My 10 BEST tips for 3D Printing
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ค. 2024
- The first 1,000 people to use this link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: skl.sh/alexandrechappel10211
Download the plans for many of my projects here: www.alch.shop/
If you want you can support me on Patreon: / chappel
Follow me on Instagram for more pictures and stories along the way: / a.chappel
my favourite 3d printer: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=228215...
Some of my favorite tools:
Small vacuum forming machine: amzn.to/3kiV3Qd
Japanese hand saw: amzn.to/2QcLUMo
Olfa knife - amzn.to/3hXRzBT
machinist square - amzn.to/3hORmkc
combination square - amzn.to/39HSlji
Pocket hole jig: amzn.to/3eXGcM3
Ca Glue: www.starbond.com/?rfsn=480871...
Best Tape: amzn.to/2U5qvdu
Biscuit jointer: amzn.to/333GzfY
Orbital sander: amzn.to/2xglSBs
Track-saw: amzn.to/2Q07Bj7
Drill: amzn.to/3cKVXCr
Impact driver: amzn.to/2VZFGDp
Jigsaw: amzn.to/2vQtbj1
Mitre saw: amzn.to/3b3QBkY
By using these links I may earn an affiliate commission, which helps support the channel.
Thank you for Watching! Tune in next week for more videos :) - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![ตรงที่เดิม - ฝน พรสุดา [ต้นฉบับ :เบส ขวางหวัน]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/c5YnbGEztI8/mqdefault.jpg)
1. 1:11 Nozzle size: use .6 mm
2. 4:14 Perimeters over infill: 5 mm + 20% infill
3. 7:03 Materials: PLA is strong enough
4. 8:27 Glue stick: Before printing
5. 10:42 filet vs chamfer (round vs angle): Use chamfer
6. 12:17 Multiple nozzles
7. 14:30 Test prints
8. 15:40 Off the shelve hardware
9. 16:52 Avoid supports
10. 18:24 Final product don't need to be plastic
Tanks à lot Pablo for that.
PLA is fine for toys, most of the times.
Actually at CNC Kitchen Stefan showed that you can easily go up to 150% layer line width of the nozzle's diameter. So 0.9 mm layer line width on a 0.6 mm nozzle is not just okay, but the most strongest print setting for 3D printed parts. If you are okay with having 'not the shiniest surface quality' I'd recommend doing exactly that. If you need better printing quality at the surface you can combine the 0.9 setting at the inside walls with a 0.6 mm setting on the outside walls. That will give you a great quality at wall thickness of 1.5mm and high layer adhesion. This is actually my favourite setting.
Greet tip. Thanks. I will use it. Currently using multiple perimeters often. But this should make prints faster. And maybe even better.
Does this also work to make prints water tight?
My research for water tightness a couple of weeks ago told me, that water usually doesn't come through the layer lines but the the Z-seam. This setting should be good for water tightness if you tweek your Z-seam stuff right. I suggest using a setting for print speed optimization since it will place your Z-seam to the nearest possible point where the printer finished the last layer. In that way the least material can ooze out of the nozzle during the travel move. Maybe modify your flowrate to a little bit of overextrusion (2-3%). That will help attaching the layers and layer lines to each other.
I've been trying to print a part using standard Prusaslicer settings with silk PLA for weeks, now. But every time I get some sort of defect on the external walls, which is not acceptable, considering it's meant to look nice - it's silk PLA, after all. I just decided to print the very same filament using 0.8 mm line width (with the same 0.4 mm nozzle) and 0.24 mm layer height. Print time dropped one hour and the print is looking perfect! So, I'd say even going 200% of the nozzle diameter is ok, depending on the model.
@@Felipeh999 Yes 200% line width will work, but for maximising the layer adhesion it will be counterproductive. For minimisation of printing time, it will do it's job.
Currently I'm also suffering a bit from bad surfaces but this might be reasoned by the high flowrate I'm using. I think the extruder is loosing steps there. If your problem is the same maybe a BondTech CHT Nozzle or simply higher printing temperatures and more equalised Flowrates should do the trick.
I personally hate glue sticks and blue tape. I was using a glass bed. Then I switched to garolite which worked well, but I had to use magigoo to get consistent results. Great glue stick. It sticks really well then the print just popped off once the bed cooled down. I have finally gone to a PEI coated spring steel flex plate. This is the best surface so far and no glue stick.
I don't know what they're officially called, but I like using "chamflets" (chamfer + fillet) on prints that need a chamfer larger than a few layers high.
