I must say that I did the left side of my 2008 Dodge Charger. I struggled with the springs for the longest, but I FINALLY got everything in line to complete it. Looking forward to doing the right side soon. Thank You! 💯
+Anwar High Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
The brake spring next to the spreader was installed backwards. The long end supposed to be close to the spreader so it don't hit the hub. It didn't take me long to figure that out using your instruction to do that wrong.
I am in the UK, I have a 2008 300 crd. I have replaced all the rear suspension arms. First problem is that the brake caliper carrier bolts strip the threads because they poke to far through and rust. The next problem is that the female torx bolts corrode and will not remove. I removed the whole hub to gain easy access to the bolts and removed two, the others did not strip they simply snapped both the heads off. I tried drilling them out and even with milling machine bits had no luck and ended up destroying the carrier. So I bought a second hand carrier complete with hub, sandblasted, painted and rebuilt with new shoes to find that it had stripped caliper mountings. I am amazed that you have not had similar problems.
Great video guide, just one question the actuating mechanism when you initially get the rotor off is what I believeto be the wrong way up, during the rebuild the mechanisn is the correct way with the UP stamped into the part at the top, please confirm that the UP should be at the top. TIA.
The video is great except you didn't finish the job. Your customer has just left with non functioning e brakes. At some point you need to adjust the e break adjustor or they won't engage.
9:04 during removal, spreader is one way. 13:01 after installation, spreader is upside down (or right side up and earlier was incorrect). Seems like that would be kind of important. Isn't that what is actuated when the ebrake is pulled?
With that particular design, the spreader works either way, so there is no upside down way to install it. The only reason I ran the hook in from the top is to let gravity help instead of hamper. As it was, I still could have used another hand that I could control and it took forever. I, however, didn’t remove the bearing hub. It’s why I only did one side until the weather improved. I hate the cold.
Just did my e-brake, all new drum shoes, pads, disc.... fully adjusted, will not hold the car at all. Frustrating. No luck. Thoughts? No matter how tight I have the adjusters, the pedal almost goes to the floor.... has resistance, but is not effective.
Overall very helpful. After watching this step-bystep video I decided I could handle this job. I didn't and saved hundreds in labor. I might have bought the parts at 1AA auto but they did not have Mopar parts available. Sure they're more expensive but considering the labor and how vital wheel hubs are, I was willing to pay more.
It's the same for 300, Charger, Magnum. I've replaced the hub on my magnum and I've had my wife's charger apart. The thing that is missing from the video is how to properly adjust the adjustment wheel. There is a excerpt from the service manual on one of the forums that explains how to adjust it until the wheel locks up and then back it off 6 clicks.
@11:16 Unclear to me how the spreader hook connects to the cable, what is the orientation of the hook (does it go up, down...and it hook on inside/outside of spreader), not obvious to me - as my ebrake came apart while knocking rotor off, now cannot figure out how to get spreader back on properly
This is why I watched this video. I had a parking brake that came apart and destroyed everything. I took apart the other side to look at the spreader and it was like this one when removed, hook side down. Alldata isn't clear about it either because it has diagrams both ways
+Mikael Nevalainen Thank you for checking us out. The vehicle used was a 300C, but the procedure for this should be identical between the two models. 1aauto.com
Step by step is ok but you don't do professional job you don't clean rusted details you install springs wrong and you don't care about rims get clean from oxidation in center and many other ...
@@charlesm7589? That isn't an arguement. Doing that to every car will make them last longer. Show car doesn't matter. It can be a rust bucket. Still should do it.
holy sh*t, if I don't use parking/emergency brakes do I still need to change them. this is way too much work. and I have a good 2012 300c and I don't want to mess any of the electronics
First I enjoyed the video...it gave general knowledge on how it comes apart. I don't usually leave comments. You left out the torque specifications for the hub bolts judging by the bolt size and thread pitch I'm guessing at 75 to 85 ft.lbs. of torque also the park brake shoes needed to be adjusted so the auto adjusting lever would work properly. The corrosion on the inside of the rim has to be cleaned off before the wheel is installed. A little about me I'm an ASE certified technician in both automotive and trucks have been in the industry for 28 years... I would recommend a legal disclaimer before or after video to protect your company from possible legal action. Once again thank you for the video AJ
They're for emergency. Your not suppose to use them regularly. And yes you do need to replace them. Otherwise your csr is just a desth trap. Doesnt matter how nice everything else is. A non working emergency brake is a no go.
