The name "Delboy" caught my eyesight and i am greatful I stumbled on your sight; first I am several thousands miles from your area (In the Caribbean); my project IS using Aluminium sheeting to build a housing for a Power Supply unit; however, with the constant high humidity here in Puerto Rico, Aluminium welding Rods don't work well, once you take them out from their packaging they immediately start absorbing the moisture and in a matter of seconds you have what looks like Baking Powder on a stick, I'm very low on funds so I couldn't buy an Aluminium sheet; I did find a sheet with perforated holes of about 5mm, I figured it will be good ventilation; after watching you finish the build on your BIKE'S seat (a BUSA I think), I'v decided I am going to give it a try using the "BRAZING METHOD", you helped me build up my confidence ""WHY NOT""; Before I go, personally i'm a TRIUMPH fanatic (OLE SCHOOL) since the 60's; Great Job, your confidence SHOWS in your video which is a PLUS all around, thanks!!
Love the way you just have a go, feel your way through learning something new. Sometimes it works, sometimes it dont. Thats the way it goes. Encourages those of us with less confidence to have a bash. Great stuff Del.
Perseverance Del, perseverance. You can do it, local heat hold torch closer, heat sink the other areas. We use to use a potato cut in half next to the area requiring heat
Love watching your clips. Learning so much at the begining of my own motorcycle mechanic jurney. First fixed and prepared my Harley for the season with your movies, now getting motivation to start mechanic course.
The instructions on these DIY rods say not necessary, but I wonder the same as you, whether even though they kind of work, would they flow better with more capillary action if the application of an external flux.
Hi Paul, Good to hear from you as always, It's good to hear that you can use the videos to motivate your own projects.. Have a great weekend and ride safe.. D&Pxx
You might want to invest in Irwin Left and Right hand snips. They cut clean and allow easier and precise left or right hand cuts as the case may be and make life so much easier. They are not pricey either. I have seven different snips and all witj their own characteristics and make my work pleasant.
Hi Del, obviously you've noticed that the "experts" are giving you the benefit of their somewhat dubious knowledge. I say, keep up the good work, I'm enjoying watching the progress you're making with the Busa.
Thanks Ken, yeah, business as usual there aye, everyone's an expert on other peoples projects.. just having fun with an old bike and learning a few new things along the way... have a good weekend mate, and keep in touch.. Del.
Hi, could you share what rods were you using? So thin aluminium and you're doing great there. I bought some 'low-temperature-melting' rods of ebay, but these are crap, I melt my aluminium shapes before the rod starts to melt anyhow. Thank you for the video.
The roads were made by Duraflex, we covered them in the main video demonstrating them on the Channel, most of what is for sale as 'aluminium welding rods' with no zinc content, they're just plain aluminium and have the same melt point as the parent metal, as you've found... you need rods that melt at around 350c, not 600 like the parent metal, then they'll work.
Yes Marc, pretty much impossible, if you watched the last video, i had to slit the sides to allow the metal to stretch, then trim off the cut sections.. it's because there are several opposing curves in many directions for it to hug the tank and sit flat on the seat.. it could maybe have been created on a single panel by a master craftsman with better equipment.. but thats not me and i did my best with what i have...
Find yourself a nice plumber and tap him up for some leaded solder mate not the lead free solder we have to use on potable water that will do the job and it’s on a reel 👍👍 it’s looking good aye
I used regular solder to fill in small dents in aluminium, always went dark gray over time in comparsion to the rest. Not sure if would be affected with a clear coat
What is the benefit of using the tin snips, I can't imagine they are quicker than the grinder with a cutting blade, surely they are only better for the short twisty snippy bits not long lengths. Please educate me! ,,,😁
Awww yes that looked like a fantastic brew del and then another brew best video ever 👍👍 sheet work is coming along fantastic I hope the filling in gose well del be awsome to see that finished in raw form, top job del look forward to the next one .
Thanks Gav, top brews indeed, hence the reason for the second one...!! thanks for your kind words mate, enjoying the process ,and making forward steps all thew time... have a good weekend mate.. D&Pxx
@@Moonfleet41 awsome glad your enjoying them man 👍 thanks for your awsome videos man , I'll be working on my side number plate holder this weekend so looking forward to starting it after work now I only made it becouse or your content you make things look easy tho I don't 😂😂 have a good weekend man and say hello to penny for me too 👍👍top Chanel 👍👍
When I did silver soldering, brass, I always used flux.. did you put a flux or just rely on the rosin or flux core of the solder there instead? Cheers, be well!
@@Moonfleet41 not sure! With the brass it seemed to help it flow down inside the joint, else the surface tension seemed to let the solder kind of just float and not flow, if you will. Yours seemed to do just fine though! Cheers for the reply 😀
@@ollieb9875 Yeah, the ally does seem to be ok, but its still sticky and seems to have some resistance to moving down the joint.. i wonder if flux would make it flow more liquid and creep along the inside of the joint with more of a capillary action... worth a try maybe.!
@@Moonfleet41 yeah the idea is the, well, I'm sure you know, but the flux kind of boils away any oxide layer there so like you say the solder should flow on the bare metal. There's a paste which plumbers use, or used to use before everything went plastic, after cleaning the part you put a little where the solder should go and it takes it there. Never tried Ali myself though! I make little trinkets and lockpicks, just for myself though for fun. Steel, brass, copper, silver is as far as I've got 😀
Dude. Del. That tail and seat pan are looking absolutely *spectacular!!* Random bit of curiosity, what is your deciding factor between using the hand shears vs the electric grinder to cut sheet metal? Originally I figured it was large vs intricate items, but I'm not actually sure that's the case. I've never had good luck with the hand sheers, but that's almost certainly because all of mine have been clapped out trash because it just wants to fold the metal vs actually sheer it..
