The Truth On The Burr in Sharpening
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ม.ค. 2025
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There are my mysteries and myths about the burr. Today I want to look at turning a but on a sharp edge. Do you need to turn a burr? How do you know when you have sharpened a burr? Is a but required for good sharpening?
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I say this not to boast, this is relevant. I hold two diplomas and a certificate of higher education in furniture making and design. I've been in college learning this for about 3/4 years, and I'm not young, I'm mid-late thirties, and *no one* has explained sharpening like this to me. Thank you for taking the time to share with us
Thirties, eh...wait until you try to figure this out in your 60's!
I've been struggling with it for a couple years now. It's always discussed as being something so simple that it barely needed mentioning. It made me feel kinda stupid for having so much trouble. No youtuber has really gone into depth about it. This video gave me flashbacks to problems I've had, like "so THAT'S what I did wrong!" James's scientific-but-not-dogmatic approach is perfect for stuff like this. And he's awesome for answering a viewer question. A+ content.
Ahhaaa! Don't touch the flat until it is stroptime, just the bevel! Oh, boy, it makes so much sense. So many thanks, mr. Wright.
There are just simple things that are never explained by experts because they take them for granted that everyone should know this stuff... Thanks
Leaving the burr until it is worn away to a thin film is so obvious -but only after you explained it. This will save me loads of work.
Thank you.
Everyone else already said it but cant be overstated - even if you know how to sharpen fairly well, this is a GREAT explanation of whats going on! Absolutely essential if you want to figure out the best way to sharpen. You really broke it down well.
That was a very insightful explanation! I will now stop taking the burr of early and making it large. Thank you!
Oddly enough I've watched many knife sharpening info videos, about mechanics and geometry including burr, but somehow this felt like something clicked even though I supposedly knew this already. Left me feeling like I had gained a bit of knowledge that improves my sharpening in practice.
In one of the books written by James Krenov, he discusses tool sharpening. Paul Sellers also has a video on sharpening plane irons. What I enjoy most about your videos is how you go the extra yards in explaining what is happening at the molecular level. Using a microscope to present the changes occurring at the chisel's edge is just great. Thank you.
I was very thankful when James taught me about the “too big a burr”. Completely elevated my sharpening!
I have watched so many videos on how to sharpen but your video boils it all down so that it is clear to understand. I always wondered why I sometimes don’t get a burr but yet the blade is sharp. In your video you clearly explain why that is and like you said, I don’t sweat over it anymore. Also after watching your other video on how to free-hand sharpen, I trained myself and now that is all I do. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you for reminding us to keep it simple. I think it's all too easy to get obsessed with sharpening and go for that ultimate sharpness. But, in the end, it's all about getting it sharp enough as quickly as possible so that you can get on with what you're doing.
Great explanation. It does freak me out a bit when you wildly gesticulate while holding the edge up close to your moving hand. Sometimes when working with chisels, a mysterious cut will appear on one of my fingers. I could swear I never touched the edge, but I can’t deny the blood!
That's the fun of working with a camera it compresses the field and it makes everything look like it's closer than it is.
This makes so much sense, yet I've never given this topic a second thought!
You explained the burr and shsroen theory that removes the burr and I learned somethings and will use them
One thing, I thinks needs to be said is the sharpening technique that prevents rounding over the edge. I believe many people have this problem and don't know it and get frustrated with sharpening. I would like to see you address that in the same manner you address the burr.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills.
These kind of videos are the reason I hold you in the highest regard amongst them online woodworkers. Thank you for sharing your insight and promoting understanding and reflection. I believe you just provided me the tools to understand some recent setbacks of mine. Cheers and thanks a lot!
I appreciate the message that sharpening to excess is ultimately a diminishing return on one's time investment. Certain celebrities recommend sharpening to such extremes as they hawk their incredibly expensive super fine grit stones. I believe that to be fundamentally unscrupulous. It makes me appreciate your honesty about what actually works, and why.
