I typed this list of instructions I took down from the video. It's word for word what we just listened to so up vote this so we have both options when you make it out to your garage. 1. Undo Chain 2. Detach cable from rear mech, pull out cable 3. Unscrew main rear mech bolt 4. Screw in new rear mec, watch for cross threading 5. Tighten B tension screw behind the stop on the hanger should be 1 cm from top jockey wheel and big sprocket Removing Cables 6. Gear down 7. Roll back rubber lever cover and remove cable 8. Insert Cable through the same cable guides etc the original came from 9. Screw the barrel adjuster in entirely and turn it back one rotation 10. Tighten the crimp bolt on the rear mech onto the cable, having pulled the cable tight 11. reattach chain 12. (Chain position Smallest cog in the rear and biggest ring in the front) Align the jockey wheels to the smallest cog using the H screw. Screw clockwise to move towards bigger cogs. 13. (Swap to biggest cog small ring, if you cant get into the big cog its either lack of cable tension or the L screw push down on the mech/pull cable to test the tension first) Use L screw to align rear mech jockey wheel to the big cog 14. Adjustments - starting from the big cog try to gear into your small cogs. If it doesnt shift smoothly try loosening the barrel adjuster. Adjust till you're satisfied. 15. Cut the cable leaving one inch of cable hanging out and add on a cable end cap and crimp it on.
Thanks. I've done it successfully. Went into my LBS for a chainlink connector and cable crimps, told the guy what I was doing, he wasn't very happy as he's being doing all my repairs for a number of years now, I've not often been happy with the standard of his work, but now I can do some of it myself, that's just great.
Well, I just spent about 8 hours over 3 days trying to figure out why I could not adjust the derailleur. Maybe he said it in this video, but I did not hear it. Before you tighten the derailleur, or mech as he calls it; it must first be rotated as far as possible to the rear of the bike, then tighten it. Dumb yes, but who knew the first time? I can see now that he's holding it in the rear position, but that was not obvious until I found my own error.
Thanks guys for this video. I was struggling for hours trying to get the gears to downshift with a replacement medium cage (to cater for the 32 cassette) SRAM Force 22 setup. This video mentions replacing frayed / old cables so I reluctantly due to the internal routing replaced the cable and now it works like a dream. The old cable was getting was caught up inside the sheath and not allowing the derailleur to freely move.
Best description yet on changing and setting up rear derailleur that I have seen. Well done guys. Typed instructions from you would be even better. Thanks
have to say thanks GCN, Having recently bought a new bike with cheapish parts, through the guidance on these videos I have managed to replace almost all the mechanical parts on my bike to ultegra+DA :D
I wish we could all have the same standard when it came to what "lowest gear" means. At 1:55, Dan talks about shifting to the "lowest gear," but the video shows him shifting to the smallest cog, which I would generally call the "highest gear" (since it's the highest gear ratio).
Yeah, he meant smallest cogs there. The H and L limit screws are labeled consistently, with H standing for the highest gear you would use for high speed, just like in a car
Awesome GCN as always. Can you do a video on carrying out a full groupset change for a new cyclist. I.e what bit to tackle first, any specific order to what components to do at what stage? Thanks
Thank you for this video. I have a mountain bike that needs a new rear mech. This video will be a big help. My main concern was adjusting the new mech. I now know it should be fairly straightforward.
I just wanna say thank you so much for this tutorial! You did fantastic .I'm a rookie at working on bikes so I had quite the struggle replacing my derailleur. Thanks to your video I was able to manage. I had no clue on how to adjust it prior to your video.
fantastic, just setup my rear derailleur that 2 mechanics fail to complete effectively. Fantastic advice and keep these great guides coming. My Trek Madone is feels silky smooth when shifting
. Thank you for the video! You did an excellent job with explaining all the details. Though, rather than unfastening the chain, I just remove one of the little cogs. This is quick and easy.
It's probably just a matter of adjusting the cable and the stop screws. You might need to change your rear mech to accommodate the larger cassette, so it's worth taking it to your local bike shop to get it checked out.
Great video - I taught myself how to do this, however your video is a great guide for those wanting to learn (as higher end groupsets require a lot of fiddling, it saves time and money knowing to do it yourself!) cheers.
