Done coolant change today made my own header tank like you did just used plumbers tape instead of rubber o ring and a tesco 1 litre clothes softener bottle filed down treads then wrapped plunbers tape round and worked a treat,cheers buddy👍
I think you also have to drain cylinder block, and that is done by removing the thermostat housing. If the block remains full then you would drain less than the 11L and re-fill less as well. I have the 208 Blue HDi. I looks like the battery has to come out to remove the thermostat and that does not look easy - lots of cables with unusual connectors.
I agree that this needs to be drained as well, but there have multitude of problems sealing it again. So, I decided not to drain it. It is not 11L, maybe for the 208 Blue HDi it is, but for me it is less than 0.5L-1L from the block drain.
So if there is still air in the heater matrix after running the engine and getting It hot, surely if its a pressurised system, leaving the reservoir cap on, venting the upper bleed valve should let the air out? Great video thankyou. Wish I'd seen it before starting the job!
Mine is a 58 plate. The upper bleed point is behind the air filter but unlike yours, is below the reservoir. Got around 3½ litres out but only 2½ back in. Started engine and although hot, top hose to rad wouldn't warm, had to take it for a run before the stat opened then coolant level dropped, got some more in and re-bled. Engine cooling and no doubt I'll get more in again.
How did the Halfords OAT coolant work out? Would you recommend it for this engine? Or something else? I read that low silicate is required. The original Glysantin G33 doesn't seem to be available anymore, and the Glysantin G30 is pretty expensive, and can't be mixed with the original, so I'm a bit worried about anything new mixing with the liter or so of what is left in the engine block. What coolant would you recommend now? Thanks for great videos!
Good question 🙂 Yes, the Halfords OAT worked pretty good. The video is ~2 years now, so 2 years since I am driving with the Halfords' OAT coolant. No problems whatsoever! The coolant temp has been as before, rock solid. As far as I know it is silicate free, that is why I bought it. I would recommend it, as I have used it for quite a few years, not only the HDi, but my 1.6 petrol version as well. Have not see any problems with the mixing and I did mix the old one with the OAT to see if there will be any gelling, but all was good.
@@moremoleculesThanks for the reply MoreMolecules, good idea to check for gelling. I don't know how big the problem of incompatible coolants is, or if it is even that obvious until corrosion or lack of cold\heat protection becomes apparent? I think I will try to syringe out the liquid left in the block via the bottom reservoir pipe to be on the safe side. Removing the block drain plug seems fraught, so I'll leave that in. It will be just my luck that the O Ring on the block plug(2006 vintage) will fail next week and I'll have to go fishing for it anyway and end up refilling again! PSA B 71 5110 certified coolant is hard to find, There is a Kroon Oil Antifreeze SP14 that says it meets the specification, but only available in 1litre bottles! Febi 19402 states it is 'recommended' for B71 5110, but I it doesn't say that it is certified. It also appears that the Glysantin G30 previously used by some dealers is not specified to B71 5110 either! In the end I think I'm going to use Comma G30 as it is equivalent to Glysantin G30 and so should be available across Europe if I need to top up in an emergency. The Comma G30 says it is no silicate like the cheaper Halfords OAT. I bet it is virtually the same thing. Mannol G12+ is less than half the price of even the Halfords OAT, and says it is OAT with no silicate, so very tempting, but I don't know how available it is in other countries. I also read some bad reviews on low temperature protection, but who knows. Another cheap option is Jovs Red, OAT with no silcate, but again, availability for emergency top ups might be an issue out of the UK.
Yes, correct. Drain, fill with deionised/distilled water, remove the air in the system, drive it a few times until hot and then replace with coolant. Coolant will be slightly on the diluted part, but you can use concentrate to bring it to the required percent. You can do as many as you want refills with water. I did it for a few times with my other car until the water coming out was really clean.
1.6 hdi 2007 berlingoThe temperature rises to 95 degrees on the upper roads. As it goes down, it returns to normal again. Even though I researched a lot, I couldn't find a solution. can you help me? Thank you.
