@@stanroberts229 yeah man, and calm, I'm digging bikes out of the woods trying to build a steel gravel bike and it's rough. I've threw every thing down for a few days. Some folks have what it takes, I've got to walk away and came back later.
Vintage threaded headset are simple to install and easy to maintain with the correct tools. Ahead designed headset may not have any easy solutions to fix, much like those press fit BBs with poor engineered tolerances, where you can't take a Campagolo headset cutter to the frame. th-cam.com/video/jfW_iimqsTk/w-d-xo.html
more of this please!!! Only been cycling 2 years and want to be capable of doing my own maintenance beyond drivetrain cleaning and fixing punctures, but to do that I feel like I need a base knowledge of how the puzzle fits together
Because my "about 1972" (serial number starting with "2") Peugeot (27 x 1 1/4) bike has a "threaded headset," I'm going to vote for the "threaded headset" as my favorite type! TY! for a wonderful video re explanations of the two varieties of headsets! Have a great day!
I bought a new bike and I tightened the headset like a mofo and the front fork is barely rotation. I had no idea how headsets worked, until I watched this video. Now I have to go back to my garage and loosen that dammed headset before I have my first ride with the bike. Thanks for the video, I subscribed and I'm hoping to learn everything about bikes in the next couple of years.
As to what to show next, though I’m sure BBS will win the requests, I would love to see a cut away frame so we could see how many ways internal cabling is run.
I'd like to see more about shifting and derailleurs if possible, I'm just getting into road cycling... been on fixed gear's for awhile so I'd like to know all I can! Cheers and thanks
Great video man. You're clear and concise with extra information as and when it's needed. As someone with barely any knowledge in bike mechanics I was able to reassemble an old bike 👌 super helpful
A great feature Jon, love a deep-dive into the tech world. The bicycle is a seemingly simple machine but without these simple and few parts being understood and fitted correctly then there lies trouble. Not sure if there is a feature in it but would you consider demonstrating how to conduct checks and assessments of bikes...? How to detect cable drag, bearing wear, identifying the dreaded creak and squeak origins maybe? More thorough than a pre-ride check...also how about historical features on bike manufacturers...BSA and Orbea being gun makers back in the day I believe. Thanks, keep them coming and the rubber side down...
You often have to re-check the headset bearing adjustment after installing the stem since the expansion wedge can affect the threaded cup a slight bit.
That what you said about the 0.25mm washer...i took my bike to a shop and they changed the height for the stem after a bike fit. I'm pretty sure they didn't put this washer in. I've since put one in but it's not thin enough. Without it the bearing don't compress properly leaving headset loose. To the point now I have that so much issues with it coming loose or not feeling right that I might just buy a different headset
Thank you Integrated headset starts at 10:55. I got a brand new frame, totally naked. I need to buy a headset - I see there are so many types, probably the upper and lower diameter are key parameters but I see several other parameters I can chose from --> confused.
I have two race bikes and yes they are just like the ones you have done Jon many thanks it does take longer to do threaded headsets but I needed to change them over twenty yeas ago and you don’t forget how to do them. One question where was your GLOVES just saying great vid
please make a video about every detail assembly (like this one) for every component of the bike! I really want to completely disassemble my bike and put it back together but I don't have any tools :( Love this video BTW :)
The locknut of the threaded headset usually incorporated an O ring, which sealed against the stem, preventing water ingress. It's therefore easier to install the stem before tightening the locknut - otherwise pushing the wedge of the stem thru the O ring could damage it.
My old bike that I used to rack on back in the day had the old style with a Campy headset. My new one has an A headset...much easier to setup and adjust the A and to me it makes much more sense to bolt the stem directly to the steerer.
An excellent way to feel even the smallest play inside the headset: is to work the front brake and than push the hole bike a little back and forth. You will feel a tiny bit of movement until your headst is adjusted perfectly.
Fun fact: Specialized tapered headset bearings are nowhere to be found in Russia, just ordered them from England. Shoutout to the Edge Sports UK store!