Good video, but adjusting the high/low screws is much easier (at least in my experience) with the chain off the bike and using your hand to push the derailleur in/out while adjusting the screws. I also do this while adjusting the b-limit screw with the chain off the bike to get a rough estimate, and then fine-tune that once the chain is back on the bike.
We looked at doing a how to glue tubs video, but they're a real pain to do well, and doing a good video on how to glue them is even harder - the version we ended up abandoninng was over seven minutes long! We'll revisit it though and see if we can come up with something better.
If the chain is jumping around just after installing a new chain it's most likely that (sadly) you need a new cassette too. Unless you manage to replace a chain before it gets too stretched you'll end up wearing the sprockets on your cassette and need a new cassette at the same time as a new chain.
This is how every bike shop scams customers!!! They tell you that chain is overused (even if you have no any problems on that). You agree to have a new chain. Then you realised that this was bad call and the guy only then tells you - you need a new cassette too. I have learned how to keep the chain and shifting as clean as possible. After 20 000km with my new Rose Reveal Four I still have no need for new parts. When I'll have a feeling that chain is done then I'll replace chain and cassette at once! But thanks for the video! You encouraged me to try to fix this issue by myself!
You can just turn the screws so that the jockey wheels line up with the highest/lowest sprocket on the cassette that you want to be able to shift into - that's the theory at least!
Small tip: instead of using an end cap on the shifter (or brake) cable you can also use electrical shrink tubing. Looks better in my opinion (you can chose your color) and it has te same effect (the cable doesn't unwires itself and doesn't corrode at the cutted surrface).
This was a bit rushed, but can I stress that TINY adjustments are needed for fine-tuning? Like 1/8th turn. Before you rethread the chain (skipped over here) push the mech in and out and roughly adjust the high/low screws as it's a lot easier without the chain in place
I'd quite like a video on headset installation, another about all the different types of bbs and their installation. Also tips like if torque wrenches and carbon grip pastes are necessary
Great video! Would love to see some common issues and how to fix them. For example creaking from pressure on the cranks and press fitted bb and maintaining their smoothness. Also maybe a video about putting new bar tape on and methods of pro finishes around the hoods etc.
Would love to see a bontrager brake adjustment video for the new 2013 integrated brakes. Fine tuning them is a bit of a pain and the seem to go out of whack really easy
Nine times out of 9 - all you need to use is the --- BARREL ADJUSTER --- (seen at 4:30) Turning this knob CLOCKWISE will make your chain move closer to you or walk down the stairs if you will. Whenever you get the hang of this, you will easily be able to remedy small glitches and finetune / index your drivetrain. Keep in mind most bikes also have a barrel adjuster on the handle bar so if you`re a real handyman you can adjust this while out riding your iron horse. If you don`t understand how the two small stop screws (L&H) work and you already started messing with them you will likely get a lot of issues so just go get some technical help :)
I think you should do a video on repacking your bearings in the bottom bracket. Also repacking front and rear hubs would be good, but I've already done that.
thanks, great videos guys, simple clear instructions, really great tips for newbies! have you a video on changing from 9 speed to 10 or 11 speed eg how to change shifters, rear mech adjustment, cabling etc
any chance you guys will do a video on fixing a bent derailleur hanger? in broad strokes it's pretty straightforward. just looking to see if you have any pro tips.
The direction of the barrel adjustment (counter/anti-clockwise) was easy to understand in this video, but in many cases saying clockwise or counter/anti-cw isn't always easy to determine. Esp with the mid cable adjusters where it's easy to confuse which direction is CW. Is there a thumb rule about knowing what direction is supposed to be CW?
Hi. I just subscribed. I've never really watched a how-to video regarding bicycles... I'm purely self-taught... Those sprocket things you talk about, if it's the same thing as I'm thinking of, I call them cogs. The derailleur (I only learned that word a couple of months ago) used to be called the gear changer. You've opened me up to a lot of new vocabulary today. The thing is, I'm good at fixing bikes. But when I go into a bike shop to get parts, I describe the part and they never actually tell me the names and I buy everything except inner tubes and break cables used so they never have a box... Hey, imagine doing professional cycle maintenance without knowing the names of the parts haha. Anyway, what do you do if you have a bike and someone's messed up the alan key bolt that holds the handle bars in place? My alan keys just spin now, doesn't undo it and the next size up doesn't fit... It's in there proper good and tight too, tried everything I can think of except possibly drilling it out...
