This is one of the best climbing teachers on TH-cam, and I've basically seen them all. Very well rounded, and every tip if helpful across the board for every person or body type.
This is by far the best, most applicable advice I've seen from a climbing video. No more recycled garbage "do quiet feet, try this feet first exercise...", just real advice WHILE on the wall. Just recently broke into the V8 range, can't wait for your video on them :D
I love these grade analysis videos. Would love to see you revisit prior grades with different route settings in time. Talking through the beta and techniques required is helpful.
Your channel should have more views and subs. The way you deliver information is top notch. I climb V9 and even in the V5 video, I had ONE tip I now use every sesh. Thanks for you both.
the first tip made me realize that whenever a hold is long, we must consider all the positions and their advantages. It would be nice to see one video where you take a seemingly impossible boulder and improve 50 times the beta until it looks easy, just to prove the point that there are always ways to improve the beta. The problem with comp and training is that we either don't have time or don't have the energy budget to climb a hard boulder so many times. Of course some boulders are straight forward and based on pure strength so it wouldn't apply to them but others are very technical and there you can make wonders. At my level, it feels important to master the details because I can't rely on pure strength and because my instincts are not evolved enough to find the best beta easily, so many boulder are not attainable without a kind of beta break that better climbers don't bother looking for
I've been watching climbing videos for several years now and this is the first time i see this channel. It's absolutely amazing and full of useful and helpful tips and tricks. Great job, you guys, keep it up. You have a new subscriber. :)
love the precise specific advice for each boulder from a pro point of view, even if V7 what seems to be 7a+ in europe is something I can only dream of climbing for now. still a lot of tips I can take for easier climbs.
I never watch this kind of video because they're usually useless and annoying. This seems to be the exception. The analysis in this video is exactly what it claims to be: actionable. Excellent video, excellent teacher.
Great video! I love the way you teach and your humility is obvious. It was also funny to see you climbing at Le Crux with that Rose Bloc t-shirt. Thanks for the tips!
I love that this video is coming from a reading standpoint and not a reactive one (e.g. mistakes that all v7 climbers make). If you can spot it from the ground, why make the mistake in rhe first place? V refreshing vid
Great video! So many good tips! This is 100% why I hate underclings, because I blew out some discs deadlifting so I avoid that movement like the plague lol. Engaging the glutes, core and lats is definitely the way to go for good deadlift form!
this under cling boulder is a complex case to theorize because normally with under-clings it's better to stand tall as quick as possible and get the hips as close as possible to the wall but with no foot holds, we must smear, so we can't flex the legs completely, we can't stand tall or we loose the ideal foot position and slip, so it's a compromise type position with multiple "dimensions" to consider, extended arms, half flexed legs, straight lower back. Thanks for the demonstration, I feel that it will help me at some point !
I agree that low percentage move require multiple tries in a row, the only limit is how far the move is and what's our stamina/endurance, sometimes you must wait a bit more and depending on your climbing approach investing too much in one hard boulder is not always on the table. Personally I like to switch boulder easily. The case where waiting is really important is when the move is physical and require commitment, not waiting will only make us fail and lose confidence as well as stamina, but when it's more about technique, many tries is key, sometimes is really in the middle ground so knowing why you climb and the objective of the session helps to decide, also knowing and understanding why you fail is important, especially on the long run to grow consistently. For instance I'm afraid of a bad fall, so when ever the last moves require a lot of commitment, I hesitate a lot so I've been trying to put myself is this situation progressively but consistently, if possible not too high so I can learn how to fall and accept it. I still don't try last move if they are low percentage and the fall look bad but now I recognize when the fall is kind of controlled and allow myself some high jump per session.
