody may have already pointed this out, but microset is not a setting solution. It’s basically just vinegar and water and it reduces surface tension. If you really want the decals to melt into the details, that’s microsol.
Hi Will Thank you. Yes someone else has pointed this out. However I have been using this for years for this very purpose. As it states on the bottle it is a setting solution and it does soften the decals melting exactly how I want it to. I have used Microsol and it does basically the same thing, it does have the edge I agree on complex surfaces and angles but I certainly couldn't see any difference for the 'printed on' look, that is at least on the model surfaces I use anyway. Thanks for mentioning this alternative for others to use. All the best
Whilst I don’t make model cars, I’m a traineac I found this perfect for making decals for trains and station signs. Easy to to follow and well explained, looking forward to more. Brilliant work
Brilliant video. I just made some Beach Bomb flowers to replace the ones that have chipped away on the Beach Bomb. Thanks for sharing how you do it. I’ve been modelling for decades and it’s nice to see you take the time to show how it’s done.
Thanks for this fella. A really great insight into your methods and into results that speak for themselves. And all info is presented in a clear and calm way. Perfect!
AWESOME! Thank you for the loads of tips on how to make decals. I have subscribed to watch more of your no nonsense how too vids. Cheers from Australia
Excellent video, thank you for showing how simple it can be, as I have no knowledge of drawing packages I will stick with ms Excel or word and just need to get the correct paper for my printer. As I will be doing this on a clear Lexan body shell and applying from behind I have to make note to reverse the decals, (number plates, logos etc). Thanks again. 👍👍
Just discovered this video. Bloody fantastic! Can’t believe how good the result is! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise. I’ve subscribed and will definitely be watching more videos. Again, many thanks. Ross 🙂
Excellent and informative video. I've only just managed to work out how to get decent markings onto decal paper, and using a rather old version of Photoshop, but even with normal varnishing thereafter, the images disintegrated on contact with water. After watching this, I went out and bought the brand of lacquer used in this video, to seal the transfers... things worked wonderfully at the first attempt! Using lacquer was such a small adjustment to what I was doing, but very important nonetheless. I make plastic model aircraft kits, so some of the more unusual markings are very difficult to reproduce manually. The sky's the limit now! Thanks again for detailing your routine... ;-). Regards, Paul.
Hello and thankyou for your well planned and clear tutorial. It was very interesting giving a clear insight into not only your method but also cost, and amount of the materials required.
Brilliant 👍 Never made any myself but this fills me with confidence. I didn't know the paper and printer are so common. Thought you might of needed some high end equipment.
Great useful video, I’ve been watching your videos in order since I discovered the channel, but watch this one as soon as I saw it! I Enjoy all of them!
Outstanding as always, making my own decals is something I’m just beginning to learn for myself - I’m a little daunted by the software application as I genuinely don’t have a clue how to use it - but this was great to watch! 👍👍👍
Thank you very much. There's always plenty of reference on here how to use them and are very good. When they update the software and change the tool references and I'm pulling my hair out, somebody has always solved it and posted a video on here so there's plenty of choice. Stick with it you can crack it :)
I just love how diplomatic you were when you dealt with what graphic software to use!!! I got a kick out of it. By the way it's pronounced DeeeeCaaaaallll. The letter "D" and the name Cal, like Cal Worthington. Go see Cal.
There's some great inkjets and the majority of the standard ones are 1440dpi where as standard lasers are 600dpi .... I use both and if it wasn't for lacquering after printing I'd use inkjets more.
Hey, nice that you made a tutorial in how to make decals. I want to use my own decals for lego figures but I think it is the same proces to make decals for them as you showed. (When my english is not that good I am sorry, i am from germany)
After a lucky thrift store hunting day i came home with 16 Matchbox cars :D Some had some rough adventures so this video will help me in getting them back into a show piece! Luckily i have learned to draw a bit with CorelDraw X5 so it shouldn't take to long to trace some decals :D You talk very clear and show good what i need to do or what to buy, big like and huge thanks!!
@@SidewaysKing75 It will be on my channel, camera shy as i am haha! It's a matter of finding me some better tools and then i'm on it! Thanks for the fast replies 😊
also, I don’t know if you’ve tried it yet but I’m not sure that 2K clear urethane is a good clearcoat for the decals before you apply them. It tends to go on pretty thick and while it might work, it is going to pretty much be overkill and may not respond to setting solutions.