Thanks! I destroyed my derailleur last night coming back into town (better than it breaking in the country I guess) and it's super bent out of shape. Gonna be ordering a new one at some point and repairing.
Any chance you could do a video on how to set up a neos/suntour rear derailleur on a Tern folding bike.. it has a reverse grip shift and H+L screws on the other side of the mech and not easy to get to.
Thanks for your very clear video. I've just fitted new shifters to my old Dawes mountain bike. The rear gear seems to be stuck in 8th. Try as I might, I cannot get it to change up to the 1st. It wont even go from 8 to 7. My problem is that, when I adjust the H and L screws, I cannot see ANY part of the derailleur moving AT ALL! I was surprised at just how much movement I saw in the video when you turned the H-screw. Am I looking at a new derailleur here? I have checked the hanger and it is perfectly straight.
Why not tub glue vs tub tape. Just a suggestion. I've been using Tufo for over a year and had a good experience with them. It's sometimes daunting to go to tubular because of the gluing. Also tub vs clincher maybe.
There is a tip of how to remove the chain without cutting off, 1. Shift your rear derailleur on the small cog 2. Remove the lower jockey wheel, 3. You will see gaps on the cage, Try wiggle the chain on the cage gaps 4. And now you're ready to remove your old rear derailleur, The installation is the same but in reversed way without Step 3 (First sentence) and 4
I'm looking for a video showing fitting a rear mech from scratch putting a new chain on as well without having the old one .how do you get the right length .does the rear mech need to be a bit under temsiom or not ?
Front derailleur issues!! Took me ages to figure out how to adjust the shifting properly, much more than with the rear mech. I still have an issue I havent figured out, the shifting on the front suddenly pulls out of adjustment by about half a centimetre, usually during out of the saddle efforts, but not always
Thanks for this! I have a ticking sound in just one rear cog. The bike is brand new and gear indexing was pretty good before a rather aggressive ride in the woods... Oops. I think I must have a bent rear mech hangar or derailer cage... is there a GCN video to save me from this issue too??!
The replacement itself turned out to be pretty obvious but the major breakthrough I had was the adjustment whilst turning the pedals. I guess having a brand new derailleur with screws which were not sticking and rusty might have helped too! Thanks.
I'm replacing my rear derailleur because the cable retaining bolt has either seized or was ridiculously over-tightened by the shop and I or they have rounded off the allen bolt. OK, watch the video, how hard can this be? Step two: undo the cable retaining bolt. Damnit!! That was a bit of a worry unti I realised that you're only saying that to avoid having to replace the cable, and replacing the cable was the thing I was actually trying to do. Phew.
Pablo Nolasco hi, it went will thanks to this video. After years of use the old one snapped off and I was lucky it didn’t fall in to the wheel. I replaced Shimano Sora like for like. After replacement I had to shorten the chain get it running though properly. I guess my chain has stretched over the years too. I’ll be buying I new one soon. Overall, the video tells you all you need to know. More dirty oil on my bike though!
I had a new carbon frame with internal cable routing. There was too much internal friction and it shifted like garbage for over a week and no matter what I did (cable lube, lengthening cable housing for less extreme angles, etc..) nothing helped. Finally the problem worked itself out and it began to shift fine. I have no idea why it got better. Are there any tricks for sluggish, inconsistent shifting with internal routing? Or does it just need to be broken in? Thanks!
My bicycle had some problems with the read tyre so I had to replace inner tube and upon putting it back the rear derailleur was not working properly. After few days, I have got some pliers and I have fixed the read derailleur
What would help is go over some quick theory such as what to look for. Then revisit each of those, keeping it as easy as possible. Think of it as teaching your kids.
Following my earlier question about the rear derailleur, I failed to say that the lower part of the derailleur is hanging to the rear under the tension of a spring? I have fitted a new cable and outer, Do I need to tension the cable which will then pull the lower part of the derailleur to 'hang' down and so in the correct position - if you understand what I mean?
I typed this list of instructions I took down from the video. It's word for word what we just listened to so up vote this so we have both options when you make it out to your garage.
