Adjusting the DBFS adjusts your full scale INPUT. Remember, gain isn't volume, it's attenuation of a signal. 0 being "max", you're getting that kind of performance with the signal clipped down 30dB below that. Careful though, adjusting it up could lead to clipping in the amps. That out of the way, I'm floored! Those JTR subs NEVER cease to amaze me, man! I love love LOVE sealed subs and JTR makes some of the finest sealed subs you can buy!
Today i have the chance to be there and listen to YOUTHMAN home theater . Those JTR are amazing . I Highly recommended JTR subwoofers . My ears are 100% agree that they sound amazing 🔊🔊🔊🔊.
Youthman same Here , i just got a little glimpse of what those Subwoofers can do . The next time I bringing a list of some of my favorite BASS TRACKS ( BASS PATROL , BASS MEKANIC ...) . 🔊🔊🔊🔊
True. I started my ht with 120 inch screen and small sony sub. Then upgraded to 142 screen with svs sub. Now youthman is making me want to get this jtrs but at least it's not as expensive as a drug addict, I read some articles that most drug addicts can spend easily up to $200/ day and around 80k a year !
Nice graphs and SPL! Definitely a different experience when you can feel the air getting dense but can't hear anything... It's a fun club to be a part of! Now I wanna see those hit 120+ dB! Make it happen!! 😉
for anything over 120db you need a Termlab mic. its what they use for SPL competitions. it will be way more accurate then that rta mic will be at high pressure levels. with two diy marty 18s i did just over 140db at my listening position at 18 hertz. I really think you should get into their ported version of this sub, it can be eq'd much better response than the sealed can. Also doing sweeps at -30db will cause you to turn your receiver way past reference level, which inturn can clip the output before even reaching the amplifiers.
Very curious if you've tried this with the miniDSP 2X4HD. A lot of time was spent getting the 2X4HD configured just right.... How does that compare to how well DIRAC's bass management add-on performed? DIRAC Bass Management vs. 2X4HD... What's better?
I think you are getting things confused. You can use dirac on a 2x4hd just need to buy the software update. MiniDSP 2x4 you can auto calculate a curve that can be imported into a minidsp from REW. Dirac is definitely better because its much easier for a regular user. Both can achieve the exact same thing DIRAC just does it easier. There is also more filters in DIRAC.
@@sparco317 No sir,.... Not confused at all. I own a 2X4HD and I'm quite familiar with it's capabilities To clarify, I'm curious of which did a better job between the result of the 4+ hours he and his friend spent manually measuring/tweaking parameters, in the 2X4HD OR the result of what DIRAC did during auto calibration, via the Bass Control add-on (before incorporating the 2X4HD back into it, if he did). I hope this make my insert more clear.
@@pttsjsph0 Using REW to auto generate eq filters does not take 4+ hours. If it does it better be flatter than a pancake. Dirac has more filters in general, and is why it is more expensive. I would place my bets that dirac does a way better job than anyone could manually.
@@sparco317 LOL Erick.... You need to catch up on Youthman's prior miniDSP video. He's the one who spent 4+ hours (with his friend's help) tweaking the parameters, and Youthman was very happy with the end result. You're totally misunderstanding my question, for Youthman.
Don't know if it's worth going for 24" subs, like the FUNK AUDIO LFE ULTRA 24. It's rated at 10,000W PEAK. But, it's 9k. 2 of them = 18k and that's rich territory. But is ask myself, how does audi's law of diminishing return play out in the case of FUNK ?
There were several reasons. 1) I do not have enough depth. 2) My room is only 13’ x 19’ with 10’ ceilings. I don’t need more output than (4) 18’s 3) Ported subs behind would move the screen even more than sealed 4) Aesthetically the RS2’s are the same exact height as my 212HTR’s. If you have the space for the 4000’s, they are beast. But everyone that has experienced My Home Theater thinks I have tactile transducers. The RS2’s provide massive tactile response in my room and I have a concrete floor.
just a thought: is the subwoofer plate amp at max volume? could give you that increased volume you are looking for. and mic volume could be lowered so that you could continue testing at high spl. minus 20db and do the calculations to figure in the charts the new decibels you get. Don't know if this is the correct way to do this.
Curious as to the permance improvement over the psa 3612's, as they range from 500 to 1000 dollars less than the jtr (which is no doubt awesome) and are ported
In the recent days (HT tours) you experienced near field subs just behind the sitting position. In terms of *tactile feel* Which is gives better tactile feel ? 1. keeping the subs around 10 ft away and SPL measuing around 110 dB at sitting position. Vs 2. Near field sub ??
@@Youthman that is eaxctly my experience too !!! I built some diy 18" subs. Near field really rocks !! But when we have two or three rows of seats in home theater, accomodating near field sub for all seats is nearly impossible 😂
You’re measuring with a -30dBFS signal. Send it a hotter signal if you don’t want to crank the main volume as much. Would be interesting to see the distortion tab in REW as well ;) Next time it would be cool to see to 200Hz to see how Dirac handled the crossover region. Leave smoothing off :)
Hey YM, impressive, most impressive I can’t wait to finish my theater room and get into REW so keep learning so whereas I can learn from you I really want to master it at some point that’s my goal anyways enjoy the videos have a great holiday🇺🇸🙏🏼👍
I have 3 15" monolith thx subs ,one single and the m215 and I no how loud these are. They go dw to 10hz in my room . I couldn't imagine these things ,wow
Got my dual TV36Ipal last week, JTR 4000ULF is expected next week. Can't wait to get these dialed. The TV36Ipals by itself rock, can't imagine what 4000ULF will add. The 4000ULF is planned to be used nearfield.
@Youthman bro i just got my JTR RS2 shipped 2 weeks ago. The Output , TR , Wind and force is Solid! Effortless endgame sub indeed! Thanks for u video and unboxing video!😊 Curious May i know whats your gain Level and LF adjust in u room behind u AT screen? Cheers thanks agian.
I always bump 25 Hz by another 3-6 dB over 35 Hz, which are again 3-6 dB higher than 45 Hz and so on. I found that very low, including sub 20, need more output in reality to be perceived as loud as -10/-12 dB on lets say 45 Hz. My frequency reponse basically goes from like 110 dB at 15 Hz to 105 dB at 25 Hz to 100 dB at 35 Hz down to around 80ish at mid and 70 at highs. To me sounds like it's flat, but apparently is not.
Hi Ajitman.. hope you are doing well.. at this point of time I need your advise . I have bought Zappiti pro 4k HDR for my home theatre .. I wish to know the following : 1. Name of Hollywood movies 4K download authentic sites where I can get the movies in my SATA HDD 2. How to rip my existing collections of 4K n Blu-ray movies to my SATA HDD Looking forward your prompt valuable advise .. Regards’
I love JTR!!!! I recently received my captivator 4000 ULF and I absolutely love it in my theater. Jeff took care of me and walked me through the entire way, but I think it would be beneficial for me to get this software to dial it in even more. Would it be possible for me you to help me get it all tuned up? Thanks!
Congratulations Shane. Unfortunately I do not have the ability to offer one-on-one calibration but there are many guys in audio forums and Facebook groups that you could hire to do that.
Have you ever tried Pro Audio subs in a home theater? QSC KS118 single 18 inch 3,600 watts, 136dB, $2,000. I know they only go down to 35Hz but a pair of these in the home will shake the foundation!