That is rather unusual. My 1.6HDi 2007 does not move from ~82C. Only once, stationary in the heat moved towards 90C. There could be some blockage in the coolant system. I would suggest empty all coolant and refil with trying to empty any pockets of air. See here: th-cam.com/video/CSmm2SCpPCs/w-d-xo.html
I did all you did .... Water keep go up and down in funnel fan start working and when open thermostat vent alot of hot air out .... Alot like I did it 15 times and alot of hot air out if keep going will go alot of air but I did it more than 30min ..... I close all vents and water bottle cap ... and drive car But my temperature keep fluctuate up down from 80 90 ...and reach 95 and then back to 80 alot of times like up down up down every 1min up down .... It's normal or what ......
Probably still air in the system. Drive it, wait until cold, open both vents one by one, first bottom and then top. Do this seberal times until only water comes out, no air. Squeeze the radiator hoses a few times to help cler ny air. Top up the coolant. If this does not help, then do the header tank, something that fits well on the coolant tank and run the car until no more air bubbles come out. Rev the engine from time to time. That would certainly clear everything.
Hi, are there 2 bleeding valves on PEUGEOT Partner 2017 1.6. ? I got the one next to the air pipe, but I am struggling to find the second one. Any suggestion? Thank you
It is still there. It is just that for a few days in a year I need to pass annual inspection (MOT) and I have to remove the oil catch can altogether. It is classed as a modification to the emissions and will fail the car. It just happens that I filmed the video in this particular week.
Hi chris, if you have access to Diagbox/Lexia you can check the fuel pressure there and wait for the pressure to drop to atmospheric one. It will not be too long once the engine is shut. Otherwise you have to just wait for the pressure to drop, I would leave it overnight
It is possible to be fluctuating quite a bit if not bled correctly or overheating, but staying at 60C is likely to be early opening of the thermostat or always staying at open. If it never reaches 82C it maybe a dodgy temp sensor.
@@moremolecules Thanks for the answer! I had changed my sensor , then my thermostat (with new sensor ) and T dropped form 75C to about 60C. I think that actually T is OK , just the reading is wrong , but can't find what causes it. Talking about Citroen c4 , but basicly the same car :).
@@tsetsooooo Yeah, it is probably the sensor. The problem with this sensor is that you need to drain all the coolant in order to replace it, but if the coolant is new you can capture it and put it back in.
@@moremolecules looking forward see ur new video, strange why psa doing this way, the car def has enough space for the air filter to be fitted near the battery and fuse box area.
@@Miles-wn1fd I agree, it is a bit of a poor design. I think ford 1.6TDCi, same engine, but filter box it better designed on that engine and the crankcase breather is a lot better than the integrated design of PSA. I guess that it depends on how much effort a manufacturer puts in the design, but it does increase the overall price of the cars afterwards.
@@moremolecules only shame is that the cable for the maf sensor is not long enough, otherwise we can simply use the tdci part and relocate the maf sensor
@@Miles-wn1fd Yes, the tdci way to turning the air pipes is a lot better and draws colder air easier. Their crankcase breather is also better than the PSA
Hello, I have a question 307 Saint and I started firing dpf and after firing such a situation you know the answer to this fil I added on TH-cam and the turnover jumps to 3000 revolutions Bartek Bartek
Not too sure if I understood the question though. I looked at the video and I suppose this is on idle the revs keep at 3,000. Does the engine sound like 3000? If not then something with the instrument cluster, try unplugging and plugging back again. But otherwise I am not too sure and difficult to diagnose remotely, there is no idle control valve on the 1.6HDi, so potentially faulty MAF sensor. Try to disconnect it and see if it makes any difference. Could be somewhat fluctuating vacuum to the turbo wastegate, but unlikely.
It was idling after fap firing. But then it was fine. As I disconnect the maf sensor and check it, I will write if something has changed@@moremolecules
@@moremolecules Thx, belonging to the Febi Bilstaine,BluePrint germany group, they put this liquid in when I changed the distribution kit, but I will complain and want the original, because I paid the same price as the original psa.
