Quad 4 How to properly remove timing chain and gears
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มิ.ย. 2017
- I show you how to safely remove the timing chain and gears on GM's Quad 4 2.3L/Twin Cam 2.4L motors. Recorded with my Samsung smart phone
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I'm working on this motor in a 98 Pontiac Grand am. P0301 obd code. The plug tube was swimming in oil. In order to replace the valvetrain gaskets, do I have to remove the timing chain and sprockets?
Unfortunately you do. Just got done replacing the cylinder head on my cavalier with the ld9. All that stuff is in the way. However, don't overlook the fact that the oil temp. sensor in the same area goes bad and leaks oil everywhere as well. Had that problem at one time, unless you're sure it's coming from the gaskets in the cam housings.
I did this in the car. Kinda hard to do. Torque on can housing bolts are hard to find. I pulled the threads on one bolt. 16 ftlbs and 90 degrees is to tight
That is common. Nowadays, I simply torque the housings to 15 ft lbs.
Are there bolts in back of the cam gears attached to the valve covers? If so can they be removed thru the access holes in the gear? Or do the gears need to be removed?
The gears need to be removed.
@@LD9user can i do this with engine in car or do i have to pull engine
@@steveearl2291 it can be done in the car. I pull the passenger side motor mounts. That allows me to use a Jack under the motor to move the motor up and down a bit which gives easier access to some of the bolts. Good luck.
Great videos ! Race car ok how do you deal with the oil wanting to go to the right side and starving the engine in the turns. Just lost the engine in my 2000 Cavie 2.4 quad 4 Thank you for all the great videos
I'll be adding a baffle to the oil pan to help with oil control.
the oil pump on the 2.4 turns something like 2.2 times for each crank revolution. When racing most of the time the engine is at 6400 rpm the oil pump is turning at 14080 rpm and some say it foams the oil and causes engine failure. They recommend using the 2.3 pump pan baffles the entire set up. the 2.3 pump turns 1.4 times the crank at 6400 the pump is at 8,960. Have a lot of money in the car and am trying to spend carefully. There is some machine work I am sure you or I could do our-self. Thought about a baffle at the end of the balancer's down to the pan bottom just under the main bearing with a couple 1/2 inch return holes. If you have raced these engines I would feel your opinion would be of great help I am ready to start putting it together and back in the car. Thank you for the great videos.
Thanks for the post. Well, the 2.4 pump spins exactly 2 times the engine speed. I've raced it to 7200 for about a dozen races and everything seemed decent on teardown. I've done the swap you speak of. It's tricky but doable. Actually ruined one block so my advice is to do the conversion before you have any other machine work done.
I know guys who blow 2.4's up after just one night and finally give up on them. There's a simple thing I do before running the 2.4 with the balance shafts: 1. I pull the crank and polish it. 2. Rebuild with new rod and main bearings. 3. Set the oil pump drive chain lash to factory specs. Install new timing chain. If you do those 4 things, the 2.4 will live quite well. I've ran those motors pulled straight from the junk yard with 150,000+ miles on them and haven't blown one up yet (after doing those 4 things). Remember...I said "Yet." lol
Thank you will do as you did. What you think of my baffle idea?
What make and model???
Chevy Cavalier
What stinks is I have an oil leak on the exhaust cam tower and have to pull it this far apart to change the gasket.
I know! All...those...bolts! lol If you search my channel, there's a vid on how to avoid gasket leaks on these motors.
That's what I'm dealing with now