I typed this list of instructions I took down from the video. It's word for word what we just listened to so up vote this so we have both options when you make it out to your garage. 1. Undo Chain 2. Detach cable from rear mech, pull out cable 3. Unscrew main rear mech bolt 4. Screw in new rear mec, watch for cross threading 5. Tighten B tension screw behind the stop on the hanger should be 1 cm from top jockey wheel and big sprocket Removing Cables 6. Gear down 7. Roll back rubber lever cover and remove cable 8. Insert Cable through the same cable guides etc the original came from 9. Screw the barrel adjuster in entirely and turn it back one rotation 10. Tighten the crimp bolt on the rear mech onto the cable, having pulled the cable tight 11. reattach chain 12. (Chain position Smallest cog in the rear and biggest ring in the front) Align the jockey wheels to the smallest cog using the H screw. Screw clockwise to move towards bigger cogs. 13. (Swap to biggest cog small ring, if you cant get into the big cog its either lack of cable tension or the L screw push down on the mech/pull cable to test the tension first) Use L screw to align rear mech jockey wheel to the big cog 14. Adjustments - starting from the big cog try to gear into your small cogs. If it doesnt shift smoothly try loosening the barrel adjuster. Adjust till you're satisfied. 15. Cut the cable leaving one inch of cable hanging out and add on a cable end cap and crimp it on.
Thanks. I've done it successfully. Went into my LBS for a chainlink connector and cable crimps, told the guy what I was doing, he wasn't very happy as he's being doing all my repairs for a number of years now, I've not often been happy with the standard of his work, but now I can do some of it myself, that's just great.
Well, I just spent about 8 hours over 3 days trying to figure out why I could not adjust the derailleur. Maybe he said it in this video, but I did not hear it. Before you tighten the derailleur, or mech as he calls it; it must first be rotated as far as possible to the rear of the bike, then tighten it. Dumb yes, but who knew the first time? I can see now that he's holding it in the rear position, but that was not obvious until I found my own error.
I wish we could all have the same standard when it came to what "lowest gear" means. At 1:55, Dan talks about shifting to the "lowest gear," but the video shows him shifting to the smallest cog, which I would generally call the "highest gear" (since it's the highest gear ratio).
Yeah, he meant smallest cogs there. The H and L limit screws are labeled consistently, with H standing for the highest gear you would use for high speed, just like in a car
have to say thanks GCN, Having recently bought a new bike with cheapish parts, through the guidance on these videos I have managed to replace almost all the mechanical parts on my bike to ultegra+DA :D
Thanks guys for this video. I was struggling for hours trying to get the gears to downshift with a replacement medium cage (to cater for the 32 cassette) SRAM Force 22 setup. This video mentions replacing frayed / old cables so I reluctantly due to the internal routing replaced the cable and now it works like a dream. The old cable was getting was caught up inside the sheath and not allowing the derailleur to freely move.
Best description yet on changing and setting up rear derailleur that I have seen. Well done guys. Typed instructions from you would be even better. Thanks
@ exactly 3:00-I have made the mistake of completely pushing out the link pin on chains in the past. I see that your image @ 3:00 shows no pin in the link. Question: What is the best way to reinstall the pin in the chain link to complete the repair.?
Thank you for this video. I have a mountain bike that needs a new rear mech. This video will be a big help. My main concern was adjusting the new mech. I now know it should be fairly straightforward.
Awesome GCN as always. Can you do a video on carrying out a full groupset change for a new cyclist. I.e what bit to tackle first, any specific order to what components to do at what stage? Thanks
If the chain is jumping around just after installing a new chain it's most likely that (sadly) you need a new cassette too. Unless you manage to replace a chain before it gets too stretched you'll end up wearing the sprockets on your cassette and need a new cassette at the same time as a new chain.
This is how every bike shop scams customers!!! They tell you that chain is overused (even if you have no any problems on that). You agree to have a new chain. Then you realised that this was bad call and the guy only then tells you - you need a new cassette too. I have learned how to keep the chain and shifting as clean as possible. After 20 000km with my new Rose Reveal Four I still have no need for new parts. When I'll have a feeling that chain is done then I'll replace chain and cassette at once! But thanks for the video! You encouraged me to try to fix this issue by myself!
It's probably just a matter of adjusting the cable and the stop screws. You might need to change your rear mech to accommodate the larger cassette, so it's worth taking it to your local bike shop to get it checked out.