Absolutely. The problem with super sharp is that by definition the edge is super fragile so after a few cuts with the tool the edge fractures and simply becomes sharp and you've wasted a lot of time. Personally I just use a very hard fine oil stone and a strop with honing compound. I get a nice burr in a few strokes which I take off with the strop, job done. Because it is so quick I can maintain the edge with frequent sharpening. I only use coarser stones or diamond plates or even a hand grinding wheel when I am restoring a blunt or chipped edge.
I'll jump on the bandwagon - this is the best explanation of the mechanics of sharpening I've ever seen. Like others, I've been woodworking for decades. I have sharpened my planes and chisels hundreds (thousands?) of times and have always been baffled why I would occasionally encounter an edge that needed to be redone. Or, after following my sharpening procedure, the edge was still too dull. I have a much better understanding of what's going on after watching your video. Thanks.
My first level college course the chipie taught the simplest quickest techniques which I hated. But in hindsight considering the audience was kids just starting in site building carpentry it was actually quite good.
Sharpen (only 1 stone availiable) then when you get the flippy floppy burr (Cheap soft chisels). Then slice the chisel across the wood block holding the stones.
This scoring across softwood would strip away the burr.
The burr is always spoken about in passing. I appreciate this video for being the first that I have seen dedicated to the burr. I do believe this to be the most thorough explanation on TH-cam, and it has saved me a lot of sharpening time in future. Thanks for the info!
This is probably the best sharpening video I've ever seen. Thanks, James!!!
I know chisels aren't the same as knives, and things get more complicated with knives and similar tools, but this does teach a lot more than what I've learned over years of learning and practicing whetstone sharpening.
This goes in much more detail than what I've developed; the "you'll just know when you did it right" technique... which can get you in trouble at times.
7:14 this is the first time I realized that I had too thick of a burr. And was scratching the strop, thanks so much for explaining it to me might be able to get a better edge now!
Very informative. I learnt a lot. I’ve only been at it for 60 years.
Cool. Very clear explanation and nice clear microscope shots. It was neat seeing that burr actually bending back and forth under your finger.
I've been sharpening for a few months now and can get consistently shaving sharp edges. But I learned quite a bit from this video simply because of the use of the microscope. I really wished you had included a microscope shot after stropping just to visualize the effects of the strop on the burr. Mainly to confirm that the burr is, in fact, being removed and the burr isn't just getting finer and finer.
Nevertheless, your microscope shots and those from "the science of sharp" website have been truly enlightening. I especially appreciate your microscope video (as opposed to pictures). Thank you.
This is great info that should help a lot of people learn how to get a sharp edge.
I don't think I've ever heard an explanation of the burr quite like the one you just shared here. It was definitely a fresh approach with in depth reasoning. Good stuff, and it has widened my perspective on sharpening. Thxs for posting this.
Thanks for this. Trying to figure this stuff out on your own is frustrating and intimidating
This is the first time I've seen sharpening explained by the state of the burr. It sounds like a good simple way to check how well you're sharpening. I'll pay more attention. Thanks
Clear no nonsense explanation
gave me an aw hawww moment. when you said "this is the only time i touch the flat in my sharpening system" that makes so much sense. thanks
If you want a really big visual of this - semi freese a block of sharp cheddar, the standard ones that are 3/.75/6 ish. Try to sharpen that on your grater like you would a plane blade. Usually you have a coarse and fine side as well to help. Youll get a cheese burr. Its actually helpful to me to see that to understand how to get rid of or deal w the burr
This is one of the best, most digestible sharpening videos ive seen.
Great explanation. I would also add that applying too much pressure on the strop can bend or round off the microscopic edge you've just worked so hard for.
I like your practical approach: enough is enough - don't go crazy. There is enough craziness in the world😊.
Thank you!
Thanks for making sense of the burr, and how its size matters. I have a better understanding of why my sharp is inconsistent.
I still use a honing guide but aim to spend a day free hand sharpening on my inferior chisels to see if it’s something I can do.Yourself,Paul Sellers and Rob Cosman can’t be wrong.I thank you for your educational efforts in spreading the gospel of hand tool woodworking.