Guess I am a little late to the party. I own a 40+ year-old Gitane Pro with all first-gen Dura Ace, and I had never heard of the threadless until today. I had wondered why the headsets on newer bikes looked different; now I know. Looks like a nice system, but there is absolutely no adjustment that I can see. I know the current trend is to slam the bars as low as possible to be more aero, but some of us are past that point. Call me old school, but I will stick with a threaded. Great video, though!
what a beautiful simoncini bike! I hope you still have it! what year is it and how much does it weigh? what grease are you using in the video? very well done video!
Sorry to be dumb about this, 14:12 was there a bit of video missing - the upper bearing being fitted? Was the thing with a split in it the compression ring, or is that also the bearing? I really appreciate these videos, but if they are for the likes of me, please include everything - e.g. the tool that you used to fit the traditional bottom ring, seeing you hit that (so we can glean what sort of force is needed) and with what type of hammer, what do you stand the forks on while you hit down on them - these little things really would help. Last questions: Does Chris have his brakes the other way round (you're holding the left brake to check for rocking)? and (novice question) is it always ok to remove the top cap (to check for the gap you mentioned) or is there some risk of the bung coming loose? Thanks for these videos.
Using a threaded headset means that you can use a quill stem where the handle bar height can be adjusted infinitely for the perfect drop position height without affecting the headset pre load and the need to use spacers. If the ahead stem is slammed with the steerer tube cut down for safety you cannot raise the handlebars if required in the future. And no ahead stem comes close to the classic look of a Cinelli XA quill stem.
At least with threadless, you can adjust it with allen key instead of two big spanners. Also, threadless stems don't bulge the steerer like quill stems do, which is also exacerbated by having to put grease on the quill in order to prevent seizing. And that's because water and sweaty can-and will- easily make its way in the gap between the steerer and quill. watch?v=Dy44e5J9xsw watch?v=0GRbdnTRH-4 watch?v=8b4t42wiJpQ watch?v=knEvRhM-g4Q watch?v=7GvN7w386U0
final adjustments of a traditional headset should be done after installing the quill stem as the binder bolt/wedge slightly distorts the steerer tube affecting the adjustment slightly
the slight bulging of the quill wedge and hence the steerer tube effectively shortens the length of the tube between bearings , not much but it can change the carefully set bearing preload.
2:26 that dust seal broke when I just installed a new fork on my bike. Is that absolutely necessary even though the bike originally came with it? I would like to buy it, but not sure if they sell just that part.
Lovely and succinct but could have done with a couple more closeup on crucial ball race bits. Still not sure which way up they should be as he appeared to put top one on the other way from what I was expecting after seeing how he did bottom one. I thought they would be opposite - two seconds more explanation would have done the trick. Hopefully watching that bit again will sort it out.
This is going to turn into Jon Canning's Bike Overhaul Adventures! If it's not, I would pay to watch it, we'll also learn how many bikes JC has hidden from the better half :D
Amd..., when the threaded fitting in a carbon crankarm leaves the crankarm and is "welded" to the pedalaxle, how to get it of the pedal WITHOUT ruining it ???
@@JonCannings yes thanks. Its been soaking in penetrant for 3 days, its even been cooled down for 24 hours as well (the hole pedal + attached threaded insert (that should have stayed inside the crankarm)). Pedals was fastened some years ago by a friend (its he's bike), and we wanted to change to different pedals. Problem is how not to destroy the outside threads on the insert, when unscruwing/removing it from the pedal...
I recently lowered my stem by moving four 5mm spacers from below the stem to above (haven't yet cut the fork) and for this reason the top cap tightens above the four spacers (as opposed to above the stem) just not sure if this will cause play in the whole assembly.
