I just made one! I added a PTC and a MOV to the circuit and its is 36 LEDs hardwired to 120V mains and will run 24x7. Used a 0.1 uF 400V cap, 1500 Ohm resistor (in place of the 2x100 Ohm in parallel) to give me 9 mA through the resistors. Nothing even gets warm. Measured total consumption at 1.2W !! will throw away the 2.4W light it replaced. Thanks Danny for the wonderful idea.
Diode, I love your work. On these tear downs like this one that reveal circuit deficiencies like the undersized smoothing capacitor. It would be enjoyable to see you make modifications to the circuit to correct it or go into greater detail on how to redesign a circuit that would not be susceptible to reversed polarity like in this case.
He is probably using this circuit he built and put on his website a long time ago: danyk.cz/wmetr_en.html It uses the Analog Devices AD633 Most of the self-built equipment he shows is on his website :)
caps dropper is better than switching one i think, it can be deem even over half it rated voltage, high efficiency(heat dissipated is mostly on the led only), easy and cheaper to repair(except overvoltage).
Zrób film na temat tego Twojego watomierza który zrobiłeś z taniego multimetru.😊😊 Po prostu mam problem ze znalezieniem tego tematu w twojej play liście. Oglądam Twoje filmy od około pół roku i jestem pod naprawdę pozytywnym wrażeniem. Zawsze jest łapka w górę. Mam nadzieję że kiedyś skosztuję tego Twojego piwa. 😊😊👍👍
Yea bought a cob led spot light from ebay recently, stated 15 watts, actual.. 4 watts lol, but at least it doesn't flicker, the corn cob types do even if they claim they don't, i haven't tried the more expensive ones. 72 led 6736 SMD at 7 watts, actual... 2...
My guess on this design: In China (and the US and the UK) they use "polarized plugs". You can't turn them around like here in europe, so the described problem of reversed L/N does not occur. Maybe some greedy sellers simply screw an EU plug (or lamp socket) on their devices and sell them on eBay?
Nice and useful Video Now I know that the discovered leds are dangerous: I bought many Chinese LED lamps but fortunately they are all covered at least by a transparent layer ... maybe they last less than expected, I have already changed 3 !!! A single led has burnt and the whole lamp goes out. but I take it off and replace the PCB with the broken LED (corn lamps: the second from left in your video at 10:10) and by two broken I 'll take out a good one.(04:45) In the video where you presented the Clamp it I noticed that this kind of clamp unlike other more expensive and precise, is very sensitive to the position of the thread under examination, do some testing and you'll see the difference, it may be that I'm wrong but I think I saw well in the other video, if you think that also the high precision clamps of which I spoke to you (I use one at work: i'm check the electric light meters) specify to keep the wire as more perpendicular and centered as possible of the torus (05:30) lidl knife? :-)) have a nice night
I have that problem with meters all the time. the older meters dont have a shut down timer perhaps you could design a simple power off timer for meters?
Some chinese manufacturers just wanna reduce cost. Sometimes they draw a very thin serpentine line on the board to act as a fuse. I had dealed with some cheapest Chinese lamps and many of them save cost in some unimaginable way. larger cheapest boards even have hundreds of leds directly to the rectified 300v DC.
Hi, my ATX SMPS stopped working. I checked & replaced 3 capacitors with correct polarity & 1 ceramic capacitor of 2kv instead of original 1kv. Now smps turns on but gives little humming noise. Voltages are ok on all pins & if small load is connected it works. But it is not accepting any load on 12v rail. On 5v it's accepting, but humming is increasing. I checked all capacitors/transistors/mosfets/octo cpouler with multimeter. What could be the problem??
Are you sure that battery in multimeter is flat? Almost all multimeters have some safety mechanism for turning off if it's powered on few minutes without change. So you should move the range pointer.
Ah, but if you consider buying a new one, I can recommend you this one, www.retlux.cz/merici-pristroje/rdm-3001 I bought it two weeks ago.. size is perfect so it fits into hand and for the price it's really good multimeter, I didn't have any problem yet, and I tried almost every combination.
I have a transformerless LED driver from a China LED Bulb but it's voltage output is more than 300V DC. Can I reduce the V-out to 45V DC using Voltage Divider Method? Will it be safe to used to turn on several SMD LED in series??