I am working with 8 x 11 inch sheets as the decals I am making are for 1/200 scale Romulan Warbird models that I am 3D printing from the original Star Trek series. I like the idea of printing them on paper first to check them. Thats worth its weight in gold. I am more accustom to Gimp though than Vector programs. I have several large scale Star Trek models that I am designing, so the Decals will be larger, but TY for the information.
FANTASTIC! I am looking to make the Aztek decals on the Polar Lights 1:350 Enterprise-A. The kit maker doesn't make them anymore and instead, you have to buy 5 kinds of pearlescent paints, an airbrush, and a MASK SET which is $85 all by itself. I do not have the patience nor the $$$ for all that. It is totally insane.
I am not a graphic design person, but what really made your video stand head and shoulders above the others was your mention of: 1) *why* Illustrator and vector graphics is best, 2) what a couple print settings usually do, and 3) explaining why microset improves the look of the finished result. Also, your video editing was excellent. So many terrible, shaky videos out there, and thankfully yours was not among them!
Great video, two things that I can share from my experience: 1: I design my decals in a workspace of about 4 times bigger than the decal blank sheet, this will allow you to have 4 times more details and when you are ready to print the printer will automatically resize but it will keep really good detail 2: I prefer to seal the decals with flat clear, somehow the decal looks better and when you apply clear coat to the model they will still be shine
Thank you Arthur. It's not the only way or neccessarily the best way but it's how I do them and seeing as so many people asked it made sense to do. Thanks for watching
Great video but I was hoping you would explain a bit about printer calibration, because the most common issue I see is people having the colors be way off. And I noticed you use a set of 4 colors
I use basic CMYK colours, but nothing fancy. You can let the printer set the colours or the software to be the guiding force with the final print. I think most software is the default, it certainly is with Adobe. I don't calibrate the printer the colours are pretty spot on from the screen to the finished print. Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Blood and sand I didn't expect so many products were involved, Also as a note I use Inkscape for Vector logos on Gran Turismo and it works well for being free.
I use nearly exactly the same equipment... same paper, top coat and use cartridge refills.. only difference is my end results are always poo :( Great video again.
You can also scan the car on your scanner at 100% then you can open up the image and then size the decals right on the actual car. Before my external drive crashed I had over 300 Hot Wheels and Matchbox scans. I need to scan them all again.
I've used Photoshop since version 2.5.1 on the Mac, and 3.0 on Windows. Vectors and Pantone refs are available as well. I create 1400+ layer vector images of sports cars with it and it can also be stretched with no distortion. It comes down to preferences and tools you are familiar with using. The ends does indeed justify the means and if it works; use it.
Excellent tutorial. Got me thinking though if i wanted a spare decal sheet from one that came with my model could i just scan it and print it off onto this decal paper to replicate it. Thank you.
Nice video with great tips. How can you put a white decal on a dark background? Like the Red BUll car. How do you get just the text and no background white bits?
Thanks so much for this excellent tutorial. Being new to modeling I am just finding a need to make my own decals, so this video is perfect. Could you please explain the use of white and clear decal sheets and which is used when. I'm in awe of your skills with Illustrator as I have not used it but need to now. Cheers and subscribed.
Many thanks 😁👍🏻 Clear is used for a natural background on light coloured paintwork so if you were printing say a red onto a black car that wouldn't show up so you'd have to use the white paper to block out that black. The trade off then is that if you had text, for instance, it would be difficult to cut out each individual letter out of the white sheet so you'd have to make a compromise somewhere 🚙🚗👍🏻
That’s great info👍 I’m a bit late to the party but in cases where you need white paper I actually do it in 2 layers. On my artwork I make a very thin outline around the edge of the image in the colour of the model or black. I print just that outline onto the white paper then cut the decal on that outline. Then I print the full colour image on the clear paper. I place the white decal on the car and wait to dry. Then I apply the colour one on top and that body colour or black outline will go just a hair past the edge of the white so you can’t see the white edge and that little bit of colour overlapping will disappear against the body colour of the car. It’s a bit more involved if there is negative space on the image where the car colour has to show through. Even with an Alps I do the same process, printing a white decal on the Alps as an underlay the printing my colour one on inkjet clear. Lacquer seal is the way to go. I started with acrylic (let ink dry a few hours first, then 3 light coats and a final heavier coat then wait til next day. But I found the decal would still be so flimsy that it was very hard to position and would stretch out of shape. Also the acrylic being water soluble gets tacky the longer you work with it and takes fingerprints or starts to let water get to the ink. Switching to lacquer changed all that. The decal remains uniform and can be poked and prodded around the model much like a factory waterslide. I need to learn vector. I learned raster on Paintshop Pro and got proficient and too stubborn to learn vector.