First you create a 45 degree chamfer, then you add a fillet to the top edge of the chamfer. This results in a smooth transition to the side surface (where it's most noticeable), but doesn't suffer from the overhang problems of a standard fillet.
I love doing this as well. Typically if I am doing less than 1 mm I just leave it but above that I do your method.
I've heard it called "Chillets" lol
My tips :
1. When opening a new roll of filament, write the date on the spool/bag so you know how old it is.
2. Once you find a filament supplier you like, stick with them. There are subtle variations in material from different manufacturers so for consistent prints, be consistent w your filament.
3. Similar to (2), support your filament supplier on social media & promote their product. You’ll benefit from this relationship.
4. There is a difference in the density of black vs white PLA/PLA+. when switching to black PLA, re-tune your extruder each time (only takes a few minutes)
5. When modeling complex curves or parts, print a very thin test print to check the interface. you can slice this easily by moving the object in the negative Z direction so it only slices the ‘top’ for your test prints
6. Don’t always slice prints in the Centre of the build plate. Move them around to spread out the wear on your flexible magnetic plates.
Hope this helps !
Great tips, Alex. As a previous applications engineer working for a 3D printer manufacturer just about everything you went over was spot on! One other tip for avoiding supports (which I whole-heartedly agree with) is to consider breaking up the part into separate pieces that can be assembled after the fact. Most people assume that the ability to consolidate parts is always the answer - not necessarily.
"...consider breaking up the part into separate pieces" What adhesive works for you?
@@billbyrd9845 I use hair spray and a metal magnetic pad. Works amazing. If it’s a small part you can spray extra sticky there
@@sethkahny3663 I think he's asking about what kind of bonding agent. I. e. pva or pvc glue or cyanoacryllic(instant/contact glue with activator)...
I'm currently working on my engineering thesis. I had to do a bunch of tensile test on 3D printed parts. It's currently almost 80 pages long. I came to TH-cam to stop thinking about 3D printing for a minute. This wasn't it, but it was very enjoyable.
I used to print only with PLA. But I live in Brazil, and many of my parts start bending. I never thought that our temperature would make any difference. Still, it appears that PLA exposed to warmer temperatures for more extended periods starts changing its structure, and after a year, it bends. Some structural parts even broke. So, now, I only use PETG, and none of my parts have any issue anymore. I live in a very open place with lots of sunlight. Maybe that was my problem with PLA.
Also don't discount humidity, as PLA is a hygroscopic plastic, and will readily absorb moisture from the air, which in turn weakens it. Combined with heat and you get warping. Many who don't live in such climates report the same for things like mounts for things, like cup holders, in their cars when they bake under the summer sun.
PLA is sensitive to heat, humidity, and UV. It indeed limits your uses for it, but it's still the cheapest and easiest to print. I made something for my car and it completely deformed like silly putty after a couple days in the Florida sun.
No, that's how PLA works. It softens at 60 degrees, but any level of heat will compromise it. Also, as was stated, humidity is a factor. PETG is much more outdoor appropriate and it's really no harder to print, I'd say it's very easy on a Prusa with a textured plate. No glue required, just dial in the Z level well and print. PLA is strong, but not durable. PETG is actually perhaps a little less strong in some ways, but much more durable.
Of course. PLA is a newbie material used mainly for printing figurines, toys and other useless crap.
Glue stick tip: some special glues for 3D printing (like Dimafix) don't just act as a better adhesive while printing, but also as a release agent when it cools down so parts come off all by themselves when they cool down (try to easily release an articulated or flexible part from a flex plates 😉).
Of all the things there is one S-tier tip that I always share with people: Zen and the Art of 3D Printer Maintenance.
Whether you got your Ender 3 on sale or you shelled out for a very expensive model, realize that this is a hobby that requires maintenance. Think of the printer as a diminutive motorcycle that fits on your desk. Just like that guy how occasionally has a really great time riding his motorcycle on the weekends, there are also many evenings after work, he's in his garage "working on the bike".
Maybe he's putting a new pair of shiny pipes or a better visibility mirrors on it. Maybe something's rattling and he's got the socket set out and is tightening up this or that. Or, maybe it's just time to change the oil because it's due to have it done. The 3D printer takes maintenance in the exact same ways.
Aluminum parts sometimes twist out of shape. Screws come loose. Parts wear down. Wires burn out. Crappy boards from places in China you can't even pronounce burn out.
Take a breath. Relax. Look things up online. Don't jump to conclusions, and let your spouse know you're gonna be "working on the machine for a couple hours". Eventually you can enjoy your hobby when the printer is putting down butter-smooth first-layer lines.
Great tips Alex. Now you should do a video showing us how you design your pieces in Fusion 360 for example 😉
Fantastic video.
