Blend Door Actuator Failure A Look Inside (Dodge Blend Door Actuator)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ม.ค. 2019
- Blend Door Actuator Failure, What Failed. A look Inside the Dodge blend door actuator, common failure on Ford Chevy and how it works. We'll see how it works and Use a battery to Turn On the actuator.
How To Replace Blend Door Actuator: Ticking Noise in Dash Fix
• How to Replace Blend D...
I assume no liability for anything you choose to do to your own car. All Repairs you perform to your car are performed at your own risk. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Very good video. It was informative.
Saved me a week shipping and some cash. Thanks bro.
Superb demonstration 👌👌👌👌👌
Thank you🙂
I got the same truck like what you got and it's doing the same thing and I'll change the actuator and it now it's running good
Mine was locked up. Threw it against the concrete a few times and put some grease on it and it works beautifully now. Thanks for the helpful video.
Lol ive done that, but normally doesn't help fix it
Same with mine. Just hit it twice with the back of my screwdriver and it started working again!
@@yasmiellrodriguez248 Thanks for this response. Mine was not clicking just seemed to not work. I hit it a few times with the screwdriver but that wasn't enough force. So I took a dowel and a dead blow hammer and gave each a few whacks on the driver side and they came back to life. Thankfully since I hurt my back was gonna be a pain getting it out.
My question is how does the motor know when to stop? I see no feed back to the HVAC controller. does the HVAC controller sense the high current from a motor stall? It also makes me wonder how does ti know were to stop with a variable setting. I set my HVAC control to mid way between Hot and Cold, how does the HVAC know to stop it at the position?
If the large black gear loses a tooth , just dremel the spline opposite the missing spline and put the gear in so the dremeled spline lines up with the arrow on the case, It only rotates 90 degrees so now the broken tooth will never be hit.
How do the autozone and oreilly brands stack up to factory parts. And do you need to calibrate them on 2011 dodge nitro?
Fantastic!
Thank you🙂
Loved it
Thank you🙂
Do i really really need to sync my new actuator with a scanner once installed? My instructions say to do it.
How does the motor "know" when to stop? I had a motor that was not broken, but kept driving after the door was closed , and clicking. Pulled it, recycled the doors, and put it back in. Clicking stopped. It was like the computer was overdriving it in one direction, and not fully cycling in the other.
Actuator with cheap plastic gears predictably fails, but equally predictably only after the vehicle is out of warranty.
It's bizarrely easy to disassemble and repair these if your can get the right $0.15 plastic gear, yet many of these are buried so deep in the dashboard that it takes hundreds upon hundreds of dollars worth of mechanic time to get at them, often with many other now-brittle plastic parts to carefully move out of the way, that the cost of a new OEM actuator is cheap by comparison.
I'd never take the trouble to repair one of these, nor buy an after market part unless I knew it was engineered to outlast the OEM module, as these are likely available for about $40 or less from the manufacturer. I'd also look around to see if I'd uncovered any others in accessing the malfunctioning one, and ask the dealer parts department for the cost of new ones for all those I could now get at. Not a job I'd want to do more than once. Your time has value even if you're unemployed: you can always make more money, but you can never make more time.
Compare this tech to the HVAC control systems in most cars from the 1980s and prior that were almost all mechanical, with metal gears, connectors and flex cables that easily lasted 50 years, and were cheap and easy to replace if ever they did break. These computer operated, cheaply manufactured electromechanical actuators are nothing but carefully engineered planned obsolescence.
sometimes the gear shaft breaks too. Drill it out and put a nail through it and epoxy in place. Youll never get it back apart but it will work until you get the $17 Amazon replacement actuator in the mail!
Been having a problem with my AC only blowing cold when driving and then it stops and blows like a fan. Everyone that I've taken it to says that my AC unit is fine. I had ticking in my dash, changed the actuator and it was fine. The ticking noise started again and now it's back to only blowing cold when driven at times. Is it the actuator again?
And they checked the amount of ac refrigerant it has? If its low the ac clutch would come on and come off..and the compressor would click on and off cause of the clutch coming on and off..or Could also be that its having an issue with the ac compressor clutch itself
The defrost setting is staying on in our dodge ram, it won't switch to any other setting and doesn't seem like it is even changing in temperature either. We checked all the lines and can't seems to find a broken vacuum line or leak anywhere. When we would connect the terminals to the battery there is a strange sound coming from what appears to be the center of the dash. Do you think the actuator might be the problem? I haven't taken it off to look at it, because it is a god damn pain in the ass to get that second screw off I need to get special curved screwdriver.