I just wanna say thank you so much for this tutorial! You did fantastic .I'm a rookie at working on bikes so I had quite the struggle replacing my derailleur. Thanks to your video I was able to manage. I had no clue on how to adjust it prior to your video.
fantastic, just setup my rear derailleur that 2 mechanics fail to complete effectively. Fantastic advice and keep these great guides coming. My Trek Madone is feels silky smooth when shifting
You can just turn the screws so that the jockey wheels line up with the highest/lowest sprocket on the cassette that you want to be able to shift into - that's the theory at least!
. Thank you for the video! You did an excellent job with explaining all the details. Though, rather than unfastening the chain, I just remove one of the little cogs. This is quick and easy.
This was a bit rushed, but can I stress that TINY adjustments are needed for fine-tuning? Like 1/8th turn. Before you rethread the chain (skipped over here) push the mech in and out and roughly adjust the high/low screws as it's a lot easier without the chain in place
Good video, but adjusting the high/low screws is much easier (at least in my experience) with the chain off the bike and using your hand to push the derailleur in/out while adjusting the screws. I also do this while adjusting the b-limit screw with the chain off the bike to get a rough estimate, and then fine-tune that once the chain is back on the bike.
Great video - I taught myself how to do this, however your video is a great guide for those wanting to learn (as higher end groupsets require a lot of fiddling, it saves time and money knowing to do it yourself!) cheers.
any chance you guys will do a video on fixing a bent derailleur hanger? in broad strokes it's pretty straightforward. just looking to see if you have any pro tips.
@@StuWright left my bike in a shop for like 11 days, couldn't pedal, brakes were fucked, gears wont shift, kickstand shitty, handlebars falling off. They tuned the brakes and fixed it so I could pedal. They screwed the kickstand in so much they stripped it, kickstand still didnt work. Handlebars were fucked and the gears still didnt work.
We looked at doing a how to glue tubs video, but they're a real pain to do well, and doing a good video on how to glue them is even harder - the version we ended up abandoninng was over seven minutes long! We'll revisit it though and see if we can come up with something better.
The direction of the barrel adjustment (counter/anti-clockwise) was easy to understand in this video, but in many cases saying clockwise or counter/anti-cw isn't always easy to determine. Esp with the mid cable adjusters where it's easy to confuse which direction is CW. Is there a thumb rule about knowing what direction is supposed to be CW?
Small tip: instead of using an end cap on the shifter (or brake) cable you can also use electrical shrink tubing. Looks better in my opinion (you can chose your color) and it has te same effect (the cable doesn't unwires itself and doesn't corrode at the cutted surrface).
Thanks for your very clear video. I've just fitted new shifters to my old Dawes mountain bike. The rear gear seems to be stuck in 8th. Try as I might, I cannot get it to change up to the 1st. It wont even go from 8 to 7. My problem is that, when I adjust the H and L screws, I cannot see ANY part of the derailleur moving AT ALL! I was surprised at just how much movement I saw in the video when you turned the H-screw. Am I looking at a new derailleur here? I have checked the hanger and it is perfectly straight.
Pablo Nolasco hi, it went will thanks to this video. After years of use the old one snapped off and I was lucky it didn’t fall in to the wheel. I replaced Shimano Sora like for like. After replacement I had to shorten the chain get it running though properly. I guess my chain has stretched over the years too. I’ll be buying I new one soon. Overall, the video tells you all you need to know. More dirty oil on my bike though!
Nine times out of 9 - all you need to use is the --- BARREL ADJUSTER --- (seen at 4:30) Turning this knob CLOCKWISE will make your chain move closer to you or walk down the stairs if you will. Whenever you get the hang of this, you will easily be able to remedy small glitches and finetune / index your drivetrain. Keep in mind most bikes also have a barrel adjuster on the handle bar so if you`re a real handyman you can adjust this while out riding your iron horse. If you don`t understand how the two small stop screws (L&H) work and you already started messing with them you will likely get a lot of issues so just go get some technical help :)
I'm looking for a video showing fitting a rear mech from scratch putting a new chain on as well without having the old one .how do you get the right length .does the rear mech need to be a bit under temsiom or not ?
My bicycle had some problems with the read tyre so I had to replace inner tube and upon putting it back the rear derailleur was not working properly. After few days, I have got some pliers and I have fixed the read derailleur
Following my earlier question about the rear derailleur, I failed to say that the lower part of the derailleur is hanging to the rear under the tension of a spring? I have fitted a new cable and outer, Do I need to tension the cable which will then pull the lower part of the derailleur to 'hang' down and so in the correct position - if you understand what I mean?
Thanks for this! I have a ticking sound in just one rear cog. The bike is brand new and gear indexing was pretty good before a rather aggressive ride in the woods... Oops. I think I must have a bent rear mech hangar or derailer cage... is there a GCN video to save me from this issue too??!
