I'm in a home shop. My tip of the day for guys going and buying paint, is to take a piece of the car, wet sand it with 1500 grit ,then let the paint store "scan it as a solid" color to get the base. They can also compare it to the paint code and tell you how close it is. This is a good way to get that base coat as close as possible if you aren't the one mixing the paint. Love the videos thanks!
Hey Brian!, Can’t begin to thank you enough for all the support and help-5 years as a helper and two as a painter..And I use ALL Ur tips every day,From the panhandle
Brian, Thank you. I’ve learned sooooo much by watching your videos. Just did a 2 stage red candy color blend and it came out beautifully. Yes SLOOOOW reducer helps a lot and high temp clear hardner.
I’m relatively new and I don’t know how I could do this without you Brian. Actually spraying silver but some of this I see on this video seems very similar. I started chasing metallic that I sprayed too dry and I learned a valuable lesson about that. Lots of sanding because I had too much paint on the car and the sharp edges didn’t look right. Starting over. Also after watching a couple of times my dense self absorbed the tip about wearing gloves. 😅
I have to try that X pattern, great idea. I love how confident you are with laying down the clear. I usually would be tempted to walk the entire panel instead of doing 3 panels.
When you spray your base on the first two coats to get coverage you can spray with your gun pointing inward so that you are spraying your overspray into the wet area.. this will really cut down on the dry bedding! I have been doing this a lot more and then when I blend outward on the last coat I use wet bed like I have seen you do! Smooth as glass my man
Hi Brian, I'm just a DIY'er but I have once cleared over a dirty mark. The Gunman has a good tip for water-based cleaner, he uses 50/50 water and methylated spirits. I use it all the time now, followed up with Upol slow panel wipe and have had zero issues with fish-eyes or any other contamination. We all learn a lot from you, many thanks.
Also a great tip for Jobs like this if you are scared of dry overspray mask the blend areas spray the base over the door till its almost covered, then remove the masking last coat over the door and blend areas saves u 2 coats of blend on the panels less risk of creating dry areas. Then just finnish as video shows
It's great to learn your tips and tricks for better painting results. One I was taught was to use metal paint stir sticks instead of wood, because I was told the wood sticks can absorb a small amount of the tint(s), which can alter the color ever so slightly. Some metal sticks even have the common mixing ratios marked right on them. Thanks for all the videos!
I’m new to painting and I’m a DIYer, I started to clear one of my alloy wheels and a drop of clear leaked from my paint cup onto the wheel, I panicked and grabbed a paper towel an tried to wipe it off 🤦♂️ I should have left it alone to dry and sanded it back I knew this beforehand and still I done it, heart ruled my head then, caused me more sanding than just leaving it would have. I’ve definitely learned that lesson 😅
Definitely have ran the clear coat quite a few times. Especially starting out. What doesn’t help is when shops lack proper materials like shop towels instead of using microfiber rags, replacing sealer with mixing black and white paint cause they didn’t have sealer, cheap paint to save money, no gloves, tax rags and on top of all that….. no heat in the booth which is ridiculous but I’ve had to learn to adapt in really crappy situations in order for the jobs to look right. And sadly doesn’t even mater if it’s 15 degrees out and still no heat in the booth. Heat lamps is the sad option they give you for “heat”. I’ve been there and I really hate it.
Great job and tips as always Brian the only thing I now do different is I now mask off in your example the fender and rear door and put my initial coats of ground coat only on the front door, I have found in the past if I stack the ground coat on the already painted panles they can look a bit heavy with paint.
I was 2 toning a f350 platinum edition with black on the bottom recently and when I pulled my masking I tacked the whole dually flare and started to spray clear over the whole flare to lose the edge and didn't see some over spray that got on the white til I made a pass. It was a white pearl of course. Luckily I only put one coat on and was able to sand through the clear I put on and not the factory clear. Made me sick but saved it. Then re cleared it.
I was just doing a small white blend on a door today. I had to wipe it lightly with lacquer to remove smudges just as you did here :) This is something I do as well.
One of the biggest mistakes I made in the past was taping of the area and going all the way to he tape (on a fender ) . I also still having problems with getting trim to stick like it should. I hate taking it off for that reason. I didn't start out painting, I started out welding and thought that was all I would be doing.
I usually run the pearl from edge to edge. Sometimes stopping that pearl coat right in the middle of the door will cause issues. My very last coat of pearl I'll mix in speedokote color blender , make it more transparent and spray it edge to edge of your repair / paint area and lay it on wet like clear coat. Helps a lot and in my opinion makes for a even more seem less transition between the new pearls and the old ones. Have you ever tried this?