Hi mate, thanks for your kind words.. Ok, the sheers are so easy to use in thin sheet aluminium, and i can cut intricate curves as well as long straight cuts.. your previous issues may well have been due to the sheers themselves,, get some heavy duty Aviation tin snips... they have a serrated cutting edge that grips the metal, and a compound action like a reduction gear.. you'll love them mate, specially for thin stuff..
There is a smaller burner with a hose connection to the map gas bottle that plumbers use for lead welding and more precision work. You hold it like a pen and you might find it useful on your project
Hi Del looks like the new gas burner is the business. Really liking the seat fabrication and what a great idea about using electrical solder to fill those small holes, hope it works. Have a great weekend and see you next week. Andy.
Thanks Andy, yeah the gas burner is amazing, heats the sheet metal up in a fraction of the time, so it's gonna be more economical too.. going to try the solder, but its not straight forward. ill see how it goes.
Seeing you doing a bit of 'Industrial Soldering' - I remember in the 50's our village was having mains water laid, (trenches everywhere), and the chaps laying the pipes always had this dirty great cauldren on the boil 'filled' with molten lead which they used to ladel out and pour over the joints. (It seemed to work then, not sure Health & Safety would approve these days with us kids all stood around watching in AWE! :-) My Old Dad was the 'NightWatchman' - something else we 'need' on many jobs these days.
Hi Peter, what a wonderful story, and yeah, can you imagine that flying in the face of Health and Safety these days.. they'd have a fit..lol.. . Thanks for sharing sir, and have a wonderful weekend.. Del.
From experience with welding and a bit of brazing, I'd imagine that to get the best joint, you'll need to get the parent material near to melting point (it looks a bit cold to me, it's a very acute change in characteristics, you'll see it dull, it's a tricky one to see but it comes with experience, get a few pieces and just melt them with the torch, then try backing off just before and keeping it there with the torch), as I understand it, the material becomes closer to a fluid state and the braze 'grabs' the surface on a molecular level, this is along with a properly prepared joint, which you've done, bit of a gap so the filler fills in and around the gap and grabs it along the face and backside if you get me fella, very much interested to see how this method works in the long run in a vibration rich environment 👍🏻 free for advice in the subject, more of a TIG/MIG/STICK welder
Hi James.. i get that exactly.. all metal goes into a different state just before it flows.. in fact with this new torch, just getting used to the extra heat from it, i did part melt a couple of places on the 1mm sheet, (bearing in mind it melts about 660c, not even cherry red on steel !!) it started to warp and shrink away from the heat and go really grey and dull... i need a bit more practice controlling the torch heat, turn it down a little maybe so its not so direct..thanks for the insight mate, time will tell how it all lasts.. but im confident given that it took half a dozen 'stand back' belts with a 2lb hammer to break open a test joint..!
@@Moonfleet41 Yeah I was rather impressed with its resistance in that test to be honest, I saw the product a while ago and I was sceptical at first until I've seen people do testing on it, but still, vibrations can be more detrimental to a weld than a blow over time, and I'm really interested to see how it turns out! But that's a solid weld I'm talking about, brazing seems to have more of a give to it as the bonding material is softer, but this is bronze brazing I'm talking, this zink baised alloy (I think it is anyway) seems to be tougher than the ally, but that's the thing with theories, they ain't nothing till you test it I suppose so good on you for trying it, can't really seem to find many people actually implimenting it into things. And yes, I forget the temps but MAP is a fair bit hotter than butane to propane if memory serves... with ally being such a bugger with heat dissipation, my plan of attack would be to pre heat the material in the local area but concentrating along the joint, leaving the torch at a 30ish deg angle along the surface, then going to start my joint by localising the heat where I want it and when at the correct temp, flicking it further up the joint while I add filler to move the heat along (if it gets too hot, pulling away and letting it cool, this comes with practice) and continuing with this rhythm till I've reached the end of the joint, when brazing I want it to flow in and have a capillary action going on, if it sticks on and globs up you are usually too cold... and going too hot.. well that one is obvious 😂 learnt that lesson with an oxy-acetylene torch... Turning it down may have another benefit as well with the added heat of the MAP gas, I noticed that the torch is blowing the filler around a bit, so if you turn it down a little and go a little slower the pool might be a bit more stable, having an added benefit of it being easier to control that way, always a sweet spot with these kind of things, when I TIG ally I stamp on the peddle and belt it with a bit of heat around the area and as I go along I fade it back due to its characteristics with heat. Anyway, enough of my ramblings 😂 hopefully there is a few nuggets in there that may help or provide a bit of insight or invoke new thoughts! Take it easy, I look forward to it 👍🏻
There's a bit Randy Grubb about this one, him of Jay Leno's tank hotrod fame and the cute Decapods. Really enjoying it and loving the design elements like the R/R guard from the rising sun!
"Aviation shears" Richard, easy, quick and simple.. also thin sheet aluminium almost melts when you hit it with a high speed disc, leaves a nasty thick burr that needs cleaning up... so much easier to just reach for the shears, and they cut intricate curves down to an inch in diameter with very little distortion.. give em a try, you'll see what i mean.
Melting point is 730 degrees.. the only lower is electrical soft solder i believe.. this product states in its information that no flux is required.. learning as i go, just got to master the process a bit more.