Ale povedzme si pravdu, aká je pravdepodobnosť, že sa toho človek reálne dotkne? Bude to mať hore v lampe, kde je mimochodom fáza pevne daná a nehrozí výmena s N čiže dostal by už "len" 70V. Problém by síce ešte mohol byť u stolnej lampy, keďže tam toto neplatí. Ale je otázne či by si prstom reálne spravil kontakt na tie vodivé plochy okolo LEDiek. Nehovorím že je to úplne v poriadku, ale boli tu už aj nebezpečnejšie veci.
Jo, ta lucerna s větrákem a sítí v USB je daleko horší :). Tady u toho je průser jedině když ta LEDka odejde, chceš jí vyměnit a není poznat, že je pořád zapnutá.
Do you disprove or approve the neon mains test screwdrivers. Ive seen you use them before and as you look at all this dogey unsafe Chinese stuff I assume you like the neons?
I have bought the Voltcraft VC330 in a Czech e-shop and it was 1190 CZK including shipping (this is about 55 USD). I'm not sure which one is the original and which one is a knock-off :). and which brand is better... but this time I decided not to go for Ebay...
Somehow im not supprised that there is no switchmode inside, capacitive reactance seems to be too common. The cob one will be similar, but at least it has a plastic cover. Ahh the little yellow meter has the better pcb in, shame the icl7106 is a cob :-(. I have quite a few of the yellow meters, the earlier 830b ones are not so bad. I don't use them for high voltage. You are back home? The cat..
In a Czech E-shop (conrad. cz) for 1190 CZK. It's VC-330. But later I found out that this multimeter contains exactly the same internals as UNI-T UT210E, which can be bought on ebay.
I was looking for some clamp meter with 1mA resolution. Most of them are 10mA and some even 100mA. I also wanted it to measure DC current. There's a lot of clamp meters that only measure AC current. The VC330 came out as the cheapest clamp meter with AC/DC, with 1mA resolution and with True RMS in Czech e-shops. On ebay there's a very cheap UNI-T 210E which is the same as VC330, but this time I preferred to buy the meter in my country.
DiodeGoneWild thank you very much. I am also very curious about the 'computer power supply tester with indication LEDs' you showed in a previous video. Is it's schematics also available in your website?
Ni-MH in meter doesn't solve the problem. It still goes flat if you leave meter switched on. Also, Ni-MH only starts off at 8.4V fully charged. and will trigger "Low battery" warning very quickly. Furthermore, Ni-MH will self-discharge fast, so you will be continually replacing batteries.
If you buy any electronic item, always look for the UL or ETL mark (if you're in US/Canada). In Europe, look for equivalent safety marks. Some Chinese manufacturers will put fake safety certification marks on their products, so it's best to go to the website and verify the product is actually listed. Most reputable retailers will not sell products without safety certifications, but eBay and AliExpress and Bangood will sell any old shit.
Because in a capacitive dropper, the load can see the inrush current. The charging current of the dropper capacitor goes through the LED's. Theoretically the smoothing capacitor should absorb the inrush, but the ESR and ESL of an electrolytic capacitor is much higher than the ESR and ESL of a metalized film capacitor. Without an inrush resistor at the input, the LEDs can see a very high inrush.
Říkal jsem si, jakej ind to natáčí takovou hrubou angličtinou (ne že bych měl lepší, viz th-cam.com/video/sz0pEtKYNLM/w-d-xo.html), ale pak jsem narazil na lahev Žateckéh piva (5:03) a už chápu. Skvělá práce :)
You are from Germany or the czech republic? Cool. The package of the 9v says "Kaufland Classics" and Kaufland is a German Company so you are living near the border.
Victor Lindgaard It would be fine if you’re careful. If you do throw it out destroy it first so nobody will hurt themself if they dig it out of the trash
You're right... it looks exactly the same, except the color :D but my one is Voltcraft VC330. Now the question is which one is the original and which one is the knock-off :). The VC330 is cheaper than UNI-T 210E in e-shops in Czech Republic.
I got mine from Amazon for $32.95 USD. I found it to be very accurate and it goes done to 1 milliamp resolution.. The main purpose for getting it was to test quiescent current draw in my truck to see what the sleeping computers were drawing to see what the resting current draw it. I did not want to disconnect the battery to do the test with a meter in line with the system. It has become one of my favorite tools for close ballpark readings. Lab grade testing is generally not required for my projects. If that is required I use my Flukes in circuit. Great videos. Keep up the great work. Thank you.