I have made every mistake known to man !!!,then repaired it ,a class of hard knocks is never thought of when you are young. 40 years of looking back ,you really reflect on many late nights of strong back ,weak mind lol !!!
Excellent work and great tips especially this pearl is the hardest blend. I definitely blended and cleared over a ruff edge. Complete mess up, total redo. Luckily I just caught your video on clearbase. Worked like magic.
The X really helps in the way that light hits the surface and reflects off. This was a required process for single stage metallics before two-stage became the industry standard. 🤓
My first VW metallic black (code 2T2T) on a new bonnet, with a new gun. Used too low a pressure and did not atomize well, heavy orange peel base. Had to wet sand the lot again with 400 and bumped the pressure up another few pounds. All good next coats of base. I generally try to paint wet on wet where possible these days.
Just found your channel and been going through your videos. Great info! Painted a 350 Econoline stretch van with a roller. Now I want to do a Rattle Csn paint job on my Chevy S10. You seem to be one of the best for backyard paint jobs. Now I hear you're a Florida Boy, guessing by your accent, probably Southeast Coast. I was raised in Ft. Lauderdale.
the day we dont make mistakes is the day after we retire, a really good video this one because you clearly explain even more than noemal how to get the job done right,weve all put extra paint on mind to try and solve an ISSUE
Yeah mate nice job, bit of a difference in panel edge to edge there at the end... white sealer really helps with that.. like a spectral grey 3. A fuzz on the blend panel edges where it meets new panel... fade out thinner in a can to soften sealer edge, then base as video. That's just how I do mine. Then you can panel off to right, because like you said the ground colour is what you see through to. So if you have sealer coverage on both edges meeting you can't go wrong. Unless your pearl coat is strong and changes the look alot...then you just mix at 3to 1 ratio pearl to base and put a nice coat over both your blend and your new door..then a coat or 2 of straite pearl . Love the vid mate! Cheers
Great video Brian, greetings from the UK. I did a similar job and depending how well the base covers, that front door is still a different colour to the adjacent panels so a white sealer over the blend panels will eliminate having to put loads of base to hide the difference, thats all I would change. but what you used covered well and avoided that problem
Brian can you address the causes of bubbles that pop up later months years? Can this be fixed or will it mean stripping a whole car? What causes bubbles? What’s the proper way to prevent them? Will epoxy primer prevent moisture or encapsulate missed rust pin holes? I want to paint my own car but don’t want to waste a ton of money. The project will take place over a long period of time unlike doing jobs start to finish in a paint shop. Thank you for sharing
Excellent Video as always. I notice that you do not use an Air Fed Mask. I thought they were recommended for paints with isocyanate in them. Appreciate a comment as I want to use 2K paint at home
Brian, THANK YOU for your great teaching. I just did my first paint job. Its pretty amazing! Im shocked that with a bit of know how, you can get solid results. Thanks so much for all you do. Ill post pics on the FB page soon once im accepted by moderator.
Brian, I have a 1988 Mercedes in a metallic brown that spent it's life in Las Vegas. The clear coat is missing from all horizontal surfaces. The base coat still has good adhesion and is not chalky. Can I feather the existing clear coat and reclear the existing finish or should I prime over the existing exposed base, reshoot the base color and reclear? Trying to do this on a budget. This is not a show car, but it is going to be a good weather fun car. It would be nice if it had a shine. It's a survivor. Also you should do a segment on going to the local farm supply store, buying a gallon of implement enamel, and painting a beater car with it. Many young budget drivers would appreciate that. I really enjoy your videos.
Another great video Brian I’ve just fitted a full vorsteiner bodykit to a 3 stage white mclaren with no colour listed in paint computers.apparently they don’t want anyone to know the colour.so I spectro the car and it started off as a Hyundai colour but spent nearly a day tinting etc to get basecoat bang on.then 2 coats of Pearl but like you say once your base is almost perfect it’s simple from there on :) great video and info here again buddy 👍👍👍
I paint mostly aircraft for a living. One thing I've done that's made a bigger difference than anything in the amount of dust and trash in my paint is that I now ground the surface I'm painting. I run a ground wire from any point on the vehicle to a good earth ground. Night and day difference.
You are definitely right about not touching it until it dries. You will just make it worse. There is an exception that in very few instances can work. You can use a loop of tape with the tails held between the thumb and forefinger, where you can gently dab at trash in the paint while it is still wet and sometimes be able to pull the trash out before it dries. Only the middle center part of the loop should gently contact the trash. It takes experience, I wouldn't recommend anyone without experience to even try it because you will almost always mess it up.
