How To Replace A Gear Cable On A Road Bike | GCN Tech Monday Maintenance
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ส.ค. 2024
- Gear cables are crucial to the performance of a road bike, and there's nothing better than the feeling of crisp, smooth shifting. So if your shifters are stiff, you gear cables are fraying, or you've even snapped a cable, this is the video for you!
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Did this help you replace a gear cable? Let us know 👇
I just replaced 2 gear cables yesterday! The timing of this video is ironic lol.
No it didn't show me how to replace the inner gear cable through two separate sections of outer cable inside the frame
I can hear someone screaming at the ParkTools HQ saying "Where did i failed?" Must be the designer of the CN-10 watching you use the pliers to do/undo the pinchbolt at the end of the cable.
It didn't show us how to do it with a proper Campagnolo group equipped bike.
Excellent instruction. The only thing I add to my cable replacement is: When the old cable is out, I use compressed air to blow out any dirt that may have found its way into the cable tunnel. Then I shoot a little graphite into the insertion point of the cable. The cable will push it through and it adds a bit of slickness. Not sure if it is necessary, but it has worked for me.
One bit worth knowing, fresh cables do stretch during the first initial tens of miles. So make sure you check the indexing after some time.
Not strech but seats in but same sentiment.
Thanks Alex, perfectly explained. Just changed my inner cable myself for the first time. Very straightforward.
Thanks Alex! This makes me wish I had outer housing all the way through.
This was incredibly helpful, thanks so much!
Thank you for the detailed and step by step tutorial.
Great instructional video, the clearest and best explained one I have seen, most others rush through it and don't show each area of the setup as they go along, thankyou this will be very helpful.
Great presentation -- clear, simple, approachable for us non-mechanics and very helpful.
Nice video with clear instructions. Have you guys ever done one for when the gear cable snaps off inside the shifters? Coz that sucks. I found I needed copious amounts of swearing just to get it out. Lol
Very complete video , I have a regular mountain bike and feel this will help me .
Perfectamente explicado! el mejor video que he visto para el reemplamzo del cable, muy profesional!! felicitaciones, gran trabajo!!
Excellent video,
Thank you GCN!
Professional and thorough - the GCN style!
thanks a lot you guys have the best production and it makes following and understanding very easy. 17:15 what happened? vampire bicycle bit your hand!?
Great video! Thank you for your help
Hey this is well timed. I’m doing this on my tri bike today
Great video, thanks Alex, thanks GCN!
Excellent video Alex!! So clear and easy to understand!!❤️
Watch out Calvin, there’s a new mech wizard in town. 😊
very well presented ty
Thanks for the detailed video❤
Thx for saving my life. Perfekt.
Need a tutorial for internal cable routing with cable stops. This Orbea appears to have full housing in the frame.
very helpful. My cable snapped off inside my shifter. this was helpful for me to find it and extract it. BTW... those fancy "lined" and "pre-lubricated" cables tend to create more issues because those linings break down and gum up the housing. Maybe if you had a sealed system. My $.02 is skip that garbage and save money. unless you swap out your cables regularly - but I tend to fix when shifting isn't smooth. I was surprised how my lined cable looked all hairy when I removed it. no more extra spending for me!
Used the inner cable to keep the housing in place. So thenit will be easier to use the tape/glue to fix the housing to the handle bar... and then i needed to cut the housing.... Laughed at myself.... Thanks to the tip of the plastic guide so then I dont need to fully detach the entire cable. :D
Back in the olden days, before those cable end-caps were invented, my dad used to solder the ends of the cables to stop them fraying. Can't remember whether that was before or after threading the cable through the outer.
Back in those days some people also saudered the spokes at the 3rd cross. Those were the days of down tube shifters. Thanks.
I've used pop rivets for cable ends in the past. Just knock out the pin and there you have it, a cable end.
Before going to the trouble of replacing gear cables, I recommend checking that poor shifting isn't the result of a sticky derailleur. I was pretty sure I needed new cables due to sluggish gear changes on my Tarmac SL6, but after using 1/2 a can of WD40 on the pivot points and manually moving the derailleur up and down the range of gears for several minutes, I went for a ride today and bingo, the gears worked like new! I also found I needed to turn the barrel adjuster 1/2 a turn clockwise, to slightly reduce the tension. A lot less hassle than replacing the internal cable.😀
All my shift levers have the cable and housing that come out of the levers on the side. Like Dura Ace 7700 and 7800. I wasn't at all familiar with this system. This was interesting. These new systems have gotten a lot more complicated. I don't ever plan on having a hydraulic disc road bike. Thank you.
