Chisel restoration - How to flatten (lap the back) & prepare a 25° bevel - Pt1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2022
- This video is for you if you only have a normal set-up of stones. I don't really care for the extra course grit paper stuck onto a piece of glass. It can get messy. I've seen people ruin the start of lapping a Chisel because they weren't experienced and caused more damage.
It's very easy for an inexperienced person to slip up and make the blade worse.
If you are not a patient person then this one is not for you...But also if you clicked on the link then you probably do need to watch.. But have more patience.
All I can say is watch and grow.
Good luck with your chisels & Irons.
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Jamie - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Awesome video! You really show how work intensive ir is to correct and improve a blade. The good thing is that it’s possible!
Yes, yes yes. Thank you. It is possible. But it's got to be worth it. This steel is amazing and the curve had to go. Thank you for your comment. I'll be doing the others too. Each of these chisels is worth £100 when done. So they need to be as perfect as I can get them. I just wished I took the video at the start when it was incredibly curved. Pt 2 coming up soon. 👍 Jamie
Brilliant. In depth and accessible description and demonstration as usual! Reminds me of the bloke who taught me to sharpen.🤣
I think I'm better than the guy who taught you 🙊
@@twcmaker yes youa are 🤣🤣🤣
I knew it 😂😂😂
Great video on quality sharpening. Loving the results.
Thank you Dave. Part 2 out very soon.
Lovely searching for a video to guide in this process and coming someone from my home county, cheers!
Brilliant 👍 👍 👍 thanks for finding me. More sharpening coming over the next few weeks
Hi. I've just released a new video on sharpening a Chisel. It's worth watching because it's a back to basics with great results. Here it is
th-cam.com/video/qN9W-03wMm8/w-d-xo.html
If you like it, then please comment as it helps me grow this channel.
Thank you
Jamie
Great video mate. The thought of using another dished oil stone gives me a cold sweat. Those poor blades!
Thank you James. You know the first part of the video was a response to our conversation about your experience elsewhere. And the timing with that chisel was spot on.
Hello Jamie, about a year ago I bought. an Atoma 140 grit diamond stone for situations just like this video. It is a total game changer, cuts fast and removes defects in half the time. Surprisingly it's not so coarse that it takes forever to remove the scratches. Nothing like it for a damaged edge. Best wishes.
Hi Eugene. I'll look into that thank you. I wanted, (and I'm not sure it came across because I don't script these videos) I want people to learn to do it the slow way. If they mess it up accidentally it won't do much damage and allow them to get it back on track. The video was made while I'd got people in and out of my workshop. So that I could stop and chat, and then carry on. I will look into coarse stones. I just worry that people can make mistakes quicker. Thank you for you comment 👍 Jamie
If you look at Japanese chisels and the angle of the handles they don`t seem to bother to align the handle and blade. Have a close look for yourself .So you might as well use the thin ruler trick on chisels as well as plane blades .
Seriously.. You are so wrong.
The ruler trick is not suitable for chisels. Maybe Japanese chisels but not Western chisels.
You people... The Ruler Trick is for plane irons. NOT for CHISELS
Japanese chisels have a hollow back and a soft steel lamination for this purpose. The hollow back is to make polishing fast. The soft steel is for energy transfer and pushing the edge forward to reduce lapping.
Fair play, you must have spent at least 12 hours hours saving that chisel from a life of being perfectly usable to being wonderfully usable. And very shiny!
Yes, it is mostly sharpening for the sake of sharpening, but every time you use it you will know what you went through to get it there...
You are right. And I'm glad you see it that way too. But also there's the feeling of the back of the chisel sliding across a surface very very easily. Safe in the knowledge that there is nothing stopping as near as perfect joint being created by that smooth surface. And it's added about £500 to the set of chisels.
I think it was 14 across the 5 chisels 🙈. Mostly, what I call 'stolen time'. When someone's chatting to you, or when my students don't need me, or while I'm waiting for the kettle to boil. Those periods of 'stolen time' 👍
Hi. I've just released a new video on sharpening a Chisel. It's worth watching because it's a back to basics with great results. Here it is
th-cam.com/video/qN9W-03wMm8/w-d-xo.html
If you like it, then please comment as it helps me grow this channel.
Thank you
Jamie
5:35 I've read time and time again - that is how you destroy a diamond stone!