Freehand sharpening is a skill that takes time to learn, but once you put in the effort it is amazing how east sharpening becomes.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Time to master perhaps but easy to start. I started freehand sharpening right away when I got my tools some year ago. Old and used but good tools, some cheap metaldiamondstone thingys and ta-daa, soon I got sharp chisels, planes and whatnot. You, Paul Sellers, Rob Cosman, Rex Krueger and some other hand tool channels have been good teachers and source of inspiration for many things.
With your title and the heat of summer I was expecting a dry ice technic. Dad joke aside, Great explanation and logic of sharpening
Big takeaway for me is that the shiny strip is the bur. I’ve been thinking that I don’t have the new edge right out to the tip. Going to save me a lot of time and steel.
Best video on sharpening I have ever seen! Thank you James. You’ve elevated my understanding on what is happening on a molecular level. This will change my technique for sure.
Understanding steel through how it reacts and creates a burr was super helpful and will tell me more about the steel im personally using, so thanks!!
You answered a question that has been bugging me for years. Some TH-cam sharpening gurus remove the burr at esch step, and some at the end. No one ever explained why; i suspect they were just repeating what they were taught. I was taught to remove it at each step, and by golly Imdid. Your explanation makes sense to me, and I am going to change my evil ways and see if it makes a difference.
I understand now what's happening on microscopic, I can't say I wasn't being to hard on myself to learn sharpening but what's learned is learned I can take it easy now.
I mean it's a constant reminder to be happy have have fun as it's what's most important but I always believe I must to things proper.
I didn't give up and I learned but the cost is...I have a bunch of people worry about me 😅.
Thank you! I learned a lot here.
Thank you. I can't wait for the spreadsheet.
Excellent, I need to stop overthinking my process.
This is a great video. Talking about the burr and how to get rid of it by sharpening the point really helps to explain what we are trying to do and what to feel and look for. One of your best.
i really appreciate your attention to detail. the micro shots really help. + love what you said at end. May the Burr be with you :-)
Thanks for the clarification. It came at just the right time as in the process of sharpening my new chisels
Great explanation. This is similar to Brian Boggs philosophy on sharpening, though his approach is to avoid creating a bur at all.
Great video as always, I knew the burr was important most sharpening videos talk about it but few are going to this level of detail and really explain what is a good burr and how it leads to a better edge. Once again thanks for sharing your knowledge 😉
Excellent detailed explanation. The difference when you ran your finger along the edge under microscope was very beneficial!
Over the top video. This is the first-time I have found a simple explanation of two planes that come together. Thanks.
EXCELLENT vid, James! Has a lot of helpful info. In fact, it strikes me that this could become a classic how-to-sharpen video. Thank you very much!
Very clear precise description
I would love to see you meeting Rob cosman and doing the sharpening test with him.
I was just cutting in some bowties into some soft wood and going through this process before every new one. I like the if it slices softer wood I must've done something right for once attitude and try to repeat that.
This video was so much a learning experience for me. Learned something new today. TY.
Well done, JW.
The levels of steel are new to me. I guess I never really paid that close of attention to it.
Sharpened my chisels last year and I do recall the burr being quite large. The set I own is a stanley set. Very inexpensive but for now they work.
When I was a beginner I would often remove the burr between each grit because I wasn’t confident that I kept my angle the same and wanted to be sure I was reaching the tip at each level. I would use my fine stone or the strop each time tho, never used a coarse stone on a polished back
Excellent description. I am going to try this approach
One consideration that affects how I deal with the burr and the chisel back is my own set up which is a plywood box I made to suspend a water stone in. These days I use diamond plates, but the same box. Because it is elevated I have good access to both faces of the chisel. So, I generally do the bevel until I feel the burr - or wire edge . Then I flip it, lay about an inch of the back on the stone, and with two or three strokes remove the burr. Then I swap out the stone for the next, and repeat. I strop it with the strop (home made) mounted on the same box. Essentially the materials and end results are identical. The set up makes the difference. I might spend perhaps 15 seconds longer per stone, and stropping would be a wash. It has always been easier to do both faces. I realized watching this that if I used a set up like yours (or Paul Sellers or Stumpy Nubs), I would be doing it exactly the way you show. I think I got the idea for my box reading something by Ian Kirby.