How much working time does paint usually have before it hardens in the gun (cup)? Like if you did multiple coats that each require 15 min of flash time, how long would it take until that paint clogs the gun and is unusable? Also, if you foresee that the paint in your gun not being enough to do the third coat or something, can you add more paint with reducer in the right ratio to that original mix? Or will that cause issues (like if you were adding more fiberglass resin and hardener to your current mix that you mixed 30 min ago)
Back in the day we did n't have panel wipe so we used thinnner and water on a clean rag then tag ragged it worked . Pearls are hard work but they push your ability as a painter ie blending etc . Great vid Brian 👌Jim uk🤛.
@@PaintSociety I try and keep up with the progress in materials etc that why i watch yours videos and others to up my game even at 63 you never stop learniing 👍
G’day. I’m about to repaint my Ford Laser. It has a fine metallic paint. I’ve painted it in parts using the correct made up aerosol paint because my daughter thought it would be a great idea to drive out in front of a tradies ute. Anyhow 😕. I was going to leave it at that, but the other day I sprayed it with a high pressure water gurney, and all these half inch circles appeared in the roof paint, where I hadn’t painted. I’d like to know what they could be, what to do about them, should I sand the roof back, or use a primer of some kind. Also, I was wondering how long you waited between painting the base and the clear. Some people say you should paint the clear more or less immediately, but that didn’t work for me, at least using the aerosols. Thanks.
Honestly I never struggled with white pearls but I’ve definitely messed up some charcoal greys. They just seemed to kick my ass with mottling and not blending. Using extra slow reducer and a proper drop coat resolved that issue for me
Recently painted a really pretty pearl blue fire truck. May be because I'm a production painter, but any time I have ever done a color with pearl, the pearl is mixed in with the base.
I was painting my KITT car and got to the clear coat step. I sanded down the drips in the clear.. and used a bucket with a sponge to wipe off the sanding dust. I kept dipping the sponge in the dirty water….not realizing I was contaminating the surface i was trying to clean with dirty water. I went to spray another coat of clear and afterwards… saw the dust now trapped under the clear. I walked away….. and after taking a break.. I came back the next day, sanded the whole car down to a smooth surface, i then used a hose to wash it down, then a clean rag, then lastly a tack rag.. I resprayed base and clear and got a much better result. Reevie’s Workshop
Over-reduce your tack coat with the proper temp reducer to ambient. Take the smoother, over- reduced tack coat to the absolute extremity of the blend. This thinner tack coat will dry fast and level the surface scratches. It also catches the majority of the dirt specs that the first coat always gets. Because it is so thin and dries fast, you can tack rag the dirt right off because it's not stuck in a full coat. Then apply normally reduced coats getting smaller in the repair area until covered. (I think you called that a reverse blend in a video) I call it a proper blend...
I seem to always have a problem with the paint looking textured do I need to thin it a little more so it goes on smoother also I really like watching your videos u r a true master of the game
Paint society how you deal when is a hot day ? Like florida sometimes hits 100f and the layer is hot? When you start painting and when you coming with the overlap the first one is already drying? That sucks
Hi Brian, I'm an apprentice prepper and would love to see some more tips and tricks on imporving and etc... or just videos based on prepping in the future!
LOOKING through your videos for a how to on a chrome delete and wasn’t able to find one. If there is one can you link it it now would you be able to make one? Thanks
Been there done that, a more of a problem is dust landing in your clear coat. You can't buff it out. It looks like crap.is there such a thing of white dust lol....
Lots of great tips TY..question.. What would you recommend for an inexpensive clear coat for a do-it-yourself With good results. I like glamor Clear but it's $660 a kit.. What is your thoughts on limpco clear coat
Doing a nice paint job involves strong work ethics and common sense. Things that are really lacking in todays society. Yes, also the knowledge of what not to do. I always enjoy wanting you because it’s easy to tell that you care about the quality of your job.
I seen you using your dv-1clear gun would you tell me what cap you like using? And also what clear did you use on this vehicle? And 1 last question what range do you usually have your psi at when using your dv-1 clear gun? As always best paint video's on you tube, keep up the good work!!!
Most difficult thing to do for us production painters is to be patient lol, but when dealing with tri-stage you gotta just leave the booth and go get a cup of coffee or something.
We learn from the best car painters, only one question. Maestro Pedro from scorpion paint, start apply the clear coat from the top to the bottom, see you apply from the bottom to the top.whats the correct process? And thanks to teach this videos to us .