I like all the warnings because every time i am playing with voltage i think out that and it then shocks me and i am like F***ck(except i dont swera that much)
That's right. But sometimes you may accidentally touch it, especially when changing it. When it fails and gives out no light, you may not realize it's still on.
hey ,do you know how many Chinese in the world? Singapore, Malaysia, us, uk, india, which Chinese make it? this product make in china, not make in all Chinese.
yay i was right, wow they probably could have gotten rid of alot more flicker with the same size 100v capacitor, minus well use that because the capacitive dropper will just send the 2W into the cap when the led's fail it cooks and not much else happens. oh well it would have been alot better.
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
I love the way you say "dangerous" keep up the good work! Very dangerous lamp indeed!
Pirat Carribean I like his accent allot also 😄 I feel much better when I hear his videos.
Almost like "deńdżerus" 😆
I just made one!
I added a PTC and a MOV to the circuit and its is 36 LEDs hardwired to 120V mains and will run 24x7.
Used a 0.1 uF 400V cap, 1500 Ohm resistor (in place of the 2x100 Ohm in parallel) to give me 9 mA through the resistors. Nothing even gets warm.
Measured total consumption at 1.2W !! will throw away the 2.4W light it replaced.
Thanks Danny for the wonderful idea.
I dont care about your accent ,as long i can understand. Good aducation keep it up...
I don't careeee about your accenttttt, asss long i caaan understaaand. Good educaatiooonn keeep it uuuup...
Výborné video. Přišla mi angličtina "velice česká", přirozená. Nu a vysvětlení záhady po pár minutách - lahvoň Žatec vše vysvětluje. Pěkné.
4:59 his fire extinguisher 🧯 LMFAO I love when he say that about his BEEEEEEEER! 🤣🤣🤣
Diode, I love your work. On these tear downs like this one that reveal circuit deficiencies like the undersized smoothing capacitor. It would be enjoyable to see you make modifications to the circuit to correct it or go into greater detail on how to redesign a circuit that would not be susceptible to reversed polarity like in this case.
one time i was electrecutet by my doorbel because it wasn't working.
it was from soviet era.
You were electrocuted? How come you are writing this :).
meybe not electrecuted but zapped that i almost killed my self by smashing my head into the wall .
The soviet electric doorbell
A torture used by the soviets themselves
In Soviet Russia, doorbells are just plain 2 wires with mains on it which connect to a mains ring bell. You have to touch the wires manually.
Piotr Romasz what no way
4:11 Wow i never thought that! Thanks!
Cat opening the video is great...😂
yessssss
The cat smells it and thinks "dodgy"
Perfektné video ako aj ostatné, len škoda že na TH-cam nie je viac takých videí po slovensky/česky.
How did you mod that cheap meter to be watt meter? Please make a tutorial video or something on your website.
i was wandering the same thing, i see it is set on DC 2000mv, and it is connected to the multi outlet power strip.
Yes, he has shows it in so many videos and I always wondered! The insides are always very similar and you can get them from most stores and online.
2 measurements & multiply?
He is probably using this circuit he built and put on his website a long time ago:
danyk.cz/wmetr_en.html
It uses the Analog Devices AD633
Most of the self-built equipment he shows is on his website :)
Yea probably
Again a great vid from DiodeGoneWild
caps dropper is better than switching one i think, it can be deem even over half it rated voltage, high efficiency(heat dissipated is mostly on the led only), easy and cheaper to repair(except overvoltage).
Veritáska (cat ) makes the video much better!
Your cat is so cute!😍
I just love the way u speak.. And do keep the good analysis..
I really like your chanel! 😃👍
me too ;)
Máte výrazný český prízvuk, ale napriek tomu mám veľmi rád Váš kanál.
Zrób film na temat tego Twojego watomierza który zrobiłeś z taniego multimetru.😊😊 Po prostu mam problem ze znalezieniem tego tematu w twojej play liście. Oglądam Twoje filmy od około pół roku i jestem pod naprawdę pozytywnym wrażeniem. Zawsze jest łapka w górę. Mam nadzieję że kiedyś skosztuję tego Twojego piwa. 😊😊👍👍
Love your fire extinguisher !!
but looks empty :D, let's refill
Nice fire extinguisher! I have a similar one here too. ; ) Thoroughly enjoy your channel. Take care.
Yea bought a cob led spot light from ebay recently, stated 15 watts, actual.. 4 watts lol, but at least it doesn't flicker, the corn cob types do even if they claim they don't, i haven't tried the more expensive ones. 72 led 6736 SMD at 7 watts, actual... 2...