2 years old, but you can get a kit for probably like 15 20 dollars a full like 11 12 piece set. From like idk where you live, Canadian tire, harbor freight probbaly orileys ect.
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I really appreciate you use real world cars in your videos and not all clean nice ones
One side took me a few hours then the other side was complete in under 20 minutes or so. Learning curve.
I must say that I did the left side of my 2008 Dodge Charger. I struggled with the springs for the longest, but I FINALLY got everything in line to complete it. Looking forward to doing the right side soon. Thank You! 💯
+Anwar High Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
The brake spring next to the spreader was installed backwards. The long end supposed to be close to the spreader so it don't hit the hub. It didn't take me long to figure that out using your instruction to do that wrong.
yes
I am in the UK, I have a 2008 300 crd. I have replaced all the rear suspension arms. First problem is that the brake caliper carrier bolts strip the threads because they poke to far through and rust. The next problem is that the female torx bolts corrode and will not remove. I removed the whole hub to gain easy access to the bolts and removed two, the others did not strip they simply snapped both the heads off. I tried drilling them out and even with milling machine bits had no luck and ended up destroying the carrier. So I bought a second hand carrier complete with hub, sandblasted, painted and rebuilt with new shoes to find that it had stripped caliper mountings. I am amazed that you have not had similar problems.
My personal mechanic did this job for me. He used a blow torch. To get the bolts off. And then use file in the grooves on the bolt.
Great video guide, just one question the actuating mechanism when you initially get the rotor off is what I believeto be the wrong way up, during the rebuild the mechanisn is the correct way with the UP stamped into the part at the top, please confirm that the UP should be at the top. TIA.
The video is great except you didn't finish the job. Your customer has just left with non functioning e brakes.
At some point you need to adjust the e break adjustor or they won't engage.
When you reverse, it auto adjusts
Has this car lived at the beach? lol thank you for video. I just came to learn how to adjust but watched this anyways
That is what I was looking for also.
9:04 during removal, spreader is one way. 13:01 after installation, spreader is upside down (or right side up and earlier was incorrect). Seems like that would be kind of important. Isn't that what is actuated when the ebrake is pulled?
With that particular design, the spreader works either way, so there is no upside down way to install it. The only reason I ran the hook in from the top is to let gravity help instead of hamper. As it was, I still could have used another hand that I could control and it took forever. I, however, didn’t remove the bearing hub. It’s why I only did one side until the weather improved. I hate the cold.
Is the spreader another name for brake lever, or brake strut?
Copper anti seize on hub. Pin lube?
Just changed mine, it wasn’t so bad
Exelente job
Just did my e-brake, all new drum shoes, pads, disc.... fully adjusted, will not hold the car at all. Frustrating. No luck. Thoughts? No matter how tight I have the adjusters, the pedal almost goes to the floor.... has resistance, but is not effective.
Overall very helpful. After watching this step-bystep video I decided I could handle this job. I didn't and saved hundreds in labor. I might have bought the parts at 1AA auto but they did not have Mopar parts available. Sure they're more expensive but considering the labor and how vital wheel hubs are, I was willing to pay more.
Thank u very much that was very helpful
+tasker02 Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
The torx screw is in size e14, not e12. Also the screw for the shock absorber is mounted the wrong way
Can any one tell me how to get the main parking brake cable for the 300c? 2005?
That backing plate is badly rusted. It should be replaced also.
Please note when he removed the the spreader the cable pin was at the bottom which is right doesn't anyone know people let me know.
Thanks.
Can u do this for a dodge magnum 08 as well?