Hi that was very interesting and informative, l only build classic lorries but it’s the lettering that limits what l can do, however your video has helped me tremendously ! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Regards Tony H.
Perfect 😍👍
Wow thanks! Honour from a fellow subscriber of your channel. All the best
@@SidewaysKing75 thank you, and you have a great channel too my friend, all the best videos keep it up 😊👍
Oooh Jakarta Diecast here :)
omg
Jd ?? What r u doing here
I’ve had good success printing at 1200 dpi onto the clear base and spraying with acrylic clear, and finishing with pledge clear acrylic floor polish.
I like this. A good overall presentation. Somebody may have already pointed this out, but microset is not a setting solution. It’s basically just vinegar and water and it reduces surface tension. If you really want the decals to melt into the details, that’s microsol.
Hi Will Thank you. Yes someone else has pointed this out. However I have been using this for years for this very purpose. As it states on the bottle it is a setting solution and it does soften the decals melting exactly how I want it to. I have used Microsol and it does basically the same thing, it does have the edge I agree on complex surfaces and angles but I certainly couldn't see any difference for the 'printed on' look, that is at least on the model surfaces I use anyway. Thanks for mentioning this alternative for others to use. All the best
Whilst I don’t make model cars, I’m a traineac I found this perfect for making decals for trains and station signs. Easy to to follow and well explained, looking forward to more. Brilliant work
Thank you very much Keith. Glad I could help. Best wishes 👍🏻
Nothing beats Illustrator. Artwork sharp in 1:64 and as big as a building. As always great video mate.
Thank you very much Pablo..... agreed :)
A really good tutorial here. I've made decals a couple of times and had mixed success - I'll use some of your tips!
Fantastic and comprehensive guide sir.
Brilliant video. I just made some Beach Bomb flowers to replace the ones that have chipped away on the Beach Bomb.
Thanks for sharing how you do it. I’ve been modelling for decades and it’s nice to see you take the time to show how it’s done.
Thank you I'm glad you liked it 😁 Nice to hear it's worked for you👍🏻
Thanks.
I've watched a lot of videos on this and most are crap. But this is excellent 👌. Thanks
Thyank you very much
Thank you! I'm planning on doing some Acceleracers replicas and this is super helpful!
OMG that was good can't stop looking at it
VERY CLEVER MAN 🤓
plz keep them coming
Thank you Kristian :)
Thanks for this fella. A really great insight into your methods and into results that speak for themselves. And all info is presented in a clear and calm way. Perfect!
As always Pete thank you for the comment. All the best buddy :)
Fabulous. Your instructions are clear, concise and well presented. Thanks for posting, it's just what I needed.
Thank you Andrew glad it can be useful 👍
AWESOME! Thank you for the loads of tips on how to make decals. I have subscribed to watch more of your no nonsense how too vids. Cheers from Australia
He knows all the tricks of the trade. :-)
:) Thanks you...... I'll share more tips along this journey. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video, thank you for showing how simple it can be, as I have no knowledge of drawing packages I will stick with ms Excel or word and just need to get the correct paper for my printer.
As I will be doing this on a clear Lexan body shell and applying from behind I have to make note to reverse the decals, (number plates, logos etc).
Thanks again. 👍👍
Thanks Phil :)
Just discovered this video. Bloody fantastic! Can’t believe how good the result is! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise. I’ve subscribed and will definitely be watching more videos. Again, many thanks. Ross 🙂
Awesome, thank you! 🚗🚕🚓🏎😁👍
Extremely helpful. I was looking for a way to get small printing onto plastic objects and this looks like a great way to go.