Any chance you could do a video on how to set up a neos/suntour rear derailleur on a Tern folding bike.. it has a reverse grip shift and H+L screws on the other side of the mech and not easy to get to.
Swapped my WH-500 wheels for some Ultegra 6800s. Added the extra spacer for my 10 speed cassette on the 11 speed hub. Now rear derailleur is clicking on the biggest cogs and the chain hops around on the bigger cogs. Better towards the small cog end of the cassette. Any idea? Should I just be able to adjust the derailleur screws to solve it? Might replace cables to see if that does the trick -- they're a few years old.
Hi. I just subscribed. I've never really watched a how-to video regarding bicycles... I'm purely self-taught... Those sprocket things you talk about, if it's the same thing as I'm thinking of, I call them cogs. The derailleur (I only learned that word a couple of months ago) used to be called the gear changer. You've opened me up to a lot of new vocabulary today. The thing is, I'm good at fixing bikes. But when I go into a bike shop to get parts, I describe the part and they never actually tell me the names and I buy everything except inner tubes and break cables used so they never have a box... Hey, imagine doing professional cycle maintenance without knowing the names of the parts haha. Anyway, what do you do if you have a bike and someone's messed up the alan key bolt that holds the handle bars in place? My alan keys just spin now, doesn't undo it and the next size up doesn't fit... It's in there proper good and tight too, tried everything I can think of except possibly drilling it out...
Hi GCN, I Have a problem on my rear mech. My gears are working fine, however, when I ride on inclinations higher than 10% on my easiest gear, the rear mech scratches my back wheel spokes. It is quite scary and I am constantly afraid of a bigger damage. Is is a matter of adjusting the L screw, or the B tension screw? Could it be that the spokes in my wheel are not tight enough? Thanks in advance for any advice.
My gears don't shift correctly. I have to shift two or three times to go 1 or 2 gears. Then the bike decides to change gears whenever it wants after that. Usually when i'm going up a hill or when I least expect it. i've almost gone head over heals a few times. Normally I'll shift twice, bike will change one gear, then I'll shift back once to be "even". It's annoying. is this worn cables? coincidentally my derailleur just broke two days ago, was shifting to an easier gear for going up an incline and POP! thankfully it wasn't terrible and I was still able to pedal so I didn't fall. I'm wondering if I should attempt to change this myself as it'll save me labor. The bike is a fuji nevada and it's at least 12 years old. It's also my transportation as I don't have a car.
Since you couldn't figure why the gears are not shifting correctly, my advice would be to take it to a professionist. My amateur mechanic experience tolds me that when you don't know what are you doing, it will eventualy fail somewhere. Or, how someone said previously, it will make you lot of nerves.
Great video! Would love to see some common issues and how to fix them. For example creaking from pressure on the cranks and press fitted bb and maintaining their smoothness. Also maybe a video about putting new bar tape on and methods of pro finishes around the hoods etc.
Would love to see a bontrager brake adjustment video for the new 2013 integrated brakes. Fine tuning them is a bit of a pain and the seem to go out of whack really easy
question - I had to replace the rear bike tube, when I put the wheel back on, the shimano was offset about 2 inches out from the bike! I don't think I bent it, is there some alignment that I knocked out or something? The gear selector thinks I'm on the highest gear but the shimano has the chain on like the third cog, and wouldn't move any further to the other 4 cogs. Is there some gross adjustment that I'm not seeing to get the shimano back even close to the cassette?
I have an issue with my rear gear mech: the upper and lower sprockets are slightly wobbly, disallowing me to advance past 6th gear as the chain cannot maintain tension. I assume it is due to bad bearrings as the teeth are in good condition.is there a video for replacement of the gears themselves or would it be more financially viable to replace the whole mech. Please and Thank you
I ride a 12-27 cassette with a dura ace 7800 rear derailleur but I could never get the 39x27 to run smoothly as the rest of the gears. The derailleur seems to be jumping a little bit, you can't almost feel when climbing but your hear a noise. If you sping the crank with the bike stopped you see it clearly. Is it just a case of adjustment? (hope I made myself understandable)
Well Mate, I don't know whether to vigorously shake your hand, or maybe ask to slow down a bit. Think worse scenarios or give us a zero base line to work from; such as, at what setting should my barrel adjuster on my down tube be set before I begin w/ the rear derailleur?