Hi Lesley, yes certainly, but make sure the level is not dropping with time, as that might suggest some leak or head gasket rupture somewhere, although for head gasket issues you will see either oil in the coolant (as well as excessive pressure in the coolant tank) and/or heavy white smoke during driving.
Yeah, there is another thing going on as well. The newer the car the more difficult is designed to be repaired/maintained. Any older model, even the Peugeots will be easier to work on the older it is. It is not so much the manufacturer, they all do it. It is like any other household applience, made to be discarded and new one bought instead of repair.
The procedure should be the same, although the bleed points number and position might not be. Best to do it with a header tank, that would clear all air in the system.
As far as I know, there should be two bleed nipples in the 2009 1.6HDi, although the position of the heater one might be at a different place, for example on the left rather than on the right as in mine. The thermostat should be the same.
@@moremolecules heaters are not working mate but i think it’s either bleed nipple not open or thermostat do you agree mate, any chance u could locate the 2nd nipple for me or try find the location for me be great if u could
@@wildfruits477 Not too sure whre the nipples are, but I can have a look. If I find something I will let you know. If the heater not working at all or just on the highest setting? If it is not working at all it could be a faulty thermostat and opening too early giving you no heat, but eventually will produce heat.
I’ve found the other nipple mate couldn’t believe how much air came out, but still heaters ain’t working at all, is it correct that the c4 grand Picasso’s heaters work of compression?
@@wildfruits477 Well done, but as far as I know none of them work on compression, it is the heated coolant the circulates around and through the heater matrix gives you heat. Is air coming through the heater on all settings? Even though you have removed some air, run it for a bit, then bleed again. You could use a header tank, that would work better.
@tkowalczuk Yes, I generally tend not to oversimplify people's opinion, but there is always this: "These and these cars are shit". I am yet to see a car that has been designed with repairs in mind, none. Manufacturers are not in the business of longevity.
Strange as i just searched for this procedure and you only uploaded today. thanks,very informative👍
Haha, I guess it just happened, good luck!
Thank you..your videos are very well made and very helpful.. i have a 307 1.6hdi and have learned alot from your videos..
Thanks for posting this, it is very useful as I have a Citroen Berlingo 1.6 Hdi I need to bleed the system on.
Done coolant change today made my own header tank like you did just used plumbers tape instead of rubber o ring and a tesco 1 litre clothes softener bottle filed down treads then wrapped plunbers tape round and worked a treat,cheers buddy👍
A good TIP is to undo the reservoir cap after you undo the lower house, its reduce the pressure.
Great advice! Thank you
Well. Perfectly explained ! Thanks very much
Excellent video, easy to follow and good workmanship.
Thank you!!
Very good guide. Informative and will help anyone that needs to do the same :-)
Thank you very much!
A brilliant video. Love that syringe!
Thank you very good vid ..done mine worked a treat thank you😊
I empty the complete circuit by removing a plug located behind the engine, at the outlet of the junction box to the water pump.
Hi Arturo, I agree, although sealing the plug is difficult. That is solely the reason I did not do that.
Nicely done!
I have this to do on 1.4 hdi (208).
👍🏻
I think you also have to drain cylinder block, and that is done by removing the thermostat housing. If the block remains full then you would drain less than the 11L and re-fill less as well. I have the 208 Blue HDi. I looks like the battery has to come out to remove the thermostat and that does not look easy - lots of cables with unusual connectors.
I agree that this needs to be drained as well, but there have multitude of problems sealing it again. So, I decided not to drain it. It is not 11L, maybe for the 208 Blue HDi it is, but for me it is less than 0.5L-1L from the block drain.
Another impressive maintenance 👌
very good engine
Thanks for this. I have subscribed cos I like your videos.