I LOVE these videos! I'm nowhere near V7 level, although as I've commented before, I think my gym is very sandbagged as a lot of the 'easy' problems involve moves/features you've described at higher grades 😅. But I already like delving into the minutiae of technique, perhaps because of sub-optimal morphology (my genetics favoured legs over arms and torso) and lack of strength 🙃. I'm already a bit of a beta-breaker (love a tactical kneebar!). I also like having a go at moves on harder boulders even if there's no chance of me climbing the whole thing - just to experiment, explore and learn about what goes into the movement/position/grip type. This channel is great - you have a real knack for explaining and demonstrating. 👏
Yeah sounds like you’re gym grades pretty stiff! That’s awesome to hear! Lots of people are scared to try boulders that are a bit above their grade and miss out of learning opportunities so good for you 💪
Nice video :) And thanks for the hangboard protocol. When would you generally recommend one should do these in relationships to training session? (Before a climbing session as recruitment? Does it depend on the type of sesssion? On a rest day?)
I would probably recommend them for before the session so you’re at your freshest! Could also work on a rest day but just listen to your body and don’t hangboard if your fingers are tired!
Re. Smearing: From a physics point of view it is not about the apparent surface area (at least to first order of approximation, Amontons' Second Law)! The force applied perpendicular to the wall is higher when you put your feet higher, also the ratio of perpendicular vs tangential force is more optimal.
As for the Hangboarding: Do you recommend to do it on off days? Right before the climbing (after warm-up)? Or like in the morning and to go climbing in the afternoon? Or something completly different?
I'd like to know as well, if he's hanging boarding on off days, on days, before or after session? Great questions. Been climbing for 3 years, I feel I should start seriously hang boarding
Definitely not a one-size-fits-all answer to this but my personal preference is to do it on a climbing day. I like to rest for 1-2 hours after climbing, re warm up, then do my hangboard. But everyone is different so find what’s best for you! My only recommendation would be to make sure you don’t hangboard while your fingers are super tired
@@richardsonsclimbing thanks, yes for sure. I just like to know the different approaches climbers take and try somethings out. Never thought of cooling down after climbing and doing the hangboarding then. Lets see how my body responds to it
Question for the climbing conoisseurs here: If my flash grade is v8 and that my projecting and limit grade is also v8. Does that mean that Im just weak?
Funny thing, that last red + volumes v7 is now a v8 :). woopsies. The blocked crimp/slopers v7 and the last sequence of that paddle v8, insane how your beta is completely different from the other climbers 😭😭
I can climb like half of the v4-v6’s at my gym (my gym grades by ranges) but v6-v8 it’s like most of the starting positions I cannot even hold. Do you think this is probably more of a strength issue or a technique issue? Usually the beginning just feels so awkward I would never be able to hit the second hold and stick it…
Hmm potentially it is a strength issue. Maybe try to get closer to sending all of the grade range where you’re able to do half of them, then start working the harder ones!
So to summarize the hang: 5 sec half crimp then rest for 3 minutes then repeat that for 6 times ? Or do you mean 5 seconds on half crimp then rest shortly and repeat for 5-6 times then rest for 3 minutes and then repeat that whole sequence 1-2 times? Also do you do them post climbing or before? Thanks again for your help with all this!! I’m still stuck at trying to be consistent v6 but I’m trying harder things.
Yep your first summary was correct- only 5-6 hangs in total. I would probably say it’s best to do this before the session (but after your climbing warm up) so you’re at your freshest!
The first look quite easy to be V7 .. but it is difficult to judge not seeing the holds by real.. anyway V7 is an entry level in climbing... I climbe since one year and I can climb the most of the V7 in various gym most of the time flash or in a couple of attempts.. and I am 60 year old not extreme sporty..
These v7s definitely aren't outdoor level grading. V7 is absolutely not entry level, it is intermediate getting to advanced for the average population. You almost certainly aren't flashing v7 after 1 year at 60 years old, sorry to say. As long as you are having fun though then keep crushing!