@@Moonfleet41 Are you sure ? Ali melts well below 730. You ideally need solder melting point 450 degrees. For electrical use, the solder temperature is around 260.
@@Moonfleet41 Alright, then (-; Guessing the solder isn't the problem, it should be just about fine. I think the metal isn't hot enough. I would try a more thorough heating of the metal, before applying the solder. Obviously you don't want to warp the life out of the sheeting, but it seems as if the solder isn't flowing properly. It looks like you are stacking a bead of TIG dimes, where the solder ought to flow naturally to a smooth finish.
You too kind sir, it's so much fun making bodywork from scratch, an item nobody has and none more like it exist.. Have a good weekend yourself and ride safe.. D&Px
Brilliant job pall, the seat unit is looking really nice. I think i should give you my Harley sportster and my Hayabusa for some brilliant mods 😁👍keep up the good work
Hey Del , glad you got a proper Rothenberger torch, much better and easier to use, plus they are great for lighting bbq’s 😉 I had same problem of remelting an area that had already been done,so I’m keen to see how you overcome this. You can also get butane cylinder which isn’t so fierce. Keep up the good work 😎
Nice ass bruv. See is looking sweeet! A mirror polish perhaps? I'm really enjoying this build and knowing you, your gonna put some out there stuff on it too. Bring on the next one bruv. Keep them surprises coming. It's looking good in the new place too, well done the both of you. Travel safe peeps and stay warm. All the best, and HAPPY XMAS 🌟
Ayup Ray... Naah, no polish here mate.. its gonna be Rat Rod and Raggedy.. bare metal tank too, and scuff up the rest... this one's all about the shape..! have a good weekend mate, and ride safe.. Del.
After watching your videos, I'm not so afraid to get out my comfort zone and try new things. Thanks for jumping in the shark tank before me, keep at it mate! I have a question? do you think those Aluminum sticks will work for building a battery bo? It's for a bicycle, not a motorcycle, also the battery is very light lithium-ion cells, it will mostly be for looks and to hide wires than it will be for structural purposes. Thanks from Northern California Rob
Hi Rob, well I made the tail panel for my cafe racer bike using sheet aluminium, welded together with these rods... and it's fine! So give it a try, if it's non-structural, it should work fine.
Moonfleet41 I was thinking a cut 180 degree slice 1/2 inch thick . Rear light frenched and then frenched too , the indicators frenched too but at the sides ( same 180 slot )
@@8ball903 Cool ideas mate.. lots of options, im still buildong the bodywork first.. undertray to sort out next, that'll help decide on the best back light option once its all complete..
Loved that trigger torch ... gonna need to get me one of those! How is that 1 mil going to hold your weight? Hey never hear the Transitions playing in the garage anymore ... are they off your music list?
Hey buddy.. the 1mm should be fine, its all resting on a heavy tube frame, that will bare the load of my faddass just fine i recon.. karlos and Dave to mostly covers, and we've had a few issues with copyright on many well known tracks they cover.. still use their original track now and again though..
Del, don't put your tea on a metal bench or shelf, it acts as a huge heat sink and your tea goes cold quicker. Stick a piece of ply or thick card under it. Don't want you drinking cold tea !!
Hey Del forgot to add, riding a BIKE with an all aluminium seat is NOT actually a good idea, "YES IT LOOKS AWESOME; however, you need some cushioning to soften the force of shock; It will show up on your WELDS, let us know how well they stand up to the force of GRAVITY and your weight; it will be interesting.
Hello I like what you do andhow youdesign it!Wich you all the best and fun !Am curiosus how the end result is determined d really good ! Greetings from Germany
Evening Del, your getting there mate, top idea too leave it bare metal, in fact you have to👍 with regards the seat are you having a foam racing type seat, or why not an upholstered seat a nod to the new Norton SS it's more expensive but would look trick, if you get chance Google some pics of new norton seat unit. Del have a good wkend keep rocking and ride safe cheers J.. 🏍️👍
Soz mate just a quick one have a look at the front sprocket cover on the norton SS I reckon you'll like it and be making one to mirror the rectifyer cover cheers j
Thanks mate the front sprocket cover on these incorporates the clutch slave cylinder too, and very little is left to show off the sprocket area... but i do have a few other custom ideas for later when the bodywork is done..
Have you seen David Guyton on TH-cam? He makes amazing home made armour from sheet. He makes some of the smoothest curves and joints with hand tools. Give him a peek.
Hi Gary.. i have had the nudge a few times, ill have a look when i get time to sit and enjoy it.. its amazing learning from the craftsmen out there aye... have a good weekend mate, and take care. Del.
I know you like the look of the rectifier cover you made, but take a step back and have a good look. Its not for that bike .It looks out of place.Don't get me wrong you done a good job . Remove it and then look at the bike and I think you will agree .
Have done, and Nope, i love it mate, of course, i can see the bigger intended look, and all you can see is the single item by itself.... stick with it mate.. still have the whole bike to do yet..
Map gas burns too hot, you probably don't need it with the rothenberger torch as it's already good with just a propane bottle. Try it and see because the bottle is self sealing.
What's up!! Man, as always your works are top! Just an idea, never thought of making the scorpion style tail !? Another, when starting a new project, makes a Streetfighter! It's very cool this style too! Hugs, and keep up the great videos!
Hey Del, do you know of a guy call Craig Rodsmith? (look him up on TH-cam) He does heaps of Aluminium fabrication work. Might be good for tips and ideas! I love that solder, it’s giving ideas for other projects.