1. Undo Chain
2. Detach cable from rear mech, pull out cable
3. Unscrew main rear mech bolt
4. Screw in new rear mec, watch for cross threading
5. Tighten B tension screw behind the stop on the hanger should be 1 cm from top jockey wheel and big sprocket
Removing Cables
6. Gear down
7. Roll back rubber lever cover and remove cable
8. Insert Cable through the same cable guides etc the original came from
9. Screw the barrel adjuster in entirely and turn it back one rotation
10. Tighten the crimp bolt on the rear mech onto the cable, having pulled the cable tight
11. reattach chain
12. (Chain position Smallest cog in the rear and biggest ring in the front) Align the jockey wheels to the smallest cog using the H screw. Screw clockwise to move towards bigger cogs.
13. (Swap to biggest cog small ring, if you cant get into the big cog its either lack of cable tension or the L screw push down on the mech/pull cable to test the tension first) Use L screw to align rear mech jockey wheel to the big cog
14. Adjustments - starting from the big cog try to gear into your small cogs. If it doesnt shift smoothly try loosening the barrel adjuster. Adjust till you're satisfied.
15. Cut the cable leaving one inch of cable hanging out and add on a cable end cap and crimp it on.
legend
Thanks.
Superb nice one mate
Dude!
Thank you so much
Thanks. I've done it successfully. Went into my LBS for a chainlink connector and cable crimps, told the guy what I was doing, he wasn't very happy as he's being doing all my repairs for a number of years now, I've not often been happy with the standard of his work, but now I can do some of it myself, that's just great.
cheers 👍🏽
Well, I just spent about 8 hours over 3 days trying to figure out why I could not adjust the derailleur. Maybe he said it in this video, but I did not hear it. Before you tighten the derailleur, or mech as he calls it; it must first be rotated as far as possible to the rear of the bike, then tighten it. Dumb yes, but who knew the first time? I can see now that he's holding it in the rear position, but that was not obvious until I found my own error.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
I can't even begin to tell you how good this video is! I think you answered about 27 of my questions in less than 6 minutes! Thank you!
Fantastic video. Very detailed and thorough! Looking forward to following these instructions as I work on the bike this weekend.
When listing the needed tools it sounded like you said "a chainsaw" rather than "a chain tool"
Caught me off guard for a second there lol
Thanks guys for this video. I was struggling for hours trying to get the gears to downshift with a replacement medium cage (to cater for the 32 cassette) SRAM Force 22 setup. This video mentions replacing frayed / old cables so I reluctantly due to the internal routing replaced the cable and now it works like a dream. The old cable was getting was caught up inside the sheath and not allowing the derailleur to freely move.
Best description yet on changing and setting up rear derailleur that I have seen. Well done guys. Typed instructions from you would be even better. Thanks
There is something very satisfying about doing your own bike repairs. GCN is a massive help. Have a go, its not rocket science!!
I used the tips in this video when i replaced my rear derailleur. Everything works fine! Easy to follow your guidelines
I'm just starting a RD replacement and this has cleared up all the bits I was shaky about. Thanks!
Trashed my rear deraillieur - large twig incident, found a replacement and your video has shown me how to set it up! Thanks indeed!
have to say thanks GCN, Having recently bought a new bike with cheapish parts, through the guidance on these videos I have managed to replace almost all the mechanical parts on my bike to ultegra+DA :D
I wish we could all have the same standard when it came to what "lowest gear" means. At 1:55, Dan talks about shifting to the "lowest gear," but the video shows him shifting to the smallest cog, which I would generally call the "highest gear" (since it's the highest gear ratio).
Probably just a mistake by the video editor
your comment does make a sense. Thank you
Yeah, he meant smallest cogs there. The H and L limit screws are labeled consistently, with H standing for the highest gear you would use for high speed, just like in a car
Best tutorial on rear derailleur replacement and adjustment. Thanks!
Awesome GCN as always. Can you do a video on carrying out a full groupset change for a new cyclist. I.e what bit to tackle first, any specific order to what components to do at what stage? Thanks
Thank you for this video. I have a mountain bike that needs a new rear mech. This video will be a big help. My main concern was adjusting the new mech. I now know it should be fairly straightforward.
Just set up my first 1 x12 drivetrain. This vid has helped no end. One more subscriber here
I just wanna say thank you so much for this tutorial! You did fantastic .I'm a rookie at working on bikes so I had quite the struggle replacing my derailleur. Thanks to your video I was able to manage. I had no clue on how to adjust it prior to your video.