Non of the ideas were completely new to me, but the way you visualize them and show examples of real world benefits, convinced me to try more of them out.
The video I needed prior to printing out almost 1000 storage boxes and base grids.
I find cheap (Aquanet - $1.39 at Wal-Mart) hairspray to be easier to apply and clean (I almost never clean but IPA works fine).
Thank you for sharing you knowledge
GREAT video! Love seeing some of the aspects of how you *design* some of what you do. Would be great to see more of that!
Awesome video! I am a 3d printer myself and I love hearing from people who have real world experience making parts. I plan to watch this video a couple of times to pic up on all your tips.
Your glue stick experience is interesting, because I've actually had the opposite experience with surfaces like BuildTak and similar, that when I use glue stick on those the parts come loose, but without they stick like the duck's guts! I think (correct me if I'm barking up the wrong tree) the way those surfaces work is that they are microscopically rough, which gives the printed plastic something to bite into and stick. Isolating the surface and plastic with a layer of glue inbetween means that the surface can't do the work its designed for.
I had the same experience, glue stick might as well be teflon. It didnt work on glass, Got PEI sheet which would hold for 3-4 layers then peel, added glue, wouldn't stick at all.
That’s weird because for me my Prusa MK3 is hit or miss for bed adhesion if I print directly onto the bed (no matter how much I clean it) but if i add glue stick, prints are rock solid every time.
I wonder if ambient temperature and humidity play a part in our different experiences because I am in a colder climate
_the duck’s guts_
@@jacobclayton8131 I haven't had experience with the Prusa specifically, but used glue stick regularly when I printed on glass and blue tape and continued using it when I moved onto a Flashforge Dreamer which has one of those special build surfaces (dunno if they made it, or if someone else made it and branded it with Flashforge). I continued using the glue stick because that's what I always did, but had huge problems with adhesion, until I stopped and cleaned the surface heavily with IPA and stopped using glue. Then I tried the same on another printer with a BuildTak surface and had the same experience, leading me to believe that glue stick plus these build surfaces are a bad combo.
It actually could be due to the glue itself. I use a cheap glue I found in a local shop and it makes my prints stick like there is no tomorrow. I tried using 2 other types and those prevent my parts from sticking. This applies to buildtak, glass and creality ultrabase. Printinng PETG.
Thank you for making this, I learned a ton!
Outstanding! Right to the point, and therefor, time effective. A blessing. Thank you so much for sharing.
Very informative video especially the extrusion width setting one.
Thank you for the handy tips. I agree and use PLA filament almost exclusively. I installed a 0.6mm nozzle to print a bunch of your grids and boxes for my workshop. You gave me a few good tips to tweak my print settings which I appreciate and use when printing the next batch. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
Excellent, thank you very informative
I've been 3D printing for a decade, and I can vouch for all of these tips.
I love that Alexandre presents printing as a tool, rather than exclusively as an end product.
I got into 3D Printing because of your videos. Really enjoy designing things and printing them out! Thanks for getting me hooked on it!
Brilliant video! Thank you!
Great ideas and tips thank you Alex
Love these tips Alex ! Thanks for all your hard work !
thank you, for all the tips..
Thanks for 3D printing tips! 👍
These are worth trying out.
great tips, thank you!
In my experience, PLA isnt very good at holding tension for a long time. Every clamp I printed from PLA that was tightened got a crack in a few months
Not just cracks, it literally deforms and "flows" under pressure. Especially if you come anywhere near the 60 degrees of warmth where it starts to soften. All plastics do, but PLA is worse than most.
Great video! I will wait your Vol. 2 !!! Congrats!
Thanks for both keeping me inspired AND improving!! :-)
Thank you so much
I ordered my printer today and this really helps a lot
The best part about Tipp 9 in that exact example is, the layer lines are way better in that load scenario then they would be if it was printed standing straight.
and if you didn't want that angle in your print at the bottom, you could still print it at 45° and just use supports instead.
@@swalshy endless possibilities
Fantastic tips, Alexandre! 😃
Thanks a lot!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks a lot!
Great vid
Great video. Nothing new for me but 2 years ago i would really benefit from that. As a tip 11 i would suggest start playing with magnets. That was a huge step for me and my designs.