Hi Youthman, you did a size comparison of the JTR Captivator 2400XS, but I do not think you did a review of it. Would you by chance still remember what you thought of it. I am having a hard time on what subwoofer to get for a 20ft (W) x 14ft (D) x10ft (H) room. Also can the RS2 be placed horizontally? Does it make a difference between vertical or horizontal? Thanks!!!
Sorry I thought you mentioned 2400XS in this video th-cam.com/video/VCSxoel7tb8/w-d-xo.html ... was wondering how it performed. I was thinking if this is enough rather than 4000ULF or RTS like yours
In my room, sealed is a better fit since I’m using it directly behind my screen and the 4000ULF is too deep to fit anyways. If you need more output, the 4000ULF will get the job done
@@Youthman I also went sealed (dual 18" Rythmiks) due to size (and money) constraints. I just watched Bumblebee with my family last night (on Amazon Prime) and I was very impressed with the bass and surround effects, especially during the first 5 minutes of the movie. I recommend checking it out if you haven't done so already. Also, completely unrelated, I just bought some Youthman merch and my wife loved what I picked out! I got the Home Theater Enthusiast t-shirt in black.
Awesome! I haven’t seen Bumblebee yet but am always looking for good demo content. Thanks for purchasing my merch. You and your wife have good taste 😂. In all seriousness, I certainly appreciate the support
Hi Michael, I am curous about your selection. The Captivator 4000ULF is ported, as well as the Captivator 4000ULF-TL, and both of these subs also have dual 18' drivers with 4,000 watts. Was your decision made because sealed speakers are said to have a better frequence reponse, or was it anothe motivation for you to go with the sealed unit?
The main reason was the 4000ULF is too deep to fit behind my AT screen and ported subs blow a ton of air against the screen. If I had a larger room or either had tons of space behind the screen, I would have likely gone with the 4000ULF
I did wish after you had your final measurement you tightened your graph db to 30 maybe 40db limit instead of 70-130db= 70db limit. Was there any other smoothening applied within REW settings?
Hi youhtman how are..🙂 Have to ask if you remember Howe the PSA S3611 played If it was far after the JTR RS2..? Or do you feel that you could have gone with 2 psa S3611 as well and have been pleaced Whit that like you are now with your 2 JTR RS2..? Or could you say what the diffrens are and feels like betwin Them..,🙂.? Best regards/Peter
Hi Peter, the PSA S3611 and JTR Captivator RS2 are definitely in the same league. Both well beyond my previous PB16’s in output and lower extension. Either brand you would be satisfied with.
@@Youthman Hi again wich One do you think of you can remember have the best midbass and wich One have the best down lows TR..? Looking betwin 2 JTR RS1 or 2 PSA S3012 but cant Realy deside..😣 whant the One whit best midbass..🙂
Youthman how do you feel about sealed boxes? I know you used to be a ported box guy until you went with JTR. So give me your honest feedback and thoughts please
Ported tend to have more tactile feel and generate more output. With that said, going from a pair of PB16’s (dual 15’s) to a pair of JTR Captivator RS2’s (4 18’s), there is no comparison, especially below 20Hz. I feel that I get the best of both worlds. I’m getting ridiculous output and tactile base response because of the four 18s, but also have a super clean, tight sound with no port noise (that I used to get at high excursion with the PB16’s)
Those are insane!! Very impressed. So if I were tuning my sub with this, would I run Audyssey with the gain set for the AVR to go to -5db, and then increase that setting by a few DB's repeatedly until I got to compression, and then pick the last level that did not show compression? I just feel like I can tune my VTF-15H MK2 better than where it is set now, just using Audyssey.
I would just start with your volume at -15 to -10dB in your AVR and run a sweep, then increase 3dB and repeat until the line no longer looks the same as the others. Usually compression will take place in the lower frequencies first
Yeah that was a good video! I'm just confused on crossing between volume level and AVR channel level. Maybe I'm thinking about it wrong. I still want a second sub though.
Great video! Great test! Definitely impressive! This is with a total of four 18" drivers right? It would be interesting to see distortion measurements, I'm guessing it's pretty low. I'm not sure if REW is designed to do that but you can download and use ARTA for non commercial purposes for free. I'm also not sure about that microphone, not all microphones are suitable for distortion measurements. It may be fine, I just don't know its capabilities. How is the low frequency uniformity around your listening area? It would be interesting to see a video comparing measurements from each individual seat.
Youthman Mike you found some incredible subwoofers the only question is what would be the price tag I think they're a bit too loud for me. I have a small room but I love your videos to give suggestions on all kinds of audio equipment thank you so very much God bless,
You can somewhat tune it because its sealed, but its nothing like tuning the ported boxes to 10hz which they do, this will cause some extreme dips in the higher end bass above 30hz but with a ton of bass extension. I guess they are HT but I figure the ported subs tuned to 10hz will lack punch in the upper region. Any ported box tuned low suffers from that and no EQ can fix it because you run into cone excursion limits
I'm a little confused, trying to get into home audio...very familiar with car audio....I'm an electrician by original trade. With the RS2 Captivators being self amplified, how are you powering an 4000W internally powered sub from your subwoofer to your electrical breaker? This is common question I also have regarding most higher powered subs like the Monolith 16" THX and the SVS PB16.
Hey Youthman. I had asked you about the PSA 3612 and SVE ultra and you said the PSA would have better SPL. What about SQL? I've been talking to SVS about the Ultras and of course they want me to buy them and told me I need 3 to get the same output as the PSA but that the tightness PSA and JTR can't equal becuase of the coil size that SVS has controlling the driver. Thoughts?
Hi Jim. I owned the PB16’s for a few years and although they were great subs, they simply are not on the level of JTR in either output or sound quality. I can assure you my activator RS2’s are incredibly tight and have ridiculous output and low end extension. The PB16’s have better looks and the SVS App. But as far as performance, in my experience, the PB16 is no match for the RS2’s.
@@Youthman Hey thanks for the reply. One more quick one please. What about thenPSA 3612, you said that the 3611 had more SLP but how about SQL. In your opinion does the 3611/3612 have better SQL than the SVS Ultras as well? Thank you
The reason your running out of room is because when you did your Dirac calibration the subs were too loud, so those are set way too negative, the quietest speakers are now the new zero. So your subs are being electronically held back. If you redo a calibration with the subs turned down so the numbers are all closer to 0 or your subs are the new 0, you'll find the results you're looking for then bump the dial back to this position. For the loudness you want
But you can't hear 8hz!. However I would love a pair but I will stick to my SVS since that's what I can afford. I ain't mad at you though and God bless.
I mentioned that in the video. It’s not what you hear, it’s what you experience. You can hear bass from ANY subwoofer. Experiencing subsonic frequencies is a different story.
@@Youthman Oh, definitely - measurements of the RS2's indicate no lacking in the midbass, but going by one's ears exclusively I find ULF-tuned subs to typically sound rather different compared to subs tuned higher - the operative word here being 'different.' In any case: it must quite an experience being treated to sub 10Hz linear performance with quad 18" drivers..!
Youth man- thanks for what you do. Sadly my rsw15 is on its last leg. I’ve read up on the JTR. I love them. Why you pick this to test? I run klipsch klf20’s for sides, and rc7 center, amd rs7 for rears. On a Denon receiver. Any light on this would be great.