What is the cats Name?
We call her Veritáska :)
I only watch for your cat.
Harold if you do that , you are a horrible person.
DiodeGoneWild What breed of cat?
@@009n0nc3 ...
thank you. You have potentially save my life !
My guess on this design: In China (and the US and the UK) they use "polarized plugs". You can't turn them around like here in europe, so the described problem of reversed L/N does not occur. Maybe some greedy sellers simply screw an EU plug (or lamp socket) on their devices and sell them on eBay?
I've had a shock from one of those in the past.
Nice and useful Video Now I know that the discovered leds are dangerous: I bought many Chinese LED lamps but fortunately they are all covered at least by a transparent layer ... maybe they last less than expected, I have already changed 3 !!! A single led has burnt and the whole lamp goes out. but I take it off and replace the PCB with the broken LED (corn lamps: the second from left in your video at 10:10) and by two broken I 'll take out a good one.(04:45) In the video where you presented the Clamp it I noticed that this kind of clamp unlike other more expensive and precise, is very sensitive to the position of the thread under examination, do some testing and you'll see the difference, it may be that I'm wrong but I think I saw well in the other video, if you think that also the high precision clamps of which I spoke to you (I use one at work: i'm check the electric light meters) specify to keep the wire as more perpendicular and centered as possible of the torus (05:30) lidl knife? :-)) have a nice night
Your videos are realy helpful for me...nice video
Yes yes pls make videos on your new LEDs I am eagerly waiting this one was very interesting 😎
Where are You working? Whats Your profession?
He is youtuber
I have that problem with meters all the time. the older meters dont have a shut down timer perhaps you could design a simple power off timer for meters?
The maybe its exposed because most spotlight sockets also have a glass cover in front BUT there are many that havent
How test pawer puissance with multimeter thanks
Some chinese manufacturers just wanna reduce cost. Sometimes they draw a very thin serpentine line on the board to act as a fuse. I had dealed with some cheapest Chinese lamps and many of them save cost in some unimaginable way. larger cheapest boards even have hundreds of leds directly to the rectified 300v DC.
Hi, my ATX SMPS stopped working. I checked & replaced 3 capacitors with correct polarity & 1 ceramic capacitor of 2kv instead of original 1kv. Now smps turns on but gives little humming noise. Voltages are ok on all pins & if small load is connected it works.
But it is not accepting any load on 12v rail. On 5v it's accepting, but humming is increasing. I checked all capacitors/transistors/mosfets/octo cpouler with multimeter.
What could be the problem??
Are you sure that battery in multimeter is flat? Almost all multimeters have some safety mechanism for turning off if it's powered on few minutes without change. So you should move the range pointer.
This multimeter has no automatic power off. The old 9V battery had 0.7V when I removed it.
Ah, but if you consider buying a new one, I can recommend you this one, www.retlux.cz/merici-pristroje/rdm-3001 I bought it two weeks ago.. size is perfect so it fits into hand and for the price it's really good multimeter, I didn't have any problem yet, and I tried almost every combination.
I have a transformerless LED driver from a China LED Bulb but it's voltage output is more than 300V DC. Can I reduce the V-out to 45V DC using Voltage Divider Method? Will it be safe to used to turn on several SMD LED in series??
hey mate, there is 230V in almost whole europe (not only EU) for like 10+ years !
Ale povedzme si pravdu, aká je pravdepodobnosť, že sa toho človek reálne dotkne? Bude to mať hore v lampe, kde je mimochodom fáza pevne daná a nehrozí výmena s N čiže dostal by už "len" 70V. Problém by síce ešte mohol byť u stolnej lampy, keďže tam toto neplatí. Ale je otázne či by si prstom reálne spravil kontakt na tie vodivé plochy okolo LEDiek. Nehovorím že je to úplne v poriadku, ale boli tu už aj nebezpečnejšie veci.
Jo, ta lucerna s větrákem a sítí v USB je daleko horší :). Tady u toho je průser jedině když ta LEDka odejde, chceš jí vyměnit a není poznat, že je pořád zapnutá.
Plase can you make video on how a pure sine wave inverter works?
Hej danyk vydával by si videá aj v češtine ??
Najlacnejsie rovnasa najbezpecnejsie.Asi ne.Takze zalakovat.Bezpecne nap. v CHi. 100V
at @4:29 how does the meter show power because the dial is set to show the voltage?