+PUA Guy We're always cycling through common cars. We'll add this repair to our list! 1AAuto.com
It's the same for 300, Charger, Magnum.
I've replaced the hub on my magnum and I've had my wife's charger apart.
The thing that is missing from the video is how to properly adjust the adjustment wheel. There is a excerpt from the service manual on one of the forums that explains how to adjust it until the wheel locks up and then back it off 6 clicks.
Is the ebrake self adjusting?
No, You need to put the rotors on, then adjust them through a slot in the backing plate.
Great video. Thanks.
I was wandering if the the spreader had an up or down position?
It's notch upwards on challengers. In this video the 300 is also apparently the same. Safe to assume the charger is too.
Really wish he would show how to replace the cv boot on the car I need to do that
+Deshawn R We're always cycling through common cars. We'll add this repair to our list! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
What about adjusting handbrake 😉
Did that stud tick one time and put a lugnut over the thread so I didnt ruin the threat but I crushed that lugnut like a dummy
On the next video how to repair a scuffed shop floor
Ha!! I saw that too and had a good laugh! Other than that, very good instruction video.
@11:16 Unclear to me how the spreader hook connects to the cable, what is the orientation of the hook (does it go up, down...and it hook on inside/outside of spreader), not obvious to me - as my ebrake came apart while knocking rotor off, now cannot figure out how to get spreader back on properly
This is why I watched this video. I had a parking brake that came apart and destroyed everything. I took apart the other side to look at the spreader and it was like this one when removed, hook side down. Alldata isn't clear about it either because it has diagrams both ways
Same guy from Power Nation🤔
Please do a 06 dodge charger rt Rear E brake video when u can thank you in advance
+Problem Child We will keep this request in mind for a future video! 1AAuto.com
It's literally the exact samething. No difference at all. Infact you'll be using the exact parts he bought. Theyre the same car. No difference
10:30 there is no adjust door
Why chrysler design everything replacing or dissamble as much hard then other brands , other cars 10 20 min max open handbrake assemble
How about the adjustment lol 🤦♀️🤷♀️
Didn't bother to stake the axle nut. 😲
IS it a Ch 300c or 300m?
+Mikael Nevalainen Thank you for checking us out. The vehicle used was a 300C, but the procedure for this should be identical between the two models. 1aauto.com
Step by step is ok but you don't do professional job you don't clean rusted details you install springs wrong and you don't care about rims get clean from oxidation in center and many other ...
Not a show car.
@@charlesm7589? That isn't an arguement. Doing that to every car will make them last longer. Show car doesn't matter. It can be a rust bucket. Still should do it.
holy sh*t, if I don't use parking/emergency brakes do I still need to change them. this is way too much work. and I have a good 2012 300c and I don't want to mess any of the electronics
so how do I know or how can I tell if I need to replace them
If they don't work when you step on the E-Brake you need to check, adjust or replace them.
First I enjoyed the video...it gave general knowledge on how it comes apart. I don't usually leave comments. You left out the torque specifications for the hub bolts judging by the bolt size and thread pitch I'm guessing at 75 to 85 ft.lbs. of torque also the park brake shoes needed to be adjusted so the auto adjusting lever would work properly. The corrosion on the inside of the rim has to be cleaned off before the wheel is installed. A little about me I'm an ASE certified technician in both automotive and trucks have been in the industry for 28 years... I would recommend a legal disclaimer before or after video to protect your company from possible legal action. Once again thank you for the video AJ
They're for emergency. Your not suppose to use them regularly. And yes you do need to replace them. Otherwise your csr is just a desth trap. Doesnt matter how nice everything else is. A non working emergency brake is a no go.
Alittle tricky? You wasn't holding your mouth right, bud.
the whole car is rusted, needs replacement, might as well. you dont want to go back and work twice
The driveshaft has inverted Torx too.... was abut to drop the rear end then I saw that and its like WELL FUCK
2 years old, but you can get a kit for probably like 15 20 dollars a full like 11 12 piece set. From like idk where you live, Canadian tire, harbor freight probbaly orileys ect.