Hi Mike sorry to hear you’re RSW 15 is struggling. I had 1 of my 4 amps fail so I knew with them being 15 years old, it was only a matter of time. I reviewed dual PB16’s and sold my RSW15’s and bought the PB16’s. A lot of people in my comments were saying if I liked SVS, I really need to check out GTR. At that time I had never heard of them but reached out to Jeff to see if he would be interested and having me review some of his subwoofers. After about a year he finally was able to send me a pair and it was absolutely game changer. No comparison. Super clean, no port chuffing, ridiculous output and my RS2’s are flat down to 8Hz.
@@Youthman thanks that is the subwoofer I been looking at from JTR myself. I seen they have a couple of subs that claims lower htz. But, feel the one in this video is perfect for me. You say 2 rsw15 to one of JTR is good comparison? Except better range
A single JTR Captivator RS2 will easily outperform (4) Klipsch RSW15’s both in output and lower frequency extension. The RSW15’s drop like a rock at 20Hz. My RS2’s are tuned to 10Hz and in my room I am flat down to 8Hz.
@@Youthman how about fidelity? I watched you run the svs, monolith, I don’t want to lose sight of fidelity, but when wanting to throw down its there! Deep rich, bass. Klipsch did pretty good at blending.
The subwoofers have completely changed my movie watching experience. Incredibly clean base, especially after I added a mini DSP 2 x 4 HD. I think you would be surprised to know just how much content is below 20 Hz
YouthMan l’ve got a Question for you! I need to upgrade my subwoofer 🔊 from klipsch R 110sw to Svs PB3000 model,but I have a concern ? I’ve heard that svs subwoofers making humming noise even @ standby, because my klipsch is dead quite even at standby and also when I’m playing @ high volume...... and I can’t tolerate even a low level hum..! What’s your opinion? Thanks.
My opinion is you need to contact SVS support. If you are hearing a hum, they might be able to help either by sending a replacement unit (if it's defective) or offer some advice regarding a ground loop issue you might have in your electrical that is causing it. Some guys have used a "cheater plug" to remove a hum from their system or something like this - amzn.to/2P5uOD9
how did you separate each channel like L, R and then only subs to be measured. I get both L/R and subs running for measurements? Your video from 4:00 is what i am referring to. Thanks!
Space. I can't fit a 4000ULF behind my screen. Not deep enough. Plus ported subs blow my screen and with sealed subs, you don't have to worry about port chuffing. With (4) 18's, I don't need any more bass. These have a ridiculous amount of output and are flat in my room down to 5Hz.
Cap 4000ULF is a much larger cabinet which will provide more overall output but similar bass extension. With dual RS2’s, I have ZERO need for more output.
Would it be better to put one in the front and one in the rear I'm just thinking all that bass is in front of you why not have some behind you? I look at a room typically with four corners 1 sub in each Corner that's just from what I do
Hello Michael, would it be possible for us to see a comparison chart with any REL flagship subwoofer and your incredible captivator? Being bit curious in here and that is the reason I asked.
Hi Jesson, I would have no problem doing that but I do not believe our REL will be sending me any to review as long as I have my Klipsch LaScalas. Last year they were going to send me one of their subwoofers to review, but when John Hunter their lead engineer found that I had La Scala’s, he was concerned that they would not blend well with them due to the high sensitivity of my LaScalas
@@Youthman Okay Michael, Thats fine. Will wait to see if they are sending a pair for review. Otherwise will leave this case. However I am not seeing anything better than your RS2 setup. Thats amazing. 115dB at 8hz is super amazing. Anyway thanks for the reply Mich. Take care.
Hey, I had a question. Does the HTP-1 support upgradable HDMI ports like the Emotiva RMC-1 ? Or is it just snake oil on the RMC-1 and there's no way I can future proof my HDMI connection for a good number of years.
Hobie from Monoprice said they plan to offer a chance to upgrade the HDMI board once they are available. I am not sure if it will be user upgradeable or if you will need to send your unit in. Monoprice has been listening to user feedback and correcting bugs much faster than Emotiva. I own the HTP-1 and am very happy with its performance, sound quality and solid HDMI performance.
For the most part, subwoofers don’t change and can remain in your system for a very long time. AVR tech changes rapidly so the longer you wait, the cheaper it becomes and along comes the next latest /greatest tech.
Question, I know you work with minidsp for your subs and now are playing with Dirac. Is the paid version (even though more expensive) of dirac for sub management better than the minidsp?
I’m certainly no expert on miniDSP or Dirac but have a friend who is look at the Bass Control and he said as soon as Emotiva adds Bass Control for his RMC-1, he will no longer need his miniDSP-1. He said Bass Control does everything his miniDSP does and more.
@@Youthman @Youthman yeah after seeing the price points in your video it had me thinking if the investment would be worth it or just go minidsp. The integrated option just seems appealing and so far with what you have shown dirac is very meticulous when it comes to calibrations. I hope that's the case and can't wait for the final comparison cause it's either 7705 or HTP-1 for me.
i think UMIK-1 only calibrated to 20hz, if you want to measure below 20hz, i think you need to upgrade to the higher class calibrated mic, like Earthworks M23 which is calibrated from 3hz up to 23khz, or you can re-calibrated the UMIK-1
@@Youthman yeah, its meant for ppl that do a daily job building speaker or just a hobbyist that really get into the speaker building or usually for studio works that need a really a really good calibrated mic, but just for regular ppl, i think its fine using UMIK-1. I am using behringer ECM8000 which is not even calibrated from factory, i'm planning to switch to EMM-6, anyways that sub can absolutely destroy ur home if you go all out with the volume at the REW
@@Youthman perhaps the ported version just has that extra bump in output than the sealed..and sealed is always an option if needed a smaller box overall i guess...i really care about extension...i hope i am not loosing any by choosing the ported over its sealed..altho...would the mariana 24sc actually go lower because of its 24 inch cone area and sealed ?? but its output...may not be enough ?? i dunno for sure....i know i will get loads of headroom with the JTR ported ..and from your video..even the sealed can give you some headroom lol
@@Youthman ok...its..a little more complicated than i would say " similar " response....so the sealed as usual not as loud as ported ..but...can go down to 5hz usable then sharp roll off....the ported can go down to 7hz usable then roll off but of course louder on frequencies below 20hz ..but from what i have seen here on your video...i should definitely go for the RS2 because of maximum extension requirements i want and also my room is much smaller than yours..so...room gain max ?? 12x12x7 WxDxH ..and of course some DSP to get MUCH flatter response along with some perhaps if i am lucky...EXTRA bass extension hehehehee
I do not have the tools to measure distortion levels but this is the best sounding sub I have experienced in my home theater. Not only in output but also it sound quality as well. If you ever get an opportunity to experience JTR, it’s an incredible experience.
The funny thing about bass/SPL is that almost nothing else makes the same sounds, so if you do suffer hearing loss you won't know; especially factoring in that audible hearing is said to not go down much below 60 Htz...but you will still feel it anyways. For permanent hearing loss usually requires volumes approaching 160 decibels continuous for up to 15 mins at a consistent frequency, and the loss would be mostly in that specific frequency too. Have any of you Bass Heads heard of the infamous and mythical "Brown Note" @ 6Htz at over 173 decibels...?
Unfortunately if you cannot hear frequencies below 60 Hz, you have significant hearing loss. Most people can hear down to around 20 Hz. I typically watch movies at -15dB. Short demos are around -10dB.