I’m a production painter. I don’t edge any parts in for speed purposes. I do a few things to make sure that the panels match since I do blends separate from the new panels. For one, I have 7 of the 3m guns. So I’m always using the same gun with the same paint. I also have all 3 of the down draft paint booths set that the exact same air pressure. It’s critical to use the same gun, same paint, and same air pressure! Beyond that, I will seal the new part.. and then put sealer on the blend edge of the blend panel. By sealing the blended edge it ensures that the color coverage is the same! I am also always careful to shut the booth lights off and check with the sun gun on the blend panel.. that will tell me how many coats I need on the new panel to properly cover the sealer! Then finally I will do a drop coat.. the drop coat just makes sure that the blend and the new panel have the same metallic lay out! I do that because a lot of times I’ll have the new parts in a totally separate booth from the blend panels. If you are limited to one booth and wanted to try and use this method I would recommend doing the blends first cycle.. that way you can better tell how many coats you’ll have to put on the new panel!
You definitely are doing the job perfect and I’m jealous of your setup! I love that 3m gun. Thanks for the comments and the great tips you have shared here!
@@PaintSociety ahh man I’m not perfect at all but I have learned a lot from you and this is the only way I can give back to you.. thank you! I love the 3m gun.. I don’t clear with it but I do spray base and sealer.. and use them for any size project! I love that every week I can throw out the tips and start fresh! I have one prepper and together we are able to around 300 commission hours a week. It wouldn’t be possible with out amazing tools like the 3m guns, Uv primer, and the list goes on!
Good call on the sealer on the blend panel- I do that often aswell. wish I could edge in panels but not happening in my shop. The new 3M gun is legit. Alot of painters are hesitant b/c the old one wasn't really that good.
Thanks Brian - you have tape halfway up over the A pillar - I assume you have to make some effort to not have a line and to use blend spray...pls comment - appreciate all your knowledge
Me..bring me memories when I put until 5 layer pearl to make its look same.. Owh what I'm doing all this time is wrong.. But we'll.. No mistake.. There will no experience to learn.. By the way.. Don't overthinking.. It's just a paint...# N I loooovvve.. this motto..
I have been painting for 6 months now my question is when am painting my paint dont shine as most of the videos I have watched what am I doing wrong is the air flow higher then the paint some one help on that
I'm in a home shop. My tip of the day for guys going and buying paint, is to take a piece of the car, wet sand it with 1500 grit ,then let the paint store "scan it as a solid" color to get the base. They can also compare it to the paint code and tell you how close it is. This is a good way to get that base coat as close as possible if you aren't the one mixing the paint. Love the videos thanks!
You are the best paint teacher in the whole internet, Brian. Thanks so much for sharing all your knowledge with us
Great tips once again Brian! I've definitely cleared over a dirt smudge. You learn quickly when you have to repaint.
You only see it when you go to clear lol
Hey Brian!,
Can’t begin to thank you enough for all the support and help-5 years as a helper and two as a painter..And I use ALL Ur tips every day,From the panhandle
Nice video. I wish I could paint like that. I was on edge watching those coveralls nearly rubbing on the car!
Brian, Thank you. I’ve learned sooooo much by watching your videos. Just did a 2 stage red candy color blend and it came out beautifully. Yes SLOOOOW reducer helps a lot and high temp clear hardner.
I’m glad to hear your success !
I’m relatively new and I don’t know how I could do this without you Brian. Actually spraying silver but some of this I see on this video seems very similar. I started chasing metallic that I sprayed too dry and I learned a valuable lesson about that. Lots of sanding because I had too much paint on the car and the sharp edges didn’t look right. Starting over. Also after watching a couple of times my dense self absorbed the tip about wearing gloves. 😅
I have to try that X pattern, great idea. I love how confident you are with laying down the clear. I usually would be tempted to walk the entire panel instead of doing 3 panels.
Same, whenever I clear I walk the entire panel cause I’m prone to dripping clear lol.
When you spray your base on the first two coats to get coverage you can spray with your gun pointing inward so that you are spraying your overspray into the wet area.. this will really cut down on the dry bedding! I have been doing this a lot more and then when I blend outward on the last coat I use wet bed like I have seen you do! Smooth as glass my man
Hi Brian, I'm just a DIY'er but I have once cleared over a dirty mark. The Gunman has a good tip for water-based cleaner, he uses 50/50 water and methylated spirits. I use it all the time now, followed up with Upol slow panel wipe and have had zero issues with fish-eyes or any other contamination. We all learn a lot from you, many thanks.