Excellent video and explanation 👍
Another great video thanks
So if there is still air in the heater matrix after running the engine and getting It hot, surely if its a pressurised system, leaving the reservoir cap on, venting the upper bleed valve should let the air out? Great video thankyou. Wish I'd seen it before starting the job!
Yes, that is correct, after you have run it, as it is pressurised system opening the two valves will let the air out.
Mine is a 58 plate. The upper bleed point is behind the air filter but unlike yours, is below the reservoir. Got around 3½ litres out but only 2½ back in. Started engine and although hot, top hose to rad wouldn't warm, had to take it for a run before the stat opened then coolant level dropped, got some more in and re-bled. Engine cooling and no doubt I'll get more in again.
@@Igotknobblies Exactly why I ended the video with a header tank! My top bleeding nipple is also below the reservoir, so the need for a header tank.
How did the Halfords OAT coolant work out? Would you recommend it for this engine? Or something else? I read that low silicate is required.
The original Glysantin G33 doesn't seem to be available anymore, and the Glysantin G30 is pretty expensive, and can't be mixed with the original, so I'm a bit worried about anything new mixing with the liter or so of what is left in the engine block. What coolant would you recommend now? Thanks for great videos!
Good question 🙂 Yes, the Halfords OAT worked pretty good. The video is ~2 years now, so 2 years since I am driving with the Halfords' OAT coolant. No problems whatsoever! The coolant temp has been as before, rock solid. As far as I know it is silicate free, that is why I bought it. I would recommend it, as I have used it for quite a few years, not only the HDi, but my 1.6 petrol version as well. Have not see any problems with the mixing and I did mix the old one with the OAT to see if there will be any gelling, but all was good.
@@moremoleculesThanks for the reply MoreMolecules, good idea to check for gelling. I don't know how big the problem of incompatible coolants is, or if it is even that obvious until corrosion or lack of cold\heat protection becomes apparent?
I think I will try to syringe out the liquid left in the block via the bottom reservoir pipe to be on the safe side.
Removing the block drain plug seems fraught, so I'll leave that in. It will be just my luck that the O Ring on the block plug(2006 vintage) will fail next week and I'll have to go fishing for it anyway and end up refilling again!
PSA B 71 5110 certified coolant is hard to find, There is a Kroon Oil Antifreeze SP14 that says it meets the specification, but only available in 1litre bottles! Febi 19402 states it is 'recommended' for B71 5110, but I it doesn't say that it is certified. It also appears that the Glysantin G30 previously used by some dealers is not specified to B71 5110 either!
In the end I think I'm going to use Comma G30 as it is equivalent to Glysantin G30 and so should be available across Europe if I need to top up in an emergency. The Comma G30 says it is no silicate like the cheaper Halfords OAT. I bet it is virtually the same thing.
Mannol G12+ is less than half the price of even the Halfords OAT, and says it is OAT with no silicate, so very tempting, but I don't know how available it is in other countries. I also read some bad reviews on low temperature protection, but who knows.
Another cheap option is Jovs Red, OAT with no silcate, but again, availability for emergency top ups might be an issue out of the UK.
I buy Glysantin G33 original coolant from the internet and it is not that expensive. This engine is picky and OEM coolant is the best for this it.
Thank you, this is very helpful.
Great video. Thankyou for the upload. 👍
She's a gusher. Good video
Please tell me if these steps are same for Peugeot 407 1.8 benzine 116Hp ? Thanks & Like
Nice video.Thank you for sharing.
Thank you, thank you, da nu prea am înțeles nimic ! No, nu prea știu engleza, mă scuzați!!
Great video, thanks
I want to flush mine with deionised water prior to coolant. Is this simply the same as the coolant fill but your doing it twice? Thanks.
Yes, correct. Drain, fill with deionised/distilled water, remove the air in the system, drive it a few times until hot and then replace with coolant. Coolant will be slightly on the diluted part, but you can use concentrate to bring it to the required percent. You can do as many as you want refills with water. I did it for a few times with my other car until the water coming out was really clean.