@@Youthman I see the standards for audible hearing have been changed to go down to 20 Htz now...I have almost no hearing loss and I am grateful for that. Still it would be very hard to tell that you have have had any audible hearing loss at such low levels, you would still feel the spl pressure (like if you put in foam ear plugs and then over ear protection on too, you would still hear/feel the bass same way pretty much). It might be harder to hear a sperm whale, at a safe distance or a pipe organ a mile away. It's the mids and the tweeters that can do the real damage, and you will notice it all the time, but still it needs to be very loud and on for a long time at a sustained frequency for permanent hearing loss. Note that percentage difference for 60-20,000Htz to 20-20,000Htz is like 0.002% , if you want to split hair cells in the Cochlear...? What I am saying is with my experience you are safe from permanent damage hearing loss in your own theater. Besides your ears will let you know, via discomfort before damage is permanent in that situation. 15 years of working in door arena concerts, 30 years of car audio, and many years working in loud plants too, with yearly hearing testing done... Can't wait to see what you do next to your awesome home theater.
I’m 90% movies and I love my RS2’s. If you have the space and can go with the 4000 ULF, they will provide even more output. But I’m completely happy with my (2) RS2’s in my 13’ x 19’ with 10’ ceiling room. JTR pricing increases on January 1. We would love to earn your business - www.obsessedhometheater.com.
@@YouthmanI will definitely use your link. I have followed you for a while now and you have helped me a lot with my early journey into Home Theater. Will the RS2’s still hit the lows very good? I would love to save the space, if I could. I just don’t want to buy the RS2’s wishing I had more, based on your videos it doesn’t seem like I will.
Ok i couldn't find any comments about this so, when you are doing a measurement you can play at a different level. You are using -30db signal. I normally don't place it at 0db but -3db just to keep the single wave not clipping. Then i start at -20db on the AVR/processor and go down from that. If you are at +3db on MV on the AVR, and play a -3db signal, you should get an avg of 115db of bass. I can do 115db at 10hz with 2x Dayton ultimax 18s, but i'm pushing them a bit, i don't reach xmax but man, they are moving uncomfortably too much for me. My speakers can't do reference, and i don' t want to do it :D. I'm normally listening at -8db.
I would love to know if there is a visual representation type of device to display the physical effect of that chest thumping. Similar to the long hair girls who sit in the large subwoofer cars and their hair flies in an out the window. Maybe an under inflated balloon on a glass bottle for example. I have no idea what would work though.
![โอ้เธอช่าง... - บี้เดอะสกา ft. ต๋อง เทวัญ (Prod. by ป๋าเพชร) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zbWhiLFmVL0/mqdefault.jpg)
I had for the longest time on my wish list the svs-pb 4000. Forget that I'm adding these to my list
Definitely my end game system. We would love to earn your business at www.obsessedhometheater.com
Adjusting the DBFS adjusts your full scale INPUT. Remember, gain isn't volume, it's attenuation of a signal. 0 being "max", you're getting that kind of performance with the signal clipped down 30dB below that.
Careful though, adjusting it up could lead to clipping in the amps.
That out of the way, I'm floored! Those JTR subs NEVER cease to amaze me, man! I love love LOVE sealed subs and JTR makes some of the finest sealed subs you can buy!
Them are definitely some bad ass subs! Can't wait for my 2400s to get here.
Congrats! Let me know how you like them
Man these subwoofers are absolutely insane, JTR sure knows how to make a subwoofer. Great video buddy.
Thanks Barrett. How is the new Funk Audio sub?
@@Youthman It is impressive as well. I have had to change my shorts a few times 😜. I am dropping the review today.
Awesome. Hoping you don’t show your shorts in the review lol
@@Youthman haha, you mean you dont want proof 😜
No thank you. I’m good 🤣🤣🤣
That’s absolutely insane measurements and results. Kudos youth man. I wish I could see and feel the power of those bad boys.
Thanks Matt
I have the chance to do that yesterday and they sound amazing 🔊🔊🔊🔊.
Today i have the chance to be there and listen to YOUTHMAN home theater . Those JTR are amazing . I Highly recommended JTR subwoofers . My ears are 100% agree that they sound amazing 🔊🔊🔊🔊.
It was great hanging out with you today
Youthman same Here , i just got a little glimpse of what those Subwoofers can do . The next time I bringing a list of some of my favorite BASS TRACKS ( BASS PATROL , BASS MEKANIC ...) . 🔊🔊🔊🔊
Not sure if you can handle it lol
Youthman i Do , i WAS a Car Audio Freak before Home theater 😁🔊🔊🔊🔊. Try Bass patrol ( NOTHING BUT BASS ) or DB JAMS VOLUME 2.
Home theater is addicting . It’s like crack cocaine. At first I was a newbie but I’m always looking for more . It can be a expensive hobby
True. I started my ht with 120 inch screen and small sony sub. Then upgraded to 142 screen with svs sub. Now youthman is making me want to get this jtrs but at least it's not as expensive as a drug addict, I read some articles that most drug addicts can spend easily up to $200/ day and around 80k a year !
The JTR Captivator RS2 subwoofers are laughing and saying is that all you got?
Seeing the Monolith 215 vs these would be interesting .
Nice graphs and SPL! Definitely a different experience when you can feel the air getting dense but can't hear anything... It's a fun club to be a part of! Now I wanna see those hit 120+ dB! Make it happen!! 😉
I must admit I have bass envy. That is insanely impressive
This is incredibly awesome ❤️ and it is the long waited video... Love JTR...
for anything over 120db you need a Termlab mic. its what they use for SPL competitions. it will be way more accurate then that rta mic will be at high pressure levels. with two diy marty 18s i did just over 140db at my listening position at 18 hertz. I really think you should get into their ported version of this sub, it can be eq'd much better response than the sealed can. Also doing sweeps at -30db will cause you to turn your receiver way past reference level, which inturn can clip the output before even reaching the amplifiers.
Great video! Glad to see you enjoying your RS2's!
Thanks Vinny. Looking forward to hearing the 210RM LCR. I have a feeling it will cause me to want to work towards a full JTR setup.
Wow, those subs are sick! Make my 12's a lil sad! 😭
Wohoo for JTR!! Awesome Micheal! I use the 212 HTs for LCR and a pair of Captivator 1400s for sub-bass. JBL PRO CInema surrounds for tops.
I can’t wait to review the 210RM LCR
Youthman I’m really excited for you to review those too. The perfect match for the RS2.
I think it would be a killer front soundstage.
Youthman 😎👌
Very curious if you've tried this with the miniDSP 2X4HD. A lot of time was spent getting the 2X4HD configured just right.... How does that compare to how well DIRAC's bass management add-on performed?
DIRAC Bass Management vs. 2X4HD... What's better?
I think you are getting things confused. You can use dirac on a 2x4hd just need to buy the software update. MiniDSP 2x4 you can auto calculate a curve that can be imported into a minidsp from REW. Dirac is definitely better because its much easier for a regular user. Both can achieve the exact same thing DIRAC just does it easier. There is also more filters in DIRAC.
@@sparco317 No sir,.... Not confused at all. I own a 2X4HD and I'm quite familiar with it's capabilities
To clarify, I'm curious of which did a better job between the result of the 4+ hours he and his friend spent manually measuring/tweaking parameters, in the 2X4HD OR the result of what DIRAC did during auto calibration, via the Bass Control add-on (before incorporating the 2X4HD back into it, if he did). I hope this make my insert more clear.