@@the0neskater In the gym (just on plastic not on real rock) the last year when i was in good shape (1.72 cm x 61KG) I flashed the 60% of all the V7 .. but just the 2% of the V8 and I was not able to TOP propely any V9 and V10.. in the past month my body deteriorate I injured both my knee , the left I brok the menisk (I was already broked but I mange to broke the other side ) ; the right knee I did someting to the "rotulae" and I am just doing the radio etc to discover what is .. but it is really painfull .. furter I thake kilos and now I am 65KG .. so now I still can climb on V7 but I flash them rarely. Because of my knees etc also the grade of the circuits (25/35 movements ) are lower before my best was 7B flash and 7C in a couple of go .. now I can climb 7B max because I cannot lolotte propely.. I went bouldering outside , on rock, just once , the past winter it was raining and we have time to try "just" three block a V9 that my friend was working and he did it but I was unable to do it .. I did just the "exit" that is evaulated about V5 slabby very fingery and exposed I did in my third go (but I was cold).. then I flashed another V5 this time was overhang on sloopers .. then we tried a V8 but we were unable to find the right beta further it was raining a lot.. Climbing into the crags with the ROPE, the past year I was with my friend (the same that bring me to boulder) about 10 times in total anyway climbing with my friend that is much stroger than me (8b on the rope) was stimulating for me and I did as best result 7b (5.12b flash and I fell before the anchor of a couple of 5.12d (7c) I was very very scared I thins this was the reasin way I was unable to redpoint the pitches .. This year unfortunately I went to climb just 8 times with my girlfriend and she love clime on 5c .. so my best grade was 6c+ (OS) .. Overall... you are right ! My 60th year old body breaks if I try harder things (more that V7 boulder or 7c rope .. ) then if I had the chance to go on rock I think I can improuve... Note : I had altredy climbed in my life in the 90ts (1990 ) ..
This is one of the best climbing teachers on TH-cam, and I've basically seen them all. Very well rounded, and every tip if helpful across the board for every person or body type.
Absolutely the best!
Seriously the most underrated climbing channel there is, and Zach is just such a natural teacher
This is by far the best, most applicable advice I've seen from a climbing video. No more recycled garbage "do quiet feet, try this feet first exercise...", just real advice WHILE on the wall.
Just recently broke into the V8 range, can't wait for your video on them :D
😆🙏
I love these grade analysis videos. Would love to see you revisit prior grades with different route settings in time. Talking through the beta and techniques required is helpful.
Definitely plan to revisit previous grades!
@ From all the gumbies like me out there, we appreciate you. ❤️
Your channel should have more views and subs. The way you deliver information is top notch. I climb V9 and even in the V5 video, I had ONE tip I now use every sesh. Thanks for you both.
Ayy thanks that means a lot 🙌
I LOVE those micro beta tips. I just got stronger by watching this
Bro I’ve just started trying V7/8s and there’s so much good info and advice in this 🙏🏽 Thanks for the amazing content
This is one of the best technique videos I’ve seen on TH-cam. Amazing job !
Really like such kind of videos, not tricks or tips, but focusing on how to solve a dedicate problem. Enjoy the thinking process and learn a lot!
the first tip made me realize that whenever a hold is long, we must consider all the positions and their advantages. It would be nice to see one video where you take a seemingly impossible boulder and improve 50 times the beta until it looks easy, just to prove the point that there are always ways to improve the beta. The problem with comp and training is that we either don't have time or don't have the energy budget to climb a hard boulder so many times. Of course some boulders are straight forward and based on pure strength so it wouldn't apply to them but others are very technical and there you can make wonders. At my level, it feels important to master the details because I can't rely on pure strength and because my instincts are not evolved enough to find the best beta easily, so many boulder are not attainable without a kind of beta break that better climbers don't bother looking for
Genuinely such amazing content. Thank you! I'd love to see a board training video V7 - V10 tips please !!
Just sent my first V7 yesterday and this video couldn’t have come at a better time! Thanks yall 😎
Great video, I liked that you explained complex techniques in detail instead of giving platitudal advice about mindset like many other similar videos
I've just started flashing some 6's post injury but haven't really attempted any 7's yet so this was perfect. Thanks!
You are probably one of my favorite climbers to watch and learn. Thank you for the great content!