Thanks for watching 🚗😁👍🏻
Excellent and informative video. I've only just managed to work out how to get decent markings onto decal paper, and using a rather old version of Photoshop, but even with normal varnishing thereafter, the images disintegrated on contact with water. After watching this, I went out and bought the brand of lacquer used in this video, to seal the transfers... things worked wonderfully at the first attempt! Using lacquer was such a small adjustment to what I was doing, but very important nonetheless. I make plastic model aircraft kits, so some of the more unusual markings are very difficult to reproduce manually. The sky's the limit now! Thanks again for detailing your routine... ;-). Regards, Paul.
This is perfection! Excellent craftsmanship!
Thank you very much its appreciated... 🚗🚕🚓🏎😁👍
Hello and thankyou for your well planned and clear tutorial. It was very interesting giving a clear insight into not only your method but also cost, and amount of the materials required.
Thank you John its appreciated.
ABSOLUTELY INCREDIBLE!
Thank you very much :)
Brilliant 👍
Never made any myself but this fills me with confidence. I didn't know the paper and printer are so common. Thought you might of needed some high end equipment.
Thanks for watching, glad it can be of use 👍🏻
Awesome video!
Thank you :)
finally made my own decals, lot of thanks to you bro 😍👍
Very impressive set-up and results. So professional. Great channel.
You're very kind thank you :)
Great useful video, I’ve been watching your videos in order since I discovered the channel, but watch this one as soon as I saw it! I Enjoy all of them!
Thank you so much its appreciated :)
Excellent tutorial, thankyou for sharing.
You're very welcome! Many thanks 🚗🚕🚓🏎😁👍
Outstanding as always, making my own decals is something I’m just beginning to learn for myself - I’m a little daunted by the software application as I genuinely don’t have a clue how to use it - but this was great to watch! 👍👍👍
Thank you very much. There's always plenty of reference on here how to use them and are very good. When they update the software and change the tool references and I'm pulling my hair out, somebody has always solved it and posted a video on here so there's plenty of choice. Stick with it you can crack it :)
Master, excellent
Thanks Pablo :)
Thx i needed this for my wh40k white scars 👍
Loved the videos so far!! keep up the fantastic work and just watch those subs keep rising!
Can’t wait to see what’s next!
Thank you very much Gary. I'm super chuffed anyone has watched let alone the rate they've all gone up so far :)
Awesome video man!
Had to watch it as soon as it came in my feed ! .............. good work .
Thank you :)
Thanks a lot. Extremely useful.
This is exactly what I was trying to find out. Thank for providing a top notch tut 👍
Many thanks. Glad I could help 😁👍🏻
Absolutely brilliant tutorial!
Thank you so much Will 😁
I just love how diplomatic you were when you dealt with what graphic software to use!!! I got a kick out of it. By the way it's pronounced DeeeeCaaaaallll. The letter "D" and the name Cal, like Cal Worthington. Go see Cal.
First a cuppa :) so bri‘ish - gotta love it. greetings from germany
😁 All the best from the UK my friend 👍🏻
Thank you for the video. Really great explanation of the process.
Hi sideways King 75 thank you so much for adding the links and for another great video very informative and very clear have a great day cheers.
Thank you very much, glad it can come in useful. Have a great day too :)
Cheers sideways King 75
Thanks from Brazil for this video!
Pleasure my friend 👍🏻
Good stuff. I was worried about the quality of small decals with an inkjet, but I will give it a try now. Thanks!
There's some great inkjets and the majority of the standard ones are 1440dpi where as standard lasers are 600dpi .... I use both and if it wasn't for lacquering after printing I'd use inkjets more.
Hey, nice that you made a tutorial in how to make decals. I want to use my own decals for lego figures but I think it is the same proces to make decals for them as you showed. (When my english is not that good I am sorry, i am from germany)
Yes certainly my friend this process will work for any model, miniature, toy 🚗😁👍🏻
Well done Mate!
Thank you.
Awesome. Very interesting stuff.
Thanks for watching 🚗😁👍🏻
Great video..keep em coming
Thank you Leslie :)
Very informative, and well presented. Thank you!
Thank you very much.
Great Video, i actually search for this "how to". thank you so much.
That's great its showing up so quick and its helping. Thank you so much.
Thank you! This video is exactly what Im looking for!