@@pttsjsph0 Using REW to auto generate eq filters does not take 4+ hours. If it does it better be flatter than a pancake. Dirac has more filters in general, and is why it is more expensive. I would place my bets that dirac does a way better job than anyone could manually.
@@sparco317 LOL Erick.... You need to catch up on Youthman's prior miniDSP video. He's the one who spent 4+ hours (with his friend's help) tweaking the parameters, and Youthman was very happy with the end result.
You're totally misunderstanding my question, for Youthman.
Here's the miniDSP vid that I mentioned
th-cam.com/video/_ZxbM_s4vh0/w-d-xo.html
Looking good Michael! Glad you joined the big sub crew.
I like the big club
You have 8000 watts RMS so it's amazing to me you still have that much headroom
When you need ear plug to enjoy your HT maybe its time to stop lol
It's about the sound quality, not the DBs anyways. My HT is overkill, but I just don't play it loud enough to make my ears ring(atleast not often).
@@StevenStGelais I was just teasing I have brutal sound also and never play it to its full potential or my ears will bleed.
Don't know if it's worth going for 24" subs, like the FUNK AUDIO LFE ULTRA 24. It's rated at 10,000W PEAK. But, it's 9k. 2 of them = 18k and that's rich territory. But is ask myself, how does audi's law of diminishing return play out in the case of FUNK ?
I know my JTR Captivator RS2’s are MORE than I need in my setup. Ridiculous output and flat down to 8Hz.
@@MrMaxi3140 ahahha you watched my friend Barrett
Well... now I can see why command such an asking price. Really impressive stuff Mike, hope you had a great holiday weekend.
Thanks Matt. I always thought the PB16’s were great but JTR takes the subwoofer experience to a whole new level
I Love BASS
Same
Youthman, can you tell me why you ultimately decided to go with RS2's over the Cap 4000's? I'm curious because I'm in the market myself. Thank you!
There were several reasons.
1) I do not have enough depth.
2) My room is only 13’ x 19’ with 10’ ceilings. I don’t need more output than (4) 18’s
3) Ported subs behind would move the screen even more than sealed
4) Aesthetically the RS2’s are the same exact height as my 212HTR’s.
If you have the space for the 4000’s, they are beast. But everyone that has experienced My Home Theater thinks I have tactile transducers. The RS2’s provide massive tactile response in my room and I have a concrete floor.
just a thought: is the subwoofer plate amp at max volume? could give you that increased volume you are looking for.
and mic volume could be lowered so that you could continue testing at high spl. minus 20db and do the calculations to figure in the charts the new decibels you get.
Don't know if this is the correct way to do this.
Curious as to the permance improvement over the psa 3612's, as they range from 500 to 1000 dollars less than the jtr (which is no doubt awesome) and are ported
In the recent days (HT tours) you experienced near field subs just behind the sitting position. In terms of *tactile feel* Which is gives better tactile feel ? 1. keeping the subs around 10 ft away and SPL measuing around 110 dB at sitting position. Vs 2. Near field sub ??
I have not performed that type of direct comparison. I can tell you nearfield is pretty incredible.
@@Youthman that is eaxctly my experience too !!! I built some diy 18" subs. Near field really rocks !! But when we have two or three rows of seats in home theater, accomodating near field sub for all seats is nearly impossible 😂
You can trim up the voltage on the output of the HTP-1 for a stronger signal/more level. If it is at 1.6V now, try changing it gradually upwards.
You’re measuring with a -30dBFS signal. Send it a hotter signal if you don’t want to crank the main volume as much. Would be interesting to see the distortion tab in REW as well ;)
Next time it would be cool to see to 200Hz to see how Dirac handled the crossover region. Leave smoothing off :)
Thanks. My friend just gave me some insight about the -30dB in REW. That explains why I had to increase the volume so much in the HTP-1
Boom! Boom! - Yeah! - Thanks for the great review!!
Hey YM, impressive, most impressive I can’t wait to finish my theater room and get into REW so keep learning so whereas I can learn from you I really want to master it at some point that’s my goal anyways enjoy the videos have a great holiday🇺🇸🙏🏼👍
What would be better, 2 JTR 18’s in a single cabinet or 2 monolith m-215’s? It’s about the same price. My room is 12’W x 24’L x 8’H
I would go JTR all day
I have 3 15" monolith thx subs ,one single and the m215 and I no how loud these are. They go dw to 10hz in my room . I couldn't imagine these things ,wow
Got my dual TV36Ipal last week, JTR 4000ULF is expected next week. Can't wait to get these dialed.
The TV36Ipals by itself rock, can't imagine what 4000ULF will add. The 4000ULF is planned to be used nearfield.
Sounds like an insane setup 😆
Did you get the jtr 4000?
@Youthman bro i just got my JTR RS2 shipped 2 weeks ago. The Output , TR , Wind and force is Solid! Effortless endgame sub indeed! Thanks for u video and unboxing video!😊 Curious May i know whats your gain Level and LF adjust in u room behind u AT screen? Cheers thanks agian.
im glad you saw the light and didnt stick with SVS JTR is solid subs, 2nd to that would be custom 18s
Which JTR’s do you have?
@@Youthman I currently own custom dual 18s from FI audio . but I wanna run some REW measurements to see where they stack against JTR
FI makes great subs. My friend has (4) 18’s in an Infinite Baffle setup. They reach single digits as well in his room.
@@Youthman very nice. My setup is considered on a budget I only spend $1200 but I might be upgrading my amplifier to gain more Headroom
@@Youthman the JTR sub is made by FI if im not mistaken.
I always bump 25 Hz by another 3-6 dB over 35 Hz, which are again 3-6 dB higher than 45 Hz and so on. I found that very low, including sub 20, need more output in reality to be perceived as loud as -10/-12 dB on lets say 45 Hz. My frequency reponse basically goes from like 110 dB at 15 Hz to 105 dB at 25 Hz to 100 dB at 35 Hz down to around 80ish at mid and 70 at highs. To me sounds like it's flat, but apparently is not.
Hi Ajitman.. hope you are doing well.. at this point of time I need your advise . I have bought Zappiti pro 4k HDR for my home theatre .. I wish to know the following :
1. Name of Hollywood movies 4K download authentic sites where I can get the movies in my SATA HDD
2. How to rip my existing collections of 4K n Blu-ray movies to my SATA HDD
Looking forward your prompt valuable advise ..
Regards’
I love JTR!!!! I recently received my captivator 4000 ULF and I absolutely love it in my theater. Jeff took care of me and walked me through the entire way, but I think it would be beneficial for me to get this software to dial it in even more. Would it be possible for me you to help me get it all tuned up?
Thanks!
Congratulations Shane. Unfortunately I do not have the ability to offer one-on-one calibration but there are many guys in audio forums and Facebook groups that you could hire to do that.
Hello, this performance are maked with 1 one single jtr rs2 subwoofer or with 2 two jtr rs2 subwoofers??? Thanks
Have you thought of comparing the JTR with the REL's
Have you ever tried Pro Audio subs in a home theater? QSC KS118 single 18 inch 3,600 watts, 136dB, $2,000. I know they only go down to 35Hz but a pair of these in the home will shake the foundation!
Yes, pro audio subs are meant for output, but for home theater you really want something that can at least go down to 20 Hz
wow, nice video, these subs are scary. Thats a lot of power.
Hi Youthman, you did a size comparison of the JTR Captivator 2400XS, but I do not think you did a review of it. Would you by chance still remember what you thought of it. I am having a hard time on what subwoofer to get for a 20ft (W) x 14ft (D) x10ft (H) room. Also can the RS2 be placed horizontally? Does it make a difference between vertical or horizontal? Thanks!!!