Great tips keep up the good work thanks
Another tip btw;
You don't necessarily need a bigger nozzle for the print speed increase. Most of printers and nozzles can handle layer widths up to 50% bigger than their diameter. So you can print 0.6mm layer widths with a 0.4mm nozzle. On the flip side, you can do this with bigger nozzles as well, as long as your hot end supports the increase in flow. I for example tend to print 1.2 mm thick vasemode prints on my 0.8mm cht nozzle. So there is still a lot of benefit in upgrading.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you for the amazing collection of tips! I often wonder how you get so much throughput for your organizer projects! I'm making a cheat sheet of these tips to post on the wall next to my monitor so I can use them in my designs too! Bravo! :D
I like all the 3D printed stuff you make. I think your a great Designer
Thanks!!!!
thanks!
Thanks! just gave me an idea to rethink a whole project i gave up on over a year ago.
Great man
brilliant
Great tips!!!
Great video, Alex~! I'm brand new to 3d printing and found this info really interesting. I dove right into getting a Prusa i3 MK3S+, so it's great seeing other makers using the same equipment. Kinda makes it easier to relate, even though they all pretty much do the same thing. I especially liked the tip of using a 0.6mm nozzle. I'm going to have to give that a try. I'm really looking forward to going thru your other videos. Thanks much~!!
Great tips
hey there i only just found your router table build as i am about to do the same . you did a incredible job of that love the table best i have ever seen
12:16 .... I just realised that I can save a bunch of time on parts I've been making for work. I've been designing them wrong. I knew this tip once upon a time but had forgotten it. Cheers!!
One thing on PLA, I live in Australian and the temperature inside the house in summer can exceed 40 degrees celsius quite often and I have had parts warp sitting in the loungeroom so while PLA is good enough in Europe and some cooler countries, in some countries I would suggest prototype in PLA and if you need it to last, do the final item in PETG but reserve the PETG just for those last copies.
The only way around this down under is to run an air conditioner even when you are not at home to keep the internal house temperature down but that is not a good solution.
Some really great tips here. I learned a lot!
Great tips Alex. Really enjoyed the content in this video 😊
Awesome tips
Great Video , Thank you and subbed
Thanks your information, really learn a lot of tips!!
Will upgrade the nozzle ASAP :-P
These are excellent tips! 😎
Great video!! Another tip is to use “Adaptive Cubic” infill. This will build smaller infill shapes when inside more complex elements of the model such as curvature, tubes, etc. and larger shapes for bigger gaps.
I do chamfers at 45 degrees and the select the top edge of the chamfer set a fillet on it to about half the height of the chamfer. This allows the bottom part of the part to get the benefit of the 45 degree chamfer but the top of the chamfer gets the benefit of the fillet and is more aesthetically pleasing. You almost can't tell that the bottom of a chamfer, unless if you count it not failing like fillets do, as being able to tell.
Spot on about PLA. It has stronger tensile strength and is stiffer than ABS but lower impact strength and heat resistance; so unless you very specifically need your part to take impacts and high heat, PLA is actually superior for most applications.
I print since almost five years and only used PLA - haven't had the need to use something else.
I like PETG a lot too, a bit more dense and a little bit more heat resistant :)
Here, I pretty much have to use PETG for most parts. PLA will sag in the summer heat even if inside but near a window that gets a lot of sunlight.
I've been using the hpla from proto pasta that you can heat treat to stand up to higher temperature than usual, its been great so far! Bed adhesion is a bit tricky though
Great video. For the line width, try to keep it between -20% / 20% of your nozzle size. For example, 0.4 nozzle, use 0.32 to 0.48 line widths. Of course you can try with more extreme values but that's a good rule of thumb to start with.
Hey Alex, my 5 yr old son loves watching your channel. Keep making these videos, especially 3d printer ones. 👏🏽👏🏽
Nice Tips 👌
Excellent Tips, and I have been 3d printing for several years now.
With the pei sheet as used on prusa is incredibly strong for bed adhesion. Use methylated spirits/denatured alcohol/isopropyl alcohol to wipe it down just before a print then like once a week/few weeks use scotch brite with acetone to scuff up the surface and expose fresh pei. Process takes 10 seconds once you get used to it and perfect adhesion all the time (note this process is for pla NOT petg as adhesion will be too strong for petg). I know people who have been doing this for over 2 years without needing to change the plate/add more pei because of how little pei is removed during this process
ACETONE on PEI sheet= bad idea. DON'T USE THAT. Even Prusa themselves discourage that on their website.
what a great video!!
My number one tip is to watch a lot of tip and trick videos on 3D printing
Yayayay another video !!! This was so educational and I learned a lot of stuff about 3D Printing
I'm glad you liked it :)
@@achappel i loved it sir !!!
Love your videos. Very helpful as well you giving me so many ideas. Almost overwhelming what i would want to get at first. Quick question. What design software do you use?