Very cool
Very useful information. Thank you!
You are welcome! Glad you enjoyed it. All the best
After a lucky thrift store hunting day i came home with 16 Matchbox cars :D Some had some rough adventures so this video will help me in getting them back into a show piece! Luckily i have learned to draw a bit with CorelDraw X5 so it shouldn't take to long to trace some decals :D You talk very clear and show good what i need to do or what to buy, big like and huge thanks!!
Great score.... I'd like to see them when they're done👍🏻
As always thanks for the kind words it's very much appreciated 🤗
@@SidewaysKing75 It will be on my channel, camera shy as i am haha! It's a matter of finding me some better tools and then i'm on it! Thanks for the fast replies 😊
@@JarcodeRover looking forward to it 👍🏻
Nice decels
Great video, thank you
Thanks for watching 🏎🚗😁👍
I've only just come across your channel. Some great advice in this video. Personally, I use cocktail sticks for final positioning. Great stuff.
Just fantastic. I really want to get into this as a hobby!!
also, I don’t know if you’ve tried it yet but I’m not sure that 2K clear urethane is a good clearcoat for the decals before you apply them. It tends to go on pretty thick and while it might work, it is going to pretty much be overkill and may not respond to setting solutions.
Brilliant guide.
Thank you :)
I am working with 8 x 11 inch sheets as the decals I am making are for 1/200 scale Romulan Warbird models that I am 3D printing from the original Star Trek series.
I like the idea of printing them on paper first to check them. Thats worth its weight in gold.
I am more accustom to Gimp though than Vector programs.
I have several large scale Star Trek models that I am designing, so the Decals will be larger, but TY for the information.
Good video!
Nice one..
Thank you Adrian :)
Wow, that is awsome, you make it look very easy, which it is not, Congratulations on you work and video
Very informative and fantastic presentation..great job!!
Thank you David 👍🏻
FANTASTIC! I am looking to make the Aztek decals on the Polar Lights 1:350 Enterprise-A. The kit maker doesn't make them anymore and instead, you have to buy 5 kinds of pearlescent paints, an airbrush, and a MASK SET which is $85 all by itself. I do not have the patience nor the $$$ for all that. It is totally insane.
Thanks, Will give a try 👍🏽
Your videos are always Master pieces 👌 us mere mortals will always need them. My skill is stuck and equal to that of a 3 year old 🙈
Thank you very much Sajjaad :) We all start somewhere brother, keep at it :)
Thanks for the tutorial! Ill try this on my next car, which will be a Lotus Esprit Turbo
Glad it can help. Enjoy your project :)
I am not a graphic design person, but what really made your video stand head and shoulders above the others was your mention of: 1) *why* Illustrator and vector graphics is best, 2) what a couple print settings usually do, and 3) explaining why microset improves the look of the finished result. Also, your video editing was excellent. So many terrible, shaky videos out there, and thankfully yours was not among them!
Thank you very much for watching and taking the time to respond, I appreciate it 👍🏻
Great video, two things that I can share from my experience:
1: I design my decals in a workspace of about 4 times bigger than the decal blank sheet, this will allow you to have 4 times more details and when you are ready to print the printer will automatically resize but it will keep really good detail
2: I prefer to seal the decals with flat clear, somehow the decal looks better and when you apply clear coat to the model they will still be shine
Awesomeness...great job...
Thank you Craig it's appreciated 👍🏻
This is incredible !
really helpfull video, never really looked into how to do it... so thanks :D
Thank you Dylan..... glad its useful. All the best :)
Wonderful "How-To" video!! Very informative thanks!
Thank you for watching David 🙏🏻
Thank you for considering this idea as a video!
Thank you Arthur. It's not the only way or neccessarily the best way but it's how I do them and seeing as so many people asked it made sense to do. Thanks for watching
@@SidewaysKing75 thank you for accepting the suggestions!
I hope you can continue making amazing content!
Very Impressive, Great Job
Great video but I was hoping you would explain a bit about printer calibration, because the most common issue I see is people having the colors be way off.
And I noticed you use a set of 4 colors
I use basic CMYK colours, but nothing fancy. You can let the printer set the colours or the software to be the guiding force with the final print. I think most software is the default, it certainly is with Adobe. I don't calibrate the printer the colours are pretty spot on from the screen to the finished print. Thanks for watching 👍🏻
@@SidewaysKing75 did you calibrate your display?