Depends on the year but most newer ones are controlled by actuators now..is it a tight spot? How about putting a bit onto a 1/4 socket with small ratchet?
@@backyardchevy328 It's a super tight spot, I would probably need a right angle low profile screw ratchet. I had another look this morning it turns out one of the lines near the passenger side firewall was loose inside one of the connectors. I was able to just easily pull in and out of the rubber connector that connects to the little L shaped plastic. I figured that was the problem so I just wrapped some electrical tape around it to test it out and it did the trick. I had checked all the lines and there were no cracks anywhere, I was already about to give up on what it could be. It seems like they used some kind of glue or something to seal it and with time the glue slowly started cracking away, I'm guessing because of the heat of the engine over time. It's an 01 Dodge Ram 3500 by the way.
If your vehicle is like most these days, it sounds like that second screw you're referring to could be just the beginning. Successfully digging deep into a modern dashboard, especially if you've never done it before, requires watching the right instructional videos, then proceeding patiently and carefully, understanding that you may be removing plastic automotive panels and parts that are at an age where they're just begging for an excuse to crack. Also, at the point where you're getting to the airbag connectors, a good video will show you how to disconnect them before going further. If that's what you encounter you do NOT want to go at it willy-nilly, as you could damage expensive components or even inadvertently set off an airbag, and that may well be a catastrophic event in your life.
Patience, slow, steady and mindful progress, and the deeper you go into the dash the more important it will be really understand in advance what you're doing, to carefully organize the parts you remove, and to document your progress each step of the way, if only with your phone camera, so you'll have some reference to how it goes back together.
Note too that once you're getting very far into a dash, a professional mechanic is much less likely to take on the rest of the job, both for liability reasons and because it may be hard for them to understand what you've done that they'll have to undo.
My 1998 T&C is blowing hot air on the drivers side and cold air on the pax side. Would one of theses blend doors cause this ?
I just replaced the heater control module, and ran the diagnostic blend door test. It’s not passing because the top two buttons continue to flash.
Usually thats an issue with the heater core being dirty or partially plugged..if it had a separate temperature control knob for passenger then id probably be a blend door issue
@@backyardchevy328 (ty for the videos) I have a 2011 sxt awd. The passenger side blows hot while the left side works fine. How do I know which blend door is not working? Is it the actuator on the far right? I have already replace one actuator that was clicking a year ago but now this seems to be a different issue.
Also do you recommend an acid rad flush or is that too harsh?
@@giggleherz is it dual zone climate control? If it is then yea it would be a separate actuator for each side...and yea i think thats too harsh
@@backyardchevy328 It is dual climate control and I just ran it through all the settings. I get full control of the drivers side (hot&cold) but the passenger side is always full heat. Also this beast has rear climate so not sure if that makes any difference.
@@giggleherz yea in that case its gonna have like 5 of em and the one for the passenger side will probably have something wrong with it
Such a fucking great video excuse my language. Honestly.
Replaced 3 in my dodge avenger. Each time the gears were melted together from heat. So last 1 I drilled a few holes in the case, been over a year and hasnt melted. I used to go through 1 every 9 months.
Good fix on that one🙂👍
I have replaced one on a '09 Impala and two on a '13 Impala. Now the drivers side failed. Same problem. They are a pain to replace and the new part is junk just like the OEM.
Yea theyre made of cheap plastic gears
Question , why does my blend door actuator keep making the noise if I keep replacing it . It works for a little while then the noise comes back
How many times have u replaced it..and how long did it last? Well the main problem is theyre made with the same plastic gears they dont make any that i know of with metal gears which they should
I have replace it 3x since last winter . 2x a mechanic did it and once I did it , but can't figure out why it keeps clicking .
@@JDLC63 it could be that the flap its trying to open is somehow restricted/sticking or doesnt operate smoothly so that may be causing it to keep damaging the actuator
How do I fix that issue? And thank you for quick response I really appreciate it 👍
@@backyardchevy328 check out this video : th-cam.com/video/xjTHLHBwAVU/w-d-xo.html The guy explains about possible jammed door
Needed some grease. To avoid breaking gear.
Chrysler 300 drivers blend door actuator
Yea, and many other chrysler/dodge's actuator
yawn- Danny kicked ass on your vid -que poso...
I always hate it when Dodge.Always upgrade your stupid stuff.People pay for it at the end
typical junk from dorman, works for a year then u have to buy another unit. chrysler dealer sells this unit for 200 bucks.
Yea these actuators are so prone to failure, any aftermarket one's can be risky
are gloves really necessary? actuator must have been positive for covid