We're working on getting something set up with SRAM.
fantastic, just setup my rear derailleur that 2 mechanics fail to complete effectively. Fantastic advice and keep these great guides coming. My Trek Madone is feels silky smooth when shifting
2021..8 year old video and it still functions like this 👍 timeless
Fantastic videos as always. They certainly beat the service from any of the cycle shops in Aberdeen
Worth heading to a local bike shop. See if you have a friend who can recommend one!
.
Thank you for the video! You did an excellent job with explaining all the details.
Though, rather than unfastening the chain, I just remove one of the little cogs. This is quick and easy.
It's probably just a matter of adjusting the cable and the stop screws. You might need to change your rear mech to accommodate the larger cassette, so it's worth taking it to your local bike shop to get it checked out.
Great video - I taught myself how to do this, however your video is a great guide for those wanting to learn (as higher end groupsets require a lot of fiddling, it saves time and money knowing to do it yourself!) cheers.
Good video, but adjusting the high/low screws is much easier (at least in my experience) with the chain off the bike and using your hand to push the derailleur in/out while adjusting the screws. I also do this while adjusting the b-limit screw with the chain off the bike to get a rough estimate, and then fine-tune that once the chain is back on the bike.
Excellent video just changed my rear derailleur using this, works first time!
Thank you for the detailed guide! I have eventually managed to set up my rear derailleur.
We looked at doing a how to glue tubs video, but they're a real pain to do well, and doing a good video on how to glue them is even harder - the version we ended up abandoninng was over seven minutes long! We'll revisit it though and see if we can come up with something better.
Thanks for the video, just changed my derailleur in 20 mins, all set up and ready for my next ride :)
If the chain is jumping around just after installing a new chain it's most likely that (sadly) you need a new cassette too. Unless you manage to replace a chain before it gets too stretched you'll end up wearing the sprockets on your cassette and need a new cassette at the same time as a new chain.
This is how every bike shop scams customers!!! They tell you that chain is overused (even if you have no any problems on that). You agree to have a new chain. Then you realised that this was bad call and the guy only then tells you - you need a new cassette too.
I have learned how to keep the chain and shifting as clean as possible. After 20 000km with my new Rose Reveal Four I still have no need for new parts.
When I'll have a feeling that chain is done then I'll replace chain and cassette at once!
But thanks for the video! You encouraged me to try to fix this issue by myself!
Really like this video. nice and simple. I see a lot of videos like about similar subjects which really overcomplicate these sorts of tasks
Thanks to this, I was able to tune my RD by myself thus saving the cost for LBS repair. Thanks guys!
They all make this look so easy and straight forward, but every time I try this, I some how set my bike on fire and summon demon. :/
Mooneri lol
The last demon I summoned is still around and it keeps making demands and calling me "honey" :(
Mooneri ya know i got my dick stuck in the ceiling fan after watching this. Instructions not clear.
Mooneri don't let that demon read this! lol
Mooneri Same! But instead of the demon it’s my uncle.
Excellent video. Simple, concise and all you need for any problems is covered.
Thank you.
Very helpful for when I need to replace gear set. Thank you
You can just turn the screws so that the jockey wheels line up with the highest/lowest sprocket on the cassette that you want to be able to shift into - that's the theory at least!
Small tip: instead of using an end cap on the shifter (or brake) cable you can also use electrical shrink tubing. Looks better in my opinion (you can chose your color) and it has te same effect (the cable doesn't unwires itself and doesn't corrode at the cutted surrface).
Glad Im not the only one who does this ;)
This was massively helpful, thank you!
Yep, good ones - they're on the list. Personally I use carbon grip paste to try and stop those worrying creaks!
This was a bit rushed, but can I stress that TINY adjustments are needed for fine-tuning? Like 1/8th turn. Before you rethread the chain (skipped over here) push the mech in and out and roughly adjust the high/low screws as it's a lot easier without the chain in place
Thank you so much for your on-point and professional instructions. This video was a fantastic help.
Great info, for MTBers too. I was looking for tips on cutting the cable sleeves to length but feel confident to wing it after watching your vid
Great camera work! Many thanks for making this vid 👍
I'd quite like a video on headset installation, another about all the different types of bbs and their installation. Also tips like if torque wrenches and carbon grip pastes are necessary
Great video! Would love to see some common issues and how to fix them. For example creaking from pressure on the cranks and press fitted bb and maintaining their smoothness. Also maybe a video about putting new bar tape on and methods of pro finishes around the hoods etc.
Thanks so much. This really helped. I was fighting the L screw and all is well now.