I painted this exact color and car for my 1st tri-coat in my home garage 2 years ago. Took me 3x to get the color right. Still looks good today.
Also a great tip for Jobs like this if you are scared of dry overspray mask the blend areas spray the base over the door till its almost covered, then remove the masking last coat over the door and blend areas saves u 2 coats of blend on the panels less risk of creating dry areas. Then just finnish as video shows
Yes this a great tip !
0:38
Thanks for being my role model Brian.Because of you i won't quit.
South Africa first to the comments. Great show, can't wait to see more stuff from the home garage.
It's great to learn your tips and tricks for better painting results.
One I was taught was to use metal paint stir sticks instead of wood, because I was told the wood sticks can absorb a small amount of the tint(s), which can alter the color ever so slightly.
Some metal sticks even have the common mixing ratios marked right on them.
Thanks for all the videos!
yes, I switched to metal for this reason.
I’m new to painting and I’m a DIYer, I started to clear one of my alloy wheels and a drop of clear leaked from my paint cup onto the wheel, I panicked and grabbed a paper towel an tried to wipe it off 🤦♂️ I should have left it alone to dry and sanded it back I knew this beforehand and still I done it, heart ruled my head then, caused me more sanding than just leaving it would have. I’ve definitely learned that lesson 😅
would you br able to make a vid talking about the different types and uses of clearcoats like high solids, low VOC, Ect.
Definitely have ran the clear coat quite a few times. Especially starting out. What doesn’t help is when shops lack proper materials like shop towels instead of using microfiber rags, replacing sealer with mixing black and white paint cause they didn’t have sealer, cheap paint to save money, no gloves, tax rags and on top of all that….. no heat in the booth which is ridiculous but I’ve had to learn to adapt in really crappy situations in order for the jobs to look right. And sadly doesn’t even mater if it’s 15 degrees out and still no heat in the booth. Heat lamps is the sad option they give you for “heat”. I’ve been there and I really hate it.
Very true Brian patience is a virtue in painting.
Great job and tips as always Brian the only thing I now do different is I now mask off in your example the fender and rear door and put my initial coats of ground coat only on the front door, I have found in the past if I stack the ground coat on the already painted panles they can look a bit heavy with paint.
I was 2 toning a f350 platinum edition with black on the bottom recently and when I pulled my masking I tacked the whole dually flare and started to spray clear over the whole flare to lose the edge and didn't see some over spray that got on the white til I made a pass. It was a white pearl of course. Luckily I only put one coat on and was able to sand through the clear I put on and not the factory clear. Made me sick but saved it. Then re cleared it.
I’ve always had good luck with tri coats. But in the beginning silver gave me night terrors. 😂
Yeah ,I made most of the ones you mentioned. I rush to much between costs . I’ve learned to be patient and walk away for a few extra minutes.
Excellent teacher. Thanks for all your videos. In my home town all of this information is a big secret
I was just doing a small white blend on a door today. I had to wipe it lightly with lacquer to remove smudges just as you did here :) This is something I do as well.
One of the biggest mistakes I made in the past was taping of the area and going all the way to he tape (on a fender ) . I also still having problems with getting trim to stick like it should. I hate taking it off for that reason. I didn't start out painting, I started out welding and thought that was all I would be doing.
I usually run the pearl from edge to edge. Sometimes stopping that pearl coat right in the middle of the door will cause issues. My very last coat of pearl I'll mix in speedokote color blender , make it more transparent and spray it edge to edge of your repair / paint area and lay it on wet like clear coat. Helps a lot and in my opinion makes for a even more seem less transition between the new pearls and the old ones. Have you ever tried this?
I have made every mistake known to man !!!,then repaired it ,a class of hard knocks is never thought of when you are young. 40 years of looking back ,you really reflect on many late nights of strong back ,weak mind lol !!!
Excellent work and great tips especially this pearl is the hardest blend. I definitely blended and cleared over a ruff edge. Complete mess up, total redo. Luckily I just caught your video on clearbase. Worked like magic.
The X really helps in the way that light hits the surface and reflects off.
This was a required process for single stage metallics before two-stage became the industry standard. 🤓
I do bike frames n I can say that I've learned painting Metallics n Pearls from you. Thx a lot 👍
My first VW metallic black (code 2T2T) on a new bonnet, with a new gun. Used too low a pressure and did not atomize well, heavy orange peel base. Had to wet sand the lot again with 400 and bumped the pressure up another few pounds. All good next coats of base. I generally try to paint wet on wet where possible these days.
