Thank you for this video. I've been running my Origin for about 2 weeks. I can confirm that 15 second exposures work well - even at the Zenith. With trees and houses close by, I spend most of my time shooting close to straight up and was scared to try it. But I have learned not to try and track an object from one side of the Zenith to the other. In fact, I can't consistently track -through- the Meridian. I start shoots based on 5 -15 minutes -after- it passed the meridian, and have had NO failures doing this. The other thing I do, to try and get long amounts of time on an object, is try to shoot multiple nights in 1 - 2 hour increments, in the same part of the sky (usually at the same time depending on how far apart the sessions are) to reduce the rotation artifacts. I've tweaked Pixinsight's Gradient Correction tool to help with the rest.
Your Origin videos are among the very best on TH-cam. I do hope you'll make many more of them about this scope. Meanwhile, I'm unclear about something: are you saying that the Origin clear filter is a broadband filter? For some reason, I thought it was only glass, and that if I wanted a broadband filter I would have to buy it separately. (I own the Origin nebula filter.) I love the reasoning behind the 15-second vs 10-second option you present. But I'd thought that perhaps the 15-second exposure was problematic if one was imaging an object near the zenith. Another question has to do with your insights into the AI options. Is it the case that those options are applied in real time, as the stacked photos are accumulated? I'd assumed that they were only invoked by the Origin in its own automatic post-processing. I have other questions spurred by your excellent video, but let me save those for next time. Again, thanks for your video.
Thanks so much! Very kind of you! To clarify, the origin standard filter is just glass as far as Celestron has said. We don’t even know if it’s UV/IR or not, but just a glass clear filter. I mean in the video that you really can only have broadband or narrowband with the Origin. Whether you chose to invest in light pollution suppression filters is up to you, but essentially you’ll either be capturing objects in broadband or narrowband as just a generalized term, if that makes sense. The clear filter sees the full spectrum of visible light, as do most broadband filters (minus some light pollution lines), but a narrowband only filters do to O-III, H-alpha, etc… As for the 15-second for exposures. Typically you shouldn’t do zenith anyway since Alt Az mounts will always struggle straight overhead. No matter if it’s 10, 15, 20 or longer exposures. It’s best to avoid straight overhead. The AI settings apply themselves usually only do the stacked image on your screen, and they can save that way onto your device if you choose to save them. By tweaking them to your preferences you’ll achieve what you want to images to look like. If you select Save RAW in the settings, you can save the raw files and the raw stack for more advanced editing. And don’t hesitate to ask questions! I’m learning to, but I’m happy to pass on what I know! We all share the hobby and all the stars. So keep it coming! Clear Skies! -Max
don't forget they also have Pixinsight or some other software program to take the images from the telescope to make them ready for the astronomy pic of the day.
Sir, is there any chance you answer questions about the Origin beyond just writing in them in the comments? I’ve learned a great deal in the last two months since I got my scope and all from your videos. Tommie North Carolina
@@tommiebrock6603 Glad I can help Tommie! What other questions can I answer for you? You can always send me a message on Cloudy Nights if you want as well. Same name on there. Or feel free to comment and I’ll answer within a day usually.
I’ve not been on cloudy night so I will check that out. I was wondering if you think I need to go to 15 seconds and if you do is there any chance you could tell me one, two, three, steps how to do it?? I just can’t figure it out. Any advice or steps telling me what to do would be greatly appreciate. !
Would you be willing to help with two questions . The manual is not making it simple enough for me. 1. Ijust cannot figure out how to change my Origin from 10 second exposures to 15 second exposures. 2. When exposing the Pleiades , I can only get three stars in the shot. How do I capture the entire cluster? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Tommie, Sunset Beach, NC
@@tommiebrock6603 Hi there. To change your settings from 10 to 15 seconds when you’re out imaging, and after initialization is done when you want to take a photo of the target, you’ll see the options on the bottom for AUTO, Start Imaging, etc….Click on the AUTO button and that will bring up the other menu of all the different settings. Tap exposure and adjust to 15. Now for the Pleiades you’d probably have to rotate the camera orientation for optimal framing. You can loosen the camera on the front and rotate but you’ll have to take a new flat frame (see my newest video for help on that). The only time the default orientation will get the whole cluster is when the Pleiades is almost right up overhead for about 2 hours. Otherwise you’ll have to adjust the camera to get your field of view to get the cluster better.