I've never heard that one. Well, not never, but it's bound to take the edge off some of the particles of diamond. I don't think it's too bad on the stones. The steel on the chisel isn't as hard as the Diamond.
@@twcmakerThat makes sense I agree. People claim that diamonds can be ripped cleanly off the electroplating. I don't know if it's a myth but I hope so. Otherwise diamond stones seem too fragile.
I've had about 5 or 6 diamond stones over the last 11 years. I've thrown one away in that time. It was from Aldi and I wore it out on heavy garden tools. It was £7. After I found it wasn't very flat then it got used for any old job. I got more than my moneys worth from it. Newer, and slightly more money ones are better in my opinion. I don't spend over £30. The difference over that amount is slight and because I use other stones (varying the stone and the orientation) it doesn't really matter that much.
@@Dennis-ud2nh this might interest you. I've just released a new video on sharpening a Chisel. It's worth watching because it's a back to basics with great results. Here it is
th-cam.com/video/qN9W-03wMm8/w-d-xo.html
If you like it, then please comment as it helps me grow this channel.
Thank you
Jamie
At about 5.00 you get to the important stage of fighting the Twist in a blade. If you rub the whole blade (or as much as possible ) on the diamond plate you will identify where the high spots are that make the blade wobble and stop the edge from being straight . Using a Dremel etching bit you can work those high spots down in between the diamond plate . I slightly copy the Japanese chisel way and etch the inside surfaces to leave the side edges shiny . The etching depth is very slight but gets the twist out very quickly . Sometimes the twist comes from the back end of the blade --miles away from the cutting edge .But a flat diamond plate will still roll the blade and still mess up the clean cutting edge .So try the etching trick to identify the problem . Find the high spots . Some top class old Sheffield blades have the distortion and never get used properly in their whole life . They could be Ward or Marples or Sorby . Pin down where that twist comes in .
Great advice. Thank you.
Hi Jamie, I tried a similar approach using a Dremel with a small grinding wheel on an old Marples firmer chisel with a definite belly. Does not take long to get a hollow in the middle and this allows the diamond stones to get to the edges and certainly speeded up the process of getting it ready for use.
@@keirgallacher4374 The dremel trick is good for very thick old Sheffield blades.There is so much steel to play with and it`s a learning process. Recently I made sure my hand cranked sandstone water sharpener was nice and straight . I work the blade to and fro as it lays on the top surface.Just stay off the last 1/4 inch.Then the diamond plate can work right near the edge ,guided by the back end of the blade.
What grit is the diamond stone?
I generally start on 300 grit. If I'm flattening the backs I'll then go 400grit, 1000 grit and then through the water stones.
Why wouldn't you take that corner off of the bevel side until it is gone, instead of ruining that perfectly mirrored back? It would be so much easier.
Good question, that I think I said why in the video. By removing bevel back to the corner, I would be using up years worth of use.
I guess if that chisel was brand new, or one that someone special gave you, or it was your only chisel, and it cost $1,000, and you couldn't replace it, removing that tiny amount from the tip might matter. Or you could make up a silly excuse about shortening the tools lifespan by years of use, remove so much more metal from the perfect bottom, which wouldn't do its lifespan any good either, and make a youtube video about doing it the hard way.
Great response 👍 I'll guess you skipped through the video without listening. Anyhow, you've a lot to learn still.
Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it's your opinion based on what you know.
Have a nice day. 🙏
Hey Brandy. Seeing as you enjoy comments. Here's my latest video. What do you think? th-cam.com/video/BrUE1Hs82iQ/w-d-xo.html
How about just buying a new chisel? Even my bottom-of-the-narex-line chisels flattened up in less than 15 minutes on an 800 grit low-tech king stone. Sure, their balance leaves a bit to be desired in the thinner sizes, but you can fix that by paring some off the handle of their 6 mm. And in much, much less time than the almost 5 hours that this gentleman says he put into re-flattening this chisel. Another option would be to hollow out the back a bit with either really low grit loose abrasive (60 grit anyone?) or the rim (NOT the face) of the wheel on a bench grinder.
Thank you for your comment. These chisels are rare and therefore very collectable. Whilst some might like and agree with your comment. And maybe I would under other circumstances. But not this time. There's more about the chisels here
th-cam.com/video/W3oPd4J5lI4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=YfiqIgDWsN3FUsTU