Great video. Agree with all the tips. Mahalo for sharing! : )
Great tips!!
Can you do some 3D printing tutorials for beginners with your prusa printer?
Great tips! 😃 shared!
What kind of CAD do you use to sketch your projects?
Great 3D printing tips, Alexandre! Love the chamfer vs roundover tip, I've definitely had my fair share of crappy roundover prints and I'll switch to chamfers fully now for that situation.
Top content 👌
some great tips, thanks. I must finish your camera arm I started some time ago. 👍
These Tips are awesome! Just getting started printing your assortment boxes. Today I saw this video and optimized all the gcode files. 0.6 nozzle is ordered. But I tweaked the 0.4 nozzle to print 0.75mm wide and it lowers the quality just a little bit, so I don't mind on these assortment boxes. Today I also set up the OctoPrint Continuous Print Plugin so I can print boxes nonstop! Or at least when I am not sleeping in my Bed ^^ Keep up your creative and high quality content! Really appreciate your work :)
About the glue stick tip, it is valid, but I would argue that most sticking issues are mechanical not physical, meaning that either the bed is not aligned properly, or the z-offset is wrong. I used to need a ton of glue stick on my old printers, where leveling the beds where a nightmare. Don't need them anymore and exclusively print PLA and ABS. Even use the Purse print sheet on one of them. Second, really get to know your material. If the melting points for PLA are not correctly set, it will either cool down too fast (not sticking well enough) or too slow (warping issues).
3D print the vase then use silicone from hardware store to create a rubber mould for casting. Personally I found it easier to work with and if you mix in a little cornstarch in to the silicone first it creates a putty that you can mould better with your hands.
defiantly great tips, but I stept off the glue sticks a long time ago. I use glass topped with magnetic sticker then metal buildplate pai sheet. Sometimes clean with sprits of alcohol, wipe off, and ready to print. Super clean prints.
ok nice, pretty great tips, been thinking about 0.6 nozzle anyway
Been 3D printing for years and never used glue stick or hairspray. In the beginning I used Kapton sheet for the bed, which was OK. Later on I switched to PEI on steel sheets and never looked back. As ALCH mentioned, you just need to keep the bed clean with something like a cheap microfibre cloth and isopropyl alcohol and rough it up once in a while with scotch-brite and it will keep working like a treat for a long time.
Great tips for aspiring 3D printers. Do you have any tips on achieving smooth surfaces either through some form of post processing or by altering the print parameters.
Thanks for video. Great :))
Thanks Alex! Really solid tips! I'd add one extra tip to this is to rotate square-ish models on the bed so make both axis moving most of the time (so ~45 degrees). This might increase quality of the print on Z axis
Great tips, especially the one about supports. PLA is one of the strongest plastics, just not very temperature resistant
Great tips Alex, I am using them in everything I print now. One thing which I thought you might mention: aligning the print so that the axis with the most bending stress has the filament running along it, so that there's less danger of layer separation. But perhaps that's much less important than I thought? I have very little practical 3D printing experience compared to you!
An additional tip from me: Spend a little more to get high quality pla from proven brands. Actually I prefer pla+, it has a little platic inside that gives more strength and good surface finishing. Great video again thanks.
PLA+ = PLA + marketing.
Same crappy material for printing crappy useless things.
Great tip about perimeter width with 0.6 nozzle! 1/3 of print time saved on your assortment boxes =).
people are surprised when they ask what I print with and I say the cheapest PLA on ebay! If your careful with your print settings its plenty strong enough and still looks great!
Is there a 3d printer you recommend? Thankyou
Hey Alex, Bra video. Hvilken type/merke modellgips bruker du og hvor kjøper du det?
all great advice, however have you tried using a saturated salt and water solution instead of glue stick? just mix salt and water together in a strong concentration, then wipe it onto the bed with some kitchen towel when the bed is pre-heated, it will quickly dry into a hazey glaze that holds parts down fantastically, especially on glass, and doesn't have any of the messy cleanup of glue.
I never considered max "fillet" because of nozzle size before. That makes a lot of sense. I think you should give NPA a try instead of gluesticks. Even though it is for high end filaments it works for PLA/PETG too. The reason I like it more is because it is water soluble and doesn't leave imprints on the bottom of prints. Lots of great tips for beginners too! Thanks Alexandre!
Perfect timing. I'm literally buying a prusha MK3S+ next month. Little bit of an early birthday present. Will pair nicely with my desktop cnc.
cool! :)
Prusa is a great machine.
I started using the exact same glue stick from Clas Ohlson when I had adhesion problems, never had a failed print since... :)
I love your videos