Hi Arman, 20mm is a relatively tall stack on top of the stem, but the assembly is designed to work with spacers above the stem as long as there are no 'free floating' spacers that aren't constrained by the fork then this is fine. Ideally you should cut the forks once you have the correct fit though!
how are you going to line up the bar and stem from sitting off at such an angle? lol… i always have to look right over mine and then ride it afterwards to check and adjust
"and now you just put on some greasy fingerprints on Opie's bike so that he sees what he gets from lending it to me ..." :D just kidding :-) nice video, Jon! thanks for the nice explanation and inside-view
I've been advised that if you slam your stem, you want to always leave 5-10 mm of spacers on top of the stem but Chris's bike's steerer is flush with his stem. Is there a reason his can go flush and others can't? Thanks
Hi YakaZoko, I'm English and we usually have the rear on the left! Maybe it's because it's a Spanish Orbea and he hasn't switched the brakes or he got used to it when a pro rider...who knows?
@@chasc2389 I misunderstood your question, but his bike seems to have the front brake on the left lever, just like - I'm pretty sure about - almost everybody else on Earth but english people and "english influenced people" - such as japaneses, australians, etc. -. ^^
Ok so you greased the headset cups when pressing them in, what's the hive mind opinion on this, I've heard and done both (grease vs dry) and not convinced either is correct.
Depends on how wet your riding conditions are and if you feel anything off in the front end. After a many very wet rides, dirt and water gets into the bearings and bottom race. It can feel rough, get a creaking sound, or even get some play. Good to clean it all out and a fresh coat of grease.
I was a mechanic back in the day. When the A-headset came out I remember feeling like it was the greatest invention since the bicycle itself 😀
Awesome as always!
Jon's explanation is technical, but easy to understand. Hats off to Jon.
Well I didn't know working on a vintage headset could be done without using bad language😀.
Derek Smith he really knows what he is doing!
@@stanroberts229 yeah man, and calm, I'm digging bikes out of the woods trying to build a steel gravel bike and it's rough. I've threw every thing down for a few days. Some folks have what it takes, I've got to walk away and came back later.
Vintage threaded headset are simple to install and easy to maintain with the correct tools.
Ahead designed headset may not have any easy solutions to fix, much like those press fit BBs with poor engineered tolerances, where you can't take a Campagolo headset cutter to the frame.
th-cam.com/video/jfW_iimqsTk/w-d-xo.html
The magic of editing
Best visual explanation of the differences between threaded and threadless I’ve seen so far.
more of this please!!! Only been cycling 2 years and want to be capable of doing my own maintenance beyond drivetrain cleaning and fixing punctures, but to do that I feel like I need a base knowledge of how the puzzle fits together
Because my "about 1972" (serial number starting with "2") Peugeot (27 x 1 1/4) bike has a "threaded headset," I'm going to vote for the "threaded headset" as my favorite type! TY! for a wonderful video re explanations of the two varieties of headsets! Have a great day!
Yes Jon, an hour long episode for Bottom Brackets, it's inevitable
I would watch it
That old track bike is 👌
This is the best vid I’ve seen on installing threaded headsets. Really appreciate the beginning when you go through the different parts. Thank youuuuu
I bought a new bike and I tightened the headset like a mofo and the front fork is barely rotation. I had no idea how headsets worked, until I watched this video. Now I have to go back to my garage and loosen that dammed headset before I have my first ride with the bike. Thanks for the video, I subscribed and I'm hoping to learn everything about bikes in the next couple of years.
As to what to show next, though I’m sure BBS will win the requests, I would love to see a cut away frame so we could see how many ways internal cabling is run.
This is the best series ever
I'd like to see more about shifting and derailleurs if possible, I'm just getting into road cycling... been on fixed gear's for awhile so I'd like to know all I can! Cheers and thanks
Great video man. You're clear and concise with extra information as and when it's needed. As someone with barely any knowledge in bike mechanics I was able to reassemble an old bike 👌 super helpful
Fantastic video! Threaded vs threadless, 20 minutes vs 5. Of course like you, I have both in my array of bikes.
Michael Albany No thanks it's enough with durianruders disc vs rim fiasco
@@glennoc8585 That is the fun! Having multiple options and lots to play with and get techie over!
Top tech headset tour... much appreciated. Very clear.
next time can you talk about differences in bottom bracket? how many spacers and different standarts??