5:03 I see Žatec beer, are you from Czech republic :D ?
i think he´s anywhere near german border because of the K-Classic 9V block xD
Yes he is Czech, he has stated this several times. :)
Do you disprove or approve the neon mains test screwdrivers. Ive seen you use them before and as you look at all this dogey unsafe Chinese stuff I assume you like the neons?
What was the price of the meter? I can see that Voltcraft makes rebranding and the original construction is Uni-T UT 210E which costs around 35-40$.
I have bought the Voltcraft VC330 in a Czech e-shop and it was 1190 CZK including shipping (this is about 55 USD). I'm not sure which one is the original and which one is a knock-off :). and which brand is better... but this time I decided not to go for Ebay...
I think, need correct this scheme for better working. Remove one 100 Ohm resistor, change capacitor 4.7mkF to 10mkF, 560nF to 1mkF
Great video - that is the worst LED bulb I have seen.
The corn LED lamps with bare LEDs are even worse. You have to grab the bare connections when screwing it.
Somehow im not supprised that there is no switchmode inside, capacitive reactance seems to be too common.
The cob one will be similar, but at least it has a plastic cover.
Ahh the little yellow meter has the better pcb in, shame the icl7106 is a cob :-(.
I have quite a few of the yellow meters, the earlier 830b ones are not so bad.
I don't use them for high voltage.
You are back home? The cat..
Możesz odpisać po czesku. Mieszkałem blisko czeskiej granicy. 200m. Teraz w Danii.
Hello DiodeGoneWild,
where you are buy the multimeter??
In a Czech E-shop (conrad. cz) for 1190 CZK. It's VC-330. But later I found out that this multimeter contains exactly the same internals as UNI-T UT210E, which can be bought on ebay.
Tell me how to save from 220 ac
Isolation?
Omg I had the same led in India and its capacitor blew(the electrolytic one) and I changed it with another one and now it works...
Can we get the brand and model number for that clamp meter?
About multimeter: on ebay there are cheaper same models. Did you choose your's on some special tech. data or just acc. to look and price?
I was looking for some clamp meter with 1mA resolution. Most of them are 10mA and some even 100mA. I also wanted it to measure DC current. There's a lot of clamp meters that only measure AC current. The VC330 came out as the cheapest clamp meter with AC/DC, with 1mA resolution and with True RMS in Czech e-shops. On ebay there's a very cheap UNI-T 210E which is the same as VC330, but this time I preferred to buy the meter in my country.
Yes DC mA resolution is the decision making. Waiting on ebay for price proposal acception;)
I really like your new meter pls make video as soon as possible I am waiting😀
The warning disclaimer was horrifying 😂😂
5v 8w Usb Soldering iron Teardown and review please
How are you measuring AC power with that Multimeter. Please make a tutorial of that too.
Using my homemade wattmeter that's built into the power strip.
danyk.cz/wmetr_en.html
It is in fact a power to voltage converter.
DiodeGoneWild thank you very much. I am also very curious about the 'computer power supply tester with indication LEDs' you showed in a previous video. Is it's schematics also available in your website?
Got the schematic of ATX PC power supply tester
From your website. Thank you again.
Do you mean this one? :)
danyk.cz/atx_t_en.html
DiodeGoneWild
Yeah, the same one. By the by you have a very good website too. I wish I had known about it earlier.
Use a Ni-MH in the meter, no more wasted batteries.
Ni-MH in meter doesn't solve the problem. It still goes flat if you leave meter switched on. Also, Ni-MH only starts off at 8.4V fully charged. and will trigger "Low battery" warning very quickly. Furthermore, Ni-MH will self-discharge fast, so you will be continually replacing batteries.
If you buy any electronic item, always look for the UL or ETL mark (if you're in US/Canada). In Europe, look for equivalent safety marks. Some Chinese manufacturers will put fake safety certification marks on their products, so it's best to go to the website and verify the product is actually listed. Most reputable retailers will not sell products without safety certifications, but eBay and AliExpress and Bangood will sell any old shit.
I have e27 LED Like this i got it from WISH.(220-240V 4W COOLWHITE 48LEDs e27)
I have this over 3 led lamp. Now i change all to Philips LED
Hello/(Ahoj) , Why the inrush current is going to destroy the LEDs ? I know that inrush can destroy bridge rectifier because of discharged capacitor
Because in a capacitive dropper, the load can see the inrush current. The charging current of the dropper capacitor goes through the LED's. Theoretically the smoothing capacitor should absorb the inrush, but the ESR and ESL of an electrolytic capacitor is much higher than the ESR and ESL of a metalized film capacitor. Without an inrush resistor at the input, the LEDs can see a very high inrush.