No tin / electrical solder. It's a dissimilar metal and once you sand it down... you will see it. I will wait and see your tests. Your getting really good at the aluminum rod. Why not practice doing fills with that, it would make more sense IMO.
Hi mate.. i have found the tin solder doesn't work like the ally rods.. but also they won't work as a filler on joints already filled with the same stuff as it will only melt if you get the part up to the rod melting temp... then the joint weld can melt too and flow out, so its a dilemma for sure.. ill make a plan mate. got masses to do still and this kind of thing is details i can leave till later.. thanks for your input. Del.
@@Moonfleet41 Perhaps the secret might be in some creative heat sink placement around the area that needs to be filled or maybe try a smaller tip to reduce the heat affected zone or both. Either way I look forward to your progress. :)
Fascinating to watch Del, (for me anyway) Yep, got to keep that ally on show. Im getting a sort of 50's or 60's cafe racer vibe. Interesting to see what youll do at the front of the bike.👍
Hi mate just a quick one if you get chance to have a look at the norton SS have a close look at the front sprocket cover, it would mirror your rectifyer cover, cheers mate. J👍👍🏍️
The name "Delboy" caught my eyesight and i am greatful I stumbled on your sight; first I am several thousands miles from your area (In the Caribbean); my project IS using Aluminium sheeting to build a housing for a Power Supply unit; however, with the constant high humidity here in Puerto Rico, Aluminium welding Rods don't work well, once you take them out from their packaging they immediately start absorbing the moisture and in a matter of seconds you have what looks like Baking Powder on a stick, I'm very low on funds so I couldn't buy an Aluminium sheet; I did find a sheet with perforated holes of about 5mm, I figured it will be good ventilation; after watching you finish the build on your BIKE'S seat (a BUSA I think), I'v decided I am going to give it a try using the "BRAZING METHOD", you helped me build up my confidence ""WHY NOT""; Before I go, personally i'm a TRIUMPH fanatic (OLE SCHOOL) since the 60's; Great Job, your confidence SHOWS in your video which is a PLUS all around, thanks!!
I also think the rectifier takes away from the look.🏍
Love the way you just have a go, feel your way through learning something new. Sometimes it works, sometimes it dont. Thats the way it goes. Encourages those of us with less confidence to have a bash. Great stuff Del.
Exactly that my friend, have a go at it, how hard can it be, and enjoy the process aye... Thanks for your kind feedback..
@port nut Hi there.. the rods are "Durafix Aluminium Welding Rods".. available from many sellers online.
Perseverance Del, perseverance. You can do it, local heat hold torch closer, heat sink the other areas. We use to use a potato cut in half next to the area requiring heat
I absolutely LOVE the Potato trick.. i will be trying that for sure.. Thanks mate.
I am trying to weld sheet aluminum like yours. Is that weld rod aluminum too? It is not Tin right?
Love watching your clips. Learning so much at the begining of my own motorcycle mechanic jurney. First fixed and prepared my Harley for the season with your movies, now getting motivation to start mechanic course.
That's great news Saddam, hope you enjoy your mechanical journey.
Absolutely love your crafting skills with paper. Kids these days don’t know that skill!
Thanks Jon, You're right, its all CAD and 3d mapping now... very posh, but sad they can't just make a simple paper template aye, :-(
Moonfleet41 i used some low temp aluminum brazing rods and flux from Muggy Weld to fill in some divots on sheet aluminum
Just a question: why wouldn't you use flux like you do when you join copper pipes and such?
The instructions on these DIY rods say not necessary, but I wonder the same as you, whether even though they kind of work, would they flow better with more capillary action if the application of an external flux.
@@Moonfleet41 Thank you for the response. sounds like its time for sweet test trial? ha!
If I have a piece I need to reattach strength not an issue but need to know if brazing will allow the two piece to electrically ground to each other
👍 what kond of brazing rod you used, cause i always fail brazzing aluminium sheet
Duraflex brand, aluminium 'welding' rods, we have a popular video on demonstrating their use, it's the intro video on our Channel!
Q. Can I use sheet metal to make a mini bike gas tank? Also brazing weld it
Awesome, You're videos encourage me to fix my own motorcycle👍Penny &You Del Ride Safely And Have A Wonderful Weekend.
Hi Paul, Good to hear from you as always, It's good to hear that you can use the videos to motivate your own projects.. Have a great weekend and ride safe.. D&Pxx
On your personal opinion, do you recommend using this technique to make an aluminium gas tank?
You might want to invest in Irwin Left and Right hand snips. They cut clean and allow easier and precise left or right hand cuts as the case may be and make life so much easier. They are not pricey either. I have seven different snips and all witj their own characteristics and make my work pleasant.
Great video, what did you use for the brazing filler wire.
Hi Del, obviously you've noticed that the "experts" are giving you the benefit of their somewhat dubious knowledge.
I say, keep up the good work, I'm enjoying watching the progress you're making with the Busa.
Thanks Ken, yeah, business as usual there aye, everyone's an expert on other peoples projects.. just having fun with an old bike and learning a few new things along the way... have a good weekend mate, and keep in touch.. Del.
Hi, could you share what rods were you using? So thin aluminium and you're doing great there. I bought some 'low-temperature-melting' rods of ebay, but these are crap, I melt my aluminium shapes before the rod starts to melt anyhow. Thank you for the video.
The roads were made by Duraflex, we covered them in the main video demonstrating them on the Channel, most of what is for sale as 'aluminium welding rods' with no zinc content, they're just plain aluminium and have the same melt point as the parent metal, as you've found... you need rods that melt at around 350c, not 600 like the parent metal, then they'll work.