That would be a season or 5
well, si did do a video on bottom brackets.....but i would rather have one with jon explaining it
The first bike brought back memories from the 70's and 80's.
Have done that job a lot of times ☺
And was about 12 years old when I startet...
A great feature Jon, love a deep-dive into the tech world. The bicycle is a seemingly simple machine but without these simple and few parts being understood and fitted correctly then there lies trouble. Not sure if there is a feature in it but would you consider demonstrating how to conduct checks and assessments of bikes...? How to detect cable drag, bearing wear, identifying the dreaded creak and squeak origins maybe? More thorough than a pre-ride check...also how about historical features on bike manufacturers...BSA and Orbea being gun makers back in the day I believe. Thanks, keep them coming and the rubber side down...
Cable drag! Now that's a real hate of mine.
Good video and explanation. Bottom brackets next please 👍
Exact 20 minute video. So pleasing.
I would like you to explain cable adjustments for brakes and shifters. Thank you for all you do on the channel. Ride, Tech to the level of your smile.
Thanks jon for your answer
This type of content I want more. Bring back also maintenance monday and more indoor training videos!!!
Thanks Vesi, noted!
Finally! Now I know what those micro-spacers/washers are for!
You often have to re-check the headset bearing adjustment after installing the stem since the expansion wedge can affect the threaded cup a slight bit.
That what you said about the 0.25mm washer...i took my bike to a shop and they changed the height for the stem after a bike fit. I'm pretty sure they didn't put this washer in. I've since put one in but it's not thin enough. Without it the bearing don't compress properly leaving headset loose. To the point now I have that so much issues with it coming loose or not feeling right that I might just buy a different headset
if Chris Opie is anything like me he'll never feel the same about his steering again! That Orbea is a gorgeous bike.
This was an exceptionally informative video. Thank you very much.
Well done. Thank you for the clear explanation of the different headset systems.
Nice video. Thanks for the quality and detailed education.
6:05 said bearings most visible side down, then put them on the other way up. Am I missing something?
Exactly, the most visible side of the bearings assembly is certainly placed upwards, not downwards in this video! 😲
Thx Jon, great explanation. 👍
I like them both!
Thank you
Integrated headset starts at 10:55. I got a brand new frame, totally naked. I need to buy a headset - I see there are so many types, probably the upper and lower diameter are key parameters but I see several other parameters I can chose from --> confused.
Great video. Thank you, especially the instruction come with threaded and threadless headset/fork
I have two race bikes and yes they are just like the ones you have done Jon many thanks it does take longer to do threaded headsets but I needed to change them over twenty yeas ago and you don’t forget how to do them. One question where was your GLOVES just saying great vid
Great video Jon. ..
I'm in the process of restoring a 1990's bianchi. road bike and this video is very helpful. ... best regards. Rudy
Ooft, make sure you let us know how you get on with it!
Great videos Jon! How about gear shifters (STI) next?
what a nice frame. A lil bit to big for me, but a good lookin track frame.
1:52 got to love Raleigh's proprietary 26tpi standards for everything
please make a video about every detail assembly (like this one) for every component of the bike! I really want to completely disassemble my bike and put it back together but I don't have any tools :( Love this video BTW :)
Most enlightening, thanks JonnyTech!
Fantastic explanation....thanks!
Thank you for this video!!!!! So helpful. Just swapped out my 1989 threaded giant neutra
The locknut of the threaded headset usually incorporated an O ring, which sealed against the stem, preventing water ingress. It's therefore easier to install the stem before tightening the locknut - otherwise pushing the wedge of the stem thru the O ring could damage it.
Woow! Awesome steel vintage you got there! Maybe doing an episode on it?
My old bike that I used to rack on back in the day had the old style with a Campy headset. My new one has an A headset...much easier to setup and adjust the A and to me it makes much more sense to bolt the stem directly to the steerer.
An excellent way to feel even the smallest play inside the headset: is to work the front brake and than push the hole bike a little back and forth. You will feel a tiny bit of movement until your headst is adjusted perfectly.
Fun fact: Specialized tapered headset bearings are nowhere to be found in Russia, just ordered them from England. Shoutout to the Edge Sports UK store!