DiodeGoneWild Now,I understand ,thanks ;)
Thanks!
The red inlet @3:44 is direct not through switch?
What red inlet? What switch?
Look at right upper corner. Usually red were marked backup inlets (UPS)
Říkal jsem si, jakej ind to natáčí takovou hrubou angličtinou (ne že bych měl lepší, viz th-cam.com/video/sz0pEtKYNLM/w-d-xo.html), ale pak jsem narazil na lahev Žateckéh piva (5:03) a už chápu. Skvělá práce :)
Quality will be excellent if you buy at a little high price.
Ten přízvuk je mega, ale kanál je naučný a zábavný.
Hey Nikola Tesla your cat is nice!
Looks like Kaufland Batteries.
You are from Germany or the czech republic? Cool. The package of the 9v says "Kaufland Classics" and Kaufland is a German Company so you are living near the border.
I am from Romania and I have Kaufland as well.
Wonderful
WHO had been electrocuted by Atx power supplies?
In my country we don't have "Ground". Only live and neutral.
Where are you from?
Which country?
Alaa Jannoud - Ground and Neutral are the same, even in your country. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_and_neutral
Good video
The cat is so cute
Please test the cat also if it is good quality
Hi, would like to contact you somehow? Sent you an email on your homepage - but seems you dont check it? I have some suggestions... thanks!
Just bought this, do you recommend throwing it out? Even though I like dodgy electronics like you
Victor Lindgaard It would be fine if you’re careful. If you do throw it out destroy it first so nobody will hurt themself if they dig it out of the trash
@@bluey_heeler I've used it for about a month now, and since I'm not touching it in its enclosure it's fine, but it still seems sketchy AF😂
The clamp meter looks just lie the UNI-T 210E meter.
You're right... it looks exactly the same, except the color :D but my one is Voltcraft VC330. Now the question is which one is the original and which one is the knock-off :). The VC330 is cheaper than UNI-T 210E in e-shops in Czech Republic.
I got mine from Amazon for $32.95 USD. I found it to be very accurate and it goes done to 1 milliamp resolution.. The main purpose for getting it was to test quiescent current draw in my truck to see what the sleeping computers were drawing to see what the resting current draw it. I did not want to disconnect the battery to do the test with a meter in line with the system. It has become one of my favorite tools for close ballpark readings. Lab grade testing is generally not required for my projects. If that is required I use my Flukes in circuit. Great videos. Keep up the great work. Thank you.
It is likely a rebrand, OEM'd by Uni-T for your local market.
what kind of a fire extinguisher is it ? 😂
Make sure you don't electrocute the cat..!! :)
I always put the cat behind the door when I work with exposed mains ;).
Your cat is very cute
Chinese electrical products cost less but can cost you your life
so you can choose
You cat now can understanding some circuits
What will happen if i just like mains true me ? i have try done it burn the fuses couple times its nice u become live :D :D :D :D
Your cat is so beautiful 😃
I like all the warnings because every time i am playing with voltage i think out that and it then shocks me and i am like F***ck(except i dont swera that much)
Seriously...my words can change like him after watching his videos.....😂😂
It's not the volts that kill...oh wait, maybe it is 😉
Prefers Anonymity It's not. It's the current that depends on voltage and body resistance.
Ur not supposed to touch any light bulb anyway
That's right. But sometimes you may accidentally touch it, especially when changing it. When it fails and gives out no light, you may not realize it's still on.
за кота лайк
hey ,do you know how many Chinese in the world? Singapore, Malaysia, us, uk, india, which Chinese make it? this product make in china, not make in all Chinese.
Thanks for instantly confirming that you are an absolute fucking idiot. Oh, and have a guess where Japanese cars are manufactured.
A new video!
I like his accent.
Ah Bigclivedotcom copy, but I like your cat.
Like for the cat ! ))
i vote capacitive dropper circuit
yay i was right, wow they probably could have gotten rid of alot more flicker with the same size 100v capacitor, minus well use that because the capacitive dropper will just send the 2W into the cap when the led's fail it cooks and not much else happens. oh well it would have been alot better.
Now that's what I call giving viewers value 4:02
Kindly visit a brothers profile and show some love by subscribing. Cheers!!
Konečne niekto od koho sa môžem niečo naučiť jediný človek na tejto planéte kto vie vysvetľovať