I've been watching climbing videos for several years now and this is the first time i see this channel. It's absolutely amazing and full of useful and helpful tips and tricks. Great job, you guys, keep it up. You have a new subscriber. :)
😆🙌
love the precise specific advice for each boulder from a pro point of view, even if V7 what seems to be 7a+ in europe is something I can only dream of climbing for now. still a lot of tips I can take for easier climbs.
Thank you. I usually never watch these types of videos because they often feel like "been there, done that". I appreciate the details!
Great video guys. Love how informative and in depth you go into things. Your channel deserves more recognition!
I never watch this kind of video because they're usually useless and annoying. This seems to be the exception. The analysis in this video is exactly what it claims to be: actionable. Excellent video, excellent teacher.
🙏🙏
Refreshing authenticity + practical applicable coaching… super impressed and grateful.
:) 🙏🙏
This video is such a gem. Thank you so much!
Waiting for the v16-17 tutorial 🤩
Casually dropping knowledge bombs. Thank you !
Wonderful advice once again, thank you a lot for that amazing content and knowledge you keep sharing with us !
I finally passed my v7 plateau so I'm very much looking forward to the v8 video. These videos are always filled with such great advice
Absolutely love this series.
Amazing video. Now I have to go back and rewatch the older ones again for a refresh.
Litteraly sent my first V7 after watching your video. Thx for the tips.
Ayyy let’s go!! 🔥
Great video! I love the way you teach and your humility is obvious. It was also funny to see you climbing at Le Crux with that Rose Bloc t-shirt. Thanks for the tips!
I love that this video is coming from a reading standpoint and not a reactive one (e.g. mistakes that all v7 climbers make). If you can spot it from the ground, why make the mistake in rhe first place? V refreshing vid
🙏🙏
Great video! So many good tips! This is 100% why I hate underclings, because I blew out some discs deadlifting so I avoid that movement like the plague lol. Engaging the glutes, core and lats is definitely the way to go for good deadlift form!
Nice dude. Working on breaking into v7 so this was cool for me. Appreciate ya
The best series on TH-cam. Thanks!
this under cling boulder is a complex case to theorize because normally with under-clings it's better to stand tall as quick as possible and get the hips as close as possible to the wall but with no foot holds, we must smear, so we can't flex the legs completely, we can't stand tall or we loose the ideal foot position and slip, so it's a compromise type position with multiple "dimensions" to consider, extended arms, half flexed legs, straight lower back. Thanks for the demonstration, I feel that it will help me at some point !
Thanks so much for this! I'm visiting montreal next week and I'm definitely gonna make a stop at this gym!
Great tips for this grade! Thanks!!
How about what kind of training are recommended for each grade progresaion?
Thanks so much for these tips!
Been doing double takes for a coordination dyno I did recently, without full awareness... Thanks for the packed insightfull content
Nice man, earned a sub your vids are very detailed.
I agree that low percentage move require multiple tries in a row, the only limit is how far the move is and what's our stamina/endurance, sometimes you must wait a bit more and depending on your climbing approach investing too much in one hard boulder is not always on the table. Personally I like to switch boulder easily. The case where waiting is really important is when the move is physical and require commitment, not waiting will only make us fail and lose confidence as well as stamina, but when it's more about technique, many tries is key, sometimes is really in the middle ground so knowing why you climb and the objective of the session helps to decide, also knowing and understanding why you fail is important, especially on the long run to grow consistently. For instance I'm afraid of a bad fall, so when ever the last moves require a lot of commitment, I hesitate a lot so I've been trying to put myself is this situation progressively but consistently, if possible not too high so I can learn how to fall and accept it. I still don't try last move if they are low percentage and the fall look bad but now I recognize when the fall is kind of controlled and allow myself some high jump per session.
I LOVE these videos! I'm nowhere near V7 level, although as I've commented before, I think my gym is very sandbagged as a lot of the 'easy' problems involve moves/features you've described at higher grades 😅. But I already like delving into the minutiae of technique, perhaps because of sub-optimal morphology (my genetics favoured legs over arms and torso) and lack of strength 🙃. I'm already a bit of a beta-breaker (love a tactical kneebar!).