Front derailleur issues!! Took me ages to figure out how to adjust the shifting properly, much more than with the rear mech. I still have an issue I havent figured out, the shifting on the front suddenly pulls out of adjustment by about half a centimetre, usually during out of the saddle efforts, but not always
I think you should do a video on repacking your bearings in the bottom bracket. Also repacking front and rear hubs would be good, but I've already done that.
question: i have a rear bicycle. can I eliminate all of them?? can i take off all the cassettes and the cable and everything al leave just one like a regular bicycle???
Why not tub glue vs tub tape. Just a suggestion. I've been using Tufo for over a year and had a good experience with them. It's sometimes daunting to go to tubular because of the gluing. Also tub vs clincher maybe.
I'd quite like a video on headset installation, another about all the different types of bbs and their installation. Also tips like if torque wrenches and carbon grip pastes are necessary
I bought a Shimano rear derailleur to replace the offbrand stuff that came preinstalled on the bike but when shifting to the largest rear cog, the derailleur interferes with the spokes, is that because I have a long or medium when I should have a short one?
I have a 1980's 5-speed Schwinn World Tourister. I just took off the rear wheel to repair the inner tubing, now I can't figure out how to mount the derailleur back on. When testing out different gears the chain seems to be too loose now. Any ideas on what the problem might be? I'm assuming I'm not mounting it correctly.
Hi, im thinking of getting a bike with Ultegra Di2 on it for racing with but the problem is I am a Under 16 therefor i have to have the gears restricted, my question is do you restrict the gears on the Di2 in the same way you do on the mechanical? Thanks.
hi i ride a mtb 9 speed- 3speed front. i have some problems with my rear derailleur if i move from smallest gear to my largest gear 1 to 3 goes fine 4 goes if i shift to 5 and i cant go to my largest gear too. i tought it was my hanger but i put a new one and its straight so i don;t know if its the derailleur. i dont wanna buy one and than that is not the problem. any help please
I typed this list of instructions I took down from the video. It's word for word what we just listened to so up vote this so we have both options when you make it out to your garage.
1. Undo Chain
2. Detach cable from rear mech, pull out cable
3. Unscrew main rear mech bolt
4. Screw in new rear mec, watch for cross threading
5. Tighten B tension screw behind the stop on the hanger should be 1 cm from top jockey wheel and big sprocket
Removing Cables
6. Gear down
7. Roll back rubber lever cover and remove cable
8. Insert Cable through the same cable guides etc the original came from
9. Screw the barrel adjuster in entirely and turn it back one rotation
10. Tighten the crimp bolt on the rear mech onto the cable, having pulled the cable tight
11. reattach chain
12. (Chain position Smallest cog in the rear and biggest ring in the front) Align the jockey wheels to the smallest cog using the H screw. Screw clockwise to move towards bigger cogs.
13. (Swap to biggest cog small ring, if you cant get into the big cog its either lack of cable tension or the L screw push down on the mech/pull cable to test the tension first) Use L screw to align rear mech jockey wheel to the big cog
14. Adjustments - starting from the big cog try to gear into your small cogs. If it doesnt shift smoothly try loosening the barrel adjuster. Adjust till you're satisfied.
15. Cut the cable leaving one inch of cable hanging out and add on a cable end cap and crimp it on.
legend
Thanks.
Superb nice one mate
Dude!
Thank you so much
Thanks. I've done it successfully. Went into my LBS for a chainlink connector and cable crimps, told the guy what I was doing, he wasn't very happy as he's being doing all my repairs for a number of years now, I've not often been happy with the standard of his work, but now I can do some of it myself, that's just great.
cheers 👍🏽
Well, I just spent about 8 hours over 3 days trying to figure out why I could not adjust the derailleur. Maybe he said it in this video, but I did not hear it. Before you tighten the derailleur, or mech as he calls it; it must first be rotated as far as possible to the rear of the bike, then tighten it. Dumb yes, but who knew the first time? I can see now that he's holding it in the rear position, but that was not obvious until I found my own error.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
When listing the needed tools it sounded like you said "a chainsaw" rather than "a chain tool"
Caught me off guard for a second there lol
We've a front derailleur fitting and adjusting video coming next Monday, so hopefully that will answer your questions.
I wish we could all have the same standard when it came to what "lowest gear" means. At 1:55, Dan talks about shifting to the "lowest gear," but the video shows him shifting to the smallest cog, which I would generally call the "highest gear" (since it's the highest gear ratio).
Probably just a mistake by the video editor
your comment does make a sense. Thank you
Yeah, he meant smallest cogs there. The H and L limit screws are labeled consistently, with H standing for the highest gear you would use for high speed, just like in a car
They all make this look so easy and straight forward, but every time I try this, I some how set my bike on fire and summon demon. :/
Mooneri lol
The last demon I summoned is still around and it keeps making demands and calling me "honey" :(
Mooneri ya know i got my dick stuck in the ceiling fan after watching this. Instructions not clear.