Just found your channel and been going through your videos. Great info! Painted a 350 Econoline stretch van with a roller. Now I want to do a Rattle Csn paint job on my Chevy S10. You seem to be one of the best for backyard paint jobs. Now I hear you're a Florida Boy, guessing by your accent, probably Southeast Coast. I was raised in Ft. Lauderdale.
Make yourself feel better. Been there done that. Great video. Appreciate it.
the day we dont make mistakes is the day after we retire, a really good video this one because you clearly explain even more than noemal how to get the job done right,weve all put extra paint on mind to try and solve an ISSUE
Brian, take some foam tape and roll it like a snail and stuff it in the door handle holes! Best fastest way to fill the void and it works great!
Thanks! If you look closely. I did this before I started painting
I see that now! Nice work!
Yeah mate nice job, bit of a difference in panel edge to edge there at the end... white sealer really helps with that.. like a spectral grey 3. A fuzz on the blend panel edges where it meets new panel... fade out thinner in a can to soften sealer edge, then base as video. That's just how I do mine. Then you can panel off to right, because like you said the ground colour is what you see through to. So if you have sealer coverage on both edges meeting you can't go wrong. Unless your pearl coat is strong and changes the look alot...then you just mix at 3to 1 ratio pearl to base and put a nice coat over both your blend and your new door..then a coat or 2 of straite pearl . Love the vid mate! Cheers
It’s all perfectly matched in person. The camera will do that. 😀
Good job. I have been expecting this for a long time
Hope you enjoyed it!
I like that addition of garage 👀. Same great content as always thank you Brian💪
Great video Brian, greetings from the UK. I did a similar job and depending how well the base covers, that front door is still a different colour to the adjacent panels so a white sealer over the blend panels will eliminate having to put loads of base to hide the difference, thats all I would change. but what you used covered well and avoided that problem
With the open door handles I take the foam tape and roll pieces to fit in them, keeps stuff out and and any dirt on the inside form blowing out.
Yup. I did the same. Just not in the beginning of the videos because I don’t like the foam tape to get soaked with cleaner.
Brian can you address the causes of bubbles that pop up later months years? Can this be fixed or will it mean stripping a whole car? What causes bubbles? What’s the proper way to prevent them?
Will epoxy primer prevent moisture or encapsulate missed rust pin holes?
I want to paint my own car but don’t want to waste a ton of money. The project will take place over a long period of time unlike doing jobs start to finish in a paint shop. Thank you for sharing
Excellent Video as always. I notice that you do not use an Air Fed Mask. I thought they were recommended for paints with isocyanate in them. Appreciate a comment as I want to use 2K paint at home
Brian, THANK YOU for your great teaching. I just did my first paint job. Its pretty amazing! Im shocked that with a bit of know how, you can get solid results. Thanks so much for all you do. Ill post pics on the FB page soon once im accepted by moderator.
Brian, I have a 1988 Mercedes in a metallic brown that spent it's life in Las Vegas. The clear coat is missing from all horizontal surfaces. The base coat still has good adhesion and is not chalky. Can I feather the existing clear coat and reclear the existing finish or should I prime over the existing exposed base, reshoot the base color and reclear? Trying to do this on a budget. This is not a show car, but it is going to be a good weather fun car. It would be nice if it had a shine. It's a survivor. Also you should do a segment on going to the local farm supply store, buying a gallon of implement enamel, and painting a beater car with it. Many young budget drivers would appreciate that. I really enjoy your videos.
Another great video Brian I’ve just fitted a full vorsteiner bodykit to a 3 stage white mclaren with no colour listed in paint computers.apparently they don’t want anyone to know the colour.so I spectro the car and it started off as a Hyundai colour but spent nearly a day tinting etc to get basecoat bang on.then 2 coats of Pearl but like you say once your base is almost perfect it’s simple from there on :) great video and info here again buddy 👍👍👍
I paint mostly aircraft for a living. One thing I've done that's made a bigger difference than anything in the amount of dust and trash in my paint is that I now ground the surface I'm painting. I run a ground wire from any point on the vehicle to a good earth ground. Night and day difference.
i like how you always show the finish product
You are definitely right about not touching it until it dries. You will just make it worse. There is an exception that in very few instances can work. You can use a loop of tape with the tails held between the thumb and forefinger, where you can gently dab at trash in the paint while it is still wet and sometimes be able to pull the trash out before it dries. Only the middle center part of the loop should gently contact the trash. It takes experience, I wouldn't recommend anyone without experience to even try it because you will almost always mess it up.