@@moremolecules thank you very much. Thanks for taking the time to reply 👍
1.6 hdi 2007 berlingoThe temperature rises to 95 degrees on the upper roads. As it goes down, it returns to normal again. Even though I researched a lot, I couldn't find a solution. can you help me? Thank you.
That is rather unusual. My 1.6HDi 2007 does not move from ~82C. Only once, stationary in the heat moved towards 90C. There could be some blockage in the coolant system. I would suggest empty all coolant and refil with trying to empty any pockets of air. See here: th-cam.com/video/CSmm2SCpPCs/w-d-xo.html
Should the reservoir cap still on while bleeding it in the screw?
The reservoir cap should be off to let air in. For a little bit off is not a problem, but the reservoir cp should be removed.
I did all you did .... Water keep go up and down in funnel fan start working and when open thermostat vent alot of hot air out .... Alot like I did it 15 times and alot of hot air out if keep going will go alot of air but I did it more than 30min ..... I close all vents and water bottle cap ... and drive car But my temperature keep fluctuate up down from 80 90 ...and reach 95 and then back to 80 alot of times like up down up down every 1min up down .... It's normal or what ......
Probably still air in the system. Drive it, wait until cold, open both vents one by one, first bottom and then top. Do this seberal times until only water comes out, no air. Squeeze the radiator hoses a few times to help cler ny air. Top up the coolant.
If this does not help, then do the header tank, something that fits well on the coolant tank and run the car until no more air bubbles come out. Rev the engine from time to time. That would certainly clear everything.
Hi, are there 2 bleeding valves on
PEUGEOT Partner 2017 1.6. ? I got the one next to the air pipe, but I am struggling to find the second one. Any suggestion? Thank you
Yeah, I do not know about the 2017 model. If you cannot find a second one, then just use a header tank, that would certainly work and expell all air.
Do you have to bleed again for bubbles after the engine got warm up with heater on?
I would do it, as it minimises any potential for air bubbles to be present.
@@moremolecules thank you so much I already did it and should be fine👌🙏
What happened to the good old oil catch can? :)
It is still there. It is just that for a few days in a year I need to pass annual inspection (MOT) and I have to remove the oil catch can altogether. It is classed as a modification to the emissions and will fail the car. It just happens that I filmed the video in this particular week.
Do you know how to release fuel pressure from a Citroen berlingo 1.6 hi 2007
Hi chris, if you have access to Diagbox/Lexia you can check the fuel pressure there and wait for the pressure to drop to atmospheric one. It will not be too long once the engine is shut. Otherwise you have to just wait for the pressure to drop, I would leave it overnight
Is it possible if it is not bled correctly , sensor to show no more than 60°C ?
It is possible to be fluctuating quite a bit if not bled correctly or overheating, but staying at 60C is likely to be early opening of the thermostat or always staying at open. If it never reaches 82C it maybe a dodgy temp sensor.
@@moremolecules Thanks for the answer! I had changed my sensor , then my thermostat (with new sensor ) and T dropped form 75C to about 60C. I think that actually T is OK , just the reading is wrong , but can't find what causes it. Talking about Citroen c4 , but basicly the same car :).
@@tsetsooooo Yeah, it is probably the sensor. The problem with this sensor is that you need to drain all the coolant in order to replace it, but if the coolant is new you can capture it and put it back in.
can you make a video of cold air intake? the oem design has way too many flaws, its rattle and leaks. thanks
I have been thinking about this, but have not yet really worked on it. I will see if I can do something about this, maybe.
@@moremolecules looking forward see ur new video, strange why psa doing this way, the car def has enough space for the air filter to be fitted near the battery and fuse box area.
@@Miles-wn1fd I agree, it is a bit of a poor design. I think ford 1.6TDCi, same engine, but filter box it better designed on that engine and the crankcase breather is a lot better than the integrated design of PSA. I guess that it depends on how much effort a manufacturer puts in the design, but it does increase the overall price of the cars afterwards.