Mooneri don't let that demon read this! lol
Mooneri Same! But instead of the demon it’s my uncle.
There is something very satisfying about doing your own bike repairs. GCN is a massive help. Have a go, its not rocket science!!
Trashed my rear deraillieur - large twig incident, found a replacement and your video has shown me how to set it up! Thanks indeed!
I can't even begin to tell you how good this video is! I think you answered about 27 of my questions in less than 6 minutes! Thank you!
have to say thanks GCN, Having recently bought a new bike with cheapish parts, through the guidance on these videos I have managed to replace almost all the mechanical parts on my bike to ultegra+DA :D
Thanks guys for this video. I was struggling for hours trying to get the gears to downshift with a replacement medium cage (to cater for the 32 cassette) SRAM Force 22 setup. This video mentions replacing frayed / old cables so I reluctantly due to the internal routing replaced the cable and now it works like a dream. The old cable was getting was caught up inside the sheath and not allowing the derailleur to freely move.
Fantastic video. Very detailed and thorough! Looking forward to following these instructions as I work on the bike this weekend.
I'm just starting a RD replacement and this has cleared up all the bits I was shaky about. Thanks!
Best description yet on changing and setting up rear derailleur that I have seen. Well done guys. Typed instructions from you would be even better. Thanks
how do you know the angle which you attach the mech onto the frame relative to the cassette ?
There is usually a small "pip". On the derailleur which engages with a slot on the hanger. A spring keeps the mech in the correct position.
@@TheSpeegy Just a few years too late...
I used the tips in this video when i replaced my rear derailleur. Everything works fine! Easy to follow your guidelines
Just set up my first 1 x12 drivetrain. This vid has helped no end. One more subscriber here
@ exactly 3:00-I have made the mistake of completely pushing out the link pin on chains in the past.
I see that your image @ 3:00 shows no pin in the link.
Question: What is the best way to reinstall the pin in the chain link to complete the repair.?
Add always a new pin. ;)
Thank you for this video. I have a mountain bike that needs a new rear mech. This video will be a big help. My main concern was adjusting the new mech. I now know it should be fairly straightforward.
Awesome GCN as always. Can you do a video on carrying out a full groupset change for a new cyclist. I.e what bit to tackle first, any specific order to what components to do at what stage? Thanks
We're working on getting something set up with SRAM.
If the chain is jumping around just after installing a new chain it's most likely that (sadly) you need a new cassette too. Unless you manage to replace a chain before it gets too stretched you'll end up wearing the sprockets on your cassette and need a new cassette at the same time as a new chain.
This is how every bike shop scams customers!!! They tell you that chain is overused (even if you have no any problems on that). You agree to have a new chain. Then you realised that this was bad call and the guy only then tells you - you need a new cassette too.
I have learned how to keep the chain and shifting as clean as possible. After 20 000km with my new Rose Reveal Four I still have no need for new parts.
When I'll have a feeling that chain is done then I'll replace chain and cassette at once!
But thanks for the video! You encouraged me to try to fix this issue by myself!
Best tutorial on rear derailleur replacement and adjustment. Thanks!
2021..8 year old video and it still functions like this 👍 timeless
It's probably just a matter of adjusting the cable and the stop screws. You might need to change your rear mech to accommodate the larger cassette, so it's worth taking it to your local bike shop to get it checked out.
I just wanna say thank you so much for this tutorial! You did fantastic .I'm a rookie at working on bikes so I had quite the struggle replacing my derailleur. Thanks to your video I was able to manage. I had no clue on how to adjust it prior to your video.
fantastic, just setup my rear derailleur that 2 mechanics fail to complete effectively. Fantastic advice and keep these great guides coming. My Trek Madone is feels silky smooth when shifting
Fantastic videos as always. They certainly beat the service from any of the cycle shops in Aberdeen
Worth heading to a local bike shop. See if you have a friend who can recommend one!
You can just turn the screws so that the jockey wheels line up with the highest/lowest sprocket on the cassette that you want to be able to shift into - that's the theory at least!
.
Thank you for the video! You did an excellent job with explaining all the details.
Though, rather than unfastening the chain, I just remove one of the little cogs. This is quick and easy.
Thank you for the detailed guide! I have eventually managed to set up my rear derailleur.