The cable cutters have the crimping bit on them.
Excellent video….
In addition
1. Best not wind the adjuster all the way in as you may need to add some slack (1 turn).
2. When tightening the pinch bolt pull the cable taught but not too tight otherwise you may not get first gear and will need to loosen the adjuster or repeat the process.
NB.
You must put in first gear before you start otherwise you’ll only get the gear you selected (before the cable change) and upwards NOT downwards. (we have all made that mistake)
You can also spray the inner cable and into the outer with lube/silicon which will make the cable feel even slicker.
You only need to adjust the limit/B screws if it’s a fresh mech install or if you swap wheel/cassette
Perfect!
Thank you, very clear. Have you got the equivalent for front derailleur Ultegra?
Time marches on. It's still simple but not quite as durable. Now a little red thread lock to the cable clamp on your '73 Nouveau Record. Remember Sundays only in good weather. Nice smooth ride that Columbus SL.
Never been so early ❤ Great Video
You’re good but Calvin’s still the greatest 😊
My tip is to dip the end in some superglue if you have to cut the end off a double ended cable. This will stop it unwinding as you're threading it through the housing. Only needs to be the tinniest of bits
When inserting a new cable,use a file to file down the cable so it will go in wirh no problem.
Do a episode on how to pre load different types of bottom bracket bearings.
I have the same bike and the front shifting is a nightmare, it takes all my strength to shift to the big ring. On a long ride my tired hands mean I can’t shift at all. It’s frustrating
*nice*
Since my bike was new i always had some clicking ticking noises coming from the cassette. No mechanic was capable fixing it . I even change the cassette and the chain with no luck . The shifting is spot on but i hear these clicking noises. Ultegra R8000 groupset with 11-28 cassette and 50/34.
Might be the hub, or spokes, or something else.
Hi :) every internal routed cable have a ‘guide’ housing tube in the frame that helps to easily change it?(Both shifter and brake)I would like to change my handlebar for an internally route,but i need to fully remove the cable and the housing to get it trough into the new handlebar.
Was there any reason you changed the pinch bolt from 4mm when you removed the cable, to 5mm when you replaced it?
:) Good video Alex. Very helpful.
You stole my words 🙂
Tan lines!
Is there a cable housing that goes inside the frame between the shifter and the rear derailleur or is it just the cable itself? Thank you!
I was hoping to learn how to replace the gear cable that operates the two cogs in the middle of the bike (Kona Dew Hybrid) 😕
Lately I can't get my (mtb) shoes sit stable on my Shimano SPD pedals like they used to. The heel floats a lot even though the spring is tensioned to max. I can also move my foot sideways a couple degrees, which feels super unstable/wobbly when getting out of the saddle. The shoes/pedals used to be completely stable/stiff and I was riding them with around 30% spring tension. New cleats and different pedals didn't solve the issue. Is this fixable or are my shoes toast and it's time to move to a road pedal system?
Put some gloves Alex. Take better care of your hands. 👍😉
i would just make a clean cut right between the outer and the cable pinch bolt~
Add one for Front Derailleurs
Cable end caps: In the old days (1970-1980) once installed, I would cut the cable to length and apply some solder to the end. That would prevent fraying of the cable and allow me to remove and re-lubricate the cable later. Now days, solder will not stick to the cable (especially Campagnolo). What are these new cables made of? Using end caps will not prevent fraying so that you can remove and re-use the cables later. Any fraying, no matter how slight, will prevent you from threading the cable back into the housing. Is there any way to seal the ends of the cable like the solder used in the old days and without using an end cap? Thanks.
That's why you don't need to cut your cables with so much left 15:20, once I did like this and the end of my cable not looking good)
Any ideas how to solve when feeding the new cable in it must be connecting with the internal housing on down tube, I took my pedals and chain ring off to check where it was going and is loose in the tube. Here’s to wishing I just took it for a service instead of doing it myself
Alex I inspected my bike front to back plus bottom bracket to seat post, I have no cables anywhere to be found on my bike. I think Sram forgot to include them when I bought the bike.
Any tips on how to deal with a snapped gear cable on a shimano shifter (6800) where the nib on the end is stuck inside, and there is no exposed cable so you can't get the purchase on any frayed ends to put tension on what is left of the cable to click back down the gears so the nib appears at the hole. Happened to me late at night when re-oiling chain and flicking through gears before a 100mile ride next day. Took over 1hr 30 mins to get it out so I could fit a new cable (fully internal routing with no full length outer ... much swearing which didn't help speed up the process. Any hacks to speed up this would be appreciated as I've had a shimano cable snapped in the right shifter a couple of times now without warning.