Guess I am a little late to the party. I own a 40+ year-old Gitane Pro with all first-gen Dura Ace, and I had never heard of the threadless until today. I had wondered why the headsets on newer bikes looked different; now I know. Looks like a nice system, but there is absolutely no adjustment that I can see. I know the current trend is to slam the bars as low as possible to be more aero, but some of us are past that point. Call me old school, but I will stick with a threaded. Great video, though!
That Simoncini is a lovely frame and fork...I would love to see it built-up!How about covering l'Eroica with it?...
what a beautiful simoncini bike! I hope you still have it! what year is it and how much does it weigh?
what grease are you using in the video? very well done video!
Sorry to be dumb about this, 14:12 was there a bit of video missing - the upper bearing being fitted? Was the thing with a split in it the compression ring, or is that also the bearing? I really appreciate these videos, but if they are for the likes of me, please include everything - e.g. the tool that you used to fit the traditional bottom ring, seeing you hit that (so we can glean what sort of force is needed) and with what type of hammer, what do you stand the forks on while you hit down on them - these little things really would help.
Last questions: Does Chris have his brakes the other way round (you're holding the left brake to check for rocking)? and (novice question) is it always ok to remove the top cap (to check for the gap you mentioned) or is there some risk of the bung coming loose? Thanks for these videos.
Great closeups of Jon's grubby little hands.
Very helpful. Thanks
Someone get Jon a rag to wipe the grease off his hands next time. Great video!
Please explain STI leavers. Thanks.
They have a video on that I think by Si Richardson.
Try looking up "How to use road bike levers.
zooming in whilst assembling the different parts would be very helpfull.
can you make a video on what specs should I be looking for if I were to replace a steel fork to a carbon fork on road bikes?
Aaah, the starfangled nut. Not missed.
Great video thanks!
Using a threaded headset means that you can use a quill stem where the handle bar height can be adjusted infinitely for the perfect drop position height without affecting the headset pre load and the need to use spacers. If the ahead stem is slammed with the steerer tube cut down for safety you cannot raise the handlebars if required in the future. And no ahead stem comes close to the classic look of a Cinelli XA quill stem.
At least with threadless, you can adjust it with allen key instead of two big spanners. Also, threadless stems don't bulge the steerer like quill stems do, which is also exacerbated by having to put grease on the quill in order to prevent seizing. And that's because water and sweaty can-and will- easily make its way in the gap between the steerer and quill.
watch?v=Dy44e5J9xsw
watch?v=0GRbdnTRH-4
watch?v=8b4t42wiJpQ
watch?v=knEvRhM-g4Q
watch?v=7GvN7w386U0
final adjustments of a traditional headset should be done after installing the quill stem as the binder bolt/wedge slightly distorts the steerer tube affecting the adjustment slightly
the slight bulging of the quill wedge and hence the steerer tube effectively shortens the length of the tube between bearings , not much but it can change the carefully set bearing preload.
2:26 that dust seal broke when I just installed a new fork on my bike. Is that absolutely necessary even though the bike originally came with it? I would like to buy it, but not sure if they sell just that part.
Lovely and succinct but could have done with a couple more closeup on crucial ball race bits. Still not sure which way up they should be as he appeared to put top one on the other way from what I was expecting after seeing how he did bottom one. I thought they would be opposite - two seconds more explanation would have done the trick. Hopefully watching that bit again will sort it out.
Hi. Brilliant show. Can you explain how bicycle GPS low jack works and is it worth to buy it. Thank you
Nice fixie, John!🤪
Are there any video tutorials on how to fully disassemble a road bike?
This is going to turn into Jon Canning's Bike Overhaul Adventures! If it's not, I would pay to watch it, we'll also learn how many bikes JC has hidden from the better half :D
No way. I don't want her to find out
What's he applying before he inserts the cups?
excellent video
how to service a bike with out a bike stand,gmbn got the stand today then ?