@@Moonfleet41 Thank you.
I found your channel whilst looking into aluminium brazing, I'm liking the look of the Busa 👌
Thanks buddy, it was a while ago, but a great project and am enjoying using it on the roads!
Hey buddy it keeps getting better, loving the process !
And thanks again i'm having a right old nostalgia trip with our old tunes ..👍🏻☮❤
Thanks Brother, Awesomest music ever.. and wonderful to have your support.. .have a good weekend and take care.. .D&Pxx
Hello Del Nice Job!! Was it impossible to cut in one part the seat panel and tilt the both sides ? Thank you
Yes Marc, pretty much impossible, if you watched the last video, i had to slit the sides to allow the metal to stretch, then trim off the cut sections.. it's because there are several opposing curves in many directions for it to hug the tank and sit flat on the seat.. it could maybe have been created on a single panel by a master craftsman with better equipment.. but thats not me and i did my best with what i have...
Find yourself a nice plumber and tap him up for some leaded solder mate not the lead free solder we have to use on potable water that will do the job and it’s on a reel 👍👍 it’s looking good aye
Hey buddy, all ears mate, can't find it anywhere, even to use to test.. maybe its too dangerous to use in these lead free times aye..!!
Moonfleet41 if you go into a plumbers merchants you can get it there I got some 😂😂
I don't think you'll find any. Unless someone has a stash of 60/40 from the 1980's.
I used regular solder to fill in small dents in aluminium, always went dark gray over time in comparsion to the rest. Not sure if would be affected with a clear coat
Yeah, so im hearing mate, certainly different metals, maybe incompatible in the long run.. i have a few other options if it doesn't work out.
Well done! I loved the vest falling off the wall. Keep up the great work!
What is the benefit of using the tin snips, I can't imagine they are quicker than the grinder with a cutting blade, surely they are only better for the short twisty snippy bits not long lengths.
Please educate me! ,,,😁
Thank you for taking the time to film your work, these video's are fantastic!
Glad you like them mate, thank you!
Awesome!!would it help anything using flux u think probably not needed?
The product information states 'no need for flux'.. but as some have said, it could still be of benefit.. haven't tried it yet..
Bare naked metal! Yeehaw! What could be better than that, Del? 😎. Looking good-! 🏍👍🏍
Yeah, hardcore baby.... you know it.lol! Have a good weekend..D&Px
Moonfleet41 😎
Awww yes that looked like a fantastic brew del and then another brew best video ever 👍👍 sheet work is coming along fantastic I hope the filling in gose well del be awsome to see that finished in raw form, top job del look forward to the next one .
Thanks Gav, top brews indeed, hence the reason for the second one...!! thanks for your kind words mate, enjoying the process ,and making forward steps all thew time... have a good weekend mate.. D&Pxx
@@Moonfleet41 awsome glad your enjoying them man 👍 thanks for your awsome videos man , I'll be working on my side number plate holder this weekend so looking forward to starting it after work now I only made it becouse or your content you make things look easy tho I don't 😂😂 have a good weekend man and say hello to penny for me too 👍👍top Chanel 👍👍
When I did silver soldering, brass, I always used flux.. did you put a flux or just rely on the rosin or flux core of the solder there instead? Cheers, be well!
Nothing extra Ollie, just direct to the part like the instructions said.. seems to work ok, not sure if flux would make a different outcome.?
@@Moonfleet41 not sure! With the brass it seemed to help it flow down inside the joint, else the surface tension seemed to let the solder kind of just float and not flow, if you will. Yours seemed to do just fine though! Cheers for the reply 😀
@@ollieb9875 Yeah, the ally does seem to be ok, but its still sticky and seems to have some resistance to moving down the joint.. i wonder if flux would make it flow more liquid and creep along the inside of the joint with more of a capillary action... worth a try maybe.!
@@Moonfleet41 yeah the idea is the, well, I'm sure you know, but the flux kind of boils away any oxide layer there so like you say the solder should flow on the bare metal. There's a paste which plumbers use, or used to use before everything went plastic, after cleaning the part you put a little where the solder should go and it takes it there. Never tried Ali myself though! I make little trinkets and lockpicks, just for myself though for fun. Steel, brass, copper, silver is as far as I've got 😀
Dude. Del. That tail and seat pan are looking absolutely *spectacular!!*
Random bit of curiosity, what is your deciding factor between using the hand shears vs the electric grinder to cut sheet metal? Originally I figured it was large vs intricate items, but I'm not actually sure that's the case. I've never had good luck with the hand sheers, but that's almost certainly because all of mine have been clapped out trash because it just wants to fold the metal vs actually sheer it..
Hi mate, thanks for your kind words.. Ok, the sheers are so easy to use in thin sheet aluminium, and i can cut intricate curves as well as long straight cuts.. your previous issues may well have been due to the sheers themselves,, get some heavy duty Aviation tin snips... they have a serrated cutting edge that grips the metal, and a compound action like a reduction gear.. you'll love them mate, specially for thin stuff..
Probably fill dings and holes with more Ali braze? Not a stressed part so best way to go?
yeah, not so easy if there is already low temp braze in the joint.. it can just melt out again when you try to heat it up to fill.. !!
There is a smaller burner with a hose connection to the map gas bottle that plumbers use for lead welding and more precision work. You hold it like a pen and you might find it useful on your project
top top del, exelent work. ... I can not wait to see the project finished . gianni 😉👍👍👍👏👏👏
Ciao Gianni, good to hear from you, finish is a long way off yet, but its a wonderful journey. have a good weekend my friend ,and keep in touch.. Del.