The 2400XS was never brought to market. Yes the RS2 can be placed horizontal. There also is a Sofa Table version as well.
Sorry I thought you mentioned 2400XS in this video th-cam.com/video/VCSxoel7tb8/w-d-xo.html ... was wondering how it performed. I was thinking if this is enough rather than 4000ULF or RTS like yours
I really enjoy your channel! Keep em good videos coming!
Thank you Gabriel
That is just ridiculous! Awesome subs!
I'm really impressed with what JTR has to offer. Do you have a preference of sealed or ported in your theater room?
In my room, sealed is a better fit since I’m using it directly behind my screen and the 4000ULF is too deep to fit anyways. If you need more output, the 4000ULF will get the job done
@@Youthman I also went sealed (dual 18" Rythmiks) due to size (and money) constraints. I just watched Bumblebee with my family last night (on Amazon Prime) and I was very impressed with the bass and surround effects, especially during the first 5 minutes of the movie. I recommend checking it out if you haven't done so already. Also, completely unrelated, I just bought some Youthman merch and my wife loved what I picked out! I got the Home Theater Enthusiast t-shirt in black.
Awesome! I haven’t seen Bumblebee yet but am always looking for good demo content.
Thanks for purchasing my merch. You and your wife have good taste 😂. In all seriousness, I certainly appreciate the support
This is much more impressive than I expected !
Hi Michael, I am curous about your selection. The Captivator 4000ULF is ported, as well as the Captivator 4000ULF-TL, and both of these subs also have dual 18' drivers with 4,000 watts. Was your decision made because sealed speakers are said to have a better frequence reponse, or was it anothe motivation for you to go with the sealed unit?
The main reason was the 4000ULF is too deep to fit behind my AT screen and ported subs blow a ton of air against the screen. If I had a larger room or either had tons of space behind the screen, I would have likely gone with the 4000ULF
But I have no regrets with the RS2’s. These are beast!
@@Youthman I'm pretty sure they are! :) And I think, but not certain that sealed subs are more accurate.
I did wish after you had your final measurement you tightened your graph db to 30 maybe 40db limit instead of 70-130db= 70db limit.
Was there any other smoothening applied within REW settings?
No smoothing applied. Just Dirac Live with Bass Control.
Hi youhtman how are..🙂
Have to ask if you remember Howe the PSA S3611 played If it was far after the JTR RS2..? Or do you feel that you could have gone with 2 psa S3611 as well and have been pleaced Whit that like you are now with your 2 JTR RS2..?
Or could you say what the diffrens are and feels like betwin Them..,🙂.?
Best regards/Peter
Hi Peter, the PSA S3611 and JTR Captivator RS2 are definitely in the same league. Both well beyond my previous PB16’s in output and lower extension.
Either brand you would be satisfied with.
@@Youthman Hi again wich One do you think of you can remember have the best midbass and wich One have the best down lows TR..?
Looking betwin 2 JTR RS1 or 2 PSA S3012 but cant Realy deside..😣 whant the One whit best midbass..🙂
You could also increase the vol. of the generated signal in REW. In this video it is set to -30 db.
Youthman how do you feel about sealed boxes? I know you used to be a ported box guy until you went with JTR. So give me your honest feedback and thoughts please
Ported tend to have more tactile feel and generate more output.
With that said, going from a pair of PB16’s (dual 15’s) to a pair of JTR Captivator RS2’s (4 18’s), there is no comparison, especially below 20Hz.
I feel that I get the best of both worlds. I’m getting ridiculous output and tactile base response because of the four 18s, but also have a super clean, tight sound with no port noise (that I used to get at high excursion with the PB16’s)
Those are insane!! Very impressed. So if I were tuning my sub with this, would I run Audyssey with the gain set for the AVR to go to -5db, and then increase that setting by a few DB's repeatedly until I got to compression, and then pick the last level that did not show compression? I just feel like I can tune my VTF-15H MK2 better than where it is set now, just using Audyssey.
I would just start with your volume at -15 to -10dB in your AVR and run a sweep, then increase 3dB and repeat until the line no longer looks the same as the others. Usually compression will take place in the lower frequencies first
Here is a video that shows compression reached - th-cam.com/video/hESXuQ4K_Uc/w-d-xo.html
Yeah that was a good video! I'm just confused on crossing between volume level and AVR channel level. Maybe I'm thinking about it wrong. I still want a second sub though.
For compression testing, you are only increasing the master volume, not individual channel levels
@@Youthman thank you!
Nice vid..Congrats on your speakers. I can see you joy with them.
Thanks Paul
Great video! Great test! Definitely impressive! This is with a total of four 18" drivers right? It would be interesting to see distortion measurements, I'm guessing it's pretty low. I'm not sure if REW is designed to do that but you can download and use ARTA for non commercial purposes for free. I'm also not sure about that microphone, not all microphones are suitable for distortion measurements. It may be fine, I just don't know its capabilities.
How is the low frequency uniformity around your listening area? It would be interesting to see a video comparing measurements from each individual seat.
Youthman Mike you found some incredible subwoofers the only question is what would be the price tag I think they're a bit too loud for me. I have a small room but I love your videos to give suggestions on all kinds of audio equipment thank you so very much God bless,
Hi Steve, I linked to them in the description - www.jtrspeakers.com/jtr-captivator-rs2
They are $3499 each.
you're seeing the bump at 10hz because thats where the subwoofer is tuned. all jtr subs are tuned to 10hz
You can somewhat tune it because its sealed, but its nothing like tuning the ported boxes to 10hz which they do, this will cause some extreme dips in the higher end bass above 30hz but with a ton of bass extension. I guess they are HT but I figure the ported subs tuned to 10hz will lack punch in the upper region. Any ported box tuned low suffers from that and no EQ can fix it because you run into cone excursion limits
Bandpass boxes ftw
I'm a little confused, trying to get into home audio...very familiar with car audio....I'm an electrician by original trade. With the RS2 Captivators being self amplified, how are you powering an 4000W internally powered sub from your subwoofer to your electrical breaker? This is common question I also have regarding most higher powered subs like the Monolith 16" THX and the SVS PB16.
That’s a great question. I answered it in this video th-cam.com/video/4Emq8cTYQ3Q/w-d-xo.html
Hey Youthman. I had asked you about the PSA 3612 and SVE ultra and you said the PSA would have better SPL. What about SQL? I've been talking to SVS about the Ultras and of course they want me to buy them and told me I need 3 to get the same output as the PSA but that the tightness PSA and JTR can't equal becuase of the coil size that SVS has controlling the driver.
Thoughts?
Hi Jim. I owned the PB16’s for a few years and although they were great subs, they simply are not on the level of JTR in either output or sound quality. I can assure you my activator RS2’s are incredibly tight and have ridiculous output and low end extension. The PB16’s have better looks and the SVS App. But as far as performance, in my experience, the PB16 is no match for the RS2’s.
@@Youthman Hey thanks for the reply. One more quick one please. What about thenPSA 3612, you said that the 3611 had more SLP but how about SQL. In your opinion does the 3611/3612 have better SQL than the SVS Ultras as well? Thank you
@@jimthestargazer Based on things I have read, yes the PSA dual-opposed models have better sound quality than the SVS.