This was a bit rushed, but can I stress that TINY adjustments are needed for fine-tuning? Like 1/8th turn. Before you rethread the chain (skipped over here) push the mech in and out and roughly adjust the high/low screws as it's a lot easier without the chain in place
Thanks for the video, just changed my derailleur in 20 mins, all set up and ready for my next ride :)
Good video, but adjusting the high/low screws is much easier (at least in my experience) with the chain off the bike and using your hand to push the derailleur in/out while adjusting the screws. I also do this while adjusting the b-limit screw with the chain off the bike to get a rough estimate, and then fine-tune that once the chain is back on the bike.
Excellent video just changed my rear derailleur using this, works first time!
Great video - I taught myself how to do this, however your video is a great guide for those wanting to learn (as higher end groupsets require a lot of fiddling, it saves time and money knowing to do it yourself!) cheers.
any chance you guys will do a video on fixing a bent derailleur hanger? in broad strokes it's pretty straightforward. just looking to see if you have any pro tips.
wanged74 pro tip: remove bent mech, replace with new dura ace di2.
It’s a great sense of achievement doing your own maintenance,until you get twenty miles from home and it all falls apart 😂
Well, now you know how to fix it. Chop chop,, ride on!
@@paulgush thanks for the rapid response
@@nigelpaull9207 clearly, I must work harder on my snark to make it up to your level...
Thanks to this, I was able to tune my RD by myself thus saving the cost for LBS repair. Thanks guys!
I think I'll just drop it off at my bike shop.
CB15 CB15 ikr
ye i try that, 5 wks later they`ve half fixed my brakes. jackasses "we were busy selling bikes" oh fu
@@StuWright left my bike in a shop for like 11 days, couldn't pedal, brakes were fucked, gears wont shift, kickstand shitty, handlebars falling off. They tuned the brakes and fixed it so I could pedal. They screwed the kickstand in so much they stripped it, kickstand still didnt work. Handlebars were fucked and the gears still didnt work.
Mn
@@zay9050 bike shops are literally so trash. Mechanics don't exist.
We looked at doing a how to glue tubs video, but they're a real pain to do well, and doing a good video on how to glue them is even harder - the version we ended up abandoninng was over seven minutes long! We'll revisit it though and see if we can come up with something better.
Really like this video. nice and simple. I see a lot of videos like about similar subjects which really overcomplicate these sorts of tasks
The direction of the barrel adjustment (counter/anti-clockwise) was easy to understand in this video, but in many cases saying clockwise or counter/anti-cw isn't always easy to determine. Esp with the mid cable adjusters where it's easy to confuse which direction is CW. Is there a thumb rule about knowing what direction is supposed to be CW?
Small tip: instead of using an end cap on the shifter (or brake) cable you can also use electrical shrink tubing. Looks better in my opinion (you can chose your color) and it has te same effect (the cable doesn't unwires itself and doesn't corrode at the cutted surrface).
Glad Im not the only one who does this ;)
Thanks for your very clear video. I've just fitted new shifters to my old Dawes mountain bike. The rear gear seems to be stuck in 8th. Try as I might, I cannot get it to change up to the 1st. It wont even go from 8 to 7. My problem is that, when I adjust the H and L screws, I cannot see ANY part of the derailleur moving AT ALL! I was surprised at just how much movement I saw in the video when you turned the H-screw. Am I looking at a new derailleur here? I have checked the hanger and it is perfectly straight.
I've be performing this task for the first time later today - fingers crossed!
How’d it go?
Pablo Nolasco hi, it went will thanks to this video. After years of use the old one snapped off and I was lucky it didn’t fall in to the wheel. I replaced Shimano Sora like for like. After replacement I had to shorten the chain get it running though properly. I guess my chain has stretched over the years too. I’ll be buying I new one soon. Overall, the video tells you all you need to know. More dirty oil on my bike though!
This was massively helpful, thank you!
Nine times out of 9 - all you need to use is the --- BARREL ADJUSTER --- (seen at 4:30) Turning this knob CLOCKWISE will make your chain move closer to you or walk down the stairs if you will. Whenever you get the hang of this, you will easily be able to remedy small glitches and finetune / index your drivetrain. Keep in mind most bikes also have a barrel adjuster on the handle bar so if you`re a real handyman you can adjust this while out riding your iron horse. If you don`t understand how the two small stop screws (L&H) work and you already started messing with them you will likely get a lot of issues so just go get some technical help :)
do you really need your rear derilleur to ride your bike ? mine in not connected ! waiting
I'm looking for a video showing fitting a rear mech from scratch putting a new chain on as well without having the old one .how do you get the right length .does the rear mech need to be a bit under temsiom or not ?
thats the cleanest cassette i have ever seen
Superbly created youtube content.
nice, clean and new parts. everytime when i do this at work - witout gloves - i have dirty hands ;)
Very helpful for when I need to replace gear set. Thank you
Thank you so much for your on-point and professional instructions. This video was a fantastic help.