Wow. That was a really good explanation! Very informative. Thanks!
Thank James. Very helpful. As always !
Thank you. That explains some things I was seeing but didn't understand yet. Keep the great videos coming.
Thanks for this! Helps explain what I was finding with inconsistent sharpness... I was making the burr too big on the course stone. This should really help me get a better edge.
Excellent research and presentation.
Best explanation I've seen on this topic.
Another sharp video 🎉
This is extremely helpful! Thank you!
Always thought of the bur as a little thing, lol. Never thought that a bigger bur takes more of the edge with it when it is removed! Thanks.
Oops. Forgot these, rr.
Thanks! It was way more interesting than I expected
Very informative and helpful video. Thank you!
Excellent tutorial on practical sharpening.
Yep. This is IT🥂
Thanks, these are good details to know. I'm getting there with sharpening, but am not great yet. This will likely help.
Well done mate and thanks for the help !
I really found this helpful. Thank you
My question is; when does this process stop being productive and become obsessive? I understand wanting clean cuts, but quite a bit of chisel work is across the grain of the wood, does this require having razor+ sharpness? I would think that if you demanded razor+ sharpness, you would be spending most of your time making the chisel sharp than doing the work.
Very informative. You have explained this very well.
I think it’s about compartmentalizing your efforts. You sharpen to a razor edge because you already got out your stones and you want to make the most of that setup time. Then you get a bit more use out of it until it’s dull enough to justify another sharpening.
Wau. I learned a lot with this. I thank You!
Thank you for posting this video. One question I have is that I am told that burr is your indication to move to the next finer grit. So, I keep on grinding till I see a burr and then I remove the burr and move to the next grit. Also, on coarse diamond at 300 grit, I work till I have a huge burr and then work the chisel on the other side to remove burr. The net result is my edge never really that sharp.
Watching your video, my understanding now is that I should not worry about removing the burr whenever I move to the next finer grit. Instead, I should verify that my burr is getting smaller with every next finer grit and then take whatever burr left at the last grit I am using.
Also, do you teach virtual online class on how to sharpen tools like chisels and hand planes? I would be very much interested in taking such class.
Look forward to hearing from you.
Thank you
Thanks James!
You rock man, advice as usual :)
Huh the knife sharpener I have specifically says to do both sides of the knife with the same grit before moving on but I do really like your explanation on doing it one side at a time. Will try that next time I sharpen my marking knife.
With a knife you need to do both sides as it has two bevels. You need to keep the cutting edge in the middle of the blade. But with a chisel there is only one bevel.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo ohhhhhh I see
Great vid James, made me think I may have been over sharpening, will give this a try. Thanks.
I got a new marking knife, and it had a HUGE burr on it. I thought I could take it off with the strop. Nope, I sliced the strop instead. Lesson learned!
thanks
Thanks James, Great Video! 👌 This will help my sharpening technique a lot. I had a problem with some of my plane blades last week as I was breaking the bur off on every grit.
Your technique really gives you an edge.
|I loved the microscope shots, it's fun to see the movement I've been able to feel before, but couldn't ever see.
I'm pretty experienced making sharp edges on all my tools, and still found this fascinating and helpful. Thank you for explaining this so well.
Well said!
One way I was told how to check that you have produced a burr and/or whether the burr is still there even when too fine to see - wet the back of the chisel and if excess water/fluid is drawn to the tip ( which will be easily visible ) then the burr is still there.
Good job
Great video. Thanks!
Great explanation. I learned allot.
If you have a really small burr that comes off. You can feel it. It's something akin to a loss of friction.
Thanks 👍
Hi from South Africa
Thanks for sharing that!
Really excellent tips, James! Thanks a bunch! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