Fantastic job del 🖒
Once again fab job 👍👍👍🏍🏍
You are holding those tin snips in the wrong hand. Lol
Just gets better and better 😀 looking good 😎😎
I can’t get enough of this technique and “ how to’s” with the aluminum “welding” love it !!
Hi Del looks like the new gas burner is the business. Really liking the seat fabrication and what a great idea about using electrical solder to fill those small holes, hope it works.
Have a great weekend and see you next week.
Andy.
Thanks Andy, yeah the gas burner is amazing, heats the sheet metal up in a fraction of the time, so it's gonna be more economical too.. going to try the solder, but its not straight forward. ill see how it goes.
Seeing you doing a bit of 'Industrial Soldering' - I remember in the 50's our village was having mains water laid, (trenches everywhere), and the chaps laying the pipes always had this dirty great cauldren on the boil 'filled' with molten lead which they used to ladel out and pour over the joints. (It seemed to work then, not sure Health & Safety would approve these days with us kids all stood around watching in AWE! :-)
My Old Dad was the 'NightWatchman' - something else we 'need' on many jobs these days.
Hi Peter, what a wonderful story, and yeah, can you imagine that flying in the face of Health and Safety these days.. they'd have a fit..lol.. . Thanks for sharing sir, and have a wonderful weekend.. Del.
Great work del you are a true artist/mechanic👍🏻 i love watching your videos and i have learnd a lot from you😎👍🏻 so Thanks bro keep up the good work
Thank you Henrik, you are very kind, and we're really glad you enjoy the videos..
From experience with welding and a bit of brazing, I'd imagine that to get the best joint, you'll need to get the parent material near to melting point (it looks a bit cold to me, it's a very acute change in characteristics, you'll see it dull, it's a tricky one to see but it comes with experience, get a few pieces and just melt them with the torch, then try backing off just before and keeping it there with the torch), as I understand it, the material becomes closer to a fluid state and the braze 'grabs' the surface on a molecular level, this is along with a properly prepared joint, which you've done, bit of a gap so the filler fills in and around the gap and grabs it along the face and backside if you get me fella, very much interested to see how this method works in the long run in a vibration rich environment 👍🏻 free for advice in the subject, more of a TIG/MIG/STICK welder
Hi James.. i get that exactly.. all metal goes into a different state just before it flows.. in fact with this new torch, just getting used to the extra heat from it, i did part melt a couple of places on the 1mm sheet, (bearing in mind it melts about 660c, not even cherry red on steel !!) it started to warp and shrink away from the heat and go really grey and dull... i need a bit more practice controlling the torch heat, turn it down a little maybe so its not so direct..thanks for the insight mate, time will tell how it all lasts.. but im confident given that it took half a dozen 'stand back' belts with a 2lb hammer to break open a test joint..!
@@Moonfleet41 Yeah I was rather impressed with its resistance in that test to be honest, I saw the product a while ago and I was sceptical at first until I've seen people do testing on it, but still, vibrations can be more detrimental to a weld than a blow over time, and I'm really interested to see how it turns out! But that's a solid weld I'm talking about, brazing seems to have more of a give to it as the bonding material is softer, but this is bronze brazing I'm talking, this zink baised alloy (I think it is anyway) seems to be tougher than the ally, but that's the thing with theories, they ain't nothing till you test it I suppose so good on you for trying it, can't really seem to find many people actually implimenting it into things.
And yes, I forget the temps but MAP is a fair bit hotter than butane to propane if memory serves... with ally being such a bugger with heat dissipation, my plan of attack would be to pre heat the material in the local area but concentrating along the joint, leaving the torch at a 30ish deg angle along the surface, then going to start my joint by localising the heat where I want it and when at the correct temp, flicking it further up the joint while I add filler to move the heat along (if it gets too hot, pulling away and letting it cool, this comes with practice) and continuing with this rhythm till I've reached the end of the joint, when brazing I want it to flow in and have a capillary action going on, if it sticks on and globs up you are usually too cold... and going too hot.. well that one is obvious 😂 learnt that lesson with an oxy-acetylene torch... Turning it down may have another benefit as well with the added heat of the MAP gas, I noticed that the torch is blowing the filler around a bit, so if you turn it down a little and go a little slower the pool might be a bit more stable, having an added benefit of it being easier to control that way, always a sweet spot with these kind of things, when I TIG ally I stamp on the peddle and belt it with a bit of heat around the area and as I go along I fade it back due to its characteristics with heat.
Anyway, enough of my ramblings 😂 hopefully there is a few nuggets in there that may help or provide a bit of insight or invoke new thoughts! Take it easy, I look forward to it 👍🏻
There's a bit Randy Grubb about this one, him of Jay Leno's tank hotrod fame and the cute Decapods. Really enjoying it and loving the design elements like the R/R guard from the rising sun!
Thank you Mark.. what an honour to be compared to such a legend.. you're very kind indeed.. !
@@Moonfleet41 It is well deserved Del. Posting your creative process takes a great deal of courage and brings us a great deal of joy. Keep on making!
@@Gorbyrev Thank you so much Mark, it warms my heart to know you get such pleasure from the videos..
Looks great. Why do you use tin snips vs the angle grinder?
"Aviation shears" Richard, easy, quick and simple.. also thin sheet aluminium almost melts when you hit it with a high speed disc, leaves a nasty thick burr that needs cleaning up... so much easier to just reach for the shears, and they cut intricate curves down to an inch in diameter with very little distortion.. give em a try, you'll see what i mean.