I also like having a go at moves on harder boulders even if there's no chance of me climbing the whole thing - just to experiment, explore and learn about what goes into the movement/position/grip type.
This channel is great - you have a real knack for explaining and demonstrating. 👏
Yeah sounds like you’re gym grades pretty stiff!
That’s awesome to hear! Lots of people are scared to try boulders that are a bit above their grade and miss out of learning opportunities so good for you 💪
I was able to do the first purple v7 thanks to your tips :D
Ayy let’s go!!
incredible video, thanks
Excellent tips, thank you!
yea man, beta and body position are the key for success, thanks for the tips.
I know you are a professional athlete, but you'd be a great coach and climbing teacher. I'd love to get coached by you.
Thanks! Definitely something I’d be interested in once the bulk of my comp career is done :)
Amazing tips, thank you :)
Great content!
i never knew the thumb trick for blocked holds
you always learn sth new I guess :DD
So when is the V7 to V8 video coming out 🙂 great content, I always learn a lot from the both of you!
Should be within the next couple weeks!
can't wait for the V15 video
Thanks for validating that my technique is absolutely flawless and the reason I don't always send V8 is because I lack strength
Instant follow
Above my pay grade but I'd love to try it.
Super weird question probably, but what brand shorts do you buy from? My husband loves them and I'm thinking about it as a Christmas gift!
Haha the shorts I’m wearing in this video are a brand called Martini. I got them in Austria so hopefully they ship ;)
I am not sure if you mensioned it but I'd like to know where you filmed this so I can try those myself🙏
This is Le Crux Laval!
Nice video :) And thanks for the hangboard protocol. When would you generally recommend one should do these in relationships to training session? (Before a climbing session as recruitment? Does it depend on the type of sesssion? On a rest day?)
I would probably recommend them for before the session so you’re at your freshest! Could also work on a rest day but just listen to your body and don’t hangboard if your fingers are tired!
hey, great video again, im interested in testing unparallel shoes, do you know if they are available in a climbing gym in the montreal area?
I don’t think they’re sold much in the gyms these days unfortunately. But check the Bloc Shop online store they might have something!
Re. Smearing: From a physics point of view it is not about the apparent surface area (at least to first order of approximation, Amontons' Second Law)! The force applied perpendicular to the wall is higher when you put your feet higher, also the ratio of perpendicular vs tangential force is more optimal.
13:40 I call it a Thumb Gaston.
As for the Hangboarding: Do you recommend to do it on off days? Right before the climbing (after warm-up)? Or like in the morning and to go climbing in the afternoon? Or something completly different?
I'd like to know as well, if he's hanging boarding on off days, on days, before or after session? Great questions. Been climbing for 3 years, I feel I should start seriously hang boarding
Definitely not a one-size-fits-all answer to this but my personal preference is to do it on a climbing day. I like to rest for 1-2 hours after climbing, re warm up, then do my hangboard.
But everyone is different so find what’s best for you! My only recommendation would be to make sure you don’t hangboard while your fingers are super tired
@@richardsonsclimbing thanks, yes for sure. I just like to know the different approaches climbers take and try somethings out. Never thought of cooling down after climbing and doing the hangboarding then. Lets see how my body responds to it
There it is, nice!
But first, lemme rehab my A4-Pulley-strains real quick.. :D
good stuff
Question for the climbing conoisseurs here:
If my flash grade is v8 and that my projecting and limit grade is also v8. Does that mean that Im just weak?
Fire fire
sorry for the offtopic, but will there be a dedicated video for the panam comp? i saw it and not to spoil things am not commenting:)
Haha yep there will be a video
Funny thing, that last red + volumes v7 is now a v8 :). woopsies. The blocked crimp/slopers v7 and the last sequence of that paddle v8, insane how your beta is completely different from the other climbers 😭😭
5 sets with only 1 rep each? Both hangboard and pinchblock?