Excellent video. Simple, concise and all you need for any problems is covered.
Thank you.
My bicycle had some problems with the read tyre so I had to replace inner tube and upon putting it back the rear derailleur was not working properly. After few days, I have got some pliers and I have fixed the read derailleur
Following my earlier question about the rear derailleur, I failed to say that the lower part of the derailleur is hanging to the rear under the tension of a spring? I have fitted a new cable and outer, Do I need to tension the cable which will then pull the lower part of the derailleur to 'hang' down and so in the correct position - if you understand what I mean?
Thanks so much. This really helped. I was fighting the L screw and all is well now.
Hi, do you have a video that explains the cable replacements for. Shimano sora 3500...?
Thanks for this! I have a ticking sound in just one rear cog. The bike is brand new and gear indexing was pretty good before a rather aggressive ride in the woods... Oops. I think I must have a bent rear mech hangar or derailer cage... is there a GCN video to save me from this issue too??!
Any chance you could do a video on how to set up a neos/suntour rear derailleur on a Tern folding bike.. it has a reverse grip shift and H+L screws on the other side of the mech and not easy to get to.
Can you do a content that the rear derailure mounted upwards?
Swapped my WH-500 wheels for some Ultegra 6800s. Added the extra spacer for my 10 speed cassette on the 11 speed hub. Now rear derailleur is clicking on the biggest cogs and the chain hops around on the bigger cogs. Better towards the small cog end of the cassette. Any idea? Should I just be able to adjust the derailleur screws to solve it? Might replace cables to see if that does the trick -- they're a few years old.
Great info, for MTBers too. I was looking for tips on cutting the cable sleeves to length but feel confident to wing it after watching your vid
wow looks easy! now let me grab my phone and set an appointment with my bike mech.
I know its a old video, but I need to know if I should use anti seaze paste on the rear deraileur screw or assemble it dry?
I will definitely have a go very straight forward thanks
Hi. I just subscribed. I've never really watched a how-to video regarding bicycles... I'm purely self-taught... Those sprocket things you talk about, if it's the same thing as I'm thinking of, I call them cogs. The derailleur (I only learned that word a couple of months ago) used to be called the gear changer.
You've opened me up to a lot of new vocabulary today. The thing is, I'm good at fixing bikes. But when I go into a bike shop to get parts, I describe the part and they never actually tell me the names and I buy everything except inner tubes and break cables used so they never have a box...
Hey, imagine doing professional cycle maintenance without knowing the names of the parts haha.
Anyway, what do you do if you have a bike and someone's messed up the alan key bolt that holds the handle bars in place? My alan keys just spin now, doesn't undo it and the next size up doesn't fit... It's in there proper good and tight too, tried everything I can think of except possibly drilling it out...
i Have heard about tools that bite into the bolt, allowing you to get a better grip and unscrew it, but I've never actually used those things myself.
Ah, fair enough :) I fixed it in the end
Yep, good ones - they're on the list. Personally I use carbon grip paste to try and stop those worrying creaks!
my chain is rubbing on the bottom jockey wheel when I'm in the 30t sprocket only. please help
You can ask me for help and i will reply. I will need a closer explanation though.
Hi GCN, I Have a problem on my rear mech. My gears are working fine, however, when I ride on inclinations higher than 10% on my easiest gear, the rear mech scratches my back wheel spokes. It is quite scary and I am constantly afraid of a bigger damage. Is is a matter of adjusting the L screw, or the B tension screw? Could it be that the spokes in my wheel are not tight enough? Thanks in advance for any advice.
My gears don't shift correctly. I have to shift two or three times to go 1 or 2 gears. Then the bike decides to change gears whenever it wants after that. Usually when i'm going up a hill or when I least expect it. i've almost gone head over heals a few times. Normally I'll shift twice, bike will change one gear, then I'll shift back once to be "even". It's annoying. is this worn cables?
coincidentally my derailleur just broke two days ago, was shifting to an easier gear for going up an incline and POP! thankfully it wasn't terrible and I was still able to pedal so I didn't fall. I'm wondering if I should attempt to change this myself as it'll save me labor. The bike is a fuji nevada and it's at least 12 years old. It's also my transportation as I don't have a car.