How much working time does paint usually have before it hardens in the gun (cup)? Like if you did multiple coats that each require 15 min of flash time, how long would it take until that paint clogs the gun and is unusable? Also, if you foresee that the paint in your gun not being enough to do the third coat or something, can you add more paint with reducer in the right ratio to that original mix? Or will that cause issues (like if you were adding more fiberglass resin and hardener to your current mix that you mixed 30 min ago)
Usually 45 min
Looking good. Can u show how u painting roof. Always have some imperfections. Thanx
Back in the day we did n't have panel wipe so we used thinnner and water on a clean rag then tag ragged it worked . Pearls are hard work but they push your ability as a painter ie blending etc . Great vid Brian 👌Jim uk🤛.
Thanks for that info. Man how have times changed
@@PaintSociety I try and keep up with the progress in materials etc that why i watch yours videos and others to up my game even at 63 you never stop learniing 👍
I really like your honesty and you are a real pro .
G’day. I’m about to repaint my Ford Laser. It has a fine metallic paint. I’ve painted it in parts using the correct made up aerosol paint because my daughter thought it would be a great idea to drive out in front of a tradies ute. Anyhow 😕. I was going to leave it at that, but the other day I sprayed it with a high pressure water gurney, and all these half inch circles appeared in the roof paint, where I hadn’t painted. I’d like to know what they could be, what to do about them, should I sand the roof back, or use a primer of some kind. Also, I was wondering how long you waited between painting the base and the clear. Some people say you should paint the clear more or less immediately, but that didn’t work for me, at least using the aerosols. Thanks.
Honestly I never struggled with white pearls but I’ve definitely messed up some charcoal greys. They just seemed to kick my ass with mottling and not blending. Using extra slow reducer and a proper drop coat resolved that issue for me
Recently painted a really pretty pearl blue fire truck. May be because I'm a production painter, but any time I have ever done a color with pearl, the pearl is mixed in with the base.
I learnt new trick about cleaning on my white gloss painting
I was painting my KITT car and got to the clear coat step. I sanded down the drips in the clear.. and used a bucket with a sponge to wipe off the sanding dust. I kept dipping the sponge in the dirty water….not realizing I was contaminating the surface i was trying to clean with dirty water. I went to spray another coat of clear and afterwards… saw the dust now trapped under the clear. I walked away….. and after taking a break.. I came back the next day, sanded the whole car down to a smooth surface, i then used a hose to wash it down, then a clean rag, then lastly a tack rag..
I resprayed base and clear and got a much better result.
Reevie’s Workshop
Murphy's Law Bud ... It's good for us 😊 to transcend the problem
What are some tips for getting the correct base color on a tri coat?
Over-reduce your tack coat with the proper temp reducer to ambient. Take the smoother, over- reduced tack coat to the absolute extremity of the blend. This thinner tack coat will dry fast and level the surface scratches. It also catches the majority of the dirt specs that the first coat always gets. Because it is so thin and dries fast, you can tack rag the dirt right off because it's not stuck in a full coat. Then apply normally reduced coats getting smaller in the repair area until covered. (I think you called that a reverse blend in a video) I call it a proper blend...
I seem to always have a problem with the paint looking textured do I need to thin it a little more so it goes on smoother also I really like watching your videos u r a true master of the game
Brian you are a pro expert
Does primer color matter when doing a non metallic bright white base?
Paint society how you deal when is a hot day ? Like florida sometimes hits 100f and the layer is hot? When you start painting and when you coming with the overlap the first one is already drying? That sucks
Extra slow for everything. Helps the paint come out smoother
“Tried” wiping off lil dirt in middle of clear with my tack rag only to add 4362 more dirt 🤦🏻♂️ of course it was pearl white too 😂
Hi Brian lots of great tips as always! Thank you very much
Just curious why no wet bed this time?
Thanks
Hi Brian, I'm an apprentice prepper and would love to see some more tips and tricks on imporving and etc... or just videos based on prepping in the future!
Tbf the best way to learn to prep is to start painting yourself if you make prep mistakes/halfass it you learn the hard way
Hi Brian , why you didnt use the wet bed on this one?
LOOKING through your videos for a how to on a chrome delete and wasn’t able to find one. If there is one can you link it it now would you be able to make one? Thanks
I don’t but in short. 80 grit. Epoxy primer. Then 2k primer and paint
Been there done that, a more of a problem is dust landing in your clear coat. You can't buff it out. It looks like crap.is there such a thing of white dust lol....