Del how many more days before this is ready
Man i cant wait 🤣
Try some solder with a lower melting point. The metal will flow much better. Did I miss it, or were you using any flux ?
Melting point is 730 degrees.. the only lower is electrical soft solder i believe.. this product states in its information that no flux is required.. learning as i go, just got to master the process a bit more.
@@Moonfleet41 Are you sure ? Ali melts well below 730.
You ideally need solder melting point 450 degrees.
For electrical use, the solder temperature is around 260.
@@thefreedomguyuk Sorry mate, should have been more specific, these rods melt at 730F, (390c) so the safest would be some electrical solder then..!
@@Moonfleet41 Alright, then (-;
Guessing the solder isn't the problem, it should be just about fine.
I think the metal isn't hot enough. I would try a more thorough heating of the metal, before applying the solder.
Obviously you don't want to warp the life out of the sheeting, but it seems as if the solder isn't flowing properly. It looks like you are stacking a bead of TIG dimes, where the solder ought to flow naturally to a smooth finish.
A cold beer and a new Del fabrication video - what could be a better start to Friday evening?
Enjoy buddy.
@port nut Hi again.. the metal is 1mm thick sheet Aluminum..
Marvelous .
Cheers Alfie, have a good weekend mate.
@@Moonfleet41 . Also to Both of you Brother Del . Love the 16.15 m Sound effect 🙂.
Looking good Del, I like your idea of no paint. It will look very cool with a bit of retro. Penny and you have relaxing and safe weekend. Cheers
You too kind sir, it's so much fun making bodywork from scratch, an item nobody has and none more like it exist.. Have a good weekend yourself and ride safe.. D&Px
Oh and just a note. Dont snip to the end of the blades, makes dents
Im no expert but your starting to get that quite neat along the joints Del looking good as per normal
Thanks buddy, little steps aye.
Brilliant job pall, the seat unit is looking really nice. I think i should give you my Harley sportster and my Hayabusa for some brilliant mods 😁👍keep up the good work
Hey Del , glad you got a proper Rothenberger torch, much better and easier to use, plus they are great for lighting bbq’s 😉 I had same problem of remelting an area that had already been done,so I’m keen to see how you overcome this. You can also get butane cylinder which isn’t so fierce. Keep up the good work 😎
Nice ass bruv. See is looking sweeet! A mirror polish perhaps? I'm really enjoying this build and knowing you, your gonna put some out there stuff on it too. Bring on the next one bruv. Keep them surprises coming. It's looking good in the new place too, well done the both of you. Travel safe peeps and stay warm. All the best, and HAPPY XMAS 🌟
Ayup Ray... Naah, no polish here mate.. its gonna be Rat Rod and Raggedy.. bare metal tank too, and scuff up the rest... this one's all about the shape..! have a good weekend mate, and ride safe.. Del.
Love the GP plates in your shop!
every time i see your rising sun guard i like it more and more. great stuff.
Thanks mate, glad you like it, it certainly has viewers divided.. !
Hope you and Penny P have a great weekend
Thanks Mark, you too Sir..
After watching your videos, I'm not so afraid to get out my comfort zone and try new things. Thanks for jumping in the shark tank before me, keep at it mate! I have a question? do you think those Aluminum sticks will work for building a battery bo? It's for a bicycle, not a motorcycle, also the battery is very light lithium-ion cells, it will mostly be for looks and to hide wires than it will be for structural purposes.
Thanks from Northern California
Rob
Hi Rob, well I made the tail panel for my cafe racer bike using sheet aluminium, welded together with these rods... and it's fine! So give it a try, if it's non-structural, it should work fine.
Looks cool bud 👊😎 defo french rear light 👍
Yeah maybe.. maybe with a twist.. done a regular french rube already on the fighter, maybe some pods or summink.. !!
Moonfleet41 maybe instead of a round tube , french a narrow line across the back and slightly around sides for indicators too
@@8ball903 Like the headlight slot in the front of the fighter... or maybe like Maximilian robot from the Black Hole!
Moonfleet41 I was thinking a cut 180 degree slice 1/2 inch thick . Rear light frenched and then frenched too , the indicators frenched too but at the sides ( same 180 slot )
@@8ball903 Cool ideas mate.. lots of options, im still buildong the bodywork first.. undertray to sort out next, that'll help decide on the best back light option once its all complete..
cool
Loved that trigger torch ... gonna need to get me one of those! How is that 1 mil going to hold your weight? Hey never hear the Transitions playing in the garage anymore ... are they off your music list?
Hey buddy.. the 1mm should be fine, its all resting on a heavy tube frame, that will bare the load of my faddass just fine i recon.. karlos and Dave to mostly covers, and we've had a few issues with copyright on many well known tracks they cover.. still use their original track now and again though..
Your great attitude and energy is infectious, Del. Keep up the great work.
Excellent projetc 👌👍
Del, don't put your tea on a metal bench or shelf, it acts as a huge heat sink and your tea goes cold quicker. Stick a piece of ply or thick card under it. Don't want you drinking cold tea !!
Thanks buddy, good thinking, but it does work well when your Pot Noodle's too hot to eat!
Hey Del forgot to add, riding a BIKE with an all aluminium seat is NOT actually a good idea, "YES IT LOOKS AWESOME; however, you need some cushioning to soften the force of shock; It will show up on your WELDS, let us know how well they stand up to the force of GRAVITY and your weight; it will be interesting.