The reason your running out of room is because when you did your Dirac calibration the subs were too loud, so those are set way too negative, the quietest speakers are now the new zero. So your subs are being electronically held back.
If you redo a calibration with the subs turned down so the numbers are all closer to 0 or your subs are the new 0, you'll find the results you're looking for then bump the dial back to this position. For the loudness you want
Thanks Greg. My subs were at the levels we used when we dialed in with Audyssey and miniDSP.
I ordered two Monolith 15's, and now I'm wondering if I should have gone with JTRs... Darn you Youthman!
Sorry. Monolith are nice but JTR is next level.
Michael most people are set at -12.00 dbfs...I've never seen -30dbfs before ?
But you can't hear 8hz!. However I would love a pair but I will stick to my SVS since that's what I can afford. I ain't mad at you though and God bless.
I mentioned that in the video. It’s not what you hear, it’s what you experience. You can hear bass from ANY subwoofer. Experiencing subsonic frequencies is a different story.
@Youthman: Does ULF prowess like from the RS2's come at a cost in the midbass area compared to subs that are LF-limited to about 20Hz?
If you look at the frequency response I posted, there is plenty of SPL in the mid bass frequencies. No lacking there
@@Youthman Oh, definitely - measurements of the RS2's indicate no lacking in the midbass, but going by one's ears exclusively I find ULF-tuned subs to typically sound rather different compared to subs tuned higher - the operative word here being 'different.' In any case: it must quite an experience being treated to sub 10Hz linear performance with quad 18" drivers..!
It truly has been a new experience for me. And I love it
btw how far was the mic from the subs? and was it center of the subs as well?
Youth man- thanks for what you do.
Sadly my rsw15 is on its last leg. I’ve read up on the JTR. I love them. Why you pick this to test? I run klipsch klf20’s for sides, and rc7 center, amd rs7 for rears. On a Denon receiver.
Any light on this would be great.
Hi Mike sorry to hear you’re RSW 15 is struggling. I had 1 of my 4 amps fail so I knew with them being 15 years old, it was only a matter of time.
I reviewed dual PB16’s and sold my RSW15’s and bought the PB16’s.
A lot of people in my comments were saying if I liked SVS, I really need to check out GTR. At that time I had never heard of them but reached out to Jeff to see if he would be interested and having me review some of his subwoofers. After about a year he finally was able to send me a pair and it was absolutely game changer. No comparison.
Super clean, no port chuffing, ridiculous output and my RS2’s are flat down to 8Hz.
@@Youthman thanks that is the subwoofer I been looking at from JTR myself. I seen they have a couple of subs that claims lower htz. But, feel the one in this video is perfect for me.
You say 2 rsw15 to one of JTR is good comparison? Except better range
A single JTR Captivator RS2 will easily outperform (4) Klipsch RSW15’s both in output and lower frequency extension.
The RSW15’s drop like a rock at 20Hz. My RS2’s are tuned to 10Hz and in my room I am flat down to 8Hz.
@@Youthman how about fidelity? I watched you run the svs, monolith, I don’t want to lose sight of fidelity, but when wanting to throw down its there! Deep rich, bass. Klipsch did pretty good at blending.
Hi Youthman, how does this translate into the movie watching experience? given most content is MUCH higher than 20++ hz
The subwoofers have completely changed my movie watching experience. Incredibly clean base, especially after I added a mini DSP 2 x 4 HD. I think you would be surprised to know just how much content is below 20 Hz
You probably need to set the max output to a higher level on the calibration page. It should hit near 0dB at highest level you'll ever want to output.
YouthMan l’ve got a Question for you! I need to upgrade my subwoofer 🔊 from klipsch R 110sw to Svs PB3000 model,but I have a concern ? I’ve heard that svs subwoofers making humming noise even @ standby, because my klipsch is dead quite even at standby and also when I’m playing @ high volume...... and I can’t tolerate even a low level hum..! What’s your opinion? Thanks.
My opinion is you need to contact SVS support. If you are hearing a hum, they might be able to help either by sending a replacement unit (if it's defective) or offer some advice regarding a ground loop issue you might have in your electrical that is causing it. Some guys have used a "cheater plug" to remove a hum from their system or something like this - amzn.to/2P5uOD9
Ha Youthman those jtr subwoofer are beast. You heard the jl gotham f212 subwoofer.
how did you separate each channel like L, R and then only subs to be measured. I get both L/R and subs running for measurements? Your video from 4:00 is what i am referring to. Thanks!
By default, REW uses JAVA. You need to install ASIO if you want to be able to run tests on individual speakers.
@@Youthman i use a mac could you please send me a link for the download thanks
www.asio4all.org
@@Youthman thank you highly appreciate it.
Looks to me that the m-215 is pretty close to the JTR and is a really great price. Is that correct?
What was the reason for Rs2 as opposed to the ported version?
Space. I can't fit a 4000ULF behind my screen. Not deep enough. Plus ported subs blow my screen and with sealed subs, you don't have to worry about port chuffing. With (4) 18's, I don't need any more bass. These have a ridiculous amount of output and are flat in my room down to 5Hz.
@@Youthman Awesome, thx for the reply and great vids as usual.
How does this compare to the Cap 4000 ULF?
Cap 4000ULF is a much larger cabinet which will provide more overall output but similar bass extension. With dual RS2’s, I have ZERO need for more output.
Would it be better to put one in the front and one in the rear I'm just thinking all that bass is in front of you why not have some behind you?
I look at a room typically with four corners 1 sub in each Corner that's just from what I do
I only have one rear corner available. Measurements look pretty good with both up front. Don’t feel a need to change it
Hello Michael, would it be possible for us to see a comparison chart with any REL flagship subwoofer and your incredible captivator? Being bit curious in here and that is the reason I asked.
Hi Jesson, I would have no problem doing that but I do not believe our REL will be sending me any to review as long as I have my Klipsch LaScalas.
Last year they were going to send me one of their subwoofers to review, but when John Hunter their lead engineer found that I had La Scala’s, he was concerned that they would not blend well with them due to the high sensitivity of my LaScalas
@@Youthman Okay Michael, Thats fine. Will wait to see if they are sending a pair for review. Otherwise will leave this case. However I am not seeing anything better than your RS2 setup. Thats amazing. 115dB at 8hz is super amazing.
Anyway thanks for the reply Mich. Take care.
Yeah REL doesn’t make a sub that is designed to do that.
I notice that Dirac is activated? Could this have influenced sub output?
Dirac pulled the peaks down rather than boosting the frequency response up
Hi.. am Vijay from India.. am using artcoustic spitfire control 3subs -2 nos which is baffled LCR 8x4 ultimate bass delivery n Dynamics..
Hey, I had a question. Does the HTP-1 support upgradable HDMI ports like the Emotiva RMC-1 ? Or is it just snake oil on the RMC-1 and there's no way I can future proof my HDMI connection for a good number of years.
Hobie from Monoprice said they plan to offer a chance to upgrade the HDMI board once they are available. I am not sure if it will be user upgradeable or if you will need to send your unit in. Monoprice has been listening to user feedback and correcting bugs much faster than Emotiva. I own the HTP-1 and am very happy with its performance, sound quality and solid HDMI performance.
Nothing better than Ultra Low Frequencies in the Home Theater!!!!
I agree
Man what to buy subwoofers or upcoming Rtx3080 .. i am confused and i need both
For the most part, subwoofers don’t change and can remain in your system for a very long time. AVR tech changes rapidly so the longer you wait, the cheaper it becomes and along comes the next latest /greatest tech.