I hear a lot of painters like to use the base mixed with the Pearl to get the base as close to the original base as possible
Teck neaks for speed is one I have to deal with. any pointers
Lots of great tips TY..question.. What would you recommend for an inexpensive clear coat for a do-it-yourself With good results. I like glamor Clear but it's $660 a kit.. What is your thoughts on limpco clear coat
Doing a nice paint job involves strong work ethics and common sense. Things that are really lacking in todays society. Yes, also the knowledge of what not to do. I always enjoy wanting you because it’s easy to tell that you care about the quality of your job.
Hi Brian, forgot to ask you yesterday on the live, how long does a peal coat Last? Nice to know to clean white more than any other color.
what a great video! ❤
I seen you using your dv-1clear gun would you tell me what cap you like using? And also what clear did you use on this vehicle? And 1 last question what range do you usually have your psi at when using your dv-1 clear gun? As always best paint video's on you tube, keep up the good work!!!
I keep learning more and every time watch, great job 👏
I've made way worse mistakes learning in the beginning lol, ever had to sand a mayfly out of clear in the middle of a hood?
There is not only a dent, but there is also a missalignment between doors above the handle bar line
Hi Brian, where do you get those paint suits from?
Most difficult thing to do for us production painters is to be patient lol, but when dealing with tri-stage you gotta just leave the booth and go get a cup of coffee or something.
I like this perfect clear coat
Great Video Brian..Thanks...Can you tell me where you got that pump sprayer for cleaning solvent to wipe down the car?
Iwata pump Sprayer
We learn from the best car painters, only one question. Maestro Pedro from scorpion paint, start apply the clear coat from the top to the bottom, see you apply from the bottom to the top.whats the correct process? And thanks to teach this videos to us .
Any way u want if you do a good job
Beautiful 😍
Great tips
I’m a production painter. I don’t edge any parts in for speed purposes. I do a few things to make sure that the panels match since I do blends separate from the new panels. For one, I have 7 of the 3m guns. So I’m always using the same gun with the same paint. I also have all 3 of the down draft paint booths set that the exact same air pressure.
It’s critical to use the same gun, same paint, and same air pressure! Beyond that, I will seal the new part.. and then put sealer on the blend edge of the blend panel. By sealing the blended edge it ensures that the color coverage is the same! I am also always careful to shut the booth lights off and check with the sun gun on the blend panel.. that will tell me how many coats I need on the new panel to properly cover the sealer! Then finally I will do a drop coat.. the drop coat just makes sure that the blend and the new panel have the same metallic lay out! I do that because a lot of times I’ll have the new parts in a totally separate booth from the blend panels. If you are limited to one booth and wanted to try and use this method I would recommend doing the blends first cycle.. that way you can better tell how many coats you’ll have to put on the new panel!
You definitely are doing the job perfect and I’m jealous of your setup! I love that 3m gun. Thanks for the comments and the great tips you have shared here!
@@PaintSociety ahh man I’m not perfect at all but I have learned a lot from you and this is the only way I can give back to you.. thank you! I love the 3m gun.. I don’t clear with it but I do spray base and sealer.. and use them for any size project! I love that every week I can throw out the tips and start fresh! I have one prepper and together we are able to around 300 commission hours a week. It wouldn’t be possible with out amazing tools like the 3m guns, Uv primer, and the list goes on!
Good call on the sealer on the blend panel- I do that often aswell. wish I could edge in panels but not happening in my shop. The new 3M gun is legit. Alot of painters are hesitant b/c the old one wasn't really that good.
What would you use to ensure adhesion to the paint on door and fender?
P600
very useful tips sir✅✅
hope to have 1 spray gun like that spray gun you're using sir 🔥😍..
Do you not use blend base on pearl finish.
Not all the time. Not needed
Thanks Brian - you have tape halfway up over the A pillar - I assume you have to make some effort to not have a line and to use blend spray...pls comment - appreciate all your knowledge
Me..bring me memories when I put until 5 layer pearl to make its look same..
Owh what I'm doing all this time is wrong.. But we'll.. No mistake..
There will no experience to learn..
By the way..
Don't overthinking..
It's just a paint...#
N I loooovvve.. this motto..
Whats the best paint guns in your opinion? for clear and for paint, the one you personally wold buy with close eyes
Check the description for the top two guns I use for base and clear.
a good painter has made all the mistakes and remembers them
I'm from South Africa as well
I have been painting for 6 months now my question is when am painting my paint dont shine as most of the videos I have watched what am I doing wrong is the air flow higher then the paint some one help on that
I've made all the mistakes and still making some every now and then lol
Brian, do you ever get orange peel after you are done?
Factory orange peel yes
I am such a newbie, not even sure what you mean by factory OP?