Excellent video! I never knew how to size the chain without the old chain as a reference. My only comment is: With that much chain wear on the old chain, I would expect the cassette teeth to be worn as well. This would cause even the new chain to shift badly until a new cassette was also added. This has happened to me, so now I tend to change the chain and the cassette at the same time. It IS possible to avoid having to change the cassette every time by using the chain wear tool to tell you just when the chain has worn only minimally, but not so far as to have worn the cassette too.
@@RunBikeMike and .... I'm an mechanical engineer by profession and a part time (charity) bike mechanic (certified). I was trying to explain to a friend over the phone "how to" and decided to find a you tube video to send him instead. Found this and again, most excellent! Berm Peak and Park Tool watch out!
looking to go from 42T x11-42T (gravel) to 36T x11-36(CX) is there a way of calcluating how much to reduce the chain by so i can use 11-36 & 11-42 on rear anytime or is it possible?
@3:54 you didn't explain how tight to pull the chain when aligning it with the master link...it appears to have a bit of slack, but how much slack is ideal? The amount of slack can affect the length..?
I had this same idea with my new chain… line them up and just see the original length. But I don’t think the original length will fit because I bought a brand new derailleur which has bigger cogs which look like they have more teeth. Your thoughts?
Your chain length should be the same or very close. I would add two extra link before cutting it to the original size. Then put the chain on and see if it looks sized correctly. If it looks two big the go down one. And repeat until it looks correct or is at the original chain length.
My full proof way is the math method: Measure the distance from the dropout to the center point of the bottom bracket and multiply by 2. Next divide the number of teeth on your largest chainring by 4. Next divide the number of teeth on the largest cassette gear. By 4. Total the sum of all three, and that’s the ideal chain length.
When I did this I ended up with too short a chain. Deruiller pulled in a straight line when I'm in my biggest cog in back. No idea what's goin on there.
Thanks for the vid. I must tell you as someone who watches a lot of these, the background "music" is not only not needed, it is quite annoying. Just trying to be helpful.
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Dude your content quality is boomin! 🤘🏼
Thanks!! I really appreciate you saying that.
Best video on this I’ve seen so helpful & without any unnecessary commentary
Way better explanation on sizing a new chain than most You-tube vids. Thanks, mate👍
Excellent video! I never knew how to size the chain without the old chain as a reference. My only comment is: With that much chain wear on the old chain, I would expect the cassette teeth to be worn as well. This would cause even the new chain to shift badly until a new cassette was also added. This has happened to me, so now I tend to change the chain and the cassette at the same time. It IS possible to avoid having to change the cassette every time by using the chain wear tool to tell you just when the chain has worn only minimally, but not so far as to have worn the cassette too.
Great video thanks! Would this apply to a full suspension MTB too?
Thank you for your Help.😊
Thanks for making it simple!
Amazing simple explanation
Most excellent, short and to the point, video. Park Tool could not do a better job! -Larry
Wow thank you 🤙🏻
@@RunBikeMike and .... I'm an mechanical engineer by profession and a part time (charity) bike mechanic (certified). I was trying to explain to a friend over the phone "how to" and decided to find a you tube video to send him instead. Found this and again, most excellent! Berm Peak and Park Tool watch out!
Super awesome thanks for the tutorial. Now I can sizing my new chain without the old one because I replace all the drivetrain. Super thanks man
thumbs up, thanks for the tips.
The only actual non spam video or anxient bike chain guide. I have a shimano not a campagnola
looking to go from 42T x11-42T (gravel) to 36T x11-36(CX) is there a way of calcluating how much to reduce the chain by so i can use 11-36 & 11-42 on rear anytime or is it possible?
Very good clear video. I learned a lot. Thanks dude.
Good show! How do you know what kind of chain to buy to replace the old chain?
Buy the chain according to the number of speeds in the cassette
Perfect timing on this video lol thanks
Excellent video straight forward cheers 🍻
@3:54 you didn't explain how tight to pull the chain when aligning it with the master link...it appears to have a bit of slack, but how much slack is ideal? The amount of slack can affect the length..?
Good quality content
Is it okay to use 128 links where I actually used 120 links chain? Why should I not use extra links ? What will happen if I use more links ?
thanks
came for the chain sizing, stayed for the 80s soundtrack!
How many links did it cone from a new chain?
Hi are these methods works with oval chainring as well?
I had this same idea with my new chain… line them up and just see the original length. But I don’t think the original length will fit because I bought a brand new derailleur which has bigger cogs which look like they have more teeth. Your thoughts?
Your chain length should be the same or very close. I would add two extra link before cutting it to the original size. Then put the chain on and see if it looks sized correctly. If it looks two big the go down one. And repeat until it looks correct or is at the original chain length.
My full proof way is the math method:
Measure the distance from the dropout to the center point of the bottom bracket and multiply by 2. Next divide the number of teeth on your largest chainring by 4. Next divide the number of teeth on the largest cassette gear. By 4. Total the sum of all three, and that’s the ideal chain length.
Like the connection on the chain stay. Or the mech attachment point ?
You should be immersion waxing for chain lube. You could get 3x cassette, chain, and chainring life. No joke.
good stuff
Nice!
When I did this I ended up with too short a chain. Deruiller pulled in a straight line when I'm in my biggest cog in back. No idea what's goin on there.
What is the downside to a chain that is stretched a bit?
It can give you bad shifting results
Good deal.
You didn't mention if the chain was directional,
I’ve always laid my old next to my new…. I had no idea there was an independent way of knowing the right length. Is that a standard for MTB also?
For all except campy, and single speed.
Never lube a new chain, that factory grease is amazing, adding mineral/dry or synthetic oil washes that OEM stuff out.
no it isn't, it's sole purpose is just to prevent rust when the chain is sitting on the store shelf.
@@fraserthomson5766 tell me u haven't a clue what ur talking about without telling me u haven't got a clue what ur talking about 💯👍
@@HughJohn-s1n Woopty doo Mr Professor, tell me you lube your brand new chain without telling me you lube your brand new chain.
Thanks for the vid. I must tell you as someone who watches a lot of these, the background "music" is not only not needed, it is quite annoying. Just trying to be helpful.
Ok thx
I must say you might have attention deficit disorder, i barely noticed the music, thanks for the video @RunBikeMike !
Why would you put lub on a new chain, the oils from the factory should be good anuff!
Thxs for letting everyone know u haven't got a clue what ur talking about 💯👍
@@HughJohn-s1n whatever.
69th like. Nice
2nd methods wont work i can tell you that, it's way too short once you wrap it around the derailleur
Nothing new here, just copies existing chain