Hello
I like what you do andhow youdesign it!Wich you all the best and fun !Am curiosus how the end result is determined d really good !
Greetings from Germany
Evening Del, your getting there mate, top idea too leave it bare metal, in fact you have to👍 with regards the seat are you having a foam racing type seat, or why not an upholstered seat a nod to the new Norton SS it's more expensive but would look trick, if you get chance Google some pics of new norton seat unit. Del have a good wkend keep rocking and ride safe cheers J.. 🏍️👍
Soz mate just a quick one have a look at the front sprocket cover on the norton SS I reckon you'll like it and be making one to mirror the rectifyer cover cheers j
Thanks mate the front sprocket cover on these incorporates the clutch slave cylinder too, and very little is left to show off the sprocket area... but i do have a few other custom ideas for later when the bodywork is done..
Maybe put a damp cloth over the existing soldered joints to prevent them melting when doing a new area.
Parent metal will conduct the heat under the cloth either way, specially with aluminium being such a good heatsync.
Enjoying the fabrication
Very cool
Have you seen David Guyton on TH-cam? He makes amazing home made armour from sheet. He makes some of the smoothest curves and joints with hand tools. Give him a peek.
Hi Gary.. i have had the nudge a few times, ill have a look when i get time to sit and enjoy it.. its amazing learning from the craftsmen out there aye... have a good weekend mate, and take care. Del.
I know you like the look of the rectifier cover you made, but take a step back and have a good look. Its not for that bike .It looks out of place.Don't get me wrong you done a good job . Remove it and then look at the bike and I think you will agree .
Have done, and Nope, i love it mate, of course, i can see the bigger intended look, and all you can see is the single item by itself.... stick with it mate.. still have the whole bike to do yet..
@@Moonfleet41 Thats true , I can't wait to see it finish
Lead based solder will not work as a filler on Ali, there is no chemical bond...
Thank you for your insight Robert..
Map gas burns too hot, you probably don't need it with the rothenberger torch as it's already good with just a propane bottle. Try it and see because the bottle is self sealing.
Another job well done sir! Love that caf seat unit
What's up!!
Man, as always your works are top!
Just an idea, never thought of making the scorpion style tail !?
Another, when starting a new project, makes a Streetfighter! It's very cool this style too!
Hugs, and keep up the great videos!
a spot of tea? :)
I'm pretty sure lead solder will not alloy to aluminium, will look forward to seeing what happens 👍
👍
Lookin great, don't French the light into the top, make a dome under the seat and French them in below just an idea.. still looking good, keep it up.
I think I’ve seen something similar to that rectifier guard covering a high power mosquito zapper
I knew I'd seen it somewhere... subliminal inspiration aye
Very nice
You are a Master at Work. You are doing a great job ... Brilliant ! 👌
Hey Del, do you know of a guy call Craig Rodsmith? (look him up on TH-cam)
He does heaps of Aluminium fabrication work.
Might be good for tips and ideas!
I love that solder, it’s giving ideas for other projects.
Thanks mate, I'll give him a look , cheers!
No tin / electrical solder. It's a dissimilar metal and once you sand it down... you will see it. I will wait and see your tests. Your getting really good at the aluminum rod. Why not practice doing fills with that, it would make more sense IMO.
Hi mate.. i have found the tin solder doesn't work like the ally rods.. but also they won't work as a filler on joints already filled with the same stuff as it will only melt if you get the part up to the rod melting temp... then the joint weld can melt too and flow out, so its a dilemma for sure.. ill make a plan mate. got masses to do still and this kind of thing is details i can leave till later.. thanks for your input. Del.
@@Moonfleet41 Perhaps the secret might be in some creative heat sink placement around the area that needs to be filled or maybe try a smaller tip to reduce the heat affected zone or both. Either way I look forward to your progress. :)
Haha judge me ........ etc. etc. Love that. Keep on keeping on fella.
Yep, just stating the obvious aye Bruv... have a good weekend, D&Px
Discovery Channel next for Del
Wouldn't that be awesome..!
Fascinating to watch Del, (for me anyway) Yep, got to keep that ally on show. Im getting a sort of 50's or 60's cafe racer vibe. Interesting to see what youll do at the front of the bike.👍
Hi mate just a quick one if you get chance to have a look at the norton SS have a close look at the front sprocket cover, it would mirror your rectifyer cover, cheers mate. J👍👍🏍️
Beutiful 👍
(P) Gotta love the way solder / braising rods flow, reminds me of Terminator. Hope you both have a great weekend.
Yeah, "mimetic poly alloy"...lol! cheers buddy.. see you soon aye. D&Px
Hi dellboy you should watch the weldinggeek he knows a hole lot about aluminium . goodluck
That’s the biz that soldering or whatever✌️
Falta pouco
??
Just perfect 👌. I'm following you since the street fighter and before day by day just Awesome work you done.
Thank you for your kind words Ali..
absolutely outstanding job big fella learn something new every vid del atb iain
School boy error Del!!! Never put your T Mug on a metal surface, it will be colder than the ex's heart in seconds.
Damn right mate.. works also for when your pot noodle is too hot to eat..! great heat sync is a steel bench..lol
Your new torch is not “hotter” the heat volume is greater, propane burns at the same temperature always.
Map gas is a mixture of propane and Acetylene. We plumbers use it to give higher temperatures for brazing
Looks great, guard and all! 👍
Thank you Harold, good to hear from you sir..
Outrageously good Del, finishes off the Seat unit a treat!
Blimey, thank you most kindly sir.