@@MaximumAstronomy because of your video, I took a fantastic 1 mm of a second snapshot of the moon. I’ve learned a lot watching your videos, Thank you very much. I got the iPad like you use because you use it.
Just to make sure I understand what you were saying at initialization every time you turn the telescope on you should have the clear filter in not the nebula filter is that what you're saying
Yes. From heavier light pollution it seems the Origin struggles at times to focus and plate solve the stars correctly unless the clear filter is in place. I’ve tried over numerous nights to see if different factors play any difference, but the end result is clear filter to start.
@@ChuckBigbie It really only presents itself on very bright light pollution. I am bortle 8 and it fails consistently. Friends of mine below a 7 have gotten success but heavy heavy light pollution a few people have reported it failing more often then not.
@@MaximumAstronomy I'm at Bortle 8/9 and have no trouble initializing with a Quadband filter - even before twilight is over. It's like I'm in a much darker sky. I just leave the quadband in the Origin all the time - for all subjects. I -do- get halos, but I'm learning to not to be annoyed by them - they're just a special kind of diffraction pattern that shows I'm not stealing a Hubble shot :-)
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Love your detailed information and friendly demeanor, clear skies and have fun
@@aw7425 Thanks so much! I appreciate the nice words!
Thank you for this video. I've been running my Origin for about 2 weeks. I can confirm that 15 second exposures work well - even at the Zenith. With trees and houses close by, I spend most of my time shooting close to straight up and was scared to try it. But I have learned not to try and track an object from one side of the Zenith to the other. In fact, I can't consistently track -through- the Meridian. I start shoots based on 5 -15 minutes -after- it passed the meridian, and have had NO failures doing this. The other thing I do, to try and get long amounts of time on an object, is try to shoot multiple nights in 1 - 2 hour increments, in the same part of the sky (usually at the same time depending on how far apart the sessions are) to reduce the rotation artifacts. I've tweaked Pixinsight's Gradient Correction tool to help with the rest.
Nice video, well done!
@@GalacticConquerer Thank you!! :)
Very informative and helpful video - thanks for doing this!
Great video and thank you for the tips. I love my origin.
Your Origin videos are among the very best on TH-cam. I do hope you'll make many more of them about this scope. Meanwhile, I'm unclear about something: are you saying that the Origin clear filter is a broadband filter? For some reason, I thought it was only glass, and that if I wanted a broadband filter I would have to buy it separately. (I own the Origin nebula filter.) I love the reasoning behind the 15-second vs 10-second option you present. But I'd thought that perhaps the 15-second exposure was problematic if one was imaging an object near the zenith. Another question has to do with your insights into the AI options. Is it the case that those options are applied in real time, as the stacked photos are accumulated? I'd assumed that they were only invoked by the Origin in its own automatic post-processing. I have other questions spurred by your excellent video, but let me save those for next time. Again, thanks for your video.
Thanks so much! Very kind of you!
To clarify, the origin standard filter is just glass as far as Celestron has said. We don’t even know if it’s UV/IR or not, but just a glass clear filter. I mean in the video that you really can only have broadband or narrowband with the Origin. Whether you chose to invest in light pollution suppression filters is up to you, but essentially you’ll either be capturing objects in broadband or narrowband as just a generalized term, if that makes sense. The clear filter sees the full spectrum of visible light, as do most broadband filters (minus some light pollution lines), but a narrowband only filters do to O-III, H-alpha, etc…
As for the 15-second for exposures. Typically you shouldn’t do zenith anyway since Alt Az mounts will always struggle straight overhead. No matter if it’s 10, 15, 20 or longer exposures. It’s best to avoid straight overhead.