How do I know when to replace my cable housing? I've always replaced both housing and cable at the same time, but should I replace only the cable`?
If the cable already feels gummy and dirty, that's when the housing needs to go. Also replace it when cable operation still feels rough even with a new cable.
Curious to know, why only the inner and not the outer? I also have a fully integrated bike and I thought it would make sense to change both at once. My outer is also all the way from the shifter to the derailleur, is it necessary to ever change it at all?
If using a new cable still doesn't reduce friction, yes.
This job is not so simple when inner cable runs through two sections of outer cable in frame, now show us how this is done
... please
tie/attach (magnets)/glue a string to the end of the cable, pull the cable through to the shifters, then tie/attach/glue new cable to the string, pull the string back through the frame
Please could I ask how the barrel adjuster actually adds tension?
My understanding is that it moves the plastic housing/“outer” away from the derailleur (if turning the adjuster anti-clockwise). The only way that that can put the inner wire under tension is to rub on it, having done this. (1) where does that friction take place? (2) how is introducing friction to a system a good thing?
Seems to me the best method would be to put in some sort of tensioner within the derailleur, to act only on the inner wire itself instead of its protective covering (which is what the 105 newest front derailleur does I think).
Am sure greater minds than mine have thought this through, appreciate I’m probably missing something!
Doesn't add friction. It simply makes the effective length of the outer cable longer, and thereby the inner shorter proportionally.
@@jeffcarlton thanks. Don’t see how that can’t add friction though, if you’re routing the inner round a longer loop then it’d make no difference unless that longer outer loop then interacted with the inner.
@@jgogl9791 I think you're looking at this in the wrong way. The inner cable length is fixed (pinch bolt is tight). Increasing the effective length of the outer has the same effect as if you were shortening the inner - thereby adding tension to the derailleur (pulling against its spring). Think about it this way; if you had an elastic band pulled along the inside of a tube (fixed both ends) and then increased the length of the tube, the tension on the band increases. Hope this helps.
@@jeffcarlton thank you again for taking the time to reply. I see what you mean, but still don’t quite agree! As the length of the inner is fixed (assuming we stay in the one gear for this discussion), as you point out, the only way to increase the tension on a wire is to pull on it. With the physical bends in the inner/outer system, and the inner running closely along the inside of the outer cable, that necessarily must mean that the inner is rubbing against the outer more than before we added tension through the barrel adjuster. Adding tension by screwing out the barrel adjuster indeed lengthens the outer slightly. How can that affect the inner unless the outer then rubs against it more?
If the gear cables were completely straight, tightening the barrel adjuster would introduce a slight kink in the outer (wouldn’t it - both have anchored fixed end points?). That’d then rub against the inner. How else can you place the inner under more tension, if its length is fixed and its anchor points not moving? If I held a wire out in front of you and said make it tighter but you can’t touch my hands, you’d have to pull on the wire, right?
Interested to hear your thoughts!
where will i find front one? how to pull through the frame?
What are the signs that you need to change the cable?
Is it when you experience shifting problems, up and down the cassette, and adjusting the barrel adjuster doesn't really help?
Thanks.
Those symptoms can also mean your rear derailleur hanger isn't aligned.
Try pulling the cable manually (after releasing the cable pinch bolt) and feel if it's rough or gummy.
I got Di2 and still watched this video, clearly I need a life...
Can you revisit wheel balancing. Ganna's TT Pinarello was way out of balance in the recent GCN video.... yet it is clearly a fast machine. How about another marginal gain. Time for a "GCN does science" I reckon.
how to apply as your bike mechanic i am interested
My two year old 9IOO shifter cable snapped under 35OO miles. Odd.
I can’t remove the cable completely, it looks like it’s hitting the plastic housing over it? What the heck is this, it’s shimano ultegra 2021, I have the round end pushing on something and can’t get the cable out help
🙏🏽✌🏽
#askgcn when r u coming to India
You forgot to pre stretch the cable. 😀
Easy to do, but harder to find and buy a quality cable 🤔😓😰
Tried to do this on my Di2 Ultegra. It didn´t work!
Is that a snake bite?
Can you replace cables on a huffy next Please
not if grx
Campagnolo can't even use the same cable nub as everybody else. These quirky incompatibilities will be the death of Campag, sooner or later.
Road bike plzz gift me my bday hehe 😅
first
cables are for peasants though