Would love to see a bontrager brake adjustment video for the new 2013 integrated brakes. Fine tuning them is a bit of a pain and the seem to go out of whack really easy
Nine times out of 9 - all you need to use is the --- BARREL ADJUSTER --- (seen at 4:30) Turning this knob CLOCKWISE will make your chain move closer to you or walk down the stairs if you will. Whenever you get the hang of this, you will easily be able to remedy small glitches and finetune / index your drivetrain. Keep in mind most bikes also have a barrel adjuster on the handle bar so if you`re a real handyman you can adjust this while out riding your iron horse. If you don`t understand how the two small stop screws (L&H) work and you already started messing with them you will likely get a lot of issues so just go get some technical help :)
how do you know the angle which you attach the mech onto the frame relative to the cassette ?
There is usually a small "pip". On the derailleur which engages with a slot on the hanger. A spring keeps the mech in the correct position.
@@TheSpeegy Just a few years too late...
I think you should do a video on repacking your bearings in the bottom bracket. Also repacking front and rear hubs would be good, but I've already done that.
On the list now, thanks!
thanks, great videos guys, simple clear instructions, really great tips for newbies! have you a video on changing from 9 speed to 10 or 11 speed eg how to change shifters, rear mech adjustment, cabling etc
any chance you guys will do a video on fixing a bent derailleur hanger? in broad strokes it's pretty straightforward. just looking to see if you have any pro tips.
wanged74 pro tip: remove bent mech, replace with new dura ace di2.
The direction of the barrel adjustment (counter/anti-clockwise) was easy to understand in this video, but in many cases saying clockwise or counter/anti-cw isn't always easy to determine. Esp with the mid cable adjusters where it's easy to confuse which direction is CW. Is there a thumb rule about knowing what direction is supposed to be CW?
Great video again! Keep up the good work guys.
Good Video !!! can you make a Video about gluing tubulars ?
Hi. I just subscribed. I've never really watched a how-to video regarding bicycles... I'm purely self-taught... Those sprocket things you talk about, if it's the same thing as I'm thinking of, I call them cogs. The derailleur (I only learned that word a couple of months ago) used to be called the gear changer.
You've opened me up to a lot of new vocabulary today. The thing is, I'm good at fixing bikes. But when I go into a bike shop to get parts, I describe the part and they never actually tell me the names and I buy everything except inner tubes and break cables used so they never have a box...
Hey, imagine doing professional cycle maintenance without knowing the names of the parts haha.
Anyway, what do you do if you have a bike and someone's messed up the alan key bolt that holds the handle bars in place? My alan keys just spin now, doesn't undo it and the next size up doesn't fit... It's in there proper good and tight too, tried everything I can think of except possibly drilling it out...
i Have heard about tools that bite into the bolt, allowing you to get a better grip and unscrew it, but I've never actually used those things myself.
Ah, fair enough :) I fixed it in the end
thats the cleanest cassette i have ever seen
Can you do a content that the rear derailure mounted upwards?
I'm lucky enough to have a top bike shop in my town....I just leave it to Martin...cheers mate..
Thank you Dan, so easy to follow I fixed my problem nice and clear instructions
Great video, learned something here! can you do a FD maintenance video?
nice, clean and new parts. everytime when i do this at work - witout gloves - i have dirty hands ;)
Thanks! I destroyed my derailleur last night coming back into town (better than it breaking in the country I guess) and it's super bent out of shape. Gonna be ordering a new one at some point and repairing.
Any chance you could do a video on how to set up a neos/suntour rear derailleur on a Tern folding bike.. it has a reverse grip shift and H+L screws on the other side of the mech and not easy to get to.
Thanks for your very clear video. I've just fitted new shifters to my old Dawes mountain bike. The rear gear seems to be stuck in 8th. Try as I might, I cannot get it to change up to the 1st. It wont even go from 8 to 7. My problem is that, when I adjust the H and L screws, I cannot see ANY part of the derailleur moving AT ALL! I was surprised at just how much movement I saw in the video when you turned the H-screw. Am I looking at a new derailleur here? I have checked the hanger and it is perfectly straight.
Superbly created youtube content.
Why not tub glue vs tub tape. Just a suggestion. I've been using Tufo for over a year and had a good experience with them. It's sometimes daunting to go to tubular because of the gluing. Also tub vs clincher maybe.