The AI settings apply themselves usually only do the stacked image on your screen, and they can save that way onto your device if you choose to save them. By tweaking them to your preferences you’ll achieve what you want to images to look like. If you select Save RAW in the settings, you can save the raw files and the raw stack for more advanced editing.
And don’t hesitate to ask questions! I’m learning to, but I’m happy to pass on what I know! We all share the hobby and all the stars. So keep it coming! Clear Skies!
-Max
Thank you!
Nice review. Thanks
don't forget they also have Pixinsight or some other software program to take the images from the telescope to make them ready for the astronomy pic of the day.
Sir, is there any chance you answer questions about the Origin beyond just writing in them in the comments? I’ve learned a great deal in the last two months since I got my scope and all from your videos. Tommie North Carolina
@@tommiebrock6603 Glad I can help Tommie! What other questions can I answer for you? You can always send me a message on Cloudy Nights if you want as well. Same name on there. Or feel free to comment and I’ll answer within a day usually.
I’ve not been on cloudy night so I will check that out. I was wondering if you think I need to go to 15 seconds and if you do is there any chance you could tell me one, two, three, steps how to do it?? I just can’t figure it out. Any advice or steps telling me what to do would be greatly appreciate. !
Would you be willing to help with two questions . The manual is not making it simple enough for me.
1. Ijust cannot figure out how to change my Origin from 10 second exposures to 15 second exposures.
2. When exposing the Pleiades , I can only get three stars in the shot. How do I capture the entire cluster?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Tommie,
Sunset Beach, NC
@@tommiebrock6603 Hi there. To change your settings from 10 to 15 seconds when you’re out imaging, and after initialization is done when you want to take a photo of the target, you’ll see the options on the bottom for AUTO, Start Imaging, etc….Click on the AUTO button and that will bring up the other menu of all the different settings. Tap exposure and adjust to 15.
Now for the Pleiades you’d probably have to rotate the camera orientation for optimal framing. You can loosen the camera on the front and rotate but you’ll have to take a new flat frame (see my newest video for help on that). The only time the default orientation will get the whole cluster is when the Pleiades is almost right up overhead for about 2 hours. Otherwise you’ll have to adjust the camera to get your field of view to get the cluster better.
will this do solar observations
@@cdm7steve Not yet, they are not configured for that.
I'm surprised that the heat wave from the camera does not affect the image quality.
Which optolong extreme f2 did you use?
@@tommiebrock6603 It’s called the Optolong L-eXtreme F2 Fast Filter. It’s only available in a 2” format as far as I know.
@@MaximumAstronomy because of your video, I took a fantastic 1 mm of a second snapshot of the moon. I’ve learned a lot watching your videos, Thank you very much. I got the iPad like you use because you use it.
Just to make sure I understand what you were saying at initialization every time you turn the telescope on you should have the clear filter in not the nebula filter is that what you're saying
Yes. From heavier light pollution it seems the Origin struggles at times to focus and plate solve the stars correctly unless the clear filter is in place. I’ve tried over numerous nights to see if different factors play any difference, but the end result is clear filter to start.
@MaximumAstronomy i have not had the plate solve issue with the filter? I must be lucky.
@@ChuckBigbie It really only presents itself on very bright light pollution. I am bortle 8 and it fails consistently. Friends of mine below a 7 have gotten success but heavy heavy light pollution a few people have reported it failing more often then not.
@@MaximumAstronomy I'm at Bortle 8/9 and have no trouble initializing with a Quadband filter - even before twilight is over. It's like I'm in a much darker sky. I just leave the quadband in the Origin all the time - for all subjects. I -do- get halos, but I'm learning to not to be annoyed by them - they're just a special kind of diffraction pattern that shows I'm not stealing a Hubble shot :-)
Travis Kelce?
@@ryanbanasik8608 I get that all the time at my work!