Love that I may give them a try
Thanks for this!
Pleasure thanks for watching :)
Thanks for the lesson. I appreciate it.
Can you do please make a video tutorial on making tailight and headlight decals?
Blood and sand I didn't expect so many products were involved, Also as a note I use Inkscape for Vector logos on Gran Turismo and it works well for being free.
Someone else suggested Inkscape and it looks very good. Thanks for watching :)
I use nearly exactly the same equipment... same paper, top coat and use cartridge refills.. only difference is my end results are always poo :( Great video again.
Cool my friend.... I'm sure your results are mint. As long as you enjoy the ride that's what counts too. Thanks for the comment:)
You can also scan the car on your scanner at 100% then you can open up the image and then size the decals right on the actual car. Before my external drive crashed I had over 300 Hot Wheels and Matchbox scans. I need to scan them all again.
MERAVIGLIOSO
I've used Photoshop since version 2.5.1 on the Mac, and 3.0 on Windows. Vectors and Pantone refs are available as well. I create 1400+ layer vector images of sports cars with it and it can also be stretched with no distortion. It comes down to preferences and tools you are familiar with using. The ends does indeed justify the means and if it works; use it.
Excellent tutorial. Got me thinking though if i wanted a spare decal sheet from one that came with my model could i just scan it and print it off onto this decal paper to replicate it. Thank you.
If you have the spare sheet yes that would work. Thank you for watching 😁
Nice Work
Thank you 😁
Nice keep em' coming
Thank you :)
Thank you very much for sharing!
Pleasure and thank you so much for watching :)
Nice video with great tips. How can you put a white decal on a dark background? Like the Red BUll car. How do you get just the text and no background white bits?
Brilliant! Thank you.
Pleasure.... Thanks for watching.
Very good video, with good tips, thank you for sharing. Greetings from Portugal.😉👍
Awesome, thanks.
Pleasure Steve. Thanks for watching :)
Thanks so much for this excellent tutorial. Being new to modeling I am just finding a need to make my own decals, so this video is perfect. Could you please explain the use of white and clear decal sheets and which is used when. I'm in awe of your skills with Illustrator as I have not used it but need to now. Cheers and subscribed.
Many thanks 😁👍🏻
Clear is used for a natural background on light coloured paintwork so if you were printing say a red onto a black car that wouldn't show up so you'd have to use the white paper to block out that black. The trade off then is that if you had text, for instance, it would be difficult to cut out each individual letter out of the white sheet so you'd have to make a compromise somewhere 🚙🚗👍🏻
That’s great info👍
I’m a bit late to the party but in cases where you need white paper I actually do it in 2 layers.
On my artwork I make a very thin outline around the edge of the image in the colour of the model or black.
I print just that outline onto the white paper then cut the decal on that outline.
Then I print the full colour image on the clear paper.
I place the white decal on the car and wait to dry. Then I apply the colour one on top and that body colour or black outline will go just a hair past the edge of the white so you can’t see the white edge and that little bit of colour overlapping will disappear against the body colour of the car.
It’s a bit more involved if there is negative space on the image where the car colour has to show through.
Even with an Alps I do the same process, printing a white decal on the Alps as an underlay the printing my colour one on inkjet clear.
Lacquer seal is the way to go. I started with acrylic (let ink dry a few hours first, then 3 light coats and a final heavier coat then wait til next day. But I found the decal would still be so flimsy that it was very hard to position and would stretch out of shape. Also the acrylic being water soluble gets tacky the longer you work with it and takes fingerprints or starts to let water get to the ink.
Switching to lacquer changed all that. The decal remains uniform and can be poked and prodded around the model much like a factory waterslide.
I need to learn vector. I learned raster on Paintshop Pro and got proficient and too stubborn to learn vector.
Learned a lot. Thank you!
Pleasure.... thank you for watching 🙏🏻
Great video.
thanks for sharing
Hi that was very interesting and informative, l only build classic lorries but it’s the lettering that limits what l can do, however your video has helped me tremendously ! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Regards Tony H.
Many thanks Tony for watching
Clever man. Very informative how too vid. 👍
Thank you very much👍🏻
excellent