There is a tip of how to remove the chain without cutting off,
1. Shift your rear derailleur on the small cog
2. Remove the lower jockey wheel,
3. You will see gaps on the cage,
Try wiggle the chain on the cage gaps
4. And now you're ready to remove your old rear derailleur,
The installation is the same but in reversed way without Step 3 (First sentence) and 4
I'm looking for a video showing fitting a rear mech from scratch putting a new chain on as well without having the old one .how do you get the right length .does the rear mech need to be a bit under temsiom or not ?
Can you guys do a video on servicing STI levers?
great video thank you , i really like the wheel-free hub ...for demonstration purposes , really nice job
Very clear and helpful!
I will definitely have a go very straight forward thanks
Front derailleur issues!! Took me ages to figure out how to adjust the shifting properly, much more than with the rear mech. I still have an issue I havent figured out, the shifting on the front suddenly pulls out of adjustment by about half a centimetre, usually during out of the saddle efforts, but not always
Adjusting the limiter screws to cut out part of the cassette for racing in youth category's would be a good video to have
Thanks for this! I have a ticking sound in just one rear cog. The bike is brand new and gear indexing was pretty good before a rather aggressive ride in the woods... Oops. I think I must have a bent rear mech hangar or derailer cage... is there a GCN video to save me from this issue too??!
The replacement itself turned out to be pretty obvious but the major breakthrough I had was the adjustment whilst turning the pedals. I guess having a brand new derailleur with screws which were not sticking and rusty might have helped too! Thanks.
Loving these videos, can you expand on the gap for the b tension screw, is that 1 cm from jockey wheel to cog excluding the chain or after...? Thanks!
I'm replacing my rear derailleur because the cable retaining bolt has either seized or was ridiculously over-tightened by the shop and I or they have rounded off the allen bolt. OK, watch the video, how hard can this be? Step two: undo the cable retaining bolt. Damnit!! That was a bit of a worry unti I realised that you're only saying that to avoid having to replace the cable, and replacing the cable was the thing I was actually trying to do. Phew.
I've be performing this task for the first time later today - fingers crossed!
How’d it go?
Pablo Nolasco hi, it went will thanks to this video. After years of use the old one snapped off and I was lucky it didn’t fall in to the wheel. I replaced Shimano Sora like for like. After replacement I had to shorten the chain get it running though properly. I guess my chain has stretched over the years too. I’ll be buying I new one soon. Overall, the video tells you all you need to know. More dirty oil on my bike though!
We've a front derailleur fitting and adjusting video coming next Monday, so hopefully that will answer your questions.
I had a new carbon frame with internal cable routing. There was too much internal friction and it shifted like garbage for over a week and no matter what I did (cable lube, lengthening cable housing for less extreme angles, etc..) nothing helped. Finally the problem worked itself out and it began to shift fine. I have no idea why it got better. Are there any tricks for sluggish, inconsistent shifting with internal routing? Or does it just need to be broken in? Thanks!
One of the best vids. Thanks a bunch.
Thanks soo much for easy to follow and well shot/edited/sound recorded video!
Can you do a video over how to change shifters and brake levers on aerobars? I want to put SRAM R2C shifters and SRAM 900 brakes on my Shiv.
Can you please post a video about how to put a 9 speed cassette on an 11 speed free-hub
do you really need your rear derilleur to ride your bike ? mine in not connected ! waiting
My bicycle had some problems with the read tyre so I had to replace inner tube and upon putting it back the rear derailleur was not working properly. After few days, I have got some pliers and I have fixed the read derailleur
you don't need to take out the chain, the derailleur has a screw that allows you to do it without. I hope this will help this video
Super easy. It just takes patience.
Hi, do you have a video that explains the cable replacements for. Shimano sora 3500...?
What would help is go over some quick theory such as what to look for. Then revisit each of those, keeping it as easy as possible. Think of it as teaching your kids.
Following my earlier question about the rear derailleur, I failed to say that the lower part of the derailleur is hanging to the rear under the tension of a spring? I have fitted a new cable and outer, Do I need to tension the cable which will then pull the lower part of the derailleur to 'hang' down and so in the correct position - if you understand what I mean?
So after installing the mech do u then tighten the b screw
where are the best places to get a bike service? I know halfords do them but doubt they are very good
wow looks easy! now let me grab my phone and set an appointment with my bike mech.