Yes exactly! About 2-3 times a week!
I can climb like half of the v4-v6’s at my gym (my gym grades by ranges) but v6-v8 it’s like most of the starting positions I cannot even hold. Do you think this is probably more of a strength issue or a technique issue?
Usually the beginning just feels so awkward I would never be able to hit the second hold and stick it…
Hmm potentially it is a strength issue. Maybe try to get closer to sending all of the grade range where you’re able to do half of them, then start working the harder ones!
I'm waiting for the V17 tips video
So to summarize the hang: 5 sec half crimp then rest for 3 minutes then repeat that for 6 times ? Or do you mean 5 seconds on half crimp then rest shortly and repeat for 5-6 times then rest for 3 minutes and then repeat that whole sequence 1-2 times? Also do you do them post climbing or before? Thanks again for your help with all this!! I’m still stuck at trying to be consistent v6 but I’m trying harder things.
Yep your first summary was correct- only 5-6 hangs in total. I would probably say it’s best to do this before the session (but after your climbing warm up) so you’re at your freshest!
Four minutes in the video do I finally realize I’ve climbed that purple v7😅
"It's a V7, so there's no footholds." ---Let me introduce you to my friend, the Moonboard.
That’s called a “Thumb Sprag”. I think!!
so curious to see when you cant casually talk during a boulder anymore :)
I am simply not strong
First :D
V5's in my gym
Ngl most of these look v5-6
this is a bad you are assuming that everyone has very strong pinc for boulder one
plus not everyone is 75 kg or less
The first look quite easy to be V7 .. but it is difficult to judge not seeing the holds by real.. anyway V7 is an entry level in climbing... I climbe since one year and I can climb the most of the V7 in various gym most of the time flash or in a couple of attempts.. and I am 60 year old not extreme sporty..
These v7s definitely aren't outdoor level grading. V7 is absolutely not entry level, it is intermediate getting to advanced for the average population. You almost certainly aren't flashing v7 after 1 year at 60 years old, sorry to say. As long as you are having fun though then keep crushing!
@@the0neskater In the gym (just on plastic not on real rock) the last year when i was in good shape (1.72 cm x 61KG) I flashed the 60% of all the V7 .. but just the 2% of the V8 and I was not able to TOP propely any V9 and V10.. in the past month my body deteriorate I injured both my knee , the left I brok the menisk (I was already broked but I mange to broke the other side ) ; the right knee I did someting to the "rotulae" and I am just doing the radio etc to discover what is .. but it is really painfull .. furter I thake kilos and now I am 65KG .. so now I still can climb on V7 but I flash them rarely. Because of my knees etc also the grade of the circuits (25/35 movements ) are lower before my best was 7B flash and 7C in a couple of go .. now I can climb 7B max because I cannot lolotte propely..
I went bouldering outside , on rock, just once , the past winter it was raining and we have time to try "just" three block a V9 that my friend was working and he did it but I was unable to do it .. I did just the "exit" that is evaulated about V5 slabby very fingery and exposed I did in my third go (but I was cold).. then I flashed another V5 this time was overhang on sloopers .. then we tried a V8 but we were unable to find the right beta further it was raining a lot..
Climbing into the crags with the ROPE, the past year I was with my friend (the same that bring me to boulder) about 10 times in total anyway climbing with my friend that is much stroger than me (8b on the rope) was stimulating for me and I did as best result 7b (5.12b flash and I fell before the anchor of a couple of 5.12d (7c) I was very very scared I thins this was the reasin way I was unable to redpoint the pitches ..
This year unfortunately I went to climb just 8 times with my girlfriend and she love clime on 5c .. so my best grade was 6c+ (OS) ..
Overall... you are right ! My 60th year old body breaks if I try harder things (more that V7 boulder or 7c rope .. ) then if I had the chance to go on rock I think I can improuve...
Note : I had altredy climbed in my life in the 90ts (1990 ) ..
This video is very very valuable! Thank you a lot!