@@moremolecules only shame is that the cable for the maf sensor is not long enough, otherwise we can simply use the tdci part and relocate the maf sensor
@@Miles-wn1fd Yes, the tdci way to turning the air pipes is a lot better and draws colder air easier. Their crankcase breather is also better than the PSA
Hello, I have a question 307 Saint and I started firing dpf and after firing such a situation you know the answer to this fil I added on TH-cam and the turnover jumps to 3000 revolutions Bartek Bartek
18 listopada 2020 Bartek my video
Not too sure if I understood the question though. I looked at the video and I suppose this is on idle the revs keep at 3,000. Does the engine sound like 3000? If not then something with the instrument cluster, try unplugging and plugging back again. But otherwise I am not too sure and difficult to diagnose remotely, there is no idle control valve on the 1.6HDi, so potentially faulty MAF sensor. Try to disconnect it and see if it makes any difference. Could be somewhat fluctuating vacuum to the turbo wastegate, but unlikely.
It was idling after fap firing. But then it was fine. As I disconnect the maf sensor and check it, I will write if something has changed@@moremolecules
Nice video,. organic swag coolant for peogeot hdi green is ok?
Hi Antonio, honestly, I do not know about the swag coolant. I suspect it may be easier just to fire an e-mail to the company and see if they it is OK.
@@moremolecules Thx,
belonging to the Febi Bilstaine,BluePrint germany group, they put this liquid in when I changed the distribution kit, but I will complain and want the original, because I paid the same price as the original psa.
Can I just top up the coolant if it's not at max
Hi Lesley, yes certainly, but make sure the level is not dropping with time, as that might suggest some leak or head gasket rupture somewhere, although for head gasket issues you will see either oil in the coolant (as well as excessive pressure in the coolant tank) and/or heavy white smoke during driving.
I had a 1997 honda cr-v, now bought a 2010 308 1.6hdi sw, compared to honda this is incredibly badly designed and needlesly difficult to do
oh well...
Yeah, there is another thing going on as well. The newer the car the more difficult is designed to be repaired/maintained. Any older model, even the Peugeots will be easier to work on the older it is. It is not so much the manufacturer, they all do it. It is like any other household applience, made to be discarded and new one bought instead of repair.
Is this same on 1.6 ehdi 8v engine?
The procedure should be the same, although the bleed points number and position might not be. Best to do it with a header tank, that would clear all air in the system.
Is there 2 bleed nipples on the c4 grand Picasso 2009 diesel 1.6hdi
As far as I know, there should be two bleed nipples in the 2009 1.6HDi, although the position of the heater one might be at a different place, for example on the left rather than on the right as in mine. The thermostat should be the same.
@@moremolecules heaters are not working mate but i think it’s either bleed nipple not open or thermostat do you agree mate, any chance u could locate the 2nd nipple for me or try find the location for me be great if u could
@@wildfruits477 Not too sure whre the nipples are, but I can have a look. If I find something I will let you know. If the heater not working at all or just on the highest setting? If it is not working at all it could be a faulty thermostat and opening too early giving you no heat, but eventually will produce heat.
I’ve found the other nipple mate couldn’t believe how much air came out, but still heaters ain’t working at all, is it correct that the c4 grand Picasso’s heaters work of compression?
@@wildfruits477 Well done, but as far as I know none of them work on compression, it is the heated coolant the circulates around and through the heater matrix gives you heat. Is air coming through the heater on all settings?
Even though you have removed some air, run it for a bit, then bleed again. You could use a header tank, that would work better.
French cars are so difficult to fix
Haha, I would say easier than other brands.
@@moremolecules more difficult than japanese ones for exemple,arent they?
@tkowalczuk yes,the plugs are too difficult to reach
@tkowalczuk give me news about your car's issue
@tkowalczuk Yes, I generally tend not to oversimplify people's opinion, but there is always this: "These and these cars are shit". I am yet to see a car that has been designed with repairs in mind, none. Manufacturers are not in the business of longevity.
Great video, thanks