This or the captivator 4000ulf for Movies?
I love my RS2’s. The 4000ULF is a beast as well. If you have the space, go for the 4000ULF
How would the lfe 24 ultra compare to these?
Question, I know you work with minidsp for your subs and now are playing with Dirac. Is the paid version (even though more expensive) of dirac for sub management better than the minidsp?
I’m certainly no expert on miniDSP or Dirac but have a friend who is look at the Bass Control and he said as soon as Emotiva adds Bass Control for his RMC-1, he will no longer need his miniDSP-1. He said Bass Control does everything his miniDSP does and more.
@@Youthman @Youthman yeah after seeing the price points in your video it had me thinking if the investment would be worth it or just go minidsp. The integrated option just seems appealing and so far with what you have shown dirac is very meticulous when it comes to calibrations. I hope that's the case and can't wait for the final comparison cause it's either 7705 or HTP-1 for me.
You did hit compression. You were down about 3db at 10hz. It wasn't a lot, but it is there. Overlay your bottom fr with the top one.
Definitely had not reached compression yet.
i think UMIK-1 only calibrated to 20hz, if you want to measure below 20hz, i think you need to upgrade to the higher class calibrated mic, like Earthworks M23 which is calibrated from 3hz up to 23khz, or you can re-calibrated the UMIK-1
I don’t do enough measurements to justify spending $500 on a microphone
@@Youthman yeah, its meant for ppl that do a daily job building speaker or just a hobbyist that really get into the speaker building or usually for studio works that need a really a really good calibrated mic, but just for regular ppl, i think its fine using UMIK-1. I am using behringer ECM8000 which is not even calibrated from factory, i'm planning to switch to EMM-6, anyways that sub can absolutely destroy ur home if you go all out with the volume at the REW
That is impressive
you have gotta try the ported versions..i am curious to see the difference in their single digit extension capabilities
I have heard them in other peoples hime theaters. Both should have similar low frequency extension
@@Youthman perhaps the ported version just has that extra bump in output than the sealed..and sealed is always an option if needed a smaller box overall i guess...i really care about extension...i hope i am not loosing any by choosing the ported over its sealed..altho...would the mariana 24sc actually go lower because of its 24 inch cone area and sealed ?? but its output...may not be enough ?? i dunno for sure....i know i will get loads of headroom with the JTR ported ..and from your video..even the sealed can give you some headroom lol
Email Tony at sales@jtrspeakers.com. He can provide more details on the differences between the RS2 and 4000ULF. Both are complete beasts
@@Youthman ok...its..a little more complicated than i would say " similar " response....so the sealed as usual not as loud as ported ..but...can go down to 5hz usable then sharp roll off....the ported can go down to 7hz usable then roll off but of course louder on frequencies below 20hz ..but from what i have seen here on your video...i should definitely go for the RS2 because of maximum extension requirements i want and also my room is much smaller than yours..so...room gain max ?? 12x12x7 WxDxH ..and of course some DSP to get MUCH flatter response along with some perhaps if i am lucky...EXTRA bass extension hehehehee
But is 5Hz vs 7Hz that much difference?
sure it's loud but how about the distortion level ? is this subwoofer responsive enough ?
I do not have the tools to measure distortion levels but this is the best sounding sub I have experienced in my home theater. Not only in output but also it sound quality as well. If you ever get an opportunity to experience JTR, it’s an incredible experience.
@@Youthman I wonder how these genuinely compare to the dual opposed sealed 18" PSA models?
That’s awesome! You could have ran the bass a little hotter through the AVR. I bet you would have seen another 8-10 dB around 10hz.
Not sure. Either way, I’m getting PLENTY lol
Why -30 instead of -12 which I believe is the default?
I'd like you to get a Funk Audio LFE Ultra and compare that !
You have access to Demo Discs. Play "Transient" off the DTS Vol 23.
The funny thing about bass/SPL is that almost nothing else makes the same sounds, so if you do suffer hearing loss you won't know; especially factoring in that audible hearing is said to not go down much below 60 Htz...but you will still feel it anyways. For permanent hearing loss usually requires volumes approaching 160 decibels continuous for up to 15 mins at a consistent frequency, and the loss would be mostly in that specific frequency too.
Have any of you Bass Heads heard of the infamous and mythical "Brown Note" @ 6Htz at over 173 decibels...?
Unfortunately if you cannot hear frequencies below 60 Hz, you have significant hearing loss. Most people can hear down to around 20 Hz. I typically watch movies at -15dB. Short demos are around -10dB.
@@Youthman I see the standards for audible hearing have been changed to go down to 20 Htz now...I have almost no hearing loss and I am grateful for that. Still it would be very hard to tell that you have have had any audible hearing loss at such low levels, you would still feel the spl pressure (like if you put in foam ear plugs and then over ear protection on too, you would still hear/feel the bass same way pretty much). It might be harder to hear a sperm whale, at a safe distance or a pipe organ a mile away. It's the mids and the tweeters that can do the real damage, and you will notice it all the time, but still it needs to be very loud and on for a long time at a sustained frequency for permanent hearing loss. Note that percentage difference for 60-20,000Htz to 20-20,000Htz is like 0.002% , if you want to split hair cells in the Cochlear...? What I am saying is with my experience you are safe from permanent damage hearing loss in your own theater. Besides your ears will let you know, via discomfort before damage is permanent in that situation. 15 years of working in door arena concerts, 30 years of car audio, and many years working in loud plants too, with yearly hearing testing done... Can't wait to see what you do next to your awesome home theater.
awesome subwoofers great video..
I can’t decide between the rs2 or the 4000ulf.. not sure if I want sealed or ported. 95% will be movies
I’m 90% movies and I love my RS2’s. If you have the space and can go with the 4000 ULF, they will provide even more output. But I’m completely happy with my (2) RS2’s in my 13’ x 19’ with 10’ ceiling room.
JTR pricing increases on January 1. We would love to earn your business - www.obsessedhometheater.com.
@@YouthmanI will definitely use your link. I have followed you for a while now and you have helped me a lot with my early journey into Home Theater.
Will the RS2’s still hit the lows very good? I would love to save the space, if I could. I just don’t want to buy the RS2’s wishing I had more, based on your videos it doesn’t seem like I will.
Yes, I have measured my RS twos down to 5 Hz in my room with significant output
How big is your room? Mine is 13 foot wide by 19 foot deep with 10 foot ceilings.
And I’m surely grateful for your support. Anthony means the world to me.
Ok i couldn't find any comments about this so, when you are doing a measurement you can play at a different level. You are using -30db signal.
I normally don't place it at 0db but -3db just to keep the single wave not clipping. Then i start at -20db on the AVR/processor and go down from that.
If you are at +3db on MV on the AVR, and play a -3db signal, you should get an avg of 115db of bass.
I can do 115db at 10hz with 2x Dayton ultimax 18s, but i'm pushing them a bit, i don't reach xmax but man, they are moving uncomfortably too much for me. My speakers can't do reference, and i don' t want to do it :D.
I'm normally listening at -8db.
bass hertz so good
I would love to know if there is a visual representation type of device to display the physical effect of that chest thumping. Similar to the long hair girls who sit in the large subwoofer cars and their hair flies in an out the window. Maybe an under inflated balloon on a glass bottle for example. I have no idea what would work though.
Only thing I can think of is a glass of water in my cup holder
whoa🤯