Since you couldn't figure why the gears are not shifting correctly, my advice would be to take it to a professionist. My amateur mechanic experience tolds me that when you don't know what are you doing, it will eventualy fail somewhere. Or, how someone said previously, it will make you lot of nerves.
Can you do a video over how to change shifters and brake levers on aerobars? I want to put SRAM R2C shifters and SRAM 900 brakes on my Shiv.
I'm lucky enough to have a top bike shop in my town....I just leave it to Martin...cheers mate..
Great video! Would love to see some common issues and how to fix them. For example creaking from pressure on the cranks and press fitted bb and maintaining their smoothness. Also maybe a video about putting new bar tape on and methods of pro finishes around the hoods etc.
Would love to see a bontrager brake adjustment video for the new 2013 integrated brakes. Fine tuning them is a bit of a pain and the seem to go out of whack really easy
question - I had to replace the rear bike tube, when I put the wheel back on, the shimano was offset about 2 inches out from the bike! I don't think I bent it, is there some alignment that I knocked out or something? The gear selector thinks I'm on the highest gear but the shimano has the chain on like the third cog, and wouldn't move any further to the other 4 cogs. Is there some gross adjustment that I'm not seeing to get the shimano back even close to the cassette?
I have an issue with my rear gear mech: the upper and lower sprockets are slightly wobbly, disallowing me to advance past 6th gear as the chain cannot maintain tension. I assume it is due to bad bearrings as the teeth are in good condition.is there a video for replacement of the gears themselves or would it be more financially viable to replace the whole mech. Please and Thank you
My shimano rear derailleur isn't a 5mm allen?
Seems round inside? Is there a special tool for some models?... 😢
Very clear and helpful!
I ride a 12-27 cassette with a dura ace 7800 rear derailleur but I could never get the 39x27 to run smoothly as the rest of the gears. The derailleur seems to be jumping a little bit, you can't almost feel when climbing but your hear a noise. If you sping the crank with the bike stopped you see it clearly. Is it just a case of adjustment? (hope I made myself understandable)
i have Hercules Roadeo Turner Vx 18 Speed and my rear derailleur is gets damage. any derailleur can be fit on it ?
Well Mate, I don't know whether to vigorously shake your hand, or maybe ask to slow down a bit. Think worse scenarios or give us a zero base line to work from; such as, at what setting should my barrel adjuster on my down tube be set before I begin w/ the rear derailleur?
Front derailleur issues!! Took me ages to figure out how to adjust the shifting properly, much more than with the rear mech. I still have an issue I havent figured out, the shifting on the front suddenly pulls out of adjustment by about half a centimetre, usually during out of the saddle efforts, but not always
I think you should do a video on repacking your bearings in the bottom bracket. Also repacking front and rear hubs would be good, but I've already done that.
Is 3x7 fd and rd shifter compatible to the 3x8 fd/rd shifter? Thanks.
So after installing the mech do u then tighten the b screw
question: i have a rear bicycle. can I eliminate all of them?? can i take off all the cassettes and the cable and everything al leave just one like a regular bicycle???
Why not tub glue vs tub tape. Just a suggestion. I've been using Tufo for over a year and had a good experience with them. It's sometimes daunting to go to tubular because of the gluing. Also tub vs clincher maybe.
I'd quite like a video on headset installation, another about all the different types of bbs and their installation. Also tips like if torque wrenches and carbon grip pastes are necessary
I bought a Shimano rear derailleur to replace the offbrand stuff that came preinstalled on the bike but when shifting to the largest rear cog, the derailleur interferes with the spokes, is that because I have a long or medium when I should have a short one?
I have a 1980's 5-speed Schwinn World Tourister. I just took off the rear wheel to repair the inner tubing, now I can't figure out how to mount the derailleur back on. When testing out different gears the chain seems to be too loose now.
Any ideas on what the problem might be? I'm assuming I'm not mounting it correctly.
On the list now, thanks!
Hi! is it a good idea to use blue loctite when installing a new rear mech?
No need to
Can you please post a video about how to put a 9 speed cassette on an 11 speed free-hub
Hi, im thinking of getting a bike with Ultegra Di2 on it for racing with but the problem is I am a Under 16 therefor i have to have the gears restricted, my question is do you restrict the gears on the Di2 in the same way you do on the mechanical? Thanks.
hi i ride a mtb 9 speed- 3speed front. i have some problems with my rear derailleur if i move from smallest gear to my largest gear 1 to 3 goes fine 4 goes if i shift to 5 and i cant go to my largest gear too. i tought it was my hanger but i put a new one and its straight so i don;t know if its the derailleur. i dont wanna buy one and than that is not the problem. any help please