My front fork does nog have a crown race should i be worried? The shop says it's supposed to be like this on this fork
Great video! If the threaded steerer tube is alittle too long can you just cut it down alittle with a hacksaw so the headset fits on good? Thank you!
I love talking tech. What else would you like me to explain the inner workings of?!
STI and others shifting systems for road bikes, please! Also, tell what makes STI so expensive!
Tell about STI and other shifting systems, please!
STI shifting system should be next please.
Jon Cannings a diy version of aligning derailleurhangers
Please take apart a delta-brake and put it together again - again ;-)
Is it possible to do the threaded headset installation without that huge tool used to compress the cups into the frame?
Definitely threaded headsets 😁
Amd..., when the threaded fitting in a carbon crankarm leaves the crankarm and is "welded" to the pedalaxle, how to get it of the pedal WITHOUT ruining it ???
Always spray some penetration spray and leave for a while. And importantly, always grease or copper paste threads.
@@JonCannings yes thanks.
Its been soaking in penetrant for 3 days, its even been cooled down for 24 hours as well (the hole pedal + attached threaded insert (that should have stayed inside the crankarm)).
Pedals was fastened some years ago by a friend (its he's bike), and we wanted to change to different pedals.
Problem is how not to destroy the outside threads on the insert, when unscruwing/removing it from the pedal...
I recently lowered my stem by moving four 5mm spacers from below the stem to above (haven't yet cut the fork) and for this reason the top cap tightens above the four spacers (as opposed to above the stem) just not sure if this will cause play in the whole assembly.
Hi Arman, 20mm is a relatively tall stack on top of the stem, but the assembly is designed to work with spacers above the stem as long as there are no 'free floating' spacers that aren't constrained by the fork then this is fine. Ideally you should cut the forks once you have the correct fit though!
how are you going to line up the bar and stem from sitting off at such an angle? lol… i always have to look right over mine and then ride it afterwards to check and adjust
May I know the code for threadless headset.I want to put it in my road bike.
"and now you just put on some greasy fingerprints on Opie's bike so that he sees what he gets from lending it to me ..." :D
just kidding :-) nice video, Jon! thanks for the nice explanation and inside-view
THANK YOU
I've been advised that if you slam your stem, you want to always leave 5-10 mm of spacers on top of the stem but Chris's bike's steerer is flush with his stem. Is there a reason his can go flush and others can't? Thanks
Can you fit an ahead fork on an threaded Frame?
I always wondered what that funny looking tool with the little knob was for.
Presenting tech videos, it turns out.
😂
Most rame builders in the past tended to stick to one or two variations ss the reaming tools weren't cheap.
Love the supercheap bike on the wall
Has Chris O got his front brake on his left lever?
I think that this is because they're english, it's reversed as the way they drive on road ... ^^
Hi YakaZoko, I'm English and we usually have the rear on the left! Maybe it's because it's a Spanish Orbea and he hasn't switched the brakes or he got used to it when a pro rider...who knows?
@@chasc2389 I misunderstood your question, but his bike seems to have the front brake on the left lever, just like - I'm pretty sure about - almost everybody else on Earth but english people and "english influenced people" - such as japaneses, australians, etc. -. ^^
Jon, what is the recommended torque for the internal nut/expander in the carbon fork tube? thanks
What about Canyon type headsets? Are they any good? Considered buying their bike but reading some opinions over the internet made me curious...
Ok so you greased the headset cups when pressing them in, what's the hive mind opinion on this, I've heard and done both (grease vs dry) and not convinced either is correct.
How often do headset problems arise? In 40 years of mucking about with bikes I have never taken apart a headset or encountered a headset problem.
Depends on how wet your riding conditions are and if you feel anything off in the front end. After a many very wet rides, dirt and water gets into the bearings and bottom race. It can feel rough, get a creaking sound, or even get some play. Good to clean it all out and a fresh coat of grease.
My bike is missing the headset is a problem? I use it like that
Thanks bro
What about the proprietary Look and Time head sets ;)
Do I see a Mavic crank or is that how old cranksets looked
How do spacers fit into this?
Is the seat hight ajustable?